Finishing: All the processes after knitting and weaving to fabric transportation for garments making are termed

as finishing process. The main purpose of finishing process is treating the fabric with chemicals that changes the property of the fibers. The change in fiber property is achieved by various chemical and mechanical treatment of the fabric. Objects of Finishing: The objects of finishing process are briefly discussed below: Finishing process is done to improve properties and performance of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve attractiveness of the fabric which is achieved by
improving luster, whiteness of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve quality of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve hand feel of the fabric which is achieved by softening, stiffening and wetting of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve appearance of the fabric which is achieved by Calendaring, Optical brightening of the fabric. Finishing process is done to reduce faults of the fabric. Finishing process is done to maintain the buyer recommended dimension of the fabric. Finishing process is done to match the ordered shade of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve wearing quality of the fabric. Finishing process is done to facilitate special properties to the fabric which is achieved by providing water proof, flame proof properties to the fabric.

Types of Finishing: There are mainly two types of finishing process. Such are discussed below: Physical Finishing: Physical finishing is the process of treating the fabric by various mechanical processes for improving the property of the fabric. Physical treatment causes temporary change to the fabric property. Physical or mechanical process is done by Stenter, Dryer, Compactor, Squeezing, and Slitting etc. machines. Chemical Finishing: Chemical finishing is the process of treating the fabric by processing with various chemicals to improve the property of the fabric. Chemical treatment causes permanent changer to the fabric property. Chemical treatment is done by applying various chemicals for processing of the fabric such as; Softeners, Anti creasing, Antifoaming, Enzymes and also other various chemicals.

Finishing

Physical Finishing

Chemical Finishing

Temporary Calendaring

Permanent Raising

Temporary Starching

Permanent Resin Finish, Softening, Mercerization, Water Repellency, Flame Retardency.

Finishing calculations: To achieve the required GSM and diameter according to buyer specification the machines diameter is set at cm or mm value. So the diameter set up of machines follow the calculations given below: Fabric required diameter in mm = Fabric dia in inch 25.4 Fabric required diameter in cm = Fabric dia in inch 2.54 GSM of the fabric for 5% shrinkage =

 The Machines used in the finishing in ECHOTEX: The machines which are used in the ECHOTEX Dye house are given below:
Machine Name
Squeezing Machine Slitting Machine Stenter Weft Straightener Dryer Open Width Compactor Tubular Fabric Compactor Turning Machine

Machine Brand
CORINO MACCHINE CORINO MACCHINE ICOMATEX MAHLO ICOMATEX FERRARO FABCON BEKENS Fabric Reversing Machine

Machine Model Manufacturing Year

ST4-A 2008

Type

MATR. 157/08

APRICORDATAGLIERINA 544 543

2008 2008 2003 2003

MATR. 155/08 FL3 IC10

Comptex-Re 2800 _ _

2008 2008 _

MATR. 5315 _ _

Chemical Treatment Process: Softeners: Softening treatment is one of the most important chemical after treatments in the textile industry. By softening treatment textile can achieve not only soft handle but also: a) Some smoothness. b) More flexibility. c) Drape and Pliability. d) Antistatic properties. e) Luster. f) Soft handle. Types of softeners: There are mainly four types of softeners which are discussed below: Cationic Softeners. Anionic Softeners. Non-ionic Softeners. Silicon-based Softeners. Cationic Softener: Cationic softeners are mostly used in a textile industry. Cationic softeners are mainly positively charged softeners. They are mainly quaternary ammonium salts, amino-esters and amino-amides. These softeners are allowed to apply to all kinds of textiles. But these softeners can sometimes cause yellowing effect on the white fabric. Cationic softeners should be applied in acidic condition (pH 4-5). To maintain the acidic condition acetic acid or green acid is applied. Cationic softeners are also called molecular velveting agent because they form bond with negative electric potential of fabric surface. Anionic Softeners: Anionic softeners are mainly negatively charged softeners. Most of the fibers contain negative charge when in contact with water, so the fibers repulse them causing poor exhaustion then cationic softeners. These softeners can be applied where cationic softeners are restricted. These softeners cannot be applied by exhaustion method instead of that padding method is applied. These softeners have good stability to cellulosic fibers. Anionic softeners should be applied in acidic condition (pH >7). To maintain alkaline medium additional alkali is added. Mainly Sulphate, Sulphonates, Sulphosuccinates and Soaps are anionic softeners.

