KoreaorBust2013

AboutourTrip WheretoStay Shopping InterestingFacts

AboutKorea AreastoSee Festivals Etiquette

HowtoGetThere DayTours ThingstoEat

AboutourTrip
HelloLadiessoitstimetostartplanningforourtrip,Ihavealotofinformationforyousograbadrinkandasnack andletsgo!!!! IvedividedthisintosectionsthatIthinkeveryonewillbeinterestedin,butkeepcheckingbackbecauseIllbeadding moreaswegoalong.FromstarttofinishwellseeifwecanmakethisaFABULOUStrip. Aswearealloverwecantreallydoatourpackageasourairfareswillallbedifferent,soyoulleachhavetobookyour ownflights.Samegoesforthehoteloncewedecideononeitwillbeyourresponsibilitytocallanbookaroomeither justforyourselforwitharoommate.ButoncewepickaplacewealllikeIllcontactthemandtrytogetusagrouprate. MostofwhatIampostingisforSeoulandsurroundingareaasweareallonlimitedfunds.Thedaytoursmighttakeus outsideofSeoulbutwillnotresultinhavingtofindsomeplacetostay,wedontwanttohavetounpackandrepack unlessofcoursewefindareallygooddealsomewhere.Therestisallupintheaironwhatwewanttodoandwhen. Skyandpocketbookisthelimit.

ABOUTKOREA
Regions
GyeonggisurroundingSeoulandcoveredinitsurban sprawl.NotablePlaces:KoreanDemilitarisedZone,Suwon Gangwonnaturalwonderland;SeoraksanNationalPark, eastcoastbeachesandskiresorts.Notable Places:Chuncheon NorthChungcheonglandlockedprovincefilledwith mountainsandnationalparks.Notable Places:Danyang,Cheongju SouthChungcheongcentralwesternpartofthecountry. Flatareamadeupofricepaddies.Pointwheremaintrain linesandhighwaysconvergeandknownforitshotsprings. NotablePlaces:Daejeon,Gongju,Boryeong. NorthGyeongsanglargestprovinceandrichestareafor historicalandculturalsites.Notable places:Andong,GyeongjuandtheislandsofUlleungdo. SouthGyeongsangknownforitsgorgeousseasidecitiesandmostrespectedtemples.Notable Places:Busan,HaeinsaTemple,Jinju. NorthJeollaGreatKoreanfood.NotablePlaces:Jeonju SouthJeollaLotsofbeautifulsmallislandsandlandscape,fantasticfood(especiallyseafoodalongthe coast)andgoodforfishing.NotablePlaces:Gwangju,Boseong,Yeosu. JejuKorea'shoneymoonisland,builtbyavolcano.Greatscenerywithwildflowersandhorseback riding.Oneofthefewplacesyoumayneedacar.

Cities

Seoul () the dynamic 600 year old capital of South Korea, a fusion of the ancient and modern Busan (, ) the second largest city and a major port city of Korea. Incheon (, ) second busiest port in the country, location of the country's largest international airport Daegu (, ) a cosmopolitan city, rich with ancient traditions and sights Daejeon (, ) a large and dynamic metropolis located in Chungnam province Gwangju (, ) the administrative and economic centre of the area, the largest city in the province Gyeongju (, ) the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom Jeonju (, ) once the spiritual capital of the Joseon Dynasty, now a leading center of the arts filled with museums, ancient buddhist temples, and historical monuments Chuncheon (, ) capital city of Gangwon province, surrounded by lakes and mountains and known for local dishes, dakgalbi and makguksu

Other destinations

Seoraksan National Park spread out over four cities and counties, the country's most renowned national park and mountain range Andong historically rich in Confucious traditions and home of living folk village Guinsa spectacular mountain headquarters of the Buddhist Cheondae sect Panmunjeom the only tourist site in the world where the Cold War is still reality Boseong rolling hills blanketed with green tea leaves where you can stroll along a wooded path and stop at a nearby spa to drink the home grown tea and take a seawater bath. Yeosu one of the country's most picturesque port cities especially at night, nominated to host the 2012 World Expo. Famous for its seafood and beaches, you can visit some of the islands in Hallyeo Ocean Park with cruise or watch sunset from its fabulous Dolsan Bridge or romantic cafes near marinas. Jindo commonly associated with the dog native to that area, the Jindo, every year people flock to the area to witness the parting of the sea and participate with the accompanying festivities Ulleungdo scenic remote island off the east coast of peninsula

HOWTOGETTHERE
OkfromwhatIveseenthepricesforflightsarerangingfrom$1,000to$1,300orso,withpricesalways increasingwebetterbepreparedforflightsinthe$1,500range.(weep)Whenwedecidethedaywewillsee ifwecanbookflightstoarriveataboutthesametimesowecantraveltoourhotelatthesametime.Ifwe canallgetflightsthatwillmeetinastopoverinsayNewYorkandthenflytogetherthatwouldbeamazing.In themeantimeIamlistingsomewebsitesyoucangototofindthebestpriceforyou. http://www.flightnetwork.comhttp://www.flighthub.com/http://www.tripadvisor.com http://www.travelocity.comhttp://www.priceline.com/flights/http://www.hotwire.com

WHERETOSTAY
Hostels GuesthousesGuesthousesinKoreaareastepupfromhostelsbutstillprettybasic,theyevenhaveareasto cookwhichwouldsaveusmoneywecouldcooksomeofourownmealsinsteadofeatingoutallthetime. Examples:http://www.namsanguesthouse.com

AREASOFSEOULTOSEE

ITAEWONItaewon is a unique place in Seoul where one can meet people of diverse nationalities and cultures. There is a popular joke saying that international residents may not know Seoul, but they know Itaewon. Seoul even designated Itaewon as its first Special Tourism District, to highlight it as a destination for internationals to enjoy a diversity of culture, shopping, and entertainment experiences. Samseong-dong - Samseong-dong in Gangnam-gu is a must see financial powerhouse area while
you are in Seoul. "What can I see there?" you might ask. Good question! There are too many things to list but for starters COEX Mall,Convention & Exhibition Center,an aquarium, IMAX, movie theaters, the Kimchi Field Museum, the beautiful Bongeunsa Temple. Baekam Art Hall, The Park Hyatt Seoul, the World Trade Center Seoul. the POSCO building, delicious restaurants, stylish and fashionable surroundings and more.

Hongdae - Hongdae area is known for its indie spirit, urban street arts and underground band
musicians. The area holds art galleries, theaters, design shops and is also home to hundreds of cafes, bars, restaurants, and nightclubs and draws revelers from a wide range of backgrounds, particularly university students, ESL teachers, and tourists. Most bars are open throughout the night to allow patrons to return home by subway.

