Wayfare Magazine

MARCH 2012 | ISSUE 1 | VOLUME 1 | $4
BASEBALL OR BEISBOL
diversity in the ballparks
THE LOBSTER HABIT

seafloor to dinner plate
POINTS OF PORTLAND
little city, big flavor
BOSTON MOBSTERS
hide and seek with whitey bulger
STILL FLYING HIGH

old planes and big fields
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editors note
What if you could find the world in your own city? Its easy to overlook the breadth of culture in the cities we live in, to ignore their diversity, to write off their multiplicity as familiar and Americanized. And yet so many cities, down to each neighborhood, each street, in this country offers a glimpse of the rest of our world. With Wayfare we emphasize this very curiosity, showcasing the rich diversity and culture through the microcosm of American cities. And with that, we present Boston, the Cradle of Liberty, where our nations history began. Thank you for reading, Ben & Alex Editors of Wayfare
| MARCH 2012 | ISSUE 1 | VOLUME 1 | wayfare
alexandra flanders editor

new jersey
alex wants to Be a part of the Conversation every plaCe she goes. where
that is, is still up in the air.
connecticut
Ben would rather Be shooting photos and telling stories from aBroad; awesome are the wanderers, the lonely are the statiC ones.
Caroline ganson art director

new york
Caroline wants to explore all seven Continents, Capturing their essenCes through food and drink.
sam galanis production manager

massachusetts
sam wants to tell the worlds story in her own way. she also wants to go to every major City in the world and deCide for herself whiCh is the Best.
wayfare | MARCH 2012 | ISSUE 1 | VOLUME 1 |
to jo ur n ey
Ben cooper editor
to travel
liZ peters art director

new jersey liZ aspires to live out of a suitCase as she travels around and writes aBout the the world.
magaZine
a.j. herrmann copy editor

new jersey
a.j. is a freak for all things sports

and musiC, and proClaims to Be
magaZine
Boston's Biggest yankee fan.
weilynn chang copy editor

