Parttern layout A well-sewn garment starts at the cutting table.

Laying out your pattern on the fabric to prepare for cutting is an important step that must be done carefully and accurately for great-looking results. Here are some tips on layout and some ideas on pinning or using weights to anchor your pattern pieces in place. Pattern preliminaries Be sure you have all the necessary pattern pieces. Most instruction sheets list pieces by letter or number next to the layout diagrams. Make any changes or fitting alterations to the pattern. If you significantly alter a garment's length, you may need extra yardage to make sure you have a workable layout. Press the pattern pieces with a dry iron set to a low-temperature so that they're easier to work with. Preshrink your fabric if necessary, and make sure the grain is straight. Do this by tearing across the grain at the ends of your fabric piece (if it's firmly woven), pulling a thread across the width of the fabric at the ends, or cutting along a dominant line in the pattern or weave. Fold lengthwise, matching selvages, to see whether the ends now match. If they don't and the fabric needs to be straightened, gently pull on the fabric's length from opposite corners. Spread out fabric carefully In preparation for cutting, fabric is usually folded. The instruction sheet gives alternatives for folding that are determined by the fabric's width, the garment's size, and the size of the pattern pieces. A crosswise layout is often needed for wide pieces, and sometimes a layout shows a double fold, in which both selvages are brought to the center (see the drawings below). In all cases, fold fabric right sides out to view designs that must be centered or matched and when cutting pile fabrics like velvet or corduroy, because there's less sliding. Choose a layout from the appropriate instruction sheet, or invent your own. When working with a plaid fabric, lay out your pattern pieces on a single thickness for easier matching, regardless of suggested layout. When laying out soft sheers and slippery fabrics, tightly cover your cutting surface with a muslin-like fabric to help prevent sliding, and use a single-thickness layout. Whether you fold or cut singly, always keep the entire length of fabric on top of the cutting surface while pinning and cutting to prevent distortion or stretching caused by the weight of the fabric hanging over the table's edge. For large fabric pieces, fold or roll up the end that's not being cut, and unroll as your layout progresses. Be sure that all of your pattern pieces fit on your fabric before you begin cutting. Choose a cutting layout Pattern instructions provide layout diagrams for various fabric widths. Find the best layout in the instructions for your pattern, size, and fabric width.

With-nap layout, lengthwise fold A with-nap layout has all pattern pieces placed in the same direction, so any designs or nap on the fabric will be consistently positioned on the garment.

Without-nap layout, crosswise fold In a without-nap layout, the pattern pieces can be placed in opposing directions.

Lengthwise double fold This layout is used when cutting two pieces that fit side by side on the fabric, but need to be placed on the fold for cutting.

Grainline and layout A grainline mark on a pattern piece is the long straight line with arrows at each end that shows how to position the piece accurately on the fabric's grain. Pin one of the arrows in place, and measure from it to the fabric's selvage. Then measure and adjust the other arrow so that it's the same distance from the selvage. The phrase with-nap on a layout sheet indicates that all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric going in the same direction, top to bottom. Use a with-nap layout for pile fabrics, like velvet and corduroy, and for satin and fabrics with a definite one-way design. A without-nap layout is used when pattern pieces can be laid in both directions. When your pattern pieces are properly aligned on the fabric, (see Anchor the pattern to the fabric) anchor them with pins, as most sewers do, or use weights, like Weight Mates (available from Clotilde orJoanne's Notions ). Then get out your scissors. You're ready to cut. Anchor the pattern to the fabric

Choose pins suitable to fabric; place them perpendicular to cutting lines and pointed into corners. To keep pattern and fabric flat, catch as little of each as possible.

Weights are a fast, easy way to anchor a pattern. You can use weights designed for this purpose, or raid your cupboard for soup cans or something smooth and heavy enough to hold your pattern in place.

