Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
Top10
ill@$. ~
[Q)~~
Storage Projects
...
.....
03
",,,
08791
farnilyhandyman
'l-%nt to get your deck makeover accomplished in one day? Turn to the Thampsons" ~ter Seaf® Advanced Wood Protector line, which can be applied to damp wood. (Most coatings must be applied to dry wood.)
[I
Deck-Db!
A beautiful deck is the exclamation point to your backyard, and luckily, a deck makeover is an easy and affordable home improvement project. In fact, the cost to clean and treat an average-size deck is under $1OO-and the results? Priceless! OFF TO A CLEAN START Cleaning your deck is the critical first step to remove years of soils, worn coatings and grayed wood cells. Choose a deck cleaner based on your deck's condition. A dirty deck with no coating can be treated with a Deck Wash; decks with some remaining coatings will need a stronger cleaner, and a Deck Stripper is needed to remove solid stains. (Redwood and cedar also require special cleaners to optimize their naturally beautiful colors.) Application of the deck cleaner is relatively straightforward. Some cleaners come in concentrated form and are mixed with water while others are premixed and just need to be poured into a container. Just be sure to follow the label directions. Most products, except Deck Strippers, can be put in a pumpup garden sprayer. After waiting a short time (usually around 5-15 minutes), scrub lightly with a synthetic broom, then rinse the surface. DON'T FORGET YOUR COAT(ING) Act Two of your deck's revival involves decisions based on questions of both beauty and protection. If you want to see as much of the natural wood as possible, apply a clear coating like Thompson's" Water Seal" Waterproofer Plus Clear Wood Protector or Thompsons" Water Seal® Advanced Clear Wood Protector. These products are also available in tinted formulas that add natural wood tones while helping Stop water damage. Thornpsons" Water Seal" Deck & House Stains give you even more color options-c-over 100 shades are available ranging from natural wood colors to greens, blues, yellows, and more. These stains are available in semi-transparent formulas, which allow some of the wood grain to show through, and solid formulas, which completely cover the wood grain, but allow some of the wood texture to come through. While many waterproofing coatings can be applied with a sprayer, you should always go back over the surface with a brush or paine pad to work the product into the wood. HELP ON DECK Don't tackle your deck makeover aIone! Get help and great ideas at www. thompsonswaterseal.com or www. faccbook.com/thompsonswaterseal.
, A,ND YOURS.
,~.
I •
I',
Gives you
ouses are complicated, and as DIYers we're faced with a bewildering array of choices when it comes to repairs and remodeling. What should we fix first and what should we choose for materials, designs, techniques, finishes and tools? What projects will increase our home's value? Which can I do on a budget? Do I use a circular saw or a jigsaw? Laminated hardwood or carpet? Craftsman or Ryobi? Walk down the caulk aisle at your local home center and you'll see so many choices that your eyes will glaze over. That's why we created this Best in DIY publicationto give you projects that we've tested and recommend, tips that we've found to be particularly useful, and
I the
techniques that offer special benefits for the DIYer. We hope they help you in your projects. Happy hammering! The Family Handyman Editors
In
Storage Projects
10
11 13 14 Kitchen cabinet rollouts Selecting Materials:Baltic birch for cabinets Measuring Tip: Avoid mistakes with a story stick Selecting Hardware: Use the right slides Garage entry storage center Building Tips: Cut cost and assembly time Installation Tip: Use cleats Finishing Tip: Use a roller on large, flatsurfaces Overhead storage
26 27
27 30 32
Sturdy multipurpose
storage shelves
17
18 20 21
Simple utility cabinets Cutting Tip: Let someone else do it! Selecting Hardware: Use partial wrap-around hinges Finishing Tip: Use iron-on edge banding Grand bookcase Assembly Tip: Use pocket screws Mitering Tips: E3emore efficient Safety Tip: Install chain latches
33
35 38 42
22
Money-Saving Fixes
44
45 How to stop a running toilet Stay-Clean Tip: Wear gloves Repair damaged walls Work Tidy Tips: Paper bag dust catcher, neat sanding sponge, moist air Spray-texture a damaged Safety Tip: Asbestos ceiling
55
55 56 58
46
47
Finding & fixing roof leaks Home Care Tip: Fix leaks now Safety Tips: Roof brackets, planks and harness Repair Tip: Don't count on caulk Best kitchen appliance fixes Repair Tip: Don't wreck the floor when you pull out the fridge 5 cash-saving auto fixes
59
63
52
53
66
---
TABLE
OF CONTENTS
82 86
80
Backyard Projects
90
91 94 One-day island deck Planning Tip: Permits and safety Planning Tip: Build a privacy screen Simple garden archway Tool Tip: Hacksaw blade installation Installation Tip: Solution for hard soil Classic cobblestone path Planning Tip: Add edging for garden beds Planning Tip: Consider mixed materials Repair Tip: Use a paver puller
106
109 114 116 117
Soothing backyard fountain Planning Tip: Install an outdoor outlet Installation Tip: Soften soil with water
95
96 98
99
100 103 104
Weekend ,Projects
120
123 125 Cabinet face lift Selecting Materials: Wine glass molding Storage Tips: Spice storage, measuring cup hang-up, plastic bag dispenser, thyme saver Lighting Tip: Install an overhead light
132
134
Install a new sink & faucet Installation Tip: Save your back Revive a hardwood floor Repair Tip: Fix a squeaky floor Cleanup Tip: Use an abrasive pad
135
138 141
144
TABLE OF CONTENTS 7
In
Editorial and Production Team
Steven Charbonneau, Roxie Filipkowski, Vern Johnson, Rick Muscoplat, Becky Pfluger, Mary Sthwender, Marcia Roepke
Photog,raphy andlUustratlons
Ron Chamberlain, Tom Fenenga, Bruce Kieffer, Mike Krivit, Don Mannes, Ramon Moreno, Shawn Nielsen, Doug Oudekerk, Frank Rohrbach III, Eugene Thompson, Bill Zuehlke Text, photography and illustrations for Best in DIY are based on articles previously published in The Family Handyman magazine (2915 Commers Dr., Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121, familyhandyman.com). For information on advertising in The Family Handyman magazine, call (212) 850-7226. by The Reader's Digest Association, Inc. ©2011 The Reader's Digest Association, Inc. All rights reserved. This volume may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the Publisher. Reader's Digest and the Pegasus logo are registered trademarks of The Reader's Digest Association, Inc. The Family Handyman is a registered trademark of RD Publications, Inc.
Published by Home Service Publications, Inc. A subsidiary of The Reader's Digest Association,
Inc.
THE READER'SDIGEST
President President,
I
ASSOCIATION, INC.
U.S. Affinities
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA A NOTE TO OUR READERS: All do-it-yourself activities involve a degree of risk. Skills, materials, tools and site conditions vary widely. Although the editors have made every effort to ensure accuracy, the reader remains responsible for the selection and use of tools, materials and methods. Always obey local codes and laws, follow manufacturer instructions and observe safety precautions.
14
for cabinets Measuring Tip: Avoid mistakes with a story stick Selecting Hardware: Use the right slides Garage entry storage center Building Tips: Cut cost and assembly time Installation Tip: Use cleats Finishing Tip: Use a roller on large, flat surfaces
17
18 20 21
22 Overhead storage
26
Sturdy multipurpose storage shelves
33 Grand bookcase
35 38 42
Assembly Tip: Use pocket screws Mitering Tips: Be more efficient Safety Tip: Install chain latches
r:Iase cabinets have the least convenierit 1.:1 in the entire kitchen. Rollouts solve
storagespace that problem. They make organizing and accessing cabinet contents back-friendly and frustration free. This article shows how to retrofit nearly any base cabinet with rollouts that'll work as well as or better than any factory-built units. The project will go faster with a table saw and a miter saw to cut out all the pieces. A circular saw and cutting guide will work too; it'll just take a little longer. Building a pair of rollouts takes about half a day, and costs about $20 per shelf.
10
BEST STORAGE PROJECTS
to recognize by comparing it with other hardwood plywood in the racks, Baltic birch will have more and thinner laminations in the plywood core, The sides of the rollout drawers can be made from any lx4 solid wood that matches the cabinets, and then finished to match (use plywood for the bases). But if 3/4-in. material is used for the sides, subtract 3 in. from the opening to size the rollout (not 2-1/2 in., as described in Photo 2). (See "Building rollouts in cabinets with center dividers," p. 12, for an example.) The drawer carriers (Figure A) are made from pine lx4s for the sides (Photo 7) and 1/4-in. MDF (medium density fiberboard) for the carrier bottom (Photo 9). The MDF keeps the drawer base spaced properly when being shimmed and attached to the cabinet sides. It can be removed and reused for other carriers after installation. If MDF isn't available, substitute any other 1/4-in. hardboard or plywood. Side-mounted slides are the best choice among drawer slide options. Their ball-bearing mechanisms and precise fit
Open the
narrowest opening
part (usually
, Fi ure A
Standard rollout
LENGTH: OPENING MINUS WIDTH: 3·1/2'" 2·1/2'" SIDE 3-1/2'" x 22'"
assembly plywood
Best in DIY
Selecting Materials
Baltic birch for cabinets
Cabinetmakers love Baltic birch plywood for rollouts because the edges look great. Unlike standard hardwood plywood, Baltic birch never has voids in the inner core. It may not be labeled "Baltic birch" at home centers, but you'll be able to identify it by comparing It with other hardwood plywood in the racks. It'll have more and thinner laminations in the plywood core. The bigof using Baltic birch are gest disadvantages
Figure B
Wastebasket rollout
Carrier assembly
1/4'" MDF
that it costs more than standard hardwood plywood and can be harder to find. A 4 x 8-ft. sheet will run you $65 compared with $50 for standard hardwood plywood. If your home center doesn't carry it, try a traditionallumberyard.
Drawer assembly
DRAWER SLIDE
tic
irs
ed
nleSTANDARD PLYWOOD
ld
ts,
irs
lot
sy
INSTALL KITCHEN CABINET ROLLOUTS 11
I'
,
Rip 1/2-in. plywood down to 3-1/2 in. wide and cut two 22-in. lengths (drawer sides) and two more to the measured width minus 2-1/2 in. (drawer front and back; Figure A).
Many two-door cabinets have a center divider (photo above), which calls for a slightly different strategy. The rollouts willneed to be narrower versions on each side of the divider. (Check to be sure they won't be so narrow that they're impractical.) The key is to install a 3/4-in. plywood, particleboard or MDFpanel between the center divider and the cabinet back to support the carriers. Cut the panel to fit loosely between the divider and the cabinet back and high enough to support the top rollout position. Center the panel on the back side and middle of the divider and screw it into place with l-in. angle brackets (they're completely out of sight). Use a carpenter's square to position the panel perfectly centered and vertical on the cabinet back and anchor it there. again using angle brackets. Measure, build and install the rollouts as shown in this article.
surface to use as an assembly jig. Use a carpenter's square to ensure squareness. Leave a 2-in. gap at the corner.
make for smooth-operating drawers that hold gO lbs. or more. This project uses 22-in. full-extension KV brand side-mount drawer slides that have a gO-lb. weight rating. That means they'll be sturdy enough even for a drawer full of canned goods. Full-extension slides allow the rollout to extend completely past the cabinet front for easy access to all the contents. Expect to pay about $6 to $15 per set of slides at any home center or well-stocked hardware store.
Spread woodworking glue on the ends and clamp a drawer side and front in place, then pin the corner together with three I-II4-in. brads. Repeat for the other three corners.
Cut a II2-in. plywood bottom to size. Apply a thin bead of glue to the bottom edges, and nail one edge of the plywood flush with a side, spacing nails every 4 in. Then push the frame against the jig to square it and nail the other three edges.
Separate the drawer slides and space the drawer part 1/4 in. up from the bottom. Hold it flush to the front and screw it to the rollout side.
Mount the carrier part of the drawer slide flush with the bottom and front of the carrier sides.
a
f
Measuring Tip
Best in DIY
(like the width of the So try this: Forget the
visual aid that helps you prevent mistakes and having to walk between your to double-check
s
INSTALL KITCHEN CABINET ROLLOUTS
13
Best in DIY
necessary when building the rollouts and their carriers (see Figure A). Then measure the cabinet width. The drawer has to clear the narrowest part of the opening (Photo 1). When taking this measurement, include hinges that protrude into the opening, the edge of the door attached to the hinges, and even the doors that won't open completely because they hit nearby appliances or other cabinets. Plan on making the drawer front and rear parts 2-1/2 in. shorter than the opening (Figure A). This project shows drawers with 3-1/2-in.-high sides, but they can be customized. Plan on higher sides for lightweight plastic storage containers or other tall or tippy items, and lower sides for stable, heavier items like small appliances.
Selecting Hardware
Use the right slides
There are a dozen kinds of drawer slides out there, out if you want to keep shopping and installation simple, stick to these two types: Roller slides glide on plastic wheels. They're inexpensive, a cinch to Install (it takes about two minutes) and nearly impossible to screw up. You'll find them at home centers under various names including side mount, under mount and bottom mount. Most are rated to carry 35 to 100 lbs. For heavy-duty rollouts holding items such as canned goods, use slides rated for at least 100 lbs. The big disadvantage: length-the Most roller slides of their extend only three-quarters In the cabinet. Ball-bearing slides glide on tiny bearings. The big advantage of these slides is that they extend fully, giving you complete access to everything In the drawer. They're about three times the cost of roller slides, and they're usually rated to carry 75 to 100 lbs., but you can get 200-lb. versions for about $40 a pair. Home centers carry ball-bearing slides, but The you'll find a wider variety at woodworkershardware.com. big disadvantage: They're fussy to install. If your drawer is a hair too big or small, these slides won't glide.
I'
:2 "iii c
QI
n:p
Make drawer boxes about 1/32 in. smaller than you nejd. It's easy to shim behind a slide with layers of masking tape fa make' up for a toosmall drawer. It's a lot harder to deal with a drawer that's too
·iii
..!.
II..
~ QI
t: QI
"5
._]
••
wide,
Ball-bearing slides cost more----O and are harder to install, but they can extend fully.
.~"
14
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
Slide the drawer and carrier sides together and measure the carrier width. Cut 114-in. M DF to that width and 1 in. less than the carrier depth (usually 21 in.).
Rest the carrier assembly on 3/4-in.-thick spacers, pull the car.rier sides slightly away from the drawer, then nail on the carrier bottom (no glue).
Remove the drawer, tip the carrier into the cabinet and push the carrier against one side. Measure the gap and rip six 3-1/2-in.long spacers to half of the thickness.
Nail the spacers to the center and each end of the carrier sides (not into the cabinet; see inset photo)' Then predrill and screw the carrier sides to the cabinet in the center of each shim. Slide the drawer back into place.
cabinet and measure the gap on the other (Photo 10). Rip spacers to half that measurement and cut six of them to 3-1/2 in. long. Slip the spacers between both sides of the carrier to check the fit. They should slide in snugly but not tightly. Recut new spacers if needed. In out-of-square cabinets, custom-cut spacers may be needed for each of the three pairs of spacers, so check each of the three spacer positions. It's easiest to tack the spacers to the rollouts to hold them in place before pre drilling liS-in. holes and running the screws through the rollout frames and spacers and into the cabinet sides (Photo 11). Slip the rollout into its carrier and check for smooth operation. By following this process, it should work perfectly. Hit binds, it's probably because the spacers are too wide or narrow. Pull out the carrier, remove the spacers and start the spacer process all over again.
The best way to level and fasten the upper rollout is to support it on temporary plywood spacers (Photo 12). The pieces of plywood shown are 7 in. high, but the exact height can vary. To store tall boxes of cereal on the bottom rollout and shorter items on the top, space the top rollout higher. Build and install three or more rollouts in one cabinet for mega storage of short items like cans, cutlery or beverages. (Those now-obsolete shelves being replaced with rollouts are good stock to use for the spacers.) Again, pin the spacers in place with a brad or two to hold them while predrilling and screwing the carriers to the cabinet sides. Be sure to select screw lengths that won't penetrate exposed cabinet sides! In most cases, 1-5/S-in. screws are the best choice. Strive for 1/2-in. penetration into the cabinet sides. Countersink the heads as far as necessary to get the proper penetration.
INSTALL
KITCHEN
CABINET
ROLLOUTS
15
0-
'~
Cut plywood spacers to temporarily support the upper rollout and set them onto the carrier below. Rest the second carrier on the spacers and install it as showrr in Photo 11.
1m
Build an uPSide~d~wnversion of the carrier and rollouts for the wastebasket drawer (Figure B). Center and trace around the rim of the wastebasketts). Use a compass to mark the onening 1/2 in. smaller.
mJ·
Drill 112-in. starting holes and cut the openings with a jigsaw.
Mount the wastebasket carrier and drawer as shown in Photos 10 and 11.
Some wastebasket rollouts require knocking the MDF free from the carriers after mounting so the wastebasket lips will clear. That's OK; it won't affect operation. It may not always work to center rollout assemblies in all openings with equal spacers on each side. That's especially true with narrow single cabinets that only have one pair of hinges. Cheat the wastebasket assembly away from the hinge side an additional 1/2 in. or so, if needed. Again, it's best to test things before permanent mounting. But if a mistake is made, unscrew the assembly, adjust the shims and remount everything.
16
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
saw are handy for ripping and crosscutting the plywood, and a brad nailer helps tack the cabinets and drawers together before you drive the screws. Each cabinet requires one sheet of plywood or less and costs about $50, including the hardware and finish. Shown is birch plywood ($40 per sheet). You could use oak plywood ($48) or even MDF ($30). For the pantry cabinet, you'll need 1/4-in. plywood for the drawer bottoms. All the materials are available at home centers except the drawer slides for the pantry cabinet.
Y .
~STUD
LOCATIONS
straight,
accurate
cuts with
a circular
II
Clamp pilot
the frame
parts
together,
including
Drill
Best in DIY
Building Tips Cut cost and assembly time
These cabinets were designed with economy and speed in mind. Here are three tricks to cut costs and assembly time: • Size all parts to use the plywood efficiently. The sides, for example, are just under 12 in. wide (11-7/8 in.), so you'll get four from a 4 x 8-ft. sheet. • Eliminate the ca'binet backs, saving time and materials. Just be sure to handle the cabinets gently=-they're flimsy until they're screwed to the wall. • Apply the finish before assembly. After you cut the parts to size, sand everything with 120-grit sandpaper and apply a coat of Minwax Wipe-On Poly ($9 per pint). a bit
GARAGE
ENTRY
STORAGE
CENTER
19
3/4"
• Best In DIY
Use cleats
Installation Tip
Install a 2x2 cleat on the wall for the cabinets to sit on. You'll need 24 in. of cleat for each cabinet. Keep the cleat at least 8 in. above the floor so you can sweep under the cabinets. Snap a level chalk line on the wall for the cleat (measure down from the ceiling if your floor slopes!). Attach the cleat at the chalk line by driving a 3-in. drywall screw into each stud.
Set the cabinets on the cleats. Place a level alongside the cabinet to make sure it's standing plumb and square. Then drill pilot holes through the screw strips and attach the cabinets to the wall with 3-in. drywall screws (Photo 3). Screw adjoining cablnets together by driving 1-l/4-in. drywall screws through the side near the top and the bottom.
20
BEST STORAGE
PROJECTS
Best in DIY
Finishing Tip
3/4"
TOP DRAWER: S" MIDDLE DRAWER: 9-3/4" BOTTOM TWO DRAWERS: 11·7/S"
DRAWER FACE
ENTRY
STORAGE
CENTER
21
Overhead storage
Suspended
extension l.adder
It's always most convenient to hang an extension ladder on brackets on a wall. But unfortunately that wipes out all other storage potential for that wall. To save that valuable wall space, here's a pair of 2x4 suspended brackets so a ladder can be stored flat along the ceiling. Simply slide one end of the ladder into one bracket, then lift and slide the other end into the other bracket. Most people will need to stand on something solid to reach the second bracket. The 2x4 bracket sides are 16 in. long with 5-in. corner braces lag-screwed into the top for attachment to the ceiling truss (Figure A). The bracket base is a 1/2-in. x 24-in. threaded steel rod ($2.75) that extends through 5/8-in. drilled holes on the bracket sides. It's held in place with flatllock washCAUTION ers and a nut on each side of For extra security, wrap a Bungee cord around the both 2x4 uprights. A 3/4-in. ladder and one bracket. x 18-in.-Iong piece of PVC conduit pipe surrounds the rod for smooth rolling action when you slide the ladder in and out.
Build two identical brackets, then screw them both to ceiling trusses with 1/4 x 2-in. lag screws. Space the brackets so the ladder will extend at least 1 ft. beyond the end of each one.
Figure A
Ladder support detail
~5"CORNER BRACE
{
NUT ~~~''''''''''
.
~WASHER LOCK WASHER STORAGE
00""'-'"
FLAT
22
BEST
PROJECTS
SIDE SUPPORT
MIDDLE SUPPORT
OVERHEAD
STORAGE
23
Over-garage-door shelving
Tuck medium and lightweight stuff onto shelves suspended from the ceiling. The shelves are designed to fit into that unused space above the garage doors (you need 16 in. of clearance to fit a shelf and standard 12-1/2-in.-high plastic bins). However, you can adjust the shelf height and put them anywhere. The only limitation is weight. This 4 x 6-£t. shelf is designed to hold about 160 lbs., a load that typical ceiling framing can safely support. It's best to save the shelf for "deep storage," using labeled bins with lids, because you'll need a stepladder to reach the contents of the bins. First, find which way the trusses run, then plan to hang one shelf support from three adjacent trusses (Photo 2). The trusses shown here are 24 in. apart; if yours are spaced at 16 in., skip one intermediate truss. These shelves were built to hold plastic bins, but if you
24
BEST STORAGE PROJECTS
put loose stuff up there, add 1x4 sides to keep things from falling off. Assemble the 2x4s as shown (Figure A), using 5-in. corner braces (t-in, x 5-in. Stanley corner brace, $2.89 at amazon. com, or look for them at home centers) and 1/4-in. x I-in, hex head lag screws (drill pilot holes first). Now attach the corner braces on both ends of a shelf support to the center of a truss by drilling pilot holes and using 1/4-in. x 2-in. hex head lag screws (Photo 2). The only challenge is finding the center of trusses through a drywall ceiling (if your ceiling is finished) to attach the shelf supports. Tap a small nail through the drywall until you locate both edges of the truss. Measure to find the center, of the adjacent trusses, and measure to keep the three supports .in alignment with one another. Finish the shelf unit by attaching a 3IB-in. x 4-ft. x 6-ft. plywood floor (Photo 3).
.,
Measure from the ceiling to the top of the raised garage door. Subtract 1 in. to determine the height of the side 2x4s.
fJ
Build three identical shelf supports, align the side supports, and predrill and lag-screw each into the center of the ceiling trusses.
Cut 3/8-in. plywood for the shelf base and attach it to the 2x4 shelf supports with l-in. wood screws.
Don't overload bins with heavy stuff. Limit the total weight to about 160 Ibs.
lngs .-in.
Figure A
z.as
and
rst],
2X4
x 6'
2x4
~"F
Each shelf holds eight containers 16 in. wide x 24 in. long x 12-1/2 in. high.
OVERHEAD
STORAGE
25
I
~
I
Build sturdy, simple shelves, custom sized to hold boxes or other storage containers.
..
~I
1::.1semble,
shelving units are either hard to asflimsy or awfully expensive. Here's a better solution. These shelves are strong, easy to build and cost about $70. The sturdy shelf unit is sized to hold standard bankers' boxes ($4 each). If you want deeper storage, build the shelves 24 in. deep and buy 24-in.-deep boxes. If you prefer to use plastic storage bins, measure the size of the containers and modify the shelf and upright spacing to fit.
Refer to the dimensions above to mark the location of the horizontal 2x2 on the back of four 2x4s. Also mark the position of the Zx4 uprights on the ZxZs. Then simply line up the marks and screw the ZxZs to the 2x4s with pairs of Z-l/Z-in. wood screws. Be sure to keep the ZxZs and Zx4s at right angles. Rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet of liZ-in. MDF, plywood or OSB into l6-in.-wide strips and screw it to the Zx2s to connect the two frames and form the shelving unit.
You can modify the study storage shelves above and create a greatlooking storage center. The only modifications to the project shown above are the addition of one shelf, the 22-1/2-in. measurement was changed to 14 in.,and the 4-in. measurement was changed to 6 in.
Overall dimensions: 62-1/2" tall x 96" wide x 19" deep Paint used on shelves:
26
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
:ws
f
I I
I!I designed
uild 'em and fill 'em. These sturdy cabinets are cutting a lot Of plywood accurately. A table saw helps for simple assembly. Just glue and screw here, but a circular saw with a guide works fine too. Add a drill or two, a couple of clamps and some careful adplywood together to make the basic box, then add a prevance planning, and start building! made door, actually an inexpensive bifold door panel. Since bifolds are readily available in several styles, including louvered and paneled, it's easy to make a wide Buying the bltolds and plywood range of practical yet handsome cabinets without the When planning the cabinets, begin by choosing the bifold door and build the rest of the cabinet to match its dim entime and hassle of making the doors. sions. Standard bifolds are 79 in. Make the cabinets big and deep high and available in 24-in., 3D-in., to store clothing and sports gear; 32-in. and 36-in. widths. Keep in shallow and tall for shovels, rakes, skis or fishing rods; or shallow and mind that it takes two doors for each Cutting Tip short to mount on walls for tools, of these widths, each approximately 12,15,16 or 18 in. wide. The cabinet paint cans and other small items. Let someone eLsedo it! Or mount them on wheels and roll can be any of the single-door widths Most lumberyards and home centers have or any of the double-door widths. Or the tools right to the job. The only a large saw (called a panel saw) for cutting cut the doors down to make shortlimitation is the size of standard sheets of plywood. For a nominal fee, they bifold doors. er cabinets, as demonstrated here. will rip all of the plywood to proper widths. Make them any depth desired. Here you'll learn how to build (Cut the pieces to length later.) It requires planning the cabinet depths in advance, one of the smaller hanging wall Bifolds come in several styles but it's quicker than ripping the plywood at cabinets. Use the same techniques and wood species. This project home and makes hauling it a lot easier. shows louvered pine doors ($60 for and the Cutting lists on pp. 28 and 30 in. wide) and birch plywood ($40 29 to build others. Advanced skills or special tools are not needed to per sheet) for a handsome, natural look. All the materials build this entire set of cabinets. However, it does require for the ventilated wall cabinet shown at top, p. 28,
Best in DIY
STURDY
MULTIPURPOSE
STORAGE
SHELVES;
SIMPLE
UTILITY
CABINETS
27
Figure A
Ventilated wall cabinet
Cuttingl ist
KEY A QTY. SIZE&, DESCRIPTION 2 2 2 3 2 1 14-3/4" x 43-3/4" doors (30" bifold,)* 3/4" x 11-1/4" x 43-3/4" sides 3/4" x 11-1/4" x 28-1/8" top and bottom 3/4" x 11·1/4" x 28-1/8" shelves 3/4" x 3" x 28-1/8" hanging cleats 114" x 29-5/8" x 43-3/4" back
B C D E
F
4)
SIDE
43-3/4"
•
Storage locker Compact storage for long items like skis, fishing rods, long-handled tools; either on the floor or wall-hung; 12-in.- wide door and one fixed shelf. Closet on wheels Large storage capacity (about 32 in. wide and 22-112 in. deep): fixed shelf; closet rod; 3-in. swivel casters ($6 each). Paneled wall cabinet Shorter version of cabinet above; made from the paneled portion of partial louvered doors; one adjustable shelf. Narrow floor or wall cabinet Shelf version of storage locker Cleft); top and bottom shelves fixed; intermediate shelves mounted on adjustable shelf standards ($2 each).
