AMERICA

VIPER RXL-50/90
Service Manual

Viper RXL Rev #1.0.0

01/01/2002

Viper
RXL-90 & RXL-50

GENERAL INFORMATION

E-Ton Viper
TABLE of CONTENTS
Chapter 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. Description INFORMATION MAINTENANCE ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ENGINE FUEL SYSTEM ENGINE LUBRICATION AND COOLING ENGINE COMBUSTION SYSTEM TRANSMISSION FRONT WHEEL AND STEERING REAR WHEELS, HYDRAULIC BRAKE and DRIVE CHAIN BODY PANELS, FENDERS & EXHAUST ELETRICAL SYSTEMS Eletrical Diagram TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART Page 4 9 17 18 21 22 26 31 40 46 53 54

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1.

INFORMATION

1.1 SAFETY
1. Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain condition. Do not smoke or allow sparks or flames in your work area. 2. Never run the engine in a closed area. The exhaust contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas that may cause loss of consciousness and lead to death. 3. The battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. Protect your eyes, skin and clothing. If you contact it, flush thoroughly with water and call a doctor if you get the electrolyte in your eyes.

1.2 NOTES
All information, illustrations, directions and specifications included in this publication are base on the latest product information available at the time of approval for printing. E-TON Dynamic Technology Industry Co., Ltd. reserves the right to make changes at any time without notice and without incurring any obligation whatever. No part of this publication may be reproduced without express written permission of E-TON Dynamic Technology Co., Ltd.

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1.3 SPECIFICATIONS

VIPER RXL-50

ENGINE SPEC Engine Type Forced Air-cooled 2-stroke Displacement 49.3 c.c. Compression Ratio 6.8:1 Oil tank capacity 1.0 Liter Max. Torque, Nm/rpm 5.4 / 6000 500 Max. Power, Ps/rpm 5.2 / 7000 500 Ignition C.D.I. Starting Electric/Kick starter Lubrication Auto oil injection Transmission C.V.T. V-belt CHASSIS Overall Length 1440 mm Overall Width 830 mm Overall High 860 mm Seat height 630 mm Min. ground 130 mm Wheelbase 950 mm Dry weight 85 kg Fuel Tank capacity 4.5 Liter SUSPENSION Front A-Arm / Dual Shocks Rear Swing Arm / Adjustable Shock BRAKE Front Dual Drum Rear Hydraulic Disk TIRE Front 16*8-7 Rear 16*8-7 BODY COLOR Color Red/Yellow/Blue
Specifications subject to change without notice.

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1.3 SPECIFICATIONS

VIPER RXL-90

ENGINE SPEC Engine Type Forced Air-cooled 2-stroke Displacement 82.5 c.c. Compression Ratio 5.8:1 Oil tank capacity 1.0 Liter Max. Torque, Nm/rpm 7.4 / 6000 500 Max. Power, Ps/rpm 7.0 / 7000 500 Ignition C.D.I. Starting Electric/Kick starter Lubrication Auto oil injection Transmission C.V.T. V-belt CHASSIS Overall Length 1480 mm Overall Width 830 mm Overall High 900 mm Seat height 660 mm Min. ground 160 mm Wheelbase 950 mm Dry weight 87 kg Fuel Tank capacity 4.5 Liter SUSPENSION Front A-Arm / Dual Shocks Rear Swing Arm / Adjustable Shock BRAKE Front Dual Drum Rear Hydraulic Disk TIRE Front 18*7-8 Rear 18*9-8 BODY COLOR Color Red/Yellow/Blue
Specifications subject to change without notice.

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1.4 SERIAL NUMBER

The Vehicle Identification Number, (VIN) is stamped on a plate attached to the front of the frame. The Engine serial number is stamped on the left side of the crankcase.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Engine Serial Number

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1.5 TORQUE VALUES

ENGINE
Cylinder head nut Spark plug Cylinder head bolt Alternator bolt 28-30 N.m (20.7-22.1 lbf.ft) 12-19 N.m ( 8.9-14.0 lbf.ft) 20-30 N.m (14.8-22.1 lbf.ft) 8-12 N.m ( 5.9- 8.9 lbf.ft)

FRAME
Handlebar upper holder bolt Steering shaft nut Steering shaft bushing holder nut Wheel rim bolt Tie rod lock nut King pin nut Handlebar lower holder nut Front wheel bolt Front axle nut Front brake arm nut Rear brake arm nut Rear axle nut Rear wheel bolt Exhaust muffler mounting bolt Engine hanger bolt 24-30 N.m (17.7-22.1 lbf.ft) 50-60 N.m (36.9-44.3 lbf.ft) 24-30 N.m (17.7-22.1 lbf.ft) 18-25 N.m (13.3-18.4 lbf.ft) 35-43 N.m (25.8-31.7 lbf.ft) 30-40 N.m (22.1-29.5 lbf.ft) 40-48 N.m (29.5-35.4 lbf.ft) 24-30 N.m (17.7-22.1 lbf.ft) 55-65 N.m (40.6-47.9 lbf.ft) 4-7 N.m ( 3.0- 5.2 lbf.ft) 7-12 N.m ( 5.2- 8.9 lbf.ft) 60-80 N.m (44.3-59.0 lbf.ft) 24-30 N.m (17.7-22.1 lbf.ft) 30-35 N.m (22.1-25.8 lbf.ft) 24-30 N.m (17.7-22.1 lbf.ft)

