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WRITTEN BY: SOLOMON ADUGNA (B Sc.

in Textile engineering)

JUNE 2012

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Table of Contents

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Table of Contents .................................................................................................................................. 1 Fabric analysis ...................................................................................................................................... 3 1.2 Specified instruments used in the analysis of fabric are as follows .................................................... 3 1.3 Analysis of face and back of the fabric ............................................................................................... 3 1.5 Finding the design of the fabric: ......................................................................................................... 4 1.6 Finding the repeat of design: ............................................................................................................... 5 1.7. Finding the warp and weft layout: ..................................................................................................... 5

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WEAVING PREPARATORY SECTION ............................................................................................ 7 2.1 Sectional Warping Machines .............................................................................................................. 7 2.2. Warp drawing for sectional warping .................................................................................................. 8 2.3. The choice of warp processing: ......................................................................................................... 9 2.4. EFFICIENT OPERATION OF WARPING MACHINE ................................................................... 9 2.5. SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE ............................................................................................ 11

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Sizing section ...................................................................................................................................... 14 3.1 The process of sizing ........................................................................................................................ 15 3.3 Drawing-in for sectional warping ................................................................................................... 16 3.4 The process of drawing in sectional warp reed: ................................................................................ 16

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WEAVING SECTION ........................................................................................................................ 19 4.1 Weaving Operation ........................................................................................................................... 21 4.2 Types of defects that might occur on fabric weaving ....................................................................... 23

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DESCRIPTION OF WOVEN FABRICS, TYPES AND BASIC FEATURES ................................. 25

6. FACTORS AFFECTING THE FABRIC STRUCTURE AND FEATURES ........................................ 33 6.3. Weaving ........................................................................................................................................... 34 7. Patterning parameters.............................................................................................................................. 37 7.2 Color Effect....................................................................................................................................... 37 7.4 The projection lines........................................................................................................................ 37 8. Fabric Geometry ................................................................................................................................. 41 8.1. Theories of basic repeat ................................................................................................................... 41 8.2 Weaving operation ............................................................................................................................ 41 8.3 Gray fabric inspection section........................................................................................................... 43 8.5 Woven fabric defects ........................................................................................................................ 44 9. Finishing the Process .............................................................................................................................. 48 9.1. Pre-Treatment .................................................................................................................................. 48 9.2. Coloring ........................................................................................................................................... 49 9.3. Finishing Processes .......................................................................................................................... 49 1

9.4 End use .............................................................................................................................................. 50 9.5 Fashion and Market Opportunities .................................................................................................... 50 9.6. Cost .................................................................................................................................................. 50 10 MATERIALS AND METHODS .................................................................................................... 52 10.1. Sample formation ........................................................................................................................... 52 10.2. Fabrics samples and their Features ................................................................................................ 52 10.3. The Tests ........................................................................................................................................ 53 11. SOFTENING TREATMENT .............................................................................................................. 59 11.1. Purpose of softening treatment ...................................................................................................... 59

1. Fabric analysis
Most of the time fabrics are produced according to the sample taken from the customer or from the available catalog. Exactly similar fabric is required in pattern or direction of constriction as the customer order. For example, to make a full analysis of this case, first the desired fabric design studies and calculations are required.

1.1.

Analysis of woven fabrics:

During fabric analysis the followings will be determined, Face and back of the fabric Analysis of weft and warp directions Yarn type Determination of the repeat of the warp and weft of the fabric Pattern determination the pattern Drawing in plans Calculation of the weft and warp crimp ratio Dyeing and finishing properties and GSM of fabric

1.2 Specified instruments used in the analysis of fabric are as follows


1. The magnifying glass or loop 2. Electronic balance 3. Drawing paper 4. A piece of wood or fastener 5. Open and dark cardboard 6. A sharp pointed tweezers 7. 8. 9. Small scissors Various types and number yarn Ruler

10. Calculator

1.3 Analysis of face and back of the fabric


We can identify which side is the face and back of the fabric. Finished side of a fabric is generally better surface fibers feel. The following points will help in analyses of face & back of fabric:
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Cut a fabric in a proper manner. In a comparison of fabric pattern between face & back, the face fabric is clearer. If the fabric has two different kinds of yarns woven, expensive and good quality yarn of the fabric is used on face.

If the fabric is dyed the color effects are exposed more in face.

1.4 Finding warp and weft direction:


A. The example is easy, if you have the edge to find a warp direction, take the whole surface of the fabric as the same materials and the edge is usually more robust than the other surface. Sometimes the edge has a different weave, and sometimes the brand is written on the edge of the fabric. B. Most of the times lines are in the warp direction. Sometimes the lines can be obtained by using different weaves. C. If the warp yarn probably used is wool, the warp way of the fabric looks like more cyclic. D. One of the other is two-fold yarns of twisted yarns are warp yarns, and generally strong. E. If one of the warp yarns is two-fold yarns, the other warp yarns must only be two-fold. Worsted fabrics are used in particular double-layer warp. F. Plain fabrics are usually extended in the warp direction. G. Generally, the thicker yarns used is weft. H. The fabric is needed to make the necessary numerical values in the same way. I. Warp yarns are generally more uniform and parallel to each other. In addition, traces of the comb can also be seen in the warp direction. J. Warp is often more twist.

K. Structure in all respects will be more arranged by elongation of a fabric rag warp way. L. Drawing in plan conforms to some standard formats can be found in the warp direction. M. Gabardine type fabrics, the warp is easily dominant than weft yarns.

1.5 Finding the design of the fabric:


Design of the fabric is known to be presented before proceeding to the analysis process. If you are using only a magnifying glass or loop to identify mesh weave, make analyzing of the mesh format or at least try to estimate. Mesh size is determined after finding of mesh analysis. Analysis of small samples of woven fabric, however, before we cut the fabric for example by
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requiring the withdrawal of the yarn or fabric that does not lead to a reduction should be performed prior to analysis. In this case the edges are cut before the fabric is properly inserted into a geometric shape and the edges caliper is measured. Then weigh the cloth to scales GSM of the fabric. Area is calculated by dividing weight in terms of square fabric weight on GSM basis. Fabric weight is measured in this way and accounts for an important feature that has to be done carefully. In the direction of the warp and weft of the fabric of two intersecting GSM, after finding the edge of the fabric yarns remove some 3-4 mm and make a fringe width. Leave the upper edges of the appropriate edges.

1.6 Finding the repeat of design:


Weft and warp density of 1 cm areas is raised and loop most accurately called a magnifying glass. During this process the rectangular loop edges are placed parallel to the direction of the warp and weft of the fabric edges over 1 cm length of yarn which measured. If you are knitting mixed yarns, it makes much harder to be measured, then the appropriate edge of the fabric with tweezers or a ruler with a magnifying glass, yarns are placed parallel on the edge of the covering fabric and counted part. This is a difficult task to do, at that time the two lines marked on the fabric yarns parallel to the yarn count will be taken in the break after measuring the distance between focal.

1.7. Finding the warp and weft layout:


After making a lot of fringe at the edge of the fabric of two fabrics in the direction of the warp and weft yarns, in the warp and weft design to determine the size and color design, it is possible to determine the order of arrangement. Reinforced, extra-stranded and double-layer fabric may be very difficult. This is where the yarn withdrawal difficult and should carefully drawn.

1.8. Finding through the analysis of the pattern:


By using a pair of tweezers pulling yarns in a row to the left with squared paper which intersections are passed in pencil. Area on the crossroads where the warp yarn cross-mark written above the crossroads in its first order of the warp yarn in the weft direction, this process is continued until repeats itself. During this process by specifying the color or warp yarns of different properties when convenience design are provided. Then again, the direction of the warp
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point in the pattern structure is decided on paper.

1.9. Determining Crimp ratio:


Interface for both the weft and warp yarns, fabrics, and therefore counter is then removed to be able to take from the label fold end, as well as across the wound up. Finishing operations will be more the result of this tensile fabric and finished by taking a little more shortened label fold. Fabric is woven of fibers with lengths that appear dignified rate of shortening of the length of bent or which is called crimp ratio.
TERM ORDER FORM

PRODUCTION PLANNING (TERM) YARN STORE

DESIGN SECTION (MANUFACTURING ORDERS)

WEAVING PREPARATION DEPARTMENT (WARPING, DRAWING)

SIZING

DRAWING IN

WOVEN CLOTH GRAY

Fig 1 Procedure of fabric production up to weaving section.

2. WEAVING PREPARATORY SECTION


Spinning mill delivers yarns to weaving preparatory section to organize the yarns economically and as per the design needed and this process is called weaving preparation process. A desired number of warp yarns, beam width, length and number of yarns in the ends can be determined. The weft of the woven fabric depends on the weft yarns inserted while weaving process. If the yarn properties touch the desired level, the preparation room works efficiently.

2.1 Sectional Warping Machines


A section shifts on the warp yarns because the conical drum machines are great. Warping capacity is approximately 10 times greater than plain warp.

Bobbin

Yarn sensor

Reed

Drum

Fig 2 Sectional Warping and its creel

Fig 3 Sectional warping machines


Warp winding principle

2.2. Warp drawing for sectional warping


Usually before drawing warp yarns, setting of tensioners is done and more relaxed warp is ensured to be warped. Warp threads wrapped around the beam called yarn drum according to the length required.
Warp winding principle

Cone winding principle Fig 4 Sectional warping drawing

2.3. The choice of warp processing:


- In general, cone warping, warp-repeat prepared by a mixed color. - 95% of a double-decker cone warp yarns are prepared because there is no need of filling the cone. - warping from small tapered parts - If the other conditions are convenient large portion are from direct warping The speed of the sectional warping is lower than direct warping. Cone takes longer time to replace the warpers beam. Weaving preparatory, in sectional warping process, warp yarns arranged in layer form. Arrangement: Weaving preparatory process to separate warp treads layer, warp wind should be aligned. Each warp thread prepared by a single layer. When the machine stops, and a new one attached to each layer instead.

Fig 5 Creel

2.4. EFFICIENT OPERATION OF WARPING MACHINE


- Cages work should be as full as possible Arrangement: -cage work should be as full as possible.

Pullet Cages - Winding coils in standard weights used to reduce time to change. - The part which allowed lengthening the coils should be used until the end. 2.4.1 Ways of avoiding the possibility of defects 2.4.1.1 Creel 1) Load on the creel the desired number of cones, and check the label of the same colored yarns inserted. 2) Check and control the number, color and set of the divisions whether the homogeneous or mixture of different fibers are arranged together. 3) Check and control the bobbin arrangement applied in order to continue production according to order given. 4) Check the yarn tension settings whether it is loose or tight. 5) Count the number of warp whether less or more than the number of coils. 6) Check the warp yarn breaks whether or not connected to the tip. 7) If all of these processes are correct, check whether the warp yarns cross each other in order to prepare required repeat. 2.4.1.2 DRUM: 1) Check the status of the machine whether the applied procedure is according to the orders given to the manufacturer. 2) Check the accurate measuring of the metering roller to control the length of the warp yarn. 3) Check the setting of the comb compass. 4) Cross-check whether intake may arise during the cross-bums. 5) Control the width of the warp wrapped drum to check whether the desired width attained. 2.4.1.3 Beam: 1) Beam, the tension of the drum is connected to the bands. 2) According to beam setting control the transverse width of the desired warp.

