Manila Heritage Tour

A Field Work in History of Architecture IV

Submitted by:

BRAVO, Earl Patrick C. GUTIERREZ, Marlin Noah P. RETERACION, Reymond S. BS ARCH IV-3D

Submitted to:

Archt. Mar Lorence Ticao Adviser in History IV

QUIAPO CHURCH, MANILA

Quiapo Church, officially known as Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene, is a Roman Catholic church located in the District of Quiapo, Manila, in the Philippines. The church is one of the most popular churches in the country. It is home to the Black Nazarene, a much venerated statue of Jesus Christ which many people believe has miraculous attributes. The church was painted cream after the original Mexican Baroque edifice was burned down in 1928. It is expanded to its current form in 1984 for accommodation of thousands of devotees. Also known as St. John the Baptist Parish, the church at present belongs to the Archdiocese of Manila. The current rector is Rev. Msgr. Jose Clemente Ignacio, former Chancellor and Oeconomus of the Archdiocese of Manila, who succeeded Msgr. Josefino Ramirez (the Vicar General of the archdiocese) upon the latter's appointment as rector of the Archdiocesan Shrine of the Divine Mercy in Maysilo, Mandaluyong City. Assisting Msgr. Clem are his Parochial Vicars Rev. Fr. Fernando Carpio, Rev. Fr. Frank Villanueva, Rev. Fr. Venusto Suarez and Rev. Fr. Alvin

Fullon who has recently been promoted as Parish Priest of Mary the Comforter Parish, Maricaban, Pasay.

Historical background
When Governor General Santiago de Vera founded the District of Quiapo on August 29, 1586, the Franciscan Missionaries built the first church of Quiapo with Bamboo and Nipa. San Pedro Bautista, a Franciscan missionary at that time was one of the founders of the Quiapo church, thus his image is located at one of the side niches of the church. San Pedro Bautista founded many churches in Metro Manila and Laguna. The famous of them all is the one at San Francisco Del Monte, the parish that is named after him and houses the Holy Cave for missionaries that went to China and Japan during those days.

Unfortunately, this church was burned in 1639. Rebuilding and repairs at intervals gave the parish a stronger edifice which the earthquake of 1863 partially destroyed. Under the supervision of Fathers Eusebio de Leon and Manuel Roxas, the third church was completed in 1899, with Fr. Roxas raising PhP. 40,000.00 from contributions. In the fire

of October 30, 1928, the church was left in ruins leaving its scarred walls and belfry. Dona Encarnacion Nakpil de Orense, head of the Parish Committee, raised funds for the reconstruction of the church and National Artist for Architecture Juan Nakpil was made responsible for the church's rebuilding. Miraculously, the church survived the ravages of the Second World War, despite its surrounding buildings being completely destroyed. Expansion of the Church and Recognition as Minor Basilica To meet the needs of an ever-increasing number of churchgoers, Msgr. Jose Abriol, together with Architect Jose Ma. Zaragoza and Engr. Eduardo Santiago, worked hard in 1984 to have the parish church and national shrine remolded. Thus this sacred edifice has doubled in holding capacity and has acquired a most sturdy columnless structure and modern architectural beauty. Cardinal Sin blessed it on September 28, 1987. The year after, Quiapo Church was declared the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene. The Papal Nuncio, Most Rev. Bruno Torpigliani, blessed the altar of San Lorenzo Ruiz on February 1, 1988.