DAYTOURS
HannaTour
SeoulHighlightsCoachTourDayTourCost$89US(seelinkformoredetailandpictures) Route: JogyesaTemple JogyesaTempleistheonlymajortemplewithintheoldcitywallsofSeoul.Builtin1910,thetemplewasfirst calledKakwangsa. BlueHouse TheBlueHouseorCheongwadaeistheexecutiveofficeandofficialresidenceoftheSouthKoreanheadof state,thePresidentoftheRepublicofKorea. GyeongbokPalace BuiltatthebeginningoftheChosunDynastywhentheYiDynastymovedthecapitaltoSeoul,thispalace remainedthemainseatofpowerforKoreakingsthroughoutmuchofthetimetothepresent. NationalFolkMuseum LocatedinsideGyeongbokgungPalace,theNationalFolkMuseumofKoreapresentsover4,000historical artifactsthatwereusedinthedailylivesofordinaryKoreanpeople. DeoksugungPalace Deoksugung,alsoknownasGyeongungung,DeoksugungPalace,orDeoksuPalace,isawalledcompoundof palacesinSeoulthatwasinhabitedbyvariousKoreanRoyaltiesuntilthecolonialperiodaroundtheturnofthe 20thcentury ChangdeokgungPalace ConstructionofChangdokPalacewasstartedin1405byKingT'aejong,anditwascompletedin1412.In1463, KingSejoexpandedthepalaceandcreatedBiwon(secret)Garden.TheJapaneseburnedallthebuildings during1592. NamsanHanokVillage HanokVillageislocatedinthePildoingArea,atthenorthernfootofMt.Namsan.DuringtheJoseonDynasty, therewerevalleysandCheonugakmakingthisanideaplacetovisitasasummerresortandplayground. InsadongArtsandCraftsMarket ThewholeareaofInsadonghasarichhistoryofsellingartsandcrafts.DuringtheJoseonDynasty(13921910), thestreetwasdominatedbyDohwawon,aplaceofstudyforpainters. NamdaemunMarket OneofKoreaslargestandmostpopulartraditionalmarkets,Namdaemunisanabsolutehavenforstreet shoppers.Theareasmyriadwalkwaysareflankedwithstreamsofcozyshopsandclutteredstandsselling everythingfrominexpensiveclothing,accessoriesandglassestocameras,importedfoodsandtableware. BestofSeoulDayTour$78US Route: GwanghwamunSquare OnAugust1st,2009,theredesignedGwanghwamunSquareopenedtothepublic.Withtheinaugurationof thesquare,Sejongro,locatedatthecenterofthe600yearoldhistoriccityofSeoul,wastransformedintoa humancenteredspacethatharmonizeswiththebeautifulsceneryofGyeongbokgungPalaceandBukaksan Mountain. CheonggyecheonStreamusedtoexistmerelyasanoverpassneglectedin1970untilitwasrestoredin2005, becomingahavenofnaturalbeautyamidstthebustleofcitylife. ChangdeokPalaceisconsideredthebestpreservedamongthefiveroyalpalaceofJoseonDynastyandis enlistedtoWorldCultrualHeritagebyUNESCO.

GyeongbokPalace(OnMondayonly) BuiltatthebeginningoftheChosunDynastywhentheYiDynastymovedthecapitaltoSeoul,thispalace remainedthemainseatofpowerforKoreakingsthroughoutmuchofthetimetothepresent.Gyeongbok meansShiningHappiness. JogyesaTempleistheheadquartersofJogyejongsect,themainsectofKoreanBuddhism. Insadongistheantiquealleywhichislinedwithartgalleries,antiqueshops,craftsshops,potteryshops, traditionalrestaurantsandteahouses. MorningTourofCeramicsVillage&HaegangCeramicMuseumhalfday$108US Lunchincluded Route: CeramicsVillage CeramicVillageinIncheonisonehourawayfromSeoulbybus.ItmakestraditionalKoreanceramicsofhigh quality.ThevillagebecamethecenteroftraditionalpotteryduringtheJoseonDynasty(13921910)forabout 500yearsduetotheeasilyobtainablematerialsinthearea.IcheonCeramicVillagewasalsothecenterof JoseonBaekjaceramics. HaegangCeramicMuseum TheHaegangCeramicsMuseumisKoreasfirstmuseumdedicatedtoceramics.Itexhibitsceramiccrafted works,theveryessenceofKoreantraditionalart,includingthecelebratedceladonporcelain,aswellas punchongware,andwhiteporcelain. LeisureNightSeoulTour4hrs$99US Route: CheonggyecheonStream CheonggyecheonStreamusedtoexistmerelyasanoverpassneglectedin1970untilitwasrestoredin2005, becomingahavenofnaturalbeautyamidstthebustleofcitylife. NSeoulTower LocatedatthetopofMt,NamsanintheheartofSeoul,SeoulTowerisa240metertall towercompletedin1975,OftenregardedasAsia'smostbeautifultower,thistowerisalsowhereyoucanget themostexcitingnightviewofSeoul. DongdaemunTraditionalMarket DongdaemunMarketstartedasatraditionalmarketin1905and experienceditsfirstmajortransformationin1970sasitbegantodevelopasacenterofthetextileindustry (bothwholesaleandretail),furthercontributingtothefasteconomicgrowthofKoreaatthattime. DMZ&3rdTunnelTour7hrs$64(LunchIncluded Route: About44Km(27m)fromSeoul,theDemilitarizedZone(DMZ)wasestablishedbytheKoreanarmistice agreementwhichwassignedin1953tobringatrucetotheKoreanWar.DMZtoursincludethe3rdTunnel (infiltrationtunnelbuiltbyNorthKoreain1978),DoraObservatorywhereyoucanviewvillagesinNorthKorea andDorasanStation,atrainstationbuiltinthenorthernmostregionofSouthKorea. ImjingakParkstands4.3milesfromtheMilitaryDemarcationLine,isnowattheforefrontoftourismrelated totheKoreanConflict. TheBridgeofFreedomisstandingbehindMangbaedanatImjingakSquare,andthebridgewasgivenits presentnamebyformerPresidentSeungmanLeeas12,773KoreanWarprisonersreturnedhometofreedom overthisbridge.

FOODTOURS
KOREAN NIGHT DINING TOUR
This tour will take you through the streets and alleys of Korea so you can explore Korea like a local. This tour explores Koreas rich history through a variety of Korean foods like barbecue and drinks. Our guides will entertain you with stories and teach you fun games. This walking tour will take you to 4 different places with different food and alcohol at each stop. Restaurants are children friendly and kids love the food and fun. 88,000 won a person all inclusive (minimum 2 people). There is a discounted noalcohol option and childrens rates available. Group Rates available for more than 8 people. This tour starts at 6pm and lasts for 3 1/2 hours.

KOREAN TASTE TOUR

This is a 2 hour lunch walking food tour that will show you the real Korea as we seek out classic shops, street stalls, and restaurants. At each stop, well have a small bite before dashing off to the next place. The tour starts with a cooking demonstration and tasting at Ongo Culinary School. Then well head to a market and walk the streets and the winding alleys of Insa-dong. This tour is great for kids. We will have a full lunch and stop at least 5 places so be sure to come hungry. Restaurants may differ from tour to tour. 57,000 won a person all inclusive (minimum 2 people). This tour starts at 11am daily and lasts for 2 hours.

GANGNAM-STYLE FOOD TOUR

Due to popular demand, we have started tours south of the river near the COEX in the Gangnam area. Well start with a visit to a famous Korean BBQ house famous for their charcoal grills and marinated meats. Then well go to a local cloudy rice wine house to try savory pan-fried delicacies. Well then try some Korean fried chicken. For those that are adventurous, well go to a noraebang(Korean singing room) so you can sing and dance with your new friends.