Nonionic Softeners: Nonionic softeners are neutrally charged softeners. These softeners can be applied to most fabrics but mainly for white fabrics. These softeners have lubricating, Antistatic and scooping properties. Mainly Polyglycol Esters Oxiethylate products, Paraffins and Fats are anionic softeners. Silicone Based Softeners: These softeners are insoluble in water. These softeners must be applied after the dissolution in organic solvents or in the form of disperse product. These softeners create a lubricating and water proof film on the fabric surface. These softeners also give the fabric a velvety-silky handle and very high softness. These softeners provide good elastic resilience, crease recovery, abrasion resistance and tear strength. Mechanism of Softening: Softeners mainly react with the surface of the fibers inside the fabric. The softener molecules penetrate into the fiber forming polymer by reducing the glass transition temperature of the fiber forming polymer and gives a plasticized layer to the fiber. The physical arrangement of the softener molecules depend on the ionic nature of the softener and the hydrophobic nature of the fiber surface. The positively charged cationic softeners orient themselves towards the negatively charged fibers by creating a new surface of hydrophobic carbon chain for which excellent softening and lubricating property is seen on the fabric. Anionic softeners are negatively charged which causes them to keep away from the negatively charged fiber surface which makes the softeners more hydrophilic in nature but causes less softening than cationic softeners. The orientation of non-ionic softeners depends on the nature of the fiber surface, with the hydrophilic portion of the softener being attracted to hydrophilic surfaces and the hydrophobic portion being attracted to hydrophobic surfaces.

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(a) Cationic softening mechanism. (b) Anionic softening mechanism. (c) Nonionic softening mechanism at hydrophobic surface. (d) Nonionic softening mechanism at hydrophilic surface.

Softeners used in ECHOTEX industries: There are mainly three types of softeners used in ECHOTEX dye house as follows: a) Cationic Softeners. b) Nonionic Softeners. c) Silicone based Softeners.

Softening products
1. Sapamine CWS 2. Basosoft FEUK 3. Tubingal MSQ 1. Sapamine KLNew 2. Siligen SIH Nano 3. ASL-3000 4. Tubingal1112 1. Tubingal RGH 2. Parapret F-PEB 3. Arristone 64 4. Megasoft SMD

Class
Cationic Softeners Nonionic Softeners 1.

Functons
Used for dyed fabric softening

1. Used for white fabric softening. 2. Sometimes used for dyed fabric softening 1. Used for softening. 2. Increasing luster of the fabric. 3. Sometimes used for fabric shade matching.

Silicone softeners

 Softener applying process: The system which is followed by ECHOTEX dyehouse is given below: The total liquor taken for softener chemical application should be 1/3 of the weight of the fabric, that is, If a fabric weight is x gm then the total liquor should be = Normally in ECHOTEX chemicals are added as = 25-35 gm/l
Recipe of Cationic Softeners: Cationic Softener- 30-35 gm/l Acid- 0.5-1 gm/l Water- Rest Total- 1000cc Recipe of Nonionic Softeners: Nonionic Softener- 30-35 gm/l Water- Rest Total- 1000cc Recipe of Silicone Softeners: Cationic Softener- 30-35 gm/l Silicone Softener- 15-35 gm/l Water- Rest Total- 1000cc

gm.

Check Points of Padder Softening inECHOTEX: The points which are regularly checked during softening in the Squeezing Machine are given below: pH should be within the range of 5-5.5. Acetic Acid is added at 40gm/l- 50gm/l in 200litrer to 300litre water. Temperature should not be high during dissolving Silicone Softeners and mixer motor are not used during dissolving, but are stirred carefully. Padder should be clean during applying softeners. For most colors Sapamine CWS 25gm/l and Tubingal MSQ 15 gm/l are applied except white fabric softening.

Mechanical or Physical Treatment: Weft Straightening: The main principle of weft straightening is to straighten the yarn and fabric Spirality which is done by allowing the over feed to hold the yarn for passing through a longer path by width stretcher and which is done by screw distortion. The straightened fabric is then passed through the change preventive roller which confirms the straightness of the fabric. Spirality of the fabric is treated by passing the fabric where one bowing roller passes the fabric at negative speed and bowing roller passes the fabric at positive speed. The calculation of weft straightening is given below: R=

R= Straightened effect in cm. r= Straightened effect per pulse in cm. i=no. of pulse per min. L=Strenter length in meter/min. V= Basic speed in meter/min.

Fabric Feed

Scanner Drive Roller

Centering Roller Compensator Roller Width Stretcher Roller Width Expander Roller Width Change Preventive Roller

Figure: Weft Straightener Machine.

Over feed: Over feed device are mainly seen in stenters and compactors. It is used to allow lengthways shrinkage during fabric tensioning. Overfeed devices contains two pairs of powered rollers located above the clip chains, which feed the fabric to the chains at a higher speed than the chains are capable of. This means that the fabric edges are fed onto pins while they are in a crimped position. Clip stenters have specially constructed clips with slits. If the overfeed is

increased GSM of the fabric increases and if the overfeed speed is reduced GSM of the fabric reduces.

Over feed roller Three finger selvedge uncurler IR Sensor

Pinning Roller Brush Roller

Pin Bar Finger Feed Fabric Support Roller

Figure: Over Feed Device of Stenter & Open Compactor Machines.

Chain Rails: Cast iron chain is provided for guiding the fabric through the conveyer belt while passing the fabric through the Stenter conveyer where heat is applied for controlling the GSM of the fabric. While passage of the fabric the fabric is attached with the pointed pins and the clip is pulled on the fabric to properly attach the fabric with the pin. The clip helps the pins to hold the fabric through the entire process of the conveyer passage. The values for the _ Average degree of polymerization DP are different depending on the measuring process. The nitrate values (decomposition by nitration) are almost always 10% higher than the cuoxam values (decomposition by solution in cuoxam). Staudinger described this phenomenon as chain length difference CLD and the Chain length is measure by following calculation: Chain length Difference (%) =

100.

Fabric Attaching Pins Fabric Holding Clip

Figure: Chain rail of Stenter & Open Compactor Machines.

Hot Air Circulation System: In Stenter and Dryer machines air is recirculated which passes from the exhaust stubs and air controller flaps. Then the air is passed over the nozzles through which fabric is passed and routes it over to the heat exchanger which lets the air to be heated by the burner. The circulating air fan allows the hot air to pass uniformly through the nozzles to the fabric where the air controller flaps control the upper and lower nozzle air and thus the fabric is heated. Finally the used hot air is passed on to the exhaust air duct.

Exhaust Sluts

Nozzles Controller Flaps Fabric Guide Heat Exchanger

Circulating Air Chain Rail Burner

Circulating Air Fan

Figure: Hot air circulating system of Stenter & Dryer..

Dryer Machine: Dryer machine is used for removing the residual water contained in the fabric after squeezing by applying heat on the fabric. In this machine the fabric is fed on the drying net at low over feed speed and the humidity is continuously measured. Drying is done by applying heat through burner nozzles. During drying the total heat passed through the machine is extracted by the exhaust fan. Functions: 1. To dry the fabric with the help of blower and burner. 2. To control the shrinkage of the fabric. 3. To prepare the fabric for next subsequent process. 4. To dry fabric without tension. 5. To remove residual water containing in the fabric. Main parts of the machine: 1. Drying Net. 2. Heating Chamber:

3. Blower. 4. Burner. 5. Free Roller. 6. Centering Roller. 7. Scroll Roller. 8. Folder. 9. Rubber Belt for fabric delivery. 10. Exhaust fan. Temperature of fabric drying:
The temperature of fabric drying increases with the increasing GSM, but the over feed speed decreases.
Fabric Type S/J PK 1x1 Rib 2x2 Rib Color White Dyed White Dyed White Dyed White Dyed Speed 10 8 10 12 -15 15 7 -8 7-8 7 -8 7-8 Over Feed 15 -20 15 - 20 30 30 10 10 20 20 Temperature 1200C 120 C -1300C 1200C 0 120 C -1400C 1200C -1400C 1300C-1400C 1200C 0 120 C -1300C
0

Stretch (%) 35% 35% 50% 50% 20% 20% 25% 25%

Over Feed

Free Roller Heating Nozzle Exhaust Fan Line

Rubber Belt Delivery roller

Scroll Roller

Folder Drying Net

Centering Roller

Blower

Burner

Figure: Dryer Machine.

Squeezing & Slitting Machine: Squeezing machine is used for extracting water from dyed fabric by squeezing through rollers having different pressure. Squeezer machine designed to extract water from piece goods treated in
rope form. They are used as an intermediate devices such as washers or autonomous devices. In the latter case they are usually full-width squeezers. The first padder rollers gives proper squeeze to the fabric and extracts the water and the second squeeze roller passes the fabric half the speed of the first squeeze roller which causes the softener chemicals tro properly pass into the fabric.

Function of the Machine: 1. To reduce fabric surface water content. 2. Squeezing the fabric for proper softening chemical penetration. 3. Applying softening chemicals to the fabric. Main parts of the machine: Twister. Polyreference or Centering roller. Bello. Bello Alarm. Chemical Tank. Tension roller Squeezing roller. Guide Belt. Guide Roller. Over feed and Padder pressure of Squeezing Machine: Squeezing temperature and speed is given below: Fabric Type Speed Over Padder Feed Pressure 1
Single Jersey 11 Rib 22 Rib 60m/min80m/min 30m/min40m/min 20m/min2.5%-3% 2.5%-3% 2.5%-3% 1.5bar(Chemical)2 bar(Normal) 1.25bar(Chemical)3 bar(Normal) 1.25bar(Chemical)-

Padder Pressure 2
3bar(Chemical)4 bar(Normal) 2.5bar(Chemical)3 bar(Normal) 2.5bar(Chemical)-

Loop Back

30m/min 20m/min30m/min

2.5%-3%

3 bar(Normal) 1.5bar(Chemical)2 bar(Normal)

3 bar(Normal) 3bar(Chemical)4 bar(Normal)

Centering roller Twister Bello

Padder Chemical tank Tension roller

Figure: Squeezing Machine:

Stenter Machine: The Stenter machine consist of 7 drying chambers, padder rollers and a weft straightening section which enables the machine to control Spirality, Shrinkage, GSM during the fabric passage. During processing first the fabric is passed through the padding section or squeezer for properly squeezing the fabric and processing softening treatment of the fabric through feed roller and guide roller. Then it goes through the weft straightening section where by bowing roller fabric spirality is controlled and then passed through chain rail for shrinkage control. Purpose of the m/c: To make the fabric dry For heat setting in case of Lycra, Viscose fabric To Control Fabric GSM To control Shrinkage To Control Spirality To control fabric Diameter To make the fabric soft by applying chemical Width control

Main parts: Heating Chamber. Blower Width Control Device. Biasing Unit Selvedge Trimming Device. Softener Application Tank. Divider Box Guide roller. Finger Roller. Rider Brush. Blower. Over feed Roller. Bowing Roller. Photocell.

Exhaust Fan

Finger roller Guide roller

Wheel Burner Chain rail Nozzle Blower

Figure: Stenter Machine.

 Process flow & machine arrangement in finishing section:

Dyed fabric

Sewing to make the fabric rolls continuous

Tube finishing

Open finishing

Squeezing (Chemical & Softener treatment) Drying (Only heating & G.S.M control)

Slitting to make open fabric (Chemical & Softener treatment) Stentering (G.S.M control, heat setting, Squeezing & chemical treatment)

Turning (Only for single jersey fabric) Compacting (G.S.M control to meet buyers requirements)

Compacting (G.S.M control to meet buyers requirements)

Quality Control