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2. MAINTENANCE
2.1 MAINTENANCE DATA 2.2 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 2.3 FUEL TUBE 2.4 THROTTLE OPERATION 2.5 THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT 2.6 AIR CLEANER 2.7 SPARK PLUG 2.8 IDLE SPEED 2.9 DRIVE CHAIN 2.10 BRAKE SYSTEM 2.11 WHEELS AND TIRES 2.12 STEERING SYSTEM 2.13 TOE-IN 2.14 GEAR OIL
2.1 MAINTENANCE DATA & SPECIFICATION SPARK PLUG:
SPARK PLUG GAP: RECOMMENDED SPARK PLUGS: THROTTLE LEVER FREE PLAY: IDLE SPEED: BRAKE LEVER FREE PLAY: DRIVE CHAIN SLACK: FRONT/REAR TIRE SIZE: FRONT/REAR TIRE PRESSURE: TOE-IN: 0.6-0.7 mm NGK BPR7HS 5-10 mm 1800100 rpm 15-25 mm 10-25 mm 16X8-7/ 19X7-8 2.2 0.3 psi (0.15 kgf/cm2) 510 mm

TORQUE VALUES
SPARK PLUG TIE-ROD LOCK NUT 12-19 N.m 35-43 N.m

LUBRICANTS
ENGINE OIL GEAR LUBRICATION OIL Page 9 JASO FC Grade or same degree oil SAE 40

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2.2 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

The maintenance intervals in the follow table is based upon average riding, conditions. Riding in unusually dusty areas, requires more frequent servicing. INITIAL
Service (First Week) REGULAR Service Every 30 Days YEARLY Service (Once a Year)

FUEL LINE THROTTLE OPERATION AIR CLEANER SPARK PLUG CARBURETOR IDLE SPEED DRIVE CHAIN BRAKE SHOE WEAR BRAKE SYSTEM NUT, BOLT, FASTENER WHEEL STEERING SYSTEM SUSPENSION SYSTEM C.V.T. AIR FILTER GEAR OIL Note I: C: L: R:

I I I C I I I,L I I I I I I I I I C R

I I,L

Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace as needed Clean Lubricate Replace

2.3 FUEL LINES, FILTER & PETCOCK

Inspect the fuel lines for deterioration, damage or leakage and replace as needed. Inspect fuel filter for free fuel flow. If flow is impeded replace the filter. NOTE: (E-ton recommends replacement with a stone type filter for abnormal riding conditions.) Inspect fuel petcock operations. If fuel flow through petcock while in the closed position the petcock should be replaced. If fuel flow is impeded while the petcock is in the open position the petcock should be replaced. Inspect the connects of the fuel lines and insure the clips ar e properly affixed. Page 10

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2.4 THROTTLE OPERATION

Inspect for smooth operation of the throttle lever. Insure the lever can reach the full open position against the stop and that it automatically returns to the full closed position. Preform this test with handle bars turn to all steering positions. Inspect the throttle cable for signs of deterioration, damage or kinking, replace if necessary. Check the throttle levers free play. The excepted tolerance of 5-10 mm at the tip of the throttle lever should not be exceeded. Disconnect the throttle cable at the upper end. Lubricate the cable with commercial lubricant to prevent premature wear.

2.5 THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT

Slide the rubber cap of the adjuster off the throttle housing. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the free play of the throttle lever by turning the adjuster on the throttle housing. Inspect the free play of the throttle lever. The excepted tolerance of 5-10 mm at the tip of the throttle lever should not be exceeded.

2.6 AIR CLEANER

Unscrew the air cleaner cover screws. Remove the filter element from the air cleaner case. Wash the element in non-flammable solvent, squeeze out the solvent thoroughly. Let it dry. Soak the filter element in gear oil and squeeze out the excess oil. Install the element into air cleaner as it was at the factory. Page 11

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2.7 SPARK PLUG

The spark plug is located at the front of the engine.Disconnect the spark plug cap and unscrew the spark plug. Check the spark plug electrodes for wear or excess fouling. Replace spark plug if the electrodes are excessively fouled, burnt or show signs of pitting NOTE: E-ton dose not recommends clean a plug, replacing the plug is recommended. Inspect the plugs insulator for cracks or chips. Replace the plug if either of these conditions are found. The spark plug gap tolerance is 0.6-0.7mm. Insure the sealing washer is in place before installing the plug. Thread the spark plug in by hand to prevent crossthreading. Tighten the spark plug with 12-19 N.m of torque. Recommended Spark Plug NGK BPR7HS

2.8 IDLE SPEED INSPECTION

Connect a dwell-tach meter to the engine. Warm up the engine for about 10 minutes to insure the electric choke has disengaged and the engine has reached normal operating temperatures. Turn the idle-speed adjust screw on the carburetor to obtain the idle speed. "Turning (clockwise) will raise the idle speed. "Turning (counter clockwise) will lower the idle. IDLE SPEED: 1800100 rpm

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2.9 DRIVE CHAIN

Inspect the chain for damaged links and rollers. Replace if any damage is found. NOTE: E-ton does not recommend replacing links. Replacing the entire chain is a better choice. Inspect the chains slack, the standard is 10-25mm.

To adjust the chains slack, Loose the 4 locking bolts to allow the free movement of the rear axle. Adjust the drive chains slack by turn the adjusting nuts until the correct slack has been attained. Tighten the four locking bolts to maintain the axles position.

Chain adjuster Bolt When the drive chain becomes very dirty, it should be removed ,cleaned and lubricated using a commercial available chain lubricant. Clean the drive chain by soaking and agitating it in kerosene and wipe it dry. Inspect the drive chain for possible wear or damage. Replace the chain, if it is worn excessively or has damaged links or rollers.

Inspect the sprocket teeth, if they show excessive wear, broken teeth or other damage, replace the sprocket.

Inspect the chain-tension roller. (Rubber) tube around swing-arm pivot member. Replace as needed.

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2.10 FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM

Inspect the front brake lever for excessive wear or other damage. Insure the lever moves freely from the fully engaged to the fully disengaged positions with the handle bars in all steering positions. Replace or repair as needed. Inspect the brake cables for wear,kinking or fraying. Insure the cables move freely from the fully engaged to the fully disengaged position with the handle bars in all steering positions. Replace any cable that shows signs of wear, fraying or other damage. Lubricate cables to reduce premature wear and insure free movement of the cable. Use a commercially available cable lubricant. Measure the free play of the brake lever at the end of the brake lever. The excepted tolerance is 15-25 mm. Adjust the cables free play by loosening the locking ring and turning the adjuster collar on the cable. retighten the locking ring when the correct free play is obtained.

2.10 REAR HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE

Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir . The reservoir should be half full of fluid. To add add brake fluid to the reservoir , remove the two cover screws and the cover. Fill the reservoir to the half full mark and replace the cover and screws. NOTE: Repeated low fluid level indicates a leak. Inspect the brake lines for leaks,corrosion or wear. Replace as needed. Inspect the brake pads for excessive or uneven wear. Replace as needed. NOTE: Uneven wear of the brake pads may indicate a problem with the brake calipers. See Chapter 13.

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2.11 WHEELS AND TIRES

Inspect the tire surfaces for cuts, nails or other sharp objects. Check for uneven or excessive wear. Check the tire surfaces and pressure at low temperature, before riding the unit. The standard of tire pressure is 2.20.3psi ( 015 kgf/cm2 )

2.12 STEERING SYSTEM

Check the free play of the steering shaft with the front wheels turned straight ahead.When there is excessive play, inspect the tie-rod, kingpin bushing and ball joint. Replace worn or damage ball joints, bushing and tie rods as needed.

2.13 TOE-IN
With the vehicle on level ground and the front wheels facing straight ahead, mark the centers of the tires to indicate the axle center height. Measure the distance between the marks. Carefully move the vehicle back, until the tire have been rotated 180 , so the marks on the tires are aligned with the axle center height. Measure the distance between the marks. Calculate the difference between the front and rear measurements. This is the Toe-in value. The excepted Toe-in tolerance is: 510mm If the toe-in is out of standard, adjust it by changing the length of the tie-rods equally. Loosen the locking nuts and turn the tie-rod while holding the ball joint. Tighten the lock nuts. Torque: 35-43 N.m NOTE: Remember to adjust both tie-rod equally. Replace any Tie-rod that show signs of being bent. Do Not attempt to straighten a bent Tie-rod. Page 15

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2.14 GEAR OIL

The ATV unit's gear oil needs to be changed yearly. There is a gear oil release bolt at the rear of engine. Unscrew this release bolt and can let the dirty oil flow out. The re-add oil hole is on the engine case beside gearbox. The fill & drain hole plug is located at the rear of the engine/transmission assembly. Remove both the filler hole plug and drain plug to drain the gear oil. Drain the gear oil an check for any signs of water. NOTE:Water in the gear oil indicates a leaking seal. replace the leaking seal to prevent a costly failure of the engine/transmission assembly. Re-install and tighten the drain plug and refill the gear box with the appropriate quantity of the required lubricant. Re-install and tighten the filler hole plug.

RXL-50 Gear oil requirements: SAE #90 -- 0.1L / 0.11Qt - 100cc RXL-90 Gear oil requirements: SAE #90 -- 0.1L / 0.11Qt - 100cc

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3. Engine Removal & Installation

The engine should ONLY BE REMOVED in the case of necessary repair of the upper and lower engine components or Transmission assembly.

3.1 ENGINE REMOVAL

Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Remove the seat and rear fender. (see Chapter 10 ) Remove the exhaust pipe. Disconnect the carburetor cable by removing the two screws on top of the carburetor. Remove oil pump cable from the oil pump control platen. (Oil pump is under the right side of engine.) Disconnect all wire connectors. There are three connections for carburetor auto-choke, starter motor and generator respectively. Remove the drive chain cover. This is under the chain. Remove the drive chain retaining clip and master link, and remove the drive chain. Remove the three engine hanger nuts and bolts. At this point the engine is free of the unit and should be removed from the right side of the frame.

3.2 ENGINE INSTALLATION

Engine installation is essentially the reverse order of removal. Us extreme care when replacing the engine back into the frame so as not to pinch any of the wires and cables. replace the engine hanger bolts and nuts. Apply 2430 Nm of torque to each of the three hanger bolts Install the drive chain and chain cover. Route and connect all wires and cable properly in the reverse order of removal. Install the spark plug wire.

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4. ENGINE FUEL SYSTEM

4.1 TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE WILL NOT START No fuel in tank No fuel to cylinder Too much fuel to cylinder No spark at plug Air filter clogged or dirty Improper setting of idle adjustment screw Ignition malfunction Fuel / Air mixture adjusted too lean or too rich Air filter dirty or clogged Spark plug insulator cracked or chipped Fuel tank breather hole or tube clogged or kinked Carburetor fuel jets dirty or clogged Fuel tank breather hole or tube clogged or kinked Fuel filter dirty or clogged Fuel flow impaired by petcock or fuel line clogs Carburetor float level set too low Carburetor float needle damaged Carburetor float level set too high Carburetor Air duct clogged or dirty Air filter clogged or dirty

ENGINE IDLES ROUGH, STALLS OR RUNS POORLY

LEAN MIXTURE

RICH MIXTURE

4.2 FUEL TANK REMOVAL

Remove the seat and rear fender. Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor. Remove the fuel tank cap and front fender. Unscrew the fuel tank fixed bolts. Note : Keep gasoline away from flames or sparks. Wipe up spilled gasoline at once.

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4.3 CARBURETOR
REMOVAL Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the fuel line and auto-choke electric wire. Unscrew the intake pipe mounting bolts at the carburetor then remove the carburetor. Note: Turn fuel cup on (off) position

Remove the carburetor cap. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle valve while depressing the throttle valve spring.

Remove the needle clip retainer, the jet needle and needle clip. Inspect the throttle valve and jet needle surface for wear, scratches or dirt.

DISASSEMBLY Unscrew the float chamber screws and remove the float chamber.

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Viper Service Manual Disassembly the float arm pin, float and float needle valve. Inspect the seat of the float needle valve for wear or damage.

