Colonial Philadelphia - - By HAROLD DONALDSON EBERLEIN and CORTLANDT VAN DYKE HUBBARD

No. 21, Laurel Hill

CONSPICUOUS among the old countryseats in Fairmount Park on the east bank of the Schuylkill is Laurel Hill. Not far from Woodford and Strawberry Mansion and separated from Ormiston by a deep, wooded combe, it stands on a high bluff overlooking the river, commanding a unexcelled view up and down stream. Named for Foliage Laurel Hill takes its name from the luxuriant growth of laurel that once covered the bluffs along the river at that point. It should not be confused with the Laurels, the country seat of Joseph Sims nearby, demolished when that property was taken for Laurel Hill Cemetery in 1838. Laurel Hill, though not so large as some of the neighboring houses, is a striking example of Georgian architecture. At the northern end of the house, a transverse wing with semioctagonal ends Courtesy of J. B. LippIncott Company relieves the angularity of the exRawle and Shoemaker families measures against the Loyalists an terior and affords opportunity for an divided their time in Summer Mr. Shoemaker's property beapartment of noble elegance. This among the first to claim their n tween wing is of later date. The east or Laurel Hill and Mr. Shoetice. State agents seized Laurel Hil maker's own estate in Germantown, front door opens directly into a galand continuing to spend much of their allowed the President of lery or hall extending across the State, General Joseph Reed ocl to time at front of the house. At one end is Laurel Hill until the British cupy the premises. His active an Army occupied Philadelphia. the stair, turning in several flights: When British forces occupied Phil- mosity had already been vis at the other a door opens into the adelphia in the Autumn of 1777, upon the Shoemakers and Rawle at parlor, a room of splendid dimenthe request of Sir William Howe, Mr. and their letters and diaries spe sions with semioctagonal bays at of him with scant regard. the ends. On the long northShoemaker, along with his friend, side is a handsome fireplace; a door Joseph Galloway, took charge of the When zeal against the Loyalis cn had somewhat abated the autho city's his the opposite side, balancing the civil affairs. Because ofties matter of Laurel Hill to city under door from the hall, opens intohelpingthe administer the State Leg- viewed the and saw that the tit the more calmly Howe, Pennsylvania dining room, which overlooks islature declared Mr. Shoemaker andwas still vested in Mrs. Shoemaker the river. The interior woodwork is adAfter other prominent citizens guilty of some negotiations with Major mirably wrought and well preserved. Parr high treason and all their estatesand the Chevalier, the est Joseph Shute, who owned much was restored to its rightful owner forfeit unless they surrendered land round about, is said to have After this, Mrs. Shoemaker c themselves by April 20, built Laurel Hill about 1748. In 1760,Mr. Shoemaker did . 1778. This not do. tinued to occupy Laurel Hill; M Just Frances Rawle bought the estate for Rawle had his own seat, Harleig before the British Army evacuated his countryseat, and the place began nearby. In 1828, as trustee under his Philadelphia in June, 1778, he sailed to figure in history. In 1756 Francis the fleet for New York. William mother's will, William Rawle so with Rawle had married Rebecca, the then 19, and about to begin Laurel Hill to Dr. Philip Rawle, daughter of Edward Warner. He died his legal studies, accompanied Physick. From him the estate passed his in 1761 in a hunting accident, leavto his descendants, the Randolph stepfather. ing Laurel Hill to his wife. They retained it until th Estate Seized bought it to include in Fairmou Families Combined Directly the RevolutionaryPark in 1869. auTn 1767 Mrs. Rawle married thorities returned to Philadelphia. TuesdayBellaire Samuel Shoemaker, and the united directed strenuous confiscation they

