Artistic Ladies' Tailor System

MAY.
'902
CLASS? CV XXC.
NO.
TO TAKE MEASURE.
aim** COPY
"
TO TAKE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.
BUST. Stand behind the ladyThis measure is taken over the most prominent point of the bust and take this well up over the shoulder blades in the back measure easy, " not tight," just so that the tape line
inch more put this measure down will be smooth than the tape line calls for " do not forget this. WAIST. Take this measure around the smallest part of the waist tight, and deduct one inch.
Stand behind the lady, place the center of the tape the back of the neck. Carry the ends forward over the shoulder, bringing them back under the arms (have the lady raise her arms slightly), and draw very snug straight across the back and place a pin or
line across
mark at the upper edge

of back, then
of the tape line, in the center
FRONT. From
add
1
measure from the large joint in the neck This measure must be taken to the pin or mark.
exactly as the instructions call for.
collar
bone to waist
line in front
Do
not deviate i
inch to this measure.

joint in
neck to waist line. measure well up under the arm and down to the waist line put this measure down " i inch less " than the tape line calls for. NECK. Around the bare neck easy. ARM'S EYE. Around the arm snug just over the
BACK From
of
an inch.
See special instruction for applying this

,
UNDER ARM. Take
measure.
this
Measure down line A from line B the height of shoulder measure and place dot X. Measure up line A from dot X 1 inch less than \ of the arm's eye measure and \ of the bust measure straight out and place dot Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line H to dot
1 1 1 1
.
point of the shoulder.
Finish the balance as per general instructions.
ARM MEASURE.
1st.
From
point of shoulder to point of elbow
the
Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have

a narrow back in proportion to their bust measure. Take the width of back measure., starting at the center of back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measuring to the arm hole (or where the arm hole should come). Use this measure instead of \ of the bust measure in locating dot Take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure. Should the width of back be 6 it would indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. Draft line E begin,
hand resting on the chest. From point of elbow to joint on wrist. 2d. 3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the shoulder with the arm bent take this measure
snug.
4th.
Around the
largest part of the
elbow
5th.
take this
measure
in
arm below the the same manner.
Around the hand
tight
SKIRT.
HIPS.
the waist
From waist line the length desired. Around the hips "easy" six inches
line.
ning at dot
2.
In drafting the front take the
differ-
below
ence between 42 and 36 (the measure used in drafting the back), which is 6. Now take of 6 4 and add this
TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.

back and under arm measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm measure nine inches it would indicate a high shoulder and dot should be only three inches from dot 9. Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for a 16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot should be 5 inphes^fro-m dot 9.. This prpportion will apply to othejf meaeureii-âr: initanca :*tf ".the back measure is 17, then the under arm measure should be
careful in taking
would make 46. Now use a 46 bust and 25 waist measure in drafting the front. Use these same proporto 42
tions in drafting for other measures.
Be very
the
IMPORTANT.The
actly as the
please anyone.
instructions
measure should be taken excall for do not deviate to The bust, waist and neck measures are
taken
in even inches for instance, should the waist measure be 23, put down 23 should it be nearest 22, put it down 22 take the bust and neck measure in the same manner.
See that the lady stands
natural and on both
feet.
Ask
if
she has the same clothing on that she intends
to wear the dress over,

corset.
and
especially inquire about the
9 inches.
^^"iV:\:l:\-.
*:..
To have a
perfect
fit
you must have a perfeet

it
measure.
If
you have any doubt about the measure take
TO MEASURE FOR CHILDREN.

and press down to the point of mps, and take the measure the same as for adults, except the waist measure, which is taken
Tie a cord around the waist tight
loose.
over again before the lady leaves.

or belt in
it will
Do
not use a cord
taking the measure (except for children) as
front.
short waisted in back and For a very full bust the front measure should be taken from 1$ to 2 inches longer than the tape line
calls for.
make your basque
These measurements are Copyrighted and must be used only
in connection
with our system.
\b~9Ql LUirev 'J
BUST
BUST
Waist
31
BUST
32
BUST
33
CENTER BACK.
inch fr m the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table according to size of neck dot 2 down line A fr m 'i ne B and place dot 2.
Draft lines
and
-'4'
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
For long shoulders

line
draft
Vx inch longer than
the proportionate shoulder
measure and place dot
Measure
from dot
in
I
straight
I
down
3/6
and
inch
and place dot 12. Use
letter
to draft line K.
Bust
...
3+
--
Waist Front
"
_.--....
-.
-
Back
14 16
8
Under Arm Neck Ann's Eve
_ - -
11
'
To Locate Dot
Arm's Eye Measure.
12,
12.
13 15 I?
and 14
"
<<
16

%
23/
182^
20 22
19
21
" "
3U&.C
For long
C SW\
SViA
BIAS DART.
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes l Place dot 9 on line E 1 /> inches from dot 6. Measure 1 yi, inches out from dot 13 and place new dot
:
13.
Place the
y mark on new
2
dot
13 and
draft to dot
15.
Draft line
parallel
1
with line N.
Measure
2 inches straight out
from dot ^ and place
new
dot 7.
Measure 3{ inch
Draft from dot
straight
to dot
up from new dot 1 and place dot X.