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Fig 6 beam

2.5. SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE


In sectional warping equal length of yarn is first wound in small sections or sheets on a drum. Then from the drum it is transferred to the beam. By this process we directly get the weavers beam. This is a two stage method and is used for making fancy fabrics. Creel Drum Beam (Weavers Beam) Working Principle of Sectional Warping: 1. Sectional warping is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics. 2. In this case sections of the warp which may contain up to 1000 ends are first wound onto a drum tapered with a given cone angle. 3. So cross wound sections are combined on the drum & thus each layer of warp contains the same number of ends on the drum. 4. Then the warp threads altogether are transferred onto a weavers beam by unwinding the drum. 5. In this method the warp threads are not necessarily processed in sizing

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Features of Sectional Warping 1. This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric. 2. We directly obtain weavers beam from this process 3. As sizing is not done, so multi-ply yarns or yarns which do not require sizing are used 4. Small amount of yarn is required to produce the weavers beam 5. Sectional warping is used to produce a warp beam with a greater member if ends 6. The production is less in sectional warping 7. The yarn tension is less uniform Sectional warping machine data Warp repeats = 48 treads / cm Fabric Width = 150cm (without selvage) Number of warp ends in the fabric = 150 x 48 = 7200 Warp treads (excluding selvage) the actual number of warp threads = 7200 + 96 = 7296 NOTE: The alignment of selvage treads in terms of color 2 x 48 threads are selected. 7200 number of ends; 7200/16 = 450 treads in one section The total number of threads required for each color will be as follows: 5496 for the black threads (450 treadsx12 + 2 x 48 (for selvage threads) 1800 for the white threads (450 treads x 4) The warp yarn length = Order x warp shrinkage = 27500mt Nm = L / G (which is length in meter and weight in gram) The warp yarn weight = 2370, 23kg Weft yarn weight = 1339.63 kg The number of warp treads = 791 The number of weft treads = 447 Weights of yarn required for each color in the warp color repeat; For black 2371 x (75/100 =) 1779kg White to 2371 x (25/100) = 593kg Weights of yarn required for each color in the weft color repeat; For gray 1340 x (50/100) = 670kg
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For white 1340 x (50/100) = 670kg Creel capacity = 500 bobbins Ordered length = 25000mt Conical winding drum capacity = 3000mt We have to solve the warp yarn length = 25 000 x 1.10 = 27500mt The required number of weavers beam = 27500/3000 = 10 beams The number of repeats at a time of creel arrangement = 500/16 = 31 repeats Section 1. 48 threads for selvage Section 2. 496 threads (31 repeats) Section 3. 496 threads (31 repeats) : : Section 14. 496 threads (31 repeats) Section 15. 496 threads (31 repeats) Section 16. 256 threads (16 repeats) Section 17. 48 threads for selvage The yarn length that should be wound in a section = 3000mt x 17 x 10 = 510 000mt on a beam. The weight of a single warp yarn on a beam; 510000 / (1000 x 50 x 1.693) = 6, 025 6.025 / 2 must be = 3kg. Machine speed (winding speed of conical drum) = 900mt / min Transfer rate to beam = 70mt / min Efficiency = 43% Machine operating time = 36 hours 58 minutes Setting width = 50 and width of the reed is = 11.35 is required to be set; The number of thread that will pass through a teeth of reed = 8 Note: See calculations for all calculations of section warping of all the data given above!

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3. Sizing section
To protect the warp yarns against mechanical impact that would be exposed during the weaving of the warp threads. The warp yarns immersed in the size paste together and increase the strength of the yarn surface coated with a film of a variety of sizing solution and the proper chemical composition of the adhesive property of a viscous liquid.
Drying section Paste immersion section Weavers beam winding Warpers beam creel

Fig 7 Warp sizing diagram

Fig 8 Warp sizing machine

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3.1 The process of sizing


Sizing is the process of ensuring the penetration of the liquid into the thread under suitable conditions to make the warp yarn withstand the stress during weaving. It is the process which applied to single-ply yarns. If the warp yarn did not sized the end breakage rate will be high. To get the expected best results of sized yarns for staple fiber spinning system type can be continuous, not for long staple spinning and also important in atmospheric conditions in the activity by slashing substances. The sizing material selected can create faults during weaving and then also negatively influence the quality of treatment processes or can make it very difficult.

3.2 Sizing solution requirements


Sizing material embroidered thread and make the handling easy Sizing agent must have the ability to create the yarn surface adhesion and film coated. Sizing agent should be flexible. Ideally, a sizing agent must be transparent and colorless. It must be Non-degrading to the yarn. It must be compatibility with equipment. It must be easily removal, if necessary. Provides good fabric characteristics if not removed. Least amount of dusting-off during weaving. Cost of the size ingredients must be less. It should not modify the tone of colored warps. No skimming tendency. Easily prepared. Lack of odor. No beam blocking. Compatible with other ingredients. Neutral PH. Insensitive to high heat. Rapid drying.

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3.3 Drawing-in for sectional warping


This is process of spreading and passing a sheet of the warp threads through the comb. Place on a loom or a separate warp beam, warp strength should be in accordance with the process of drafting, the process of drawing in heald wires. What is important here is, depending on the drafting and drafting plan carefully make the order. Otherwise, skipping a line would spoil and damage the structure of pattern which can lead to the defected fabric. Healds of dobby machines moves the warp threads yarn passes upper and lower points, the healds attached to the frame must be equal to the up and down, giving the space required for the insertion of the weft yarn. Each heald frame is assembled to the dobby and carried out the up and down movement the warp yarns. Drawing-in plan for sectional warping is done on the basis of the repeats of patterns to be woven. The basic rule to make the plan for drawing-in is the same to drawing-in for warp repeat in weaving.

Fig 9 drawing in and drafting plan respectively.

3.4 The process of drawing in sectional warp reed:


Warp yarns passed through the specified number of tooth of reed like the process of drawing-in reed of loom. Through each teeth of the combing reed the warp yarn passes and the width of the fabric depends on the repeats of the section. The repeat depends on the number of comb teeth selected. At the same time, the sheet of the warp yarns passes through the wax. Weaving
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preparation room has 1 automatic drawing-in machine. This is directed to the production machine operates with the computer. All information is entered into the computer of drawing in machine. This is the information of fabric manufacturing orders. 3.4.1 Fracture (herringbone-cut) drawing: Herringbone broken twill, such as braids, braid repeat, an axis in the right or left to default a specific order is repeated, the same movements. Drawing yarns according to the principle that the same movement with braided broken repeat way consists of a schematic drawing notation. 3.4.2 Group drawing This is carried out separately in groups by drawing together depending on a type of weave design. Repeats of very large patterns, patterns used successively repeated the same movements in different directions.

Fig 10 group drawing

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3.4.3 Random drawing Wide range of groupings such as crepe yarns did not allow repeating the same movement used in pattern-repeat method of drawing. Principle can be the same as Harket healds frames that are arranged according to the same yarns. 3.4.4 Double-layer (two ways) drawing Fabrics that require two or more warp beam, warp speeds are different in terms of reinforced fabrics for warp yarns to reduce friction. It leaves a gap between two different warp yarns as shown in the two rows of the figure.

Fig 11 Double-layer (two ways) drawing

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4. WEAVING SECTION
Weaving is the process of interlacing warp and weft yarn at 90 to make a woven textile. Basic Mechanisms in weaving machine In order to interlace warp & weft threads to produce a fabric, the following weaving mechanisms are necessary on any type of loom: 1. Primary mechanism 2. Secondary mechanism 3. Auxiliary mechanism Primary Mechanism These are fundamental or essential mechanisms. Without these mechanisms, it is practically impossible to produce a fabric. The primary motions can further be divided as shedding, picking and beat up motions. The shedding opens the warp sheet into layers to facilitate passage of shuttle. The picking motion causes the shuttle carrying weft to be propelled from one end of loom to another. The beat up motion lays the previously laid weft to the fell of the cloth. It is for the reason that these mechanisms are called Primary mechanisms. The primary mechanisms are 3 in number. 1. Shedding mechanism 2. Picking mechanism 3. Beat-up mechanism Secondary Mechanism These mechanisms are next in importance to the primary mechanisms. If weaving is to be continued, these mechanisms are essential. The secondary motions comprise of take up and let off motions. The take up motion helps to wound the cloth on to the cloth roller and also influences the pick density in the cloth. The let off motion helps to let the warp from the weavers beam at a uniform rate thus maintaining the warp tension constant throughout the weaving process. So they are called Secondary mechanisms. They are

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1. Take-up motion 2. Let-off motion Auxiliary Mechanism To get high productivity & good quality of fabric, additional mechanisms, called Auxiliary mechanisms are added to a plain power loom. The auxiliary mechanisms are useful but not absolutely essential. The auxiliary motions consist of the warp stop motion, weft stop motion and warp protector motion. The warp stop motion is used to stop the loom in the event of warp breakages. This is necessary to prevent fabric defects such as missing ends and floats. The weft stop motion is used to stop the loom in the event of weft exhaustion or weft breakages. This is necessary to prevent missing weft threads called cracks, in the fabric. The warp protector is used to prevent multiple warp thread breakages in the event of shuttle getting trapped in the middle of the warp sheet. These are listed below: a. Warp protector mechanism b. Weft stop motion c. Temples d. Brake e. Warp stop motion 1. Winding the warp beam and the mechanism of warping: The warp yarn wound on the weavers beam. 2. Warp Bridge: Warp beam perpendicular to the warp yarns and woven in this way to give a horizontal element (product). 3. Lamella: Dropping instantly stops the machine element in all of the warp yarn breakage. Each warp yarn passes through separate lamellae. 4. Insertion of weft and weft transporters Weft yarn of the warp threads passing through the shed formed by the shedding mechanism and

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which make the formation of fabric. 5. Beating up motion: After insertion of the weft carrying the weft yarn to the fabric fell and beating through the line of weft fabric. Width of the beating up reed, at the same time, warp and weft fabric synchronized well with the repeat determining element. 6. Templates: These prevent the fraying of woven fabric while contraction and beating up it also prevents the breakage of warp yarns.

Fig 12 temples 7. Fabric taking up: The woven fabric taken a little away from the weaving area and then down to the taking up roller. 8. Roller Fabrics and Fabric Tension Regulator: Woven fabric drawn at a constant speed which is determined by the desired frequency of the weft insertion.

4.1 Weaving Operation


In weaving process, the team can begin loading or installing type of change that will warp beam process needs to be done. Warp beam, brought in front of the machine. But before we proceed the necessary adjustments must be made for the new article After registering necessary datas for the dobby computer, such as weaving design, the warp unwinding speed, rapier transfers rate, beat cycle, length of fabric woven the machine is ready.

4.1.1 The points to be considered while tying process:


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Check whether the edge is equal to the number of treads. Missing or extra yarns on fabric surface is controlled. Give attention to top and bottom that it is connected to a single or double sheet of yarn. Check whether tied yarns can reopen. Number of warp treads that are on weavers beam and on empty cylinder should be the same. The empty beams should be filled with an equal number of warp yarns from the weavers beam. Weaving is the process for the continuous and uniform consisting of warp yarns and woven fabric to be referred to as synchronization with take up action to take place. To obtain a smooth fabric surface, the warp yarns and weft yarns woven in a periodic way in cm depending on the frequency of the weft inserted. This rotation slowly, and over the warp wrapped around the beams periodically released. During weaving operation the warp yarn is under certain tension. There are three reasons for this. Fabric take up Beat percussion Shedding devices can be counted as the third cause.