Carburetor Float settings

Disassembly the idle jet, main jet, idle speeds adjust screw and idle mixture adjusts screw. Inspect all the jets and screws for wear or damage. Clean the passages and jets with compressed air. ASSEMBLY Clean all parts in solvent and blow it dry with compressed air. Assembly is essentially the reverse order of disassembly.

THROTTLE VALVE ASSEMBLY Install the needle clip on the jet needle. Install the jet needle into the throttle valve. Assemble the throttle cable, spring and the throttle valve. Align the throttle valve groove with the idle speed adjust screw and install the carburetor Page 20

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5. ENGINE LUBRICATION AND COOLING SYSTEM

5.1 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
The pump gears of oil pump are driven by the engine crankshaft. Pump gears rotate the plunger shaft in oil pump. This shaft sent the lubricating oil into the crankcase to mix with the air-fuel mixture to provide an even flow of lubricant to the internal engine parts. The oil drops and foam cover the cylinder inner wall, piston surface and piston rings.

5.2 CAUTION
Having enough oil supply to engine is very important. If the oil flow quantity is impeded this engine can be serious damaged, to the point where the engine can seize. If the oil level indicator lamp comes on, STOP the ENGINE immediately and refill the oil tank of the unit with JASO FC grade of two cycle oil. The RXL Viper series has a 1.1L oil tank capacity. If the engine cylinder has become serious scratched, you need to change the piston, piston rings and cylinder together. If this has happened, you need to check the combustion system and lubrication system carefully.

5.3 OIL PUMP

The quantity of oil deliver by the oil pump is increased by the engine speed and the carburetor throttle open width. Oil pump is located under the right side of the engine and connected by a control cable to the throttle.

5.4 COOLING SYSTEM

The air intake is achieved by the engine cooling fan. The cooling fan is on the right side of engine. The air is forced to flow through cylinder fins that surround the cylinder and cylinder head. This air flow will provide sufficient cooling of the engine. Always insure that the fins of the cylinder and cylinder head are clean and free of dirt or mud. If the fins become clogged use a pressure washer to clean them.

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5.5 TROUBLESHOOTING
LOW OIL SUPPLY TO ENGINE THE OIL LEVEL IN OIL TANK IS TOO LOW. OIL LINES WERE NOT ATTACHED. OIL HAS LEAKED FROM TUBE ENDS. OIL LINES ARE BROKEN. OIL LINES ARE CLOGGED. OIL PUMP NOT WORKING. EXTERNAL OIL LEAKS WORN CYLINDER HEAD GASKET WORN PISTON RINGS OIL LINE DISCONNECTED

OIL TANK LEVEL ALWAYS LOW

6. ENGINE COMBUSTION SYSTEM

6.1 TROUBLESHOOTING
LOW COMPRESSION CYLINDER HEAD CRACKED or WARPED HEAD GASKET LEAKING OR DAMAGED WARPED OR CRACKED CYLINDER HEAD CYLINDER OR PISTON RINGS WORN OUT EXCESSIVE CARBON BUILD-UP ON PISTON HEAD OR IN COMBUSTION CHAMBER PISTON AND CYLINDER WORN OUT EXCESSIVE CARBON BUILD-UP CYLINDER OR PISTON RINGS WORN OUT IMPROPER INSTALLATION OF PISTON RINGS PISTON OR CYLINDER WALL SCORED OR SCRATCHED EXCESSIVE CARBON BUILD-UP ON THE PISTON OR COMBUSTION CHAMBER ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM ( FAN, CYLINDER COVER.. ) WORKS BADLY. OIL SUPPLY IS OUT OF ORDER. WRONG IGNITION TIMING

HIGH COMPRESSION EXCESSIVE NOISE EXCESS SMOKE

OVERHEATING

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6.2 Cylinder and Piston Removal

(See Chapter 3 for Engine removal details) Remove the spark plug cap. Remove the seat and rear fender. Remove the exhaust pipe. Disconnect the wire. Remove out the engine. Remove the air cleaner and carburetor assemblies.

Remove the intake manifold mounting bolts. Remove the cylinder bolt nuts.

Remove the cylinder head. Remove the cylinder carefully. Remove one piston pin clip. Remove the piston pin and piston. Carefully spread each piston ring and remove it by lifting up at a point just opposite the gap. Note : Don't let the clip, other parts or foreign matter drop into engine crankcase.

6.3 Cylinder and Piston Inspection

Inspect the cylinder bore for wear or damage. Measure the cylinder inner diameter at three levels in X and Y axis. Inspection Tolerances Taper limit : 0.10 mm Out of round : 0.10 mm

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Viper Service Manual Check the cylinder head mating surface for warp with a straight edge and feeler gauge. Service limit : 0.10 mm

Insert each piston ring into the cylinder, and measure the end gap. Service limit : 0.5 mm

Measure the clearance between ring and groove. Service limit : 0.09 mm

Measure the piston outer diameter at 10 mm high from the skirts bottom. Service limit : 39.9 mm (for RXL50cc engine) 49.9 mm (for RXL90cc engine)

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Viper Service Manual Measure the piston pin bore, and the piston pin outer diameter. Pin outer diameter service limit: 9.96 mm(for RXL50cc engine) 11.96 mm(for RXL90cc engine) Pin bore service limit : 10.04 mm(for RXL50cc engine) 12.04 mm(for RXL90cc engine)

Measure the connecting rod small end inner diameter with a small hole gauge. Service limit : 14.06 mm(for RXL50cc engine) 15.06 mm(for RXL90cc engine)

6.4 INSTALLATION
Install the piston rings with the marks facing up. Do not damage the piston rings by spreading the ends too far. Clean the cylinder gasket surface being careful not to drop any gasket material into the crankcase.