13.
Place the corner of square on dot the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot the length of under arm and place new dot 6. Place letter on dot and draft line E to new dot 6. Measure inches straight out from new dot ^ and place dot
A 3^
;
18.
Measure
inches straight
down from
dot
18 and
19.
place dot 19.
Place letter
on dot
and
draft to dot
Draft the shoulder the same as for a plain waist, making dot from line J} and drafting to new dot 6.
23
2 inches
up
For
dot
lines.
a stout lady
with high or
full
2 and
place a
new
dot
3/j[
shoulders, place a new dot 2 Y\ inch above inch above dot 3 and draft according to dotted
For slender forms take

See dotted
lines.
a small plait in the lining at the point
of the
bias
dart.
WAIST WITH ONE DART.

Draft the same as for a plain waist
down
to the darts, omitting line
E-
Measure )A inch from dot 8 on line f and place dot 10Place the }4 mark on dot 10 and draft line to dot 4. Extend line to meet line A 3 inches below dot 8-
Measure
Measure Measure
Place the
2^
1
inches from dot

less
inch
place dot 12straight
10 and place dot on line Fthan the combined width of both darts from dot 1 1 and
line
up from the center of the dart and place dot 14 on

draft line I to dot
V
2
G-
mark on dot \\ and

and
and
14.
Turn
the curve over
See diagram.
down. Measure inch in from dot ^ and place dot 15. Measure }< inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot X. Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line E to dot X. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches down from dot 6straight
Draft lines
draft line J.
Measure Measure
3 inches out
5 inches straight
Place letter
from dot 15 and place dot 18down from dot 18 and place dot 19. on dot 15 and draft line P to dot 19.
THE TAILOR-MADE DRESS.

There is just one way for a gentlewoman to dress when she goes on the street, and that is in a tailor-made suit, without ornamentation, but the perfection of fit and workmanship. There is somathing about the tailor dressed woman that
no matof Drafting Machines, Charts, and other contrivances for cutting ladies' dresses. Not one of them can properly cut a tailor fitting costume that can be done only on the material the same that a merchant tailor cuts for a man. First-class ladies' tailors do not use them. You cannot get the same results that you do from an actual tailor system. Investigate before you make an investment.
ter
commands respect. For business, shopping, or railroad You have the satisfaction of looking like a lady and being
where you
go.
travel,
it
has no equal.
treated as one,
TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM DOT WAIST MEASURE.

1
The
market
is
full
to
20
inches
" 22 23 " 2 4 25 " 2627 " 28 z 9 " 3 " 32 3 Above

21
1
2
-
VA
32 inches in same proportion. i-io of Waist Measure.
BIAS FRONT.
2 inches from the edge of cloth. one inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down from line B and place dot 2-
Draft line Draft line
line
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
This waist
is
very effective when the

It
bust is full with a small waist.
can be
cut with good effect on a true bias of both

lining and material.
Fifty (S50.00)
dollars
Reward
will be
paid for the conviction of any one infringing on any of our copyrights.
CENTRE BACK.
Draft
lines
and
H
'
mch from
in the
the
Measure the distance given line R and place dot 2.
edge and end of goods. neck table under dot 2 down line
from
NECK TABLE.
yk
1
Dot 2 Neck Size
H
J
7
3
,
12
i-H;
3
I 1 /.
iya
lM
iM
MEASURE.
Bust Waist
36 22
---
Front
Back
.-
14 16
8
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
12
16
SHIRT WAIST FRONT.

Draft line
A
B
1 '
Draft line
Y\ inches from the edge of cloth. mcn from the end of cloth.
in the
line
Measure the distance given B and place dot 2.
neck table under dot
2 down
line
from
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
MEASURE. Bust Waist Front
Back
34 22 14 16
8
11
16
Ivieasure 6 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 5s inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. and place dot Measure y of arm's eye measure straight down from dot
12.
Measure
3.^
inch
less
than the width of under arm form straight out from dot
12 and
length of under
6 the edge on dot 13 and measure up the arm and place dot 14Place the point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot \\. Place letter Q on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 6Draft lines F and (J the same as for a plain waist.
place dot 13Place the corner of square on dot
TIGHT FITTING SHIRT WAIST BACK.