28
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
guide the saw. Cut the other cabinet pieces using the straightedge as.well.
Predrill screw holes through the sides 3/8 in. from the ends. Drive 1-S/8-in. screws with finish washers through the sides into the top and bottom. Stack extra shelves in the corners to keep the box square.
including hardware, cost about $70. The five cabinets cost $320. Cut that cost considerably by using less expensive plywood, bifolds and hinges. · Also save by using plywood efficiently. Decide on the door sizes, then layout all the cabinet pieces on a seals drawing of a 4 x 8-ft. sheet of plywood (graph pa:per helps). Feel free to adjust the cabinet depths a bit to' achieve best use. The five cabinets shown were built from four sheets of 3/4-in. plywood and two sheets of 1/4~in. plywood for the backs.
The "partial wrap-around" hinges may not be available at home centers or hardware stores. However, woodworking stores carry them; see photo, p. 30. If exposed hinges are okay, simply use bifold hinges, which cost less than $1 each at home centers.
Cutting list
s.torage locker ITEM
Door Sides .Top, bottom shelf Cleats Front cleat Back
on
1 2
SIZE
&
DESCRIPTION
ITEM
Doors Sides Cleats Back
on
2 2
11-3/4" x 79" (half of a 24" bifold)* 3/4" x 11-1/4" x 79" 3/4" x 11-1/4" x 10-1/4" 3/4" x 3" x 10-1/4" 3/4"
3
2 1 II
x 3" x
10-1/4"
x x x x
x 32-1/4" x 28-1/8" x
32-1/4"
28-1/8"
29-5/8"
· Closet on wheels
ITE.M · Doors Sides Top, bottom shelf Cleats Back Casters
2 3 3 1 'I
x 11-3/4" x 79"
'Exact
door sizes vary. Measure the doors before decidinq exsct cabinet dimensions.
SIMPLE
UTILITY
CABINETS
29
Predrrll, clamp and screw the fixed shelf to the sides. Use adjustable shelves as a guide to space it and keep it square.
and drive screws through the top, bottom and sides into the cleats.
Assemble the box face down on a flat surface. The garage floor works well for this step. Mark and predrill screw holes through the sides for . the top and bottom pieces (Photo 2). Use partial wrapThis project uses finish washers (Bit each; around hinges available at full-service hardware stores) for The hinges shown are , a more decorative look. available at woodworking ....1'" Attach the fixed shelf next to stiffen and stores such as Rockier /. ,.". strengthen the box (Photo 3). Use the Woodworking and Hard/ extra shelves as guides to help position ware (800-279-4441; \, /. and square the shelf. Predrill and drive three rockier. com; No. 31456; '\ >~" screws through each side into the fixed shelf. $8 per pair). Less expen'\" Attach cleats at the top and bottom of the sive styles are also available. cabinet to use for screwing the cabinet to a wall the cut on the dividing rail. Be prepared for the saw to (Photo 4). Use three or four screws across the top and botbump up and down slightly as it crosses each stile (Photo tom. Clamp the cleat into place until the screws are driv1). Then trim each newly created door so that the top and en. Because the screws won't be visible on the top and bottom rails are the same width. bottom, skip the finish washers. Make sure the cleat sits Some bifold door manufacturers use only a single flush with the side (Photo 4). dowel to attach each rail to the stile. If that's the case, one The 1/4-in. plywood back stiffens the frame and keeps of the rails (after being cut in half) is no longer attached it square, which is essential for the doors to fit accurately. to the door. Don't panic. Dab a little glue on each rail and Spread glue along the cabinet edges, including the fixed stile and clamp them back together. After 20 minutes or shelf and the hanging cleats (Photo 5). Carefully set the so, they'll be ready. back onto the cabinet, keeping the top flush with the cabThen cut the plywood to size using a guide to keep all inet top. Nail in the order and direction shown in Photo the cuts straight and square. If the plywood splinters a 5. Align the edges carefully before nailing each side to bit, score the cutting line first with a utility knife. keep the cabinet perfectly square.
Best in DIY
30
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
•
rill
s.
Spread a bead of glue on all back edges. Then align the plywood back with the top and nail with I-in. brads. Align the other sides and nail in the order shown.
pegboard template. Mark one side of the cabinet, then slide (not flip) the pegboard to the opposite side and mark matching holes. Drill the I/4-in. pin holes.
h: or ld e
n
ee f. e
111
t-
d
ts s y. d
.e
to to
Use a scrap of pegboard to help layout the holes evenly for the adjustable shelf support pins. Mark each hole clearly (red circles; Photo 6) on the front and back of the pegboard. Mark each hole position on one side of the cabinet, then slide the pegboard across to the other side for marking. Don't flip the pegboard over; it can throw the pattern off and the shelves will rock rather than lie flat. Most shelf support pins require a 1/4-in. hole, but ~ check the pins to be sure. In addition, measure how ~ far the pins are supposed to go into the cabinet sides. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit at this depth. This ensures that the bit won't go completely through the side of the cabinet. Check the bit after every few holes to make sure the tape hasn't slipped. Install the door hinges 6 in. from the top and bottom of the doors (add a third hinge on taller doors). The best type is a "partial wrap-around" hinge (Photo 7). Its hinge leaves are hidden when the door is closed, and the design avoids driving screws into the weak plywood edge grain. Begin by installing the hinges on the door (Photo 7). Keep them perfectly square to the door edge and
predrill screw holes as precisely as possible. An extra set of hands will be helpful when attaching the doors to the cabinet. Have one person align the door exactly with the top or bottom of the cabinet while the second person marks, predrills and screws the hinges to the cabinet side. Repeat for the other door. Ideally the doors will meet evenly in the center with about a liS-in. gap between. If not, "tweak" the MAGNETIC LATCH hinge positions slightly with paper shims, or plane the doors a bit to make them perfect. Choose any type of knob and magnetic latch. However, bifold door stiles (the vertical edges) are CATCH PLATE narrow, so make sure the neighboring door will clear the knob when opened (Photo S). If there's a rail (the horizontal door frame member), mount the knobs there. Another potential problem: Bifold stiles are usually 1 to i-r/s in. thick and most knobs are designed for 3/4-in. doors. Look for longer knob screws at a local hardware store. Or try this trick: With a 3/S-in. bit, drill a 1/4-in.-deep hole on the back side of the stile to recess the screwhead.
SIMPLE
UTILITY
CABINETS
31
,I
,
Screw the hinges to the cabinet doors. Align the door edges with the cabinet top and bottom. Then predrill and screw the hinges to the cabinet sides. Attach cabinet knobs to the doors and install a pair of magnetic latches to hold the doors closed. For full-length doors, install latches at both the top and the bottom.
To mount a magnetic latch, first mount the magnet to the underside of the fixed shelf (Photo 8). Stick the catch plate to the magnet with the "mounting points" facing out (photo, p. 31, bottom right). Close the door and press it tightly against the latch. The points on the catch plate will indent the door slightly and indicate where to mount the plate.
Finishing
That's about it. These cabinets are finished inside and out with two coats of clear water-based satin polyurethane. It dries quickly (one-half hour), has little or no odor, and cleans up with soap and water. The first coat raises the wood grain a bit, so sand it lightly with fine sandpaper (150 grit or finer). Whether using a clear finish, paint or stain, it's generally faster to remove the doors and hardware first.
Best in DIY
Use iron-on edge banding
If you'd like these cabinets to have a more finished look, you can apply edge banding ($6 for 25 ft. at home centers) to the exposed plywood edges. The process couldn't be simpler: You just iron on the adhesive-backed veneer and trim off the excess. You can trim with a utility knife, but that requires a steady hand, and any wrong move creates a wavy edge. An edge band trimmer ($20) eliminates mistakes and does the job much faster. For complete edge-banding to familyhandyman.com "edge banding." instructions, go and search for
Finishing Tip
32
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
net-
out
.
It
I!
'I
Figure A
Bookcase construction
Overall dimensions: 84-1/2" tall x 99-112" wide (at crown) x 18-1/2" deep (at cabinet top)
34
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
A), Square each box by taking diagonal measurements, then attach the back. Equal measurements means the box is square. Edge-band the front with iron-on birch.
and pocket screws. Glue and nail a plywood panel to the back of each frame. M iter, glue and nail molding to the panel front.
Best in DIY
Assembly Tip
Use pocket screws
Pocket screw joints have many advantages over more traditional joinery: • You can assemble large needing an arseframes without
nal of expensive clamps because the screws provide the clamping action while the glue dries. • No fancy cutting is required; joints are simply butted together, saving time and reducing tool costs. :. The use of an alignment clamp during assembly ensures flush joints without
simple doors a rich look. Cut the solid wood rails and stiles following the Cutting List and assemble them with pocket screws (Photo 2). The pocket screw holes will be visible on the back of each door, so fill them with a solvent-based wood filler such as Plastic Wood (waterbased fillers dry slowly and can swell wood when used to fill large, deep holes). The filler will shrink as it dries, so you'll have to apply a second, skim coat after four
GRAND BOOKCASE
35
Lay the cabinet box on its side and center the door against it. Mark hinge guidelines on the door and cabinet using a 2-1/4-in.wide spacer block.
Center the mounting plate template on the cabinet guideline and drill two 3/32-in. pilot holes for the mounting plate. Screw the mounting plate to the cabinet.
hours. Sand the joints flush on both sides of the doors and lightly sand the plywood panels before assembly with ISO-grit sandpaper. Fasten the panels with liZ-in. brads. Careful! y center the panels so they're 1-314 in. from the edges of the door frames; this leaves ample space for mounting the hinges. Miter the moldings and install them with glue and l-1/4-in. brads. Throughout this project, use brads sparingly. Drive only as many as
it takes to draw glue joints tight. Fewer brads means less time spent filling holes later. For some tips on installing mitered moldings, see Best in DIY:Mitering Tips, p. 3S.
Figure B
0001'
construction
The three cabinet boxes are divided and flanked by four flat, protruding columns, or "pilasters." Make the pilasters using a 3/S-in. cove bit and simple jig that guides your router bit at the beginning and end of each
36
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
..
RELEASE LEVER
II
Mark the center point of the hinge hole 7/8 in. from the door's edge using a homemade spacer jig. Drill the hinge hole with a I-3/8-in. Forstner bit. Insert the hinge and screw it to the door. Snap the hinges onto the mounting plates to make sure they fit correctly. Then remove the doors by pulling the release lever.
s g
e ,f
n
Screw 2-I/4-in.-wide guide blocks to plywood to make a pilaster jig. Screw on a wedge block and lock each pilaster in place with a wedge. Rout coves in the pilasters with a 3/8-in. cove bit.
Build the facades just as you built the doors. Glue the pilasters to the facades. Glue I-1I2-in.-wide strips of plywood together to make l.-cleats, and attach the cleats to the facades.
3/8" COVE BIT
cut (Photo 7). To get perfect, splinter-free coves, rout the edges of each pilaster in two passes. Set the bit to a depth of about 3/16 in. Rout all the pilaster edges once, then set the bit to a 1/4-in. depth and make a final pass along each edge. Next, build two facades to cover the sides of the left and right cabinet boxes. The facades are constructed just like the doors, with frames, a plywood panel and mitered moldTWO LAYERS OF ings. Glue a pilaster to the front edge 3/4" PLYWOOD of each facade. Also add L-cleats to the backs of the facades (Pho.to S). Space the rear cleat 3/4 in. from the back edge of the facade. These cleats allow you to attach the facades with screws driven from inside
the cabinet boxes (Photo g). Glue two layers of 3/4-in. plywood to the back sides of the two middle pilasters that fit between cabinet boxes.
37
Best in DIY
Mitering Tips
on the base. Screw the facades to the side boxes and screw the pilasters between boxes. Carefully position and screw the boxes to the base.