History of Quiapo and surrounding areas Long before the surreal-and-fringe, Quiapo was a thriving fishing village, a complex of intersecting rivers, canals, and marshes, abundant with the water lily Kiapo, from which it derived its name. By the latter part of the 16th century, Quiapo had become a flourishing center of commerce, awash not merely of water lilies, but also of a profusion of crafts and trade stores, theaters and movie houses and open markets, attracting the elite, the 'illustrados' and the nouveau riche who came to build their luxurious homes and mansions. Part of the boom and burgeoning commerce was attributed to the Black Nazarene. Brought to the country by the Recollect Friars in the early 1600s, the Seor, the endearing name for the Black Nazarene, finally found permanent residence at the Quiapo Church, relegating its patron saint, St. John de Baptist to a demoted status, obscurity and lessened reverence. But time and change have ravaged Quiapo of that historical past. Now it stands transformed, a shadow of its gentrified past, its sole vestige, the Quiapo Church razed many times by fires and earthquake, but always arising anew from those recurrent calamities monolithic and towering over the miasma of third world commercialism that surrounds it. And housed within, is the Black Nazarene, the main draw to the Quiapo Church. A wooden image that has spawned a culture of devotion and idolatry unlike any other in the Philippines, drawing countless devotees, mostly from the 'masa', but also from the ranks of the desperate professionals, crowding the church every friday, paying homage in all piety, some in open humility, with desperate promises, walking on their knees to the altar for a favor, for a miracle, for penance, for giving thanks. And around the church, an enclave of commerce prospers; an outdoor market that caters to the masa seeking bargains for its mundane needs, spiritual accoutrements and alternative necessities. The market under the bridge - "sa ilalim ng tulay" - is still a popular draw, where, with right kind of haggle, everything is cheaper than anywhere else. Carriedo is now a street market that stretches from end to end, blaring decibels of deafening music, mongering all sorts of "branded" imitations and pirate DVDs of current theater fares. Beggars invariably materialize, drawn to the tourist-, charitable- and richlooking visitors. For the appetite lined with fortitude, there is a wide choice of sidewalk and push-cart cuisine and native delicacies. But on Fridays, the day of special homage to the Nazarene, the multitudes multiply.

It becomes a carnival of sight, sounds and smella street theater of the crowding masa seeking options for their salvation needs, costumed penitents, faith healers, rows of palm readers and Tarot-shuffling fortune tellers, ballon-mongers, and flower vendors for altar offerings. A profusion of make-do stalls hawk a dizzying array of wares for the faithful and alternative rituals candles in a variety of colors and shapes for specific spells and counter spells, incense, tawas, lotions and snake oils. Colorful icons of the Sto. Nio and the Virgin Mary in laminates, wood or plaster. Anting-antings, pendants and talismans, rosaries in all sizes and prices, leaves, twigs, sprigs, seeds, roots, juices or decoctions of herbal medicinal plants fresh, dried or powdered, bundled, bottled or bagged, decocted for a sundry of day-to-day maladies or desperate needs. And in the air, a composite of odors, buried in each other, of urban pollution and refuse, burning candles, wilting medicinal plants, incense, and multitudinous sweat, intermittently relieved by doses of scents wafting from stringed sampaguitas. Outside the church, the faithful patiently shuffles in their long communion lines. Inside, they cram to the doors, many busily digesting the homily, some beading through rosaries in silent prayer, while some clutch at their cellphones frantically texting their prayers. And outside, high above in a corner of the church facade, lords a giant flat-screen LCD television from which the priest renders his hymns and homily, and after the services, replaced by a static image of the Nazarene, probably pondering this festival of prayer and commerce.

STA. CRUZ CHURCH, MANILA

Santa Cruz Church is located on the right bank of the Pasig River, on the northern portion of the City of Manila, near the mouth of the river, in between the districts of Tondo and Quiapo. The church is located at Plaza Lacson (formerly Plaza Goite) in Santa Cruz. It is fronted by Plaza de Sta. Cruz and the famous Carriedo Water Fountain is just directly across the street.

Historical Background Prior to the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors to the Philippine Islands, the district of Santa Cruz was partly a marshland, patches of greeneries, orchards and partly rice fields. A Spanish expedition in 1581 claimed the territory and awarded to the Society of Jesus or more commonly called the Jesuits. The Jesuits built the first Roman Catholic Church in the area where the present Santa Cruz Parish stands on June 20, 1619. The Jesuits enshrined the image of the Our Lady of Pilar in 1643 to serve the pre-dominantly Chinese residents in the area. The image drew a lot of devotees and a popular cult grew around it. The titular patroness of this church is Nuestra Seora del Pilar which was brought from the Spain. The Confraternity of Nuestra Seora del Pilar was cannonically established in this church in 1743. At the Santa Cruz Parish, a small park was built that linked the area into the headquarters of the Spanish cavalry, the building that once was the College of San Ildefonso, operated by the Jesuits. The district in the Spanish times also had a slaughter house and a meat market and up north was the Chinese cemetery.