120,000 won a person all inclusive (minimum 2 people). This tour starts at 6pm and lasts for 4 hours.

KOREAN FISH MARKET TOUR

Noryangjin Fish Market is the largest wholesale and commercial fish market in Seoul. Here youll see the everyday life at the fish market. After the tour, well get to pick out our lunch from the tanks and have it prepared for us at a restaurant inside the market. Lunch and tour is provided. Please wear comfortable clothes. Sandals and open toed shoes are not recommended. 90,000 won a person all inclusive (minimum 2 people). This tour starts at 10am and lasts about 2 1/2 hours. No fish market tours available in June, July, and August.

VEGAN TASTE TOUR

Trying to find Vegan food in Korea can be hard. On this tour we will introduce you to some of the best vegan and temple cuisine that Korea has to offer. The highlight of the tour is a full course of the best temple cuisine for lunch. All of the food is local, healthy, and delicious. We carefully select restaurants that do not use any fish sauce or meat-based stock. This tour is also appropriate for people following a Halal and Kosher diet. Well visit a tofu restaurant, a temple cuisine restaurant, a dessert restaurant, and tea house. 120,000 won a person all inclusive (minimum 2 people). This tour starts at 11am and lasts 4 hours.

GoodShopping

Namdaemun(Seoul):Ifyouonlyshopinonemarketintheentirecountry,thisistheonetovisit.Theoldest andlargesttraditionalmarketinKorea,theysaythatifyoucan'tfindithere,itprobablydoesn'texist. NamdaemunMarket,locatedintheverycenterofSeoul,isthebiggesttraditionalmarketinKoreaselling children'sclothing,men&women'sclothing,dailymiscellaneousgoods,kitchenwareandlocalandimported products.Mostshopshavetheirownfactoriesandmaketheproductsthemselvesofferingbothwholesaleand retailpriceswhichenablevisitorstopurchasevariousshoppingitemsatextremelyinexpensiveprices. Janganpyeong(Seoul):Thebestplacetofindantiques,Janganpyeongisoneofthelargestspecialized marketsinallofAsia.Ifyou'relookingforauniquetreasure,thisistheplacetogodigging.Withover150 storessellingantiquesandreproductions,theChanganp'yongAntiqueMarketisoneofAsia'slargest.Vendors sellfurniture,paintings,calligraphy,lacquerware,ironware,andoldchests. YongsanElectronicsMarket(Seoul):Evenifyou'renotacomputergeek,youcanappreciatetheelectronic mayheminthismarketplacethatspans22buildings.LocatedneartheYongsantrainstation,theElectronics Marketismadeupofover20buildingshousing5,000storesthatsellappliances,stereos,computersand peripherals,officeequipment,telephones,lightingequipment,electronicgamesandsoftware,andvideosand CDs. MyeongdongStreet(Seoul):LocatedintheheartofSeoul,Myeongdongisarepresentativeshoppingdistrict inKorea.Italsohousestheheadquartersofbanksandsecuritiesbrokers,andmanyWesternandtraditional restaurants.ComparedtoNamdaemunandDongdaemunMarketwhichsellproductsatlowprices,most shopsinMyeongdongdealwithmidpriceditems. ShinsegaeMall(Seoul):IfyouwanttoseeSeoulitesdroptheequivalentofacoupleofhundreddollarsona fewmelonsorahandfuloflocallygrownoranges,Shinsegae'sflagshipdowntownstoreistheplacetogo.This isoneofthe"bigthree"departmentstoresinthecityandit'sadazzlingemporiumthatsellsallmannerof merchandise.Thecity'suberbrandconsciousconsumerssnapupthelatestFerragamoshoesandHermessilk scarves.

SHOWS
NantaShowhalfday$59US AbouttheShow InNanta,fourchefsreactthesoundsofsamulloriusingallsortsofkitchenutensilsastheypreparefora weddingreceptioninanopenkitchen.Astheygetreadytostarttheday,theunpleasantmanagergivesthem someunexpectednews.Notonlydothechefshavetopreparetheentireweddingmealby6pm,buttheyalso havetogivethemanagersnephewsomecookinglessons.Noneofthemarehappywiththesituation,but theysetouttowork. "NANTA"figurativelyreferstorecklesspunchingasinaboxingmatch.Itisanonverbalperformanceoffree rhythmicalmovementsthatdramatizecustomaryKoreanpercussionsinastrikinglycomedicstageshow. IntegratinguniqueKoreantraditionaldrumbeatsinawesternperformancestyle,Nantastormsintoahuge kitchenwherefourcapriciouscooksarepreparingaweddingbanquet.Whilecooking,theyturnallkindsof kitchenitemspots,pans,dishes,knives,choppingboards,waterbottles,broomsandeveneachotherinto percussioninstruments.

FEASTIVALSINSEPTEMBEROCTOBER
KoreaInMotion(costvaries)isanaffordableperformancefestivallaunchedin2006bytheKoreaTourism
Organization.ItspurposeistoprovideopportunitiesfordomesticandforeigntouriststoenjoyKoreanperformancesfor less. HallyuDreamFeastivalHallyu(KoreanWave)isanoptimizedculturaleventrepresentativeofKorea,alongwith Koreanfood,fashion,performance,andTVdrama.ThisincludestheHallyuDreamConcert2012artistwereKara

/UKiss/Beast/MBLAQandabout10otherWELLKNOWNgroups.ThefestivalislocatedinGyeongju,North GyeongsandProvince,KoreawhichfromwhatIcanseeisa2hourKTXtrainridefromSeoul.Youcan purchasePackagedealsforthe3dayeventincludinghotelstaypackagesrangefrom$140$510US

WonjuHanjiFestival(costentrancefee$2,000Wonplustrainfair)LocatedinGangwon-do Wonju-si Musil-dong. All inall,thefestivaloffersmorethan100excitingevents,programs,andperformances(tonameafew,HanjiPuppetShow, KoreanShuttlecockContest,andHanjiCraft/GiftBoxContest).Duringthefestival,visitorsmaywanttovisitnearby touristattractionsincludingChiaksanMountainNationalPark,BaeunsanMountain,andSinrimSeonghwangrim Forest. The festival, in particular, hosts a special opening event: the Hanji Fashion Show. Performed on a main stage
in Hanji Theme Park, the fashion show offers the infinite potential of Hanji (its transformation from mulberry to paper, fibers, and functional new materials). The festival, in particular, hosts a special opening event: the Hanji Fashion Show. Performed on a main stage in Hanji Theme Park, the fashion show offers the infinite potential of Hanji (its transformation from mulberry to paper, fibers, and functional new materials).

Andong International Mask Dance Feastival (cost vary from free to only a few Won) (first week of Oct) The Andong area has a variety of socio-historical and religious heritages from different periods, from ancient times to the present. Andong holds the largest number of cultural properties in Korea. It reveals a very vivid picture of the aesthetics and traditions of the Orient. We can find not only tangible cultural and historical heritages like ancient villages, but also many intangible cultural properties of the Andong tradition such as Cha-Jeon-Nori (demonstration of Battle game, involving hundreds of men working together), Not-Dari-Balgi (a female play), Traditional wedding, and Haeng-Sang-Sori (demonstration of funeral ceremony). These plays are an amazing spectacle and a really unique experience to be had at the festival. The abundant cultural heritage of Andong is attributed to the worth-oriented philosophy of the Andong people who have coped with numerous social changes and positively adapted to new cultural traditions. Hence, various elements of Oriental culture have flowed into Andong and been re-synthesized into the distinctive Andong way of life and culture. These socio-cultural, historical and religious heritages are the basis of the Maskdance Festival. We can learn quiet composure and mindfulness through understanding the significance of traditions through the excitement of the Mask dance. The program for the 2007 Mask dance Festival is conscientious of our local heritage and the importance of sharing it with others.

OTHERPLACESTOSEE
Suwons Hwaseong Fortress (about 2hrs outside Seoul) - HwaseongFortresswasconstructedasan
actoffilialdevotionbyJeongjo,the22ndkingoftheJoseonDynasty(1392~1910),andtostrengthenhispower, eradicatepartyconflict,andfortifythesouthernareaofthecapital.ConstructionwasstartedalongMt. PaldalsaninJanuary1794andcompletedinSeptember1796underthesupervisionofChaeJegong,aformerminister andthemagistrateofYeongjungchubuCounty.

GoodEats:
KalguksuStreet Gettingthere:Subwayline4toHoehyeonStation.Thestreet(moreofan alley)isdirectlyinfrontofexit5. LocatedatthefrontoftheNamdaemunMarket,nexttotheaccessory streetandbyexit5ofHoehyeonstation,thereisastreetfullofvinyl coveredstore.ThisisNamdaemunsKalguksu(handmadenoodlesoup) street.Here,thedelicate,warmaromaofkalguksuwillinstantlymakeyou hungry.Attheserestaurants,apleasantsurpriseisthefreedish,which comeswithanyorder.(Bibimnaengmyeon:coldnoodlesmarinatedwith spicysauce,servedwithanyorderofkalguksu)Althoughtherearemanyrestaurantscrowdedtogetherinthis area,allofthemofferthesameitemsonthemenuandthesamedelicioustaste. GwangjangMarket Gettingthere:Takesubwayline1toJogno5gaStationandgetoutatexit8.
ItsherethatyoucanfindGwangjangMarket,Seoulsoldestcoveredmarket. Specialisingmainlyintextiles,themarketisagreatplacetogoifyouareafterany kindofcutpricefabricorsimplyfancyagawkatKoreanindustryatitsmost elemental.Tradersdovigourousbusinessamongsthugerollsofsilksandlinens, andnarrowalleysandpassagesleadoffintoawarrenofshopsandrestaurants.

BoiledPigsFeetAlley Gettingthere:TakesubwayLine5toGondeokStationandgetoutexit4. JokbalisaKoreanporkdishmadefromboilingpigsleginwater.Thedishis bestservedwithsoju,Koreaspotatodistilledvodka.Theareasahugely popularafterhourshauntforlocalofficeworkers.SomunanJokbalhas beeninbusinessforthirtyyears. GalchiJorimStreet Gettingthere:SubwayLine4toHoehyeonStation.Turnrightatexit4.Its thefourthstreetdownontheleft. LocatedinNamdaemun,oneofAsiaslargestmarkets,thisisagreatplaceto enjoygalchijorim(steamedhairtailfishsoup). BBQAlley Gettingthere:SubwayLine5toMajangStation.Fromexit2walkstraightto thebridge(10mins)andturnleft.Thealleyisaround500mdownfromthere. Beefhereischeaperandfarbetterthanwhatthemorecommercial restaurantsarecarrying.

FOODS(Takenfrom40Koreanfoodswecan'tlivewithout)
1.Hangoverstew() GivenKoreasdedicateddrinkingculture,itsnotsurprisingthatKoreas hangovercuringcultureisequallyasdeveloped,frompredrinkingdrinkstopost drinkingdrinkstoagloriousarrayofspicyandsteamystewsandsoups. Madefromabeefbroth,withcabbage,beansprouts,radishandchunksof congealedoxblood,thedeeplysatisfyingtastedoeswonderstokickstartyour sluggishbraininthemorning.
Chungjinokhasbeenmakinghaejangguksince1937,sotheymustbedoingsomethingright.24 Jongno1ga,Seoul(, 1 24);+8227351690

2.Kimchi() DatingtotheShillaDynasty(approximately2,000yearsago),kimchiisthe belovedspicysidekickateveryKoreantable.It'smadebysaltingand preservingfermentedcabbageinabedofpepper,garlic,gingerandscallion. Feelingadventurous?Exchangeyourregularredcabbagekimchiforggakdugi (choppedradishkimchi),apopularsideatgimbaprestaurants.Yeolmumul kimchiisalessspicykimchimadewithyoungradishstalksfloatinginatangy soup. Foraselectionofhandmadekimchi,tryonlinekimchisellersRealKimchi. 3.SoftTofuStew() Softtofu,clamsandanegginspicybroth?Thispopularstewisaclassicexampleofunexpectedflavor combinationsyieldingdelightfulsensations. Thesofttofuwhichbreaksintofluffychunksinthestewholdstheflavoroftheclamandservesasarelief fromtheoverallspiciness. Propersundubujjigaecomesinatraditionalearthenwarepotdesignedtoretainheat.Theeggiscrackedinto thestewafterserving,andcooksinsidethebowl.
JaesunSikdanghastheKoreanblogospherebuzzingwithappreciationforitsambitiousmenu:fourtypesofsundubujjigae,allfor lessthan6,000.1823Nonhyun1dong,Gangnamgu(, 1 1823);+8225143864

4.Samgyeopsal() Thebestpartofeatinginasamgyeopsalrestaurantistheatmospherea rollickingpartypunctuatedbysojushots,porkstripssizzlingonagrillandshouts foronemoreserving,please! Servedwithlettuce,perillaleaves,slicedonionsandrawgarlickimchi,it's smudgedinssamjang(amixofsoybeanpastecalled'doenjang'andchilipaste called'gochujang')orsaltandpepperinsesameoil.

BulzipSamgyeopsalinHongdaeservesdeliciousporkbarbecue24hoursaday.Seokyodong, Mapogu,Seoul(,);+8223233384;www.bulzip.co.kr

5.Jjajangmyeon() AlthoughoriginallyaChinesedish,Koreanshavetakenthenoodlesandcreatedathicker,yummierversion thatholdsonlyavagueresemblancetoitsChinesepredecessor.(ThinkofNewYorkersandthewonders theyvedonewithpizza.) ItwouldnotbeanunderstatementtosayKoreandietswouldnotbethesamewithoutthisdishmost

Koreanseatitatleastonceaweek,andhavetheirfavoritejjajangmyeondeliveryshoponspeeddial.
Yangjagang,66015Sinsadong,Gangnamgu(,66015);+8225432233

6.Chimaek() Chimaek,shortforchicken,maekju(beer)isactuallynotadish,butaninstitution.Thisgloriouspairing featurestwosurprisinglymundanefoods:friedchickenandbeer. Neitherhalf,chickennorbeer,isparticularlyremarkableonitsown.Buttheirpopularityasajointentity demonstratesagloriouscombinationdevouredbymillionsofKoreanseveryweekend.

