Effect of creep behaviors between siro, double and commercial sewing threads before and after sewing process

S.Grace Annapoorani, Dr.B.S.Dasaradhan, Dr.V.Subramaniam and P.Kanakaraj.

Abstract : The creep and inverse creep behaviour of sewing thread before and after sewing process is studied with constant load in a developed instrument, where the sewing thread are subjected to dynamic tension and function in the sewing process. The commercial sewing threads of 24 & 60 Tex of polyester compared with SIRO and doubled yarn of cotton, polyester, viscose and polyester /viscose. There are some differences between the stress extension curves of the parent thread and the sewn thread, the stress inverse relaxation index for the SIRO viscose and doubled viscose sewing thread has greater than other threads and the inverse relaxation for polyester cotton core thread is smaller. The two-way ANOVA found that there is an significance difference in inverses creep behavior before and after sewing process and the creep and inverse creep before sewing process. Therefore, the extension and recovery length of sewing yarn varied before and after sewing process.

1. Introduction
Sewing thread properties are a major factor in the overall production of a garment. Thread is comprised of yarn, which determines the effectiveness. The more common sewing threads are cotton, polyester, nylon and rayon. The thread chosen for a particular garment does not only affect the life expectancy of that garment, but the over all design(2). In sewing process, dynamic tension and friction created over sewing threads and it is important for clothing manufacturer to know the effect of the visco elastic properties of a sewing thread and the dynamic tension in the stitch formation process. The recovery and inverse relaxation phenomena of polyester staple fibre rotor spun yarns has better fibre orientation, which resulted in higher permanent deformation and lower delayed elastic recovery of the thread(3). The inverse relaxation effect increased with the level of orientation of yarn in the sewing thread. The creep properties of sewing threads directly influence loads of threads in the stitch formation process(4). A research study stated that the mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads during high-speed sewing. The structural openness of the thread namely, the pull-out of fibers and the displacement of the plies at the thread interlocking point in the stitch were found to be the dominant factor which influence the strength reduction (5,6) cotton threads exhibit higher strength loss than polyester threads. It is important for clothing unit to know the visco elastic properties of a sewing thread and the dynamic tension in a stitch formation process. The present study aims to investigate the creep and inverse creep behavior of sewing thread at constant load and to compare them before and after sewing.

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Fig.: 1 Creep Apparatus.

Fig.:2 Schematic diagram Creep apparatus.

2.1. Design of instrument The instrument is designed in such a way that it can be used conventionally for results. The schematic diagram of the instrument is shown in Fig.1. The apparatus consists of an essentially of four elements named as (a) Adjustment device at the top of the instrument, (b) Scale to measure the load elongation Value, (c) Known weight and (d) Thread specimen in the centre. The sewing thread is fixed to a clamp and the lower end is suspended with a constant weight of 500 grams and observed for 30 min. The creep study of sewing thread was carried out independently to find out the effect of various durations of loading (maximum up to 500 gm) on creep as well as residual strength.

Table1: Commercial sewing thread details Brand Name

Epic Epic DD DD Astra Astra

2. Materials and methods

The commercial polyester core spun, polyester/cotton spun, staple spun polyester and SIRO cotton, viscose, polyester/viscose & Doubled cotton, viscose, Polyester/viscose sewing threads are selected for the present study showed in Table 1. In order to find out the creep behavior of sewing threads, an instrument developed using young modules Hooks Law/ Linear variable Differential Transformer (LVDT).

Composition
Polyester Core Spun Polyester Core Spun Polyester Cotton Spun Polyester Cotton Spun Staple Spun Polyester Staple Spun Polyester

