USE OF RAMMED EARTH Using rammed earth involves a process of compressing a mixture of damp earth that has suitable

proportions of sand, gravel and clay (sometimes with an added stabilizer) into an externally supported frame that molds the shape of a wall section creating a solid block of earth. Traditional stabilizers such as lime or animal blood were used to stabilize the material, but cement has been the stabilizer of choice for modern times. The use of cement is contentious as its manufacture creates ten percent of manmade carbon emissions. However, this may be substantially offset by the partial substitution of cement with alternatives such as ground granulated blast furnace slag or by using hydrated lime. After compressing (ramming) the earth, the formers can be immediately removed. The walls will require a number of warm dry days after construction to dry and harden. The structure can take up to two years to cure completely and the more it cures the stronger the structure becomes. When the process is complete, it is much like constructing a handmade wall of solid rock. Formwork is set up to create the desired shape of the section of wall and damp material is poured in to a depth of around 100 to 150mm. A pneumatically powered backfill tamper - something like a hand-held pogo stick with a flat plate on the bottom (or alternatively a manual tamper) is then used to compact the material to around fifty percent of its original volume. Further layers of material are added and the process is repeated until the wall has reached the required height.

A rammed earth wall is so solid that the former can be removed immediately, Mote that if wire brushing is desired to add texture to the surface, it should be done immediately as walls become too hard to brush after around 60 minutes. In modern variations of the method, rammed earth walls are constructed on top of conventional footings or a reinforced concrete base. To add interest to the structure, some builders add coloured oxides or items such as bottles or pieces of timber, Once completely cured, the walls are very workable. It is easy to drive a nail or screw into them and they can be patched if necessary, with the results being undetectable as long as exactly the same material and mix is used. One of the most significant benefits of a rammed earth construction is its excellent thermal mass. It heats up slowly during the day and releases its heat during the evening. This tends to even out daily temperature variations and reduces the need for air conditioning and heating. On the other hand, rammed earth is not a good insulator. Like brick and concrete, rammed earth is often insulated in colder climates. The thickness and density of the walls ends itself naturally to soundproofing and the materials used in the walls make them virtually fireproof. Rammed earth is not only an economically viable construction technique; it also results in visually pleasing, energy-efficient buildings. The density and thickness of rammed earth means cold temperature penetration has a slow rate of thermal conductivity. Warmth takes almost twelve hours to work its way through a 360mm thick wall. The walls provide good thermal mass, which helps keep indoor temperatures stable, particularly ir regions with dramatic daily temperature changes. The half-day rate of heat transfer and thermal mass of the material makes rammed earth a particularly suitable material for passive solar buildings. Rammed earth has been a popular choice for buildings where temperature fluctuations need to be kept to a minimum. It can be used in wetter climates but must be protected from heavy rain by an overhanging roof.

Typically, rammed earth walls are about 300 to 360mm thick, making them ideal for humidity control and noise barriers from traffic, furnaces, compressors, fans or ducts. Rammed earth also allows more air exchange than concrete structures, as the material mass allows the building to breathe, avoiding condensation issues without significant heat loss. By its very nature, earth is one of the best sustainable building materials as historically it is the longest used material by man. It is a universally and naturally available product, with a heavy thermal mass and acts as a natural barrier to cold winds and mass and acts as a natural barrier to cold winds and forces of nature, including insects and rodents. The material is not rationed or monopolised, is fire proof and sound proof. Rammed earth housing has been shown to help resolve problems with homelessness caused by otherwise high building costs, as well as to help address the ecological dilemma of deforestation and toxic building materials associated with conventional construction methods. In recent years, rammed earth has become popular amongst environmentally conscious architects as well as those seeking an element of exoticism. TOOLS OF THE TRADE Mixing You will need some type of mixing machine; I used a regular cement mixer, which I bought second hand for around 100. These mixers can handle nine shovels of earth at a time. This is a good quantity for ramming by hand; it takes around 15 to 20 minutes to get the earth to a suitable dampness. It also takes around the same amount of time to ram this quantity by hand, so if you have a two-person team you will be working to the maximum efficiency.

You could use a rotovator instead, if you have the floor area to operate it. These are handy if you need to mix bigger volumes of earth. If you plan to use pneumatic ramming then you may well need to get one of these, as mechanical ramming can be up to ten times quicker than manual ramming. Second hand rotovators can be picked up for around 100.