EVENING PUBLIC LEDGER PHILA

Colonial Philadelphia

No. 13. Ury House

Courtesy of J. B. Lippdncott Company

By Harold Donaldson Eberlein and first addition to the original The to west and divides it into building was made in 1728. parts. Cartlandt Van Dyke Hubbard Miers Fisher set about improve Besides founding the g URY HOUSE, on Pine Road near ments when he established him- Fisher planted a sp Miers self at the old village of Fox Chase, em- Ury soon after the Revolu- avenue of white pines f double tion. on gate to the house, bodies one of the earliest structures He built the parlorsthe the west side of the house, with much else to make Ury Ho if not, indeed, the earliestin all bedrooms above them, and the well-appointed country seat o Pennsylvania. In just what year made sundry other additions. To day. Some of the white pine the oldest part of the house was give some degree of uniformity the avenue still remain. in to built, it is impossible to say. north front, with its two older the All Fisher entertained at Ury the l existing evidences and tradition, three-story buildings at the .east and scientists of Phila ing men however, point to a date someand center, he tried the expedient and the eminent str phia, where about 1645 for the building of a row of sham windowswho frequented the city during at the of the Swedish fort or blockhouse, of what is now the entrance west years when it was the cap the nucleus around which the rest hall. the United States. Among of the structure has grown. These came Thomas Jeffer The story goes that a Swedish windows were the occasion planted ship bearing colonists to settle inof much merriment andon the south lawn a p many witticisms, based on the tree, which bore prolifically New Sweden, coming up the Delaabsence of window glass, and the it was blown down by a Wi ware at night, unwittingly wags expressed constant surprise sailed storm in 1928. General Was past the intended landing at the that a man so noted for his ton, too, visited at Ury and ha hosmouth of the Christiana. At days untoward experience at supp light, the colonists foundpitality as Miers Fisher should them- guests with champagne greet his was early in June, when the str selves opposite the mouth of and no Pen- glasses. berries from the garden w nypack Creek. They landed and their best. Unfortunately, , The camped on the first rising groundFishers presumably used the excitement over the distingui ground beyond the fiats along the river floor of the old Swedish guest, somebody mistook sa fort as the is now bank. Here they built the fort kitchen; what powdered sugar, and the great m the hall (in the 1728 addition) which became the heart of the got his berries "sugared" with was their dining room. present Ury House. In 1841, Stephen Rowan C In the cellar of the house there the alteration and raising Since fordthe grandfather of the p was a forge, a bake oven was set of the ceiling, the Swedes' Hall has ent ownersbought Ury House a in the kitchen wall, and there been the dining room. were made further extensive ch sleeping quarters in the upper the best things Miers One of and additions. In 1860, Mrs. Cr story. Thither the settlers came at Ury was to plan and Fisher did ford started a boys' boarding sch from their surrounding cabins to establish the "six-square" garden, at bake their bread, shoe their horses, southeast of the house Ury and continued it until 1 to the and when it was moved and became weld their farm implements and sheltered by it from the sweep of Bustleton. It was afterw Luke's, mold their leaden bullets. the northwest winds. Many of the When moved again and bec need arose, the fort gaveold gardens were laid out in four refuge Luke's, Wayne, the immediate p from hostile Indians, orwhat is compartments; six is a rather un- of the present Valley Fo genitor much more likelyfrom interlop- number. This garden, symusual Military Academy. ing Dutchmen from the Hudson. metrically arranged, is inclosed by The Swedes usually preserved a high, thick boxwood hedge. A friendly relations with all the Inbox-edged walk, shaded by aarticle on Colonial The next dians. grape-covered trellis, runs the enPhiladelphia will be about Cedar For many years in one oflength of the garden from east tire the Grove. fireplaces there was an Swedish , o3 ' iron fireback bearing the arms of Gustavus Adolphus, but this has disappeared, The fort was so massively built of stone that in 1899, when it was necessary to make some interior changes in Ury House, the workmen had to use dynamite to make any impression on the masonry.

