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Top of page, from left, scarves by Art Deco, Betsey Johnson and Richard Allen. Above, a Gucci oral-print scarf. Courtesy Gucci
have something like 15,000 scarves in our archive so it is difcult to have a favourite; but my father always considered the prints of his scarves of equal importance to those of his clothes, she says. A book celebrating the scarf has just been published by Thames and Hudson, boasting a fabulous fabric cover depicting a psychedelic 1960s creation by the British scarf designer Richard Allan. Beautifully illustrated with more than 250 images, Scarves by Nicky Albrechtsen
and Fola Solanke is a real treat for collectors, designers and anyone interested in how scarves reect the changes in fashion, design and society from the start of the 20th century to modern day. There is also a very helpful section on dating scarves and how to identify fakes. Generally collectors have an interest that appeals to them, such as motifs with references to animals, commemorative events, perfume, artists or a particular fashion or textile designer, says the costume de-
signer and vintage fashion retailer Solanke. The scarves in my collection are travel and propaganda scarves from the Second World War plus Franco Moschino scarves. While silk is often the fabric of choice, scarves in linen, cotton and fine synthetics are equally desirable if the design and label are considered collectable. The fabric often provides a pointer to the age of the scarf as, for example, silk was in short supply during the Second World War when it was com-
mandeered for the manufacture of parachutes. The denition of a luxury scarf depends on the fabric used,said Solanke. A silk twill is considered the best quality and is thick to the touch. The nishing of the scarfs edge is also a good indicator; hand-rolled plump hems are a mark of quality, although today luxury scarves sometimes feature ne silk fringing or machine stitched edges. The co-author Albrechtsen is also a costume designer and the owner
of Vintage Labels, a resource studio for designers, which has a vast collection of vintage scarves. They are picked for their beautiful prints or colour palettes and nearly all the designers who come to us will use these for inspiration. Recently design teams have been looking for single motifs that they can enlarge in scale and place on garments and scarves; 1970s geometrics have also been a trend. To ensure serious scarf investments retain their value, Albrechten warns against removing potentially annoying labels, Women often cut the label off a scarf because they detract from the design; as with any garment this devalues the item instantly; tacking them to lie flat would be better. This is good advice, indeed, as scarves are perfect heirloom items to pass down through the generations. They should be stored carefully away from direct sunlight and heat, and Pucci says the best way to keep scarves looking fresh and soft is to wash them by hand with mild soap. With time they get softer and their colours remain vibrant. Recently the popularity of the generous pashmina wrap has led the way to larger scarves, such as the coveted Louis Vuitton Monogramouflage Stephen Sprouse tribute scarf. This season the brand has introduced a new must-have print in the same format as the Sprouse design to coordinate with the designer Marc Jacobss autumn/winter 201112 collection. The collection also includes exotic iris and zebra-print traditional silk squares featuring lavish black leather tassels at each corner. Continuing the rectangular theme, the zodiac scarves of Amanda Wakeleys current collection have been flying off the shelves and are available online. My symbol scarves are already collectors items, says the designer, I am currently working on an Evil Eye collection, which is looking really gorgeous. Alexander McQueens bold skull print is another modern collectable design. The classic skull scarf rst appeared in the SS03 catwalk show and has since grown to become an iconic accessory of the brand, says the design director Sarah Burton, Our scarves are so popular that new designs are introduced seasonally where we incorporate the skull motif with the signature print of the season. The Floral Skull is looking to be a favourite this autumn and is available in silk chiffon and a cashmere silk mix. Inspiration for the season comes from nature, so weve used floral blossoms and wreaths and intertwined it with our skull motif for this design. Available online at net-a-porter. com, the Alexander McQueen scarves are big sellers. We have offered this skull print in so many colour and fabric combinations, yet its popularity is unwaning, says the buying director, Holli Rogers. We have a strong customer base in the UAE with scarves by Alexander McQueen, Jimmy Choo and Valentino the most popular. In years to come there will no doubt be generations still bidding for those elusive Herms and Gucci scarves alongside modern classics. Just remember not to cut those labels off if you want to start a serious collection.