When the earth is processed, it usually requires the addition of water which should be blended slowly and evenly throughout the mix. If you plan to use rainwater then you will need to use a watering can with a sprinkler rose, if you use mains water then get a hosepipe gun with a sprinkler setting.

Material handling Do not underestimate the power of the rubber bucket! You will need to transport your materials around the build site and they are invaluable in the rammed earth construction process. They cost around 4 but last a long time. You will need about six of them. Wheelbarrows are also invaluable. You may well already have one knocking around but you will need at least two. They are quite expensive at around 35, but most people have one that they rarely use, so ask your friends and neighbors if you can borrow theirs. Water Now, you need to be let in on my secret weapon... none of this would have happened if it hadn't been for SID. SID (Soil Improvement Device) is a contraption that I had already built prior to even hearing of rammed earth. He came about because we had a problem. We wanted to grow vegetables in the garden but found that our topsoil was contaminated with brick rubble, rope, plastic and no end of glass. We couldn't grow in that, so SID was conceived. SID screens the soil and ejects particles over 25mm down the top shoot and then a second lower screen of 12mm separates particles between 12mm and 25mm down another lower shoot. The earth particles under 12mm go straight through SID into the wheelbarrow and are returned to the raised beds for our crops to grow in. When I started to look into rammed earth building, I soon realized that one of the main hurdles you need to jump is soil screening. SID can process around one tonne an hour (if you have two wheelbarrows and two pairs of hands), so it didn't take too long to sort out .

the 39 tonnes to build the Eco-Shed. I already had around 26 tonnes of subsoil from the excavations from the shed's footings and the other 13 tonnes came from a building site six miles down the road. All this subsoil was processed through SID. The total cost to build him was just 45, including the power unit - a 25 drill from a large DIY chain. Keep your receipt, as they only seem to do about 13 tonnes before the Inevitable happens! I am sure that many of you could improve on my design, especially the power unit. I have seen some examples on YouTube based on SID that use a jigsaw to cause a vibrating effect to process the material. Even better would be a powerful motor - the kind you get on concrete mixers - with a speed controller. All the big stuff such as brick rubble and stones, which comes down the top shoot, can be re-used as hardcore for your subfloor and the smaller stones from the lower shoot we used for pathways around the garden. Everything in the barrow is below 12mm and this is what I used for my rammed earth walls. Finally, don't forget the safety goggles, have fun and good luck!

I have not listed any dimensions on the previous pages because I dont think anyone could replicate SID like-for-like, mainly because he was created from scrap timber from my local wood yard and odds and ends I found around the house. What you need to do stake the principles of what it does and assemble your own version. Recently I have built a new sieving contraption; which has proved to be a better design. It is much more reliable and delivers plenty of torque. Again, I have used easily found materials: Old bicycle wheels, steel mesh, scrap plywood; an old table saw frame and motor.

Remember to start with your wheelbarrow, then build your frame with some space around it to ensure nothing bashes into your barrow while they thrash around. For more details, visit the videos page on the website:
www.rammed-earth.orE Raft

Raft foundations cover an area at least the same size as the base of the building. They are used on soft compressible subsoil such as soft clay or peat. However, it is important that they are reinforced to resist the effect of ground movement and the raft should be constructed with an apron edge so that it doesn't slide.

Pile Pile fouhdatloris are used to support buildings in subsoil conditions such as on shrinkable clays, infill or waste tips, slopes and sites with a high water table in a poorly drained region. They are a substitute where conventional foundations would need to be so deep that they would be uneconomical. In effect, a basic pile foundation is a series of stilts or columns that rest on a solid, load-bearing layer of the soil up to four meters below the surface. Beyond this depth, the expense usually becomes prohibitive for small build projects although there are self-builders that have completed a project to budget with piles going down ten meters. The piles may either be precast or cast in-situ.

Eco-Shed strip footings with stem-wall nearly ready for earth ramming DESIGNING THE ECO-SHED
The walls of the Eco-Shed were constructed as shown in this basic diagram.

This seemed straightforward enough so I thought I would spice things up a little by designing a five sided building of which one wall was curved. Probably not the first thing that springs to most peoples' minds, but the design lends itself to the way our garden is set out

Also, a curved design makes the building appear visually smaller, which Is a useful trick to use when you want maximum space within your structure with minimum impact outside.

I made a 1:50 scale model of the Eco-Shed out of balsa wood which I strongly recommend you do too, as it can highlight areas where you may encounter problems with your build. As a result of my model, I decided to build the Eco-Shed one metre wider and slightly changed the roof construction.