EVENING PUBLIC
By HAROLD DONALDSON EBERLEIN and CORTLANDT VAN DYKE HUBBARD

Colonial Philadelphia

No. 14Cedar Grove

SINCE 1927 Cedar Grove has been one of the Colonial and postColonial houses preserved in Fairmount Park. At that time it was taken down, stone by stone, removed from its original site at Harrogate, near Frankford, and with meticulous care re-erected on Lansdowne Drive, hard by Memorial Hall. In 1714, Thomas Coates, of Philadelphia, bought and farmed nearly 300 acres of land, adjoining the lands of Chalkley Hall on the east. At his death in 1719, the inventory of his property shows, this farm at Harrogate was well stocked with domestic animals and implements but had no dwelling except farmer's quarters. Elizabeth Coates, who inherited a part of her father's Harrogate property, married Joseph Paschall in 1721 and built the oldest part of Cedar Grove, three principal rooms Courtesy of . 13. Lippincott Company the parlor or living room (now dwindled to a much smaller open- lowed and added the testimon the dining room), the bedroom of broken plates to the unwisdom above, and the original kitchen ining with a mantelpiece. of mixing drinks. The name Harthe one-story extension at the Stayed the Night rogate was given because rear. By 1795 the prejudice against analysis of the springs there wa Rest Shelter spending the night in country air the same as that of Harrog Small and unpractical, it was disappeared, and Cedar Grove waters in England. had not intended for a dwelling, merely was thenceforth the family resi- Until 1888, when the rapid ena shelter for rest and refreshment dence during much of the year. croachment of the ctiy, with when the owner or any members An amusing chapter might be smoke - belching factories a of the family spent the day at the screaming railroads obliged th written about the festivities that farm. took place at Harrogate Inn near-great-great-grandchildren of ElizMrs. Paschall's accounts for ma- by. In its heyday, rosy-cheeked, abeth Coates Paschall to vaca terials bought and work done show fair-haired German lads Cedar Grove, neither cookstov and that she made substantial addilasses, for whom Monday was the nor boiler ever found their wa tions to Cedar Grove in 1752. In into hebdomadal holiday, resorted the house; all the cooki 1767 Elizabeth Coates Paschall's was done over an open wood fire thither weekly. They usually arson Isaac married Patience Mifin rived in the morning, drank beer the great fireplace where hung flin and Cedar Grove ultimately danced. a full complement of cranes, cauland drons and all other antique cookwent to their daughter Sarah, In the afternoon an Irish conwho married Isaac Wistar Morris ing paraphernalia. tingent from Port Richmond in 1795. It was at this time that would appear, previously forti- When Cedar Grove was erected in Fairmount Park, Mis Cedar Grove took its present form. fied for the long journey from A joint in the masonry up the beyond Gunnars Run (something Lydia Morristhe last surv ing middle of the front indicates the more than a mile) by repeated member of her branch of th familyreplaced in the old house width was doubled and six winimbibings of whisky. Their aim all dows provided across the upper was to cut out the "Dutchies,"the furniture, so that all floor. On the ground floor of the they called them, gainrooms are now equipped exactly as for as themselves the smiles and favor they were when occupied by the new part were a parlor and, back of the of it, a large kitchen; the upper Teuton maids and supplant family of Harrogate. This is tru even floor provided two more bedrooms, the German waltz by the Irish to the least item of kitche equipment. jig. with an attic. The former livingroom became the dining room.Named for Waters reached through the old kitchen; Confusion and heartaches, ifThe next article on Colonial the latter became the "ironing Philadelphia will be about Mill nothing worse, always resulted; room" and its great fireplace Grove. and worse almost invariably fol-

EVENING PUBLIC L

Colonial Philadelphia
L
By Harold Donaldson Eberlein and Cortlandt Van Dyke Hubbard

No. 11. Chalkley Hall.

I THE upper part of Chalkley Hall J is visible from the windows of , trains on the New York division of in the Pennsylvania Railroad, just after passing Frankford Junction, st going toward New York. It is down a! in the Y formed by the embankfc ments of the New York division and the branch turning off to the Delaware River Bridge. Before the encroachments of railways and industrial plants it was one of the fi stateliest seats in all the region round Pniladelphia. It is now dismantled and surrounded by manuf facturing establishmentsdoomed, I unless civic pride can compass its removal and restoration. Restored and re-erected, it would be a magnificent addition to the chain of 1 ancient houses in Fairmount Park. I The main part of Chalkley Hall, built about 1776, is a rectangular , structure of cream-colored Manchester stone brought from England as ballast. There is not a finer piece of ashla7 masonry to be found anywhere in England; it is unique in America. Its hipped roof is topped by full-throated square chimneys. A range of five windows extends across its three-storied front; the projecting central portion of the facade embracing the three middle windows, supports a pediment rising as high as the deck of the main roof. At the corners of the central projection and of the building, pilasters rise from ' ground to cornice; belt courses between the stories traverse the field ' of the wall. Within the great hall was once ar exceptionally handsome stair, now removed to a muaeum; spacious rooms open from each side of it. To the north is a long low twostory wing, its front lighted by a row of seven square windows. This wing is the older part of the house and was built prior to 1723 by Thomas Chalkley, merchant, ship owner and Quaker missionary, who established his plantation "in order to be more retired and for health's sake." His diary sheds a reveal'I ing light on the "plain" Quaker ' attitude of his era. He writes: I was borne . . 1675, in SouthCourtesy of J. B. Lippincott Company wark ar.d descended of honest New Englandhave thrown the house to some extent, bu and religious parents (the strictPhiladelphia beginnings into the chiefly busied himself with t est of Friends) who were very shade. When the tea tax was readdition that became the m careful of me and brought me up duced part of the house. in the fear of the Lord; and to 3d per pound, there Chalkley Hall was on deb oftentimes counseled me to seemed to be a general disposisotion to pay it. The expected arable ground while the British held briety and reproved me for wanrival of a fresh consignment from Philadelphia and its occupa tonness; and that light spirit the had which is incident to youth theyEast India Company, however, some thrilling experienc Once Mrs. James had provided an were careful to rip in the prompted William Bradford to bud. gather at the Coffee House a numample dinner for some . . When between 8 and 10 starved American soldiers w years of age, my father . . ber of citizens whom he knew were sent unalterably opposed to the tax in come to the Hall to ask had me . -vo school . . in the sub. any form. They forthwith food. While they were in drew urbs of London I went mostly by up a midst myself, and many and various set of spirited resolutions. of their meal cam alarm "Red Coats!" The C were the exercises At the State House the following I went Saturday, October 16, 1773, a soldiers hastily fled tinental through by beatings and stonings "large and respectable town-while the British entered one door along the streets, being distinmeeting," presided over by Dr. by another. Instead of pursui guished to the people by the Thomas Cadwalader, enthusias- predecessors, they sat down their badge of plainness which my tically adopted these resolutions.finished the viands prepare and parents put upon me. . . About In for their this time the Lord began to work Boston the opposition was American cousins. weakening from a growing fear strongly on my mind by his After the death of Abel James that it would not be heartily supgrace, insomuch that I could not Chalkley Hall passed into the posported by the other Colonies. Enforbear reproving those lads that session of the Yorke family an couraged by Philadelphia's action, swore . . one time I remember was the scene of much so being among some men, one a Boston town-meeting on No- especially when Philadel of gaiety, vember 5, 1773, adopted the same whom 1 had reproved. . . Being phia was the National capital. I resolutions nearly word for word. convinced in their consciences 1817 the Wetherills became t that what I was true, they After the Philadelphia meeting said owners of this old Frank of October 16, committee waited were all silent and wondered plantation and worthily sustained upon the consignees of the tea to its reputation for the gener thatI, being so young, could procure their speak in such a manner; in the resignation ofhospitality that had been a trad commissions to distribute it. The of the house from its earlies tion which, I remember, I had great firm days. Rumor tells of a great feas peace and good satisfaction.. . of James & Drinker demurred at the popular demand. occasion, when cov on one I remember that, unknown to my Close upon this, a crowd of were laid for eighty guests a citiparents, I had bought a pack of at his cards, with intent to makezens visited Abel Jameseach guest ate from a silver po use of them when I went to see warehouse and insisted upon his my ringer. The poet Whittier resignation. Then and there one known visitor to Chalkley the he relations in the country. . . I guaranteed word and Hall who failen of an hospitab went to see them, and . . on my the tea should not be property that at landed reception; he himself oppoeed the way went to a meeting . . pledged his little daughter, and obstacle. One day, in 183 which . . minister . . declared Rebecca, who was strange man was seen leaning o against the evil of gaming, andher father' perched on top s of a particularly of cards . . From for the hogsheads, as the gate, looking steadfastly surety performance of his house. Mr. Wetherill w the this meeting at Wanstead I went promise. down the drive and invited him to to the house of my relations. Abel James was one of the mer.. enter. When he learned who th The time drawing near thatchants whose Loyalist symwe stranger was, he pressed him were to go to our games, my pathies brought his affairs vir- But the poet, seized with come in. uncle called . . to me . . to come tually to a standstill during the an unaccountable fit of shynes and take a game at cards; at Revolution. "When thrown outgazed a few minutes and t which motion I had a strong by the . .war, he kept of business up walked away. His verse conviction upon me not to do his spirits as long as he could find Chalkley Hall appeared not lon as it, being evil; . . lifting up my employment for half the neigh- alluding to the missiona after, eyes I saw a Bible lie in the boring village of Frankford, in labors and good deeds of its firs rewindow, at the sight of which I building" the seat his wife had builder. inwas glad. . . I took it and sat herited from her father. As a down and read to myself, greatly matter of fact, very little rebuild- next article on Colonial The rejoicing that I was preserved ing their Philadelphia, will be about Tod. out of the mare . . So took place. Mr. James refurbished Thomas Chalkley's oldHall. morden sport for that time was spoiled . . as soon as I came home I of fered my new and untouched pack of cards to the fire." Priggish, tormented little Thomas Chalkley survived this unnatural childhood; despite his joyless, leaden-gray youth he arrived at vigorous, though eccentric manhood. In 1701 he settled in Philadelphia and became a successful merchant. Like many of the old merchants, he often went with his ships to trade in foreign parts. With his mercantile journeys he combined his missionary work; his diary affords an amazing record. On one of these business-missionary expeditions he died, in 1741, in the Island of Tortola. He appears an "uneasy" person who could not sit long at home. In his diary he devoutly thanks Providence that he has a wife and children and a fine country estate; then he whisks off preaching for two or three months, seemingly unmindful of all home ties. Oftentimes he, entertained the Indians and had them camped around his house, justas James Logan did at Stenton. Thomas Chalkley's only surviving child, Rebecca, was married to Abel James, merchant, in 1747. Abel James, senior member of the firm of James Sr Drinker, was one of the consignees of the tea ship Polly. This recalls the fact that opposition to the Tea Act began in Philadelphia, not in Boston as so many imagine. The dramatic aspects of the Boston Tea Party and the fact that American history has been mostly written in