TheFrypaninSinchontakeschimaekveryseriously:22Changcheondong,Seodaemungu,Seoul(

,22 );+8223937707

7.Instantnoodles() Anyonecanfollowthedirectionsonthebackoftheramyeonpackagetoboilwater andsprinkleinthespicepacket,butconnoisseurswilladdextraslikecannedtuna, eggs,andcheeseforenhancedflavor. Needsomepointersonhowitsdone?TryIlgongyukLamyuninHongdae,namedfor thetimeofdaywhenramyeonsupposedlytastesthebest:106for10:06pm.Their upgradedramyeondishesarerepletewitheverythingfrombeansproutsandtofuto musselsandseamustard.Andasifthatisntenough,allmealscomewitha complimentarysupplyofeggs,glutinousrice,andtoast.

2/FPrugioSangga,486Seokyodong,Mapogu,Seoul(,486 2 ); +8231421241

8.KimchiStew() Alesserknownfactaboutkimchiisitsversatilityasaningredientinawholeslewofderivativedishes,which compriseacategoryoftheirown.Inkimchijjigae,redcabbagekimchiischopped,sautedinoil,andcooked withtofu,cellophanenoodles,pork(sometimestuna),andothervegetables. Despitethestew'sdebttokimchi,youknowithascomeintoitsownwhenitsservedwithkimchiasaside dish.

TryGwanghwamunjipKimchiJjigaeforkimchijjigaeaskimchijjigaewasalwaysmeanttobe:obscenelyorangeandobscenely delicious.43Dangjudong,Jongnogu,Seoul(,43);+8227397737

9.ArmyStew() Thishodgepodgestewofsausages,Spam,Americancheese,instantnoodles,tteok,andassortedvegetables datesbacktotheaftermathoftheKoreanWar. Becausemeatwasscarce,cooksfoundcreativereplacementsinthesurplusfoodsfromtheAmericanarmy basestationedinSeoul,hencethestew'sname. Althoughmeathassincethenbecomeplentiful,abuddaejjigaewithoutSpamisunimaginable.

ChoissiAjeossiBuddaejjigaehasunlimitedrefillsofriceandramyeonnoodles.5432Myeongdong2ga,Junggu,Seoul (,2 5432);+827088716788

10.Soysaucecrab() Ganjanggejang,orcrabmarinatedinsoysauce,canbesoaddictivethatitsoften affectionatelycalledricethief,thejokebeingthatyoukeepeatingmorericejustso thatyoucanhavemoregejangsinceitsjustthatgood.Slightlytangy,tantalizingly bitter,pungentandcold,thetastemaycomeasashockforfirsttimers.Butamong Koreans,gejanghasbeencarvingoutanicheforitselfasmoreofacenterpiecethana sideshowtootherseafoods.ProGanjangGejanginSinsadongisoveraquarterofacenturyold.

271Jamwondong,Seochogu,Seoul(,271);+8225434126

11.Tteokbokki() ThisiconicredorangestreetfoodissopopulartheresanentiretowninSeouljust devotedtothesteamedandslicedricecakes(tteok),cookedwithfishcakes(oden) andscallionsinasweetandspicysaucemadeofchilipaste. Chefshavebeenknowntoputallsortsofthingsinsidethesauce,fromtheblack soybeanpastetoplainoldketchup.Callusmasochists,butonethingiscertain:the morepepper,thebetter.

Sindang-dong Tteokbokki Town, Sindang 1-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul ( , 1 )

12.Gopchang() Gopchangreferstothesmallintestinesfromporkorcattle,which,choppedintoroundedsections,canbe cookedintosoups,stirfried,orgrilled. Grilled,gopchangisyetanotherimportantaspectofKoreanbarbecueculture.Chewywithoutbeingrubbery, itsabitmorefestivethansamgyeopsal,althoughitsstillastaunchlyearthyfood. AndasmostofficeworkersinKoreacantellyou,itsdivinewithsoju.

For something even more out of the ordinary, try gopchang with wine at Seolhalmeoni Gopchang. 227 Hyojedong, Jongno-gu, Seoul( , 227); +82 10 9486 1229

13.Samgyetang() Continuingalongthemasochisticstrain,Koreanshaveasayingthatgoes,fight heatwithheat.WhatthatmeansisKoreanslovetoeatboilinghotdishesonthe hottestsummerdays. Themostrepresentativeoftheseissamgyetang,athick,glutinoussoupwitha wholestuffedchickenfloatinginitsboilingdepths. Thecookingprocesstonesdowntheginsengssignaturebitternessandleavesan oddlyappealing,aromaticflavorinitssteadaflavorthatpermeatesanentire birdboileddowntoajuicysoftness.

Head over to the popular Tosokchon Samgyetang near Gyeongbok Palace for some healthy boiled bird--keep in mind, however, that with great fame come long lines. 85-1 Chebu-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul( , 85-1); +82 2 737 7444

14.Bibimbap() ThisKoreanlunchinabowlmixestogetherasimplesaladofrice,mixedvegetables,rice,beef,andegg,with sesameoilandadollopofchilipasteforseasoning.AlthoughKoreankingsfromyesteryearwouldprobablybe shockedathowtheroyaldishhasbecomesoingrainedintothepalateofthemasses,welovehowcheaply andquicklywecandevourourfavoritelunch.

Bibimbap restaurant Gogung in Myeongdong has a tempting menu of beautifully arranged bibimbap. 12-14 Chungmu-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu (, 2 12-14); +82 2 776 3211

15.Gimbap() TheprocessofmakinggimbapresemblestheItalianglassworktechniqueof millefiori,andindeed,thefinishedgimbapoftenlookstooprettytooeat. Sautedvegetables,groundbeef,sweetpickledradish,andrice,rolledandtightly wrappedinasheetoflaverseaweed(gim),andthenslicedintobitesizedcircles.

#101 Koggiri Sangga, 615-1 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul ( , 615-1 101 ); +82 2 515 1259

16.Doenjang() WhenpeoplethinkAsiancuisine,theyoftenthinksoysauce.Butsoysauceisactuallyabyproductofthis soybeanproduct,apastemadefromdriedandfermentedsoybeansinaprocesstoocomplicatedtodescribe here.Thisbrown,texturedpasteisnottheprettiestfoodintheworld,andlikeAustralianvegemite,thetaste takessomegettingusedto.Butoncethattasteisacquired,goodlucktryingtomakedowithoutit.

Few restaurants serve doenjang on its own, but the Solnamugil Doenjang Yesul serves doenjang bibimbap. 103-8 Myeongryun 4-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul (, 4 103-8); +82 2 745 4516

17.Gamjatang() Mostgamjatangplacesareopen24hours,becauseKoreanstendtocravethisstewintheearlyhoursofthe morningasanalternativetohangoverstew. Thisheartydishfeaturespotatoes(gamja),scallions,groundperillaseed,andbitsofporkcookedinapork bonebroth.Therealappealofthisstewliesintheuniquetasteoftheperillaseed,whichisperhapsmore importanttotheflavorthanthemeat.

Geumgangsan Gamjatangi is said to be a favorite of Korean actor Jo In-seong. 345-18 Myeongil-dong, Gangdonggu, Seoul ( , 345-18); +82 2 442 7714 These make traditional pancakes look like white bread.

