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Description of different techniques used in wet processing to develop Technical Textiles Dr Muhammad Mushtaq Mangat www.mushtaqmangat.org Dec 31, 2012
Mechanical finishes
Calendering
Modification of fabric surface by passing fabric through hot roller
Rollers may be engraved or polished
Purposes of calendering
smoothing the surface of improving the handle of the fabric, a fabric, i.e. softening
increasing the fabric
lustre
consolidation of
Material is passed through a nip of rollers, Rollers may be plane, polished, covered with
Calender parameters
Calender speed (dwell time in nips)
Temperature of calender
Pressure of rollers (pressure per linear
inch)
top rollers
finishes
[1]
Natural fibers Need high pressure to defeat the physical memory and get a new shape, temperature role is less important than pressure Strength of web depends upon the cohesion of fibers, need high pressure to achieve a certain homogeneity
Synthetic fibers Synthetic fibers require the presence of heat to defeat the physical & thermal memory of the fiber High temperature and low pressure are commonly in practice Speed of rollers should be same to avoid any un-wanted luster [2]
Rolling Calender
It provides:
smooth or gloss fabric surface Reshape fibers, make them flatten and increase cohesion by more tightly stack around (nestle effect) Composed of three rollers 100-150 meter per minute for normal fabric and 30-35 for nonwoven Can be run at 3000 PSI Four or five rolls Alternative rolls (polished and filled) The intermediate resilient roll is of wool felt paper, cotton, khaki wool and resilient wool and cotton blends which affords the extension of the webs [2].
wide nip. It will break any stiffness on the surface due to auxiliaries or weaving or knitting
SCHREINER CALENDER
Used to obtain a controlled opacity, a desired softness luster and translucency Light reflection is changed due to changes on surface Pattern is engraved on the heated steel roll Name derived from the pattern which is 260 lines per inch at a 26 degree angle and only .001 of an inch deep It can consolidate the fibers by as much as 4% to 16% Can be used for natural, synthetic and blended or coated fabrics that are both knit and woven or non woven [2]
EMBOSSING CALENDER
Rollers with embossed patterns
Can be used for types of fabrics including
Desired shapes can be achieved by having Other properties are similar to normal calender Can be used for all sorts of fabrics There are forged steel top roll and a filled bottom
CIR CALENDER
The Cir calender is used for glazing and
glossing fabric surfaces using both high temperatures >425 F and high pressures >1500 PLI
Porosity reduction and compaction is done Various types of fabrics can be processed
CIR CALENDER
fabric
Hot rollers are used for paper printing Mostly used for polyester fabric Disperse dyes are used
RESILIENT ROLLS
Also called calender bowls
Made by using high tonnage of pressure;
Raising (Brushing)
Raising is a process in which fabric is brushed with
increased thickness
It gives a hairy surface
More air is trapped and thermal resistance increased
Rotating rolls tted with wires are used
Raising Methods
Hooked or bent steel wires are used for
brushing
Angle, speed and pressure are main factors Number of rotating rollers, width of rollers
[1]
Shearing
A process in which piles of fabric are cut to
phenomenon
during process
Very common use Makes fabric more stable and minimize the
shrinkage
[2]
Sueding (Peaching)
Sueding Technique
Sueding
To give a peach look
Brush or zero sand paper is used
Improve hand feel
Better thermal resistance
Currently much demanded and in practice
Heat setting
To make a stable fabric
Used to ensure that there will be no change
in dimensions
Only used for synthetic fibers Required temperature is above the softening
Heat-setting mechanisms
1. chain stiffness
2. strong dipole links
3. hydrogen bonds
4. crystallization [1]
Influencing factors
Temperature, Moisture, stress. PET fabric is passed through stenter at 180-190 C for 30-60 seconds Sudden cooling effect, called decatizing is done for better setting Little moisture helps for better heat setting In general heat setting temperature is with in 20-2040 C of the fiber melting point. Hold at this temperature under tension for approximately 20 s. Cool fabric before removing tension After heat setting shrinkage should be less than 1% [1]
Transition temperatures
Glass transition temperature:
Molecules tarts moving in amorphous region
Substance starts changing from a glassy solid
Melting point
Thermal energy increases than holding
energy
Pleated Fabric
Permanent Pleats
To give better look
Increase usability
Some special purpose fabric is made
Common for ladies clothing
Bags are produced for more space
Chemical Treatment
Fire retarding Water repellant Stain proof Ant bacteria, moth proof Self cleaning Flavored Anti pilling Anti slippery
High Wicking
Wetting agents are used to increase wicking
Towels, T shirts, shorts are treated with wetting Applied on exhaust and padding
Anti-static finish
PE is much popular to reduce the static
effect
Anti-pilling finish
Mostly enzymes are used to remove
protruding fibers
Non-slip finishes
To have better grip
Rough surface is developed
Silica gel is commonly used
Gives a crispy hand feel
For better safety, becoming popular in every Many laws are being formulated to have Fire-
Two techniques: Application of chemicals on fabric surface Making changes in fiber to make them fire retardant
Anti-microbial finish
Microbes are the tiniest creatures, Cannot seen by the naked eye Bacteria, Fungi, Algae and viruses are part of this group Bacteria are uni-cellular organisms, it grows rapidly under wet and warm conditions [3] Ant-microbial finishes are required to improve safety and comfort Brominated phenols, quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-silver and tin compounds, are used Pad or exhaust methods are used
Conti
It controls the odor due to bacteria reproducing Finishes will stop bacteria reproducing It will minimize the amount of odor Stops cross infection by pathogenic micro organisms and control the infestation by microbes Arrest arrest metabolism in microbes in order to reduce the formation odour Protects the textile products from staining, discoloration and quality deterioration. [3]
[3]
To make clothing cleaner permanently Possible by a polymer film of polyglycicidyl methacrylate sprinkled with silver nanoparticle Not actually self-cleaning High resistance to dirt Concept is based on the lotus plant Lotus leaves are well-known for their ability to selfclean due to repelling properties of water and dirt Some water to rinse away dirt and stains, but cleaning will be quicker [5]
Lotus Leaf
References
[1] Hall, M.E., Finishing of technical textiles, in Handbook of Technical Textiles A.R. Horrocks, Anand, S. C., Editor 2000, Woodhead Publishing Ltd Cambridge. [2] Gunter, D.S., Perkins, B. F. . THE BASIC MECHANICS OF CALENDERING AND EMBOSSING NONWOVEN WEBS. 2012; Available from: http://www.idspackaging.com/common/paper/Paper_320/calendering_wp.pdf. [3] Aravin, P. , and Myvizhirajeswari, G. SILVER BASED ANTI ?MICROBIAL FINISHING ON COTTON [4] Tanveer Malik, T. and Nogja, S., Goyal, P. Self cleaning textile - an overview http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/4/389/self-cleaning-textile-anoverview2.asp [5] http://www.technovelgy.com/ct/Science-Fiction-News.asp?NewsNum=271