california
weilynn aspires to Capture the little

details that make a plaCe or person espeCially enChanting.
fro to go to and
dan wroclawski production manager
new jersey
dan desires to fly to and from exotiC loCales and write aBout them all.
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Local Color
Baseball Beers around Boston Politics Food Stress Music in Boston
HIGHFLYING
Todaytouristshardlynotice PlumIslandAirportontheir waytothebeach,butthe quietfieldhasamagnificent historystretchingbackover acentury.
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THELOBSTERHABIT
Whenfoodiesthinkof New Englandandseafood,they thinkof lobster,butfew knowjusthowthesucculent crustaceanendupontheir plate.
Features
Lobster Music Review Crime Immigration Boston Wine
Beyond
Theatre Zumba Flying Cape Cod Portland
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BOSTONBREWS
WhileSamAdamslagerscall NewEnglandhome,sodo manyotherhidden breweries.
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BOSTONMOBSTERS
Despitethecityscharm, deepbeneathitssurfacelies ahistoryfilledwithblood andcorruption.
24 SHOOTINGMITT ROMNEY
Onephotographerrecountsthe excitementandcheerfor Republicanpresidentialcandidate MittRomneyatarallyinNew Hampshire.
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THELONGROADTO ASYLUM
Manypeopleemigrateto theUnitedStateseveryyear. butitcanprovetobequite thestruggle.
28 EASTERNEUROPES QUINTESSENTIALSTEW
EveryAmericanequatesEuropean cuisinewiththeFrench,Spanish, Italian,andGreeks,butnoone everthinksof thePolish.Yetone Polishdishshowsthattheycan takeontheculinaryheavyweights.
34 STRESSLESS
Everyonehasexperiencedstress, buttherearemanycuresfrom acrosstheglobe.
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THEZUMBACRAZE
WhatstartedasaSouth Americandancehasturned intoanexerciseexperience thatissweepingtheglobe.
38CITYWIDESOUND
Someof thenationsmost celebratedbandsmadetheirstart intheBeanandgavethecitysucha richmusicalhistory.
50MUSICACUBANA PICANTE
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THEATREOFNERVES
FrenchplaywrightYasmina Rezaisperhapsthemost successfulforeignlanguage playwrightinrecentyears. Whatisaboutherrecent playGodof Carnagethat hasaudiencesonbothsides of thechannelsocharmed?
LosHermanosArangos,a traditionalCubanfolkbandlitup BerkleesPerformanceCenterthis Winter.Itwastheirfirst performanceinAmerica,but hopefullynottheirlast.
68TRAVESSIAURBAN WINERY
TravessiaWineryindowtownNew Bedford,MAmakeswinewithonly Massachusettsgrowngrapes.This featurelooksintoitsbeginning andwhatthisurbanwineryisall about.
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BASEBALLORBEISBOL
Thecurrentstateof diversityinthegameof baseballmightseematan all-timehigh,butisbaseball doingenoughtopromote andperpetuatealevel playingfieldforeveryone?
92WINTERONTHECOAST
Althoughapopularsummer destination,CapeCodoffers plentytododuringthecoldwinter months.
96PORTLAND,MAINE
Thissmallcitynorthof Boston makesforaperfectgetawaywith manyculinarydelightsandquaint shopsnearthecoast.
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LOCAL COLOR
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Written by A.J.. Herrmann
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Baseball, Americas pastime, is quite possibly the most diverse, and most multicultural professional sport played in this country today. With members of all races and countries present on Major League rosters around the country, every American citizen has someone to relate to. Asians, African Americans, Latinos, and several other nationalities are all represented in the Big Show, as Major League Baseball (MLB) has come to be known. Still, there are many critics of the games diversity practices, who continue to lament the lack of diversity in administrative positions, and managerial positions around the diamond. To figure out how to remedy these disparities, there is but one thing we can ask: WWJRD? (What would Jackie Robinson do?) Surely with his immeasurably significant impact on the game and unique experience with racism in baseball, he could and would provide tremendous advice. Furthermore, in todays game, dozens of Cubans who have defected from Castros regime suit up in Major League uniforms and take the field. How do their journeys to the Big Leagues play a role in the grand scheme of diversity in the game? To best assess the current racial atmosphere of MLB, its useful to look over the facts and
figures. TIDES (The Institute for Diversity and Ethics in Sport), based in the University of Central Florida, is likely the leading entity when it comes to examining the state of diversity in sports. Headed by its three Directors, Drs. Richard Lapchick, Keith Harrison, and Fitz Hill, the TIDES program, serves as a comprehensive resource for issues related to gender and race in amateur, collegiate and professional sports. The Institute publishes the internationally recognized Racial and Gender Report Card, an assessment of hiring practices in coaching and sport management in professional and college sport. Report cards are issued for each major professional sports league, providing invaluable evidence and empirical numbers to help analyze the shortcomings and triumphs in the realm of diversity for each sport. On April 21, 2011, TIDES published its Racial and Gender Report Card for Major League Baseball, and found a mixture of positive and negative conclusions. After steady improvement in both [racial and gender] areas for several years, this year there were decreases in the percentages of people of color and women in several categories. Certainly this is not the best way to start off a summary of the studys findings, nor was it what Bud Seligthe Commissioner of
in Americas Favorite Pastime
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Major League Baseball who has made it one of his own personal goals to boost diversity in and around the Leaguewanted to see. However, despite these slight decreases, MLB scored well, earning an A for racial diversity and B- for gender diversity. When grading teams, front offices, owners and other administrative and executive achievements in racial and gender diversity, TIDES bases its report card grading on a simple, but vastly important question: Are we playing fair when it comes to sports? Does everyone, regardless of race or gender, have a chance at bat or to operate a team? This basis for judgment seems completely reasonable, and helps dismiss any outside criticisms or questions of ulterior racial or gender motives. TIDES just wants to keep the people informed of the state of the game, and help the League to improve upon its deficiencies if necessary. Chief Director Richard Lapchick recapped 2011s findings and offered his own perspective on the outcomes of the study. Bud Selig has helped make MLBs central and team front offices look more like America Jackie Robinsons dream was to see more African-Americans playing, coaching and in the front office. While this year there has been a slight decrease in the grade for racial and gender hiring practices, there has been a long-term consistent and dramatic increase in the role of people of color and women regarding who runs the game MLB has made great strides with diversity in who runs the game and today is one of the best in sports. However, there is clearly room for improvement, especially regarding hiring more women into professional positions. Lapchicks concerns are warranted, but the fact that Commissioner
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Selig has taken these statistics to heart and actively looks to improve upon them shows that baseball is heading in the right direction. Roger O. Crockett, an award-winning contributor for the Harvard Business Review, and former deputy bureau chief for BusinessWeek, also weighed in on the diversity question in baseball in an article published in 2010. Crockett compared the breakdown of racial populations in MLB to those found in corporate America at large, citing a survey from the same year conducted by New Jersey Senator Robert Menendez. Crockett called MLBs relatively high marks from the 2010 TIDES survey laudable, saying that baseball understands what corporate America typically doesnt. He also goes on to state that, minorities represent about 34% of the nations private sector employees, but they make up just 14% of the directors on Fortune 500 corporate boards and 10% of top executives. This breakdown mirrors the same kind of deficiencies that MLB has the higher up the administrative food chain you go. While there may be many black athletes in baseball, the comparatively low number of managers and front office staff members leave more to be desired. Theres always room for improvement. Crockett spotlighted the Chicago White Sox, whose owner, Jerry Reinsdorf, for a wealthy middle-aged white man, has a pleasingly healthy attitude towards race. Reinsdorf also owns the Chicago Bulls, one of the NBAs most iconic teams, and sets the bar for hiring diverse employees for every level job for both of his teams. Reinsdorf hired the first black general manager in Chicago sports history, when he brought in Ken Williams to run the White Sox
organization. Furthermore, the White Sox were managed by outspoken and oft controversial Venezuelan personality Ozzie Guillen from 2004 to 2011, where he won a World Series with the club in 2004. Guillen eventually left to coach the new Miami Marlins prior to the beginning of this season, but Reinsdorf s willingness to hire minorities for higher-up managerial jobs shows a precedent that the rest of the League should feel compelled to follow. A 1996 book titled Creating The National Pastime: Baseball Transforms Itself, by G. Edward White features an excerpt from a Sporting News article from 1923 stating that: In a democratic, catholic, real American game like baseball, there has been no distinction raised except tacit understanding that no player of any other race has been barred The Mick, the Sheeny, the Wop, the Dutch and the Chink, the Cuban, the Indian, the Jap or the so-called Anglo-Saxonhis nationality is
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and cuban pictured: yoenis cespedes, one of this years hottest free agents . defector takes batting practice with the as as Manny raMirez looks on
never a matter of moment if he can pitch, hit, or field. This concise, no-nonsense outlook is the simplest way to approach the notion of race and diversity in the game itself. If a player can perform, he plays. However, this straightforward approach has not made its way to every corner of the MLB universe. Weve still left the question unasked, until now. How would Jackie Robinson feel about the state of todays game and the continued racial and gender inequalities that mar the gloss of Americas favorite game. To kick off the 1972 World Series between the Cincinnati Reds and the Oakland As, the legacy of Jackie Robinson was celebrated. His acceptance into the major leagues 25 years earlier had finally broken the color barrier that kept so many supremely talented and skilled baseball players out of the uniforms of the big league teams. Robinson threw out the ceremonial first pitch, and offered a few words to the Cincinnati crowd that day expressing his sentiments about race and the game. Im extremely proud and pleased to be here this afternoon, a gray-haired Robinson said, but must admit Im going to be tremendously more pleased and more proud when I look at that third base coaching line one day and see a black face managing in baseball. For one man, who did more than any other figure to bring equality and racial tolerance to sports than anyone else, it must have been difficult to accept the glacial pace at which baseball was moving to help bring about more changes to help minority ballplayers. Robinson endured more hate and utter persecution than anyone else had ever had to endure to fight for his chance just to play. The League owed it to him to work to ensure that no such difficulties would ever remain in the
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way of African Americans or any other race. Jackie Robinson would die just ten days after his 1972 World Series speech of a heart attack at the age of 53. In 2011, just before the World Series between the St. Louis Cardinals and Texas Rangers begun, Washington State University Professor of Gender and Race Studies David J. Leonard wrote a piece for the online blog NewBlackMan, titled Aint Much Black in the Fall Classic: Racial Diversity and Baseball. In it, Leonard argues that the consequences of closed parks,
globalization, specialization of sports, prohibitive costs, failing school systems, and expanded prison system has been the steady erosion of baseball. He goes on to state that, beyond the numbers the systematic destruction of the infrastructure that produced both the great African American stars of yesteryear...has left a barren future for African Americans in baseball. These stern assertions underline the overt absence of black ballplayers in the game, with the Cardinals carrying only four AfricanAmericans on the roster, and Texas just one. In recent years, the media have lamented the lack of AfricanAmericans in the game of baseball, citing the rising costs to play on a highly competitive team, and also the end of the careers of iconic figures like Ken Griffey Jr. and Barry Bonds for the black youth to look up to and emulate. Could it be that once again diversity in baseball is on the decline? A New York Times study conducted in 2010 that examined an oft-ignored fact about most MLB teams: third base coaches are rarely minorities. This seemingly insignificant bit of trivia actually reflects a wider trend towards giving the third base coach position, which holds more esteem and importance than first base coach, to white coaches and managers. The third base coach issues signals to the batter, instructs runners on base, and communicates for the manager while hes in the dugout. First base coaches, on the other hand, really only provide slight insights for runners who may land on first. While many players and coaches have reportedly noticed this trend, few cited racism as the motive. Al Bumbry, a black former first base coach for the Boston Red Sox and Cleveland Indians was quoted in the article saying that, its very easy for them to put the minority at
first base, to say we have a minority and we hire minorities. In 2010, there were just seven minority coaches at third base. At first base, there were twenty. Dusty Baker, current manager of the Cincinnati Reds and one of only a few black managers in the game insisted in the article that, baseball communication really has no race, you know what I mean? ...There might be a misconception of intellect. One thing is for sure: there is no shortage of interest in the Latin communities around the world and in America. The TIDES study of 2011 determined that Latino players comprise over a quarter of the Major League, coming in at 27%. Latino communities all over the country revere baseball, and dozens of heroes play the game in cities around North America. Some players even risk life and limb to come to America with the hopes of signing a major league contract and playing baseball professionally. This year, thousands of players will be scouted, developed and managed by MLB workers, looking for the next Roberto Clemente, Sammy Sosa or Manny Ramirez. This year, it could be Yoenis Cespedes. Yoenis Cespedes is a 26-yearold Cuban baseball player, who defected from Cubasomething dozens of other Cubans have done before himand signed a contract with the Oakland As for four years, and $36 million. Baseball prospect expert Kevin Goldstein called Cespedes arguably the best allaround player to come out of Cuba in a generation. This kid has set homerun records in the Cuban national league, and collected three different gold medals for international baseball championships. His 20 minute YouTube video highlighting his immense physical gifts and talents has received more than 150,000 hits online, and caught more than its fair
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Today, the image of the game has been unfathomably tainted by the outbreak of steroid use, but in the coming decades, as we forgive and forget, diversity will be one of the only things left to improve upon.
share of MLB scouts eyes as well. Cespedes journey to the U.S. and to the big leagues provides hope for players all over the world who hang on to the dream of playing pro baseball. The Oakland As beat out several teams in big-market cities to land Cespedes, and will look to the young prospect for not only big offensive numbers this year, but to also attract a bigger demographic in the heavily Latino-populated Bay Area. Cespedes could bring the spark to the Oakland As offense, as well as generate the passion and financial interest in the As team that could propel them to the success the organization has sought for years. If its possible for a Cuban defector to find a home on a major league ball club, it should be possible for anyone of any race to blaze their own trail the same way. So whats being done in the U.S. to help encourage the growth of the next generation of players, so they can replenish the coveted roster spots held by their heroes today? Today, the presence of Little League baseball still can be felt on miniature diamonds peppered across America. Youth baseball is alive and well, but what about in the inner cities? How is MLB striving to spread the game to those who may not be able to afford it or dont live in an area with access to a baseball field? Two such programs
have been put into place to serve these very purposes: MLBs Urban Youth Academies, and the R.B.I. Program. Since 2004, developers and MLB officials have built and maintained academies for urban youth to help them develop as baseball players, as well as provide educational resources for them to help athletes reach their goals on and off the field. Since the initial plans for the first Academy in Compton, CA, similar institutions have been implemented in Florida, Pennsylvania and New Orleans. There is no telling what kind of impact these academies are having in the lives of the student-athletes, but fans everywhere will likely enjoy the resulting stars that come out of these programs and onto baseball fields everywhere. The R.B.I. Program, which advocates for Reviving Baseball in Inner Cities, has done even more to promote the game to all sectors of the population in America. Among its chief tenets, the R.B.I. Program strives to encourage academic participation and achievement, as well as, promote greater inclusion of minorities into the mainstream of the game. This initiative has already taken off in over 200 cities, and boasts a membership of nearly 300,000 underserved youth from ages 5-18. Every one of the 30 MLB clubs supports the R.B.I. Program in some capacity, and even hires within: more than 170 R.B.I. participants have been drafted by MLB teams since the inception of the program in 1989. Famous alumni of R.B.I. include such stars as the Red Sox outfielder Carl Crawford, Yankees ace CC Sabathia, and Phillies MVP shortstop Jimmy Rollins. These programs might be onto something. For one upcoming pitcher, the R.B.I. Program meant the difference between going to college
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or staying home. Kenji Corbisiero, a young player from Compton, earned a special scholarship from the R.B.I. Program, allowing him to attend Marist University in New York. In an interview with Spencer Fordin of MLB.com, Corbisiero said, when I was a young kid, I dreamed of being a college player I never wouldve imagined it could really happen, but R.B.I. has helped me make my dreams come true. Corbisiero suffered from an elbow injury and subsequently transferred from Marist back to a school closer to home, however his baseball career and academic achievements will surely carry over to his new path. Success stories like these can be replicated in cities throughout the country, and will only help to increase diversity, equality and opportunities in the sport of baseball for every segment of the population. So then, after all is said and done, how healthy is diversity in baseball today? Statistically I suppose its not as ideal as it should be, and perhaps there arent as many African-Americans playing as there were decades ago, but doesnt it look like the game is on the upswing? Urban youth development programs are thriving and thousands of youngsters continue to play the game that America has grown to love, players from all over the world find themselves in MLB camps and rise through the ranks hoping for their shot at the Big Show. Baseball has
survived scandals and hardships, but it has never been killed. Today, the image of the game has been unfathomably tainted by the outbreak of steroid use, but in the coming decades, as we forgive and forget, diversity will be one of the only things left to improve upon. Commissioner Bud Selig and his administration have openly made increasing diversity throughout the sport one of their top priorities. Now its time to just sit back and wait for the positive effects to manifest, and for baseball to stay ahead of the diversity curve. Lou Gehrig, legendary Yankee slugger once said, There is no room in baseball for discrimination. It is a national pastime and a game for all. These two simple sentences should be remembered and echoed until baseball ceases to exist. The game belongs to no one because it belongs to all of us.
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beans... forget the this town is all about the
CarolineGanson
br E w
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o anyone who has ever visited Boston, its no surprise that its ranked one of the heaviest drinking cities in America. Without a doubt one thing is true about Beantown: it loves its beer. Home to hops and barley havens such as the Sam Adams and Harpoon breweries, Boston has a unique beer culture scattered with quaint taverns, microbreweries and of course, the beer connoisseurs themselves. In addition to local brews, Boston boasts great places to get that foreign beer fix. Is it a Belgian ale that whets your whistle? Prefer to pretend youre sipping in a German beer garden? You can find that too, without having to head overseas.
Sam Adams Brewery Located in a quiet Jamaica Plain neighborhood, the Sam Adams Brewery is a tourist favorite. In addition to hourly tours and tastings, the entire experience is 100% free. As in no money required. Free. Booze. Need I say more? After visits to classic breweries such as the Guinness Brewery in Dublin and the Heineken Brewery in Amsterdam, the Sam Adams brewery seems like these powerhouses little brother. Small in size, but big in personality and flavor. While they give the same spiel about how beer is made (barley, hops we get it) the tour guides actually make the crowd laugh out loud and this is before any sampling occurs (but trust me, by the 3rd sample the crowd really gets going). After a short walk around the brewery, visitors sit outside in their tasting area for a generous pouring of three different beers. Despite being a local brand, the Boston Beer Company, Sam Adams parent company, announced in 2009 a two-year project with German brewery Bayerische Staatsbrauerei Weihenstephan (dont worry, I cant pronounce it either) to produce a new beer Infinium. After many tastings (... I mean meetings), the Germans and Americans confirmed two things: they were damn good at drinking and making beer. Oh, and the Infinium was born. Described by the brewers as the first new beer style created under the Reingeitgesbot (a document stating the limitations on beers ingredients) in over a hundred years, this champagne-like, pale brew boasts an alcohol content of 10.3%. That should be a fair warning to you to leave the keys in your pocket.
Harpoon Brewery Three letters: UFO. No, Im not talking extraterrestrial here, but this beer is out-of-this-world and can be found brewing along Bostons waterfront. Similar to the way many domestic beers are inspired by their foreign counter parts, the UFO beers were inspired by Harpoon founders Rich Doyle and Dan Kenary and the cloudy beers they witnessed in good ol Germany. The family of five beers compliments the staples that have kept Harpoon a leader in Boston brewing. Harpoons founders keep the foreign influence alive. Each year they take Harpoon employees celebrating certain anniversaries on a beer culture trip through Europe, says Liz Melby, Director of Communications, Traveling through different regions, especially in Bavaria, they tried some great wheat beers that stuck with them. [These experiences] add to the excitement of bringing a locallybrewed unfiltered wheat beer to the east coast. No trip near Bostons waterfront is complete without a stop at this New England classic. Tickets are only five bucks for a tour and, like Sam, provide you with many tasty samples during (perfect for those impatient folk) and after. Immediately you sample the beer while learning about the process, followed by samples from the brewing cellar. This beer is straight from the fermentation tank so theres still some yeast in there,
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but still delicious. If you still didnt get your fill, they sell 64 ounce growlers that are bottled right in front of you at the end of your tour. Their location has done nothing but fuel their success. Boston has a fantastic beer culture. There are dozens of amazing craft breweries right in Massachusetts, says Melby. Bostonians are passionate about supporting their local businesses and that translates to what people drink. We love having people come and visit us at the brewery through our festivals and tours. There is a thriving, vocal, active, engaged and interested community of beer lovers in Boston that makes for a great beer culture. Cambridge Brewing Company Hop across the river to the oldest brewery-restaurant in the Boston area and one of the nations firsts. The knowledgeable staff members always have a great recommendation up their sleeves as the company prides itself on exceptional food and beer pairing. In the 23 years that CBC has been brewing, they have helped to cultivate Bostons unique beer culture. When we began there was a small but enthusiastic consumer base which was largely uneducated but looking for new flavor, says Will Meyers, Brewmaster at CBC, Now craft beer has really been embraced by the mainstream, which has become considerably more educated. The company loves its Cambridge location, which draws open-minded consumers interested in flavor-forward, handcrafted products. Great beer isnt the only
thing that keeps this company thriving. The areas commitment to sustainable, natural efforts makes CBC a perfect addition to the Northeasts food and drink culture. The Boston area is enlightened to the fact that industrially-produced processed food is anathema to a healthy lifestyle, says Meyer. Theyve embraced CBC as weve focused not only on artisanal beers, but food from local farms, sustainably raised meats, local cheeses and the idea that nearly everything is better when handmade. Cambridge Brewing Company keeps things fresh with their limited time selections of their Cask specials. Each day they feature a different brew so brewers and customers alike can experience and enjoy many different flavors. Want to taste them all? Better be a regular here, as specials last only a day or two at most, and often the brew has settled into other patrons bellies within a mere few hours. Brewers have a bold spirit and find inspiration for these new beers everywhere. According to Meyer, Some of our beers are pretty strict interpretations of traditional beer styles from around the world Belgium, England, Germany and beyond. Other beers we literally make up, with inspiration coming from diverse influences like music, art or poetry. While a new song or painting may be the more unusual form of inspiration for these beer experts, other beers are born out of a new cool grain, fruit, hop varietal or yeast strain they want to showcase. We have free reign to brew and have always felt blessed to be in Cambridge, where we have a welleducated and open-minded customer
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base, says Meyer. CBCs customers are always interested in trying new things! Publick House Dim lighting, bustling people and happy chatter fills the air as you walk into this Brookline institution. If comfort had a certain smell, The Publick House is it. Along with their famous mac n cheese and selection of Belgian inspired dishes, this place is any beer drinkers dream. Voted one of the best places to enjoy a beer, the Publick House rotates its selection of draft beers and offers an extensive bottled list to match. Their reserve list features beers from more traditional European beer havens such as Belgium and Germany, and also includes selections from Denmark, Norway, Switzerland and Italy. Celebrating? Try their Biere de Champagne. After these are brewed in Belgium, they are shipped to Champagne, France where they are refermented with Champagne yeast and cave aged before undergoing the method de champenoise classically used to remove the yeast from champagne bottles. Lacking in beer knowledge? In addition to catering to the There are dozens of amazing craft breweries beer elitists the menu right in Massachusetts. Bostonians are passionate breaks down their varieties. However, dont be fooled. about supporting their local businesses, and that This is no amateur hour. translates to what people drink. Their No shots. No pitchers. Policy keeps any possibilities of frat-like tendencies far, far away. My recommendation? Pair their mouth-watering steak tips with Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier. And then another. And another. And another. But really. Feel free to thank me later.
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Jacob Wirth Ein groes bier bitte! Or if you dont speak German, a large beer please! While English is an accepted language at Jacob Wirth, its authentic German atmosphere is on par with its European counterpart. Founded in 1868 in the heart of Bostons theater district, this local watering hole is a legendary institution. The rustic atmosphere is complete with mahogany tables and a massive bar equipped to quench the thirst of Boston residents and visitors alike. Notable brews include personal favorites Paulaner Hefeweizen and Leffe Blonde. In addition they offer 13 other imported drafts, 17 domestic and 27 bottles; however selections change each week.
If all that beer leaves your stomach growling, Jake serves up an authentic German menu in addition to traditional bar food favorites. And if you cant decide to go with a schnitzel or a wurst, they offer a German tasting menu that pairs perfectly with each of their German beers. It begins with a potato pancake complete with cinnamon sour cream and fire roasted apples, followed by wiener schnitzel, your choice of either Knackwurst, Bratwurst or Weissweurt German potato salad and sauerkraut included paired with Hofbrau Original Munich Lager and German chocolate cheesecake paired with Schneider Aventinus Doppelbock. Its a feast sure to take you both back in time and across seas. Guten Appetit!
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The Lower Depths Just a hop, skip and a jump from Fenway Park, is Kenmore Square's The Lower Depths. Tiny on both the outside and inside, it's a mystery how this place even contains its extensive beer selection. Unless you're the ultimate beer snob, chances are you'll be overwhelmed by the menu, but have no fear! The Lower Depths staff is the utmost knowledgeable and willing to guide you in your drinking journey through their fantastic recommendations and entertaining banter. Pair your beer with either tator-tots or their famous $1 hot dogs with the option to add any and every topping imaginable (after all, you are near a ball park). One downside to this place is that it's cash only so come prepared. Deep Ellum A trip to Allston is worth it when you arrive at Deep Ellum. It is a small, dimly lit restaurant that combines an intimate setting with limited seats at the bar and a few tables inside. When the weather warms up, they open a back patio perfect for enjoying their wide selection of brews. They feature 28 beers on draft and 80 in bottles. Founded with a desire to create an atmosphere where patrons could enjoy and explore the variety of tastes and flavors offered in a fun and unassuming atmosphere, the bar maintains its appreciation of craft beer. The name Deep Ellum comes from an area of Dallas known for its fabulous music, incomparable food and enticing nightlife since the early 1900s. Founders Aaron Sanders and Max Toste hope to invoke this same spirit in its guests and welcome those intrigued to join their ever-evolving concept and community. Much of Deep Ellums success is attributed to the area. Boston has a good craft
culture, people look for seasonal and specialty beers when they go out to eat or go to a package store, says brewer Tim Morse. Drinkers can look forward to selections including Belgiums well known Chimay Rouge, Orval and Trappist; lesser known German and Belgian beers as well as domestic favorites such as Smuttynose, Pretty Things and Stone Brewing Company.
officials made this their go-to spot and the pubs ale their go-to drink. The tavern itself is small in size compared to its impressive history. Tables are typically hard to come by, but the atmosphere encourages lively conversation and windows allow customers to peer out into Bostons downtown streets. Whether youre looking for a place with character to have a
People from all walks of life have stopped here to whet their whistle, making it one of the most historical places to grab a beer.
Bell-in-Hand Touristy? Yes. Tradition? Absolutely. Bell-in-Hand is a Boston classic dating back to 1795. Located at the heart of Boston's tavern culture, this staple doesn't boast an amazing selection of beers aside from the Sam Adams' Brick Red and the Bell's own brew. However, people from all walks of life have stopped here to whet their whistles, making it one of the most historical places to grab a beer. What began as a gathering place for printers and politicians, sailors and students, Bell-in-Hand quickly became the most famous alehouse in the city. Especially when it comes to beer, two is always better than one and that is exactly what led to the taverns early notoriety. Because of the ales thick consistency, it was served in two mugs one for the ale and the other for the froth. It wasnt long before journalists, lawyers, actors and city drink and share a few laughs with a friend or want to taste the latest and greatest brews, Boston has it all. Already known for its dignified history, sumptuous seafood and loyal sports fanatics, Boston can add brewing haven to its long list of repertoires. So come one, come all and enjoy a bit of history, an explosion of flavor and some good times in one of Bostons great beer destinations.
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My Evening Shooting Mitt.
ByBenjaminCooper
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How my first time shooting the high profile GOP presidential candidate on his grinding, Etch-A-Sketch campaign trail left a dirty feeling in my mouth.
It was my first time working under the misunderstood media label. As a journalism student for the past four years, I never thought my work would enter such a current of mainstream readership that ideology and taste might figure so prominently in others stereotyping of my work, and consequently, my person; but I encountered just that situation waiting to photograph the Grand Old Party presidential candidate Mitt Romney as he spoke to supporters at the Boston Copley Hotel the evening polls closed on Super Tuesday. On assignment for class, I found myself sandwiched between two enthusiastic political students and the improvised bike-rack-aisle Romney was to walk down on his way to the podium later in the evening. Like all in attendence, the two students exhibited a tense, expecting electricity waiting for the announcement of closing polls and the states Romney would win; all told, he took six of the eleven states voting that day, including Ohio after a neck-and-neck contest with fellow candidate Rick Santorum. I couldnt help but think of a time just four years earlier when I had the chance to ogle a presidential candidate, then-Senator Obama, when he spoke in Hartford. It was a decision made on a whim on a rainy January day in my senior year of high school; after eight years of the Republican, I felt my best intentions were reflected in the Democrat.
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Looking at those two business students, it was easy to understand their excitement and enthusiasm in supporting their candidate, in them I saw myself. Before finding my spot, I had been on the floor, shooting features for class. I focused my shots on reactions; a group of supporters stood around a high table, watching former Speaker Gingrichs rally speech, televised from Georgia. They chuckled. They scoffed. They munched on little cheeseburgers from a buffet table gourmet little patties, not pink-slime served on little potato buns. A selection of grated cheeses, sliced pickles, diced onions, and fine mustards and ketchups accompanied the munchies, the finger-food of the 1%. Three friends, all registered Democrats, had heard about the rally through the Twitter-sphere, and decided to register for attendance. Call it infiltration, crashing, or just being there for the free finger-food; all were accurate enough. They smiled and took pictures with the Romney bumper-stickers they had pledged their emails to get. They had paused at a gift table where campaign volunteers were
selling shirts and bundles of paraphernalia at inflated prices a short sleeve shirt was $30, and long sleeve $36 That extra fabric adds up, one friend chided. They made their way to the bar, but were dismayed to find drinks at equally exaggerated prices; $9 Bud Lights and $12 glasses of champagne. I made my way to the two other BU photographers I was shooting with at the press risers. It was essentially a pen in the back of the ballroom that our press passes restricted us to, separated crudely from the supporters again by bike-racks. I looked at my gear and realized how unprepared I was for the night; I had been shooting close on a 16-36mm, but from the risers, a hundred feet back, that lens would never get the photo needed by a publication; youve seen it before, the typically zoomed-in shot from a 300 or 400mm of Romney and his supporters behind him that every other news service would be running. Ryan, a graduate student in the photojournalism department spotted my dilemma and suggested a remedy. Shoot close. Shoot the equipment youve got, dont try to B.S. it here from the back. I couldnt tell if he was being crude or helpful, but at that very moment someone scooted by me, silently
passing through the de-pressed zone and into the crowd of supporters I realized I needed to wade through for my shot. I took the wonderful, dangling press credentials from my neck and stuck them in my back pocket. I rolled down my sleeves to conceal the fact that I didnt have an entry bracelet. I looked back at Ryan and he gave me a nod. I crossed the picket, camera in hand, and shed my press mantle, becoming a supporter. I shuttered, and made my way to the front. iPhones and point-and-shoots were held up in the air like television antennae; high, as if to get the best reception. The crowds milled about. The two students discussed fiscal policy - something about how Romney cut the $1.5 billion deficit in Massachusetts, and the other chimed in on his spending cuts. Their conversation turned to the campaign. They were two of the younger members of his campaign, and were enjoying the success of the evening with bottles of the $9 Bud Light. I had found my spot by the aisle and waited for what felt like eternity as the polls closed across the country and results were projected on two screens in the back. Romney was doing well. I had lost track of time, but somewhere around 10 Romney emerged from behind a curtain and approached the stage. Introduced by Kerry Healey, Lieutenant Governor during his time in office, Romney began his paces
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He moved closer to me, filling the shot completely. i framed his extended arm reaching out towards a supporter, and shot. i repeated furiously...
shaking hands on the opposite side of the aisle. I shot him as he shook the successive hands of his supporters: a dad with his daughter on his shoulders, a youth with a yarmulke, a 30-something with a Red Sox cap on. Then he rose to the podium. I could care less what he said in the ten to fifteen minutes he stood up there, but I know that my first worthwhile photo came as he finished, inviting his family up to the podium for a big public hug. I shot them, and thought about how peculiar it must be to be part of a political family like that. Did the youngest family members fully comprehend their patriarchs moment? Romney descended the stairs and began his hand-shaking round from the opposite edge. Slowly he made his way around the throng of supporters to where I lay in wait to shoot a close up. Hand by hand I measured his progress. Time seemed to stand still as he shook the hands of those just beyond my viewfinder. But when he came into view, I released the shutter wildly. He moved closer to me, filling the shot completely. I framed his extended reaching out towards a
supporter, and shot. I repeated furiously, not chimping, not taking my eye from the viewfinder. My metering correct, I shot as he moved his eyes from the students on my left to an elderly woman on my right. I shot as he shifted his hand in preparation to shake hers. I shot as one of his aides put a hand on his shoulder. I shot as the aide whispered in his ear. I shot as he paused. I shot as he brought his hand up to wave goodbye. I shot as he backed away. I regret that my eyes didnt focus on his face in the moment, but rather his body language. But s he withdrew, I realized I had shot my first political figure. I had gotten my shot. I exited the hall and stepped into the press pen, joining Ryan and the other BU reporters already editing their material. The foreign press had their corner, we students had our own. All the big American news outlets had already split. I thanked Ryan for his advice, and boasted about my shot. Two Italians from the foreign press table brought out a flask and poured its contents into two glasses then resumed their work. We filed our photos, our captions, packed away our gear, then left for the evening.
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Bigos...
that? at is wh
An authentic Polish stew with surprising flavors
DanielWroclawski
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When I decided to explore a cuisine that I have never cooked before, I almost immediately thought about my Polish heritage and Eastern European cuisine. When Americans think of European cuisine, they think of the French, Greeks, Italians, but not the Polish. I realized that it is a type of cuisine that most people are not very familiar with, despite the rich culinary heritage of the region. In my quest for an Eastern European dish to try, I searched for popular Polish dishes, completely unaware of just how many native dishes there are in Poland. I settled
on bigos, which is known in English as Polish Hunters Stew. Bigos is rumored to be Lithuanian in origin and has been a part of Polish cuisine for centuries, about 700 years according to Hank Shaw of SimplyRecipes.com. It consists primarily of cabbage and any variety of meats. There are numerous variations of the dish by region and even by individual families. Every family in Poland or in Eastern Europe has their own little twist on it, said Andrew Cornelisse, head chef of the acclaimed Caf Polonia in Boston. The stew also has
Just soMe of the Many ingredients that can go in bigos.
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a reputation for becoming more flavorful the longer it cooks or sits refrigerated. It can even be added to continuously over days, becoming a never ending source of food. This may seem strange in our American culture, but it was quite common in times when food was rare in Eastern Europe. Families would add whatever food they had to keep the stew going. Yet, food is much more readily available today, so we will not be doing that with our bigos, but feel free to take up the idea.
In this recipe we will be sticking primarily with pork products, but you could easily substitute them with beef. The recipe calls for a few different types of pork, which I could not easily get my hands on, so I simplified the dish by using cut-up pork chops and beef kielbasa, a type of Polish sausage. I started by chopping up a fresh head of green cabbage, some small mushrooms, one onion, one kielbasa, and my three pork chops. Then I heated up my covered pot along with some vegetable oil on medium-high heat until the oil was smoking. Once the oil began to give off smoke, I seared my pork until it was a light brown color on all sides and removed it from the pot. Next I sauted the cabbage and onion until they were soft and brown and the water they
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released had evaporated. Then I removed them from the pot and did the same with the mushrooms. Much to my culinary amusement, the mushrooms made an interesting squeaking song as I stirred them around. Once the mushrooms were done, I put everything back in the pot, mixed it well, and added some red wine, my favorite part. I used a combination Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon red wine from Monte Antico, but you can use any good quality red drinking wine. Only use enough to cover half of the ingredients though. This is a stew after all, not a soup. Then I covered the pot and let it simmer for over two hours, which made all of the meat very tender. The recipe was actually very easy. There
was only a little over half an hour of prep work. The following recipe is from Hank Shaw, writer for SimplyRecipes.com and his blog, Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, as well as author of Hunt, Gather, Cook: Finding the Forgotten Feast. 1. Pour hot tap water over the dried mushrooms and submerge them for 20-40 minutes, or until soft. Grind or crush the juniper berries and black peppercorns roughly; you dont want a powder. Cut the pork shoulder into large chunks, about 2 inches. Cut the sausages into similarsized chunks. Drain the sauerkraut and set aside.
while bigos is not the Most visually appealing dish, what it lacks in looks, it Makes up for in taste.
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Ingredients:
1 ounce dried porcini or other wild mushrooms 2 Tbsp bacon fat or vegetable oil 2 pounds pork shoulder 1 large onion, chopped 1 head cabbage (regular, not savoy or red), chopped 1 1/2 pounds mixed fresh mushrooms 1-2 pounds kielbasa or other smoked sausage 1 smoked ham hock 1 pound fresh Polish sausage (optional) One 25-ounce jar of fresh sauerkraut (we recommend Bubbies, which you may be able to find in the refrigerated section of your local supermarket) 1 bottle of pilsner or lager beer 1 Tbsp juniper berries (optional) 1 Tbsp black peppercorns 1 Tbsp caraway seeds 2 Tbsp dried marjoram Salt 20 prunes, sliced in half (optional) 2 Tbsp tomato paste (optional) 1 15-ounce can tomato sauce (optional) 1-2 Tbsp mustard or horseradish (optional)
Clean off any dirt from the mushrooms and cut them into large pieces; leave small ones whole. 2. Heat the bacon fat or vegetable oil in a large lidded pot for a minute or two. Working in batches if necessary, brown the pork shoulder over medium-high heat. Do not crowd the pan. Set the browned meat aside. 3. Put the onion and fresh cabbage into the pot and saut for a few minutes, stirring often, until the cabbage is soft. Sprinkle a little salt over them. The vegetables will give off plenty of water, and when they do, use a wooden spoon to scrape any browned bits off the bottom of the pot. If you are making the tomato-based version, add the tomato paste here. Once the pot is clean and the cabbage and onions soft, remove from the pot and set aside with the pork shoulder. 4. Add the mushrooms and cook them without any additional oil, stirring often, until they release their water. Once they do, sprinkle a little salt on the mushrooms. When the water is nearly all gone, add back the pork shoulder, the cabbageand-onion mixture, and then everything else except the prunes. Add the beer, if using, or the tomato sauce if youre making the tomatobased version. Stir well to combine. 5. You should not have enough liquid to submerge everything. Thats good: Bigos is a dry stew, and besides, the ingredients will give off more liquid as they cook. Bring everything to a simmer, cover the pot and cook gently for at least 2 hours. 6. Bigos is better the longer it cooks, but you can eat it once the ham hock falls apart. Check at 2 hours, and then every 30 minutes after that. When the hock is tender, fish it out and pull off the meat and fat from the bones Discard the bones and the fat, then chop the meat roughly and return to the pot. Add the prunes and cook until they are tender, at least 30 more minutes. Bigos is best served simply, with rye bread and a beer. If you want a little kick, add the mustard or horseradish right before you eat it. Bigos improves with age, too, which is why this recipe makes so much: Your leftovers will be even better than the stew was on the first day. Yield:Serves 10 to 12.
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WeilynnChang
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LESS
You just rolled out of bed and it is 9:30 AM and you are running late for your 9:00 AM meeting. You have thirteen tasks you need to finish before the end of the day. From running around on the job trying to complete each task, to overanalyzing every little detail about your upcoming class project due in a couple days, you are stressed out. Even though stress is a common ailment that plagues all types of people, there are certainly various ways to deal with all of that anxiety. In fact, many different cultures have their own ways of relieving stress and creating a more positive well-being. A well-recognized form of stress-relief widely implemented in Western culture is massagesand, theres more to massage than you might think. The Touch Research Institute, which is dedicated to studying the effects of touch therapy, has conducted numerous studies identifying the bio-chemical changes that occur with massages.For example, a series of massage sessions can actually improve your immune system (something that is weakened with increased stress levels). At Karen Hilliard Associates in Brookline, Massachusetts, they strive to apply the necessary Massage and Soft Tissue Techniques to properly implement Muscular Therapy. According to KHA, Muscular Therapy is an effective way to address chronic aches and pains, change restrictive postural and soft tissue patterns, and help reduce your overall levels of stress and tension. Techniques range from moderate pressure to deep tissue, trigger point therapy, soft tissue release work, passive stretching and general relaxation massage; sessions typically range from 45 to 90 minutes.
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In addition to massages, acupuncture is another method of stress relief that has been most commonly associated with the Asian culture. Acupuncture can relieve the physical symptoms of stress that tend to accumulate in your body, such as the tension and pain in your shoulders and back. Known by the Ancient Chinese as a healing art, acupuncture leaves the body feeling calm and relaxed. This is the case in part because it improves the circulation of the blood throughout your entire body; acupuncturists believe that energy flows through the body system through channels called meridians. Stress from our daily lives causes an imbalance in our bodys energy. Heres where acupuncture comes into playa session of acupuncture involves inserting fine needles at very precise pressure points throughout the body, which stimulates the bodys natural healing processes in its energy system. By stimulating the proper acupressure points, the energy can flow more freely, thereby alleviating stress induced mental and physical symptoms. After receiving acupuncture treatments on a weekly basis, something in my brain changed, Nicole Brown a licensed acupuncturist and Chinese herbalist from Inner Sage (Boston Acupuncture and Wellness) said. After each session, I had an all
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encompassing feeling of bliss and well-being and I felt like I was better able to cope with future stressful situations and deal with anything at all. Brown went into acupuncture because she has found that acupuncture has not only helped her deal with her personal anxiety
The Art of Living has had a tremendous impact on my spiritual and emotional life.
and stress-related disorder, but it has also played a role in facilitating mind/body connections. She writes on her blog: My mind and body, having been conditioned already through acupuncture sessions to relax, automatically went to that place of well-being when I closed my eyes to meditate.Meditation became infinitely more effective and easier to do since starting my acupuncture treatments and the symptoms that I had been experiencing due to anxiety only rarely bother me anymore. Although meditation may be a difficult task to work toward, it reaps great benefits. Another method of de-stressing that is often associated with the Hindu culture is yoga and meditation. The Art of Living foundation, otherwise known as the International Association of Human Values, was co-founded by Sri Sri Ravi Shankar and the Dalai Lama to help individuals get rid of stress and experience inner peace. The Art of Living offers stress-elimination programs, which include breathing techniques, meditation and yoga. While the main headquarters are located in
Bangalore, India, since its formation in 1989, local centers have been established across the world, including Boston. For instance, there are courses you can sign up for in Amherst, Chelmsford, Cape Cod, and even at Boston College. These programs have helped millions around the world to overcome stress, and even issues as extreme as depression and violent tendencies. One routine that you can learn from The Art of Living is known as the Sudarshan Kryia, which is a 20minute session that combines meditation, breathing exercises, and yoga techniques. The Art of Living has had a tremendous impact on my spiritual and emotional life, said Girish Swaminath, a sophomore at Fordham University. Practicing the Sudarshan Kryia as frequently as possible has improved my focus, selfesteem, confidence, and ability to eloquently communicate. According to Swaminath, he has noticed that many people tend to steer away from programs like this because of skepticism or cost. However, those who have been a part of it believe that the benefits are worth any of the costs. Participating in these routine yoga and meditation techniques has in fact helped Swaminath a lot with his stress management. I mostly use what Ive learned from taking these classes during periods of time when I am extremely stressed out during college as a pre-med major juggling three minors, he explained. So whether you are stressed out about an upcoming project you are in charge of managing, organizing an event where 150 people depend on its success, or even just a paper you need to write for your psychology class, there are definitely more ways than one to stress less and work toward achieving a greater sense of overall well-being in your day-to-day lives.
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Dropkick Murphys The Dropkick Murphys are all Boston: Irish, rough, and Red Sox fans. A Celtic and punk rock band out of Quincy, Dropkick, as some fans affectionately refer to them, has been together since 1996. Aside from headlining Fenway Park in the summer of 2011, Dropkick plays week-long annual sets of shows for St. Patricks Day in Boston. Shows are characterized as loud, sweaty and crowded, depending on where youre standing, that is. My personal experience with the band fit that mold. Years ago a venue near my hometown, the Stone Pony, was hosting Dropkick. I arrived in shorts, flip-flops and a T-shirt. My friends and I waited for the bagpipeinfused rock to start and stood near the front of the stage, orderly. As soon as the first drum beat was heard, I regretted my choice in footwear. Immediately, the crowd began swirling in a circle, bouncing off of one another as if wed all suddenly turned into bumper cars; it was my first moshpit experience, and I was slipping every which way. Scrambling to the back, my group found a spot away from the ruckus. Though the Dropkick Murphys are not my favorite, I will forever appreciate their excessively loud and always rambunctious nature.
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By Liz Peters
Aerosmith The Bad Boys from Boston since 1970. Trademark Sound: Rock and Roll, with a blues base Where Theyve Rocked: Aerosmith will kick-off their twentysixth tour, Global Warming, this summer, and has traveled to such countries as Argentina, Australia, Canada, Spain, Italy, France, Germany, Finland, England and Japan on past tours. Known for: Drug abuse on and off stage. Though lead singer Steven Tyler may look like a 45-year-old leather satchel with arms and legs, and at times it can be argued that he sounds as if he may be dying while he performs at sports events, he has a set of pipes like no other; you dont get to be the best-selling American rock band of all time, having sold over 100 million albums worldwide, with mediocre vocals.
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The Mighty Mighty Bosstones Style: Ska-core (punk music with a Jamaican, rock steady flair) Birth: 1983; four-year breakup in the early 2000s Trademark look: Plaid clothing Pop-culture appearances: In the movie Clueless, a favorite to many and classic to some featuring Alicia Silverstone and the late Brittany Murphy, The Bosstones are the band that plays at a fraternity party Cher (Silverstone) and her date for the evening attend. Most everyone in the scene is on the dance floor. Strumming all over the world: England, Germany, Belgium, several of Bostons dive bars, and small towns in Massachusetts The band produces songs with catchy beats and simple lyrics; easily well liked. And the Dropkick Murphys must agree- The Bosstones opened for Dropkick over the summer of 2011 at Fenway.
New Kids on the Block New Kids on the Block: Johnny, Joey, Jordan, Danny, and Donnie Relationship status: 28-year span, off for 13 Defining sound: At the time of their inception in the 1980s, the cheesy lyrics (You got the right stuff, baby/Youre the reason why I sing this song) and keyboard-infused sound seemed to do the trick, though the bubblegum pop sound didnt catch on for long. Stuck in your head: The obnoxiously popular yet all the more catchy song by LFO, Summer Girls, references NKOTB in the well-crafted line, New Kids on the Block had a bunch of hits/Chinese food makes me sick. Looks as though each group had similar lyric-constructing techniques. Summer hits: NKOTB toured with the even more popular Backstreet Boys in the summer of 2011, making a stop at Fenway Park. As a hostess at a local bar, you felt the rhythm and sensed the crowd. Throngs of middleaged women with their children crowded into the restaurant, ordering wine after wine, singing along to Bonnie Tyler or whoever may have been streaming through the sound system; a fun bunch for a fun band. Outta the Bean: Canada, Australia
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Pixies Together: 13 years, on and off Alternative tunes: a mix of indie and surf rock. Found Success: In London and the United Kingdom. Heard the hit before: The Pixies beats are sprinkled throughout popular movie soundtracks and scenes, two notable ones being Fight Club and 500 Days of Summer for their tracks Where is my Mind? and Here Comes Your Man. Mind-blowing thoughts: Many of the lyrics revolve around such issues and ideas as surrealism, biblical verse and extraterrestrials. The Pixies play with a distinct rhythm: the drums, guitar, base and vocals harmonize, and no sound overpowers the other. This balance of elements allows for relaxing yet upbeat songs that please the eardrums. Role Models: The Pixies have inspired such bands as Nirvana, The Strokes and singer, David Bowie.
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FEATURES
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Liz Peters
The Lobster Habit

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A whirl of sand kicks up behind a spider-like creature as it scuttles along the ocean floor. The sand settles on the bottom of the Northern Atlantic as the lobster comes upon some herring, commonly used to bait fish and other sea creatures. Not that the eight-legged, two-clawed crustacean knows this. As he snacks, the lobsters surroundings become more visible. The lobster doesnt remember moving; he likes the dark. The net the lobster finds himself in drags through the sea, ascending to the surface. Or perhaps hes in a lobster trap (or pot, as they are referred to in the industry). It really all depends on where along the coastline of New England he was snatched. The New England lobster fishing industry had its start around 1850 with the invention of the lobster trap. According to the Gulf of Maine Research Institute, people
previously snatched lobsters that had washed up onshore or in tidal pools without equipment. Today, different regions in New England fish under different regulations for baiting this cannibalistic critter. Julie Wormser, executive director of the Boston Harbor Association, explained the
outline of regulation in different sectors, and the lobster harvesting techniques for each area. In Maine, the region where lobster fishing is most prevalent, traps and pots are used to bait lobster. Wormser noted the main difference between traps and pots is the form of entry. In traps, the lobster enters through a tunnel, finding the bait once inside. Pots are constructed into two cavities, the first touting the food to lure the lobster in, and the second keeping him there. In Massachusetts and Southern parts of New England fishermen troll, or drag, a net across the ocean floor; this can damage vegetation and other wildlife. A third sector of the lobster industry lies in offshore fishing, the most traditional
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form, in which stationary nets are used and little regulation occurs. Though regulation is region-specific, the umbrella regulations set the tone for it all. Lobstermen may fish under different conditions with different equipment in regions throughout New England, but there is a standard skeleton to regulating the industry. Bob Ross is a Supervisory Analyst for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration in Gloucester, MA, and deals with fishing regulations, environmental issues, and benefits from an extensive knowledge in the sciences; he has been with NOAA for 39 years and working with lobsters for 15 of them. As he spoke about his field, Ross paused only to breathe. To begin, each regulatory action NOAA implements in New England is chronicled in a Draft Environmental Impact Statement (DEIS), in which new measures are proposed for the Outer Cape, the area off Rhode Island and 40 miles offshore from Canada. The DEIS evaluates the impact certain actions could have on different realms: the target fisheries, marine mammals, and habitat. It all boils down to an environmental assessment- NOAA has to determine whether or not a specific regulation it wants to append or add to lobstering will have a significant impact on the ecological surroundings. Post- analysis of a proposed rule, we let the public know what were going to do and
let them comment, said Ross in a phone interview. Sometimes, there is an oh-we didnt-eventhink-about-this instance, which allows us to tweak our final rule so that it better responds to the intent of the rule itself, as well as the concerns and suggestions. This makes regulation creation a multiphase process, due to the possibility for changes in direction and unanticipated feedback based on unexpected effects. Many issues with regulations stem from trap gear, Ross explained. If there are ground (sea floor) and vertical (from buoys) lines between pots that could possibly entangle an endangered marine mammal, a new approach must be found. Are we increasing or decreasing the fishing effort? And if we are increasing efforts, which is not often, is it an area dense with marine mammals? Ross said of the regulation-questioning process. We are pro-habitat, and pro-environment; we usually try to reduce efforts because technology can allow the same number of fishermen to increase their landings, or what they catch, without a lot of gear. Pot and trap use is the best way to remain pro-ecology; they are transient, temporary, safe around vegetation, and leave a small two by three-foot footprint. Ninety-eight percent of lobsters are caught from their use, and though lobstermen are able to land an unlimited amount of lobsters per day, this is based on
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gear-type. Though 80 million pounds of lobster are fished per year in America, a majority right out of Maine, according writer to David Foster Wallace in Consider the Lobster, their population is not to be worried about. George Lapointe, the former commissioner of Marine Resources in Maine, dealt with the regulation of marine species, including lobsters, for 12 years. Lapointe noted that in 2011, the lobster catch in Maine alone was 103 million pounds, where it is usually between 45 and 50 millions pounds. Even still, Lapointe stressed that the lobsters are not overfished. Regardless of the fact that an unlimited amount of trap and pot lobsters can be taken, other requirements must be met, according to Ross- sporting no notches (a hole created if eggs are noticed under the tail) and size control, as well as catch and release methods for the durable creatures, decrease mortality. Drag nets and stationary eel nets are all maintained with limits. Maine has set up several conservation laws in line with those noted above, and Lapointe explained that it is not uncommon for lobstermen to re-notch lobsters to conserve them. Due to the nature of the hunt and action of the animal, there is a vast difference in the regulation of the lobster fishing and traditional fishing industries. Ross explained that lobstermen have different traveling patterns than fishermen because they do not need to move with the fish. Gear is set in specific areas and several lobster fishing communities are distinct entities; small areas of unique activity. Its a very mom- and-pop operation, said Ross. Local
industries, such as the New England Lobster Association, focus measures so that there is a greater effectiveness for particular styles of fishing. There is very little regulation from outside entities What we call it is bottoms up, said Ross and the industry has significant influence on how it is regulated because they choose the measures. There are seven lobster conservation management areas where the different regulations are created. A lobster management board will determine the stocks of the animal, while scientists will make recommendations for efforts. Ross explained that the lobster management boards collaborate with industry groups, such as NOAA, to see how efforts can be reduced in specific areas. Most lobster conservation management teams will call for an increase in the minimum size a lobster can be taken from the water, cut traps, prohibit big catch, and the like. Ross himself will look at the measures that states are required to input and will create rules to complement the measures. For example, states do not have a Marine Mammal Protection Act while NOAA does, and thus they can push for measures that complement the Act. In Maine, there are seven fishing zones that are regulated, with 1,000 fishermen in each zone, Lapointe explained. There is a trap maximum of 800. Fishing councils vote on how many traps can be on a line, what time of day fishing can occur, and whether or not fishing in a specific fishery should be limited. I think the greatest benefit is that there is a formal communication mechanism between the managers and commissioner.
The amount of information flow to and from fishermen, and really having a structured way to discuss resource and economic issues was huge, Lapointe said as he looked back on his career. Its a very claws-off gig; only 20 percent of regulation is federal. Due to the availability of lobsters and efforts made by their hunters, a harmonious relationship is maintained between the local industries and federal government. Fishing finned-fish presents a greater point of contention, as sustainability and conservation of the creature, which boils down to population, is limited compared to their seafloor neighbors. Lapointe alluded to the mystery behind the level lobster population- We dont know...its something about crustacean biology that we dont understand; something else is going on that helped us out greatly, he said as to how lobsters are not overfished. Certain variables aid in their persistent existence extra food, as millions of pounds of bait are dumped for them each year, lack of predation, and conservation but a missing link remains. As the trap lands on the deck of the boat, the lobster, which was previously kicking up sand on the sea floor, will now be processed for plate presentation or canned consumption. Lapointe estimated that about half to one-third of lobsters are sent to Canada to be processed, but there is no single method- fishermen might belong to food cooperatives, which are collectives that help fishermen with bait and fuel or possibly acquiring lobsters and selling them at a higher cost. Some lobstermen will sell their catch to a manager, who will then sell to a larger dealer. This dealer
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will connect with distributors, such as food stores, and sell the product to them, where the lobster is passed onto the public. It is a human food chain. In recent years, the style of lobster consumption has shifted. Eating habits have changed, Lapointe pointed out. The image of U.S. lobsters being tossed into steam pots is a 30-year-old vision; fewer people pot the lobster these days. People want more processed foods and are less likely to throw on a bib and get messy, Lapointe said, adding, Throw me a lobster, a couple of beers, and Im happy. Since a majority of lobsters are no longer consumed in the traditional way, Maine is interested in better marketing lobsters. Supply and demand says if youre producing more, the price cant stay the same; getting [lobsters] into market for sale takes more creativity than in the past, Lapointe explained. Lobster catch has increased, so for the price to remain competitive, there has to be a bigger push for them. The industry is not in danger though. With the exception of the past few years, there has been a growth in the economic machine of our country and the average citizen has more money to spend. There is a proliferation of information about the fanciness of lobsters- When you see people having a lobster at a clam bake or similar setting, it looks pretty cool, said Lapointe; a win for marketing; the lobster sells itself. With an increased availability of lobster, the price has gone down. In terms of supply and demand, it may be shifting statuses from a limited, luxury product to a more available, medium-high end one. Lapointe isnt too quick to personally take to this theory- I think its still a luxury. And the lobster, now red, steams on a plate.
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ann er r m .J.H ByA
As I walked up through the Hynes Convention Center subway stop toward the Berklee Performance Center, a sense of wonder and curiosity shrouded my thoughts. Id bought a ticket to see Los Hermanos Arango, a Cuban band of some sortI knew nothing beyond that. Earlier in the day I weighed whether or not I should try to find some of their songs on the internet to get a taste of the evening I was about to have but I decided against it, instead choosing to form my first impression with the first notes of the musicians. It was a choice I wouldnt soon regret. I found an unoccupied seat in the third row, settled in and waited for the band to take the stage. Perusing the program, I learned that Los Hermanos Arango hailed from Guanabacoa, where Yoruba, Abakua and other African traditions are preserved in their most authentic form in the Americas. Furthermore, The Arangos are the only Cuban band to use completely unaltered Afrocuban ritual voice/hand drumming as the basis for a modern repertoire that integrates electric bass, keyboards, brass/winds (and no drumset). Still unsure of exactly what kind of music I was in for, I remained skeptical but optimistic. After a few minutes, Los Hermanos were introduced and made their way to the instruments they would be using for the opening number. Clad in what looked like
all-white kimonos and caps, the Hermanos picked up their drums and delved into their first song of the night Towole, their selfproclaimed theme song. While maintaining a thick and thunderous rhythm on their native Cuban hand drums, Los Hermanos broke into a rich blend of vocal harmonization that rang out over the percussion. On a side note, the name Los
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Los Her m
anos Ara n
Musica C ubana Pic ante

Arango, spoke in only Spanish. While some of the Englishspeaking audience members may have been off put by this, my shoddy high school Spanish education and I enjoyed the realism. This minute little detail made the groups show feel more authentic, rather than like a dumbed-down, manufactured cultural show tailor-made for dumb audiences. The Spanish speakers in the crowd laughed and ballyhooed along with Felicianos inter-song banter, and while I was only able to keep up with a few of the words, I enjoyed the natural bilingual charisma he shared with me and the rest of the audience members. Feliciano and the rest of the group played with such a vigorous passion for the music that they struggled to keep their bodies from dancing right off the stage. Every one of their arms, legs and hips had a certain kind of electricity that pulsed with the rhythm. My own foot began tapping along after the
go heats up the B erklee Pe rfor manc e Center
Hermanos Arango is a bit of a misnomer, because the group is composed of six males (three of whom are actual Arango brothers), but also one female, Cristina Arango. Her pleasant, yet forceful voice helped carry the melodies on the top end, elevating the rest of the mens harmonies that were sometimes drowned out in the mix of the supporting instrumentation. Los Hermanos continued playing songs that sounded like what you might think a native Cuban band sounds like: lots of tribal-esque hand drumming and chant-like melodies, very rhythmically driven, and altogether not very relatable unless you were, say, Cuban. In between songs, the leader and bassist of the group, Feliciano
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third song, and didnt stop for the rest of the performance. In a few of their songs, one of the band members would sneak offstage only to return again in a different outfit that complemented the mood of the song. The first costume change drew big laughs when one of the drummers emerged from stage right in a humorously feminine sleeveless green blouse, complete with grass skirt. After that, Cristina showed off a long elegant yellow dress, and danced along interpreting the Cuban lyrics with her arms and hands. Then finally, another member came back onstage in a highly unusual costume made of blue cloth and punctuated by bits of burlap around the elbows, wrists and ankles. His face was covered by the costume, with two very eerie eyes painted on, and a red striped boater hat slung around his neck.
These striking colors and costumes helped to salvage an otherwise visually underwhelming evening. Dont be mistaken, the musicians were immense fun to watch, but the bland lighting and the performers white suits fostered a visual experience that did not come close to matching the auditory excitement of the music. The show was broken up into two parts, the first of which was only Los Hermanos Arango and their very traditional sounding Cuban songs. However, the second half of the show incorporated students, faculty and alumni of Berklee, all of whom were overloaded with talent. If the first half of Los Hermanos performance was more of a cultural history lesson, the second half was an explosion of groove, energy and Earth Wind & Fire-like dance powerhouses. In addition to the 7 members of Los Hermanos Arango, a full horn section,
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Every one of their arms, legs and hips had a certain kind of electricity that pulsed with the rhythm. My own foot began tapping along after the third song, and didnt stop for the rest of the performance.
drummer and pianist were added, creating a tremendously saturated sound that grooved to the core. Feliciano Arango arranged the horn parts, which complemented the rest of Los Hermanos songs incredibly well, and took the music to a truly epic new stratosphere of funk. I had a single thought in my mind while listening to the awesome music of the second half of the show: This is without a doubt the best live music being played anywhere in the entire City of Boston. Feliciano broke loose and showed off some of the incredible bass chops he had been holding back, which was a friendly reminder that he was still the best player on stage, even while surrounded by a gaggle of phenomenal Berklee musicians. Walking into the Berklee Performance Center, I was nervous
and unsure. Walking out of the Berklee Performance Center, I was inspired and electrified. If the auditoriums air conditioners hadnt been set to arctic, I would have felt like I had just walked out of one of Havanas hottest music clubs. I was taken from the bitter cold of New Englands winter, and brought to a hot and sweaty dance hall, where the grooves were plentiful and the dancing vigorous. Los Hermanos Arango brought the crowd to its feet by the end of the night, and will no doubt continue to do so as they travel throughout the U.S. Audiences everywhere will fall under the spell of the Cuban rhythms and will leave wanting more, just as I did. Los Hermanos Arango brought it. I hope someday they bring it to you.
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n s o t r s e Bo t s b o M
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A Bloo dy Hist ory Of Crime in Boston

By Sam Galanis
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e day in came of age th r Boston Mafia The backwate 1931 when Iris h gang leader Frankie Wallac e staggered into a dingy the third -floor se re of office as cr in the ing et North ar le b End. H yl ull e die ite et w d ra ou lly nd sh to t rie he ke he art db wh lo ile od a ym ur de r.
that theres an Italian Mafia as well as an Irish gang that would rise and fall, said Richard Lehr, author of two books on organized crime and Boston University journalism professor. Theres always an Irish gang presence given the influx of Irish in the late 1800s and into the 1900s. Whereas when a lot of people think of organized crime in the 1900s they think of, you know, the Mafia. Boston always had a strong Irish gang component. Boston has long been home to a huge Irish-American population, especially in its neighborhoods of South Boston (or Southie), Charlestown, and Dorchester. The Italian population was centered mostly in the North End. The Underboss: The Rise and Fall of a Mafia Family by Lehr and Gerard ONeill tells the story of the Mafia and Irish Mob in Boston. Both gangs have their roots in bootlegging alcohol during Prohibition. By the Depression, they were gambling and
The cobblestone alleyways and the basements of the neat brownstones hold years of secrets, and blood. Bones lie on the bottom of the harbor and on the shores of Tenean Beach. Boston does not usually come to mind when people think of crime, but with almost 400 years of settlement under its belt, it has built up a rather rich history of darkness. Settled by the Puritans in 1630 as New Towne, Boston incorporated many strict laws and beliefs from its past. Around the late 1800s and early 1900s, many young girls turned up dead, their bodies improperly disposed of, from botched abortions, which were illegal in Massachusetts. The first known Ponzi scheme, carried out by Charles Ponzi himself, occurred in Boston. During Prohibition, Bostons infamous organized crime era was born, and mobsters ran the streets of Boston for over half a century. When it comes to crime in Boston, the Mafia and the Irish Mob take much of the spotlight. Both have a very longstanding presence in the history of Bostons crime. I think Boston is a little bit unique from some of the other major cities in the country in the sense that there always seemed to be kind of a dual track in the sense
loansharking as well. As relations between the two mobs got heated, so did the murder rate. The Rise and Fall of Bostons Italian Mafia Due to the fact that Bostons Irish population was so dominant, for a long time the Mafia didnt seem to have a leg to stand on. In Underboss, Lehr and ONeill describe the day when the Italians broke through. The passage reads, After an arduous birth and stunted childhood, the backwater Boston Mafia came of age the day in 1931 when Irish gang leader Frankie Wallace staggered into a dingy third-floor office in the North End. He died there of a single bullet wound to the heart while a secretary literally shrieked bloody murder. The meeting between the two gangs was supposed to be a plan
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The Power Struggle Between
the Irish Mobs and the Mafia

on how to divide the liquor that came into New Englands ports. Wallace demanded an even split; he didnt know that the Mafia had other plans. The structure of mobs and crime in Boston had been dictated by the ships of immigrants that came into Boston. The Irish came first in huge waves and quickly took over crime, as well as politics, giving them a legitimately strong presence in the city. Jewish mobs took hold of some speakeasies in the 1920s. But until the murder of Wallace, leader of the Gustin Gang, the Italians were still small in population and confined to what was then one of the poorest neighborhoods in Boston. The killing gave them more power and legitimacy, but not enough to shoot them to the top of the organized crime heap. The Gustin Ambush was really only enough to dissolve their reputation as the puny pushcart peddlers of organized crime, a bushleague embarrassment compared to Al Capones Chicago and Lucky Lucianos New York, according to The Underboss. That day, the Mafia won because they didnt lose; they had the street cred, but the power was still divided. The only reason they actually got away with the ambush was because lone survivor Timothy Coffey refused to testify against them in order to avoid the jail time he was certain to face for being associated with the Gustin Gang. Boston just didnt seem like the right place for the Mafia. When Italians first arrived there in the late 1800s, the Irish already outnumbered them 60 to one and had control over politics. By the thirties, the ratio was better at two to one. But in such a small city, that still only meant a total Italian population of around 90,000. Life in the North End during that time was rough. In fact, the neighborhood was originally mostly Irish, but they left a difficult life there. The Italians struggled as well. The area was full of disease and crime. Three out of every ten children died before the age of one, making the North End responsible for Boston having the countrys highest infant death rate. It was not unlike a small Italian town where older women dressed in all black, unmarried women were kept under close surveillance, and Italian was spoken in the streets. Essentially, it was completely closed off from the rest of the city, even the bustling center of Faneuil Hall just a short five blocks away. However unlikely it seemed, New Englands La Cosa Nostra, the Italian Mafia, had its most powerful roots in tiny Providence, R.I. with the godfather Raymond Patriarca. Unlike Boston, Providence was mostly Italian, so Patriarca rose to power by making connections with Italian politicians and police, which wasnt as difficult in a small city. But the famous Boston underboss for which Lehr and ONeills book was named was Gennaro Jerry Angiulo. Born to immigrant parents, Angiulo grew up with his five brothers in the North End, where he made his living as a delivery truck driver. He joined the Navy, returning in 1947. Not long after that, he went to Providence with an envelope full of money as tribute to Patriarca, and was rewarded with control over the Italian gambling ring in Boston. Angiulo was good at his job. As ONeill and Lehr put it, Angiulo was cunning and insatiable, a master of setting himself as the arbiter of disputes he caused. He would send his cronies after independents, or bookies who were loosely associated with the Mafia. When they came begging for mercy, hed quietly comply saying that there must have been a mistake, but that everyone would be better off if the independent gave him a bigger cut of their money. He had the guts that previous underbosses and major Mafia affiliates had lacked in the past. It is not clear exactly when Angiulo became an official member of La Cosa Nostra, but it appears that it was sometime in the 1960s, when Angiulo was in his forties.
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Before that, he was not necessarily a favorite of Patriarca. But according to The Underboss, Angiulo went to Providence with $50,000 cash stuffed in an envelope to give to Patriarca and told Patriarca hed give him $100,000 a year to run Bostons underworld. They made a deal and a system. Mafia enforcers were assigned to bookies. The enforcers got half of what the bookies collected, Angiulo got half of what the enforcers collected, and Patriarca got half of what Angiulo collected. Bostons main Mafia office was at 98 Prince St. in the North End, and they also had an office in Jays, a lounge they bought on 51 Margin St. in Bostons former red-light district, the Combat Zone. Angiulo always had the support and sometimes the help of his brothers Antonio, Michele, Nicolo, Donato, and Francesco. But Angiulo wasnt very good at making friends or being loyal to them, which played a big
the olD mAFiA heADquArters on 98 Prince st. in bostons north enD
part in his downfall. The police and the FBI were on their case. In the early 1960s, then-Attorney General Robert F. Kennedy was cracking down on organized crime and enlisted the help of FBI Director J. Edgar Hoover. They illegally bugged the 98 Prince St. office from 1962 to 1965, and although they couldnt use anything as evidence, they had a lead. Even with a major in the state police and a high-ranking Boston police officer on their side, the Angiulos were in trouble. After a 20-year run with no successful police involvement, the FBI was finally approved to bug the 98 Prince St. and 51 Margin St. offices in January of 1981. After a few failed break-in attempts, they were able to wire both offices. They could hear Angiulo himself giving orders for beatings, murders, and gambling rings. With that and a little help from Irish mobsters James J. Whitey Bulger and Stephen Flemmi (who owed Angiulo money), they had all the evidence they needed. On September 19, 1983, Jerry Angiulo was put under arrest for racketeering. As he walked out the door he yelled, Ill be back before my pork chops get cold.
Five oF the six Angiulo brothers. From leFt, Antonio, michele, nicolo, gennAro, DonAto.
But that never happened. He loudly fought for his freedom from the day he was arrested until September 10, 2007, the day he was paroled. On August 29, 2009, Gennaro Angiulo died of renal failure at Massachusetts General Hospital at the age of 90. He outlived most of his former gang members. In his Boston Globe Obituary, retired State Police Colonel Thomas J. Foley said, He is probably the last very significant Mafia boss in Bostons history. In these times you dont have anybody who exerts the control, the force, or even maintains the discipline like he had with his organization during his day. The Irish Mob is King Where Bostons Mafia was successful, its Irish Mob was storied. The Irish had a good head start on the Italians. When the Mafia had yet to establish a strong base, the Irish mob already had multiple gangs controlling Bostons underground, with men like Frankie Wallace and his Gustin Gang. Still, most of their power came after the fall of the Mafia. They never had the standing, the stature, the scope of power that the Angiulos did until the one gang that emerged in the seventies called the Winter Hill Gang, Lehr said. James Bulger, who growing up was known to friends and family as Jimmy, was born on September 3, 1929 in Bostons Dorchester
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neighborhood. However, he grew up in the Old Harbor housing projects of South Boston, or Southie as its known, a predominantly Irish neighborhood. Bulger was the oldest of six children and was somewhat of a criminal right from the start. He was arrested for the first time at the age of 14 for stealing. From there, he was arrested for larceny, forgery, assault and battery, and armed robbery, eventually serving five years in a juvenile reformatory. As ONeill and Lehr put it in their book Black Mass: The True Story of an Unholy Alliance Between the FBI and the Irish Mob, Whitey, the unruly firstborn, was frequently in court and never in high school. There were street fights and wild car chases, all of which had a kind ofHollywood flair. During the 1940s hed driven a car onto the street-car tracks and raced through the old Broadway station as shocked passengers stared from the crowded platform. With a scally cap on his head and a blonde seated next to
the south boston housing Projects where whitey bulger AnD john connoly grew uP.
him, he waved and honked to the crowd. Then he was gone. That was quintessential young Whitey, who received that nickname from cops for his platinum blonde hair and striking blue eyes, even though he preferred to be called Jimmy. He was goodlooking and charming, but he seemed to follow trouble wherever it went. Even when he joined the Air Force after his release from the reformatory, he served in military jail for assault and was arrested for going AWOL. Somehow, he was honorably discharged in 1952. Once back in Southie, Bulger dove right back into crime. He operated a string of bank robberies from Rhode Island to Indiana, and was sentenced to 25 years in prison in 1956, including time in Alcatraz. Still, he would only serve nine years. Once he returned to Boston again in 1965, he wasnt arrested again, not even for a traffic infraction, according to Black Mass. Instead, he climbed his way through the ranks of Bostons underground. At barely five-feet-eight and 165 pounds, he wasnt a large man, but his presence was looming. He joined forces with mob boss Donald Killeen after his release, but Bulger recognized his problems and poor leadership. Killeens gangs enemies were the Mullin Gang, and Bulger
knew that under Killeens leadership, it was only a matter of time before one of them got killed. From there it was either work with the Mafia or the Winter Hill Gang, both of which were unfavorable options for Bulger. He went with the lesser of two evils. There was no way that Killeen and the Mullin Gang could ever be on good terms, so Bulger turned to Winter Hill Gang leader Howard Howie Winter, who was friendly with the Mullin Gang, to make sure his head was never on the chopping block with them. However, his independence spelled the end for Killeen, who was murdered in an ambush outside of his sons fourth birthday party in May of 1972. As a mobster, Bulger was mysterious. He barely drank, didnt smoke, and worked out religiously. He lived with his mother in Southie until her death in 1980. His brother, Billy, his complete opposite, was the
A PhotogrAPh tAken by the Drug enForcement ADministrAtion oF bulger AnD Flemmi wAlking neAr cAstle islAnD in southie
teneAn beAch in the Dorchester neighborhooD oF boston, where bulger AnD his mob burieD boDies.
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President of the Massachusetts State Senate for 18 years, the longest tenure in state history. But despite all this, Whitey was feared. Many former associates of Bulgers said that just looking at him was enough to feel the fear. He was a folkloric symbol for children and adults in Southie alike. Bulger was cunning as a mobster. He was smart and had read up on law when he was in jail. Eventually, the frequently incarcerated Winter was incarcerated for fixing horse races in 1979, and Bulger assumed the position of leader of the Winter Hill Gang. He teamed up with Stephen The Rifleman Flemmi, and they became the deadliest duo in Boston. They were involved in loansharking, drug dealing, extortion, and money laundering. Under Bulger, the Winter Hill Gang accumulated 19 murders. It wasnt until 1994 that the Drug Enforcement Administration, the Massachusetts State Police, and the Boston Police Department started to investigate the gangs gambling operations. In 1995, Bulger and Flemmi were indicted. But somehow, Bulger got away, and was on the run until recently when he was found on June 22, 2011. He was one of Americas Most Wanted, second only to
Osama bin Laden, and there was a $2 million reward for him. So how did Bulger manage to be the most feared man in Boston, then among Americas Most Wanted, for 47 years without a any major blemishes on his record? The simple answer: help from within. ONeill and Lehrs Black Mass is mostly about Bulgers relationship with FBI agent John Connolly. Connolly had grown up in the Old Harbor housing projects in Southie with Bulger. He became Bulger and Flemmis FBI handler because of this. The FBI was trying to use the two mobsters to help bring down the Mafia, and it thought the mobsters would see Connolly as trustworthy. Little did they know, Connolly looked up to Bulger. When he met him for the first time as a boy, he described the event as being like meeting Ted Williams. Connolly helped Bulger when he helped the FBI. He tipped him off whenever they were looking into his activity. Most importantly, Connolly tipped Bulger off when he learned Bulger was to be indicted. With his wit and the help of Connolly, James J. Whitey Bulger may just be the slickest criminal in history.
Where Are They Now? What was once a bloody battle is now subdued. During the 1960s, two out of every three homicides in Boston were related to the Irish Mob or the Mafia. But today, none of the once-prominent gangs have any power. But its still out there. I dont think you have any of what I call marquee celebrity figures the way you did during Whitey, Flemmi, Howie Winter, and the Winter Hill Gang, the way you did with the Angiulos and the Mafia, said Lehr. I mean, these were in a sense household names for decades. I cant even tell you whos in charge of South Boston and the Irish gang now. I dont think many people can. Likewise with the Italian Mafia. But theyre out there. No ones had that staying power, that they rose to the top and stayed there for a while, so that they develop a reputation that gets into sort of that celebrity sensational stuff. Different guys have come and gone and its much more fragmented. The power isnt as centralized as it used to be. Now, even the ones still living are just part of the folklore and the rich, dark history of Boston.
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By Benjamin Cooper
The Long Road
to
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Asylum
Boston asylees and the lawyers who earn it for them.
igh fives and smiles make their way around a group of people leaving Courtroom 4 of Bostons Immigration Court on a Monday afternoon late in October. Primo Fontana, one of three lawyers, smiles and says to his client: Congratulations, five years is a very long time to wait. He then turns to his associate, Paul Ham, and grins, telling their client: This guy did a very good job out there! Ham and Fontana, as well as Anita Agajanian, lawyers for DLA Piper, have just finished their pro bono case granting their client political asylum. She has passed an immense hurdle on her path to securing US citizenship, but in many ways, it has just begun. Hams client is Ms. N., a 59-year-old woman who wished to withhold her identity to protect her family back home. She fled to the United States from her home outside the Ugandan capital of Kampala in 2006 after having been arrested and tortured for her political activism against President Yoweri Museveni and his 25-year-rule, he says.
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Ms. N smiles from cheek to cheek. She wears a floor-length, squarenecked turquoise Gomesi, the national dress of Ugandan women, tied with a traditional silken silver sash that rests on her hips. The ensemble fits her bathykolpian figure, and she can barely contain her jubilation, offering her hand for another round of high-fives to Fontana, Ham and Agajanian. Shes an amazing woman, Ham, 36, says, she comes off very sweetly, and shes a little punk on the inside. In 2010 nearly fifty thousand people applied for asylum in the United States, according to the Department of Homeland Security Immigration Yearbook; however, only 21,113, a little less than half, were given their security. Asylum is granted in one of two ways, Ham explains over coffee later. He takes his hands and places them separately on the table before of him. First there is a hearing in front of an asylum officer, Ham indicates with his left hand. We just go in to
their office, they turn on a tape recorder, ask questions, and expect answers. Ham says. Asylum can be granted right there, but it is often put up against evidence made available to the officer by the C.I.A. If the officer believes there isnt enough information, the case is passed on to an immigration judge; Ham raises his right hand. Our case was heard by a judge over video-conference. He says. She (the judge) was based out of Virginia. Their office, they solely do video-conferences to alleviate the load. Behind California, Massachusetts has one of the most backlogged immigration courts in the nation, he says. A Brookline resident, Ham is married, raising two children and his six-year-old English bulldog, their personality is unbeatable he says enthusiastically. His hair is black, but a gray fleck is present here and there. He comfortably wears khakis and a button down shirt on his break from DLA Piper, where hes been a junior attorney for four years. While talking about building his case with Ms. N., he notes the hours spent interviewing her, learning her life and the traumatic details of her story in Uganda. It was very tough on her, he says of the process, shes a very strong woman, and shes so committed to her story and her cause and the veracity of her statements. Ham trails off, thinking of how best to describe Ms. Ns struggle. But every once in a while she would break down. It was brutal.
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Im grateful to the U.S. government for the opportunity to live in safety, Olivia translates, and for the pro-bono assistance provided by the PAIR Project! Ms. Ns eyes light up, and she nods.
Her Story In Uganda, Ms. N was elected by her peers as a Womans Representative to the LC1 level, or Local Council, Ham said. After a trip to America for an African Growth and Opportunities Act (AGOA) Forum in 2002, villagers began reporting unfair land reform policies under Museveni. Over the following years, she reported these issues to the next level of authority, but it was this branch of government that was responsible for the illegitimate reforms, and she was labeled in opposition to Musevenis government for calling them out. This was roughly a year before Uganda was to have its election, and after reporting this to higher officials, Ms. N was visited by officers from the Internal Security Organization (ISO), the Ugandan intelligence agency. They questioned her, Ham says, and in her own selfdefense, she denied opposition to
Museveni. But she began to question his rule. She has no fear of stepping up to whats wrong, Ham says, recalling her accounts of the crossexamination. In January 2006, ISO officers kidnapped Ms. N and took her to a safehouse, in reality, an unregistered prison. Thrown into the basement with 30 to 40 other people, she was beaten to the point where she couldnt walk. The smell was unbearable, Ham says of Ms. Ns abduction. There were dead bodies on the floors and little to no light. She was released a week later with the threat of death were she to continue her activism against Museveni. It was public intimidation similar to Baathist Iraq, and nearly every other dictatorship; spreading fear through the accounts of those who survived the torture. When Ms. N returned to her home and children, she told other villagers what had happened, and how she felt about the political climate. Three to four days later, ISO officers arrested her again, bringing her to a different house where they kept and beat her for over a month. When she was released, she was given the same ultimatum: If we catch you again, we will kill you. She fled to the United States in October that year. Getting her to trust me was the biggest issue, Ham says of the process in which she had to take claim in her past. We worked on our case for two years, and we didnt start getting the full story until well over a year. Ham says. A lot of times they dont want to own up; they dont want to relive the torture theyve gone through. Theres a weird twist to the political asylum process in that, if youve been politically persecuted, your mentality is to deny any kind of
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rebellion or protest of the government. But to get political asylum you have to own up to that When you come to the United States you kind of have to say Damn right I said that! Because thats the only way youll get asylum It took about that a year and a half for Ms. N to comfortably trust Ham, and to stand by her story. Back in the courtroom, in quick, hushed Lugandan, Ms. N speaks through her friend and translator Olivia, who chose to withhold her surname for similar reasons. Im grateful to the U.S. government for the opportunity to live in safety, Olivia translates, and for the pro-bono assistance provided by the PAIR Project! Ms. Ns eyes light up, and she nods.
Finding Help The Political Asylum/Immigration Representation (PAIR) Project is a provider of pro bono legal services to asylum-seekers and immigrants in Massachusetts. Essentially, they pair lawyers like Ham with asylum seekers like Ms. N., among others. A list of their victories from the last year reads like a Whos Who of nations with questionable human rights records: Algeria, Cameroon, Colombia, The Democratic Republic of Congo, Ethiopia, Eritrea, Guinea, Nigeria, Tibet, Uganda, and Zimbabwe. At the head of the Asylum Program for PAIR is Anita Sharma. Shes amazing, shes absolutely amazing, says Ham. Perhaps it is a good sign that she was too busy with cases to comment for this piece. Hams experience in asylum cases began with Mass Legal Clearinghouse. The firm hosts legal clinics at Pine Street Inn, a homeless shelter in South Boston, to introduce residents to lawyers and
give them the opportunity to ask questions and find answers. The first and only time I was available for that, a gentleman came up to me and had an asylum issue. Ham says. That gentleman was Joackim Nganga. Only months earlier, Nganga had fled from religious persecution in Kenya. He was a member of the Charismatic Renewal Unity Church where he had preached against the influence of Islam and the practice of female genital mutilation. Kenya at the time was still politically in flux, Ham says, having worked there himself. He points to the Mungiki as an example; a quasigang, quasi-political, quasi-religious organization that has adopted an Islamic-Animist philosophy, not uncommon in the area. During elections, parties would use the Mungiki as their thug arm,
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either bullying people into voting for them or to suppress opposition. Ngangas preaching was that these branches were not even subscribing to the true values of Islam, says Ham. Needless to say, they didnt take kindly to that. Under threat of the Mungikis machete, Nganga fled and made his way to Massachusetts; attempting to build a life for himself. Ham describes hearing his story, and prepping him for his hearing with an asylum officer. I worked with him creating an application and writing an affidavit stating his story. Then we prepped him and practiced, making
How will she get money for her applications? How is she going to get money for her children to fly over here? These are the questions Ham counts on his fingers...
sure he had a clean, clear and consistent presentation of his story. Hes a very, extremely, intelligent guy, almost perfect English. Welleducated, though maybe not formally educated, but it wasnt so much of a problem. She granted him asylum based upon that interview, Ham said. It was because of Hams work with Nganga that Fontana and Agajanian asked him to work on Ms. Ns case with them through PAIR. I look at it as a type of training for law work thats hard to do for paying clients. Ham says. Its a place to wet your chops as a junior attorney. Over the Hump Life after asylum is still no easy journey, applications, jobs, rent, food; asylees have all the responsibilities of life thrust upon them as if they were graduating from college, but often have very
little education and no social network to rely upon. Nganga is very articulate, Ham says, although a little bit of a loner, but hes been handling the process by himself; which hes capable of doing, but it doesnt hurt for someone to hold his hand a little bit. Nganga lives in a more permanent residence offered by Pine Street Inn. He collects cans for recycling, and has applied for work as a security guard while working towards his green card. I think there might be a tendency, to, once theyve gone over the big hump, to let them on their own. Ham says. Although hes only worked two asylum cases, and is beginning his third with a Uganda musician, he is beginning to see where the unexpected troubles arise. I can see the reasons for that, but sometimes I wish that people were more willing to provide that help. With Ms. Ns asylum granted, the next step in her life is to get her green card. Ham clearly states the simple challenge ahead of her, Now its a matter of getting an elderly, psychologically and physically damaged woman enough aid and support to live. Theyre working on a supplemental application to bring her husband and children over, but theres a dizzying array of local obstacles ahead of her here in Boston. How will she afford rent? Will she live in a homeless shelter? How will she get money for food? How will she get money for her applications? How is she going to get money for her children to fly over here? These are the questions Ham counts on his fingers before conceding, Again, theres not much available for her. But, he sayts, I have no doubt that shell do amazing things; she truly is a force of nature.
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travessias three white wines: chardonnay, unoaked chardonnay, and vidal blanc
Its no longer a dream, Marco Montez says, in the tasting room of his winery on Purchase Street in downtown New Bedford, Massachusetts. A few years ago, I began a transformation in my life. This is not something I planned. I fell in love with wine. Marco Montez, 39-years-old, started making wine with his family in a tiny village in the Trs-osMontes region of Portugal when he was a small child. Trs-os-Montes is an older province in Portugal in the northeastern quarter of the country. Trs-os-Montes smaller villages, often called the corner of the corner of Europe, still have many little farms that produce corn, potatoes, wheat, olive oil, and chestnuts. And of course grapes for wine. I was a kid and I was happy to help out during the Vindima, Marco says, Vindima, he explains is Portuguese for grape harvest. After these early years, Marco moved to the United States and had little to do with wine, except for drinking it. He graduated from UMass Dartmouth in 1996 and has worked as a software test engineer until recently.
It started with curiosity. Marco began to wonder about winemaking, recalling the dilettantish winemaking hed seen as a six-year-old boy. He started to experiment, ook into things, and satisfy his curiosity. I wanted to understand why wine tastes the way it does, he says, walking across the glossy, tiled floors of his small tasting room. It was no longer a hobby for me. I became obsessed with it. You know, the long and stressful grape growing season, the exhilarating feel of a harvest, the energy and chaos of crushing, the smells of fermentationI wanted to do this for a living. So Marco left his well salaried corporate job to connect with a local Massachusetts winery that was looking for a little extra help. Before long, Marco felt he was ready to open his own winery, perhaps a bit navely, he adds, and four years ago he launched Travessia, his very own microbrewery. Travessia, at it simplest means A trip across a great distance of sea or land, in Portuguese, but like many inexact translations, it really means the journey of life, perhaps a hint at Marcos unusual mid-life restyling. It all seems like a fairy tale;
...from trs-os-montes to new bedford, massachusetts...

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travessia winery
his childhood winemaking in Trsos-Montes, his cut and dried job as a software engineer and now his quaint urban winery plopped down in the middle of downtown New Bedford, but hes very honest about everything that has happened to this point. There have been many days that Ive asked myself what the hell Im doing. Ive been brought to tears a few times and Ive felt physical pain from pushing myself to the limit, Marco says with a goofy smile. Its hard to believe in his tasting room with so many bottles of Travessia wine lining walls and stuffed in cubbies. Yes, I had a business plan, he admits, exposing a bit of his right-brainedness, and I knew this was no romance, but little could have prepared me for the challenges that Ive faced. Marcos understated winemaking philosophy has certainly had a hand in Travessias success. He focuses on making wine with locally grown vinifera grapes, mostly found in Europe. There are few wineries in Massachusetts who grow their own grapes, Marco says, At present, my wines are made with grapes grown by Running Brook Vineyards in Dartmouth and Westport Rivers in Westport. Theyre both in Southeastern Massachusetts. Marco has found it is far easier to make great white wines with Southeastern
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marco montez pouring wine in his tasting room.
Massachusetts grown grapes, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Vidal Blanc are some of the varietals that can consistently produce great quality, he notes. Red wines are harder, he says, because of a shorter growing season required for red grapes to achieve their desired ripeness. And for that, he stays mainly to making white wine. For this urban winery, which by the way, are two words not often next to each other, the key is authenticity. Wineries in the United States are allowed to blend 15% of grapes and wine from other regions with their local product without ever disclosing it the public, Marco says with a roll of his eyes, I personally oppose this, it can dramatically change the taste, you know? Travessias wines are made with only local grapes, nothing else is blended in, Marco says, Not a single berry, his chest
puffs up with pride. He says his approach to winemaking is minimalist though most wineries would claim the same thing but he lays outs his bottom line as winemaker (at least for the moment): use only if/when necessary: Isolated yeast, Inactivated yeast, Fining with bentonite, filtration, potassium metabisulfite, and never use: Concentrate addition, Amelioration, or enological tannins. I could go further into it, he says, I love to geek out, but I stop him there. Travessia has been featured quite a bit in the press for its novelty urban wineries do not appear on every block and for the quality of Marcos wines. Marco will readily admit that the world doesnt need any more new wine, but he stands by the fact that Travessia is unique. People can buy local wine and get to know the winemaker, he says, That doesnt happen often. I want to make wine that people can really be a part of. I think that is the only way you can succeed as a winery today. And Marco has succeeded. In the future, hed like to purchase his own plot of agricultural land in Southeastern New England to set up a vineyard to start growing exclusively Travessia grapes. So what should you drink when you visit Travessia (760 Purchase Street, New Bedford, MA 02740): the 2010 UnOaked Chardonnay is a hit with almost all white wine drinkers or if youd like to try something sweeter you can still taste some of the natural sugar from the grapes in the Vidal Blanc. Travessia is open in the winter months Thursday through Saturday from noon to 6:00 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 5:00 p.m.
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BEYOND
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ABOUt FREnCH p LAYw IS It At RIg H Ht w YA S
MIn AR Ez AS
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theatre
Its a classic story. Two eleven-yearold boys get into an argument on the playground. Its a gang-related tiff; Henry wont let Benjamin join his crew, which sends Henry home missing his two front My work is visceral and subjective, shes said, teeth by way of Im interested in the banal, unguarded moments and Benjamin and a stick. In a highly civilized hairline fractures in a character that manner, the boys let the light through. parents sit down to discuss their childrens Yasmina Reza little run-in. This is where French playwright Yasmina Rezas tidy 90minute situational comedy God of Carnage begins. Its a play that has seen several major productions in several major cities; it opened in Zurich, played
Alexandra Flanders
next in Paris, was first translated into English in London, and then of course, the Tony award-winning Broadway production starring heavyweights Hope Davis, Jeff Daniels, Marcia Gay Harden and James Gandolfini. Roman Polanski directed a film adaption, titled a shortened Carnage, earlier this year with even heavier-weights Kate Winslet, Christopher Waltz, Jodie Foster and John C. Reilly. A quick Google search will attest that God of Carnage is playing almost everywhere. And earlier past this winter, it premiered at the Huntingdon Theatre in downtown Boston. Reza is a highly successful playwright, actress, screenwriter and
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RnAgE tHAt O F CA HA
On
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of nerves
novelist. Her darling, Le Dieu du Carnage, (originally in French), is her most successful play to date. Its racked up a Tony for Best Play and an Olivier Award for Best New Play, widely known as highest honor in British theatre. God of Carnage is a wonderfully short and sweet play that chips away at two couples wellintentioned airs of civility. So, what is it about this trim serio-comedy thats charming audiences all over the world? Born in Paris, Reza is perhaps the only foreign-language playwright to truly see success in New York in recent years. Shes written quite a few award-winning plays, eight plays altogether before God of Carnage
that have fared very well in their English translations, among them, her comedy Art, which picked up the Tony Award for Best Play in 1998. All but a few would agree that Yasmina Rezas plays, which she refers to (in an interview with the Los Angeles Times) as a theater of nerves, slip almost seamlessly from one culture to next. A certain set of theatre critics refer to her as the queen of big ideas lite, and little black dress theatre, because her plays often seem quite simple, at least on the page. In the most undressed way, God of Carnage is a play about two well-to-do couples sitting in one living room having the same conversation. But underneath her
SA Ud IE nC E
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french playwright yasmina reza
slender, high symmetrical form are wisps of weightier topics. Reza is famed for her wry appraisal of societys subtleties. My work is visceral and subjective, shes said, Im interested the banal, unguarded moments and hairline fractures in a character that let the light through. In another interview, she was quoted claiming Theatre is a mirror, a sharp reflection of society. The greatest playwrights are moralists, but she sincerely denies that she has ever set out to a write a play from anywhere near a big idea. Instead, Reza begins with a small idea. God of Carnage came to her while walking her son home from school "I was talking to the mother of one of his classmates," she recalled. "Her son had suffered a
broken tooth following a fight on the playground, and she said to me, 'Do you realize: the parents haven't even called to apologize!' I immediately thought that there was an interesting theme here." And with that, Reza wrote the entire thing in three months. No method, she remarked in an interview with The Guardian, I just wrote it. Perhaps it is her slender ideas that attract theatregoers in such varied languages. Christopher Hampton, the London-based playwright who has translated almost all of Rezas plays to English, has a different opinion. What strikes me is how flexible Yasminas plays are to fit quite a wide range of actors. Her plays bend themselves to the actors this is also true of Pinter which is quite rare, Hampton told the LA Times. Hampton, highly successful himself his screenplay for Dangerous Liaisons, won the Oscar in 1989 (it was adapted from his play of the same name), and he won two Tonys for the book and lyrics to the musical Sunset Boulevard in 1995 added, With other plays, mine included, you have to be specific in the casting. While the language and the cast differ in each staging of God of Carnage, very little is altered in terms of content. Yasmina is very specific about everything. She really doesnt want anything to appear in front of the audience that she didnt write, Hampton noted. In the weeks before rehearsals began for the Broadway production of God of Carnage, Director Matthew Warchus, Reza and Hampton sat
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god of carnage original broadway cast: Jeff daniels, hope davis, James gandolfini, and marcia gay harden
down with the actors to translate the play into American, an entirely separate language from English. Among the revisions made to the script, they opted to move the play from Paris to Brooklyn, a choice Hampton and Reza had resisted when translating her other works. There is something about God of Carnage that is less specific and more universal. Yasmina, who had to be convinced, finally said yes, try it, Hampton recalled. It worked brilliantly. Earlier this winter, Bostons Huntington Theatre staged God of Carnage, with well-known actors Brooks Asmanskas, Johanna Day, Christy Pusz and Stephen Bogardus. And once again, it worked brilliantly. In a sit down with director Daniel Goldstein, who directed his first Broadway show last Fall, a revival of the Stephen Schwartz musical Godspell, and Huntingdons Artistic Director, Peter DuBois, asked, half-jokingly, Can you give us some context as to why people go bananas for this play? I mean, people go bananas for this play. Swallowing a giggle, Goldstein replied, Her work, I feel, doesnt operate under normal circumstances. She basically presents an argument. The point I want to make is, the play is, at its core,
hilariously funny. In another interview, DuBois, commented, Yasmina Reza is able to tell stories in a way that crosses cultures. Shes a great satirist. I think what she draws in are smart audiences looking for a laugh. Boston theatregoers withstood the unremitting, icy gusts of wind and perilously slick roads and sidewalks that often spoil January and February to see the Huntingdons production of God of Carnage, and, just as DuBois predicted, they were delighted. One audience member confirmed this, saying, It was witty and smart from start to finish. Not easy laughs but complicated, intelligent laughs. Interestingly, the film adaption of God of Carnage, a shortened, Carnage, directed by Oscar-winner and U.S. fugitive Roman Polanski seems to have downright missed the mark. In the New York Times review A.O. Scott writes, In trapping Ms. Rezas play in the framed flat dimensions of the screen, [Polanski] destroyed it. In the theater the audience and the actors occupy the same space, which in this case means that the spectators are complicit in the ritual scourging taking place onstage. Theatrical space is already a world unto itself. But in Mr. Polanskis film we are continually, literally aware of the
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world beyond the Longstreets apartment. A large part of the allure of God of Carnage, is in its simplicity: four well-defined characters sitting in a highly organized single living room set and behaving badly. And while Yasmina Reza herself was optimistic about Polanskis adaption, gushing, I admire him and I think that we understand each other, God of Carnage was never meant to be a movie. For the first time this little wonder play might have gotten a bit too full of itself. This is the first time 52-yearold Reza has allowed one of her plays to be adapted for film. Shes had plenty of offers; her play Art, winner of the French Molire award, the British Olivier award and the American Tony award (a first for a non-English language play) and translated into upwards of 30 languages has left her, in her words, inundated with requests from filmmakers but she has repeatedly turned them down. Curiously, she said yes this time. Reza and Polanski have worked together before when he asked her to translate his stage
version of Kafkas Metamorphosis in the late 1980s. Never mind Roman Polanskis troubling reputation and the six criminal charges waiting for him in the United States (Carnage had to be filmed in Paris), Reza has said more than once, I adore him. Elizabeth Day asked her if she had any scruples about working with him back then or on Carnage in an interview with The Guardian to which Reza briskly replied, No, I had no scruples. It went very well writing with him. We are identical. We dont discuss the meaning, we discuss the instinct. For a few who saw Carnage, the collaboration between Polanski and Reza was quite successful. Michael Phillips at The Chicago Tribune supposed Rezas almost compulsive style lends itself easily to the screen, calling her plays phenomenally flexible properties, taking place anywhere or nowhere in particular. In fact, Phillips applauded Polanski for upholding the single room set of the stage version, closing his review with; the way Polanski maneuvers around the apartment, framing a
bostons huntingdon theatre cast: stephen bogardus, Johanna day, christy putz, and brook ashmanskas
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vase of tulips just so, positioning one fraught face in the foreground while another comments nonverbally a few feet to the rear, Carnage becomes a lesson in how to handle a willfully claustrophobic assignment with panache. In all, its agreed that God of Carnage belongs on stage; its buoyed by spontaneity and honest laughter. Yasmina Reza writes the kind of pliant, chewy parts that actors and actresses lust after. Although not all actors succeed; Jodie Foster appeared too severe and splintered in Carnage, a critic for The Washington Post said she seemed especially at sea in her role, whereas Marcia Gay Harden won the Tony for Best Actress in the same role. Reza never explains or deconstructs her characters; Im not interested in what they were like as children, in psychoanalysis, because writing is totally instinctive. I work like a painter. If a painter is doing a portrait of someone, hes not interested in their childhood; he paints what he sees. Theres no explanation because it doesnt mean anything. Initially trained as an actress at the Jacques Lecoq school in Paris, shes said her experience on stage has informed [my] work enormously. She lets her actors sort things out for themselves. She leaves ample room for their interpretations. Her distinct attention to actors has led theatre critics to suggest her plays are trite and shes far too
reliant on great actors to vivify her writing. Even so, theres no disproving that the covert-worthy parts she writes are a marker of --- her success. David Ng, an American theatre historian has looked in Rezas popularity in North America. Hes found that, in all, her plays have seen almost 170 professional productions since 1998. Some theater companies give very practical reasons for Rezas appeal: small, easy sets that satisfy even smaller budgets, or her very natural, albeit intellectual, sense of theatre. Its agreed upon almost everywhere, Yasmina Reza knows how to make people laugh at themselves, and she does it playfully and with sophistication. Laughter, surprisingly, makes Reza uneasy. She was once quoted saying to a journalist at the Los Angeles Times, in 1998, Laughter is always a problem and is a very dangerous, a quote she claims was taken far out of context, The way people laugh changes the way you see a play. A very profound play may seem very light. My plays have always been described as comedy but I think theyre tragedy. They are funny tragedy, but they are tragedy. Maybe its a new genre. One thing Yasmina Reza will allow you to call her is accessible, otherwise dont laugh, dont cry, dont even smile, just sit and brood and youll have her respect.
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ed hair up in a messy ponytail, Eve Morocco, 21, yells Shaaake it! as Sexy and I Know It by LMFAO blasts through the room.This loud dance music echoes through the Group Exercise room and travels through Boston Universitys Fitness and Recreation Center (FitRec). It is a typical day at the gymrunners, weight trainers, and the machine users, all trying to get in a good workout for the day. While these gym goers perform their respective routines, people inside the Group Exercise room, all move close to unison. Their shirts cling to their backs with sweat. About 30 people are popping their chest, and moving their hips as Moroccos voice booms through the microphone telling them to drop it lower, Its a Zumba class. In the past few years, people all over the world have joined a Zumba craze. Since its inception in 2001, Zumba has become highly successful. More than 12 million people take weekly Zumba classes in over 110,000 locations in more than 125 countries. The New York Times reported last year that some of these sessions are taught at big city health clubs and storefront yoga studios, in church basements and school auditoriums even in nightclubs during the day. Locally, in the Fall of 2009, there was only one Zumba class offered at FitRec. Now, there are eight Zumba classes offered per week, and in comparison, only three Step classes. In October of 2010, USA Today published an article naming the top fitness trends for the coming year based on released reports by the American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM). From 2007 to 2010, ACSM surveyed more than 2,600 fitness professionals to compile the top 20 fitness trends for 2012. Zumba classes incorporate dance elements into an aerobic workout. Routines consist of
By: Weilynn Chang

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choreography that mixes lunges and squats with different moves from various dance forms such as hiphop, salsa, merengue, Bollywood, belly dancing, etc. Zumba instructors choose what kind of music they want to use in their classes. Some instructors go the traditional route and use more Latin-sounding tracks. Younger instructors more often use more mainstream dance music varying from artists like Shakira to Nicki Minaj. Such songs generate more exciting bodily movements and an overall livelier environment. It all started 11 years ago, when Alberto Beto Perez, a fitness instructor in his native Cali, Colombia, forgot to bring his usual aerobics music to class one day. Instead of cancelling the class, he
decided to use some salsa and merengue music he grew up with, which he happened to have in his bag. In that moment, Zumba, often referred to as a fitness party, was born. In Colombian slang, zumba means fast-moving. It also serves as a fusion of the word samba, the lively Brazilian dance form, with rumba, meaning party. Perez went from a former street performer to someone who is poised to become the next fitness superstar. After his exercise video launched, it sold more than $20-million worth of copies in its first seven months. He often picks out the oldest, most overweight or uncoordinated in the class to encourage them. Colombias long-running drug-fueled conflict had reached a new peak of violence, prompting an exodus of Colombians headed for Miami. Among them were many of the countrys wealthy Jewish elite
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who were some of Betos best clients in Bogota. Beto brought his new danceaerobic class to Miami in 2001 and teamed with entrepreneurs Alberto Perlman and Alberto Aghion to create the Zumba Fitness Company. A following began to grow in 2001 after they launched their own VHS infomercial. People started to call Beto asking him if they offered any classes and if they trained instructors (now, you can attend Zumba certification workshops). In a 2002 article published in the St. Petersburg Times, he stated that he is Good at managing the masses, and that he does the opposite of what people expect. I dance with the most introverted, most timid and least confident. In 2007, the company launched a global product line in an effort to turn Zumba Fitness into a lifestyle a clothing line of tank tops, shoes and flip flops joined a series of DVDs as part of the companys increasing product offering. There are now also Zumba video games for Nintendo Wii and Xbox 360. The electrifying music and exotic hip-hop infused dance moves really draw people in. Zumba is definitely a lot more fun than any other workout, Girish Swaminath, a sophomore at Fordham University said. Its a nice change: it feels great
when I am actually doing it, and afterward, it feels even better. To many gym goers, this fitness party is a new kind of exercise that focuses on letting the music move you and drive you. Zumba is kind of like moves we all probably do in our rooms for fun, and that we also do at clubs. You get to move your hips around and we girls love to do that kind of stuff. And, it also makes you feel sexy! Besides making women feel youthful and sexy, Zumba classes dont feel too much like exercise. Women get bored with the treadmill and other equipment and want activities that make the time go by quicker,explained Dr. Andrea Mercurio, a Social Psychology and Women and Health professor at BU. So to certain extents, classes like Zumba can keep women active in ways that they wouldnt be otherwise. Zumba advertises slogans like Ditch the workout, join the party. It is simple, easy to learn, and a super good work out, said 50year-old Diana Shiue who loyally attends a Zumba class every Sunday at 24 Hour Fitness Center said. She believes it is way more effective than running on a treadmill because the fun factor plays an important role. Although Zumba seems to be generating tons of positive responses, there are those who are
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skeptical about the negative effects of this exercise and whether it is actually better than any other form is it really much different than using the treadmill? In her Zumba classes, instructor Melissa White who was the graduate assistant at FitRec last year emphasized the importance of safety cues. She would tell her students that when they were popping their chest they needed to remember to properly use their core while they were contracting their chests. If they dont exercise these precautions they could strain their backs. Moreover,
When I am doing Zumba, I dont just feel younger. I feel so much happier.
according to Harvard Health Publications, a good treadmill workout burns between 450 to 500 calories in 60 minutes. The Zumba website advertises that depending on your level of fitness and the intensity you put forth, you can burn between 500 to 1,000 calories in a 60 minute workout. Zumba is a total body workout that involves both cardio and strengthbut, as with any exercise routine its effectiveness is also based on the amount of energy and effort you decide to put into it. Personally, I have lost 20 pounds since I started using my dance background to teach Zumba and thats basically the only thing that Ive been doing, Eve Morocco said. Swaminath expressed similar sentiments, saying that he could actually feel the benefits after a class. Not only did he feel more body shaping, but he also said that Zumba has even improved his
overall body coordination and balance tremendously. Perhaps this is why there has been a global buzz surrounding Zumba. There is a Zumba convention every year in Orlando, Florida; about 6,000 avid Zumba dancers from around the world will be gathering in Orlando, Florida from August 9th-12th. At last years convention, rapper Pitbull made a concert appearance. There was also a keynote speaker, Pamela Peeke, a health and fitness expert and leading physician in the United States. Often described as a Zumba playground, this convention brings together Zumba instructors and professionals from around the globe and hosts a series of dance parties and social events that allow teachers to share new techniques, choreography, and music. During Zumbas most important event of the year, there are also a plethora of master classes; some of these master classes are taught by Beto himself, or by Zumba celebrity instructors like Tanya Beardsley. The event also offered courses geared toward special populations such as those arthritis, heart disease, diabetes, and low back pain, and even pre- and post-natal Zumba dancers. While Zumba had humble beginnings, the growing popularity of this happy accident, does not appear to be winding down any time soon. The avid participants in the ongoing Zumba craze do in fact attach a lot of meaning to this one gym class. For Shiue, Zumba brings her something that no other workout can. I dont just feel so much younger, she said. When I am doing Zumba, I feel so much happier.
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where you can find zumba classes:

1. Cambridge Athletic Center 215 First Street Cambridge, MA, 02142 (617) 491-8989 2. BodyScapes-Coolidge Corner 1285 Beacon Street Brookline, MA, 02446 (617) 232-1010 3. Beacon Hill Athletic Center 85 Atlantic Avenue Boston, MA, 02109 (617) 742-0055 4. HealthworksBack Bay 441 Stuart Street, 2nd Floor Boston, MA 02116 (617) 859-7700
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over a Century old
and still flying high

One small field has a history that soars
Daniel Wroclawski
n April 17th, 1910, the thensoon-to-be-famous yacht designer William Starling Burgess and his partner, Augustus M. Herring, brought their second airplane prototype, the Flying Fish, out of their hangar and onto the marshes between Plum Island and the mainland, thirty miles north of Boston. According to accounts
from the American Aviation Historical Society Journal, printed in the summer of 1965, it was around 5:30 a.m. on the cold, calm morning and the sun was just beginning to rise. At 6:30 a.m., just after sunrise, Herring took the controls of the Flying Fish. With Burgess and their friends and family standing by, he accelerated
down the wooden track over the marsh. Slowly, the Flying Fish rose off the track and flew about 100 yards, not even 15 feet off the ground, in a moment akin to the Wright Brothers first flight only seven years earlier on the sandy dunes of North Carolinas Outer Banks. This was the first flight at Plum Island, which would later
become the first airport in New England. Today, the airport is vastly different. It is no longer in the marsh, instead located about one mile away from the original site on the mainland. When you drive by Plum Island Airport, the first thing you notice is a long grassy field paralleling the Plum Island Turnpike. Once you get closer to the airport, you notice red traffic cones marking the field and it becomes apparent that it is a grass runway. The turnpike makes a slight bend and it is off this bend that you can park at the airport in a large gravel lot. On one side of the lot sits a tinroofed hangar. On the other side sits an old wood-plank covered building. In between the two buildings is a large, cracked, jagged, asphalt runway. There are some small, older airplanes dotting the edges of the tarmac. Meanwhile, the airport is completely quiet, except for the sounds of cars passing along the turnpike and the creaking of the old blue sign that shows the name of the airport as it swings in the breeze. The small, one-story, wood-plank
covered building doubles as a museum and the airports FBO (fixed-base operator, which is a type of terminal). The airports only paved runway is part of a decadeold legal battle with a neighboring landholder who decided to erect a fence across the runway, claiming that part of the runway was built on his land and is therefore his property. The airport does not seem special, but nothing could be farther from the truth. Despite its current state of affairs, this airport has a very prestigious history. Burgess first set up his testing facility on the marshes in April 1910. He built a hangar, with a small apartment for himself and his wife, and a wooden track for the airplane (early aircraft used skids instead of wheels). It had nice wide-open flat area because they did not know much about flying back then, said Charlie Eaton, a local aviation history expert and a curator of the Burgess Museum. Burgess also selected the marsh since it was wet around high tide, which would lubricate the skids of the airplane for take-off and landing. The field was used by Burgess and his partners through August of that year. By September, as the AAHS Journal
reports, Burgess and his company had left Plum Island, never to return. For about the next decade, the airports history is relatively unknown. According to written accounts from Ted Russell, another curator of the Burgess Museum, the earliest accounts of airplane activity are from 1926, when the U.S. Army Air Service created an emergency landing field at the airports current location. Yet what occurred in terms of flying at Plum Island from the summer of 1910 to 1926 remains a mystery. The airport finally opened for public use a decade later in 1933 when Joseph Basso and W.F. Bartlett became the leaseholders of the airport from the Little family, which owned the land upon which the airport was built for over a century. In 1937, the lease was sold to Warren Frothingham and his partner, John Johnnie Polando, holder of a nonstop long-distance flight record from New York to Istanbul, who both ran the airport and greatly increased its popularity. At this time, Newburyport began offering airmail service from the town into Logan Airport in Boston. Postmen brought the mail via stagecoach from the Newburyport Post Office to Plum Island Airport. In addition to flying the mail to Boston, Polando offered passenger service and flight training. Meanwhile, Frothingham paved the runway and added hangars, an office building, and a small eatery to the airport, the Cockpit Caf. They had a contest in Newburyport and a young lady picked Cockpit Caf, said Eaton. She won the contest and I think she got an airplane ride out of that. Today, the building that housed the Cockpit Caf houses the Burgess Museum. Polando stayed at the airport until 1942, when he left to do testing at MIT and eventually joined the
All photos courtesy of chArlie eAton
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sketches of the originAl flying fish
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Army Air Force. During World War II, the Coast Guard used the airport and kept a small fleet of planes there. Civilians were not allowed to use the airport during the war as the government closed all civilian airports within 25 miles of the coast. After the war, Frothingham continued to operate the airport until 1966. During that time, he added another hangar and the grass runway to the airport. The airport was very prosperous until 1977, when a hangar fire burnt down five buildings at the airport. One of the destroyed, but historic, hangars was built from the packing crates of an assault glider of the same model used in the Invasion of Normandy. The building that would later house the Burgess Museum was one of only two buildings left standing. A year later, the Great Blizzard of 1978 damaged the runway and additional small hangars, not to mention multiple airplanes. As the airport began to decline, it hit another setback in 2001 as the neighboring landowner erected a fence across the paved runway. Since erecting the fence, the landowner has parked various vehicles on his piece of the runway.
A small, seemingly abandoned and dilapidated house guards the cut off strip of asphalt and no-trespassing signs further prevent anyone from going near the annexed strip. The eight-foot fence shortened the airstrip from about 2,455 feet to 2,105 feet and created a hazard for landing aircraft, which must approach at a higher altitude to safely clear the fence. The airports grass runway is 2,300 feet long, but only smaller aircraft can land on grass as it can be damaging to the landing gears of larger aircraft. However, due to the shortened asphalt runway, larger aircraft could no longer land at Plum Island, further hurting business opportunities for the once prosperous airport. In 2001, Ted Russell led a non-profit organization called Plum Island Community Airfield, Inc. (PICA), in purchasing the lease from the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities (today known as Historic New England), which was given the land by the last surviving member of the Little family upon her passing away. Under Russells
leadership, the airport saw the creation in 2002 of the Burgess Museum, which contains many photos and historical artifacts from the airports history, as well as a large collection of models of the types of aircraft that flew into the airport over the last century. These are all hard to find, long out of production kits, said Eaton of the models, all of which he built himself. He also acquired a number of antique airplane gauges and instruments, including a machine gun camera that was used to make war films. Today the airport is operated by Plum Island Aerodrome, Inc. (PIA), a new non-profit organization that formed in 2006 as PICA stepped down. PIA acquired a new lease for the airport from Historic New England that same year. The organizations president, Steve Noyes, also manages the airports operations along with its two museums, the Burgess Museum and the Working Museum. Noyes began taking serious steps to improve the airport. He acquired a state grant to repair the paved runway and he convinced the state mosquito control to use Plum Island as a base for one of its aircraft. He also built the airports current hangar five years ago and created the Working Museum, whose volunteers actively restore antique aircraft. Aircraft restoration is a very serious hobby. These volunteers take old airplanes, salvage their parts, repair damage and corrosion on their airframes, build new skins, and recover missing components to completely restore aircraft and return them to the skies. Noyes has restored many aircraft at the museum, turning it into a small
90
business for himself. Other volunteers mainly use the museum for their own personal projects. Unfortunately, aircraft restoration does not yield great profits. Dick Copithorne, the airports new assistant manager, admits that he and Noyes have to take a lot of money out of their own pockets to keep the airport running month after month. In fact, Noyes paid for the construction of the hangar and a new fuel tank. However, Copithorne has not given up hope for making the airport prosperous once more. In fact, he has a plan to turn the airport around. We really would like to get the airport operating so we can take on wonderful projects at the Working Museum, said Copithorne. After five years of planning and setbacks, Copithorne is happy to announce that the airport started selling fuel this April. He hopes it will draw more business to the airport, especially during the busier summer months. Hopefully this summer, we are going to have flight training, airplane rides, fuel, and ice cream, said Copithorne. Thats my ambition and I want to advertise and market, market, market so everybody knows we have fuel and so forth. Copithorne is optimistic for the airports future. In five years, he hopes to have a coffee shop at the airport and possibly a second hangar constructed. He also would
like to expand the Burgess Museum with more historical artifacts. We have a group of solid individuals now. We are all mentally attached to the airport, said Copithorne. From its historic beginnings to its humble rebirth over a century later, Plum Island Airport has stood the test of time and managed to remain relevant in the aviation world. Its relevance and importance shrunk to only those who live near it and care deeply for it. For Charlie Eaton, he can remember coming down to the airport as a young boy and buying a Coke from an old Coke machine. He only had to pay a nickel. Both of his parents were part of the Civil Air Patrol stationed at Plum Island. For Charlie, who used to fly both airplanes and helicopters, flying is in his blood. Likewise, flying is in the blood of the airport. Its future may be uncertain, but Copithorne, Eaton, Noyes, and Russell will stop at nothing to preserve the airport.
All photos courtesy of chArlie eAton
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coast on the Winter