Pattern

In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is an original garment from which other garments of a similar style are copied. It can also refer to the paper or cardboard templates from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling (sometimes called paper patterns). Patternmaking, pattern making or pattern cutting is the art of designing patterns. A custom dressmaker frequently employs one of three pattern creation methods. The flat-pattern method begins with the creation of a sloper or block, a basic pattern for a fitted, jewel-neckbodice and narrow skirt, made to the wearer's measurements. The sloper is usually made of lightweight cardboard or tagboard, without seam allowances or style details. Once the shape of the sloper has been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toiles (UK) or muslins (US), the final sloper can be used in turn to create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so on. Although it is also used for womenswear, the drafting method is more commonly employed in menswear and involves drafting a pattern directly onto pattern paper using a variety of straightedges and curves. Since menswear rarely involves draping, pattern-making is the primary preparation for creating a cut-and-sew woven garment. The initial measurements and adjustments are created on paper as a draft. More paper is placed over top of the draft and traced off with seam allowance added to these pieces, which will then be cut out and used to cut out actual fabric for sewing. If this draft will be frequently used, a sloper is created to speed up the production time. A pattern maker would use various tools such as a notcher, drill and awl to mark the pattern in places. The pattern draping method is used for more elaborate and unique designs that are hard to obtain through the flat pattern method. This is because it is nearly impossible to account for the way a fabric will drape or hang on the body without an actual 3-dimensional test run. It involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself. Pattern grading Pattern grading is an essential part of pattern making. It decides how patterns increase or decrease sizes. According to countries, pattern grading includes USA's, EUR's, UK's, and CHN's. Generally, pattern grading adjusts for people of different ages and genders. The fabric type also influences the pattern grading standards. [1] And marker makings are the actual full size print out of how the styles are cut on the fabric. The cost of pattern grading is incomplete without considering marker making.[2] Patterns for home sewing

Home sewing patterns are generally printed on tissue paper and sold in packets containing sewing instructions and suggestions for fabric and trim. Modern patterns are available in a wide range of prices, sizes, styles, and sewing skill levels, to meet the needs of consumers. Home sewing patterns are graded, that is, redrawn to fit larger and smaller sizes than the original design. Ebenezer Butterick invented the commercially produced graded home sewing pattern in 1863 (based on grading systems used by Victorian tailors), originally selling hand-drawn patterns for men's and boys' clothing. In 1866, Butterick added patterns for women's clothing, which remains the heart of the home sewing pattern market today.

There are some applications today that enable a home sewer to customize a computerized pattern to fit her body measurements and or body shape. The 3D technology enables the home sewer to see a virtual simulation of the final garment as it will appear on her. This reduces the Time-to-Market as well as the number of muslins/test garments that are needed. A variation on the theme was evolved by iconic British brand Clothkits. Clothkits devised ingenious cut and sew clothing kits for home sewing that avoided the need for paper patterns. Rather than using conventional techniques, Clothkits pre-printed fabric with both quirky designs and the pattern lines, to make dressmaking for the novice easier. Pattern drafting is most often associated with apparel. It is a form of drafting used to produce, through a series of stages, a graded paper pattern for sewing. Using body measurements, apattern maker converts individual specifics into a series of straight lines and curves ontemplate paper known as oak tag. During subsequent stages, those lines and curves determine how the garment is broken down into sections, cut and tested for fit, and ultimately converted to a reusable pattern. Specific methods and stages of pattern drafting vary from pattern maker to pattern maker, depending on each professional's chosen approach, any software used, and if the pattern is intended for eventual mass production. A typical pattern drafter starts with a sketch, drawing, or photographic image of a particular article of clothing. From there, the drafter measures a form or an individual person to facilitate breaking the garment into sections. Trained pattern makers create an initial template, known as a block or slope, by first drawing straight lines relevant to specific body measurements and then shaping the template using curved lines and further measurements. Fabric is cut from the block to form a mock-up. Mock-ups, also known as muslins in the United States or toiles in Europe, are created from these test pieces and allow for perfecting the pattern template. Once a pattern template is completed, the grading process begins. Grading involves transferring the perfected pattern template to thin pattern paper, adding a series of lines to denote smaller and larger sizes. For mass produced patterns, such as those made by the largest pattern companies, pattern modifications are also included on paper patterns. Such modifications allow for customized features such as crew or turtle necks, long or short sleeves, shorts or pants, long or short skirts, and other options. Colleges and universities that offer fashion industry training typically offer pattern drafting as an advanced sewing and design course. Student pattern drafters are taught the initial concepts ofdrafting patterns through hand drafting. As studies progress, computerized pattern draftingapplications are incorporated to help students learn how industrial or mass-produced patterns are created. Home and hobby sewers learn hand pattern-drafting techniques from workshops, blogs, and other sewers, although computerized pattern drafting software and tutorials are also available. Before the advent of computers, all pattern drafting was done by hand. Today, pattern draftingsoftware helps pattern makers in both industrial applications and in the home sewing industry through automating computations and providing 3-D computer models. Unlike traditional handpattern drafting, computerized programs allow users to input raw measurements, create blocks, and test muslins in a virtual environment before printing and cutting actual patterntemplates. For many sewing professionals, tactile and creative involvement with a particular garment is not as satisfying when computerized programs are used, thus helping to perpetuate the popularity of hand pattern drafting as part of the creative process.