Apply some oil to inside of the connecting rod small end. Install the piston, piston pin and clip. Install the piston with the arrow mark facing the exhaust pipe. Do not align the piston pin clip end gap with the piston cut-out. Install a new cylinder gasket. Apply a thin coat of engine oil to the piston rings and cylinder wall. Install the cylinder, compressing the piston rings. Replace a new cylinder head gasket. Install the cylinder head. Tighten the cylinder mounting bolt: torque to 10-14N.m Page 25

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7. TRANSMISSION SYSTEM

7.1 TROUBLESHOOTING
UNIT DOES MOVE AFTER HAS BEEN STARTED WILL NOT RUN AT HIGH SPEED BELT WORN OR DAMAGED FRONT PULLEY WORN OR BROKEN LINING OF CLUTCH WORN BELT WORN OR DAMAGED ROLLERS WORN SPRING OF REAR PULLEY IS DISTORTED

7.2 THE PARTS DRAWING OF TRANSMISSION SYSTEM

CVT Driven Pulley System

Transmission Gears

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The torque of crank-shaft drives the front pulley 1. The torque (drive) pulley turn the belt 2. The belt drive the rear (driven) pulley 3. The force through the clutch shoe, clutch housing and drive shaft 4. The drive shaft turn the idle gear in gear box 5. Turning speed reduced by final-gear and transmit to rear-axle shaft to move rear wheel

7.4 Automatic Continuous Variable Transmission (CVT)

This transmission is the combination of automatic centrifugal clutch and V-belt continuous variable transmission, which can change the transmission ratio automatically. When engine speed increase, the drive pulley will be push to belt by the centrifugal force from six rollers. Then the pitch circle of belt in drive pulley will be more large. The belt at driven pulley is forced to move to the center of shaft, then the radius of pitch circle is decreased. The transmission ratio is therefore altered by the alteration of pitch circle's radius. ( In the drawing, "H" means high speed, "L" means low speed )

7.5 Continuous Variable Transmission (CVT)

V-Belt is made of rubber fiber, resistant to head, pressure and abrasion. The inner side of the Belt is toothed.

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Viper Service Manual Drive Pulley Due to the increasing engine speed, the rollers push the movable drive face by centrifugal force. Then the belt is pressed outward increasing its turning radius. An aluminum fan is installed on the exterior of fixed drive face to reduce the belt temperature. Driven Pulley Because the revolving radius of V-Belt at the Drive End is increased, the Face Comp Movable Drive is squeezed out by the V-Belt at the Driven End to reduce the revolving radius. There is a Torque Cam on the Movable Drive Face. The Torque Cam is loaded from outside. When the outside load is higher than the engine's output, the pulley of fixed shaft and belt slip to make the Movable Drive Face move along the inner side of Cam and compensate to increase to high torque (toward to low speed) and enable the engine maintain smooth running with original revolution.

7.6 GEAR BOX

The torque received by the Drive shaft will be transmitted by the speed reduction of two sets to rear axle shaft. The first gear ratio is 36/13. The second gear ratio is 48/12.

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7.7 ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM

Starter Motor is installed on the upper side of engine. The starter motor has a safety lock out circuit that prevents the motor from engaging unless the left hand brake lever is applied.

7.8 KICK STARTER

This kick starter arm is on the left side of engine. When the kick-starter arm is kicked, the gear of start shaft will drive the kick starter to rotate the crank shaft to start the engine. After the engine is started, the kick-started will stop transfer the power to the kick-starter driven gear. When the kick-starter lever is released, the kick-starter gear will go back to its original position.

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7.9 INSPECTION OF C.V.T. SYSTEM

Remove the engine clutch cover, Check the belt for wear, cuts and separation of the materials. Replace the belt as needed. The belt should be dry and free of any oil contamination. If the belt has been contaminated with oil, you must replace the belt. Clean the Drive and Driven pulleys of any oil contamination before installing the new belt. Disassembly the front drive pulley. Inspect the six rollers and ramp plate for wear. Clean the rollers and ramp plate and replace all worn or damaged parts. Insure the Fan and Driven Pulley nuts are torqued to 80Nm. before reassembling the C.V.T. Clean the case and clutch cover gasket surfaces and install a new gasket to insure a proper seal is maintained.

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8. FRONT WHEEL AND STEERING SYSTEM

8.1 THE PARTS DRAWING OF FRONT WHEELS AND STEERING SYSTEM

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8.2 TROUBLESHOOTING STEERING

HARD STEERING

Damaged or Worn tire. Steering shaft holder to tight. Tire pressure to low. Damaged or Worn steering shaft bearings. Damaged or Worn tire Damaged or Worn front brake drum bearing. Bent Wheel rim. Axle nut loose or installed incorrectly. Wheel Rim hub studs loose. Wheel Rim stud hole worn. Cracked or broken Wheel hub. Incorrect brake adjustment. Brake cable sticking or kinked. Brake shoes wet. Bent tie rod. Wheel installed incorrectly. Unequal tire pressure. Bent Frame. Worn A-Arm bushing. Worn swing arm pivot bushing. Worn or damaged brake shoes. Worn or damaged brake drum. Brake shoe contaminated with oil, grease or dirt. Improper brake adjustment. Brake cable sticking or kinked. Loose front suspension fastener. Binding of suspension links. Worn or Damaged front A-Arm bushing. Improperly installed A-Arm or Swing Arm. Bent front shock absorber swing rod. Worn or damaged shock absorber spring. Worn or damaged A-Arm bushing.

FRONT WHEEL WOBBLE

BRAKE DRAG

STEERS TO ONE SIDE

POOR BRAKE PERFORMANCE

FRONT SUSPENSION NOISE

HARD SUSPENSION

SOFT SUSPENSION

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8.3 HANDLEBAR
REMOVAL Remove the throttle lever housing on the right handle bar by removing the two cover bolts.

Remove brake lever bracket by removing the two clamping bolts.

Remove engine switch housing on the left handle bar. Take care not to brake the wire connections. Remove rear brake level bracket.

Remove the bolts attaching the upper bar clamps.

Remove the handlebar holder and handlebar.