The original structure of Sta. Cruz Church was twice damaged by earthquakes; it was completely destroyed during the Battle of Manila in 1945, which totally devastated the entire city and ended the almost three-year Japanese occupation of the Philippines. When Manila was declared the capital of the Philippine archipelago on June 24, 1571 by the head of the Spanish expedition, Migue l Lopez de Legaspi, the city soon became a replica of a European medieval city with churches, palaces and city halls built in the Spanish baroque style. The present building of the church, completed in 1957, was designed to reflect the architecture of that period. The churchs tower, however, is comprised of a series of sections whose girth decreases as they climb upwards. Their shape and dimensions are reminiscent of the composition of other Asiatic styles of architecture. The Franciscan fathers were given the responsibility to care for the lepers of the city and specifically the San Lazaro Hospital. A Fr. Felix Huertas developed San Lazaro into a refuge for the afflicted and it became a famous home for those afflicted in the north side of the Pasig River.

SAN AGUSTIN CHURCH, MANILA

San Agustin Church is a Roman Catholic church under the auspices of The Order of St. Augustine, located inside the historic walled city of Intramuros in Manila. Completed by 1607, it is the oldest church still standing in the Philippines. No other surviving building in the Philippines has been claimed to pre-date San Agustin Church.

In 1993, San Agustin Church was one of four Philippine churches constructed during the Spanish colonial period designated by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, under the classification "Baroque Churches of the Philippines". It had been named a National Historical Landmark by the Philippine government in 1976.

Historical Background The present structure is actually the third Augustinian church erected on the site. The first San Agustin Church was the first religious structure constructed by the Spaniards on the island of Luzon. Made of bamboo and nipa, it was completed in 1571, but destroyed by fire in December, 1574 during the attempted invasion of Manila by the forces of Limahong. A second church made of wood was constructed on the site. This was destroyed in February, 1583, in a fire that started when a candle set ablaze the drapes of the funeral bier during the interment of the Spanish Governor-General Gonzalo Ronquillo de Pealosa. The Augustinians decided to rebuild the church using stone, and to construct as well an adjacent monastery. Construction began in 1586, from the design of Juan Macias. The structure was built using hewn adobe stones quarried from Meycauayan, Binangonan and San Mateo, Rizal. The work proceeded slowly due to the lack of funds and materials, as well as the relative scarcity of stone artisans. The monastery was operational by 1604, and the church was formally declared as completed on January 19, 1607, and named St. Paul of Manila. Macias, who had died before the completion of the church, was officially acknowledged by the Augustinians as the builder of the edifice. San Agustin Church was looted by the British forces which occupied Manila in 1762 during the Seven Years' War. It withstood major earthquakes that struck Manila in 1645, 1754, 1852, 1863, and 1880. In 1854, the church was renovated under the supervision of architect Luciano Oliver. On August 18, 1898, the church was the site where Spanish Governor-General Fermin Jaudenes prepared the terms for the surrender of Manila to the United States of America following the Spanish-American War. During the Japanese occupation of the Philippines during World War II, San Agustin Church was turned into a concentration camp for prisoners. During the final days of the Battle of Manila, hundreds of Intramuros residents and clergy were held hostage in the church by Japanese soldiers; many of the hostages would be killed during the threeweek long battle. The church itself survived the bombardment of Intramuros by American and Filipino forces with only its roof destroyed, the only one of the seven churches in the walled city to remain standing. The adjacent monastery however was totally destroyed, and would be rebuilt in the 1970s as a museum under the design of architect Angel Nakpil.