Fig 13 Tying machines Weaving machines can be dobby or jacquard shedding systems according to the system of shedding operation of weaving machines. 4.1.2 Dobby: it is used in weaving machines to create a shed, which moves the shed frames release device for this purpose.

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4.1.3 REED: it beats the inserted weft to fabric fell. Major duties: To determine the repeat of the weft thread Weaving of the warp yarns To guide weft carriers. It presses the inserted weft to fabric fell. Space between two wires of comber tooth10 cm. Smoothening of the onset fabric 4.1.4 Temple: Woven fabric, warp and cross the line from the comb used to keep as close as possible rate template rotating part called the cylindrical pin. Rotatable template on the shaft or pin structure of needle rings mounted on the shaft and the rotatable part is obtained by a single pin.

4.2 Types of defects that might occur on fabric weaving


Fabric defects are generally composed of three different ways: 1. Because of the defected yarn 2. Due to workers negligence and lack of enough knowledge. 3. Machine maintenance and improper adjustments 4.2.1 Defects inspected in woven fabric: 1.Broken yarns: In weft yarn during the transfer from the rapier donor hook to rapier receiver hook, if there is no enough tension it deform s and weft yarn tension or rapier receiver hook is more than tension of shed opened that thread into the fabric are running away. Solution: Adjusting the rapier tension and compression 2.Eccentric Weft: Rapier donor hook after transfer to rapier receiver hook, yarn shed opened again escapes into the fabric fell. This is called the eccentric weft. Solution: degree of rapier weft yarn release time should be well-adjusted. 3. Double Weft: Weft yarns rapier, it guides and allows the weft yarn transmission to fabric fell. If you are passing two yarns rather than one it results in this defects. Solution: weft manual settings should be checked. 4. Beads: Twisted, especially heavy products, the heavy weft yarn, if it has not tendency a
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mouthpiece, the yarn has a tendency to curl. Thus, creates small protruded yarn occurs. Solution: Weft regulator winding speed constantly reduced. 5. Accumulation of weft: Solution: Replacement of weft treads. 6. Common / uncommon: warp and weft direction is greater or less than the desired repeat. Solution: rapier shooting gear change, which sets the frequency of the weft thread. Fabric takesqueeze rollers may be worn out. 7. Thick and thin places: warp and weft direction is greater or less than the desired repeats. Solution: rapier shooting gear change, which sets the repeat of the weft thread. 8. Pattern defects: failure in a repeat of weft and warp. 9. Crush-Holes: Friction with frame during the movement together with the warp and weft to pass through a few warps occurs. Solution: Hopping is done drawing. 10. Oil contamination: During maintenance the team may touch the product without their dirty hand or instruments. 11. Drawing-in defects: incorrect implementation of the report consists of a mistake or node. 12. Reed mark: Caused by the deformation of reed wires or improper drawing-in. 13. Tight / loose: it caused by different a number of tension in a warp yarns 14. Miss-ends: This defect occurs when the thread is broken by weavers during warp maintenance operation. 15. Eccentric Warping: Warp machine at the time break is caused by cessation of late. Solution: The clutch settings are checked, the degree of coupling is checked. 16. Cracks: This defects occurs when more than one weft miss. 17. Binding together: This defect appears when there have been greater or less than the amount of sizing. 18. Reed mark: worn out surface of the reed makes a trace across length of warp. Solution: Replacing the reed.

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5.

DESCRIPTION OF WOVEN FABRICS, TYPES AND BASIC FEATURES

In this section we will look about woven fabric, structure, usage and their classification. And also we describe about the types of woven fabrics which provides information about basic features. Finally, all the basic features of woven fabrics are described.

5.1 Woven Fabric


Human life, textile ranges from fashion to home textile, industrial textiles and the textiles of various fillers and substrates used in the construction industry, widely spread in the textile industry in general can be divided into three main groups. According to the production methods, textile fabrics can be, 1. Woven fabrics 2. Knitted Fabrics 3. Non-woven fabrics Milling, needling or gluing processes of textile fibers to form a tissue obtained from non-woven fabrics, as well as like hand knitting needle or mist formed in knitted structures obtained by connecting loops and fabric with each other. May be argued, however, the intensity of production in different system and the most important type is woven fabrics. The share of textiles in total textile production,'' the two most important division of the spinning system'' based on woven fabrics. The confluence of two yarn system according to certain rules by making a right angle to the longitudinal yarns in woven fabrics consisting of textile called warp and weft. The resulting yarn is'' binding'' takes its name from the intersections.

5.2 Classification of woven fabrics


Woven fabrics can be classified in many ways. We can classify under the following headings according to the end use of woven surfaces. 1. Fabrics used as garments: the purpose may be simple or complex structures and we can use all textile fibers. 2. Fabrics used in interiors: These products include upholstery, drapery and mats. 3. Industrial purpose fabrics: Examples of these filters, fire fighting hoses, belts, etc According to the raw material used fabrics classification can be made as follows: 1. Wool Fabrics 2. Cotton fabrics
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3. Silk fabrics 4. Synthetic fabrics Classifications of this type of fabric design work only becomes meaningful and beneficial. Woven fabrics of raw material composition or use of a classification is made to introduce the purpose and method of making fabric, instead of structural. Based on a form suitable for classification: 1. Normal Woven Fabrics i) Single storey simple structures (1) basic weave woven fabrics (2) Basic lattices woven fabrics ii) Extra yarn structures (1) Extra warp structures (2) Extra weft structures (3) extra weft and warp-structures iii) Reinforced structures (1) Weft reinforced fabric (2) Warp reinforced fabric iv) Multi-layer structures (1) Double layer fabric (2) Three or more layer fabrics 2. Woven Fabrics of complex structures i) Woven fabrics rotary power system (1) Gas braided structures (2) Leno braided structures ii) Embroidered structures (1) Lappet system woven fabrics (2) Swivel system woven fabrics iii) structures obtained by tying loosely to another (1) Towels

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(A) Single face towels (B) Double-faced towels 2) Velvet (A) The weft velvets Corduroy straight weft Corduroy Bicycles (B) The warp velvets Single Rod System woven velvets the face-to-face weaving carpets Wilton system (3) Machine Carpets (A) carpet Wilton Wire Rod Wilton Carpets System Face to Face Woven Wilton Carpets System (B) Ax minster carpets Three-Axis Structures Three-Dimensional Structures Narrow fabrics The handicraft Normal handicraft Kirkitli fabrics (A) hand-made carpets (B) Carpet and Other Structures

5.3. Basic Properties of Woven Fabrics


It is used as a textile fabric material, in other words the function of a smooth surface which, thickness, flexibility, durability, hiding properties, such as basic, as well as both the surface appearance, operating conditions and determining the behavior of a number of other properties.
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These properties result from fabric material and structural properties of complex functions. According to a particular intended use of the desired fabric structure, the requirement material for that purpose is; suitable raw materials, market and seasonal conditions offered, tasting of the appropriate conditions, the size of the other, on the one hand it suitability to carry out the purpose, on the other hand to the company offering the highest profitability of the economic values. 5.3.1. Chemical Properties It has the resistance to chemicals during the production and use of a fabric such as combustion and chemical features. This is directly related to the chemical properties of fibers used in making cloth. The ability to be dyed, color fastness, and both the fiber, as well as other important feature is about the chemical structure of the dyestuff. Extraction is defined as the moisture absorption of the fabric or the fabric raw material composition due to water absorption feature and due to the chemical structure of the fibers. Sweat to attract garment fabrics, terry fabrics, such as pooling the water is an important feature to take over. Best lures for cotton fiber, water, towels are woven with cotton yarn. Also, synthetic fibers which have good water absorption characteristic can be used. In such fabrics it is important; if the fabric have the ability to draw off water and to carry some amount of water. The ability to draw off water, after the fabric is dipped vertically into the water, the water in the fabric upward propagation velocity can be determined by determining a quantity of fabric contaminated. This can be achieved through the removal of dirty by washing or dry cleaning. Therefore, fabrics must withstand these processes. 5.3.2. Physical Properties The physical properties of fiber, yarn and fabric is affected by the structure of the complex features. These are a number of attributes such as characteristic of a different chemical property. These structural characteristics, mechanical properties, sensory characteristics, including permeability and conductivity properties can be examined in four groups. 5.3.2.1. Structural Features These features include; the fabric width, length, whether woven or knitted, type of fibers or yarns forming the fabric and the thickness of the fabric. These features are also known in the technical characteristics of the fabric that can substantially affect other physical properties. Appearance of the fabric, thickness, softness, varies depending on the selected weave and raw material. A repeat of the warp and weft yarns per unit length can
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be expressed in numbers. As the weight of the yarn in the fabric as well the repeat increases the fabric becomes more stiff and strong. The dimensions generally determined by the dimensions of the intended use of the fabric. These lengths are expressed as the raw and finished products. Of these, particularly the important feature is the width of the fabric. Thickness of fabric is important for permeability, resistance and impact properties. Fabric thickness depends on number of yarn, and strands flatness or textured. In addition on the repeat and type of weaving. 5.3.2.2. Mechanical Properties The fabric width, length, or fabric under the forces affecting the behavior that determines the direction which perpendicular to the plane of the elongation at break, tensile strength, tear strength, bursting strength, flexural strength, seam strength, flexibility, abrasion resistance, iron retention, wrinkle-like features are known as mechanical properties. Tensile Strength: Tensile testing is a test applied to textile to depict, the largest force applied to the test sample. Elongation at break, tensile strength of a sample under test, elongation at maximum force applied to the test sample. Tear Strength: An additional torque can be applied to fabric to turn around a particular axis; the maximum force required is an expression of the effect of tearing strength. So, to start a tear in the fabric under the designated runs, it continues to resist or force required propagate the action. Tearing strength is related to the structure of fabric. High strength fibers fabrics exhibit a high resistance to tearing force applied. If you easily modify the tearing strength of yarns in the fabric it will not keep in touch consecutively, but rather break the bundles of fibers together. Sewing strength: one or more of the sewn fabric formed by suturing sewing thread through the fabric. To break the connection it needs the greatest resistance which implies sewing strength of the fabric. Yarn slippage resistance: Woven fabrics can resist against slipping. As a force applied parallel to the fibers of woven fabric it can displace sewing stitches of that fabric. This resistance depends on connections of warp and weft yarns, fabric densities, strands of yarn and the fibers that make up the type of yarn. Bending Strength: Cloth draping textile product that represents the resistance to bending. If a force is applied to both ends of unit width of textile product that unit leaned over the radius of the curve of torque. Abrasion Resistance: Textile fibers, yarn and fabric material can be squeezed with another
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material. The surface of the fabric can resist the friction of the abrading material. These mechanical properties of woven fabrics, especially abrasion resistance, tensile strength, durability, are the most important features representing. These mechanical properties of the fabric can be affected by many factors such as remaining chemicals on the surface of the fabric, composition of the fibers, yarn and fabric structure and fabric construction Flexibility: The fabric can change the shape under the influence of a certain force; this force is the ability to rotate to its original state, after the elimination the applied force. With the flexibility or elasticity of the fabric, unwanted tearing can be prevented. However, the long-term changes the size and regularity of the fabric. Wrinkle Resistance: If the fabric shrinks after a certain pressure is applied, that pressure may affect the ability to rotate the old form. Fabric density, the greater the elasticity of yarns and fibers, the less the tendency to wrinkle and crease so quickly the wrinkling disappear. 5.4.2.3. Fabric feeling This feature connected with fabric raw material properties such as thickness, softness, and the design influence and process applied to the fabric finishing. Generally fabrics, softness, thickness, and the other are known to be fabric feeling. Feeling of the fabric, particularly woven fabric depends on a raw material used, the yarn type, yarn twist during spinning. For weaving, it especially regards the warp and the weft density, or even more depending on the finishing operations. To determine here, the most suitable finishing operations will bring the desired application of the intended use of the fabric. 5.4.2.4. Permeability and Conductivity Properties The air and water permeability can be defined in two different ways, although this feature is directly related to the thickness of the fabric, the fabric surface structure due to surface tension of water permeability, air permeability of the fabric pores depends largely on the quantity and distribution. For this reason, as the repeat of the yarns and fabric weave their internal structures are also important. The amount and size of pores of the fabric parameters affecting the water and air permeability. Tissue cavities and pores are smaller than the water and air. In addition, wetting or drying of the fabric weave and texture depends on the density-related features. More garment fabrics, but the body not letting outside influences such as cold and hot sweat, etc. Removal of the evaporation of moisture and absorbing structure is needed. This feature is only
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can be especially seen in natural raw materials fabrics. To keep the heat as heat or thermal conductivity and thickness of the fabric primarily depends on the thermal properties of the fibers. Generally, fabrics made of natural fibers have the properties of moisture absorption and air permeability consequently the body warm in winter and keep cool in summer. For example, wool, moisture structure of the body is born with the outdoor air temperature difference and also the cold weather warms the body, the body cool in hot weather. The electrical property of the fabric and the insulation is important in terms of static electricity, and they are involved in fiber properties. The ability to form accumulations of static electric charge depends on the air moisture content of the environment and also friction. Static electric charge can be created during fabric weaving and processing. Static electricity makes fabric easily dirty. This can be a very important reason. Wool, silk, acetate, polyester and nylon, static electricity can occur highly. Cotton, linen and viscose accumulates static electric to some extent. 5.4.2.5 Appearance Yarn properties, particularly as a raw material, finishing procedures, weaving effect, help to add color and the most important feature of the fabric caused by decorative elements. Weaving texture and creates a defined feature of appearance and feel. The amounts of surface textures reflect light in different directions and create a very different appearance effects. So, appearance of the fabric is the other most important property of the fabric. 5.4.2.6 Sew ability At the end stages of the production the fabric is tested for every property. These results in terms of performance apparel fabrics during the processes which are very important, as well as handle the physical and mechanical properties, surface appearance and last appearance, and a full evaluation of a combination of features such as the aesthetic is not sufficient. Many of the test methods and equipment for research and study for fabric property such as physical, dimensional stability, mechanical, such as bending and shear rigidity; touch and aesthetic features of such a combination of surface appearance have been developed. 5.4.2.7 Economical In addition to all the more important characteristics of a fabric an economic factor is the prominent one. Because, it affects the purchasing power of the peoples. In fact, an important
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factor is the product quality. But the economic situation of customers obliges them to pay attention to the price of the product. The designers of raw material quality, types of yarn and weaving, finishing operations, etc. and use of the most appropriate technological possibilities also matter the economy of the product. Economic power, pleasure, and regardless of culture, the first factor affect will be the market outlook of the customer.