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Viper Service Manual INSTALLATION Place the handlebar on the lower bar clamps. Make sure the handlebar indexing hole aligns with the indexing pin in the lower handle bar clamp. Install the handlebar upper clamp with the L or R marks facing forward. Tighten the forward bolts first, then tighten the rear bolts. Install the handlebar upper holder's cover.

Install the switch housing, aligning the boss with the hole. Tighten the upper bolts first then tighten the lower one. Supply enough torque so the handle bars are tight in the clamp.

Install the rear brake lever bracket, aligning the boss with the hole. Tighten the bolt securely.

Aligning the split line of the throttle housing and holder with the punch mark. Tighten the bolt securely.

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8.4 FRONT WHEEL

REMOVAL Raise the front wheels off the ground by placing a block under the frame. Remove the front wheel nuts, washer and wheels. INSTALLATION Install and tighten the four-wheel nuts Torque: 50-60 N.m Remember put a cotter pin in the castle nut.

8.5 FRONT BRAKES

FRONT BRAKE INSPECTION Remove the front wheel. Remove the brake drum.

Measure the brake lining thickness. The minimum limit : 1.5 mm if they are less than the minimum limit, the lining must be replaced. Inspect the lining and drum for uneven wear and replace as needed.

Measure the brake drum inner diameter. The maximum limit : 86 mm, if the drum diameter is larger the drum must be replaced.

Turn the inner race of each bearing with fingers. The bearings should turn smoothly and quietly. If the race does not turn smoothly or quietly, replace the bearings.

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Viper Service Manual BRAKE PANEL REMOVAL Disconnect the brake cable from the brake cam arm. Remove the brake panel from the knuckle.

Remove brake arm and cam. Remove return spring . Remove indicator plate and felt seal.

INSTALL BRAKE PANEL Apply grease to the brake cam and anchor pin and install the cam in the brake panel. Soak the felt seal in the engine oil and install the seal on the brake cam.

Install the brake arm on the cam by aligning the punch mark and the groove on the cam. Tighten the brake arm bolt and nut.Torque: 4-7 N.m Install the return spring.

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Viper Service Manual Install the brake panel on the knuckle. Connect the brake cable to the brake arm.

Install the brake arm cover . Tighten the screws securely. Position the brake shoes in their original locations and install the brake shoe spring. Install the brake drum and front wheel. Install the castle nut and cotter pin.

8.6 STEERING SYSTEM

REMOVAL OF KINGPIN AND TIE-ROD Remove the front wheels and brakes plates. Remove the four self-lock nuts from the tie-rod ball joints and take off the two tie-rods.

Take off the rubber cap on the kingpin and remove the cotter pin on the kingpin. Remove the castle nut and remove the kingpin.

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Viper Service Manual TIE-ROD INSPECTION Inspect the tie-rod for damage or bending. Inspect the ball joint rubbers for damage, wear or deterioration. Turn the ball joints with fingers, the ball joints should turn smoothly and quietly. If there is visible damage or the movement is rough or stiff, the ball joint should be replaced.

KINGPIN INSPECTION Inspect the kingpin for damage or cracks. Measure the kingpin outer diameter. Upper minimum limit : 15.40 mm Lower minimum limit : 16.90 mm

KINGPIN BUSHING INSPECTION There are two bushing in the sleeve of front swing arm, the upper and lower bushing. Check the kingpin bushing for wear or damage. Measure the inner diameter of the bushing. Upper minimum limit : 15.69 mm Lower minimum limit : 17.19 mm

STEERING SHAFT REMOVAL Remove the handle bar and handle bar cover. (see paragraph 8-1) Remove the front fender. (see paragraph 10-1) Unscrew the steering shaft fixed out below shaft. Carefully remove the steering shaft from the frame.

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Viper Service Manual Remove the steering shaft. Remove the bushing from the bottom of the shaft shaft. Inspect the bushing for damage or wear, replace if necessary. Measure the bushing inner diameter. Maximum limit : 22.8 mm

STEERING SHAFT INSPECTION Inspect the steering shaft for damage or cracks. Measure the steering shaft outer diameter in the location of the bushing. Minimum limit : 22.0 mm

STEERING SHAFT BEARING INSPECTION Turn the shaft bearing with finger. The bearing is on the front part of frame. The bearing should turn smoothly and quietly. Also check that the bearing outer race fits snugly in the holder. Replace worn or damaged bearing if necessary.

INSTALLATION OF STEERING SHAFT Install the steering shaft with the bushing. Apply grease to the bushing. Install the bushing holder and tighten the nuts. Torque :24-30 N.m

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Viper Service Manual Install the steering shaft nut and tighten it. This nut is under this steering shaft. Torque : 50-60 N.m

INSTALLATION OF TIE-ROD Install the ball joint with " L" mark on the steering shaft side. Install the tie-rod with the mark on the wheel side.

Set the distance between the ball joints collars at 164 mm for both the RXL 50 and RXL 90. This is temporary setting.

INSTALLATION OF KINGPIN Apply grease to the kingpin lower dust seal lips and install the seal. Apply grease through the grease fitting to A-arm bushing and install the kingpin. Tighten the kingpin nut and torque to 30-40 N.m. Install the waterproof rubber cap. Temporarily set the distance between the ball joints at 147mm. Install the tie-rod and tighten the nuts and torque to 35-43 N.m

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Viper Service Manual

9. REAR WHEEL SYSTEM

9.1 Parts drawings of rear wheels and hydraulic disc brake system

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9.2 TROUBLESHOOTING
POOR BRAKE PERFORMANCE Low Brake fluid level Leaking brake line or caliper piston Contaminated Brake Fluid Brake pad worn Brakes out of adjustment Brake pads are Oily, Dirty or Wet Brake Rotor Worn, Warped or Damaged Brake calipers hanging or sticking Brake caliper piston dirty and sticking Axle not properly tightened Bent wheel rim Worn or damaged axle bearings Worn or Improperly tire inflation Rear axle bearing holder damaged Incorrect brake adjustment Brake caliper piston sticking Warped or Damaged brake rotor Brake line clogged Contaminated Brake Fluid

VIBRATION OR WOBBLE

BRAKE DRAG

9.3 REMOVE REAR WHEEL AND REAR BRAKE

Raise rear wheel off ground by placing blocking or stand under frame. Remove the cotter pin, axle nut and washer. Slide the wheel and wheel hub off the axle spindle.

Remove the two bolts that hold the brake calipers to the holder and remove the calipers.

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Viper Service Manual Remove the rear wheel axle nuts and then remove the mounting seat of the disk. Unscrew bolts and remove the brake Rotor. Check the thickness of disk in several places and replace if the thickness less than 3mm. Check the disc for cracks or large wearing groves. Replace the disc if badly worn or cracked. Check to see if the disc is bent or warped, replace as needed. Clean the disk of any dirt or oil and grease contamination. Insure the cooling holes are free of dirt and the friction surface smooth and even across the entire disc. Replace as needed. Remove the brake line from the calipers. Remove the friction pads from the brake calipers by pressing the caliper piston in fully and removing the static pad from the retaining clips. Then lift the piston pad from the piston to remove from the calipers. Check the thickness of brake shoe and replace if the thickness less than 1mm. Also replace the pads if they show signs of uneven wear or are cracked or otherwise damaged. Replace the pads if they have been contaminated with oil or grease or brake fluid. Inspect the caliper piston for signs of brake fluid leaks and replace as needed.

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9.4 Rear brake installation

NOTE: Take great care as to not contaminate the brake pads or rotor with oil, grease or brake fluid during the installation. To reinstall the brakes, replace the brake rotor on the mounting seat. Reinstall the mounting seat over the axle and secure with the two large axle nuts. Torque to 60-80 Nm. Press the caliper piston in fully and place the piston pad over the retaining pins and piston. Replace the static pad in the the retaining clip and insure that it is fully engaged and in the proper location. Slide the caliper back into position over the rotor and replace the two caliper retaining bolts and tighten torque to 30-40 Nm. Reinstall the brake line. The brake line will need bleed of air at this point. Remove the reservoir cap on the handle bars by removing the two cap bolts. Loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper and depress the brake lever to expel any air in the line. Tighten the bleeder valve before releasing the brake lever. Repeat the process if loosening the bleeder valve and depressing the brake lever until all air has been purged from the brake line. Tighten the bleeder valve and fill the reservoir with (Dot 3 or Dot 4) brake fluid to a level of half full. Reinstall the reservoir cap and cap bolts. Test the brake system and check for any leaks in the brake line connections

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9.4 DRIVE CHAIN & AXLE

REMOVAL AND INSPECTION Remove the rear wheel and the rear brake Remove the drive chain skid plate and chain guard. Disassembly the chain retaining clip and master link. Note: the retaining clip direction. Disassembly the driven sprocket, axle and sprocket collar. Inspect the drive sprocket and sprocket holder for damage or wear. Replace as needed. Look for cracks, bent or broken teeth. Inspect both the axle and drive sprocket holder splines for damage and striping. Replace as needed. Set the rear axle in V-blocks and check the runout. The runout limit is 0.5 mm. If the axle is bent beyond the limit replace the axle. Do Not try to straighten the axle as internal damage may result in a total failure of the axle.

Check the turning of bearing with fingers. The bearings should turn smoothly and quietly. Replace if necessary. INSTALLATION Add grease to the dust seal lips and install dust seals. Assembly the rear axle and the driven sprocket. Assembly the drive chain on the driven sprocket. Assembly the master link and retaining clip. Note: the retaining clip direction. Install the drive chain skid plate. Install the chain guard

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10. FENDERS AND EXHAUST SYSTEM

10.1 FENDERS DRAWING

10.2 Fender & Body panel removal

Remove the brake lever assembly from the handle bars. Disconnect the front brake and throttle cables from the lever assemblies. Remove the handle bar switch and cover and then remove the handle bars. (Note: see chapter 8.3 for additional details of handle bar removal) Remove two plastic bolts as show in picture 1 & 2. Remove the front body screened cowling. Picture 1

Picture 2

Viper Service Manual Remove the seat before removing the front or rear fender. Unscrew the bolts as shown in pictures 3 & 4. Remove the rear fender as pictured in picture 5. NOTE: Use caution when disengaging the inter locking tabs so as not to brake them.

Picture 3

Unscrew the four bolts located under the seat to remove the rear body panel after the fender have been removed. (see Picture 6)

Picture 4

Picture 5

Picture 6 Page 47

Viper Service Manual As picture 7 unscrew the bolt then you can remove the front body fender. l As picture 8 & 9 unscrew these three bolts then you can remove the front R/L fender. Remove the the three bolt retaining the front body panel to the frame as shown in picture 7. Remove the two bolts, one on the left side and one on the right side, from the fender support bars near the foot rests as shown in picture 8. Picture 7 Remove the front body panel to locate the remaining four bolts the affix the front fender to the frame. Remove the four fender bolts, two on the right side and two on the left side, to remove the front fenders from the unit.

All of the body trim parts are sold separately to make replacement less costly. When replacing a fender, be sure to replace all safety sticker that were attached to the unit at the factory. Picture 8

Picture 9

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Viper Service Manual 10.4 EXHAUST PIPE DRAWING

10.5 EXHAUST PIPE REMOVE

CAUTION: Do not service the exhaust pipe while hot.

Remove the exhaust pipe manifold bolts that affix the exhaust pipe to the engine. these are located on the underside of the cylinder.

Remove the exhaust pipe mounting bolts that beside the muffler body. Remove the exhaust pipe carefully.

