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Pgina 1/1

RENAULT 21 Nevada 1.7i (F3N-722/723) 1989 hasta 1995

6 vlvula control velocidad de ralent(Renix -> 1990)

La vlvula de control de velocidad de ralent regula la derivacin de flujo de aire.

voltaje de alimentacin: 12 V resistencia de la bobina: 20 ohm informacin forma de onda: motor funcionando al ralent

Alcance 1
Terminales a masa 23, 24


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3 Wired Bosch Valves (0280 140 505) The bosch valves can also be made to work via the FIdle output, these need the transistor mod as above and they need to be wired as the diagram below. The centre pin goes to +12V, one of the other 2 pins will hold the valve shut when its connected to ground (0V). This pin needs to go to earth via the resistor, the other pin goes to the FIdle output on the DB37 connector. On a 3 wired valve there are effectively 2 windings that fight against each other, one opens the other closes it. So we put a resistor in line to ground with one winding, this shuts (or opens it depending on what winding you use) the valve, so its like having a spring holding it one way. The MS ECU then forces it either shut or open, it can do this as the resistor in the other winding limits how much it can force it one way.

Base settings for the bosch valve in Warmup Only mode:

Closed Loop Mode The following are Jerry's comments ( on setting up open loop on his Miata. "Some engines struggle to idle when an extra load is put on them, such as with the A/C on, when you decel and come to a stop the engine struggles to recover a stable idle and often stalls. The fix--- First of it looks like you need a pot-type TPS for this which the 90-93 Miata doesn't have, but later models do. In the idle control dashpot settings you set this up so that when it sees the TPS go below a certain point, and the RPM drop below a set point as well, it opens up the IAC a set DC%. Here are my settings for my 95 Miata-- I can change these to disactivate it and immediately I start stalling again, set them back like this and it settles to a nice stable idle when I come to a stop with the AC on.

The TPS Threshold is in ADC-- you want it a bit below your lowest cruise TPS ADC, and above 'off throttle' ADC. The RPM setting is an addition to the interpolation of the fast and slow idle speeds above. So in this case fast is 1600, slow is 900-- so the interpolation is 1250. So by adding 500 to this we're telling it to activate when the RPMs fall below 1750rpm and the TPS is below 50 ADC. The Dashpot settle time has to be tuned a bit, too slow and it doesn't react fast enough, too fast and it gets into a funky oscillating idle loop and doesn't settle in right. 43-55 seems about right on my car, I'm still playing with this one. Dashpot adder DC is the DC% to add when this gets activated-- so we're adding 2% DC to the IAC when the TPS and Idle drop below these points. You can set it to 5% and watch it idle up really high when you come to a stop with the AC off, then settle down. 2% DC seems about right for me. It drops to about 1000 rpms, takes one tiny little bounce of like 100rpm, and then settles nicely." Other Idle Valves There are valves that need no control other than a 12V supply when the ignition is on. These heat up a bi-metalic strip that rotates a plate inside the valve and shuts the air down as the engine heats up, these are known as Extra Air Valves. They are becoming rare and hard to get old of, they were fitted to various engines, like the Flapper type RV8 EFI's. The Idle Speed has to be controlled with the throttle stop when using these

type of valves, as the valve is only used to add air when the engine is cold. Here is a Bosch example: