Вы находитесь на странице: 1из 31

B F

SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL FROM

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing

9 x 12 240pp hardcover, spiral binding 978-1-56367-486-0

CONTENTS

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Contents
Extended Contents ....................................................ix Preface............................................................................xi

Chapter 1

Tools and Supplies .........................................1


Chapter 2

Skirts .........................................................................21
Chapter 3

Bodice ......................................................................55
Chapter 4

Bodice Variations..........................................79
Chapter 5

Necklines and Collars ...........................107


Chapter 6

Sleeves ...................................................................133
Chapter 7

Dresses ..................................................................165
Chapter 8

vii

Drawing ..............................................................189 Appendix ............................................................221

EXTENDED CONTENTS

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Extended Contents
Preface............................................................................xi

Chapter 3

Bodice
Chapter 1

Tools and Supplies


Draping: Muslin......................................................2 Tools and Supplies...........................................2 Comparing the Dress Form to the Drawn Form............................................4 Drafting: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6 Tools and Supplies...........................................6 Drafting: Paper Pattern to Sloper ......................7 Tools and Supplies...........................................7 Terms and Definitions...........................................8 Draping ...................................................................10 Taping the Dress Form ................................14 Pattern Symbol Legend ......................................16 Drawing ..................................................................17 Tools and Supplies ........................................17 Drawing the Flat Figure.....................................18 Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure ...................19

Draping the Bodice..............................................56 Trueing the Bodice Muslin................................62 Making the Bodice Sloper .................................66 Drafting the Bodice from Measurements .....68 Drafting the Neckline and Armholes......72 Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders .....73 Completed Bodice Draft .............................74 Shaping the Bodice .......................................75 Drawing Options .................................................76

Chapter 4

Bodice Variations
Bodice Variations .................................................80 Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination ...80 Princess Seam.....................................................82 Armhole Princess Seam ..................................86 Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90 Drawing Bodice Variations ...........................93 Side and Waist Darts.......................................94 Shoulder Yoke with Tucks and Gathered Waist ......................................96 Gathered Neck with Yoke..........................100 Dartless Back Shoulder................................103 Drawing Bodice Details .............................104

Chapter 2

Skirts
Draping the Skirt .................................................22 Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28 Making the Skirt Sloper.....................................32 Drafting the Skirt from Measurements.........34 Drawing Skirt Flats .............................................38 Skirt Variations .....................................................39 Straight Skirt ...................................................39 Flare Skirt ........................................................42 Six-Gore Skirt .................................................45 Pleated Skirt ....................................................48 Dirndl Skirt .....................................................50 Drawing Structured Drape ...............................52

ix

Chapter 5

Necklines and Collars


Necklines ..................................................108 Jewel Neck ..........................................108 V-Neck ................................................110 Scoop Neck .........................................112 Square Neck ........................................114 Bateau Neck ........................................116

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Collars.......................................................118 Peter Pan Collar ..................................118 Pilgrim Collar ......................................120 Mock Shawl ........................................122 Convertible Collar...............................124 Two-Piece Shirt Collar.........................126 Band Collar .........................................128 Drawing Necklines and Collars ................130

Chapter 8

Drawing
Donald Brooks: Costume and Fashion Designer .............................190 Collars and Cuffs......................................192 Five Stages for a Garment: Collar.............194 Sleeves .......................................................196 Five Stages for a Garment: Sleeve .............198 Pleating .....................................................200 Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice ............202 Five Stages for a Garment: Skirt ..............204 Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice Variations ...................................206 Five Stages for a Garment: Dress .............208 Back Drape ..............................................210 Dresses ......................................................212 Sketching Options.....................................214 Flat Figure and Fashion Figure .................216 Drawing Soft Drape..................................218

Chapter 6

Sleeves
Draping the Sleeve ....................................134 Stuffed Arm .........................................134 Marking the Muslin ...........................140 Drafting the Straight Sleeve ......................144 Draft from Measurements ..................145 Draft the Cap ......................................146 Drafting the Fitted Sleeve .........................148 Draft....................................................148 Sleeves ......................................................150 Leg-o-Mutton ......................................150 Slim-Fitted Bell ....................................152 Blouse ..................................................154 Full Bell ...............................................156 Puff .....................................................158 Turn-Up Cuff .....................................160 Drawing Sleeves .......................................162

Appendix
Dress Form Measurement Chart ..............222 Standard Sportswear and Streetwear Dress Form ...........................223 Croquis Templates ....................................224

Chapter 7

Dresses
Dress Foundation Sloper...........................166 Draping the Dress Foundation Sloper.......168 Dresses ......................................................170 Shift Dress ...........................................170 Princess Dress ......................................174 Sheath Dress ........................................178 Tent Dress............................................180 Drawing Dresses .......................................184 Design Variety...........................................186

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

PREFACE

Preface
T
his book is about a dialog between an artist and a technician. It illustrates the design process, encompassing sketch and garment pattern development. It depicts the relationship among three disciplines of fashion design: draping, drafting, and drawing. The integration is presented in a highly visual format. These disciplines, particularly draping and drafting, are often taught in separate classes. Their relationship is integral to efficient and timesaving methods of developing a design and its pattern. Our aim is to create bridges between studio methods and design illustration. Each chapter renders a combination of skills and the natural flow among them. Two-dimensional design informs the three-dimensional and vice versa. Chapters are presented as hands-on learning experiences with lessons that mimic classroom demonstrations. Step-by-step photography portrays the draping process in a sculptural way rather than using illustrations, which cannot truly depict the response of fabric draped on a dress form. The images of muslin sculpture combined with digital drafts offer interchangeable solutions for pattern development. Throughout the book, there are alternative methods used by practicing designers for developing slopers. These are master patterns, created by draping or drafting and used to generate style variations. We chose the basic components of the dress as the model used throughout the text to demonstrate how draping, drafting, and drawing are integrated in design development. The components are the skirt, bodice, neckline, collar, sleeve, and dress foundation. These disciplines are similarly integrated in the design of mens and childrens wear. Each chapter builds on the last. After an introduction to tools and preparation techniques in Chapter 1, Chapters 2, 3, and 6 begin with draping as the first step in producing a sloper. Drafting the sloper is then offered as an alternative method. Chapters 4, 5, and 7, focusing respectively on bodice variations, necklines and collars, and dresses, begin with drafting because, for many of the design variations, these chapters utilize slopers developed in the previous chapters. In the case of a design variation such as the leg-omutton sleeve, for example, drafting the pattern is more efficient than draping it. All design starts with an idea, which needs to be translated into a sketch. Drawing basics are interwoven throughout the book, with an emphasis on understanding body lines in relation to the dress form and proportion. It is directed toward communicating specific garment detail in the context of related projects. Lessons ground the creative process and strike a balance between the technical and visual elements. Drawing informs draping and drafting, just as these disciplines inform drawing. Step-by-step instructions on

xi

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

drawing the fashion figure as well as flats are included in each chapter. Drawings correspond to patterns and convey countless ideas for design diversification and inspiration. In 2003, Kathleen Maggio curated the exhibit Donald Brooks: Designer for all Seasons. She became acquainted with Mr. Brooks and his work while he served as a visiting designer critic to the fashion design department of Parsons School of Design. This twentieth century designer is renowned for his accomplishments in costume design as well as on Seventh Avenue. The authors found that dresses from the exhibition collection served as the ideal inspiration for this book. Even using the basic garment components taught in this book, Mr. Brooks designs exude timelessness in their execution and fabrication. Chapter 8 is devoted to drawing exercises focused on rendering his designs and their fine design details. It also depicts the relationship that exists among draping, drafting, and drawing exemplified in the images of garments from Chapters 2 through 7.