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6. FACTORS AFFECTING THE FABRIC STRUCTURE AND FEATURES


6.1. Mixing of raw materials and fibers
The most important factors that affect the behavior of the structure of the fabric type of raw materials used. The all raw materials properties the end use the fabric is given blow. Basic features in the fabric, especially as a major influence on the durability and the finishing process also affect the intended use.

1. Spinnabilty 2. High cover factor 3. Dyeablity 4. Thermal conductivity 5. Moisture content 6. Elasticity 7. Strength 8. Resistivity 9. Brightness, Whiteness 10. Softness

11. Economical 12. Safety 13. limited length 14. Biological resistance 15. Chemical resistance 16 High Temperature 17. Electrical Conductivity 18. Miscibility 19. Softness

The objective of blending fiber is improving appearance of the fabric by mixing properties of one weak component and the other strong property. Mixture of textiles fiber is in two ways. When two or more yarns or fibers are blended with the other component, yarns of the fabric used for handling the different raw materials. Here, among the natural fibers, synthetic fibers or natural fibers, synthetic fibers or yarns used with the inclinable. The most widely used mixing method in textile industry is the synthetic fiber with natural fibers. Here, come forward to the good qualities of both fibers complement each other, the worst features are removed. The most common blends are wool, polyester, polyamide and viscose blend with the cotton, polyester, viscose or modal 'le mixture. Synthetic fibers have high tensile strength and elasticity, friction, fastness, wear comfort features that allow easy cleaning features, combined with natural fibers can be obtained more ideal fabrics. During manufacture, the fibers obtained in different chemical processes and some properties by the application of special effects are obtained.
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Both components of the mixture to give good results in strength, elongation, elasticity, and grace of the fiber length must be compatible with each other. The most commonly used mixture of 70% - 30%, 60% - 40%, 67% - 33%, 50% - 50% . Reasons for the mixing of fibers 1. Quality Improvement i) improve the properties of end use ii) improve the properties of clothing physiology iii) improve the cleaning properties 2. Changing the appearance 3. Efficiency / Economy

6.2. Yarn
Without constructing a yarn from a fiber it is difficult to assume a textile surface whether it woven or knitted. Fabrics made from the same material, although they can vary significantly depending on the yarn structure. Main factors affecting end use of the fabric: Molecular Structure of fiber Properties of yarn (fiber type, length, thickness, ...) Production method The amount of twist Yarn count Yarn evenness Fabric Structure Pattern type, density, ... Fabric Properties Finishing Operations (pretreatments, dyeing, ...)

6.3. Weaving
A warp and weft yarns forming the fabric structure as they mesh to each other and various layouts. In this braid plain, twill and satin, and various connection schemes defined in terms of basic weaves. All other weaves are developed by applying different methods. Derivatives are obtained by deriving the basic weaves. 6.3.1. Basic weaves 6.3.1.1. Plain weave
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Plain weave is the simplest weave. The smallest unit consists of two warps and two wefts. In a plain weave, both sides of the fabric face are same. Equally warp and weft yarns are woven in the same plain. Woven fabrics of plain weave give maximum coverage of the yarn to each other. Therefore, the fabric texture is more robust than other fabrics. Although a simple structure formed by a plain weave is used in industry. The most important derivatives of the weave and plain weave plain rips.

Figure 14 the plot of plain weave repeat 6.3.1.2. Twill weaves Twill weave, creates diagonal lines on the fabric. Twill weave consists of 3 warp and 3weft yarn in the smallest unit. This diagonal twill weave in which the characteristic feature (z) or right (s) may be left way. It is composed of diagonal lines on both sides of the fabric. If you are on the other side of the fabric on one side and the effectiveness of warp floats are at the same rate as the effectiveness of weft floats. In addition, activity can also be equal to each other. Jumps up to link the link is twill weave yarn. With the same frequency as the plain weave, twill weave fabric woven in the same yarn count will be softer and more flexible. Because of this property wool and cotton is used weaving. Fustian is dominated by the surface of the warp threads or weft yarns. To obtain a good fabric, we need good technology of yarn spinning and high-quality smoother surface yarns. The most important derivatives of the twill weave are zigzag weaves, herringbone weaves, broken fustian.

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Figure 15 the plot of 2/2 twill weave repeat

6.3.1.3. Satin weaving Satin weaves are the other fundamental weave. In order to ensure yarn touching each other at least 5 warp yarns and 5 weft yarns are needed. Therefore the smallest unit of satin weave consists of the5 warp and 5 wefts. So, satin woven fabrics have soft and luminous feeling.

Figure 16 the plot of 4/1 Satin weave repeat

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7. Patterning parameters
The production of patterned fabrics in weaving helps the design effects of woven fabrics. The factors of this patterning briefly explained below; a) Weaving (texture) effect b) Color effect c) The effect of yarn structure

7.1 Weave and texture effects


Some of woven fabric patterns have their own structures. These connections can be transversal, longitudinal or diagonal lines, such are called pattern effect. When we use colored yarn those make up the fabric, the pattern structure is caused by its unique effect. For example, diagonal routes of fustian, ribs cord effects, a flat structure created in satin surface, plain cellular structure are weave effect. This type of effect can be mostly seen in classic weaves, dobby and jacquard machines.

7.2 Color Effect


In order to create a wide variety of patterns, weaving threads of warp and weft yarns of different colors are used. Two or more color of yarns can make pattern. First, it changes color and combine warp and weft yarns according to the design, weaving a significant effect, which makes the effect was almost invisible yarn color sequence is hidden and often is not obvious. Edit colored yarns knitted fabric is the second application taking into consideration the building.In this way, the ability to grow for patterning.

7.3 Effects of yarns composition


Woven fabrics of yarns that are different, especially in terms of the number of bending direction and in a certain order 'has the ability to use patterning. This type of reflecting light in different patterns, yarns can be seen as a result of light reflected. Not very obvious, but a method of patterning a commonly performed conventional and high-quality wool fabrics.

7.4 The projection lines


Single-colored wool fabrics, woolen fabrics, especially cake er S and Z twist PNIPAAm changes take turns, or by a change in the main lattice line pattern can be seen only as a result of light reflectance of falling over.
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7.4.1 Shadow line Warp and weft yarns are woven through the use of different features (especially the general S and Z twisted yarns), formed by warp or weft direction of the light shakers different side effects in the way. Shadow square Woven fabrics through the use of different features coarseness s (usually the S and Z twisted yarns), occurring in a square formed by the reflections of the different effects of light. 7.4.2 The square shadow Different features through the use of woven fabrics (usually the S and Z twisted yarns), occurring in a square formed by the reflections of the different effects of light.

7.5 Methods of patterning


Patterning of woven fabrics can be carried out in a variety of methods. These are: a) patterning a combination of various weaves, b) placing the motifs in an orderly structure of the weaves to the patterning, c) one or both of the warp and weft color and weave effect by creating a straight flush with a combination of repeats to the patterning, d) extra weft and warp yarns than yarns that make up the ground floor patterning created by connecting a variety of ways, e) The patterning of complex fabric structures, often large-repeat. To apply the above-mentioned methods of weaving, two main mechanisms have been developed, Jacquard and dobby patterning systems. In this section, these two mechanisms are explored with their patterns. The following section describes methods of weaving patterns. a) Combination of weave patterns b) By placing motif patterns on the basic design structure c) By dyed yarns and with weave effect patterning d) Other patterning facilities Pulling effect Printing, batik painting Such as Pikotaj patterns

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7.5.1 Combinations of weave patterns According to a predetermined pattern, variety of weave pattern can be created by combining new simple lines in a ways based on weaving patterns repeats, or checkered patterns are made. Simple ones can be made by overhead-cam machines. But more of Dobby weaving machines is applied.

Figure 17 Plain and twill patterns to create line columns are sorted, weave structure. A B

Figure 18 A Plain and twill pattern a checkered effect editing the resulting braid to occur

sequentially. B Weft and warp designed satin obtained by placement of a particular pattern in layout method. 7.5.2. Basic weave design structures by patterning By placing a motif on the mesh, patterning can be done in two ways. First, by putting a certain motif on the basic layout of a selected area that changes the structure of the patterning. Usually it is performed by placing small designs on the satin and plain weave. Mostly this is performed by dobby weaving machines.

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The second method is; to use on a ground of the cloth extra warp or weft threads, as appropriate, in a way that does not alter the structure of the design made by binding the ground patterns. Spotted in the extra patterns examples are shown below.

Figure 19 Plain braided designs by the placement of the motifs in a specified pattern onto the ground.

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8. Fabric Geometry
Structural characteristics of woven fabrics and the characteristics of the fabric end use, In order to explain how it affects fabric cross-sectional geometry, the numerical parameters should be determined precisely. Such an approach can provide the calculation for the amount of yarn lengths forming fabric, the fabric thickness, porosity, yarns covering the surface of fabric, various structural features, such as factors affecting the fabric will also give an outline. On the other hand during the stretching of the fabric in use it suffers, bending, although resistance to guess, such as compression format changes aimed at determining the fabric geometry in analytically and mechanically. Many studies have been done on the fabric geometry and the various models proposed. Proposed models based on the assumptions related to this subject.

8.1. Theories of basic repeat


One of the important features when designing a fabric is weft and warp repeat determination. There are currently three main methods to be applied in determining the repeat of fabric: After determining the required numbers of warp and weft yarns enough to make fabric weight, weft and warp density must be determined. If a woven fabric yarns is not sufficiently close to each other, fabric structure does not have enough density or not durable. the structure breakdown at the intersections of the yarns in this slide, In a specific pattern, a certain number of fabric of yarns permitted having the counter. There is a maximum density. This exceeded warp density will introduce warp breakage applied to the desired 8.1.2 Weaving repeats Fabric warp and weft yarns are made links to a certain extent as woven within the repeat regularly repeated movements of the same thread, the number of warp yarns up to the point Warp repeat, the number of weft yarns weft repeat created. "Weaving repeat" consists both of the combination.

8.2 Weaving operation


To create a link to the weft yarns woven fabric warp yarns of the fabric to form the basic structural parameter. To create a link to the fabric woven with weft yarns and warp yarns to form
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the basic structural parameter of fabric. Warp yarns consist of durable yarn tension. Warp yarns of the desired length wound on roller called the warp yarns beam which is prepared for the weaving process. Warp yarns with weft yarns are at right angles to the edge of the fabric, other side of the connection shall form the width of fabric. The weft yarns during weaving are subjected to tension lower than the warp yarns. The weft yarns used in today's modern weaving machines, by pulling out bobbins. In shuttle weaving machines wound bobbins are used. Warp and weft yarns used in weaving, needs various preparation procedures. These'' weaving preparation'' operations are Winding, twisting, transferring, folding, sizing and weaving preparation of this operation. 8.2.1 Basic Weaving Process In any weaving machine, to form woven fabric three basic steps are required. These are: 1. Creating shed: The passage of the weft threads of the warp to the desired mesh opening to form separation process into two parts is called '' shed''. 2. Weft insertion: Weft yarn of a loom carried to the other side of the nozzles is the process of weft insertion. . Weft yarn is transported by shuttle, grippers, hooks, is carried out with air and water jet, and weaving machines are named accordingly. 3. Beating up motion Where the weft is pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the reed is called beating up. This is the basic weaving processes. These operations must be performed with a specific timing. In order to continue this Weaving operation there are two processes necessary. These are: a. Take-up motion For each weaving machine period, determined amount of woven fabric area pull on fabric winding cylinder. Weft density is determined by the amount of fabric take up. If the amount

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taken is increased for period of a weaving machine, weft fabric density decreases, if increases the incidence is low weft. b. Let-off motion Depending on the amount of woven fabric take-up, constant tension of the warp yarns should feed, the process is called let-off. The another auxiliary operations from the main process with 5 weft and when warp breakage occur the machine stops the weft and mechanisms of warp stop, cases where more than one weft color selecting process it should be carefully and fabric in a variety of other processes automation. Winding-up of weaving machine (regulator) systems and working speed, warp tension arising from the machine with a weft inserted at the time weft insertion should be carefully considered depending on the condition which have important effects on the structure of the fabric. Machines that have a positive regulator and a high operating speed the warp tension is high in these weft woven fabrics, and loaded considerably more units, After the tension force by the machine itself collects there by putting fabric loses a certain length, and this causes the proliferation of weft unit significantly.

8.3 Gray fabric inspection section


Section 1: Preparation gray fabric registration form Section 2: Shearing brush (opening) Section 3: Transportations Section 4: Gray fabric quality control and tweezers Section 5: Non-standard form of gray fabric preparation Section 6: Gray fabric winding Section 7: Woven Fabric defects Yarn defects Weaving defects

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General defects Gray fabrics should be inspected before entering to the finishing plant. During this inspections faults resulting from yarn weaving and sizing may be happened by varieties. For various reasons fabrics can contaminated after weaving. This section has the following workflow: 1) Gray fabric preparation registration form In general gray fabric is inspected on the bases of type of raw material. Methods In quality control, gray fabric quality control analysis form, types of gray fabric registration Form, name, pattern / variant no / clean, IA where this defects were written. Collected and the total will be written. The type of fabric, length inspected should be written. 2) Brushing scissors (open) After combining the fabric end to end, it is ready to continue fabric inspection. 3) Transportation Objective: To control the machine and move the fabric trolleys, transport trolleys to get under control machines, fabric and all kinds of free transportation, placement. 4) Gray Fabric Quality Control and Tweezers Objective: Gray woven fabric by tweezers in the quality control and the defects is notified on the relevant departments; prevent the continued failure, to improve the quality of gray fabric.

8.5 Woven fabric defects


Objective: fabric yarn, auxiliary materials of labor, machinery equipment, easy method of evaluation can be applied, or by visible identification of defects distorting the appearance of the fabric.

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8.5.1 Yarn defects Band weft yarn: In weft yarns number of twist and material resulting from and defects can be seen on the width of the fabric in the form of strips Thick-thin weft yarn: normal, thick or thin one or several weft yarn in fabric Loose Lycra: Lycra yarn has no twist or thread in fabric is loose or rupture occurring in fabric within Lycra yarn or occurrence of shrinkage. Thick-thin warp yarn: Normal, thick or thin one or more warp yarn in fabric. Foam Lycra: Lycra in the yarn due to breakage ends on the fabric surface. Foreign yarn: Presence of different yarn in fabric (different in color, twist or raw materials, etc.). Nepo-Nope: A group of fiber defects distorting the appearance of fabric surface. Slub-fish: parts of the yarn have no twist (Uninflected fluffy parts). A weft yarn portions of fish have not seen twisting, twist weft yarn has not seen in a few slub portions. Foreign fiber: Foreign fiber into the yarn elements can cause defects. Band of weft colors: the weft stripes are in line with weft color difference seen in the width of the fabric resulting from this defect. Bark: mechanical defects that occur during the formation of yarn for the weft in certain areas on the fabric surface caused by the formation of producing a wavy effect. Warp band: number of twist in warp yarn and resulting from the difference in color and in the form of strips of fabric is the warp defects. 8.5.2 Fabric defects End Out: Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run with missing end. Foreign yarns: presence of insertion of another short piece of yarn in the weft yarn. Eccentric weft: the fabric defects associated with lack of one or more weft strands. Broken weft: The defect caused by weft yarn breakage, weft yarn is missing may be through half of the width of fabric.
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Double Weft: The defects caused by double-pass of weft yarn through shed. Yarn snarling: The defect caused by small loops of yarn is twisted on itself due to more twist in the yarn. Weft accumulation: The defect caused when weft yarn loop is higher than normal. Thicker fabric: More often caused by the defects in various places. Thinner fabric: the fabric is thinner than usual, which caused by the presence of defects in various places. Defected Pattern: In multi-colored weft fabrics in different colors or patterns identical to the one Defects that occurs in weft winding, Crush-Hole: In woven fabric during transportation crush-holes or torn places may happen. Skip-Immersion: the weft yarn through the normal storyline, making the connection to one or more warp yarns are errors caused by jumping. Oil migration: a piece of fabric or cotton weaving shed during the oil thread waste arising into one of the error. Comber defects: Weaving of the fabric during the oil thread waste and defects arising from the entry into a piece of cotton between the nozzles Comber marks: Defects caused by comber tooth gaps inequality or the deformation of the teeth Tight or slack warps: Normally fabric is stretched or loose which created by tight or slack warp threads. Broken warp: After idle time when the warp yarns of woven fabric inter to the shed warp yarn may breaks. Long yarn: when the warp yarns are idle they are elongated which can cause defects on the fabric surface. Miss-end: Defects created by lack of one or more warp threads. Mesh defects: This defect occur when the warp and weft yarn not interlaced properly. Oil-Rust-soil: oil-rust-soil stains upon the fabric during make contact with them. Sizing defects in cotton: enough warp yarns sizing fin comb defects resulting from the friction force.

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Reed mark: Due to weaving looms reed not correctly adjusted and defective traces occurs at the edges the fabric. Dobby defects: Dobby system for warp threads section may fails that can cause defects on the fabric surface. Friction: Any defects that occur at fabric fell because of friction contact. Bad Selvedge: A defect in a fabric because of faulty weaving, warp ends being set too far apart for the thickness of the yarn or in finished fabric, an appearance in which the underlying structures is not connected to the degree required.

Double warp yarn: Defects occurred when two warp yarns passes through one drop wires. Reed mark: Reed needles can create small holes in the fabric in both weft or warp directions. Split: Moves to cut small edge of wefts yarn in case when it is formed.

8.5.3 General defect Oil contaminated weft and warp: Warp yarn and friction as a result of dropping oilcontinuous or discontinuous weft yarn fabric greasy dirt stains the dirty-created errors. Knot: yarn rupture, defects due to connecting yarns at knot

Most commonly defects Dyed Yarns: Thick and thin places of a bands of wefts yarns. Dyed fibers: lycra broken off-thick/thin-reed friction Types of raw material Oil stains, gelling defects, foreign yarn, protruding fibers.

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9. Finishing the Process


Grey cloth after weaving, before it is ready for sale it undergoes some physical and chemical treatment processes known as finishing operations. Textile finishing processes can be classified simply as follows: 1. Pre-Treatment 2. Coloring i) Dyeing ii) printing 3. Finishing Finishing process is divided into two 1. Wet finishing Operations 2.Dry Finishing Operations Wet finishing processes covers many processes such as: of bleaching process, crease resistance, flame retardant finish. Wet finishing operations, consists of three basic operations; 1. Transfer and application of finishing chemicals 2. Washing 3. Drying Stability, water resistance, fire resistance, shrinkage finishes are selected in accordance with the required features to be provided to the fabric. Finishing processes such as milling, teasing, calendaring and steaming are preceded by mercerization and washing for effects on dimensions of the fabric. Steaming and thermoforming processes such as Decatur the flick features provide the permanent finish to the fabric. Textile finishing processes change in the size and the feeling (touch) of the fabric.

