At present there is a great profusion of types of rapier looms on the market, both in terms of their markers and of their

design. Furthermore, as regards loom design there is diversity at two levels; at the strategic level, of decisions about the general method to be used, such as whether or not to use rigid rapiers: at the tactical level , of decisions about, say, the type of rapier drive used to put a given design strategy in to effect. The present article is concerned only with the first of these types of diversity, giving an introductory account of the general methods employed in rapier looms and their implications. It is intended to discuss the mechanisms used for rapier actuation in a further article. Weft Insertion The main distinctions as regards weft-insertion methods are illustrated in Fig. 1. ln the simplest cases, in each loom cycle' the tip of a single rapier is inserted across the whole width of the shed and then withdrawn, weft being inserted during rapier motion in one direction only. Because the progress of shedding and beat-up is inhibited over the whole period for which the rapier is in the shed, the loom cycle is not utilized efficiently, and only a few looms use this method: is has the merit that problems of weft transfer do not arise. Furthermore, if double picks are inserted there is no need to cut the weft, no weft waste, and one selvedge is automatically secured. The loops of weft at the other selvedge can be secured either b knitting them together or with a catch thread. The rapier can simply have the weft permanently threaded through a hole near its tip, and it must then enter the shed from the weft supply side(Fig. la). This technique is widely used on narrow fabric looms and on carpet looms, but otherwise on a few special-purpose machines. If single picks are inserted then, of course, the normal range of weaves can be produced, but looms using this technique are slow running and it too is not often used (Fig. 1 b; for relative speeds see reference 1). Normally, two rapiers enter the shed from opposite ends a(ld the weft is transferred from one to the other when they meet, and they are-then withdrawn. In this way, the intervals for rapier insertion and for rapier withdrawal are both used for weft insertion. Invariably, on full width looms, only a single pick of yarn from a given supply package is inserted, but it may be inserted as a loop up to the time of transfer,

and the transferred loop straightened out during rapier withdrawal from the shed (the loop-transfer or Gabbler system). Yarn withdrawal from the weft package is thus completed at the time of transfer. This has the disadvantage

that prior to the transfer the rate of weft withdrawal from the up ply package is' high (it equals twice the rapier velocity), and subsequently it is zero; also after transfer the free end of the pick could untwist (Fig. 1 cO. Loop transfer was at one time widely used as it can facilitate the formation of semi-conventional selvedges, but it is now available as one of the options on only a few looms. With loop transfer the use of some form of weft accumulator is often standard. Thus, almost invariably it is the cut end of the weft which is transferred (end or tip transfer, also known as the Dewas system, Fig. 1 d). This entails incorporating yarn clamps in the head of both the giver and taker rapiers, instead of just yarn

Water-jet weaving machines were first developed in Czechoslovakia in the 1950s and Subsequently refined by the Japanese in the1960s.Water-jet weaving machines are Not used as frequently as air jets, but they are preferred for some types of fabrics. The process is unsuitable for yarns of hydrophilic fibers because the fabric picks up too much moisture. Water-soluble warp sizings are used on most staple warp yarns. Therefore, the use of water-jet looms is restricted to filament yarns of acetate, nylon, polyester, and glass; yarns that are non absorbent, and those that do not lose strength when wet. Furthermore, these fabrics come off the loom wet and must be dried. In this technique a water jet is shot under force and, with it, a weft yarn. The force of the water as it is propelled across the shed carries the yarn to the opposite side. This machine is economical in its operation. A water jet of only 0.1centimeter is sufficient to carry a yarn across a 48 inch shed. The amount of water required for each weft yarn is less than 2.0 cubic centimeters. Water-jet machines can reach speeds of 2,000 meters of picks per minute. The water-jet looms can produce superior high quality fabrics that have good appearance and feel.

Water jet loom

Both air and water jet weaving machines weave rapidly, provide for laying different colors in the weft direction, and produce uniform, high quality fabrics. They are less Noisy and require less space than most other types of weaving machines. They cause Minimal damage to warp yarns during the weaving operation, because the air or Water jets are less abrasive than moving metal parts. The speeds of shuttle less weaving machines can be compared by measuring the Picks per minute(ppm)or the yards laid per minute (ypm) in weft insertion.In 1990, The top speed for a projectile weaving machine was 420 ppm with between 1000 and 1203 ypm weft insertion. Flexible rapier weaving machines operated at 524 ppm and rigid rapiers at 475ppm, laying weft at upto 1404 and 930ypm, respectively. Air jets could lay as many as 1200 ppm and water jets upto 1500 ppm, laying 2145 and 2360 ypm , respectively. If a fabric 60 inches wide is woven on each machine at a density of 50 pice per inch, Approximately 84 yards of weft yarn would be needed to produce an inch of fabric. In theory, the projectile would produce approximately 8.4 inches of fabric per minute; the flexible rapier,10.5 inches; the rigid rapier, 9.5 inches; the air jet, 24 inches; and the water jet, 30inches.The slowest of the new machines could produce a yard of fabric in 4.3 minutes, and the fastest would take just 1.2 minutes. Seldom do weaving machines operate at full capacity, but even at 50percent efficiency such machines could produce a yard offabricevery2.5 minutes.