Pattern making technique Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understandingof garment construction. For successful dress designing pattermaking forms the fundamental step. This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components such as cloth, hemming, fusibles etc. which have to be cut for completing a specific garment.

There are three methods of preparing patterns: 1. Drafting 2. Draping 3. Bought or commercial pattern Methods of pattern making Drafting Is a two dimensional basic method of preparing a paper pattern. The pattern is prepared on brown paper using personal measurements of the wearer. The garment prepared by this method fits exactly to the satisfaction of the wearer. It is economical to draft one's own pattern. Also changes in style can be made adopting the basic pattern. This type of pattern can be constructed by drafting manually or produced by a computer which has been programmed to construct basic patterns according to given measurements and proportions. Draping Draping can be treated as one involving a detailed survey and study of the figure to build up a reliable fitting experience. Draping originally was called modelling. This was the original method of constructing garment patterns and is still widely used in the clothingdesign houses in Paris Draping is a free approach and is always to a certain extent experimental and cannot be described as a precise technique. Modelling is done in a fitting room on a dressform with a stand. Dressforms vary in size. Generally an average sized dress form of bust 88 cms or 92 cms is selected for this purpose. The designer works from a sketch or a mental picture and gives a 3-dimension form to an idea of a garment. The wrong side of the fabric is draped on the dressform or a figure. The effect of the fabric as it flows and drapes is readily visible on the dress form. Muslin cloth is used for draping. As the fabric is draped on the dress form pin, and mark the stitching line with a pencil. The muslin pattern which is the end product of draping is removed from the stand and each component is copied on to the paper pattern and necessary allowances are then added to give the design effect as planned by the designer. Bought or Commercial Patterns These patterns provide fashions in current trend designed to fit certain sizes. It is available in tissue paper. These patterns indicate neck sizes for garments such as shirts, chest or bust measurements for children and women; waist, hip and length measurements for pants and skirts. Even to those with the ability and desire to design their own clothing, a commercial pattern makes a good starting point. These patterns explain the steps in using the pattern and are mostly used by dress manufacturing companies. It also gives information on suitable fabrics, quantity of material required, pattern layouts etc. Most figures differ considerably from the average. Uses of Paper Patterns: Paper patterns are useful not only to the beginner but also to the expert as there is no risk of the material being wrongly cut. It is particularly useful to the beginner as it is a better method of learning than cutting the material directly. Paper patterns can be preserved and used whenever required and is therefore time and labour saving.

Adjustment in paper patterns can be done to ensure perfect fitting. By using the basic paper pattern it is possible to bring changes in the design. For example the basic sleeve can be adopted to puff or bell sleeve. The use of paper pattern will enable one to cut a garment with a minimum amount of fabric because it is possible for the dress designer to try out the placement of pattern pieces in an economical way.