9.1. Pre-Treatment
In general, the beginning of the textile fabric preparation, the so called pre-treatment process is the process of removal all foreign material found in the fiber. There is no need for all textile products to undergo pretreatment process. Good major features of fibers obtained as a result of pre-treatment are as follows: Removal of foreign substances such as sizing, trash, pectin, fats and oils, by using catalytic chemicals substances. Hydrophilicity Hygroscopic moisture percentage Fixed PH

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Degree of Whiteness swelling of fiber

9.2. Coloring
Textile coloring can be applied: 1. In fiber form 2. On tops coloring during yarn manufacturing. 3. In the form of yarn 4. In fabric form. After being performed in four stages, such as fabric, they are administered together. Basically, it brought the raw materials opacity-brightness properties, it makes short fibers long, rough or smooth surfaces dyed with different colors due to light reflectance wall be more dull, more light shades wall be more brighter. These basic qualities are the key to the most widely used coloring. 1. Coloring in fiber form: Raw material properties will highly affect the dyeing property, depending on the types of raw materials e.g. natural fibers such as: wool and silk, will be duller, artificial and synthetic fibers, on the other hand, will be brighter. In addition, thin, short and highly curved fibers, long and short curly or wavy fibers show dull and faded appearance. 2. Tops coloring: coloring in Tops are made on wool sector. Mixture of tops, depending on the demand, can be dyed with one color or different colors. 3. Yarn form coloring: It is used for piece dyeing method on yarns with single color to do dyeing in partition. Production method and the twist affect the yarn dyeing. Combed yarns, as the fibers become parallel, because they reflect more light rays, appear brighter and more vivid. Surface brightness increases as the amount of yarn twist increases. The direction of reflected light varies due to variations in helices twist of the yarn. Texturized synthetic yarns consisting of continuous fibers become dull colored than others. Printing method on the warp Yarn in the mordant creates a view very different but very few are used. Here it disturbs the integrity of the colored warps, for this, more saturated colors are selected. 4. Fabric dyeing: In this method, dyeing or printing occurs on fabric .For this method raw material and knitted/woven are the most important. The plain weave look dull, satin weave gives shiny appearance. In relation between weave and reflection, they are put in the following ascending order: Plain-Rips-Crepe-Panama-Twill-Satin.

9.3. Finishing Processes


After pre-treatment, the so called the ' Finishing Processes. ', is done to improve the appearance, characteristics and feeling of the fabrics. Fnshng is also named as permanent and temporary finishing and according to the characteristics they provide to the fabric are divided in to the following groups: 1. Fabric appearance Smoothness, brightness, density, opacity, etc.
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2. Fabric feeling Hardness, freshness, fullness, softness, elasticity, toughness, etc. 3. Fabric end use Fire resistance, water resistance, shrinkage, dirt realizing, mildew, anti-microbacteral, etc. Finishing operations can be divided into two groups: 1.Chemcall Finishing Processes 2. Mechanical Finishing Processes Chemical finishing process is carried out, when, finishing material based on the application method come in to contact with the fiber and makes banding with the fiber. Pre-treatment process is extractive process, while fnishing process is additive process. So at the end of the process fabric weight increases. Fnshng process gets the desired cutting, napping, suppression using heat treatment and mechanical fixation is provided. Aim of mechanical finishing processes is generally to improve the fabric appearance and behavior.

9.4 End use


Which area is to use the fabric produced directly affects the design of fabric. Areas of usage and design of fabric have direct relay on. For example, garments worn during sports and casual wear have huge differences from the design angle. Fabric tenacity is very important for the user, and therefore also affects structure. Ranking in terms of strength, of outer wear such as, trousers, dresses, jackets are designed. The trouser fabrics are exposed to more force must be, most stringent and densely weaved. Overcoats should be loose; women fabric should be loosely woven than men fabrics in specific proportions.

9.5 Fashion and Market Opportunities


Fashion in accordance with a given society, can be defined as common pleasures and temporary feeling exercised by a society. In addition, can be defined as "changes in people's passion to search and to put forward new things". Fashion does not reflect historical periods, in social societies fashion, are able to distinguish themselves from other populations. For this reason fashion varies by, class, status, age and sex conditions. Over time, fashion trends may change due to the so-called pattern and fabrics property, market requirements and seasons. Fashion, fabric, pattern, color and general appearance often changes. However, the fashion is affected by raw material and technological developments lattice. Therefore, design and fashion are to each other interconnected concepts Market requirement and fabric fashion construction mode quite affects fashions.

9.6. Cost
Production and service cost is the amount of expenditures made in production. Costs depend on wide variety of factors. These effects determine the costs and cost estimates
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related to these factors could help efforts to reduce costs. Weaving process uses yarn as a raw material; yarn is delivered by weight, so length and weight are delivered as raw material. Thus, the types of raw material control the weight. Yarn wastages are also included during the weaving process. Yarn waste percentage and defective pieces from weaving, together affects the

weaving raw material cost. Changes in the physical Properties of the product should be taken into account to raw material costs. In addition, grey fabric is made up of defective parts. This also affects costs. Economic conditions affect construction. Light weights fabrics are created by using fewer raw materials are considered to be economical. Therefore, producing fabrics using fine yarns is the first solution that comes to mind. However, the fine fibers are costly. Also fine yarns are also more frequently used. What is important here is to establish the optimal weight with thicker yarns. Brightness, hairiness, some features, such as view appearance are brought using some finishing operations.

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10 MATERIALS AND METHODS


In this section, fabric parameters used for production of fabrics, standards used to measure the performance of fabric, and test methods will be introduced.

10.1. Sample formation


In this study, we will consider the basic twill weave which is the most widely used in the market. This consideration is made because of the derivative of twill weaves creating a D 2/1 weave is used. Standard D 2/1 plot In addition to this mesh generated various designs (variety of mesh designs of D 2/1 twill, a total of 5). Creating the warp and weft dominated designs by various jumping movements, predominantly used in the design. This one was filmed at the same warp weaves used in creating the framework .For sampling 12 used to touch brand Picanol GTX Rapier weaving machine. All samples density is the same. Used in the warp and weft yarns viscose rich polyester / viscose blended yarns. Elastomeric weft yarn fabrics were selected to be up to date on the market. To see the actual performance of fabrics dyed fabrics. Because with this type of process produced fabric is exposable to various physical and chemical effects; treat all produced fabric at the same pre-treatment process, same dyeing process and same finishing process.

10.2. Fabrics samples and their Features


Weaving parameters and yarns used in weaving are shown below. Mixture number Warp Yarn Ne 44/2 VI / PES 60/40 The weft yarn Ne 26/1 VI / PES / EA 56.8/37.8/5.4

Fabric Parameters Parametric Value Density of warp 30 ends / cm


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Density of mechanical weft 29tel/cm scarf Comb width 204cm Coding of the sample fabrics fabrics Code Fabric 1 K1 Fabric 2 K2 Fabric 3 K3 Fabric 4 K4 Fabric 5 K5 In this weave warp and weft yarns are replaced at different ratios. Due to the difference in structure, density, pilling, bending, wrinkle-resistant, and thickness values and is expected to be changed. In addition, with differences in the number of jump also pilling on the surface, density, quantity, weight, dimensional stability, thickness, and shear values changes have been planned. These changes are expected to create changes in the fabric elasticity and handle.

10.3. The Tests


In this section the purpose and the method of tests applied on fabrics wall be dealt within addition, the standards to measure the performance of the fabric will be seen. 10.3.1. Determination of density From conditioned fabric 5 pieces samples each in warp and weft direction is taken and the density is counted and arithmetic mean of the result is taken. In addition, five-group comparisons performed with Kruskal-Wallis test (KW ANOVA) (P <0.05 the values make sense). The values obtained after these fabrics are compared with Bonferonni-corrected Mann-Whitney U test were in pairs. Descriptive statistics of the median (median), the minimum and maximum values are then calculated. 10.3.2. Determination of GSM From the conditioned fabrics 10 samples are weighed and the mass per unit area is determined by taking the arithmetic mean. In addition, five-group comparisons performed with Kruskal-Wallis test (KW ANOVA) (P <0.05 the values make sense). Then, the values obtained in this fabric

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compared with Bonferonni-corrected Mann-Whitney U test in pairs. Descriptive statistics of the median (median), the minimum and maximum values are also calculated. 10.3.3. Determination of Size Changes After Washing After conditioning the fabric dimensions are marked with the help of one template according to the standard. With the help of the template, dimensions are marked 3 pieces in the warp direction and 3 pieces in the weft direction. By marking each fabric at 3 different places, or making mark by hand on each fabric 9 in the warp direction and 9 in the weft direction. Wash and dryer in accordance with TS 5720 EN ISO 6330 standard (40 0C temperature-Tumbles Dry) and after that make measurement of dimensions through the marks. And calculate dimensional elongation or shortage as percentage based on the template. Then calculate the arithmetic averages. In addition, five-group comparisons Kruskal-Wallis test (KW ANOVA) performed with (P <0.05 the values make sense). Then, compare the values obtained in this fabric with Bonferonni-corrected Mann-Whitney U test in pairs. Descriptive statistics of the median (median), the minimum and maximum should also be done.. 10.3.4. Determination of Tensile Strength The device used has two jaws, one fixed and one moving at constant speed throughout the experiment, with a pulling device. A fabric piece with the specified dimensions shall be extended at constant speed until it breaks. The biggest force, the largest in size elongation under force, if necessary, breaking strength and elongation at break recorded .in length. Conditioned fabrics 50mm width (excluding fringes), and 200 mm length specimens were prepared. Sample 5 in the warp direction and 5 to be taken in the weft direction. After measurements are taken the arithmetic mean of the results calculated. In addition, five-group comparisons is performed with Kruskal-Wallis test (KW ANOVA) (P <0.05 the values make sense). Then, the values obtained are compared with Bonferonni-corrected Mann-Whitney U test in pairs. Descriptive statistics of the median (median), the minimum and maximum values are calculated. 10.3.5. Determination of Tear Resistance Experimental device, or the pendulum, with adjustable clamp and fixed clamp has maximum potential energy. The sample to be experemented is connected between the clamps ,and one tearing or cutting test is started . In this way tear strength is measured. 5 pieces of conditioned fabric in both warp and weft direction is prepared with the help of a template. After the test is cared out the arithmetic average of the result is calculated. In
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addition, comparisons of group of five is performed with Kruskal-Wallis test (KW ANOVA) (P <0.05 the values make sense). Then, the values obtained from is compared with Bonferonnicorrected Mann-Whitney U test in pairs. Then descriptive statistics of the median (median), the minimum and maximum values are calculated. 10.3.6. Determination of thickness To determine thickness of the fabric, a pressure of 1 kPa or less is applied on fabric between to the two reference plates. To determine thickness of the fabric, the textile sample is placed on the reference plate, by applying certain pressure of (200 g) (with circular presser foot). For each conditioned crimp and wrinkle-free fabrics, measurements are taken at 5 different locations; in each the arithmetic mean of the measurements is calculated. In addition, five-group comparison is made with KruskalWallis test (KW variant analysis) (P <0.05 the values make sense). Descriptive statistics of the median (median), the minimum and maximum values are given. 10.3.7. Determination of Pilling Pilling is the separation of surface attached fiber, as a result in subsequent uses the mixing of these fibers will occur. These fibers mix on the surface of fabric and form bulk .They decrease permeability to light and they create shadow. This test is done on the Martindale abrasion test device. Washed and dried fabrics in circular sample form are cut by applying a force. And test is carried out on the surface of fabric with certain RPM and duration of time, using the same fabric or a wool fabric as an abrasive. Standard washed and dried surface of fabrics based on three sets, tested at 2000 revs .Finally the original components and standard photographs were evaluated. Assessment is between 1 and 5, indicating the worst condition is a maximum pilling. 10.3.8. Determination of Elasticity 50mmX150mm sized conditioned fabric sample,5 pieces in the warp direction and 5 pieces in the weft direction taken and tested by pulling machine. It is better to take the arithmetic mean of the results. In addition, make five-group comparisons with Kruskal-Wallis test (KW ANOVA) ( with P <0.05 significant values). Then, the values obtained in this fabric are compared in pair with Bonferonni-corrected Mann-Whitney U test. Descriptive statistics of the median (median), the minimum and maximum values are given.

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10.3.9. Determination of wrinkle After removal of forces applied on textile material is removed; the folded part of the textile material tries to recover certain degree. Fold improvement in the value of the angle of the fabric to get rid of traces of involuntary feature of folding is determined after the fold. After the fabric is folded according to the specified conditions the pressure is removed after a certain period, the angle remained in the arms is called angle of recovery. Conditioned fabric both to be in the direction of the warp and weft , fabric back and front side of each 20 samples were collected to from a total of 20 samples , in dimensions of 40mmX15mm. These samples are kept folded over 5 minutes under a certain pressure and the pressure is removed and look closely for any signs of recovery times occurring then the arithmetic mean is calculated by taking the help of a scale point. In addition, five-group comparisons is performed with Kruskal-Wallis test (KW ANOVA) (P <0.05 the values make sense). Then the values obtained are compared with Bonferonni-corrected Mann-Whitney U test in pairs. Descriptive statistics of the median (median), the minimum and maximum values are then calculated . 10.3.10. Determination of Bending resistance Bending strength, is the resistance offered by fabric. To demonstrate bending ,the fabric cut in the form of a rectangle and is fixed horizontally at one end some support, then under its own weight a situation of deviation of from the will happen. For example, when the inspection of textile products is hard felt in higher flexural strength. '' Immutable'' device is the device used Eiltme angle. Flexural strength unit is mg / cm. After condtonng the fabric , each sample with a size of 2.5cmx15cm in every fabric in the warp direction 4 pieces and in the weft direction 4 pieces samples are prepared. Samples of the faceplate and the rear face and at both ends of the value of 32 are obtained in the following calculations were made using the following formula. We observe that the values obtained, by dividing face is written for ease of comparison. 2 A A
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X C = (5.1) C=O 2 OX (5.2) 3A A G = 0.1 * W * C (5.3) 3Q O * W * C to G = 0.1 (5.4) O A O G = G * G (5.5) XA: Sagging Weft Direction Length (cm) XC: Sag Warp Direction Length (cm) CA: Weft Direction Bending length (cm) CC: Warp Direction Bending length (cm) GA: Weft Direction Flexural Strength (mg.cm) IO: Warp Direction Flexural Strength (mg.cm) GO: Fabric Bending Strength (mg.cm) In addition, five-group comparisons performed couples with the test sample was obtained. First, after more seamless welded parts were tested and the arithmetic mean of the results obtained. This test is done only for information purposes. 10.3.11. Determination of Seam Opening Is a measure of resistance to slip weaving slippage, sew parallel to yarn to measure the amount of displacement due to the sewing force. With band fold the sample and sew parallel to the fold direction. Folded fabric strip line is cut, and pulls the thread with the help of gripping device, in the sewing direction parallel to the vertical .Note that, pre-specified amount of force is applied for opening of the seam and standard Switches were used. Five conditioned 100mmX350mm fabric in the warp and weft direction is taken. Each of these parts to be sewed and unsewed . See first the sewed samples, then see the unsewed samples and the arithmetic mean of the results calculated. This test is done only for information purposes. 10.3.12 Softening process.

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The chemical finishing process is used to provide the product a soft feeling. Staining and hard feeling that tougher after colorization process is corrected by using softening process. Softening finishing can be applied on fabric after coloring, fiber form. Finishing process van be applied, regardless of usage, on fabric form after dyeing or on fiber form after dyeing. 10.3.12 Hard Finish Hard chemical finishing process can be applied to all fiber groups of textile material. Despite, finishing process applied to all fibers in the application area is limited because it gives fabric undesirable characteristic. However, hard and tough fnshng should be applied on products such as tents, tarpaulins, tarlatan products such as wedding dress. 10.3.13 Slippery finishing Slippery finish is a chemical finishing process applied to all fibers. Slippery finish, when applied to the material, imparts a softer behavior. Slip finish that feels like silk, is get by transferring finishing chemicals to material (fabric). 10.3.14 weighting (sizing) finish Light weighted fabrics are applied with chemicals at the finishing process. Surfaces of warp and weft yarns in woven fabrics, surfaces of loops of knitted fabrics, are coated with coating chemicals to give weight. The weighting process provides a reasonable increase in GSM of the fabric. 10.3.15. Gloss Finishing It is mechanical methods and chem. The effect of finishing material applied to the fabric will look the fabric brighter. Usually this method is applied to external apparel products . Finishes applied to textile products used in daily life are exposed to sense of vision. This eye examination is for physical changes on the fabric surface, and changes between thumb and finger index chemical changes on the fabric. Learning activity
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This is knowledge and skill learning activities, for the technique of softness under suitable conditions. By using Laundry Softener at your home and other properties sold in markets, at right processing temperature, processing time ,investigate the result. By using used garments, seat upholstery, curtains and garments sold in the shop check the softness of taking between the thumb and index finger. Compare this data with friends, making the resulting report.

11. SOFTENING TREATMENT

11.1. Purpose of softening treatment


The purpose of softening of the textile material is to give the textile material a soft feeling (to all natural and artificial fibers). Natural and synthetic fibers, before finishing have to be pre treated because they contain some of the substances nsde. These substances, give fibers hydrophobic (water repel) property. After large pre-treatment procedures made before the coloring process they are removed. Arrangement of the ingredients Softness and the recipe used in finishing or softening Chemical materials or fabric softener known as a lubricant gives a certain softness and drape to textile material. Softeners used in softening textile material show some characteristics differences. They are divided into four groups according to differences. They are: Anionic softeners . Cationic softeners . Nonionic softeners . Silicone softeners 12.2.1 Anionic softeners By their effects of Softening, as well as the weakness of the method this synthetic plasticizers are known by their weak softening effect. As compared to other softeners, are not used widely today. Rather, are used as crease inhibiting agent for warp yarns. Recede prescribed by the method of impregnating the sample 10 to 40 g / l of anionic softening PH 5 to 5.5
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12.2.2Cationic Softeners Catatonic fabric softeners are used by all natural and synthetic fibers. They are preferred as they provide pleasant behavior and are cheaper in price. In addition, the appropriate method of impregnation can be used. Cationic softeners study shows that, the biggest problem that occurred were mainly , when used with optical whitening products ,is that the danger to cause yellowing effect. During the process proper PH change control and liquor control will elevate the problem. Prescribed by the method of impregnating the sample: 3 to 20 g / l of cationic fabric softener PH 5 to 5.5 0.5 to 5 g / l of cationic fabric softener PH 5 to 5.5 12.2.3 Nonionic Softeners Softening effects is between cationic and anionic softening effect. In any way they generate non ionic complex with other chemical that may be in the liquors. Softening agents substantively (an interest in the material) is very low only in accordance with the method of impregnation. Due to their resistance of the high temperature can be used together with optical brighteners. In addition, optical whitening products made in any manner does not turn yellow. Prescribed by the method of impregnation the sample: 10 to 40 g / l nonionic softener pH 7 12.2.4 Silicone Softeners Silicone softeners are used for all natural and synthetic textile fibers. Provide a high degree of lubricity and softness. Disadvantages of silicone softeners are, expensive prices and failure to comply to the procedure (instructions) lead to removal of stain. Prescribed by the method of impregnation the sample: 5 to 25 g / l silicone emollient PH 5 to 5.5 Pulling the sample according to the method prescribed: 1-4 g / l silicone emollient PH 5 to 5.5

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12.3 Preparatory work Some operations should be done before a softening process. They are: filling finishing machine, material loading, and dosing chemical substances. All these operations are done respectively, before the softening process. 12.3.1 Liquor preparation Preparation of liquor is done according to weight of the material. According to the form of the material, by the methods of softening finish impregnation and pulling, on machines running conditions it differs. These methods differ from liquor intake. 12.3.2 Impregnation procedure and machine liquor addition Impregnation procedure is done as follows. The fabric passes chemical substances in the bathroom and passes a impregnation roller and immediately impregnating is performed by tightening the clamping cylinders. Today finishing squeezing rollers used alone. Operation is connected to a machine, called a stenter. The biggest advantage of this machine is, drying and evaporating the water on the fabric and fixation(dimensional stability) .