Be more efficient
This bookcase has a dozen door and side panels that are lined with molding. Fitting moldings inside a frame is slow work: You miter one end, then miter the other end so the piece is a hair too long, then shave that end again and again until the molding fits just right. The process is painstaking, but here are a few tricks to speed up the job: • Don't swing your saw from left to right a hundred times. Set your saw 45 degrees to the left and rough-cut all the pieces, making them 1/4 in. too long. Then set your saw to the right and cut them to length. • Don't bother with a tape measure. To mark the length of each piece, hold the mitered end in place and mark the other end with a sharp pencil (photo above). • Eliminate miter saw guesswork. Attach a flat scrap of plywood to the bed of your saw and cut kerfs in It. When you position a marked piece for cutting, you'll know exactly where the blade will land-no the bed and use double-faced guessing. To attach the carpet tape. 3/4-in. solid wood. Cut a cove in the underside of the banding with a router. plywood, you can drill holes into the metal bed or preserve
cap to the platform first, making it flush with the lid. Then add the baseboard. Set the base on furniture dollies ($20 each at home centers) or make your own dollies from plywood and casters ($3 each). Set the cabinet boxes on the base. Screw on the facades and join the boxes by screwing into the two other pilasters (Photo 9). All four pilasters protrude 1-1/4 in. from the cabinet boxes; cut a spacer block to help you position them. Gently shift the whole cabinet assembly to center it on the base and then fasten each box to the base with four 1-5/8-in. screws. The cabinet top is a slab of plywood banded with solid wood edging. Be sure to drive brads at the center of the banding. If you drive them too close to the underside of the banding, you might hit them with your router bit when you cove the banding (Photo 10). Next, glue and nail two layers of 3/4-in. plywood strips to the underside of the top
38
BEST STORAGE PROJECTS
Frame on the underside of the cabinet top with two layers of 3/4-in. plywood. Then wrap three sides of the frame with mitered base cap molding.
Assemble shelf boxes and side frames following Figure A. Glue side frames to both end shelf boxes. Then install base cap molding inside the frames.
You have to remove the blade guard to make these cuts. Keep hands and clothing away from the blade.
CAUTION
I;
Rout 1/4-in.-deep coves into both sides of the top rails. Then cut a rabbet on the back by making two cuts with your table saw. Cut the top rai I to length so that the half pi laster protrudes about 1/32 in. beyond the side of the shelf box. Glue and nail the top rai I into place followed by the half pi laster.
to form a frame. The back of the frame is flush with the back of the top. The other three sides are inset 1/2 in. from the edge of the plywood. The frame acts as a cleat, allowing you to screw the top in place from inside the cabinet boxes, and provides backing for the base cap (Photo 11). This is the same kind of molding that was used on the doors. With the entire cabinet unit assembled, snap the doors onto their mounting plates and adjust the hinges. If any doors fit badly, trim them with a belt sander or shave them down slightly on the table saw. Label each door with its location and set them aside to avoid damage.
Shelf units
To build the shelf units, you'll repeat the techniques you used on the cabinets. 'The shelf units begin as plywood boxes (Photo 12 and Figure A). Before assembly, drill holes for adjustable shelf supports just as you did with
the cabinet boxes. There's no need to edge-band the shelf parts. They'll be covered. When you assemble the center shelf box, keep screws at least 3-1/2 in. from the front of the box; that protruding part of the box will be exposed. Square the shelf boxes just as you did the cabinet boxes. To make the pilasters for the shelf units, build a 47-1/2-in.-Iong version of the jig shown in Photo 7. You'll need four full pilasters and two half pilasters. The sides of the shelf units are covered with frames. These frames are like the facades used on the cabinets, but without the 1/4-in. plywood panels. Instead, the shelf box sides act as panels. When you add the top rail and half pilaster (Photos 13 and 14), allow the half pilaster to protrude slightly from the shelf unit's side. This makes it easier to create a tight joint between the side units and the middle shelf unit. The middle shelf unit has no frame; cover the front plywood edges with two pilasters and a top rail.
GRAND BOOI(CASE
39
Material sl ist
For a wider selection of wood species and mold.ing profiles, visit a traditional lumberyard rather than a home center. Molding profiles vary, so you may not find the exact profiles shown here.
ITEM
QTY.
4' x 8' 3/4" hardwood plywood 3 4' x 8' 1/4" hardwood plywood 2 4' x 8' 3/4" construction plywood or M DF 1 lx4 boards 40' lx6 boards 60' Crown molding 12' Base cap molding 116' 1/2",1-1/4" and 1-3/4" brads 1-114",1·5/8" and 2" screws 2" metal straps 4 Wood glue Spray cans of satin lacquer 8 Ttre-followinq specialty items are available from Woodworker's Hardware, (800) 383-0130. wwhardware.com • Pocket hole jig (I(reg is one brand), I(TR 3, $40. 1-1/4" fine-thread pocket screws No. I(TSPS F125. $5.201100 screws Two 25' rolls of iron-on birch edge band No. n078 PB25. $7 each 12 Blum 107 Clip Top straight hinges No. B075Tl550. $2.44 each 12 Blum Omm. Mounting plates No. BI75H710. $1.37 each Mounting plate template No. B065.5310. EsaJe price] $7.n Plastic brackets No. H260.24.117. $7.60 (bag of 20) Shelf supports No. Gl11BR. $4/20 brackets
position them. Fasten them to the cabinet unit on the back side using metal straps. Position the lower ends of the pilasters with a tape measure and fasten them with small brackets hidden inside the she If units.
When the shelf units are complete, set them in place and fasten them to the cabinets below by screwing metal straps to the backs of the shelf units and cabinets. The sides of the shelf units may angle inward or outward slightly, so check the positions of the pilasters with a tape measure (Photo 15). Then anchor the shelf unit to the cabinet top with small brackets hidden behind each pilaster.
Figure C
Crown construction
xx
40
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
Cutting list
a
OTY.
3
B C
D E
F
W X
Y
1 1 4
17-1/2" x 93-1/4" base lid 17-3/4" x 94" cabinet top 2-1/2" x 93" cabinet top frame (assemble from scrap plywood) 2-1/2" x 12-1/4" cabinet top frame 10-1/2" x 47-1/2" box sides H)-1/2" x 24-3/4" box top 26" x 47-1/4" back 2-1/4" x 24-3/4" back rail 13-1/2" x 47-1/2" box sides 13-1/2" x 37-1/?" box top 38-3/4" x 47-1/4" back 2-1/4" x 37-1/2" back rail 3'" x 47-1/2" shelf pilasters 1-1/2" x 47-1/2" half pilasters 2-1/4" x 47-1/2" rear stiles 1-1/2" x 47-1/2" front stiles 3" x 7" side rails
p'lywood and black
RR SS
TT
1 3 3 6 6 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 2
2-1/4" x 33" top rail (cut to fitl 12-1/2" x 37-1/4" middle shelves
2
1 40' 60' 12' 116'
Z
AA
4 4 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 4 2 2 2 6
H
4 8 J I( L M N
BB CC DD
UU VV WW XX
yy
EE FF
GG HH
JJ I<I( LL
ZZ AAA BBB
p
25.
178
R S
T U V
eee
DDD EEE
solid cherry.
MM NN
plywood,
are
3/4-in.
"Utility-grade" plywood was used for most of the hidden parts (Sheet 1). You could use AC plywood or MDF. For the exposed parts, more expensive cherry plywood was used (Sheets 2 - 6),
1
I
cc
_. __~ - - __ I I ,
i
.,I
I I I I ~I
, , '
GG
I I I
~ __ -
, ,
:
L
I I
~
I ,
'
=_
-1- - - - - -- - - - -~,-:
I
:
,
:
I
L.
:
I
-----------------------------------.-------------------------------(
cc
i
r
,
, • ,
n
I
------------------------_----
I =::: ==::::= ==
==-:::::
: I
~ [I
I
I I
,
'
i
I
AA
AA
~,
I L
I ,
=~
AA ----------------l
AA
~-~-. -~~ -~~----- --
I I
:
I I I
:
I I I
--
~ ~~ ~ _,-_,_ ----
---
- --_
.. - - - - --
- - - - - 'r'~ - - - - - - - -I
--1
,
f
'I
"
EE
EE
1
I
ss
_~ - __ - -
i
- - __I
BB
~.
L __
1.
- - --
~ ~~~ - ~- - -
-r-r-r-- -- --
_J
BB
i
GRAND BOOI(CASE 41
Bui'ld the crown's frame and add the parapet. Wrap the frame with base cap molding and install crown molding. Glue and nail in V-blocks to strengthen the crown molding.
Best in DIY
Safety Tip
Install chain latches
Any bookcase you build should be anchored to the wall so it can't tip over and injure someone. Simply screwing it to wall studs is one good solution. If you choose that method, load up the bookcase with books so it fully compresses the carpet before you drive the screws. If you want to be able to move the bookcase without removing screws, pick up a couple of chain latches ($5 each). Fasten the chains to studs with 2-1/2-in. coarse-thread screws. Position the tracks so there will be just enough slack in the chains for you to detach them.
the frame. A narrower version of base cap in cherry wasn't available, so it was cut down on the table saw (photo, right). Crown molding in rooms is usually 4-5/8" CROWN coped at inside MOLDING corners to account for out-of-square walls. Since the frame has perfectly square corners, the two inside corner joints were mitered for this bookcase (Photo 16). BASE CAP When you cut the two [CUT DOWN) short pieces of crown that flank the middle protruding section, do it safely: Cut them from a piece at least 12 in. long while holding on to the waste side. Don't hold on to the short piece. When the crown molding is in place, glue in V-blocks to support it. If you want to display items on top ofthe crown, cut a sheet of 3/4-in. plywood to fit. The parapet is 3/4 in. lower than the crown molding, so a plywood top will fit down inside it.
42
BEST
STORAGE
PROJECTS
45 Stay-Clean Tip: Wear gloves 46 Repair damaged walls 47 Work Tidy Tips: Paper bag
dust catcher. neat sanding sponge, moist air
52 Spray-texture
hing
ou can 1 about e reasb stain ce, so Condioats of e days, t sandf satin twice ish for d side work. spend e parts heavy rward etwo e paraanent , left).
ss
Finding & fixing roof leaks 55 Home Care Tip: Fix leaks now 56 Safety Tips: Roof brackets, planks and harness
66
5 cash-saving
auto fixes
43
II
I ,
II
I
oilets haven't changed much in the last 80 years. After a flush, water still fills a tank, lifting a float that shuts off the water when it reaches a certain level. A lever still opens a flapper to cause the flush, falling back into
place when the water level drops. But, sometimes the flush is too wimpy, sometimes the water keeps running, and sometimes the bowl doesn't refill. Here's how to fix a running toilet without the expensive call to the plumber.
44
MONEY-SAVING
FIXES
Unsnap the old flapper and take it with you to the store to find an exact replacement. In addition to the closest replacement, pick up a "universal" type.
Best in DIY
Stay-Clean Tip
Wear gloves
Wear plasttc gloves when you remove the flapper. A fine black film often builds up on rubber surfaces and it Is hard to scrub it off your hands.
I
STOP A RUNNING TOILET
45
II II
I
I!
in drywall
Doorknobs, vacuum cleaners, baseball bats, elbowsthere are many ways large holes show up in walls. This rock-solid fix will demonstrate how to patch those holes in drywall walls by installing a 2x4 backer board to prevent it from happening in the same spot again. All the necessary supplies can be found at hardware stores and home centers.
Reach through the hole, enlarging it if necessary, and feel for electrical wires or other obstructions. Cut out a 5-1/2-in.-wide rectangle between the studs to remove the damaged section.
Hold the 2x4 flush to the front edge of the wall studs and predrill 1/8-in. holes through both. Solidly anchor the 2x4 with 2-1/2in. screws. Then screw on a drywall patch with 1-114-in. screws.
46
MONEY-SAVING
FIXES
s
ywall, away your ey the pipes, strucn stud
a 2x4,
our or tape
Ito 4).
and patch with joint compound and allow it to dry. Lay a thin coat of joint. compound over the seams and press in the drywall tape. Drag a 6-in. putty knife along the tape to squeeze out the excess joint compound, apply another thin coat over the tape and allow it to dry.
pound. Use a 6-in. or larger putty compound, let the joint compound ridges with the putty knife before with ISO-grit sandpaper and then
knife to apply a coat of joint dry and then scrape down any recoating. Sand the patch smooth paint.
REPAfR DAMAGED WALLS
47
[I
Cut throuqh the tape at the ends of the cracked area and slice, scrape and tear away all loose tape and compound.
Apply a liS-in. layer of joint compound, then fold and press paper tape into it. Stroke the length of the tape, squeezing compound out on both sides. Let dry.
I
Apply second and third coats to smooth the joint, tapering the compound about 6 in. out. Let one side dry before applying compound to the other side. 48
MONEY-SAVING FIXES
Lightly sand the finished repair using a fine-grit sanding sponge to make a crisp corner. Prime and paint to match the existing wall.
the
:ing.
As homes settle, cracks may radiate from the corners of doors and windows. Whether your walls are made of plaster or drywall, you can repair the cracks in two steps over a day or two-and get the area, ready to sand and paint. Use paper tape; it's stronger than fiberglass tape for wall repairs. For cracks more than 1/4 in. deep, clean out the loose material and use a setting compound like Durabond to build up the area level with the wall. Then use the steps shown in Photos 2 and 3 to fix it.
in. deep, removing all loose wall material. Protect woodwork with masking tape .