Draft lines
A and B -/\ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line
from
line
and place dot 2-
Dot 2
36 24 14
16
8 11
Back
Under Arm Neck Arm's Kye
16
SHIRT WAIST BACK.

i.
Draft lines
and
Measure the distance given from line B and place dot 2'
2.
Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. in the neck table under dot 2 on
*
l'
ne
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
TWO UNDER ARM

For
ter of
all
SHAPES.
1%
Q on
inches from dot 4.
waist measures up to 32
make
the center of back
Place dot 5
Place letter
one inch.
For
1
all
waist measures over 32,
make
the cen-
dot 5 in drafting line A.
back
inches.
Place dot 7 straight up from 3

length of the
1
For example take 42 bust and 30 waist.
'2 inch more than tr. arm measure, and place dot 8 in frorr. under
The
table gives for the center of back,
inches
dot 2 only one inch.
For the side body, 3 inches. For under arm shape, $}4 inches.
Second under arm shape
Make
"
the following changes the back
Take from
" "
l />
inch.
" side body " front

1
'_
"
" "
4 straight up from dot 2 i arm measure. Place dot 5 one inch more than the under inch from dot 4 and place dot 7 straight up from dot 3 Place dot 8 but one the actual length of arm measure.
Draft the same, placing dot
.'
inch in from dot 2.
When
Total,
2
the style of goods will permit the two under arm
forms can be cut on a true bias, both lining, and material

with good effect.
Add
the width of under
arm shape,
Making,
3^
$}4
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE.

Bust
42
"
Waist
30
15
This gives two under arm shapes,

First
2^
inches each.
Front
under arm shape
Back Under Arm
17
8
ij
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes
:
Neck
Arm's Eye
17
FOR VERY LARGE LADIES.

BACK.
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the center of the back one inch and placing dot 12 but i}& inches from the end of line H.
FIRST SIDE BODY.
Draft the same as for'a plain waist, placing dot 5 dot 2 and placing letter P on dot 5 in drafting line B-
/^ inches from
SECOND SIDE BODY.

Draft the same, drafting a new line N straight out from dot 6 Place dot dot 5 inch from dot 2 and place dot 6 only one inch from dot 5. Place letter P on dot 2 to draft line A and place letter G on dot 5 to draft line B-
FIRST
UNDER ARM FORM.
same as for a plain waist, placing dot 7 inch more than the under arm measure down from dot 3 and place dot 8 only one inch
Draft the
2l
from dot
SECOND UNDER ARM FORM.

l Draft the same, placing dot 4 inch more than the under arm measure up" from dc t 2, and placing dot 7 the actual length of under arm measure up from dot 3See measure for practice.

Bust
50
Waist
Front
40
16
17

1
8
15 19
Back
Take from the

"
"
front, ...
inch.
"
Add
"
back, width of side body,. " under arm shape "
4^
"
This
will
Width
Total 10^ give the width of the side body, each of under arm shape, each 2^.
2%.
PRINCESS FRONT.
i.
A H
'
inches from the edge of cloth.

table (on
2. 3.
/i inch ^rom the en ^ of" cloth. Measure the distance given in the front neck
the
curve)
under dot
4.
(according to size of neck) on line
fr
line
Measure the distance given in the neck table dot 3 on line B and place dot 3Measure 2/% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X5. and draft line C to dot 3Place letter C on dot 6. Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A fr m ine 7.
and place dot 2. (on the curve) under
'
and
place dot 48.
Measure
'4 of the arm's eye
measure on
line
A from
line
and place
dot 59.
10.
Draft from dot
to
dot 5-
Draft line
straight out beginning
6 inches from dot 5less
Measure Bust number and Measure 12. and place dot 7Measure 1 3
11.
.
out line
from
dot
5 )i inch
than the table gives for
place dot
(J.
the length of under
arm measure
darts
straight
down from
in
dot
] of the width of both
straight
from dot 7 and
place dot 0Place letter 14.

15.
A
A
on dot
and
front
draft line
to dot 6-
Measure the length of APlace letter
measure
down from
draft line
dot
2 and
place dot
8 on
1
line
6.
(curve up) on dot
and
to dot 8-
17. 18.
Measure
2 inches
down from
dot
6 and
place dot 9-
line
Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot g and draft out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4Measure )i inch more than the table gives (for locating dot 10) on 19. line F from dot 8 and place dot 10the width of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot Measure 20.
]4
H.
21.
22.
dot 13.
Measure one inch from dot Measure }{, of the width of Measure
straight
H and place dot
12the second dot from dot

first
12 and
place
23.
24.
up from the center of the
dart to line
6 G
and
place dot 14.
Measure
straight
up from the center of the second
dart to line
and
place dot 15. Place the 25.
y2
26. 27.
28. 29.
Draft lines I, J and Draft lines L &

dart.
mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot K in like manner. to meet 6 inches and N &
H.
straight
down
from the center of the
from dot 3 and place dot 20from dot 20 and place dot 21on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Place letter 30. inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22straight down from dot 22 to line DDraft line 3'from line D and place dot 23Measure 1 y? inches up line 2 3 Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 2433Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 634on dot 24 arid extend line S to dot 22Place letter 35-
Measure Measure
6^
I
inches on line
^ inches straight down

A R
Stretch the front shoulder to meet the back.
For
dotted
line.
Low Cut
Corset line
should
be lowered
one inch.
See
PRINCESS FRONT.
V\ inches from the edge of the cloth. inch from the end of the cloth. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) 3. fr m line B and place dot 2according to size of neck, on line
1.
Draft line
'
2.
Draft line
Yt.
Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under dot 3 on 1'ne B and place dot 3Measure 3A inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X' 5. 6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3^ of arms eye measure down line A fr m line B and place 7.
4.
dot 48.
Measure
the arms
eye measure
down
line
fr
m D
''
ne
and
place dot 59.
Draft from dot
10.
to dot 5Place the corner of square
on dot 5 and
draft line
straight
out
beginning 6 inches from dot 5Measure out line D from dot 1 1

.
inch
less
than the table gives for
bust
number and
place dot
(J.
Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 12. and place dot 7Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 13. 8 on line APlace letter A (curve up) on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 81 4. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 915. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line 16.
out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4Measure 1 'X inches on line P from dot 7.
1
8 and
place dot 10-
18.
Measure
Jjj
the distance of the
first
dart
from dot
10 and
place
dot 11.
i9-
20.
and place dot 12Measure one inch from dot Measure V" the distance of the second dart from dot 12 and place
first
dot 13. Measure straight up from the center of the 21.

7-
dart
to
ine
and
inch out and place dot 1422.
Measure
Place the
straight
up from the center of the 2nd
dart
and
inch out
and place dot 1523.
24.
Draft lines
25.
mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14I, J and K in like manner. to meet 6 inches straight down from and N & Draft lines L &
V 2
the center of the darts.
26.
27.
28.
MEASURE.
Bust
29. 30.
36 24
15
of the width of both darts in from dot ^ and place dot and draft line E to dot 6on dot Measure one inch out from dot 7 and place dot 18Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19-
Measure
14
Plaee letter
Place letter
on dot
and
draft line
P
the
to dot
31.
32.
Place the corner of square on dot
19edge on dot
19 and con-
Waist
Front
tinue line
Back
16 8
12
Under Neck Arm's Eye
16
Measure 6 yi inches on line B fr m dot 3 and place dot 20Measure 1 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line 34. Q 1^ inch more than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D35. place dot 23 Measure 36. 2 inches up line R from line D and Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 2437. Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6 38. Stretch the Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 2239. For low cut corsets draft a new line G one front shoulder to meet the back.
33.
1
the length of skirt.
inch below line G-
Set dotted linei.
PRINCESS BACK.
1.
Draft line
A
B
'6 inches from the edge of cloth.

li inch fr
1.
Measure
Place the
5 inches straight
2.
Draft line
the
end
of
cloth.
12.
to dot 7-
down from dot 4 and place dot mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line
7-
Measure the distance given in back neck table (on the curve) under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr m H ne B and place dot 2Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on 4. line B from line A and place dot 3Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 35. 6. Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4Draft line D 4 inches straight out from dot 478. Measure 1 1^ inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure the distance given in the table for the width of center back 9from dot 5 and place dot 63.
13.
Place the corner of square (or Skirt Rule)

line
on dot 5 the
dot
edge on dot ^ and extend

14.
If fullness
5
is
desired in the skirt then measure in from
5 about
lines.)
1
1
or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F.
(See dotted
10.
Draft line
from dot
to dot 5-
Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and 17. draft line H 3^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 \.
5.
6.
down from
19. 20.
Measure the distance given in the table to locate dot 12 straight dot 11 and S/% inch in and place dot 12Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft to meet line D one inch in from
Place the 10 inch
dot 621.
mark on dot 6 and
draft
to
meet
line
6 in-
ches u P22.
2 3-
24line
Measure J^ inch out from dot 6 and place dot 13Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 13 and place dot 14. Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 14 and
draft
25-
Hold
the end of tape line
on dot 5 and
draft line
H.
SIDE BODY.
the edge of cloth for line GDraft line Yz inch from the end of cloth.
Use
Measure the distance straight down from dot 12 back -and then measure that distance down line G from
3.
to line line
in the
an d place
dot 2-
D straight out beginning 9 inches from dot 2Measure inches out line D from dot 2 an d place dot 3Measure Jf inch more than the table gives for the width of side body from dot 3 and place dot 4Measure V% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 an d place dot 57. 8. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the back and then
4-
Draft line
5-
measure that distance from dot 3 to

9.
line
and place dot 6line
Place letter
on dot 6 the edge of curve on
one inch out
from dot 3 and draft line to letter J on the curve. 10. Place the 7 inch mark on dot 3 and draft to the end of line AMeasure one inch out from 6 and place dot 71 1
.
2.
13.
1
4.
5.
16. 17.
18.
line
from dot 5 to dot 7)/ inches down line B fr m dot 7 and place dot 82 Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to dot 8Measure 2 inch out from dot 4 ar>d place dot 9Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 9 an d place dot 10Draft line
Measure
Place the ]/ mark on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 102 Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot 10 and extend
19.
20.
21.
line
Measure Measure
y
2
inches in from dot
inches straight
Place the corner of square

3 and place dot 11. down from dot \\ and place dot 12on dot 3 the edge on dot 12 and draft
draft line J.
22.
Hold
the
end of tape
line
on dot \\ and
UNDER ARM FORM BACK.