Fig 20 stentering machine

12.3.3 Pulling procedures working machine liquor addition


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To do finishing treatment before adding chemicals in to the machine, you need to prepare the liquor. The amount of liquor to be taken to the machine is proportional to the material weight. For example, for 1/5 liquor ratio a 1 kg material need to get liquor of 5 kg . Material divided by the liquor weight. For example, a party supposed to do , with soft flow machine, 400 kg of soft fabric . With a liquor ratio between1/8-1/10. The amount of liquor to be filled is there fore between 3.2 to 4 ton . Liquor intake: when water intake valve at the bottom of the machine is open immediately provided the introduction of liquor. When the valve is in open state, the machine will begin to receive the necessary amount of liquor, from the bottom. 12.3.4 Loading the fabric on the machine 1. Loading Procedure for impregnating the fabric in the machine The fabric which is gowning to be finished is sewn by sewing machine and is introduced through guider rollers and through impregnating rollers in to the machine. 2. Fabric Puller Machine Loading Procedure After the completion of liquor intake, it is necessary to add softening materials to the machine. Machine capacities vary according to manufacturers. Textile machine, so-called eye part is installed and removed. According to the machine, the number of eye ranges between 1-10 . Each eye has 10-200 kg capacity. 12.4 Chemicals addition 12.4.1. Impregnating Chemicals addition Procedures Finishing machines impregnation procedure: chemicals are diluted with water separately. In other words, water and chemicals to be used in finishing brought into solution with stirring. This solution is then transferred for impregnation. 12.4.2. Chemicals adding Procedures Chemicals are added by using apparatus found on the sde of the machine or by usng addton tanks or addition vessels at the back of the machine. At this point, the top and bottom machine inside connection is made with a pipe system. In this way, it is possible to transfer liquor on both sides of the machine. The chemical substances are usually diluted in this section. In addition in the tank mixing is carried out .After obtaining a homogeneous mixture discharge valve opens
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and the solution is given to the machine. Then, a small amount of water should be added to the tank for softening chemicals. Softening agent is given the required amount of water taken from the scaffold, and mix with electric mixer. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, the softening agent is transferred to the machine by opening the discharge valve. 12.5 Finishing treatment 12.5.1. Softening of cellulose fibers Cellulosic fibers manufactured fabrics, are especially suitable for any type of internal and external wears. Therefore, cellulosic fibers, are the most widely used class of fiber by weaving and knitting industry. Generally for Cellulosic fibers softening, silicone softeners are usually used in the textile market. In addition, due to their softening result and relative cheap price ,catatonic softeners are used. In addition, the softener in combination with each group (combined) can be used. For cationic softeners smoother operation, optical whitening (bleaching) have been problem due to undesirable yellowing effect on fabrics. 12.5.2. Softening Protein-Based Fibers Products of protein-based fibers, are often used for winter outerwear. Protein-based products, just as cellulosic products, are finished with silicone softeners or with specially with cationic softeners. 12.5.3. Softening of synthetic fibers Natural fibers are not soft as synthetic fibers and not draping well so softening operation should be more careful . Particular synthetic products used for clothing should be softened with a large amount of softener. Using a larger amount of softening agent does not mean that fibers will be more softer. At some point in more softening the material will be grid . Therefore, the values given by the manufacturer will occur above and below the negative studies. For Synthetic fibers, cationic as well as nonionic ,and silicone softeners are used . With different softeners plasticizers can be used in combination in the same bath. Things to be considered here is that this materials will form complex substances nsde the bath room. In other words, one anionic grouped of the softener can form complex substance with kcatonc grouped in the same bath.
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12.5.4. Softening Process Diagram Fnshng dagramFabric loaded on the machine, according to the required amount of shrinking ,within the specified temperature and time . Acetic acid used for pH adjustment. 12.6. Last Procedure 12.5.1. Finishing impregnation procedure Softening, impregnating in to fnshng solution ,fabric drying and curing in 3-8 chambers, consisting of 20 to 180 C heat-up phase is passed in the setter. Here, the effect of temperature removes moisture completely from the fabric, at the same time fixation occurs. 12.5.2 Extraction Procedure When fabric is dipped finishing solution ,extra amount of liquor on the cloth is taken away by squeezing before the fabric is taken away by the macne.Tightening is done by cross-clamping rollers . up to 40% on the amount of liquor is removed , and drying and fixing will continue. 12.5.3 APPLICATION ACTIVITY Application Procedure for impregnating Softeners: Suggested Operation Steps . Select the appropriate softener for finish. . Prepare stock solution by diluting the appropriate amount Softening agent in water. . Reducing the speed of the mixer to avoid the the rate of deterioration of softening material. . Gradually pour softener on the water . Otherwise, a uniform distribution may not occur Check the pH value of softening solution . . Pay attention that softening solution pH is in the range 4.5 to 6 . Make sure that you are using pH paper and use a damp there. Be careful that calibration is made when using a pH meter. . Calculate the amount of solution . Calculate the weight of the material. . Provide extra tank for solution. . load the fabric on the machine. . Sew the fabric, guide fabric in padding . . Keep passing the fabric to absorb the solution by mpregnaton . . Dry fabric on setter . Setter temperature is 120 - 180 C..

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. and fell the difference between finishing and unfinished by sense of touch for softness between the thumb and fore finger . 12.5.3 EVALUATION CRITERIA Implementation activities :evaluate the work by yourself or with a friend. Application Procedure :for impregnating finish Softeners: Assessment Criteria :Yes No You have selected the appropriate softener softness to finish? Have you prepared by diluting the stock solution with water, with the appropriate amount of Softening agent? Have you checked the value of PH of solution ? But did you get the correct amount of liquor? Have you filled solution to addition tank? I sewed the fabric that will pass in guide roller? Did you load the fabric in the machine? Have you ensured that fabric passing the liquor has absorbed adequately? Have the fabric dried in the setter? 1. Soil-repellent finish Dry or wet dirt attached to fabric impacts the finishing process. Dirt-repellent finish forms thin layer film on the fabric surface. Dirt is prevented by the film shaped substrate on the surface of the fabric . Fabric after application get a tougher feeling. Generally,, shall apply to products such as carpets ,seat covers that are cleaned quickly and frequently contaminated. 2. Water-repellent finish Water-repellent finishing process, the surface around the fiber is made hydrophobic (water repellent). Leads to blockage of transfer of air in the fabric air pores.Fabrc surface is made water-repellent after finishing, water spilled on the surface of the fabric remains in the form of droplets. Water-repellent finish are applied to fabric to be used as, winter outer wear (raincoats). 3. Water Resistant Finish The front and back fabric surfaces are coated with a thin film of the water repellent finishing agent. Fabric pores of the fabric are closed ,for that reason it is very difficult for the skin to get respiration. For this reason, this finishing method can be applied in confined areas. Generally, is applied to tents, tarpaulins and sections of shoes cloth.
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4. Flame retardant finish Flame retardant finishing process is called by some sources, fireproofing finish. Flame retardant finish is carred out by transferring the fabric surface. Generally, bed, soldiers and firemen uniforms, vehicle upholstery, textile products used in the areas of community open to the public and private (theater curtains, etc.) is applied. 5. Applied finishing according to type of fiber 6.Chemical Finishing process applied for Cellulose-Based Products 6. Crinkle finish Linen and cotton fibers, mainly viscose fabrics wrinkle very quickly. To minimize the wrinkle property ,the fiber amorphous regions is filled with crease resistance finishing resin,. Note : outer wears are washed frequently and there fore are subjected to wrinkle. 7. transparence finish Cellulosic fabric is passed in environment of highly concentrated sulfuric acid , in the process giving transparent image to the fabric. Generally, fabrics became fancy. 8. Antiseptic Finish It is wash-resistant finishing process that prevents the formation of bacteria and fungi on the skin . It is sometimes named as anti-bacteral finishing is done on wears in areas subjected to public society such as , underwear, footwear items, prevent odor formation and growth of bacteria. 9. Protein-Based Products applied chemical Finish Processes 10. Felt finishing Wool fibers, as a result of layer of crushed heat, motion, excessive basic and acidic environment as a result of other fiber curls into a complex structure. Therefore pull in the product length occurs. Use of the product during the finishing process for the customer end use called felting finish. To maintain product quality and employee satisfaction a kind of pulling treatment called felt finishing is done. 11. vegetarian Moth finishing Insects damage the structure of protein fibers especially wool fibers. Naphthalene removes these harmful pests from the fiber, poisons like DDT is not good for health. Moth on vegetarian finishing agents for a protein fiber blocks the shelter .
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12. Finishing of Synthetic Products 12. Antistatic Finish Static electricity from synthetic fibers stick on human body. In addition, it much more contaminates and pollutes the clothing. Antistatic finishing process is performed using antistatic finishing agent. Antistatic finishing process is generally applied to the yarn during the process of shooting. 14. Ant pilling finishing Fabric surfaces made of synthetic products consists of small fiber derbs. They are invisible to the eye as they are bead-shaped and connected to the fabric. This situation is observed in antpllng finished fabrcs. The ant-pilling agent is transferred to the fabric through impreginaton. 12.6 Mechanical Finishing process applied to all fibers Mechanical finishing process , improves the properties of the material , or mechanical effects is given by the process called mechanical finishing. Mechanical finishing operations are done generally in dry, although the material is subjected to the process of finishing. Mechanical finishing process used for the finishing machine will provide the desired effect. For example, raising machine, shearing, and sanforizing machine. A. teasing Is the process of mechanical finishing that can be applied to all natural and synthetic fabrics. Teasing, is done on raising machine. Fabric is brought to raising machine, and passed the steel needle and is brought into contact with the rollers . In this way the yarns forming the fabric fibers pulled out from inside. Separated out from the fabric the fibers gets a furry appearance. Generally, is applied to winter clothing fabrics. B. Raising In this finishing process, woven or knitted fabric, are made in to contact with the roller,. This is a kind of teasing or napping process, although the resulting effect is completely different from each other. To obtain kind of image of suede sanding effect on the surface of the fabric, sanded, fancy fabrics that are shorter in layout form.

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Fig 21 different view of raising machine

C. Brushing by steam As a result of mechanical processes such as teasing and shearing away from the fabric surface of the fiber not good, mechanical finishing process for fabric softening and polishing is therefore required. Wet or dry fabric is passed on rotating brushs, due to friction of brushes , fiber pieces are removed and fabric gets a partial softening or polishing effect.

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Fig 22 brushing machine D. Shearing Shearing is the process of completely removing fiber bulges from the surface of the fabric. By this mechanical finishing process, tiles on the surface of the fabric are cut to a certain length. Also known as Razors, on shearing machnes, fabrc is passed between straight and spiral scissor blades. Thanks to the rotating spiral blade, bark ridges of fibers on the surface of fabric is cut to certain length . Thus, the surface of the fabric becomes smooth, while the state of brightness is increased

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Fig 23 shearing machine E. Making Tumbler Weight decreased as a result of pre-finishing and coloring operations, fiber is structurally weakened, and by having finishing fabrics regain weight. 12.6.1. Mechanical Finishing process depending on the type Fiber 12.6.1.1 Mechanical Finishing process for Cellulose-Based Products A. Sanforzng During pre-treatment and coloring operations , fabric tension especially in the warp direction occurs. If this tension is not resolved , during the first wash, the fabrc withdrawal or shortening occurs. To eliminate this tension that occurred during the process of finishing the fabric must be Compacted on sanforizing machine by using felt with moist heat.

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Fig 24 sanforizing machine B. Calendaring Calendaring is the process of passing the material through at least two cylinders under pressure. The effect of heated calendaring machine cylinder and , high pressure increase the brightness of the fabric. In addition, the fabric gets ironed look. Calendaring is mainly done on synthetic fabrics, wool and cotton .

Fig 25 calendaring machine

C. Permanent Shaping Fabrics made of cellulose fibers, get certain pattern or shape by passing through high

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temperature in the cylinders or molds . 12.6.1.2 Mechanical Finishing process for Protein-Based fabrics A. Fixing process Is applied specially to woolen fabrics, especially wool. Fabric is passed in open transverse form through very hot water to get dimentional stablity. That is when it is needed to minimize the length and width of the fabric. Another name for this process is crabbing, and it is carried out during pre-treatment process. B. Decatizing One of the most recent actions done on woolen fabrics before sewing. Goal of dekatizing finishing is to make the material ready for sewing. Diarizing finished material gets a certain size stability (constancy) and increases in brightness and softness.

Dicatizing machine

Fig 26 Decatur

C. Pressing To get same effect obtained from calendaring on cotton fabric we do pressing on wool. Calandering of woolen fabric is not applicable due to high pressure. Pressing process, applied to wool fabrics, on press machines. Pressing woolen cloth, will give shine and soft appreance. D. Raising Raising and grinding (for smoothing) creates feather layer on woolen fabrics, and a mechanical grinding process, created a layer of feathers floating appearance. Very few application of raising finish, is typically used in fancy fabric production.
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E. Pile polishing For w woolen fabrics, we need special type of treatment to remove a layer of fuzzy maters from the surface. Polishing layer and the pile yarns, make a nice look by opening the fiber. Is applied to goods such as carpets, velvet and blanket. F. Milling By taking advantage of felting wool property, the process is done. Is type of treatment for woolen fabrics by using felt to get better property. It is connected with air permeablty. In addition, more loosely woven fabrics gets a tight structure. 12.6.1.3 Mechanical Finishing Operations for synthetic fabrics 1.5.3.1 Steaming Is done for synthetic fabrics to give desired shape and form under high fixation temperature . During the process, finished goods is subject to size change . This finishing process can be done both before and after fixation. If finishing is done be before fixation process, the size variations are reduced. If fixation is done after finishing the desired dimensions of the fabric is provided.

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