Acknowledgments
We would like to thank Tim Maggio for his photography, technical drawings, and graphics. Thank you to Fred Gross for his word crafting of drawing text and support. To Wolf Form Company, thanks for their assistance. We are grateful to Bill Rancitelli for his drawings, as well as to Jerry Blum and Kay Blick for a glimpse into Donald Brooks portfolio. Many thanks to Fairchild Books editors Olga Kontzias, Sylvia Weber, Jessica Rozler, and Beth Cohen and the multi-talented Fairchild team for helping us to bring this project together. To the reviewers selected by the publisher, we express our appreciation of their recommendations. They are Melanie Carrico, Kent State University; Andy Chan, Massachusetts College of Art; Kathy Mullet, Oregon State University; Artis Rewerts, University of Texas Austin; Susan L. Stark, San Francisco State University; and Sandra Tonz, Mt. Mary College. Wed also like to thank our students, whose enthusiasm and creativity continue to kindle our passion for fashion.

xii

3
B OD I CE

With experience gained from producing the skirt sloper, you can now develop the bodice pattern. Draping the bodice involves balancing the front and back muslin, distributing and controlling fullness by forming darts, and fitting the neckline and armhole. The muslin drape is trued and transferred to paper, and a sloper is created. Detailed instructions depict taking measurements and drafting a flat pattern for the bodice as another option. Drawing the body contours is a critical factor in visually communicating the fit and form of the bodice. Studies of body lines, proportion, pose, flats, and specs are included in this chapter.

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Draping the Bodice


Tape the Dress Form
Bust Center front and center back Princess lines Side seam Base of the neckline Shoulder seam Shoulder blade level (4 down from neckline at CB) Armhole ridge Note: Do not cover seam lines with tape. Pin along side them.

Prepare the Muslin 1 Front length: Measure from the


dress form neckband to the waist at CF plus 2
Bust Level Width

Mark the Muslin 1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in CF line

2 Front width: Measure from the


CF at bust level to the side seam plus 2 12
Length Side Seam Center Front

2 Measure from the neckband to


the bust level. Square a line across the muslin.

3 Measure from the CF to the


side seam across bust level. Add 12 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.

56

Drape 1 Align the muslin length


and cross grain line with the tape on the dress form. Pin the muslin at the CF neckline, 3 above and below the bust tape and waist. Pin the cross grain line at the bust point at princess line.

2 Distribute 12 ease
across the bust line and pin cross mark at the side seam.

BODICE

Shoulder Dart

Neckline Center Front Bust Level Waistline

Side Seam

Form the Shoulder Dart 5 Smooth the muslin from the Drape the Neckline 1 Pin at the intersection of the
center front seam and neckline of the dress form. shoulder neck point to the princess line or midpoint on the shoulder and pin.

6 Smooth the excess muslin from


the bust line pinned at the side seam up over the shoulder towards the princess line and pin.

2 To release the muslin for fitting,


cut a 2 2 square off the corner.

3 Pin and slash down the seam


allowance (perpendicular to the neckline) toward pin.

7 Fold the excess muslin to form


a dart. Pin the fullness at the shoulder.

4 Continue pinning and slashing


along neckline to the shoulder seam. The muslin should lie smoothly across the chest and shoulder, with no stretching or pulling at neckline. 18 ease should be included.

8 Pin the side seam starting at the


arm plate down to the waist.

9 Pin out the fullness from the


shoulder down towards the bust point.

57

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Draping the Bodice


1 3
Bust Point Center Front Waistline

Armhole Side Seam Waist Dart

58

Form the Waist Dart 1 From the side seam at waist,


pin along the waist toward the princess line. Slash the muslin towards the pins. Allow for 1 4 ease along waist.

Mark the Draped Muslin 4 With a pencil, dot along the bottom of the twill
tape along the waist and side seam.

5 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist


and the intersection of the side seam at the waist and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at the shoulder neck point.

2 Smooth and pin from the center


front waist towards the princess line.

6 Dot along the shoulder and neckline. 7 Fold the excess muslin to the front, clearing the
shoulder and side seam for the back drape.

3 Fold the excess muslin to form a


dart. Pin the fullness at the waist and pin the dart towards the bust point.

BODICE

Prepare the Back Muslin


Torn Edge Shoulder Blade Level Bust Line Level Center Back Line

Back length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the waist at Center Back plus 2 .

Back width: Measure from the CB at bust level to the side seam
plus 3 .

Mark the Muslin 1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in the
Center Back line.

2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level tape. Square a


line across the muslin.

3 Measure from the CB to the side seam across the tape. Add
1 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.
Shoulder Blade Cross Mark

4 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.
Mark and square a line for the shoulder blade level.

5 Measure across the shoulder blade level to the arm plate and
cross mark.

Cross Mark for Side Seam at Bust Line Tape

Drape the Back 1 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.
Pin the muslin at the CB neck, shoulder blade, bust line, and waist. Pin the cross grain line, distributing the ease along the tape. Pin across the shoulder blade level, distributing 14 ease to the cross mark at the armhole ridge.

Back Muslin

2 Pin along the back neckline of the dress form, slashing down
the seam allowance toward the pins. Secure at the shoulder seam.

59

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Draping the Bodice


1 2 Form the Shoulder Dart 1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder
neck point to the princess line on the shoulder and pin. Muslin should lay flat across the chest and shoulder with no stretching or pulling at the neckline.

2 Smooth the excess muslin from the


shoulder blade line at armhole up over the shoulder towards the princess line and pin.

3 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a


small dart along the princess line.

4 Measure 3 down from the shoulder


and mark the vanishing point of the dart with a pin.

Mark the Draped Muslin Form the Waist Dart 5 From the side seam at the waist, pin
along the waist toward the princess line. Slash the muslin towards the pins. Allow for 14 ease along the waist.

8 Dot along the bottom of the twill


tape along the waist and side seam.

9 Cross mark on either side of the


dart at the waist and the intersection of the side seam at the waist and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at the shoulder neck point.

6 Smooth and pin from the center back


waist toward the princess line.

60

7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form


a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist and pin the dart along the princess line to 1 above the bust level line.

10 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.

10

BODICE

Join the Front and Back Bodice 1 Fold the leg of the dart closest to the centers
toward the sides and pin them closed. Pin the front over the back at the side seam matching the grain line and cross marks. Pin twill tape around the bodice waistline.

2 Join and pin the front and back shoulders


together with the excess muslin turned out. Trim, leaving 1 seam allowance.

3a

3b

|
3 Fold the front shoulder and pin over the back,
matching the shoulder darts.

61

4 The shoulder length for a size 8 should be 5 .


The darts should be centered on the shoulder seam.

5 Match the shoulder cross marks and dot around


the armhole ridge.

6 Dot along the lower half of the arm plate. 7 Blend the front and back waistline by marking
along tape.

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Trueing the Bodice Muslin


1 1 Remove the muslin from the dress form, keeping
the side seams pinned together. Unpin the shoulder seam.

2 With the darts still pinned closed, measure the


1

front and back waists. They should each include 4 ease. Adjust if necessary.

2 3 Square a line from the center line 1 to begin


trueing the waistline.

3 4 Use a hip curve ruler to continue drawing the


waistline along the dots.

62

5 Unpin and open the dart. Draw in the dart legs


with a straight ruler. For a sloper, the front dart points may end at the bust level line. Measure across the bust line. The front and back should each include at least 12 ease.

5 Sketching the Upper Torso

Bust Line

BODICE

6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1 .

7 Use a curve ruler to draw in the armhole.


It should reflect the curve of the arm plate.

8 8 The back armhole will need to be drawn with


the curve in two parts since its 1 longer than the front.

9 Draw the side seams. 9

10 Pin the shoulder darts closed and draw the


shoulder seam. The back shoulder seams may be slightly curved from the princess line to the neck. Use the curve to draw that in.

63

10
Center Front

Mapping Out Darts on the Torso

Princess Seams

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Trueing the Bodice Muslin


11

12

11 Remove the pins at the mouth of the darts. Slip folded carbon 13a
paper inside the dart and run a tracing wheel across the seam to obtain the jog of the dart.

12 Neckline Pin the shoulders together. Lower the neckline 14 at the center front and widen the neck 18 at the shoulder seam. Use an L-square for the first 14 of the neckline in the front and 1 2 in the back. 13 Draw the new neckline with a curve that reflects the curve of
the originally marked neck.

14 Complete the drape by trimming the seam allowance to 12 at

64

13b

the armhole and neckline. A 1 seam should be allowed for the side seam, shoulder, waist, and centers.

14

BODICE
15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin back together to check the fit on the form. Mark a notch at the screw level on the armholes and a second notch 14 below the notch for the back. Drawing Flats
Steps for drawing a flat free-hand without a flat figure reference. Drawing a flat figure as a guide or reference to establish the correct proportion and fit of a garment.
Tracing Paper or SemiTranslucent Marker Paper

1 Neckline 2 Shoulder and


then Armhole

3 Creating
Matching Side Seams
Flat of Your Garment without the Figure

|
Flat Figure Sketch on Another Page Sketching Only the Garment as it Would Fit

65

4 Planning
Hemline Width

5 Starting
Shoulder Darts
D A Proportions B Sewing Lines C Fit D FInished Flat

6 Finishing
Waistline Darts
A B C

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Making the Bodice Sloper


Muslin to Paper Pattern 1 Mark any additional corrections on the muslin pattern, remove
the pins and press flat.

2 Draw length and cross grain lines on the pattern paper. Place the
muslin on the paper, matching grain lines. Use pattern weights or push pins to hold the muslin in place.

3 Transfer pattern lines onto the paper using a tracing wheel with
a serrated edge. Working on a soft surface such as cork is ideal. Guide the wheel with a ruler for smooth transfer of lines.

4 Allow 1 for the side seam, shoulder, and center seam allowances. The neckline, armhole, and waist have 12
allowance. Extend all seam lines into the seam allowances.

66

Paper Pattern to Sloper 1 Cut oaktag twice the size of the


pattern. Fold it in half and press a sharp, flat folded edge. Draw a cross grain line using an Lsquare. Fold the center seam allowance of the paper pattern under and align with the fold and the cross grain.

2 Transfer all pattern lines to the


oaktag using a needle point tracing wheel.

BODICE

Drawing Darts for This Bodice

3 Draw seam and dart lines with a pencil, using


straight and curve rulers. Mark length grain lines parallel to the center lines.

4 Cut straight lines with a blade. Use scissors or


pattern shears to cut curved lines. Seam allowances are not necessary on slopers.

5 Notch the dart legs, armholes and cross grain


line at side seam.

6 Punch a hole at the apex of the darts. 7 Complete the sloper by punching a large hole
and hanging it on a pattern hook.

Fit

Construction Detail

|
Flat of This Bodice

67

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements


K+ I+ +M +P +A X+ N + L +
5/8

K+ Q + +O I+

N + W + W1
3/8

L + Q + +M +P S1
1 1

+O

+S
+A

H D

G L1 E C

H D

V +

3/4

G L1 E R + C

J+

+ J1 Back N + Z3 L + W + W1
1/2 7/8

+ F Front

+B

J+

+ J1

U Back N +

+ F

T Front

+B

K+ I+
+

K+ Z1 Q + +O I+
+

Z3 L + W + W1 +M Z1 Q + +O

+M +P + Z4 S1

+S
11/4
+ A +

+S
+P S1
+ A +

X+

1/4

X+ + Z4

_ _

+ armplate _ screw Z2 +

_ _

Z2 +

approx. 1

H D

V +

G L1 E

approx. 1

H R + C D

V +

G L1 E R + C

J+

+ J1

U Back

+ F

T Front

+B

J+

+ J1

U Back

+ F

T Front

+B

68

Accurate measurements are required to draft a bodice sloper. Carefully measure the dress form or human figure and record these illustrated measurements. The following pages provide step-by-step drafting instructions.

Measuring the Dress Form

1 Center front
length (base of neck to waist)

2 Bust circumference (fullest


part at bust level). Pin tape parallel to the floor

3 Front neck to
bust level

4 12 bust
circumference CF to CB

BODICE

5 Side seam
(waist to 1 below arm plate)

6 Back neck
to bust level

7 Center back
length (base of neck to waist)

8 Back
shoulder, neck to waist

9 Across back
shoulder (armhole to armhole)

10 Back waist
to shoulder (1 from CB waist to end of shoulder)

11 Back
shoulder (base of neck to end of shoulder)

12 Front
shoulder neck to waist

13 Across
front chest

14 Front
waist to shoulder

69

15 Front
shoulder length

16 Bust point to bust point

17 Waist
circumference

18 Across back

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements


1 A to B = Center Front Length - Extend a straight 13 14 15 16

24 sheet line 2 in from the right side of a 24 of pattern paper 2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neck to the Bust level 1 1 3 C to D = 2 the Bust Circumference plus 1 4 ease 1 1 4 D to E = 2 CD minus 4 5 E to F = Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist) 6 F to G = Side Seam (waist to 1 below armplate). Extend the guideline to the top of the paper 7 G to H = Square a line to the Center Back from G. Extend the line 2 14 toward the front 8 D to I = Bust level to the Back Neck 9 I to J = Center Back Length 10 J to K = Waist to the Shoulder Neck Point Square a line across to the side seam guideline 1 11 K to L = 2 of Across Shoulder measurement plus 1 for dart & ease 12 Square a guideline from L down to H-G.

17

18

19 20

21

Mark L1 where they intersect Square a guideline from J toward F for the back waist Square a guideline from B to F for the front waist J to J1 = 1 J1 to M = Set the ruler at J1 - measure the Back Waist to Shoulder length to the point where it intersects with line L-L1 M to N = Set the ruler at M - measure the Shoulder length plus 1 for dart/ease to the point where it intersects with line K-L B to O = the Center Front Waist to Shoulder Neck point. Square a guideline across to the side seam guideline Draw a parallel guideline 58 to the right of the side seam line from the top towards line G-H B to P = Center Front Waist to Shoulder at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where it intersects the 58 guideline P to Q = Front Shoulder length plus 2 for the dart

Drafting Diagram Steps 1 21

K+ I+

N +

L +

5/8

Q +

+O

+M +P +A

70

H D

G L1 E C

J+

+ J1 Back

+ F Front

+B

BODICE

22 C to R =

2 the Bust Point to Bust Point

30 Mark 1 on each side of line and connect the

23 Square a line from R to the waist guideline.

24

25 26 27

28 29

Measure 1 on either side of the line and draw dart legs. Extend all dart lines 12 past the waist guideline 1 B to T = 4 of the Waist circumference plus 2 34 (the front is 12 wider than the back, plus 1 4 ease, plus 2 for the dart) T to G = Front Side Seam 1 Q to S = 2 the Front Shoulder S to S1 = 2 for the Dart. At the center of the dart extend a guideline down to R. Connect dart legs to R and extend all lines 12 past the shoulder guideline V = Intersection of J1 M with line G-H. Shift 3 4 towards the Center Back and mark V 1 U = Square a line down from V, extending 2 past the waist guideline

31 32 33 34 35 36

dart legs to V - Extend the dart legs 12 past the waist guideline 1 1 1 J to Y = 4 of the Waist minus 2 , plus 2 4 for dart and ease Y to G = Back Side Seam 1 1 N to W = 2 the Shoulder plus 8 ease 3 W W1 = 4 (Dart) From the dart midpoint draw a guideline 3 12 to X Connect the dart legs to X. Extend dart lines 12 beyond the shoulder line

Drafting Diagram Steps 22 36

K+ I+

N + W + W1
3/8

L + Q + +M +P S1
1 1

+O

+S
+A

X+

|
R + C

71

H D

V +

3/4

G L1 E

J+

+ J1

U Back

+ F

T Front

+B

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements


Drafting the Neckline and Armholes
37 Square a horizontal guideline from the Center Front and Back Neck. Square a vertical line up 41 Z2 =
2

3 of Z1 - H-G

42 Square a line from H-G to Z2 43 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the

to the Shoulder Neck Point 1 38 Front Neck: Draw a 1 4 guideline at a 45degree angle to the guideline square. Use a French curve to draw in the neckline A-Q. Keep the Center Front neckline level for 14 before curving 7 39 Back Neck: Draw a 8 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the guideline square. Use a French curve to draw in the neckline I-N. Keep the 1 Center Back neckline level for 2 before curving 1 40 Front Armhole: O to Z1 = 2 the Across Chest measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G

44 45 46 47

guideline square. Draw P-Z2-G using a French curve. 1 Back Armhole: K Z3 = 2 the Across Back measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G 1 Z4 = 2 Z3 - H-G Square a line from H-G to Z4 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the guideline square. Draw the lower armhole Z4-G and the upper armhole Z4-M using a French curve

Drafting Diagram Steps 37 47


K+ I+
+

N + W + W1
1/2 7/8

Z3 L + Z1 Q + +O

+M

+S
+P S1 11/4
+ A +

72
X+ + Z4

1/4

_ _

+ armplate _ screw Z2 +

approx. 1

H D

V +

G L1 E

approx. 1

R +

J+

+ J1

U Back

+ F

T Front

+B

BODICE

Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders


48 Separate the front and back bodice. Fold the waist dart legs closest to the centers towards 52 Match and pin the bodice shoulders together.

the sides. Pin the darts closed. Match and pin the side seam together 49 Square a line 1 from the Center Front and back waist towards the side seam. Use a curve ruler to blend the front and back waists 50 Run a tracing wheel across the waist and draw in the jog of the darts 51 Fold the shoulder darts dart legs closest to the centers towards the sides. Pin the darts closed. Draw a straight line from Q to P for the front and from N to M for the back. Run a tracing wheel across the shoulder and draw in the jog of the darts. Note: The back shoulder can be slightly curved when adjusted on the figure

The back is slightly longer for ease. Blend the front and back neckline and armhole at the shoulder 53 Measure and prepare two pieces of muslin. Transfer the draft to muslin using a tracing wheel and carbon paper. Add seam allowance and cut out. Pin fit and adjust

Drafting Diagram Steps 48 53


K+ I+
+

N + W + W1

Z3 L + Z1 Q + +O

+M +P + Z4 S1

+S
+ A +

X+

73

_ _

Z2 +

H D

V +

G L1 E R + C

J+

+ J1

U Back

+ F

T Front

+B

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements


Completed Bodice Draft

Shoulder

Blade

Level

Bust Level

This sloper is used for drafting styles that include set-in sleeves.

1/2

Adjusted sloper for use in sleeveless styles.

Center Front Bodice

74

Center Front Bodice

Center Back Bodice Center Back Bodice

BODICE

Shaping the Bodice


Bust Line Contour Bodice Length Bodice Dart Position Bodice Fit

Bust Level

The fit on the front of the bodice is designed to contour over the bust apex. The bust apex is the fullest point across the chest. The bust level runs between the front darts.

Full Front

Full Back

The fit on the back of the bodice is constructed to accommodate the subtle contours of the scapula or shoulder blades. The shoulder blade level runs above and parallel to the bust level across the back of the bodice.
Scapula or Shoulder Blades Shoulder Blade Level Back Dart Position

75

Shoulder Blade Level Bust Level

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Drawing Options
Figure Angles Pose

Notice how the direction of the torso, in any pose, affects the contours or curves in the sewing lines, as they turn with the figure.
Form and Function

Posing a flat has the advantage of emphasizing fit: in this example, the look or fit of the bodice as it hugs the chest.
Flat

76

The function of the darts is to make a garment fit or follow the form, in this case, the form of the bust line curve.
Body Planes

Flats give you all of the construction and shape detail without the possible distortion of a posed flat.
Spec

Elongated Fashion Figure

The torso can be divided into four sides. This pose shows off two sides and the front of this square. The turn direction, for this pose, is evident in the sides and affects where you draw the dart lines.

Specs provide the most comprehensive detailing for every aspect in creating a garment, to produce it en masse.

BODICE

Shape

Darts

Posed Flat Finish

Posed The posed flat is usually drawn to emphasize

fit, to highlight form or function. This pose shows off the bustline contouring.

Finish Note: Shading Softens Look of Fabric and Also Accents the Fit or Form Shape Darts Non-Posed Portfolio or Studio Flat

Flat The flat, not posed, focuses on pure shape, con-

struction, and proportion. In this case, the bustline contouring is not emphasized.
Big Overall Measurements Small Interior Measurements Adding Exterior Measurements

77

Shape

Flat Turned into a Spec

Technical Flat Sketch for Production


Spec The spec has to be drawn as a precise, plain

flat to reflect the specifics of its fit to document its measurements for production.