1
2. 3.
the edge of cloth for line GDraft line V? inch from the end of cloth.
Use
Measure
the distance
then measure that distance

4.
down
between dots 5 and 8 m tne side body and line G fr m line H and place dot X.
D straight out beginning 8 inches from dot XMeasure 12 inches from dot X and place dot 2 on line DMeasure on line D inch more than the table gives for the width 6. of under arm form out from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4 on line H7. 8. Measure 3< inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch more than the table gives for the width of under 9. arm form from dot 4 and place dot 6.
Draft line
5.
10.
1
I.
Draft line from dot 2 to dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot
6 and measure
up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7Draft line B from dot 3 to dot 71 2. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 713. H- Measure 3 inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9'5Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 916. Place the corner of square on line D ' }( inches in from dot 2 the i7edge on dot 9 and continue line E the length of skirt. Measure 1 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 1018. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. 19.
20.
21.
Place letter
on dot 3 and
draft line
to dot
H.
dot \\ and condots
10
the
edge on
tinue line
2 2.
the length of skirt. the end
Hold
of tape
line
on
line
half
way between
2 and
3 and
draft line J.
VIENNA WAIST.
A
B
I
>
'2
2
ncn frm the edge of goods. inches from the end of goods.
'
Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under doc 2 from line B on line A and place dot 2Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3Measure down line A * rom line B 3 of arm's eye measure and place dot 4 /i Measure down line A from line B }A arm's eye measure and place dot 5Place the corner ot square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out, beginning 6
inches from dot 5-
Measure out
line
from dot 5 the distance given
in the table for bust
num7-
ber and place dot 6-
Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 an d place dot Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8Place letter
on dot
an d draft line
to dot 7-
Measure Measure Measure
y inch out from dot
inch in
2 an d place new dot 2from dot 5 and place new dot 5of the
first
'j the distance
dart out from dot
8 an d
place
new
dot 8-
Place letter
Place letter Place letter Place letter
on n ew dot 2 an d (J on new dot 5 an d H on dot 4 and draft H on new dot 8 an d
draft to
new
dot 5-
draft to dot 4-
to
new
dot 8-
Measure
first
in
meet line 5 inches below dot 8from dot 7 'he width of the second dart and l 2 the width of the
draft to
dart and place

I
new
dot
dot 7-
Measure
Draft line
inches straight
fr
down from 6 and

draft to dot 9-
place dot 9-
to 9-
Place letter
on
new
dot
7 an d
Measure 6 l/ inches out line B from dot 3 an d place dot 202 Measure 3_j^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. Measure 2 inches up line R from line D an d place dot 23Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 24inch in from dot Place letter D on dot 24 an d draft line S to meet line B
1
'
K n dot 24 and continue line S to the end of line Q. Extend line A 1 'J inches up from line B and place dot 25' Measure 5 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26Measure \ inch out line B fr m line A and place dot 27Place the corner of square on dot 27, tne edge on dot 26 ar| d draft line f? out about 20 inches. Place letter B on new dot 2 and draft line C through dot 3 t0 line T. Measure on line T from line C the length of back and place dot 28Place the corner of square on dot 28, the edge on line T and draft line \J out 10 inches. inch less than the combined width of cenMeasure out line U from dot 28 ter-back side body and under arm forms and place dot 29Place the corner of square on dot 22, the long arm parallel with line X and
Place letter
'
place dot
30
the distance given in the table according to arm's eye measure.
MEASURE.
Bust
Arm's eye measure

3 ?4
>5
Waist Front
Back Under arm

.
Neck
Arm's Eye
16 8 12 16
SEAMLESS WAIST.
Fifty
($50 00) dollars Rewa.d
will be
paid for the conviction of any one infringing on
any
of
onr copyrights.
0)
Measure the width of

dot |1.
dart (as given in
the
table) from
dot
10 and
place
Measure
straight
up from the center of the dart and place dot 12 on

darts.
line
Q.
Draft lines Place letter
H
C
and I the same as other on dot 2 and draft line
to dot 3-
Measure 6*4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20Measure I r/ inches straight down from dot 20 ano place dot 21. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21, and draft
"
line
j4
inch
less
than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Draft line
R
i
i
Measure Measure
inch up line
Place letter
Place letter
the end of line Q to line Dfrom line D an d place dot 23. inch straight in from dot 23 aI>d place dot 24. C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q.
straight
down from
SAILOR BLOUSE
For Ladies or Children.
FRONT.
Draft a plain front and add 4 inches line E to dot 6.
to the waist line
from dot ^ and
draft
Omit
darts
and cut 6 inches below the waist
line.
BACK.
Draft
draft line
the
Berlin
to dot
back and add

14-
2 ]4 inches to the waist line
from dot
and
Cut 6 inches below
the waist line.
FOR VERY FULL FORM.