Features San Agustn Church measures 67.15 meters long and 24.93 meters wide. Its elliptical foundation has allowed it to withstand the numerous earthquakes that have destroyed many other Manila churches. It is said that the design was derived from Augustinian churches built in Mexico, and is almost an exact copy of Puebla Cathedral in Puebla, Mexico. The facade is unassuming and even criticized as "lacking grace and charm", but it has notable baroque touches, especially the ornate carvings on its wooden doors. The church courtyard is graced by several granite sculptures of lions, which had been gifted by Chinese converts to Catholicism.

The church interior is in the form of a Latin cross. The church has 14 side chapels and a trompe-l'oeil ceiling painted in 1875 by Italian artists Cesare Alberoni and Giovanni Dibella. Up in the choir loft are hand-carved 17th-century seats of molave, a beautiful tropical hardwood. The church contains the tomb of Spanish conquistadors Miguel Lpez de Legazpi, Juan de Salcedo and Martn de Goiti, as well as several early Spanish Governors-General and archbishops. Their bones are buried in a communal vault near the main altar. The painter Juan Luna, and the statesmen Pedro A. Paterno and

Trinidad Pardo de Tavera are among the hundreds of laypersons whose remains are also housed within the church. San Agustin Church also hosts an image of Our Lady of Consolation (Nuestra Senora de Consolacion y Correa), which was canonically crowned by Manila Archbishop Cardinal Jaime Sin in 2000.

MANILA CATHEDRAL, MANILA

The Manila Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica (also known as the CathedralBasilica of the Immaculate Conception and informally as Manila Cathedral) is the cathedral church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila. It is located in the Intramuros district of Manila in the Philippines. The cathedral has been damaged and destroyed several times since the original cathedral was built in 1581; the sixth and

current incarnation of the cathedral was completed in 1958 and was consecrated as a minor basilica in 1981. It is dedicated to Saint Mary under the title La Purisima Inmaculada Concepcion or Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, patroness of the Philippines. Historical Background When the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi defeated the last Filipino ruler, prior to the Spanish occupation, Rajah Sulayman from what was then known as Maynilad in May of 1571, he set aside land for the Church. The See of Manila was founded in 1578, with jurisdiction over the Philippine Islands and suffragan to the See of Mexico. Its first bishop, Domingo de Salazar, arrived in the Philippines on September 1581.

The first cathedral, made of nipa and bamboo, was constructed in 1581. It was damaged by a typhoon in 1582 and razed by fire in 1583. The second cathedral, which was made of stone, was built in 1592. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1600.

Construction of the third cathedral began in 1614. The new structure, consisting of three naves and seven chapels, was blessed in 1614. It was toppled by another earthquake which shook Manila in 1645. The magnificent fourth cathedral was constructed from 1654 to 1671. It was severely damaged in 1863 by a very strong earthquake that also damaged the Palace of the Governor General of the Philippines. In 1880, another earthquake toppled its bell tower, rendering the cathedral towerless until 1959. It was replaced by a makeshift wooden structure.

The fifth cathedral was constructed from 18701879. It was solemnly blessed in December of 1879. The cross atop the central dome is a reference point of astronomical longitudes of the archipelago. This incarnation of the cathedral was reduced to rubble by the bombing in 1945 during the Battle of Manila. The present cathedral was constructed from 1954 to 1958 during the tenure of Manila Archbishop Rufino Jiao Cardinal Santos, and under the supervision of architect Fernando Ocampo. It was elevated to the rank of minor basilica in 1981 by Pope John Paul II.