EVENING PUBLIC L

Colonial Philadelphia :

2. The Hope Lodge

Courtesy of J. B. Lippincott Compan

Sy HAROLD DONALDSON EBERlay at Whitemarsh. It was prob looked about and exclaimed, "I've LEIN AND CORTLANDT VAN got the pen; all I want now is the ably due to the "good entertain DYKE HUBBARD ment" extended by his hospitable sow." This indelicate speech got host to his betrothed and HOPE LODGE, in the White-the ears of broke the engage- that Washington gave th protection to Mr. West's woods she promptly marsh Valley close by St. Thomas' shown by ment. The story of Morris' an order still extan Church, is on the Bethlehem Pike the blasted betrothal was well known soldiers were forbidden to fell just northeast of its junction with the eighteenth century, trees on the property and ordered in in the Skippack Pike. In its ample some verses were and to seek their supplies of woo 1753 written dignity and in the purity of its elsewhere. alluding to it. The repentant early Georgian architecture, it is Morris seems to have lived After Mr, West's death an second to none in the neighborexemplary life afterward; he beexecutors sold the property, i hood of Philadelphia. In every a Justice of the Peace in came 1784, to Henry Hope, of particular it is typical Whitemarsh and was an overseer of the famous London and Amsterdam phase prevalent at the era when of Plymouth Meeting. He died it was built; it is likewise typical1770, leaving various charitablebanking firm of Hope & in Henry Hope never lived in th of the sort of large brick country bequests; the estate went to his ultimately deeded the seat peculiar to SoutheasternJoshua, who, in 1776, sold house and to his second cousi brother, property Pennsylvania. it of James An avenue of overarching trees to William West, a relative had Horatio Watmough. It was the leads from the road to the house, Lords de la Warr, who Mr. Watmough who named th settled in Pennsylvania about 1750house Hope Lodge. James Horatio which stands on a slight rise. Abecome a shipping merchant. and Watmough's second daughte little to the southwest At St. is of Thomas' Hill, thrice held by sol- Hope Lodge, the alarms Margaretta, married John Se war any diers during the Revolutionary frequently interrupted geant, the eminent lawyer, afterpeace and quiet of retirement Mr. a in Congress struggle. In front, to the north- had expected. The house ward inRepresentativecandidate for West and is east across the pike, the Wissa- a stone's throw from St. 1832 Whig only Vice President on the ticket with hickon winds through peaceful Thomas' Hill and when the BritHenry Clay. meadows; beyond, rises the long forces were encamped round 1832 Hope Lodge was sold to In slope of Militia Hillevery rood of ish about and Howe had mounted his Jacob Wentz and the Wentz famland full of historic memories. By ily the banks of the stream,cannon it could not have of the old continued in possession until with in the windows been any church, 1922, when William L. De moss-grown dam and placid leat, pleasant for the Wests. Tratoo bought the property. For a lon is an ancient stone mill that once dition says that Hope Lodge time before Mr. Degn bought Hope ground corn for all the Colonists, served as an emergency hospital Lodge the house had been falling far and near. into disrepair and it was even in after the Samuel Morris, the son of Battle of Germantown. Mr. a Morris Morris, a Welsh Quaker West is said to have been danger of being demolished. Mr. Degn has put it in thorough Loyalist, though of that there is who lived near Abington, bought good order and maintains it with no 500 acres from Edward Farmer certainty. He was given to generous hospitality and therepraiseworthy regard for its his is who held extensive land theretoric little doubt that Washington was character. abouts by grant from William a guest at Hope Lodge more than This is Pennand built Hope Lodge to the second of a series once while the Continental Army on Philadelphia Colonial Homes. receive an expected bride. Nevertheless, Samuel Morris lived and died a bachelor. And this was why: His mother, Susannah Heath Morris, a prominent minister among Friends, was given to making "religious visits." Samuel went with his mother on a "religious visit" across the Atlantic and became affianced to a young Quakeress in England. The betrothed pair fell to planning their future home, and the design of the house has been attributed to Sir Christopher Wren. Though the