.s
Embed paper tape in joint compound using a 6-in. taping blade. To avoid trapping air bubbles under the tape, moisten the paper 'tape with water, lay it over the crack and squeeze excess compound and air hom underneath with the blade. Apply an additional thin layer of cornpeund and feather it off 2 in. on both sides of the tape. Let dry.
Apply a second (and third, if necessary) coat of compound, smoothing it out 6 to 7 in. on both sides of the joint. Smooth the compound to a thin, even coat using long, continuous strokes with a 12-in. taping blade. Allow the repair to dry thoroughly, sand it smooth (avoid exposing the tape) and paint it.
Best in DIY
Work Tidy Tips Paper bag dust catcher
Minimize the mess when you're cutting or drilling a hole if) drywall. Tape a bag below the work zone to catch the dust. Use an easy-release tape to avoid wall damage.
Moist air
lnge III. When you're sanding drywall, use a humidifier in the room. The moist air makes the dust settle quickly, so it's less likely to spread throughout the house.
REPAIR
DAMAGED
WALLS
49
Plaster sags from ceilings or bulges from walls when the plaster keys embedded around the wood lath break loose. To repair it, you've got two choices (three if you count hiring an expensive contractor!). You can break out all the loose stuff and rep laster the area-not necessarily a do-it-yourself project. Or, you can stabilize the sagging plaster by using plaster washers to pull it back up against the lath (available at leevalley.com; item no. 67Z20.02). Plaster washers don't always work, but they're cheap (about $14 for 100), so it's worth a shot. First, locate the joists or studs and mark their location in the loose area. Push up the loose plaster and place 2-in. screws and the perforated plaster washers into the joists or studs about every 6 or 8 in. The convex washer will flatten as the screw tightens. If the plaster has a rough surface, you may need to first scrape the surface to get the washer to lie flat. Next, secure the loosened field to the lath between joists with more washers. Finally, skim-
coat over the washers with drywall joint compound. It may take several coats and extra effort to create a smooth finish or mimic the existing texture. If you have solidly attached plaster with cracks spider-webbing through your walls and ceilings, you can stabilize and coat the entire surface with another product-sheets of fiberglass mat. One such system, called Nu-Wal (spec-chem.corn), costs about 52r,t per square foot. With it, you simply roll on a latex-like base coat, embed the fiberglass mesh, and roll over it again. This method essentially gives your plaster walls a new flexible skin so nonstructural cracks won't reappear. Plus, it acts like a vapor barrier, keeping moisture from migrating into the wall, and it's approved for lead paint encapsulation on interior walls. Before making repairs, be sure to solve the moisture, settling or other problems that caused the cracking or sagging.
50
MONEY-SAVING
FIXES
PLASTER WASHERS
.. --.,-, .. :'.--
~--
~.".
.....
"'')\.,
Secure solid plaster around the damaged area using plaster washers. Concretelike plaster is tough and messy to cut with a circular saw, so carefully use a masonry bit to drill a series of holes around the repair area, then "connect the dots" with a chisel.
ft.'!
~rl'
j,'
Hold a cold chisel at a shallow angle to the ceiling to avoid breaking lath or loosening additional plaster. Carefully chip plaster away from wooden lath in damaged area.
STUD
Patch with drywall of appropriate thickness. Drywall is available in a wide range of thicknesses. Space drywall screws about 6 in. apart along edges and every 8 in. along a joist or stud.
d. It oth
cks
JOINT
TAPE
BROWN COAT
aint ure, g or
FINISH COAT
Plaster wall anatomy: When plaster is applied over lath, the first (scratch) coat squeezes through the lath's gaps or holes to create "keys" that bond it to the lath. Sagging plaster is usually an indication that some keys have broken.
..... Apply joint tape (paper or fiberglass mesh) over joints and skim-coat the entire repair area after taping. Work in thin layers to blend the patch with the surrounding surface. Sand smooth, then texture, prime and paint.
REPAIR DAMAGED WALLS
a"
51
m
!
I
I
your spray-textured ceiling is just dingy or stained, you can renew it with a coat each of sealer and paint. But if the texture is falling off or missing in spots, you'll have to reapply texture to fix the problem. For small areas, say less than a foot in diameter, you could try using an aerosol can of repair texture. But the patch is bound to stick out like a sore thumb. For the best results, you're better off res praying the entire ceiling. It's a messy job, but it's not hard to do. In fact, after you spray one room, you'll probably want to keep going. You can spraytexture unsightly plaster or smooth drywall ceilings too. As with most jobs, the key is in the prep work, which is also the time-consuming part. Once the room is masked off, the ceiling prepped and the texture mixed, it'll only take you about 15 minutes to spray the ceiling. If any of the paper drywall tape is loose or the drywall is soft or damaged, you'll have to repair and sand these areas first. In addition to the putty knives and drywall joint compound for the repairs, you'll need a wide putty or taping knife for scraping, a roll of t-I/z-in. or wider masking tape, enough painter's plastic to cover the walls, a gallon or two of primer/sealer, a bag of spray texture (enough to cover 300 to 400 sq. ft.), and a compressor and hopper gun. You can buy coarse, medium or fine texture. If you're matching existing ceilings, take a sample of the material with you when you buy the texture and ask for help matching it. Medium is usually the best choice and
52
MONEY-SAVING FIXES
will match most ceilings. You can rent a compressor and hopper gun for about $30 for a half day or buy a hopper gun for about $70 and connect it to any average-size or larger compressor. If you use a small compressor, you may occasionally have to stop spraying to let the pressure build up. Minimize rental costs by getting all the prep work done before you pick up the compressor and hopper gun. Start by removing everything you can from the room. If you must leave large furniture in the room, stack it in the center and cover it with plastic. Cover the floor with sheets or a canvas drop cloth. Then cover the walls with thin (I-mil or less) poly sheeting (Photo 1). Painter's plastic is very thin and works great. Leave an opening with overlapping poly at the doorway so you can get in and out. Turn off the power to the lights and remove any ceiling fixtures. Don't forget to cap the bare wires with wire connectors. Stuff Buy a hopper gun like this for about newspaper into the $70 and connect it to any 2.S-cfm electrical box to keep or larger air compressor. Or, you can rent. out the spray texture.
LOOSE
EDGE OF
MASKING TAPE
PAINTER'S PLASTIC
rand .pper ze or you pres1 the , and oom. it in with with ter's
Speed up and simplify your masking job by applying the tape along the ceiling first. Leave the lower edge of the tape loose. Then rollout a length of lightweight poly along the floor, pull one edge up to the ceiling, and stick it to the tape.
The next step is to scrape off the old texture (Photo z, below), but not before you've had it tested for asbestos. If it hasn't been painted, it'll usually come off easily. So try just scraping it first. If that doesn't work (you'll know right away), try wetting the texture with a pump-up garden sprayer. That might make it easier to scrape, but it'll leave a sticky mess on the floor. If you use this method, cover your drop cloths with 4-mil plastic so you can wad it up and dispose of the wet texture and not track it all over the house. Texture that's been painted over can be a lot harder to remove. Just do the best you can. Try to knock off the high spots and flatten it as much as possible. The ceiling doesn't have to be smooth, but it's easier to get a nice-looking job if most of the old texture has beenremoved. When you're done scraping, paint the ceiling with stain-sealing primer (Photo 3). BIN and KILZ are two popular brands. Use an aerosol can of solvent-based sealer such as BIN white shellac to spot-prime severe stains. Then paint the entire ceiling with a water-based primer/sealer. The key to a successful spray-texture job is mixing the texture to the right consistency: Don't mix it too thick. Use the amount of water recommended on the bag as a starting point. Then adjust the thickness by adding more water or powder. Mix slowly using a mixing paddle mounted in a liZ-in. drill (Photo 4). Mix thoroughly, adding water until the material reaches the consistency of runny yogurt-or thick paint-with tiny lumps in it. Let the texture sit for 15 minutes, then remix, adding more water if necessary. There are a few different versions of hopper guns, but they all have a mechanism at the nose 'that controls the diameter of the pattern, and a trigger control that helps govern the volume of spray. Start by setting both controls to the middle position. Then load the hopper about
STAIN·SEAUNG PlUMER
bout fm the messy job of scraping texture. Popcorn spray texture comes olf easily if it hasn't been painted.
Paint the ceiling with a fast-drying primer/sealer. Let it dry before applying the spray texture.
SPRAY·TEXTURE
A DAMAGED
CEILING
53
1
I.
!
I
I
Mix the powdered spray texture and water thoroughly. Lumps will clog the spray tip and could mess up your spray job. Let it rest 15 minutes and remix, adding water if necessary.
half full with texture material and practice on a piece of cardboard or drywall scrap (Photo 5). Adjust the spray pattern and trigger until you can get a nice, even pattern without runs or excess buildup. When you're comfortable with the spraying technique, start on the ceiling. Start by spraying the perimeter (Photo 6). Hold the gun -about 18 to 24 in. from the ceiling and aim so that about two-thirds of the spray hits the ceiling and the rest hits the wall. Move quickly around the room, paying special attention to the inside comers where walls meet. Remember, you can make another pass if it's too light. The goal is to cover the ceiling with an even layer of texture. Don't worry if it looks too smooth. The texture will become more pronounced as it dries. Be careful to avoid puddles. If you mess up and get a puddle or just a thick buildup, stop and scrape off all the texture with a wide putty knife. Then try again. Move the gun back and forth while backing up across the room. After you've covered the ceiling, tum 90 degrees and apply another light coat at a right angle to the first. Concentrate on filling in light spots to create an even texture. When you're satisfied with the consistency of the texture, you can clean up the gun, hopper and hose with water and pull down the poly. If your masking job was a little off and there's texture on the wall or flooring, wait for it to dry. Then carefully scrape it off and remove the white residue with a wet sponge.
JUST
RIGHT
Practice on cardboard or a piece of drywall to get a feel for spraying. Adjust the gun's tip and trigger until you get a consistent spray pattern that's easy to control. 54
MONEY-SAVING FIXES
heavy buildup-you
see of spray Itt ern nfortg. d the i aim T hits wall. aying .rners . you light. with ITTy if 11beireful rddle xture 3 gun After apply atrate If the , with was a , wait re the
you have water stains that extend .. across ceilings or run down walls, the cause is probably a roof leak. Tracking down the leak is the hard part; the fixes are usually pretty easy. Here are some simple tricks for finding and repairing most of the common types of roof leaks.
Best in DIY
Home Care Tip
Fix leaks now
Have a roof leak? Well, you'd better fix it, even if it doesn't bother you much or you're getting a new roof next year. Over time, even small leaks can lead to big expensive problems, such as mold, rotted framing and sheathing, destroyed insulation and damaged ceilings. The flashing leak that caused this $950 repair bill was obvious from the ceiling stains for over two years. If the homeowner had dealt with It right repairs would have been minimal. away, the damage and subsequent
oid
If you have attic access, the easiest way to track down a leak is to go up there with a flashlight and look for the evidence. There will be water stains, black marks or mold. But if access is a problem or you have a vaulted ceiling, you'll have to go up onto the roof and examine the
SPRAY-TEXTURE A DAMAGED CEILING; FINDING
& FIXING
ROOF LEAKS
55
I
II'
I
I I
!
I
I
I.
suspect(s). The photos on the following pages will show you what to look for. If the problem still isn't obvious, enlist a helper and go up on the roof with a garden hose. Start low, soaking the area just above where the leak appears in the house. Isolate areas when you run the hose. For example, soak the downhill side of a chimney first, then each side, then the top on both sides. Have your helper stay inside the house waiting for the drip to If running water doesn't reveal the €-xact location of the leak, don't be timid. Start rernovinq shingles appear. Let the hose run for sev- in the suspect area. With them removed, there'll be evidence of the leak and you'll be able to track eral minutes in one area before it down right to the source. You'll see ctscoloredtett paper or water-stained or even rotted wood moving it up the roof a little directly below and around it. farther. Tell your helper to yell when a drip becomes visible. You'll be in the neighborso be patient and don't move the hose too soon. Buy your hood of the leak. This process can take well over an hour, helper lunch!
Best in DIY
Safety Tips
Lay a 2x6 plank across the brackets and attach it to the brackets with screws. Make sure the 2x6 extends-at least 6 in. but not more than 12 in. past the end brackets. Set another row of roof brackets and planks about every 8 ft. up the roof, or as close together as needed to make your work safe and convenient.
Clip the end of the safety rope to the ring on the roof anchor. Then clip the lanyard to the D-ring on the back of the harness. Squeeze the rope-grab and slide it along the safety rope to reposition the lanyard on the rope as you move around the roof.
56
MONEY-SAVING
FIXES
g shingles
.0
track
wood
luy your
the sealant between the layers. Then you'll be able to drive the flat bar under the nail heads to pop out the nails.
Solution:
nails. They'll
Replace
screws.
Briel( chimneys
ness
sty lot.