Features When the Manila Cathedral in the Philippines was first constructed the materials used were local palms, wood and bamboo. The materials used now were stone, granite, bricks, galvanized iron, copper, lead and zinc. The surviving material, still used in the construction is the native hardwoods. The church is a Romanesque-Byzantine architecture that features baroque elements, a fusion of contrasting styles. The facade is composed of two-storey blocks with three entrances of recessed arches. The doors are made of bronze sculpted by Alessandro Monteleone and Francisco Nagni. Attached is the bell tower at the right side of the building. The main faade of the Manila Cathedral is graced by statues of famous saints sculpted in Roman travertine stone. In the old cathedral, they were originally made of molave wood. The saints are St. Rose of Lima, patroness of the Philippines by Angelo Fattinanzi, St. Jacob the Great, St. Andrew the Apostle, preacher of the faith in many corners of Asia and patron of saint of Manila, by Livia Papini; St. Francis Xavier, apostle of the Indies, by Alcide Tico; St. Polycarp, old bishop of Smyrna, by Alcide Tico; and St. Anthony Abbot, founder of Oriental monasticism, by Livia Papini.

BASILICA OF SAN SEBASTIAN, MANILA

The Basilica Minore de San Sebastin, better known as San Sebastin Church, is a Roman Catholic minor basilica in Manila, the Philippines. It is the seat of the Parish of San Sebastian and the National Shrine of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel.

Completed in 1891, San Sebastin Church is noted for its architectural features. An example of the revival of Gothic architecture in the Philippines, it is the only all-steel church or basilica in Asia.[1] It has also been implausibly reputed to be the first prefabricated building in the world, and more plausibly claimed as the only prefabricated steel church in the world. In 2006, San Sebastian Church was included in the Tentative List for possible designation as a World Heritage Site. It was designated as a National Historical Landmark by the Philippine government in 1973.

San Sebastin Church is under the care of The Order of the Augustinian Recollects, who also operate a college adjacent to the basilica. It is located at Plaza del Crmen, at the eastern end of Claro M. Recto Street, in Quiapo, Manila. HISTORY In 1621, Don Bernardino Castillo, a generous patron and a devotee of the Christian martyr Saint Sebastian, donated the land which is the current site of San Sebastin Church for the construction of a church. The original church, made of wood, burned in 1651 during a Chinese uprising. The succeeding structures, which were built of brick, were destroyed by fire and earthquakes in 1859, 1863, and 1880. In the 1880s, Estebn Martnez, the parish priest of the ruined church, approached the Spanish architect, Genaro Palacios, with a plan to build a fire and earthquake-resistant structure made entirely of steel. Palacios completed a design that fused Earthquake Baroque with the Neo-Gothic style.[5] His final design was said to have been inspired by the famed Gothic Burgos Cathedral in Burgos, Spain.

CONSTRUCTION The prefabricated steel sections that would compose San Sebastin Church were manufactured in Binche, Belgium. According to the historian Ambeth Ocampo, the knockdown steel parts were ordered from the Societe Anonyme des Enterprises de Travaux Publiques in Brussels. In all, 52 tons of prefabricated steel sections were transported in eight separate shipments from Belgium to the Philippines, the first shipment arriving in 1888. Belgian engineers supervised the assembly of the church, the first column of which was erected on September 11, 1890. The walls were filled with mixed sand, gravel and cement. The stained glass windows were imported from the Henri Oidtmann Company, a German stained glass firm, while local artisans assisted in applying the finishing touches of the steel church.

The Church of San Sebastian was raised to the status of a minor basilica by Pope Leo XIII on June 24, 1890. Upon its completion the following year, on August 16, 1891, Basilica Minore de San Sebastian was consecrated by the Archbishop of Manila, Bernrdo Nozaleda.

Gustave Eiffel's role It has long been reputed that Gustave Eiffel, the French engineer behind the Eiffel Tower and the steel structure within the Statue of Liberty, was involved in the design and construction of San Sebastin Church. The connection between Eiffel and San Sebastin Church was reportedly confirmed by historian Ambeth Ocampo while doing research in Paris. Ocampo likewise published a report that in the 1970s, the famed architect I. M. Pei had visited Manila to confirm reports he had heard that Eiffel had designed an all-steel church in Asia. When Pei

inspected San Sebastin Church, he reportedly pronounced that the metal fixtures and overall structure were indeed designed by Eiffel.