Count (Tex)
24 60 24 60 24 60

Tkt No.
120 50 120 50 120 50

No. of Ply
3 3 3 3 3 3

Authors: S.Grace Annapoorani, Head, Department of Costume Design and Fashion, Bharathidasan College of Arts and Science, Erode. Dr.B.S.Dasaradhan, Assistant Professor, Department of Textile Technology, PSG college of Technology, Coimbatore. Dr.V.Subramaniam, Director, Jaya Engineering College, Chennai. P.Kanakaraj, Lecturer - Department of Fashion Technology, PSG college of Technology, Coimbatore.
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The mechanism of creep Table 2: Creep behaviors measured from Creep Apparatus apparatus can be explained Creep Inverse Creep in the following way. A conSample Before Sewing (A) After Sewing (B) Before Sewing (C) After Sewing (D) stant weight of 500 gm is Sewing yarn No. applied to the sewing thread Mean S.D Mean S.D Mean S.D Mean S.D samples to observe its creep 1 50.00 0.00 50.06 0.05 50.00 0.00 50.00 0.00 in the duration of 30 min. SIRO Cotton Readings are noted for every SIRO Poly/viscose 2 51.36 1.22 51.16 0.89 51.36 1.22 51.16 0.89 5 min. for parent thread and SIRO viscose 3 50.50 0.24 50.44 0.26 50.60 0.10 50.61 0.13 sewn thread (Needle thread, 4 50.29 0.17 50.34 0.18 50.41 0.09 50.44 0.05 Bobbin thread). The slippage Doubled Cotton of the thread is time depend- Doubled Viscose 5 51.31 1.06 51.39 1.09 52.57 0.35 52.11 0.40 ent and goes on until the 6 50.51 0.26 50.56 0.32 50.55 0.24 50.69 0.29 stress distribution becomes Doubled Poly/viscose uniform throughout the Epic 50 7 50.17 0.11 50.29 0.20 49.63 0.08 49.83 0.11 specimen. When the Dual Duty 50 8 50.20 0.12 50.21 0.13 49.83 0.11 49.89 0.09 stretched specimen is allowed 9 50.24 0.15 50.21 0.12 49.53 0.08 49.50 0.24 to retract, this process is Astra 50 reversed, because the stress Epic 120 10 50.00 0.00 50.07 0.05 50.00 0.00 48.80 0.08 now tends to get reduced Dual Duty 120 11 50.13 0.11 50.23 0.14 49.46 0.20 49.63 0.21 equally throughout the reading. Thus, during the process Astra 120 12 50.00 0.00 50.16 0.08 48.73 0.05 48.71 0.04 of dynamic loading there are visco elastic effects, which will influence relaxation and creep Table 3: Two-way ANOVA analysis of the behavior.

Creep - before and after sewing process

Between Creep (A) and (B)

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3. Result and discussion

Creep Behavior The application of a load on sewing thread, after an instantaneous extension will continue to extend as time goes on; one the removal of the load, the recovery will not be limited to the instant recovery but will continue to take place further. The extension / reduction in length of the yarn are measured in various samples each seven test from 0 min. to 30 min. are plotted in Table -2 as mean & S.D. and Fig. 3 The changes for the application of a constant load (500gm) to a sewing thread for a given time (30 min) and then removing the load. The instantaneous extension was followed by creep. The removal of the load gave rise to an instantaneous recovery followed by partial recovery with time and still left some unrecovered extension.
Factor F Value Sewing yarn Creep Sewing yarn*Creep F(11,144) F(1,144) F(11,144) 13.060 0.219 0.145 P Value 5.55E-17 0.640 0.999

Creep behaviour of sewing thread before sewing

Siro cotton before sewing Doubled cotton before sewing Sire viscose before sewing Doubled Viscose before sewing Siro Poly/viscose before sewing Doubled Polyviscose before sewing Epic 120 before sewing Epic 50 before sewing Dual duty 120 before sewing Dual duty 50 before sewing Astra 120 before sewing Astra 50 before sewing Time (Min.)

The Fig.: 3a & 3b shows that, the creep behavior of the sewing thread in these graph X- axis time (o to 30 min.) and in Yaxis the extension length and recovery length in centimeter. The creep behavior before and after sewing process,100% viscose sewing yarn made of SIRO and doubled were the highest extension length compared to other threads. In the same trend happens in inverse creep (recovery length). This may be because of elasticity property of the viscose fiber. In inverse creep of sewing thread before and after the sewing process there is a slight variations in the trend of the curve among the various material. The test results were under gone two-way ANOVA analysis with respect to (1) Creep - before and after sewing process (2) Inverse creep - before and after sewing process, (3) Creep before sewing and Inverse creep - before sewing process, (4) Creep - after sewing and Inverse creep - after sewing process.

Creep behaviour of sewing thread after sewing Siro cotton after sewing Doubled cotton after sewing Sire viscose after sewing Doubled Viscose after sewing Siro Poly/viscose after sewing Doubled Polyviscose after sewing Epic 120 after sewing Epic 50 after sewing Dual duty 120 after sewing Dual duty 50 after sewing Astra 120 after sewing Astra 50 after sewing Time (Min.)

Effect between different sewing yarn and creep - before and after sewing process
Table. 3 shows the results of creep before and after sewing samples from SIRO, doubled and commercial yarns. The effects of yarn type creep before & after sewing and the interaction between yarn and creep, measures were analysed by the twoway ANOVA to examine the statistical significance. When comparing the creep (A) and (B) sewing yarn made of different material and creep behaviors before & after sewing were highly not significant (P=5.55E-17 & 0.640 respectively). In addition, the interaction between the yarn and creep measures of sewing thread also not significantly difference. (P=0.999).

Fig. 3a: Creep before and after sewing process.