18.HaemulPajeon() Crunchyandfilling,Koreanpancaketastesbestwhenitcomesstuddedwithshellfish, cuttlefish,andothervarietiesofseafood,tomakehaemul(seafood)pajeon. AndwithitstraditionalcompanionofKoreanricewine,makgeolli,pajeonmakesthe perfectmealforarainyday.

Pajeon Alley, by Kyunghee University, houses some of the most crowded pajeon places in Seoul, and up there at the top is Nageune Pajeon. 139-3 Jegi-dong, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul ( , 139-3); +82 2 926 9077

19.Jjambbong() Thisdishisthesoupier,spiciercounterparttojjajangmyeonandtogethertheyformthecoreofKorean Chinesehomedeliverycuisine. Butalthoughnoodlesdominateintermsofsheerquantity,theonionsandchilioilthatflavorthesoupare whatreallydemandyourattention.Withcopiousamountsofchilioilsaturatedonionsandothervegetables ontopofthenoodles,fewareabletofinishthisdishinitsentirety,butmanytry.

Hongshiwon, Bongchun-dong 871-77, Gwanak-gu, Seoul (, 871-77 ); +82 883 4339

20.Sundae() Anotherstreetfood,sundaeisatypeofsausage,similarincontenttobloodpudding, withrootsinMongoliancuisine.Realsundaeispigintestinewithastuffingof cellophanenoodles,vegetables,andmeat,butevenifyoueatthestreetvendor version,whichusesasyntheticreplacementforthepigintestine,youwillstillbe abletoenjoythelungsandliverontheside.Yum.

To sample other varieties of this beloved food, try Wonjo Sundae Town in Sillimdong, where you can pick and choose between several floors packed with soondae sellers. Sillim-dong 1640-31, Gwanak-gu, Seoul ( , 164031); +82 2 884 7565

21.Kongguksu()

Thisseasonaldishmighttasteblandtosome,butonceyoulearntoenjoythesubtleflavorofthebean,you willacquireatasteforthiscold,creamy,texturednoodledishthatnootherdishwillbeabletosatisfyinthe summer. Andifthepale,springgreenjuliennedcucumbersplacedonthehandground,snowwhitesoybeandoesnttip youoff,kongguksuisahighlynutritiousdishthatalsohappenstobevegetarianfriendly.

Matjarang in Daechi-dong is said to have the best kongguksu south of the river. 987-7 Daechi 2-dong, Gangnamgu, Seoul (, 2 987-7); +82 2 563 9646

22.Kalguksu() Badkalguksucanbeverybad.Butgoodkalguksuisdivine. Althoughmostkalguksuplaceswilladdmushrooms,slicedpumpkin,andseafoodor chickentothebasicingredientsofnoodlesandbroth,attheendofthedaykalguksu isaboutthepleasureoftheplain.

You cant get much plainer than the Chanyangjip in Jongno. But dont be fooled by its unsophisticated appearance--this place has been serving kalguksu to the masses since 1965 for 200 a bowl, and shows no sign of slowing down. 27 Donui-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul (, 27); +82 2 743 1384

23.OxBoneSoup() Thisoxbonesoupiseasilyrecognizablebyitsmilkywhitecolorandsparse ingredients.Atmost,seolleongtangbrothwillcontainnoodles,finelychopped scallions,andafewstripsofmeat. Yetforsuchafrugalinvestment,theresultsarerewarding.Thereisnothinglikea steamingbowlofseolleongtangonacoldwinterday,saltedandpepperedtoyour taste,andcomplementedbynothingmorethanriceandggakdugikimchi.

Mapo-Ok in in Mapo-gu serves seolleongtang made from Korean beef, and has two options for seolleongtang: regular and special. 50-13 Yonggang-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul (, 50-13); +82 2 716 6661

24.Tteokguk() OriginallytteokgukwasstrictlyeatenonthefirstdayoftheKoreanNewYeartosignifygoodluckandthe gainingofanotheryearinage.ThecustommakesmoresenseifyouthinkinKorean:idiomatically,growinga yearolderisexpressedaseatinganotheryear. Butthisdishofovalricecakeslices,egg,driedlaverseaweed,andoccasionallydumplingsinameatbased brothisnoweatenallyearround,regardlessofageorseason.

The tteokguk at Gung in Insadong serves tteokguk with meaty dumplings all year long -- exceptingholidays. 3011 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu Seoul (, 30-11); +82 2 733 9240

. 25.Doenjangjjigae() Thishumble,instantlyrecognizablestewisoneofKoreasmostbelovedfoods. Theingredientsaresimple:doenjang,tofu,mushrooms,greenpeppers,scallions, andananchovyortwoforaddedflavor.Addriceandkimchionthesideandyou haveamealnoothersidedishesnecessary. Whileitsdistinctivepiquancymightthrowsomeoff,thatverytasteiswhatkeepsit ontheKoreantableweekafterweek.

Enjoy a bowl of doenjang jjigae at Ttukbaegijip for a mere 4,000, celebrated for its deep and satisfying flavor. 5-1 Gwancheol-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul (, 5-1); +82 2 2265 5744

. 26.Galbi() Galbi,whichmeansrib,cantechnicallycomefromporkandevenchicken,but whenyoujustsaygalbisansmodifiers,youretalkingaboutthickslabsofmeat

marinatedinamixtureofsoysauce,choppedgarlic,andsugarandgrilledoveraproperfire. Ofcourse,beefgalbicanbeusedtomakesoup(galbitang)andsteamedgalbi(galbijjim).Butthesedishes, whileexcellentintheirownright,areovershadowedbytheirgrilledleader.

Sure, there are less expensive options out there, but Galbi can be a high-end dish, and the notorious Byeokje Galbi in Bangi doesnt let you forget it. 205-8 Bangi 1-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul (, 1 205-8); +82 2 415 5522

27.Chuncheondakgalbi( ) OntheotherendofthegalbispectrumisthelowbudgetstudentfavoriteChuncheondakgalbi. Inthisdish,chunksofchickenaremarinatedinasauceofchilipasteandotherspices,andstirfriedinalarge panwithtteok,cabbage,carrots,andslicesofsweetpotato. Becauseofthetendencyofthereddakgalbisaucetosplatter,itscommontoseemanydinerswearingaprons overtheirclothesastheycookandeat.

At 619 Rib a serving is 9,000; add an order of gamjajeon (potato pancakes) for a break from the spicy. 104-8 Daehyeon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul ( , 104-18); +82 2 313 0619

28.Bossam() AsisfrequentlythecasewithmanyKoreanmeatdishes,Bossamatitscoreis simple:steamedpork. Butkeytothisdishisthatthesteamedporkisslicedintosquaresslightlylarger thanabite,lovinglywrappedinaleafoflettuce,perilla,orkimchi,anddaubedwith adippingsauce.Therearetwotraditionaloptions:ssamjang,madeofchilipaste andsoybeanpaste(doenjang),orsaeujeot,apainfullysaltypinksaucemadeoftiny pickledshrimp. Wrappinganddippingareessential.