The Order of the Agustinian Recollect (OAR) Parishes Manual cited that the San Sebastian church is the first all-iron church in the world, the first iron edifice in Asia and the second in the world after Eiffle Tower. It has its beginnings in 1621 when Don Bernardino Castillo, a generous patron and a well-known devotee of San Sebastian donated his lot for the dream of having a steel church in Asia become a reality. The original church, which was made of wood, was burned in 1651 during a Chinese uprising. The succeeding structures were destroyed by fire and an earthquake in 1859, 1863, and, 1880 destroyed the imposing stone of the church. The exasperated parish priest, Fr. Esteban Martinez approached the Spanish Architect Genero Palacios with a plan to build a fire and earthquake-resistant church made entirely of steel. Ambeth Ocampo states that the present San Sebastian church was ordered knockdown in steel parts from the Societe Anonime des Enterprises de Travaux Publiques in Brussels,

Belgium. The Societe cast all the parts and shipped them piece by piece to Manila, (as what Eiffel did in most of his designs). Two Belgian engineers supervised the construction of the church which was later completed and inaugurated in 1891. However, the catalogues of Gustave Eiffels work and the list of the designs and exportation of the church in Manila, Philippines gives 1875 as its date runs counter to the National Historical Institute date of 1891. In any case, it is certain that Eiffel designed the metal structure of the church and it is strongly possible that the Spanish Architect Palacios was the one who designed the San Sebastian Church. FEATURES San Sebastian Church is the only all-steel church in Asia.[1][4] It has two openwork towers and steel vaulting. The basilica's central nave is twelve meters from the floor to the dome, and thirty-two meters to the tip of the spires. The interior of the church displays groined vaults in the Gothic architecture style. The steel columns, walls and ceiling were painted by Filipino artist Lorenzo Rocha and his students to give off a fauxmarble and jasper appearance. Trompe l'oeil paintings were used to decorate the interiors of the church. True to the Gothic revival spirit of the church are its confessionals, pulpit, altars and five retablos as designed by Filipino artist Lorenzo Guerrero, as well as Rocha. The sculptor Eusebio Garcia carved the statues of holy men and women. Six holy water fonts were constructed for the church, each crafted from marble obtained from Romblon. Above the main altar of the church is an image of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, given to the church by Carmelite sisters from Mexico City in 1617. The image withstood all the earthquakes and fires which had destroyed previous incarnations of San Sebastian Church, but its ivory head was stolen in 1975.

MANILA CENTRAL POST OFFICE, MANILA

The Manila Central Post Office is the central post office of the city of Manila, Philippines. It is the head office of the Philippine Postal Corporation, and houses the country's main mail sorting-distribution operations. Designed by Filipino architect Juan Marcos de Guzman Arellano, the post office building was built in neoclassical architecture in 1926. It was severely damaged in World War II, and rebuilt in 1946 preserving most of its original design.

The destruction brought about by the World War II didnt spare the magnificent building and it was rebuilt afterwards. As expected, this is where all the main mail sorting center of the country and they certainly have the space for it. However just like other government run institutions, it has fallen into disrepair until it was privatized as the Philippine Postal Corporation. Jeepneys normally make this one of their landmarks where they pick up and drop passengers.

It is located in the Intramuros district of the city, at the bank of the Pasig River. The front of the building faces the Liwasang Bonifacio plaza (now known as Plaza Lawton). Just across the Pasig River crossing via Jones Bridge is the massive neoclassical building that looks totally out of place in modern Manila. This is the Manila Central Post Office. The history of the post office dates all the way back to 1767 during the Spanish times, while the building itself is relatively recent having only been built in 1926. It occupies a nice spot along the

Pasig River just across the stretch of Escolta. It certainly is one of the more impressive buildings in Manila which already has a surprisingly large number of colonial era buildings. Stamp collectors also frequently visit the Manila Post Office to buy latest stamp issues from the philatelic section. They also sell different types of stamps like Mint, Cancelled, Setenant, Souvenir sheets, and Sheetlets.

Greek inspired Ionic Columns

Ground Floor : Bureau of Customs Office