All kinds of bad things can happen around brick chimneys. In fact, there are far too many to cover here. Flashing around chimneys can rust through if it's galvanized steel, especially at the gO-degree bend at the bottom. A quick but fairly long-term fix is to simply slip new flashing under the old rusted stuff. That way any water that seeps through will be diverted. The best fix, though, is to cut a saw kerf into the mortar and install new flashing. If you want to see what's involved,go to familyhandyman. com and type in "chimney flashing."
Check for cracked housings on plastic roof vents and broken seams on metal ones. You might be tempted to throw caulk at the problem, but that solution won't last long. There's really no fix other than replacing the damaged vents. Also look for pulled or missing nails at the base's bottom edge. Replace them with rubber-washered screws. In most cases, you can remove nails under the shingles on both sides of the vent Problem: Plastic roof vents 1b e nai 1s across t h e can crack and leak. hi . tape Duct to pull it free. There wil . I is not the solution t IS time. top of the vent too. Usually you can also work those loose without removing shingles. Screw the bottom in place with rubber-washered screws. Squeeze out a bead of caulk beneath the shingles on both sides of the vent to hold the shingles down and to add a water barrier. That's much easier than renailing the shingles.
or. Then
queeze
n the
FINDING
& FIXING
ROOF LEAKS
57
Problem: Unnailed step flashing can slip down and channel water into the wall.
Step flashing is used along walls that intersect the roof. Each short section of flashing channels water over the shingle downhill from it. But if the flashing rusts through, or a piece comes loose, water will run right behind it, and into the house it goes. Rusted flashing needs to be replaced. That means removing shingles, prying siding loose, and then removing and replacing the step flashing. It's that simple. But occasionally a roofer forgets to nail one in place and it eventually slips down to expose the wall.
Solution: Push a loose piece of step flashing right back in place and then secure it with caulk above and below.
5. Small holes
Tiny holes in shingles are sneaky because they can cause rot and other damage for years before you notice the obvious signs of a leak. You might find holes left over from satellite dish or antenna mounting brackets or just about anything. And exposed, misplaced roofing nails should be pulled and the holes patched. Small holes are simple to fix, but the fix isn't to inject caulk in the hole. You'll fix this one with flashing.
Solution: Seal nail holes forever. Slip flashing under the shingle and add a bead of caulk under and over the flashing to hold it in place.
A little time and a I.ittle know-how can save you big bucks!
.-:I
stoves, refrigerators and dishwashers. At a minimum, you'll save the $50 to $100 service charge that most appliance repair technicians charge just to show up.
Electric range
Problem: Burner doesn't heat
If one of your electric burners isn't heating, it could be a bad burner, a bad connection in the burner socket or a faulty switch.
a
sure
ht
Test the burner by replacing the burner that doesn't work with one that you know does.
t" U
n
Replace a burner socket if it's charred or corroded. Remove the screw that attaches the socket to the range. Unscrew the wires and reconnect them to the new socket. Attach the new socket.
MUlllMETER
der
Test the switch. Unplug the range and turn on the burner. Remove the wire from the H1 terminal. Set the tester to RX-l and place the probes on the Hl and H2 terminals. Replace the switch if the tester reading doesn't change. FINDING
place. Install the new switch and replace the screws. You may have to install one of the included adapters so your knob will fit.
& FIXING
ROOF LEAKS;
BEST
KITCHEN
APPLIANCE
FIXES
59
,I
I
CAUTION
necessary. unplug
Cut or
the wires.
First check to be sure the oven is plugged in and getting power and that the gas valve is open. If you have an older oven with a mechanical instead of a digital timer, check to make sure you haven't bumped it off the manual setting. If your oven still won't light, you probably need a new igniter. Even if you see the igniter glowing, it can be faulty.
burner
connectors
down
)~ before spalr,
Start by cleaning the spark igniter (Photo 3). The igniter is the white ceramic nub that's located near the base of the burner. Your range may look different from the one shown here. On this range, you lift off the burner to access the igniter. Clogged burner holes can also prevent the burner from lighting. Use a needle to clear the tiny hole or holes in the burner (near the igniter). If your burner still won't light after you've cleaned the burner holes and igniter, there are three parts that could be faulty: the igniter, the igniter switch or the igniter control module. Of these, the most likely cause is a bad igniter control module. Occasionally an igniter switch will go bad. An igniter is rarely to blame. Photo 4 shows you how to replace the igniter module. Go to familyhandyman.com and search for "gas range repair" for information on replacing an igniter switch.
II
Clean the igniter and burner holes if the burner won't light. Brush the igniter with a stiff toothbrush to remove gunk. Clean out the burner holes with a needle.
le lent
Replace the igniter control module if none of the igniters spark. Transfer the wires one at a time to the new module so you don't get them mixed up.
BEST
KITCHEN
APPLIANCE
FIXES
61
I
i
I
II
I.
I
I
I
Refrigerator
-
Problem: Fridge or freezer won't cool There are several possible causes 1lI••••••••••••
when a refrigerator doesn't keep your milk cold or your ice cream frozen. Before you attempt more complex repairs, try these simple fixes: • Be sure the fridge is plugged in and getting power. The light should come on when you open the door. Check the setting on the temperature control and adjust it if needed. Be sure. the vents on the back of the freezer compartment aren't blocked by boxes of ice cream or frozen vegetables-the vents have to be clear for cold air to circulate. Vacuum the coils under or behind the fridge. Clogged coils can cause poor cooling. Check to make sure nothing is stuck in the condenser fan and that it spins freely (models with coils on the back won't have a fan). To do this, unplug the fridge and pull it out. Clean the fan blades and spin the fan by hand to see if it's stuck (Photo 5 shows the condenser fan location). Plug in the fridge and make sure the fan runs when the compressor is running. If the fan doesn't run, see Photos 5 and 6, which show how to replace it.
~!I!I
I~
I
COVER
Remove the cover to inspect the evaporator and to access the evaporator fan. The screws may be covered with plastic plugs that you pry out.
Replace the evaporator fan if it's noisy or doesn't spin. First unplug the refrigerator. Then remove the screws that hold the fan to the wall of the freezer.
II
Replace the old fan with a new one. Remove the mounting bracket from the old fan and
switch them from the old fan to the new fan. Reinstall the fan and rep Iace the cover.
FAN OVER
Replace the condenser fan if it's noisy or doesn't run. Depending on your fridge, you may have to remove the fan bracket first, and ·then unscrew the fan from the bracket.
ator,
wires and connect the new fan with wire connectors. Screw the new fan to the bracket and reinstall the fan and bracket in the fridge.
md
If you remove the cover inside the freezer and find the coils completely filled with frost, take everything out of the freezer and fridge, unplug it and let it thaw for 24 to 48 hours. Keep a few towels handy to soak up water that may leak onto the floor. When all the frost is melted away, plug the fridge back in. If it works, the problem may be a defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost thermostat. Replacing these parts isn't difficult, but figuring out which is faulty requires troubleshooting. Call a pro if you suspect a problem with these parts. Normally the condenser fan and compressor, located near the floor on the back of most refrigerators, come on when the thermostat calls for more cooling. If you don't hear the compressor running after the door has been left open for a while, it could mean the condenser fan is stuck or worn out or that the relay or compressor is bad.
BEST
KITCHEN
APPLIANCE
FIXES
i
I
Dishwasher
Problem: Dishes aren't getting clean
II
Remove the spray arm and clean out the holes. This also allows access to the filter for cleaning. Spray arms like the one shown simply snap off. Others require you to unscrew a cap on top.
is running but the dishes aren't getting clean, one of these simple fixes could solve your problem. Start by consulting your manual to be sure you're using the right detergent, loading the dishes correctly and maintaining the right hot water temperature. Then follow Photos 1 - 5 for repair steps. Insufficient water in the dishwasher also can cause poor cleaning. If the float gets stuck in the raised position, the dishwasher won't fill with water (Photo 3). Another likely cause is a clogged inlet screen or faulty inlet valve. Photos 4 and 5 show how to clean the screen or replace the valve. To determine if your dishwasher is getting enough water, start a wash cycle. Open the door when you hear the machine stop filling. The water should reach or come close to the heating coil. If it doesn't, first make sure the float valve is operating freely (Photo 3). If this doesn't solve the problem, check the inlet valve and screen.
64
If your dishwasher
Figure A
Anatomy of a dishwasher
~
il'
SHUTOFF SWITCH (SOME DISHWASHERS ARE CONNECTED BY PLUG AND CORD INSTEAD)
MONEY-SAVING
FIXES
re spray n out the ,0 allows filter for ay arrns hown .ff, Others ) unscrew
_ To clean the filter, remove the filter screen if possible. Otherwise, use a wet/dry vacuum to suck out the debris.
Make sure the float moves up and down freely. If the float on your dishwasher is removable, take the float apart and clean it.
Remove the inlet valve to clean the screen or Yeplace the valve. Unscrew the nut that connects the water line and remove the water line. Remove the screws that connect the valve bracket to the dishwasher frame and lower the valve. Pinch the hose clamp to remove the rubber hose. Unplug the wires.
1:.11 Check to
WATER FIniNG
see if the screen is plugged. Unscrew the water line fitting from the valve. Then unscrew the four screws that connect the valve to the bracket.
dishwasher. Otherwise, close the main water valve. Photo 4 shows how to remove the inlet valve. Yours may look different. Whether you're replacing the valve or simply cleaning the screen, you'll have to unscrew the brass fitting that connects the water line to the valve. Remove the four screws that secure the valve to the bracket to access the filter screen (Photo 5). Reassemble and reinstall the valve in the reverse order. Wrap Teflon tape around the fitting threads before screwing the fitting into the valve.
BEST I<ITCHEN APPLIANCE FIXES
65
II
j,
1
I! I'
m-
ere are five of the best ways to save money on car •maintenance. These are easy jobs that you can do yourself in minutes instead of overpaying at the oilchange joint. Do each one, as needed, throughout the year, and you'll leave about $175 in your wallet.
This sounds complex, but it's not. Pull out your PCV valve every other oil change. In most cases, you'll find the valve on the top of the engine, connected to a vacuum hose. Some late-model cars don't have PCV valves, so don't beat yourself up trying to find it. Slide the vacuum hose off the valve and unscrew the valve. Then perform the world's easiest diagnostic test: Shake it. If it makes a metallic clicking sound, it's good. If it doesn't make noise or sounds mushy, replace it ($4). But don't replace it on appearance alone-all used PCV valves look dirty.
Need help locating your PCV valve? Buy a short subscription to an online factory service manual (oemlstop.com); rates start at less than $10 a day. Nonfactory manuals are cheaper, but they're skimpy on instructions and diagrams for these kinds of repairs.
Told that your engine air filter needs replacing? It may be true. But testing your filter is easy and replacing it is a brainless task-so do it yourself. Replace the filter ($12 to $20) based on its actual condition rather than the manufacturer's recommended service intervals. Checking its condition isn't rocket science. Just pull it out and give it a look-see (inset photo). If it fails the back-light test, replace it. While the filter is out, vacuum out the crud in the air cleaner box.
Remove the air filter and vacuum out any dirt. Then hold it in front of a shop light. If dirt blocks more than 50 percent of the light, replace the filter.
66
MONEY-SAVING
FIXES
~s
Save $20
It's easy to tell when your blades need replacing. Simply press the washer button and see if your blades wipe clean. If they streak, they're toast. The auto parts store will have lots of economy blades, but go with a name brand instead (ANCO, Trico or Bosch). They cost more than economy blades, but their higher-quality rubber wipes better, has better UV protection and lasts longer. Follow the installation instructions on the package. Be sure you have a firm grip on the wiper arm once you remove the old blade. If it gets away from you, it can hit the windshield with enough force to crack it.
Save $60
Some carmakers recommend replacing brake fluid every two years or 24,000 miles. Others don't mention it at all. But it's easy to test your brake fluid. Just dip a test strip into the fluid and compare the color to the chart on the packaging. You can't do a complete brake fluid flush yourself, but you can do the next best thing-a fluid swap. This procedure won't replace all the old fluid with fresh, but you'll introduce enough new fluid to make a difference. Use a baster to suck out the dark brown brake fluid (brake and power steering fluids are incompatible, so use a different baster for each). Squirt it into a recycling bottle. Refill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid as shown. Then drive the vehicle for a week to mix the new fluid with the old. Repeat the procedure several times over the next few weeks until the fluid in the reservoir retains its light honey color. Note: The brake fluid may damage the baster's rubber bulb, so don't suck the fluid all the way into the bulb.
hart rual
-lon-
{ on s.
There aren't any test strips for power steering fluid, so you'll have to rely on the manufacturer's service recommendations or general rule-of-thumb (two years or 24,000 miles). Use the turkey baster method to remove the old power steering fluid. Suck out all the fluid (engine off) as shown. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Start the engine and let it run for aboufLf seconds. Repeat the fluid swap procedure until you've used up the full quart. Note: Never substitute a "universal" power steering fluid for the recommended type, and never add "miracle" additives or stop-leak products. They can clog the fine mesh filter screens in your steering system and cause expensive failures.
5 CASH-SAVING AUTO FIXES
67
ENERGY
COSTS
Energy-saving fact
If you combined all of the air leaks in a typical house-up the chimney, out the dryer vent, under the front door-it would be the equivalent of leaving a window open all day long!
dly
69
I,'
I
door sweep. Caulk the ends of the door, then install the replacement sweep. Some sweeps are tapped into
place and stapled along the door bottom; others are screwed to the side along the door bottom.
the replacement sweep and staple the ends with a couple of lI2-in. staples.