This diagram shows the changes necessary
back.
for a
very
full
bust and
narrow
The
changes
dotted lines
show
the
ordinary drafting,
the
heavy
lines
showing the

Bust
42
z5
Waist
Front
17
.
Back
17
Under Arm
Height of Shoulder Width of Back
9 6
'5 '9
j/(,
Neck Arm's Eye

For a regular form the width of the back should be This width of back is 6 inches, indicating that the back
ure.
of the bust measure.

for
a 36 bust meas36 bust measure and a 25 waist measure for drafting the back. Now take the difference between 36 (the measure that you are using) and 42 2 Take /i of 6, which (the actual measure) which you will find to be 6. would be 4, and add to the regular measure 42 -which would make 46. Now use a 46 bust measure and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. Measure 1 y^ inches up from dot 2 n line A and 1 inch straight out and place new dot 2. Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C extending 1 ^
is
Take
inches above dot 3-
[See diagram.]
Place
dot
dot 4.
line
Plate letter
mark on dot
and an d continue the curved

inches
on dot
draft to
line
new
X Y
inch straight in
Place the
5
from
inch
dot 2.
/
x
about
at
down.
[See diagram.]
inch out from dot 8, meeting Take alj^ inch dart in the
[See diagram.] In locating the darts measure from the 5. curved line in, locating dot 10. Draft the darts so that the point meets one
lining
dot
inch above line G. Measure I j4 inches straight up from dot 22 and draft the shoulder from the end of line C V\ inch longer than the proportionate shoulder
measure and baste a

bastings
after
inch dart in the center of the shoulder and remove the

is
the
shoulder
stitched.
[See
diagram.]
Also
baste
inch
dart in the arm's eye [see diagram] and remove the basting after stitching.
FRENCH SLEEVE.
Draft lines
and
Measure
Measure
2
T
/
l I
2 the
hand measure out
V\ inch from the end and edge of goods. line B from line and place dot 2.
y, inches on line
from line
and place dot 3-
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line inches less than the hand measure.
ut
line
Measure y, inch more than the measure from elbow B and place dot 4.
Measure
I
to wrist
on
line
fro'" 1
J^ inches straight out
from dot 4 and place dot 5.
Measure
straight out
inches less
than the measure around the arm below the elbow-

Q,
Place letter
on dot 5 and
draft line
less
to dot 3.
Measure up line A 4's inches from dot 4 and place dot 7Place letter
than the measure from shoulder to elbow
on dot 5 and
draft line
li
to dot 7.
Measure
inches from dot 7 on
ne
and place dot 8-
Draft line
straight out
from dot 8less
Measure out line F fr m dot 8 inch arm below the shoulder and place dot 9-
than
>
_,
the measure around
the
Measure
shoulder on line
inch
more than
\i
the measure around
the
arm below the
from dot
less
9 and
place dot
10
Measure
line
inch
than the measure around the arm below the shoulder on

place dot \\.
fr
dot
1
8 and
Measure
inch straight
Measure
B.
Place the
3^
inches straight
down from down
dot
10 and
place dot 12.
from dot
1
and place dot 13.
point of curve on line
F F
inch in from dot
9 and
draft line
to
dot 7Place the

to dot
X
J
l
point of curve on line
inch out from dot
9 and
draft line
12.
Place letter
on dot 12 and
draft line \ to dot 13.

2
!
Draft line
from dot 13 extending
inches below dot 6.
Measure
inch straight in from the end of line
and place dot 14.

t0 dot
Place the point of curve on dot

Place letter
6 and
draft line
line
K
[
14
(J-
on dot 14 and continue

lines
t0
he end of line
C, 6,
Allow seams on
D, E, J and R\
Cut on
lines
and
I.
UNDER PART.
<ot
m\
A and B l inch from the edge and end of cloth. A Measure )A the hand measure on line B from line A and place dot 2Measure y inches on line A fr m H ne B and place dot 3Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 2, and draft line C 2 inch more than î of hand measure from dot 3Measure y? inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A from line B and place dot 4Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5the measure around the arm below the elbow Measure 2 inch more than
Draft lines
1
'
straight
from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft
line
to dot 3-
oo
SLEEVE MEASURE. Shoulder to Elbow Elbow to Wrist Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow
.
Measure \ l {, inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow trom dor \ on line A and place dot 7Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7Measure I \ 2 inches on line A h" om dot 7 and place dot 8the measure around the arm below the shoulder inch more than Measure out from dot 8 and place dot 9"lace letter n dot 7 and draft line F t0 dot 9-
+
I
10
I
10
8
Around Hand
'
Draft line
fr
dot
to dot 6draft line
G on dot 6 and Allow seams on lines D, E,

Place letter
to the
and
end ot line (JCut on lines C and f.
Sti the elbow (or the fullness can be removed. top over aoout 3 the sleeve smooth on the table, told the Lay Jotted lines). to the elbow about 2 inches. inches from the elbow up and from the hand up inches in space together at the elbow, taking up about 2 bring the fullness come together and baste up and See that dots 5 a gathering thread.
This sleeve
is
gathered
at
Now
and run in down from dot 5-
THE PRATT SLEEVE.