Contents of Paper Patterns Margin: Extra safety margins are cut beyand the actual cutting line to make adjustments while stitching. Margins are generally allowed on upholstry items such as sofa slip covers. Cutting line: This is the actual line on which garments are cut. Stitching line: Paper pattern shows the exact stitching line so that the person stitching the garment will identify where exactly the actual stitching has to be done. Fold line: When there are two sides to a pattern such as back & front side then the fold line on the pattern has to be clearly indicated marking it as Fold Line. Grain line: Every pattern piece has an arrow indicating the grainline - whether the fabric has to be cut on straight or cross grain, Collars, cuffs and other trimmings are cut on the cross grain to give a better finish to the garment. Construction details: Tucks, darts, button holes, centre front, centre back, pocket markings, buttons, style features of the garment are all shown on the paper pattern' Graceful curves and shapes wherever required on the paper pattern are also clearly indicated. Pattern size and particulars like front, back, sleeve, collar, cuff etc are shown. If necessary the pattern can also suggest and explain the steps in preparing the garment like marking, cutting and stitching the garment. This is generally done in a commercial pattern to enable the sewer to use the pattern correctly.

Pattern Making Tools

In this How To, we explain the uses for basic sewing supplies and pattern making tools. As with any craft, having the proper tools makes a world of difference in the ease of your work as well as the quality of your end result.

Your scissors are some of your most important tools, and you should use a sharp pair that fit nicely in your hands. Try many different pairs before choosing one; think of it like buying a pair of shoes. Most scissors can be sharpened, so if you decide to spend a lot of money, they can last you a very long time. Some people prefer to use the less expensive scissors, they are lighter and may be easier for some, although these need to be replaced more often. The two scissors on the left are basic all-purpose scissors. The two in the center are basic dressmaking scissors. The big ones on the far right are for cutting oak tag when making patterns, and to the right are pinking sheers, which cut in a zig-zag, which is used to keep unfinished raw edges from unraveling.

Snippers, used to snip threads. Using a snipper to cut excess thread is much easier than using a scissor: there is less action for your hand to do. Instead of putting your fingers through the scissor handles, just pick up your snippers, give a squeeze, and Wah-la! I always keep a pair sitting with me at the machine. You can also use them for marking notches on your fabric.

A seam ripper, another tool you mustnt go without. As everyone makes mistakes, everyone should have a seam ripper. Seam rippers are basically all the same, but the size of the curved blade and the handle may differ. When using a ripper, work from the bobbin thread side of the seam.

Machine needles. There are many different shapes and sizes of machine sewing needles. <a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/614">This How To</a> explains the different sizes of machine needles. Always check that you are using the right correct needle for the job.

Hand sewing needles for hand sewing, putting on buttons, tacking down appliqus, embroidery, beading and minor repairs. On the left is a needle threader, handy if you have a hard time getting the thread through the eye of the needle. On the right is a thimble: if you are handsewing something heavy, like denim or leather, a thimble is handy for pushing the thread through the material.

Like needles, there are many different types of thread. Your thread must correspond to both the needle size and fabric you are sewing with.

Curves. Hip curve, on top, is used for drawing curved hems, hips, and other slightly curved areas. French curves are used in pattern making for drawing armholes, necklines, and other small, severe curves.

Tracing wheel, tracing paper, colored and white chalk wheels, and water soluble marker. The tracing wheel and paper are used in pattern making for marking on muslin and paper. The chalk and water soluble markers are for temporarily marking fabric: for instance, transferring pattern markings, cutting bias, and marking hem lines. When using light colored and/or expensive fabrics, be sure to test that the markings completely come out of the fabric.

Tape measure, a must for fittings, pattern making, sewing, and draping.

Manila Paper Used by some in fashion schools and in the fashion industry to place finalized clothing patterns on. Marking Paper Also called dotted paper or alphanumeric, is used to make patterns. Kraft Paper Tissue Paper Plotter Paper Bond Paper Notcher Awl Screw Punch Wiss Scissors Mundial Scissors Gold Seal Scissors Manila Paper Marking Paper Kraft Paper Etc..

References *Brockman, Helen L. (1965), ''The Theory of Fashion Design'', Wiley *Aldrich, Winifred (1985), ''Metric pattern cutting'', 4th ed, London: Bell and Hyman, ISBN 1-4051-0278-0