TO CUT
ENERGY
COSTS
Solution 2:
If you don't like the look of caulk on your windows all winter long, cover them with plastic film instead. A $13 kit covers five 3 x 5-ft. windows, The plastic also reduces window condensation and can be used with curtains or blinds. The film is available for the exterior and interior. .Apply double-sided tape (included) to the window casing. Cut the film roughly to size with scissors, leaving a few extra inches on each side. Starting at a top corner, apply the film firmly to the tape around all four sides of the window. Use a hair dryer to remove the wrinkles. When winter is over, take down the plastic and pull the tape off the casing. The tape removes easily without damaging the finish.
xes
'alls and between 4 in., fill ded, use oors and m won't id use a power. the box 9 foam, he box) register
e door to the
I! II
II I
·[ I
I,
m
72
you need to add insulation in your attic, save big by blowing in cellulose insulation yourself. Blowing attic insulation isn't hard, but it's. dusty, sweaty work. To make it easier, enlist a helper and set aside two days: one for attic prep and the second to actually blow the insulation. By the end of the weekend you're going to be sore
SPECIAL SECTION: BEST-EVER WAYS TO CUT ENERGY COSTS
and tired. But saving $1,000 or more will make up for your aching back. The long-term payoff is impressive too. You could see your energy bills go down by as much as 15 to 25 percent depending on your climate and existing levels of insulation.
Pull back the existing insulation and use expanding spray foam and holes where electrical wires snake through, Make sure to seal all the way around the pipe, For gaps 1/4 in, or less, use caulk rather than expanding foam,
to seal any gaps around plumbing pipes, ceiling perforations
Pull the existing insulation away from the roof. Position the new vent chute so the bottom extends 6 in. into the overhang and staple it into place. It's a good idea to use a squeeze stapler instead of a hammer stapler because it's more accurate and there's less chance you'll crumple the chute,
Day one
________________________________________________________
_J
hatch opening, make a 2x12 dam around the hatch perimeter, Then, to really seal the attic access up tight, lay fiberglass batt insulation on the inside of the hatch or door and wrap it up tight like a Christmas present (Photo 3). You can insulate the hatch door while you're inside the attic or slide the door out and do it more comfortably on a tarp outside.
SUPER,INSULATE
YOUR ATTIC
73
,
I
i
I,
II
I
!
iI
Cover the attic hatch with a pillow of fiberglass insulation. You want a nice, big puffy pillow of insulation to stop any air leaks. Cut two layers of R-19 fiberglass batt insulation slightly larger than the hatch and staple duct tape to the hatch edges to secure it in place.
Measure up from the ceiling to mark your desired insulation level. Use a permanent marker to mark the level every few trusses so you know you have even coverage around the entire space.
Have your helper crumble the compressed cellulose as he loads the hopper so it doesn't clog the hose. If the cellulose comes out too fast or too slow, adjust the hopper door. The blower machine is loud, and you and your assistant won't be in visual contact. Communicate with each other using a walkie-talkie or cell phone. You can also cl ick the blower control switch on and off several times to get your helper's attention. 74
SPECIAL SECTION: BEST-EVER WAYS TO CUT ENERGY COSTS
of the attic. Don't move around a lot in the attic with the hose. Work from the middle and do three bays at a time. Push the hose out to the eaves and blow those areas first. Then pull the hose back and use a slow, steady sweeping motion until you reach the desired level. Then pivot in place and blow the opposite side of the attic the same way.
No amount of insulation is going to help if you don't seal your attic properly. For detailed step-by-step information about sealing attic alr leaks, go to familyhandyman.com and type "seal attic air leaks."
Mistake #2: Not getting lnsulatlon out to the edges When you're prepping the attic, use a broom handle or stick to push the existing insulation out to the edges. Then when you blow 'inthe cellulose, make sure you do a
good job of getting it way over to the eaves with the hose.
Mistake #3:
It happens aU the time. You've got to move around slowly and step from joist to joist. If there's no floor, bring up a 12-in.-wide piece of 3/4-in. plywood and lay it across the ceiling joists to use as a platform to work from. And wear rubber-soled shoes so you can feel the joists thmugh the bottoms of your feet.
lation trusses e.
into the hopper while you work the hose up in the attic (Photo 5). The blower should include two 50-ft. hoses that you can connect and snake into the attic. If your hoses have to wind their way through the house to reach a scuttle (the attic access) in a hallway or closet, lay down tarps along the way. It keeps things neater during the process and makes cleanup a lot easier. Connect the hoses with the coupler and then use duct tape over the coupler to secure the connection. The metal clamps can vibrate themselves loose. You don't want them to get disconnected and have cellulose sprayed all around your house.
e center
se.
hose se back esi red ttic the
75
I! I
i
I
II
Turn off power to heating/cooling systems at the main panel. Mark wires with a tab (or tape) and letter that represents the terminal; unscrew them. Remove and discard the old thermostat.
Level the new mounting plate in position and mark the mounting screw holes. Drill 3/16-in. holes, insert drywall anchors and screw the plate to the wall.
at
under $100 Tool Tip: Clamp-in-place straightedge Our favorite tools under $15
80
e mounts and
bels as
me terate.
77
.J'
78
TOOLS
& ACCESSORIES
Best in DIY
Clamp-i n-place straightedge
Tool Tip
"I picked up this special clamping straightedge at a tool sale lS years ago and still find myself reaching for it whenever I want to make a perfectly straight cut with a circular saw," said Jeff Gorton, associate editor. "The bultt-in clamps adjust quickly to plywood or lumberand they're great for cutting off the bottom of doors." Different lengths of straightedges are available, from 24 to 99 in. The 24-in. model costs $39. The BORA Clamp Edge from Affinity Tool. Works Is one brand (borapro.com). "Just slide the back clamp until It's snug against the wood, and then press down the lever to lock the straightedge In place," Jeff said. "The whole process takes seconds and leavE?syou with a securely attached straightedge with no pro-
truding clamps to get In the way. The grlppy rubber clamp feet even let you clamp at angles up to 22.S degrees as a guide for angled cuts." You can find clamping straightedges at rockler.com and amazon.com.
Go..through ..anything
hammer drills
"If you're going to buy a corded drill, get a hammer drill," said Joe Jensen, set builder for The Family Handyman and home improvement contractor. "It does everything a traditional drill does, but the hammering action lets you drill through tough materials faster-without burning up the bit." The drills use a hard, fast pounding action while drilling. When you don't want the hammer feature, simply turn it off and use the drill like a standard one. Hammer drills have dropped in price considerably in recent years. You can now buy one for $60 (the model shown, the Hitachi No. FDV16VB2, costs about $70 at Lowe's and online). "I just used my hammer drill when I was remodeling my basement," Joe said. "The drill easily drove concrete screws into the concrete and drew the plates tight against the floor."
when r cycle. It achine r," said ut this ad with into the e screw s with 23) are irdware
79
II
Double-fast chalkline
Speed chalk lines don't look any different from standard ones. But you'll notice the difference when you rewindthey rewind up to 3-1/2 times faster than standard chalk lines. Look for "fast retrieval" or "high-speed" on the packaging when buying one. Speed chalk lines are available starting at home centers and amazon.com.
80
TOOLS & ACCESSORIES
Handy strapping
Next time you're at a home center or hardware store, spend $6 on a roll of strapping film (aka "shrink wrap"). Use it to bundle and store stuff or to tie down loads. You can even use it as a makeshift clamp for woodworking projects.
$7
at
$10
Odd ..shapegauge
Whenever you need to mark an irregular shape, a contour gauge ($5) is a lifesaver. When you press the gauge against an object, the pins conform to the object's shape. Then you lock the pins in place and transfer the shape to whatever you're cutting. These gauges are sold at home centers.
Grabbe'r for
tight spots
ects.
This flexible magnetic pickup tool ($13) is perfect for reaching into tight spots to retrieve dropped parts. Get the version that keeps the magnet shielded until you need it, then extends when you press the handle (otherwise the magnet sticks to things you don't want it to). Some also have fingers for picking up nonmetallic items. Get one at auto parts stores or amazon. com (search for "flexible magnetic pickup tool").
OUR FAVORITE TOOLS UNDER $15
81
IIII
I
I!
I
I'
he editors at The Family Handyman are passionate about tools. They spend a seemingly endless amount
oftime discussing (and arguing about!) which tools make the cut as an editors' choice. Following are the top picks;
iI
inside the project or fill with special plugs. The Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System includes everything you need-a stepped drill bit, 6-in. square driver, starter screw set, and a starter plug set-all for around $95: A mini kit for drilling one hole at a time costs $22 (woodcraft.com). A few other companies make pocket jigs, but Kreg's is quick and easy to use, and it lets you drill two holes without moving the jig. For projects you can build with a Kreg jig, visit family handyman. com and enter "pocket jig."
TOOLS
& ACCESSORIES
Compact compressors
A few years ago, when we bought a little Senco compressor here at the office, we instantly starting fighting over it. Nobody wanted to drag around our 50-lb. beast anymore. Since then, several other mini compressors have hit the market. Although they're usually recommended for use with brad nailers, we sometimes use them for small framing jobs too. With a big framing smake picks; nailer, you get three to five shots and then you have to wait a few seconds for the compressor to catch up. So if you need a new compressor and you do a lot of brad nailing-and maybe some occasional framing-try a lightweight model. If you want a bigger one later, the compact compressor is a great portable backup. Below are some models you can check out online.
Five featherweights
Bostitch CAP1516
des lare rter kit $22 lies lick rill For jig, ter
Craftsman 15309
DeWalt 055140
Senco PC1010
Do-everything
electrical tester
Al Hildenbrand, master electrician, has several favorite tools, but the one dearest to his heart and the workhorse of his stable is the Greenlee GT-95 electrical tester. It's durable and easy to use. The feature that sold Al was the ability to test for a hot wire without the need for a known ground. You simply hold the tester in your hand and touch one probe to the wire you want to test. Push the test button to see if the wire is hot. The GT-95 also features a GFCI tester, a noncontact voltage tester and a continuity tester in addition to a digital and LED display for reading voltage. The GT-95 costs about $80 online, but it's the only tester you're likely to need. And it'll last a lifetime.
..
M ightymidget
batteries
I've tossed a dozen perfectly good cordless drills because the batteries died and new ones cost as much as a new drill. That's one reason I love new lithium-ion batteries: They have a longer life span-twice as long, ac- , cording to some manufacturers. But the best thing about lithiumion batteries is that they're about half the size and weight of other batteries. That means power-guzzling tools like saws can pack more punch and run longer without being too heavy. And the screwdrivers are small enough to drop in your tool pouch, but powerful enough for just about any job.
EDITORS'
CHOICE:
83
Oscillating tools
There's been an explosion in the number of oscillating tools appearing on tool shelves over the past year; The patent for the tool, held by Fein, has expired. So a bunch of tool companies jumped on the opportunity and came up with their own versions. An oscillating tool is that rare kind of tool that you don't know you need until you get one. And now anyone can afford to pop for one-the new versions cost as little as $40, compared with $310 and I!P for Fein versions. The tool operates very simply. The business end vibrates back and forth like crazy. That's it. But attach different heads like sanders, scrapers, rasps and even shears, and these things can accomplish all types of different tasks.
iI
combo kit). ridgid.com Bosch's Multi-X. $180. boschtools.com Craftsman's Nextec Multi-Tool.
$120 (20-piece
came up that rare 1you get -the new ~310 and The nd forth ach rs, shears, of
_canvastoolbag
Steel and plastic toolboxes aren't always best, especially when you're up on a roof or doing inside trim work. Sometimes canvas rigger's bags (about $25) are a better crib for your tools ..Keep little tools on the outside, big tools in the middle. The canvas bag is lightweight and easy to carry and it won't scratch floors. But know this: You'll wreck the pockets if you haul unsheathed chisels. Search online for "canvas riggers bag." intendpry bar ;t about nmerto :, you'll ny tool :hief. "I roughg small rammer r small
srs,
EDITORS'
CHOICE:
THE TOOLS
WE LOVE
85
11
I i
I
I'
II
you need?
I , ,
It'snota
hammer drill
With a standard driver, you have to get your weight behind the screw and push hard. Otherwise, the bit will "cam out" and chew up the screw head. Not so with an impact driver. The hammer mechanism that produ.ces torque also creates some forward pressure. That means you don't have to push so hard to avoid cam-out. Great for one-handed, stretch-and-drive situations.
86
TOOLS & ACCESSORIES
An impact driver works kind of like a hammer drill and sounds a lot like one. But it's no substitute for a hammer drill. An impact driver's innards are engineered to generate torque, not powerful forward blows.
1em
ned:
river
ret driv-
st about Ie of our sady revers. But ue isn't IS like to nd reach ordless istead,
Easy to handle
You might think that extreme torque puts extreme strain on your arm. Nope. For reasons Isaac Newton could explain, an impact driver actually generates less wrist twist than a standard driver. Don't be fooled by the macho-man feeling you get when you effortlessly sink a big screw. A little princess can do the same thing.
driver duty.
Good for
gearheads, too
They don't have nearly the torque of big impact wrenches, but cordless impact drivers can be a time-saver when you tinker with engines. They're perfect for small engines, where less torque is usually enough. For automotive work, consider an "angle" version, such as the Craftsman 17562. Hitachi, Makita, Ridgid and others also make angle impact drivers.