Try Nolboo Bossam, where the bossam and its associated side dishes are tied into convenient sets that you can order for reduced prices. Daechi-dong 899-3, Gangnamgu, Seoul (, 899-3); +82 2 556 2232

29.Agujjim() Agujjim,alsoknownasagwijjim,isaseafooddishthatconsistsofanglerfishbraisedonabedofdropwortand beansprout.Itisasspicyasitlooks:theentiredishisabrightreddishcolor,fromthechilipowder,chilipaste, andchilipeppersusedintheseasoning. Thewhite,firmfleshoftheanglerfish,whichisquiterightlycalledthebeefofthesea,ismeatyandfilling. Andthetangleofdropwortandbeansproutthatmakeupthemajorityofthedisharentjusttherefor decoration:thedropwortistartandthebeansproutscrunchy.

Try the famous agujjim at seafood restaurant Getmaul. Poongwon Building, 449-16 Seongnae-dong, Gangdonggu, Seoul (, 449-16); +82 2 487 2102

30.Japchae() Japchae,asidedishofcellophanenoodles,pork,andassortedvegetablessauted insoysauce,makesitsmostfrequentappearancesatfeastsandpotlucks. Therearenopreciserulesgoverningthepreciseassortmentofvegetablesin japchae,butmostrecipeswontstrayfarfromthestandardcollectionof mushrooms,carrots,spinach,onions,andleeks.

Sandong gyojagwan in Sinsa-dong serves a mean platter of chili pepper japchae. Customers can also opt for a smaller, less expensive sample of the noodles by going with the japchaebap, which is just another way of referring to japchae with rice on the side. 615 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (, 615); +82 2 514 2608

31.Dubukimchi()

Thisappropriatecombinationofblancheddubu(tofu),sautedkimchi,andstirfriedporkisathreesome madeinheaven.Thedubu,whichhasthepotentialtobeblandonitsown,hastheporktoaddsubstanceand thekimchitoaddflavor. Anotherstalwartcompaniontoalcohol,especiallyatmoretraditionalbarsandrestaurants,dubukimchimakes sojualmostpalatable.

Try some dubukimchi, without or without soju, at Wonjo Halmeoni Dubujip. 2/F Inwang Building, 85-9 Gugi-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul; ( 85-9 2 ); +82 2 379 6276

32.Hobakjuk() Thisviscous,yelloworangejuk,orporridge,getsitsdistinctivecolorandflavor fromthepumpkin,itsnamesakeanditsmainingredient.Thepumpkinispeeled, boiled,andblendedwithglutinousriceflour,andtheresultisabowlofporridge socreamy,golden,andsweetthatinsomewaysitseemsmorepuddingthan porridge.Hobakjukisoftenservedasanappetizertomeals,orasahealthfood: itissupposedlybeneficialtothosesufferingfromintestinalproblems.The specificsofmedicinalscienceaside,itsnotdifficulttoimaginethatthismellow, mildlyflavoredmealcanheal.

Daeyeo, 44-4 Youido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (, 44-4); +82 2 783 6023

33.Gyeranjjim() Thissidedish,inwhichaneggisbeatenintoabowl,lightlysaltedandsteamedintoaspongy,paleyellowcake, isabsolutelyessentialwheneatingspicyfood. Similarinconsistencytosofttofu(sundubu),butwithmoreflavor,gyeranjjimissometimesmadewithdiced mushrooms,carrots,zucchini,leeks,andsesameseedssprinkledontop.

The gyeranjjim at Korean barbecue restaurant Guiga, if lacking in vegetable toppings, is nonetheless as fluffy and yellow as gyeranjjim should be. Changcheon-dong 52-8, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul (, 52-8); +82 2 326 2292

. 34.Naengmyeon() InKoreawewaitforsummerjustsowecanstarteatingnaengmyeoneveryweek. Thecoldbuckwheatnoodlesaregreatasalightweightlunchoptionorafter Koreanbarbecue,asawaytocleansethepalate.Mulnaengmyeon,orwater naengmyeon,hailingfromNorthKoreasPyeongyang,consistsofbuckwheat noodlesinatangymeatorkimchibroth,toppedwithsliversofradish,cucumber, andegg,andseasonedwithvinegarandKoreanmustard(gyeoja).Bibim naengmyeon,ormixnaengmyeon,generallycontainsthesameingredients,but minusthebroth.Thenoodlesareinsteadcoveredinasaucemadefromchili paste.
Try the naengmyeon at Sambong Naengmyeon -- basic, inexpensive, and tasty! (Jamwon-dong 58-24, Seocho-gu, Seoul (, 58-24 ); +82 2 599 3367

35.Dotorimuk() Thislightbrownjello,madeofacornstarch,isservedcold,frequentlywitha toppingofchoppedleeksandsoysauceasasidedish,orasaningredientin Dotorimuksaladsanddotorimukbap(dotorimukwithrice).Liketofu,dotorimuk, whilenutritiousandveganfriendly,cantasteblandonitsown.Theflavor,which isunique,canonlybedescribedasacornbitterratherthannutty.Butalthough dotorimukmaybeanacquiredtaste,mostdotorimukdisheshaveahostof appetizingspicesandcondimentstohelptheprocessalong.

Simhaksan Dotoriguksu in Paju has a dotorimuk muchim that is spicy, sweet, and

fresh. 1096-4 Dongpae-ri, Gyoha-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do ( , 1096-4); +82 31 941 3628

36.MudfishSoup() Thisspicysouphasaconsistencyclosertothatofstew.Althoughmashedandboiledtothepointwhereitis unrecognizable,chueotangisnamedforthefreshwatermudfish(chueo)thatconstitutesthemainingredient. Butthesellingpointofthissoupisthecoarseyetsatisfyingtextureofthemudfishandthevegetablesmung beansprouts,driedradishgreens,sweetpotatostems,andmostofallthethin,delicateoutercabbage leaves.

The chueotang at Gumasan sells authentic Southern-style chueotang for 9,000 a bowl. 43 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (, 43); +82 2 782 3269

37.Bulgogi() IfgalbirepresentsKoreanbarbecue,thenbulgogisplayingfieldisKoreancuisineas awhole.Thiswellknownsweetmeatdish,whichhasexistedinsomeformforover athousandyears,washautecuisineduringtheJoseonDynasty. Thedishisalsoafusionfavorite:bulgogiflavoredburgersarepartofthemenuat fastfoodfranchiseLotteria,andtherehavealsobeensightingsofother adaptationslikethebulgogipanini.