10.6 EXHAUST PIPE INSTALLATION

Installation is the reverse order of removal. Clean the Cylinder exhaust port gasket seat and the gasket seat of the exhaust manifold to insure a proper seal. Replace the muffler gasket. Torque : Exhaust muffler bolts 30-35 N.m After installation, inspect the exhaust system for leaks. Page 49

Viper Service Manual

11. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

11.1 TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
ENGINE STARTS BUT STOPS IMPROPER IGNITION TIMING FAULTY SPARK PLUG ENGINE STOP SWITCH AT " OFF " FAULTY IGNITION COIL FAULTY GENERATOR FAULTY CDI UNIT POORLY CONNECTED: Between CDI and ignition coil Between alternator and CDI unit Between CDI and engine stop switch Between ignition coil and spark plug Between generator and CDI unit IGNITION PRIMARY CIRCUIT Faulty generator Faulty CDI unit Faulty alternator exciter coil Loosen contacted terminals Faulty ignition coil IGNITION SECONDARY CIRCUIT Faulty plug Loosen contacted spark plug wire IMPROPER IGNITION TIMING Faulty generator Faulty CDI unit LOOSE, BROKEN OR SHORTED WIRE FAULTY ALTERNATOR FAULTY IGNITION SWITCH LOOSE BATTERY CONNECTION LOOSE CHARGING SYSTEM CONNECTION

NO SPARK AT PLUG

ENGINE RUNS POORLY

CHARGING SYSTEM FAILURE

ENGINE INTERMITTENT POWER

STARTER MOTOR WILL NOT TURN DEAD BATTERY FAULTY IGNITION SWITCH LOOSE OR DISCONNECTED WIRE STARTER MOTOR & ENGINE TURN FAULTY IGNITION SYSTEM BUT ENGINE DOES NOT START ENGINE PROBLEMS FAULTY ENGINE STOP SWITCH

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11.2 IGNITION COIL

Remove the spark plug cap from the spark plug. Disconnect the ignition coil primary wire. Measure the primary coil resistance. STANDARD: 0.1 - 0.3O Measure the secondary coil resistance with the spark plug cap in place. STANDARD : 7.4 - 11 k

11.3 IGNITION TIMING The ignition advance is 15 3/4000rpm The Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI) system is factory pre-set and does not require adjustment.

11.4 ALTERNATOR EXCITER COIL Remove the seat / rear fender and front fender. (see chapter 10) Disconnect the exciter coil wire. Measure the resistance between the yellow/red wire and ground. STANDER : 460-700 11.5 BATTERY CAUTION The battery gives off explosive gases ; keep sparks, flames and cigarettes away. Provide adequate ventilation when charging or using the battery in an open area. The battery contains sulfuric acid (electrolyte). Contact with skin or eyes may cause severe burns. Wear protective clothing and a face shield. Electrolyte is poisonous. If swallowed drink large quantities of water or milk and call a physician. 11.6 BATTERY INSPECTION Battery is under the seat , you can see this battery from the left side. Measure the battery voltage using a voltmeter. VOLTAGE : Fully charged : 13.1 V Undercharged : Below 12.0 V

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BATTERY REMOVAL Remove the battery holder bolt nuts. Disconnect the negative cable and then the position cable and remove the battery. BATTERY INSTALLATION Install the battery in the reverse order of removal. After installing the battery, coat the terminals with clean grease.

11.7 CHARGING
Connect the charge positive cable to the battery position terminal. Connect the charge negative cable to the battery negative terminal. Using 0.9A charging current about 5 hours. (Normal charging) or using 4A charging current about 1 hour. (Quick charging) NOTE: Quick charging should be limited to an emergency ; Normal charging is preferred.

CAUTION: Keep flames and sparks away from a battery being charged.

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TROUBLE SHOOTING
12.2 POOR PERFORMANCE AT LOW IDLE SPEED
Possible Problem Areas N/G Check Ignition Timing Faulty C. D. I. Unit Faulty Pulse Generator

O.K.

Check Carburetor Air Adjustment

N/G Improper Air Screw Adjustment Fuel / Air mixture ratio to lean

O.K.

Check for Intake Manifold Leak

N/G

Deteriorated Insulator O-Ring Loose Carburetor Damaged Carburetor Gasket

O.K.

Test Spark

N/G Weak or Intermittent Spark

Faulty Spark Plug Fouled Spark Plug Faulty C.D.I. Unit Faulty Engine stop Switch Poor connection, Broken or Shorted Wire Broken or Shorted Ignition Coil Broken or Shorted Spark Plug Wire Faulty Pulse Generator

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TROUBLE SHOOTING
12.3 POOR PERFORMANCE AT HIGH SPEED
Possible Problem Areas N/G Check Ignition Timing Faulty C. D. I. Unit Faulty Pulse Generator

O.K.

Check Fuel Flow at Carburetor

N/G Low Fuel Flow No Fuel in Fuel Tank Clogged Fuel Line Clogged Fuel Valve Clogged Fuel Tank Cap Breather Hose Clogged Fuel Filter

O.K.

Check Carburetor Jets

N/G Clogged

Jets Clogged (Clean with High Pressure Air)

O.K.

Air Cleaner

N/G Clean or Replace Filter Screen Dirty

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12.4 LOSS OF POWER

N/G Pressure Low Punctured Tire Leaking Valve Stem

N/G Engine speed does not increase

Fuel / Air mixture ratio to lean Clogged Air Cleaner Clogged Muffler Restricted fuel flow Clogged Fuel Tank Cap Breather hose

N/G

Faulty Pulse Generator Faulty C. D. I. Unit

N/G Low Pressure N/G Dirty

Leaking Head Gasket Worn Cylinder Worn or Damaged Piston Worn or Damaged Piston Rings

Clean and Adjust Air and Fuel mixture

N/G Fouled or Discolored

Clean Spark Plug Incorrect Spark Plug Heat Range

N/G Overheating

Excessive Carbon Deposits in combustion chamber Wrong Fuel Type Fuel/Air mixture ratio to lean Used poor quality Fuel Worn Piston and Cylinder Fuel/Air mixture ratio to lean Wrong Fuel Type Ignition Timing to Advanced Excessive Carbon Deposits in Combustion Chamber

N/G

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