SPOTLIGHT
ill
works ammer lot like stitute An imrds are erate ful for-
ON IMPACT
DRIVERS
87
II I
\1
I.
i
I
Impactdriver roundup
It wasn't
I! I
I
1
easy, but after weeks of testing, retesting and arguing, we settled on six favorites. The models shown here are widely available at home centers and hardware
stores. If you're willing to do some hunting, you'll fir several other models and manufacturers.
OuroveraU favorite
Milwaukee 2650-22 Cost: $275 (Ouch!) Torque: 1,400 io-Ibs. Weight: 3.5 lbs. Battery: 18V lithium (2) Of our 10 testers, eight gave this one the top rating. In our lag-screw races, it consistently matched or exceeded the others. In addition to raw power, it has all the features we loved: a tool-belt hook, a bright work light and a battery "fuel gauge." Bummer: No onboard bit storage.
Compact bargain
Hitachi WHI0DFL Cost: $125 Torque: 840 in.-Ibs. Weight: 2.zlbs. Battery: 12V lithium (2) You can find a smaller and lighter driver, or more torqu or a lower price. But for a combination of all three I those traits, you can't beat this light, powerful, affordab little gem. Cramp warning: If you have big hands or wear gloves 0 the job, the handle might be too short. Otherwise, it's or of the most comfortable drivers we tested.
!I
Dissenting opinion: The DeWalt DCF826KL is better. It has almost as much torque, but it's lighter, more compact and comfortable.
DeWalt DCF815S2 Cost: $139 Torque: 950 in.-lbs. Weight: 2.3 lbs. Battery: 12V lithium (2) This driver tops our list for 12-volt torque. And although it's taller than most, it's lightweight and comfy. Dissenting opinion: Torque-it's THE reason to have an impact driver. So these 12-volt models just don't make sense. Get an 18-volt.
88
TOOLS
&
RyobiP230 Cost: $80 Torque: 1,200 in.-Ibs. Weight: 4.5 lbs. Battery: 18V NiCad (2) Though not as powerful as most of the other 18-volt models, this driver has plenty of torque for all but the toughest jobs-and a crazy-low price tag. Curmudgeon's note: Don't buy anything with a NiCa battery. Lithium is the only way to go.
ACCESSORIES
you'll find
91 94
Planning Tip: Permits and safety Planning Tip: Build a privacy screen
95
96 98
no
Garden arbor
a NiCad
-----ne-dayisland deck
Create a comfortable retreat anywhere in your yard n:1. ost decks are attached to houses, but there's no rea- treated" decking and screws would lower the cost .UlI son they have to be. Sometimes the best spot to set $900. You may need to special-order composite deckir
up a deck chair and relax is at the other end of the yard, and hidden fasteners if you use the same ones as show tucked into a shady corner of the garden. And if you here, but everything else is stocked at home centers I don't attach the deck to the house, you don't need deep lumberyards. frost footings-which can save hours of backbreaking labor, especially in wooded A deck you can build in a day or rocky areas where footings are difficult The slmpllclty of this deck makes it fast to build. With a helper and all the to dig. materials ready to go first thing in the morning, you can have a completed This deck was designed with simple deck before sundown. If you add a step to your deck and use hidden deck construction in mind. If you can cut fasteners as shown, you might need a few more hours to finish the i.~b. boards and drive screws, you can build it. The only power tools you'll need are a circular saw and a drill. Shown is premium grade, low-maintenance composite decking with hidden fasteners, which brought the total cost to $2,100, but using standard
90
BACKYARD
PROJECTS
Best in DIY
Planning Tip
Permits and safety
If all or part of the deck Is higher than 30 in.
oM the ground, you'll need a building permit and railings. If you Intend to build any kind of structure on top of the deck or attach the deck to the house, you also need a permit. Also, keep the deck at least 4 ft. back from the property line.
Take diagonal measurements and tap one beam forward or back to square the beams. Temporary stretchers hold the beams parallel.
Screw on angle brackets at each joist location instead of toenailing, which can split and weaken the joists and knock the beam out of square.
down the joists. This also makes it easy to place the joists. Attach one alongside each joist location (Photo 3).
91
Figure A
Island deck
Dimensions: 11' 8" square (not including stairs)
iI
Materials list
ITEM
4" x 8" x 12" solid concrete block Class V (5) crushed gravel 4x6 x 10' pressure-treated timbers 2x6 x 12' (12" o.c. joist spacing) 1-1/2" corner angles 7" reinforcing angles (or 2x4 x 11" blocks) 5/4x6 x 12' decking (Trex Brasilia Cayenne) lx8 x 12' matching skirt board Joist hanger nails 1-5/8" deck screws
I
Cutting list
GTY.
6 (min'> 6 bags
2 19
22 25 25 5 2lbs. Sibs. 2lbs. 2lbs. 2 2
D E
F G
H
J I( L M
2" stainless steel trim head screws fasten Master 1Q deck fasteners (fastenmaster.com) lx4 x 10' temporary stretchers (for layout)
P
Q
·l
40
92
BACKYARD
PROJECTS
Install the middle and end joists, then screw on the rim joists; using clamps (or a helper) to hold them in place.
but let them run long over the opposite beam. Trim them to exact length when the deck is almost done so you can avoid ripping the last deck board. Fasten the joists to the angles with deck screws. Screw on both rim joists-you'll have to take the second rim joist back off when the joists are trimmed and then reattach it, but it's needed to hold the joists straight and to hold the outside joists up (Photo 4). The decking will hold the outside joists up when the rim joist is removed later. Set the other joists on the beams and fasten them to the beams and rim joists. Reinforce the outside corners with additional blocking (Photo 5). Finally, mark the center of the joists and run blocking between each pair of joists. Set the blocking 1/2 in. to the side of the center mark, alternating from side to side, so that the blocking doesn't end up in the gap between the deck boards.
Add a step
The deck surface should be no more than 8 in. above the ground where you step up on it. If it's close, just build IIp the ground or add concrete pavers. Otherwise, add a step. To cantilever the stairs, extend the stair stringers underneath four deck joists, then join the floor joists and stair stringers with, reinforcing angles (as shown) or wood 2x4s, which are less expensive (Photo 6). Use a screw first to hold the angles or 2x4 blocks. in place, then finish fastening them with nails, which have greater shear strength. The 5/4 (nominal) decking shown (Trex Brasilia; trex. com) called for a maximum spacing between stair stringers of 9 in. on center, but you can space stringers 16 in. on center if you use solid wood.
For strong connections at the comers, set comer blocking between the last two joists, then nail the rim joist from both directions.
93
II
Attach the deck boards. Decks look best when you use hidden fasteners, but they make installation slower. Trim the deck boards flush with the rim joist when you're done.
ing trim head screws just below the surface at the spacer locatio (see Figure A).
are available-or you can use deck screws, which create lots of holes but save time and money. Start with a full board at one side, aligning it with the edge of the rim joist. Leave the boards long at both ends, then cut them back later all at once so the edges are straight. Use four 1/4-in. spacers between each pair of boards as you fasten them, but check the distance to the rim joist after every four boards and adjust spacing if necessary. At the next to the last board, remove the rim joist and mark and cut the ends off the joists so the last deck board lines up with the edge of the rim joist. Reinstall the rim joist and attach the last boards. Nail 1/4-in. spacers ripped from treated wood to the rim joist every 16 in. so water won't get trapped against the rim joist. Screw on skirt boards with two screws at each spacer (Photo 8). Attach the decking to the steps after the skirt boards are fastened. Finally, finish the steps (Photo 9).
Screw skirt boards to the sides of the steps for a finished lor then measure, cut and attach a riser board to the face of the step
Best in DIY
Planning Tip
Build a privacy screen
If your deck (or patio) leaves you feeling like you're on display, this privacy screen is a handsome solution. Visit familyhandyman.com instructions. Another way to get your prIvacy is to plant . trees. Of course you'll have to wait awhile for the benefits, but the beauty and shade will be worth it. Visit famllyhandyman.com and search "planting trees" for Complete how-to. and search "privacy screen" for complete how-to
94
BACKYARD
PROJECTS
simple tools, including a conduit bender ($30) for tight curves and a hacksaw for cutting the bar to length. You may want to pick up an angle grinder ($50) and a metalcutting blade for quicker rebar cuts. And don't forget to buy a pair of heavy leather gloves. Allow a full day to build your first trellis. Once you've mastered the process, you should be able to build a second one in less than half a day. Rebar itself is relatively inexpensive: A 20-ft. length of 1/2-in. costs about $7 and 3/8-in. about $4. The main problem is getting your 20-ft. lengths home. Rebar is floppy, not stiff. One trick is to buy a 16-ft.-long 2x4, attach it to your roofrack and then lash the rebar to it. (Be sure to attach a red flag to each end of it.) Otherwise, delivery costs vary from $50 to more than $100.
ONE-DAY
ISLAND
DECK;
SIMPLE
GARDEN
ARCHWAY
95
'I
It
II,
Figure A
I
I I
Garden archway
II
Materia,ls list
Two liZ-in. x ZO-ft. lengths of rebar (for arches) One liZ-in. x IO-ft. length of rebar (for stakes) Two pIS-in. x ZO~ft. lengths of rebar (for circles) IS-gauge copper wire Plastic garage door stop molding or other stiff but bendable material Conduit bender Cable ties Chalk bottle
2'
Best in DIY
Tool Tip
v i/ Hacksaw blade installation
Install the blade so the teeth face forward. Hacksaws are designed so the blade will cut when it's pushed (the forward stroke)
- _ _.....
....
.__
- ~-.~
"
.....---/
'""'" ••
-'"'...
-....
......_
--.... -
..............
...
....
-·"o
photo). Some blades have an arrow that shows the correct Installation (the arrow points toward the handle). Install the blade so it's tight in the saw and won't bend. When you do a lot of cutting, the blade will heat up and expand,
You/II need rebar in two sizes: 1/2 in. for the arches and 3/8 in. for the circles.
The 3-ft. radius makes an arch that will span 6 ft. ' can make it larger or slightly smaller if you want. bending liZ-in. rebar into a z-ft. radius is difficult. Rebar may kink when you bend it, so insert a cushio 9-ft. length of plastic garage door stop molding; $1 home centers) between the rebar and the stakes to sol the bend (Photo 4). You can use some other firm but f ible item, like vinyl siding or a strip of flexible hardbc to cushion the rebar as well. Photo 4 shows how to bend the arches. Hold the rs
of
f rebar
nd-
Cut 112-in. rebar into ten IO-in. stakes. Saw about two-thirds of the way through with a hacksaw, then snap off the stake.
Drive a stake and tie a string to it. Mark a 3-ft.-radius the lawn using the string to guide the chalk bottle.
arc on
Space nine stakes evenly around the semicircle, and drive them down about 5 in. Mark the middle stake with a string.
Lay plastic molding around the stakes. With a helper, center the rebar on the middle stake and push the ends around the semicircle.
xpand,
at the ends while you bend it to keep the arch smooth. Overbend it slightly; the ends will spring back a bit when you release them. Don't worry about that; the arches will form the correct radius when you set them in the ground.
circles aren't perfect. Minor imperfections will be minimized when you wire them to the arches, and hidden when your greenery grows.
6 ft. You
want. But cult. a cushion (a ding; $8 at .es to soften m but flex~hardboard ld the rebar
Link the arches together with circles bent from the 3/8in. rebar. Cut the rebar into 4-ft. lengths and bend them with a l/2-in. conduit bender [avai lab le in the electrical department of any home center or hardware store). Work on a solid surface and simply fit one end of the rebar into the lip of the bender. Then form the curve by pulling the handle and pressing down on the tool with your foot (Photo 5). Shift the bender and continue the bend until you have a complete circle. The circle will have a l2-in. diameter. Cut off the extra robar, Don't worry if the
97
Position the anchor holes for the trellis 6 ft. apart and 12 in. between arches. Drive in stakes to start the holes, then pull them out.
I
I I
I
Position the trellis and push the ends 18 in. deep into the ground. Mark the depth with masking tape. Position the circles between the arches with cable ties. Then tightly bind the circles to the arches with 2-ft. lengths of copper wire. Wire down as much of the side of the circle as you can to make the circle stable.
II
II
Then add the 3/8-in. rebar circles. Position the first circle about 2 ft. up from the bottom of your arch. Any lower and you may be inviting little feet to use the trellis as a makeshift ladder. Use cable ties to temporarily secure the circles in place, with the cut ends against one arch (Photo 8). Later you'll cover these sharp edges with the wire wrap. Space the remaining circles evenly around the arch. They'll be about 6 in. apart. The cable ties allow you to easily reposition the circles for the best appearance before you wire them into place. To bind the circles, simply wrap the copper wire around the arch/circle joint. There is no special technique here. About 2 ft. of 18-gauge solid copper wire will do. Just keep the binding tight and extend it about 2 in. along the joint for good stiffness. Finally, tap the wire ends down flat to the rebar with a hammer. Once you attach the circles to the arches, your trellis is ready to shepherd creeping vines upward, adding height and dimension to your outdoor space.
98
BACI<YARD PROJECTS
Best in DIY
I
Installation Tip