Draft lines
A
C
and
line
Measure out Measure up

Draft line
line
B H inch from the ed g e and end of cloth B from line A ', the hand measure and place inches and place dot 3. A from line B
'
dot 2.
'
from dot 2 from Measure up line u rist and place dot 4-
to dot 3line
'.'
inch
more than
the measure from
elbow
to
Measure Measure
2 inches straight out from dot

straight
4 and
out from dot

the
inches
place dot 5. more than
>
ot the
measure
elbow and place dot 6around the arm below dot 3. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to 1 inches less than the measure Measure up line A from dot
""
sh U ' der
-'
to
elbow and place dot 7. Place etter H on dot 5 and
draft line
Measure up
Draft line
line
arm inch less than >, the measure around Measure out line F from dot 8 below shoulder and place dot 9. less than the measure around arm Measure out line F from dot 8 % inches below shoulder and place dot 10. ..,-., dot 10 and place dot \\ Measure 3 inches straight down from inches in from dot 9 and draft line point of the curve on line F * Place the
>
,
A from dot 75 straight out from dot 8.
E to dot 7. inches and P lace dot
in
G
Sate
lineH
the
X
H A
point of the curve on line

.
F
\
* inches out
from dot 9 and
draft
to dot
11.
Place letter
Place letter
on Jot 11 and draft line J to dot b. to dot 2 on dot 6 and draft line
Allow
for
seams on
lines
D, E, J and
Cut on
lines
C,
and
fl
UNDER PART OF SLEEVE.

Draft lines
inch from the edge and end of cloth A and B hand measure and place dot 2. Measure out line B from line A V2 the from line B % inches and place dot 3. Measure up line A dot 2 and draft the square on dot 3, the edge on
Place the corner of
line
C
to
1
,
inch
less
than
"Measure up
wrist
line
of hand measure from dot 3. . inch more than the measure from elbow from line B
and place dot 4. _ , and place dot 5. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 the measure around arm less than Measure straight out from dot 5 '2 inch below elbow and place dot 6. line D to dot 3 Place letter G on dot 5 and draft inches less than the measure from shoulder Measure up line A from dot 4-4 % to elbow and place dot 7. line E to dot 7. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft from dot 7 ^2 inches and place dot 8Measure up line A less than V, the measure around urn Measure straight out from dot 8 % inch dot 9. below shoulder and place draft line F to dot g. Place letter K on dot 7 and and draft line G ' d t 9. on dot 6 Place letter line H to the end of inch above dot 6 and draft on line Q letter
.
W
A
Place
SLEEVE MEASURE. Shoulder
to
Elbow
below Shoulder below Elbow
-
"aL
for
seams on
lines
D) E,
and
Cut on
lines
C and F.
Elbo(V to Wrist
10
'
Around Arm Around Arm Around Hand
'
For Cloak or Coat.-Add measure. una y inch to the hand 2
inch to the
first
arm and second measure, .round
is
ca
CHILD'S
Draft lines
SLEEVETOP.
line
the hand measure on l.ne B horn Measure d Pla (according Me asureShe distance given in the table under dot 3 place dot 3. sleeve) on line A fr m line B and
and
B %
inch from edge and end of cloth
inch more than
and
of
to length
TABLE.
Length of Sleeve
13-14 ,5-16 17-n 19-20
Dot 3 Dot 5
*%
3
lU
4
VA *X
Dot?
1'
DoTl2~
Draft line
from elbow to wrist on line A Measure 1 inch more than the measure place dot 4line R and u r under dot 5 (according to length ot Measure the distance given in the table straight from dot 4 and place dot 5. sleeve around the arm below the elbow Measure \ inches more than * the measure and P ,ace dot 6straight from dot 5 line D to dot 3. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft (Jess the distance given m the distance from shoulder to elbow Measure the and place dot 7. from dot 4 table under dot 7) on line A and place dot 8. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 7 line E to dot 5. Place letter G on dot 8 and draft dot 7 on lme A from dot 7 and inch more than the table gives tor Measure
,.
1
from dot 2
to dot 3.
place dot 9. Draft line
F
.
straight out
from dot 9.
the measure around the
Measure
inches
more than ]/ 2
c u,,u Pr arm belou shoulder
"
1
KIT? VZL^lrt^t ^ li *- * **> F 1 Wôf

Measure
the curve on line
arm below
*
.
,
the shoulder on line
from
dot
12
straight
down from
inch in from dot
10 and
draft line
to dot 8-
Place letter
Draft line I Place letter
on dot 10 and draft line H to dot \i. from dot 12 to dot 6. dot 2. G on dot 6 and draft line J to
lines
<n
Allow seams on
D, E,
and J.
Cut on
lines
C,
and H.
UNDER PART.
Draft lines
Measure line A and place dot