By Sa m Galan is
Although the beaches are beautiful, the water temperature averages around a brisk 35 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. However, the beach isnt the only place to go in the Cape.
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New England winters bring throngs of people to enjoy the mountains and cozy cabins. But this usually comes at high prices. Luckily, you can skip the mountains and still experience New England without spending a fortune. Cape Cod is one of the regions most cherished vacation spots. Every summer, New Englanders and tourists head along the coast down Massachusetts route six to enjoy the Cape Cod National Seashore. And the great thing about the Cape, as its known, is that its still there in the winter. Although the beaches are beautiful, the water temperature averages around a brisk 35 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. However, the beach isnt the only place to go on the Cape. Because the winter is considered the Capes offseason, even the nicer hotels have vacancies and generally offer lower rates. The Inn at the Oaks in Eastham is a great example. Located in the Outer Cape with easy access to the rest of the Cape, this cozy three-star bed and breakfast costs around $200 a night in the summer. Luckily, they cut the rates in half for the winter, even on weekends. The former
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A meAl From grumPys
Provincetown Art AssociAtion AnD museum
mArconi beAch, PArt oF the cAPe coD nAtionAl seAshore
Victorian mansion sits on two acres of land. Big windows let the sunlight illuminate the inn, and antique decorations give it a very homey atmosphere. Complimentary breakfast is served every morning, and modern amenities such as cable and WiFi are provided. But places like this generally have few rooms (The Inn at the Oaks has 11), so make sure to book your stay before the last minute. If you opt to find a place thats a little cheaper than most of the Capes bed and breakfasts, the area is still full of quaint breakfast restaurants. One of the best is a chain called Hearth n Kettle. Although it has expanded to a few towns outside of the area, Hearth n Kettle has its roots in Cape Cod. It is decorated in a colonial style, with the hosts dressed in period garb. They offer hearty, naturally made dishes, most for less than $10 a plate. They have traditional choices like hash and eggs, and a variety of omelettes and pancakes, as well as healthier versions of all these. If youd rather go someplace hyper-local instead a chain, try Grumpys in East Dennis. Dont let the name fool you, though, because the food will leave you happy as a clam. They have all the regular dishes and more, such as delectable cornmeal pancakes, breakfast burritos, and frittatas. With lines out the door in the summer, youll have much more luck getting in during the winter. But if you still run into trouble with the crowds, you can always take out.
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three sisters lighthouses
Provincetown beAch with A view oF the Pilgrim monument
the inn At the oAks
The one problem you run into going to the Cape during the winter is the lack of seafood, simply because no one is fishing. Most of the restaurants sell freshly-caught seafood, meaning most of them wont have any while youre there. But dont think for a second that the Cape is only good for its seafood. Anywhere thats hyper-local is going to be serving good food. Theres bound to be somewhere within a mile radius of anywhere you could be staying. If you have the time and means of getting there, then you should definitely plan at least a day trip to Provincetown. Provincetown, or P-town, is a quirky little town with a rich history. In fact, this is where the Pilgrims first anchored and signed the Mayflower Compact before crossing the Cape Cod Bay to Plymouth. Located on the extreme tip of the Cape, it takes about two hours to drive there from the Upper Cape, but its worth it. Its a small town (Its population is just under
3000) with a lot of character. Its winding streets are full of shops and cafes to peruse. But perhaps most interestingly, Provincetown boasts a strong gay community and artistic community. There are different festivals year-round. The Provincetown Art Association and Museum is open Thursday through Sunday during the winter. Admission is only $5 and the museum boasts many interesting exhibits, most from local artists. Also, see if there are any drag shows at the Crown & Anchor, an inn that features six gay bars and clubs. Theyre sure to be entertaining. Check out the Provincetown Chamber of Commerce website to see exactly what will be going on while youre there. Even if you cant go in the water (comfortably at least), the beaches are still great to see before you leave the Cape. The National Seashore is probably the most attractive, but there are plenty of smaller beaches to see. Check out
some of the lighthouses while youre there as well. Not all of them are open during the winter, but some are. The Three Sisters are probably the most interesting. The three lighthouses 150 feet away from each other were named for the fact that from far away, the lighthouses looked like ladies in white dresses with black hats. However, the original lighthouses risked destruction from erosion, and three new, movable ones were built. The old ones were allowed to fall into the Atlantic. Interestingly, the new ones were moved all around the Cape until they settled in their current location on Cable Road in Eastham in 1989. Most importantly, dont be afraid to explore. The Cape is basically designed for tourists. Drive up and down scenic Route 6 and through all the little towns to see what you can find. There are plenty of candy shops and novelty stores to peek around in, and places to make you feel like a kid again.
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little city, big flavor
Portland,
Caroline Ganson
rts, culture and seafood collide in this little town located along Maines beautiful coastline. Immediately upon arrival, you feel the quaint and laidback atmosphere quietly seeping into the city air. The hustle of Boston is behind you, and its time to relax. Welcome to Portland. The sun is shining and theres a chilly breeze as we step off the bus. The sideways snow we witnessed on the drive up stopped, much to our relief, and the morning was filled with the promise of a great day.
Being new to Maine and both carless and clueless, we walk (partly along the highway whoops) to our home for the next night, the Inn at St. John. Located just outside the downtown area, the Inn was clean, friendly, charming and, most important for college students, cheap. Splendid. Immediately we were welcomed by the-oh-so friendly staff who offered us freshly baked cookies, hot chocolate and coffee. A perfect welcome for a brisk February morning. Crazy floral patterns and strange architecture give the Inn a
quirky and lovable personality that cant help but remind you of Grandmas house. Our room was much to our satisfaction. Small, yet roomy enough. Dated, yet cute. After mooching a couple cups of the complimentary hot chocolate we were off. The innkeepers gave us a brunch recommendation, and we trekked there on foot something Im assuming most locals dont do. People were generally shocked when we said we didnt have a car. However, since were Bostonians and used to walking everywhere the
96
Maine
fifteen-minute hike they claimed was far was no biggie. We arrived at Bintliffs American Caf around 11 a.m. on a Saturday prime brunch time. Although the place is notorious for a long wait, within twenty minutes we were happily seated in an upstairs booth sipping on Irish coffees gazing at the mouthwatering options we had to choose from. The menu is any brunch fans dream complete with four types of French toast, a dark chocolate Belgian waffle, omelets, frittatas, scrambles and
eight, yes eight different types of benedicts. After much deliberation I decide on the Vegetable Benedict with a side of the bistro steak. All I can say is excellent choice. I felt less guilty about my whipped cream topped beverage as this thing was loaded with veggies two poached eggs over roasted Portobello mushroom on an English muffin with sauted baby spinach, tomato, mushroom, asparagus, onion, red bell pepper, broccoli, zucchini and hollandaise. Simply delicious. The
side steak was cooked to a mouthwatering medium and seasoned to perfection. Definitely one of those meals that make you wish your stomach never filled. Portland has a vibrant, thriving food culture in an area that can be walked in 20 minutes, says Bintliffs manager, Joe Catoggio. For a city as small as Portland, there is an incredible diversity of culture, style and price. You can dine with a James-Beard-award-winning chef in an elegant atmosphere, or walk down the street and enjoy
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family cooking from any one of a dozen different cultures. Portland is receiving national attention as a food destination. And after the meal we had, its easy to see why. We waddle out of the caf feeling full and happy and head toward the downtown area. Known for its arts and culture, Portland has quaint streets filled with cute eateries, pubs, unique shops and a friendly crowd. After browsing several shops and purchasing a pair of hand-painted margarita glasses and homemade caramel popcorn, we decided to beat the afternoon lull with a snack at East End Cupcakes located on Fore Street.
With flavors like pumpkin, salted caramel, red velvet and espresso, its no wonder this place was featured on Food Networks Cupcake Wars. Faced with another tough decision, we chose a peanut butter cupcake
product that lives up to the expectations people have when they eat in this town, says owner Alysia Zoidis. Portland has a great sense of community and there are a lot of people here who are passionate about supporting local businesses. In addition to the supportive community, Portland's acclaimed food scene makes it a great location for East End Cupcakes. We needed something to wash down the cupcake, so why not a little beer? Portland is home to the Shipyard Brewery, after all. It was about a ten-minute walk to its Newbury Street location (much different than Bostons Newbury Street, thats for sure). The Shipyard Brewing Company has been making handcrafted beer in Maine for almost twenty years. According to the brewers themselves, Shipyard beers are all about drinkability, consistency and balance and every batch is brewed by hand in small batches using only the finest ingredients, including topfermenting, multi-strain yeast from Ringwood Brewery. To our disappointment, the Brewery was going through renovations, making tours and tasting unavailable at the time. Oh well, the brewery has a beautiful location along this historic waterfront, making the walk downtown extremely enjoyable. Culture and history collide along Portlands Congress Street. The city has a thriving arts district
The city has a thriving arts district made up of museums, galleries, artist studios, performing arts and music.
filled with marshmallow fluff dipped in rich dark chocolate icing the last one. Disappointment need not apply. It was amazing. High quality and unbeatable flavor are critical factors in East Ends success in Portland. It was really important to us to create a made up of museums, galleries, artist studios, performing arts and music, says Kristen Levesque of the Portland Museum of Art. In Maines largest city, you can go from spontaneous street art to highbrow contemporary art in the turn of a street corner. The Portland
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Museum of Art is the citys must-see destination with over 17,000 objects. Home to crafts, early American furniture and works by Picasso, Matisse, Monet in addition to early American Mainers such as Andrew Wyeth, Edward Hopper and Winslow Homer the museum boasts over 160,000 visitors per year.
For a city as small as Portland, there is an incredible diversityof culture, style and price.
This medium-sized museum located in the center of the arts district is housed in three architecturally significant buildings, one of which is an award-winning building designed by I.M. Pei and Partners. Locals, however, are not the single cause of the museums success. Being a coastal city and a port for cruise ships, we see a large number of tourists in the summer, says Levesque. Maines largest industry is tourism and this definitely helps with our numbers from the summer and into the fall. As you can see all of the galleries in about an hour, the museum is perfect for the casual visitor who can enjoy everything with out museum fatigue. In addition to the citys artistic nature, Portland is known as the Foodiest Small Town in America. It has the largest amount of restaurants per capita, which can make choosing the ideal dinnertime place a difficult task. Irish? Cant get enough of that green and orange and corned beef and cabbage? Or maybe youre just looking for a hearty meal and a good brew? With the plethora of small pubs and taverns dotting Portlands streets, finding the perfect pub can pose quite the challenge. After asking several locals their top picks, we decided on Bull Feenys on Fore Street. They won me over in no time by featuring my favorite
beer, Leffe Blonde, on tap. We ordered the crab dip to start. Not too creamy or bland, the dip was paired beautifully with crispy pita chips. Afterward we ordered the black and tan sirloin a complete gem. Served with a mixture of white and sweet potato fries and seasonal vegetables the steak is marinated in Guinness stout and bass ale absolutely phenomenal. We stayed post meal to enjoy their live music Irish drinking songs. Yes, we were still in the states, but you couldve fooled me. The lively crowd and energetic performer certainly brought me back to time spent in Dublin. Another great Irish selection located by the water is Ri Ra Irish pub. Originating from the phrase Ri Ra agus Ruaile Buail, which translates to celebration and good fun, the pub takes you back in time. The ambiance boasts beautiful views of the water and coziness complete with an old potbelly stove, an immigrant from Spike Island Prison in Cove, county in Cork, Ireland. Thats not the only authentic Irish fixture in the place. The entry doors were retrieved from the famous Langtons Pub of Kilkenny and the paneling on the bars counter is from Allied Irish Bank in Dublin. These little tidbits add to the authentic feel, along with their selection of traditional Irish foods and beers. Portland is a perfect getaway for college students or young adults who have no car and limited funds. The less than two-hour trip from Boston only cost seven dollars with Megabus. Book even earlier and theres a chance you only have to pay a buck. Its a small city with loads of personality and can easily be conquered in a couple days. Have a free weekend? Walk. Shop. Drink. Eat. Its all doable in Portland, Maine.
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shot around town

Some of our favorite photos taken around Boston!
Blue State Coffee On 957 Commonwealth Avenue, Blue State Coffee provides patrons from Allston and Brookline with delicious freetrade coffees, teas and sandwiches. Diners can vote on which community initiative the cafe will donate to next!
Great Blue Heron This Great Blue Heron hunts for food at Halls Pond in Brookline, a quiet park off of Beacon Street. Park-goers can enjoy the quiet beauty the pond offers, or they can catch pick up games of frisbee and football on weekends.
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THE LOBSTER HABIT

STILL FLYING HIGH

| MARCH 2012 | ISSUE 1 | VOLUME 1 | wayfare

alexandra flanders editor

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sam galanis production manager

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liZ peters art director

a.j. herrmann copy editor

a.j. is a freak for all things sports

Boston's Biggest yankee fan.

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weilynn aspires to Capture the little

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where you can find zumba classes:

over a Century old

and still flying high

All photos courtesy of chArlie eAton

sketches of the originAl flying fish

coast on the Winter

A meAl From grumPys

Provincetown Art AssociAtion AnD museum

mArconi beAch, PArt oF the cAPe coD nAtionAl seAshore

three sisters lighthouses

Provincetown beAch with A view oF the Pilgrim monument

the inn At the oAks

little city, big flavor

shot around town

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