If you just want some old-school open-fire bulgogi, head over to Samwoojeong for this quintessential Korean grilled beef. 40-1 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu, Seoul (, 40-1); +82 2 2143 7895

38.Ppeongtwigi() IfyouveeverbeenluckyenoughtogetstuckindaytimeSeoultraffic,youwillsee theppeongtwigisellersemergefromnowhereandparkthemselvesinthecenterof thehighway.Theirfearlessnessisasuresignthatyourcarwontbebudgingfora whileyet.Ppeongtwitiisonomatopoeic.Theppeongrepresentsthesoundthat ricemakesasitpops,andtherereallyisntmuchelsetothesnackbutthat popping.Ifyourefeelingtiredofallthegreasy,barbecueflavored,chocolate covered,andoverpackagedsnacksthatmoststoresstocktoday,tryahandfulof thisrelativelySpartantreat.Itsunexpectedlyaddictive. The best places to find it are at the local seller down the street. If you can't find him, order online at Jangsu Gangnaengi. 39.Nakjibokkeum() Inthisenduringfavorite,octopusisstirfriedwithvegetablesinasauceofchili paste,chilipowder,greenpeppers,andchilipeppersingredientsthatwould bespicyenoughontheirown,butwhichallcongregatetocreateoneextra fierydish.Whenitsdoneright,thechewy,tenderoctopusswimsinathick, darkred,caramelizedsauce,sogoodthatyoucanignorethefactthatitsets yourmouthaflametokeepeating.
Baetgodong in Gangnam specializes in stir-fried baby octopus and squid. Their prices are above average, but then again, so is their taste. Pop in at lunchtime to enjoy their slightly reduced rates. Sinsa-dong 663, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (, 663 );+82 2 514 8008

. 40.Bingsu() Inthisdelectablesummerdessert,sweetenedredbeans(pat)andtteokare servedonabedofshavedice(bingsu).Variationswillincludecondensedmilk, misutgaru,syrup,icecream,andcornflakes.Thenthereare,ofcourse,the

variationsonthebingsu,wherethepatissometimesentirelyreplacedbyicecreamorfruit.Classicpatbingsu, however,istoobelovedtolosegroundtothenewcomerscomesummer,everybakeryandfastfood restaurantinSeoulwillhavepatbingsuonitsdessertmenu.

C Four Cake Boutique in Sinsa-dong has, among the other bingsu varieties on its menu (milk tea bingsu, green tea bingsu), the classic patbingsu. 529-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (C4, 529-4); +82 549 9946

From 7 Korean soups for the soul

Dongtaejjigae(),Pollockstew Another great hangover cure. Pollockisavarietyofwhitefishsimilartocod,anditappearsinKorean soupeitherfrozen(dongtae)orifyoucangetitfresh(saengtae). Jjigaescanembraceahodgepodgeofingredients,inthiscase,pollock, dashi,whiteradishes,greenonions,tofu,beansprouts,andanchovies. Broughttotheboil,theycreateanintoxicatingstew.Thebrothis complexandspicy,witharefreshingherbaceousflavorfromthe additionoftheleafychrysanthemumherbknownascrowndaisy ().
Dependingontherestaurant,thesoupmightalsoincludepollockroealongwiththemeatofthefish. (Yeonji Ulkeundongtaeguk) 120-7 Jongro-5, Jongro-gu ( 5 120-7); +82 2 763 9397; open Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; 20,000

Samgyetang(),Chickensoup Don't forget to split open the chicken for the gelatinous goodies inside. TheKoreanspinonchickensoupconsistsofanentireyoungchicken, stuffedwithjujubes,garlic,stickyrice,andmostimportantly,ginseng, andbroughttoaroilingboil.Whilethissoupisatraditional,Korean tonic,enjoyedonthethreehottestdays(thedogdays)ofsummer, subscribingtotheideaof"yiyeolchiyeol"(),whichmeans tofightheatwithheat.Thereisntanyreasonthough,nottotake advantageofitsrestorativepropertiesandsoothingbrothwhenyouresickandcravingyourmotherschicken souporwhenit'scold.Thismightactuallyoneupit.
Hosu Samgytang ( ) 342-325 Shingil-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu ( 342-325) +82 02 848 2440; open daily, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; 12,000

Tteokguk(),Ricecakesoup Nothing says "Happy New Year" like a bowl of tteokguk. KoreansringintheLunarNewYearwiththismeatybrothfilledwith ricecakesandgarnishedwithseaweedflakesandthinlyslicedegg, butyoucanhavethisfillingbowlofsoupanytimeoftheyear. Unlikethesoft,gooeyricecakes,whichgettheirconsistencyfrom sweetriceflour,thericecakesinthissouparemadefromgaraetteok (),along,whitetubularricecakemadefromnonglutinousrice flour.Inthesoup,thethincoinsofricecakemaintaintheirshapefora pleasantlychewyexperience.Tryitplainwithjustthericecakes,or addsomedumplings,ormandu()ifyouwantalittlemorevarietyinyourbowl.

 571-30 Gongneung 1-dong, Nowon-gu ( 1 571-30) +82 02 975 2407; open Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m., 5:30 p.m.-8 p.m.; 7,000

Uhmooktang(),Fishcakesoup At pojangmachas (street vendors) everywhere. Uhmook()alsoknownasodeng()arefishcakesthatcome inavarietyofshapesandsizes,fromlittleseafoodballstotirelike shapestothethinsheetsthatlooklikeasinewaveonabamboo skewer.Uhmooktangisaclassic"anju,"thatis,drinkingfood,and youcanhaveithotpotstylewithajumbleofdifferentshapedand sizedfishcakeskeweredinabubblingbroth.Youcanalsoenjoya cheap,lowcommitmentversiononthestreetwhereyoullfindthe longskewersoffishcakescookingnexttotheddeokbokki() slatheredinafiery,redsauce. Gomtang(),Oxtailsoup Patience is the key ingredient when cooking oxtail soup. Gomtangisabareboneskindofsoup;itconsistsofthreeingredients: oxtail,salt,andgreenonionsforgarnish(water,too,ifyouwantto considerthataningredient).Thesimplicitythoughmakesthecraft clearwhenitsbad,itswateryandinsipid,whenitsgood,its divine.Thebrothisamilkywhite,andtheflavorisdeepand soothing.Itisthekindofsoupthatwindsitswaythroughyourbody andeasesyourachesandsniffles.Attainingthatlevelofbroth thoughisatrialinpatience,expertise,andusuallyaheavilyguarded (family)secret.
Hadongkwan (), Jung-gu Myeong-dong 1-ga 10-4 ( 1 10-4); +82 2 776 5656; 7 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; closed first and third Sunday of every month; www.hadongkwan.com

Seolleongtang(),Brisketsoup Seolleongtang dates back to the Goryeo Dynasty. Seolleongtangisaclosecousinofgomtang:thebrothhasasimilaropaquewhitecolorandnourishingbroth. Thebrothcomesfromslowcookingbeefbonesandbrisketforhours, evendaysonend. Thesoup,whichoriginatedintheSillaDynasty,wasthedirectresultof adecreefromtheking,whoorderedthecreationofadishthatwould makethemostoutoflimitedresources. Seolleongtangisusuallyservedwithsomenoodles,thinlysliced brisket,andsomegreenonionsandsalttotaste.
415-6 Hongeun-dong, Seodaemun-gu ( 415-6) +82 02 304 0311; open 24 hours; 8,000

Galbitang(),Beefribssoup Customers line up every morning for Budnamjip's galbitang.

Galbitangisanotherhearty,beefsoupfeaturingshortribsthathavebeensimmereduntilthemeatissotender itfallsoffthebone.Unliketheotherbeefsoupsthough,galbitangcanbeenjoyedspicywithsomehot peppersorinitsclassicform. Dontbeafraidtogetinteractivewiththeribs.Thebestwaytogetthosebitsofmeatandtendonstucktothe boneistouseyourhandsandteeth.

(Budnamu Jip), 1340-5 Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu ( 2 1340-5) +82 2 3473 4167; 16,500