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Effect between different sewing yarn and Inverse creep - before & after sewing process
The inverse creep before & after sewing process of sewing thread analysed statistically the various thread with respect to inverse creep and the interaction between the thread with inverse creep there is no significant difference was found the results were shown in table 4. (P=2.1E-63 & 1.55E-05 respectively). However, the inverses creep before and after sewing process has significant difference. (F(1,144) = 3.954, P=0.048 & Alpha=0.05)

The P-value found that 0.0122 in between creep behavior (creep & Inverse creep before sewing process) this could be in highly significant difference. So, the extension & recovery length of sewing yarn varied before and after sewing process.

Effect between different sewing yarn and creep& inverse creep - after sewing process
The out put of the creep apparatus value are treated between the sewing material and extension length (Creep & Inverse creep after sewing process) was given in the table 6. Which shows that the within material, winthin the creep behaviors and the interaction between the treatments were highly not significant difference. The value of P >0.05 (1.14E-40, 4.11E-07 and 9.85E-13 respectively).

Table 4: Two-way ANOVA analysis of the inverse creep - before and after sewing process
Between Inverse creep (C) and (D) Factor Sewing yarn Inverse Creep F Value F (11,144) F (1,144) 106.476 3.954 4.296 P Value 2.1 E-63

Table 6: Two-way ANOVA analysis of the Creep - after sewing and Inverse creep - after sewing process
Factor Between Creep behavior (B) and (D) F Value F(11,144) F(1,144) 44.190 28.172 9.501 P Value 1.14E-40 4.11E-07 9.85E-13

0.048 1.55E-05 Sewing yarn Creep behavior

Sewing yarn*Inverse Creep F (11,144)

Effect between different sewing yarn and creep and inverse creep - before sewing process
The effect of creep before and inverse creep before sewing process were tabulated in the same way of above cases. The various Inverse Creep behaviour of sewing thread before sewing sewing Siro cotton before sewing yarn made Doubled cotton before sewing of differSire viscose before sewing ent mateDoubled Viscose before sewing Siro Poly/viscose before sewing rial & Doubled Polyviscose before sewing count has Epic 120 before sewing no signifiEpic 50 before sewing cant difDual duty 120 before sewing Dual duty 50 before sewing ference Astra 120 before sewing (P=4.66EAstra 50 before sewing 37) and the interTime (Min.) action Inverse Creep behaviour of sewing thread after sewing between the factor Siro cotton after sewing and treatDoubled cotton after sewing ments Sire viscose after sewing Doubled Viscose after sewing such as Siro Poly/viscose after sewing sewing Doubled Polyviscose after sewing yarn and Epic 120 after sewing creep Epic 50 after sewing Dual duty 120 after sewing behaviors Dual duty 50 after sewing have no Astra 120 after sewing difference Astra 50 after sewing in this case conTime (Min.) cerned.
Fig. 3b: Inverse creep before & after sewing process.

Sewing yarn*Creep behavior F(11,144)

Conclusion

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An apparatus to measure the creep and inverse creep behavior of the sewing thread were developed. The percentage of extension and relaxation varies from one sewing thread to another depending on the composition of the thread. From the ANOVA results The inverses creep behavior before and after sewing process has some significant difference based on the P-Value @ Alpha=0.05 (F(1,144) = 3.954, P=0.048). The sewing thread extension and relaxation length varied based on the sewing process. The value of creep & Inverse creep before sewing process, found that P=0.0122 in between creep behavior, this could be in highly significant difference. Therefore, the extension & recovery length of sewing yarn varied before and after sewing process.

Reference
1. 2. Patty Brown and Janett Rice, Ready-to-Wear Apparel Analysis (3rd Edition) Prentice Hall 2001. Manich A.N and Castellar, M.D.E Elastic recovery and inverse relaxation of polyester staple fibre Rotor spun yarns, Textile Research Journal, 1992, Vol.62, PP.196 9 Gersak.J. and Knez.B Reduction in thread Strength as a cause of loading in the sewing process. International Journal of clothing science and Technology, 1991, Vol.3, PP.6 12 G. Sundaresan, P.K. Hari, K.R. Salhotra, Strength reduction of sewing threads during high speed sewing in an industrial lockstitch machine: Part I - mechanism of thread strength reduction International Journal of clothing science and Technology,1997,Vol-9, Issue-5,pp-334-345. G. Sundaresan, P.K. Hari, K.R. Salhotra, Strength reduction in sewing threads during high speed sewing in industrial lockstitch machine: Part II: Effect of thread and fabric properties International Journal of clothing science and Technology,1998,Vol-10, Issue-1,pp-64-79. Morton, W.E and Wearle. J.W.S physical Properties of Textile fibres Butterworths and the textile institute, Manchester and London, 1962.

3.

4.

Table 5: Two-way ANOVA analysis of the Creep- before sewing and Inverse creep - before sewing process
Factor Sewing yarn Creep behavior Between Creep behavior (A) and (C) F Value P Value F(11,144) F(1,144) 37.825 6.435 7.130 4.66E-37 0.0122 1.35E-09

5.

6.

Sewing yarn* Creep behavior F(11,144)

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