Length of Sleeve
edge and end of goods. and V? inch from around the hand on line inch more than 4 the measure
horn
1.
TABLE.
13
14
16
18I19 zc
i)<6
Dot 2 Dot 4
1*
^
*%
H
3^
'X
to length
Dot 6
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE 8 YEARS. Shoulder to Elbow Elbow to Wrist Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow Around Hand
under do, 2 (according Measure the distance given in the table from line B and place dot 2. leeve) on line A
of
9%
7 J4
8
- -
2 y
8
7
inch
Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge l less than 2 the hand measure.
on dot 1
and
draft line
2 y
Measure
line
inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line
from
an d place dot 3.
the distance given in the table under dot
Measure
(according to length of
sleeve) straight from dot
3 and
place dot 4straight
dot
Measure y, the measure around the arm below the elbow 4 and place dot 5.
out
from
Place letter JJ on dot
4 and
draft line
D
to
to dot 2.
Measure the distance from shoulder

table
elbow
less
the distance given in the
under dot 6 (according
to length
of arm) on
line
from dot
3 and
place
dot 6.
Place letter JJ on dot
6 and
draft
line
to dot 4-
Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the upper part of sleeve and then measure that distance on line A from dot 3 and place dot 7-
Measure 2 the measure around 7 and place dot 8.

Place letter
the
arm below shoulder
straight out
from dot
on dot 6 and
draft line
to dot 8-
Draft line
from dot 8
dot
to dot 5-
Place letter
M on
5 and
D. E,
draft line
to the
end of
lines
line
(J-
Allow seams on
lines
and H-
Cut on
C and
F.
SHIRT-WAIST SLEEVE.
Draft line
inch from edge of goods.
Draft line B straight out from line around the arm below the shoulder.
6 inches
more than
the measure
Place dot 2 in the centre of line B.
Measure straight out from dot 2 Vi inch less than yl of hand measure and place dot 3. Measure straight in from dot 2 % inch less than of hand measure
and place dot 4. Measure up line sleeve and place dot

Draft line
A
5.
from
line
l /i
inches less than the length of
C from dot 4
to dot 5.
D
E
straight out
from dot 5 the same length as

line
line B.
from the end of

line
D
5
to dot 3-
Measure down Measure

SLEEVE MEASURE.
Shoulder to Elbow
14 10
-
C from dot 5
inches less than the measure from
shoulder to elbow, and place dot 6straight out
from dot 6 one inch and place dot

from the end of line D to elbow and place dot 8.
7less
Measure down line measure from shoulder
inches
thaD the
Measure
straight in
from dot 8 one inch and place dot
9.
Elbow
to Wrist
Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow

Around Hand
11
10
8
R on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 5. Place letter U on dot 7 and extend line F to dot 4. Reverse the curve and draft line G from the end of line D to dots 9 and 3. Measure in from the end of line D i of the measure around the arm below shoulder and place dot 10. Measure straight up from dot 10 }{ the measure around arm below shoulder and place dot H.
Place letter
'
T on the end of line D and draft line H to dot 11. Measuie out line D from dot % inch more than y& the distance between dots 5 and 10 and place dot 12. Hold end of tape line on dot 12 and draft a curved line from dot 11
Place letter
to dot 5.
CLOAK NO.
Draft
line
6}4 inches from

line
the edge of goods.
Draft line
in
Vz
inches from the end of goods.

table
Measure
line
the
distance given
the
neck
unde- dot 2 on
from
and piace dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
MEASURE.
Bust.
36
24 14 16
8
Waist Front
Back
12 16
CLOAK NO.
Draft line
2.
Draft line
in the
x B ' /l inches neck table under
A A
3 inches
from the edge of goods.
from the end of goods. fr line dot 2 on l' n e
Measure the distance given and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
Up
Measure
line
inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust
number on
dot

\2
Measure
inch ess than the length of under arm straight

l
down from
and place dot 7. Measure 2 inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. Place letter H n dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7.
Measure
'4 inch less
than the width of the
first
dart in from dot
7 on
line
p and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X. Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot 6 and measure up the length of under arm measure and place new dot 6. Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line D. Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot an d draft line Q out
3 inches,
inches from dot 4. Measure I- 10 of the waist measure on line
beginning
fr
dot
8 and
place dot 10.
Add
dot
'
\2
inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance from
place dot
the
10 and
H.
inch, then measure that distance on line
between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add y2 G from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the j mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14. Draft lines J and R to meet 1 2 inches below the center of the dart. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Measuure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 17. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line flj to dot 17. Measure Jj inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25. Measure y^ inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26. Draft lines T and JJ to meet 4 inches below dot 2. Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round
Measure
distance
edge).
Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. Measure 2 2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A n dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22.
-'4
inch
Draft line
Measure Measure
R straight down from dot V inches up line R from 2

inch straight in from dot
22
line
to
l'
ne D.
and place dot 23.

draft line
Place letter
23 and place dot 24. on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and C
on dot
to dot
No.
5.
6.
Place letter
R
P
24 and
Measure
Draft line
2 inches straight in
extend line S to dot 22. from the end of line B and place dot 27.
}jf to
Place letter
from dot 26 to dot 27. on dot 27 and draft line
meet the edge of goods
7 inches
down.
CLOAK NO.
Draft line
5.
l /2 inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot
Draft line
dot 2.
A B
3
'
2 n
line
and place
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
REINACH'S
LIST OF
IMPORTED JOURNALS
FOR DRESSMAKING
Price per Price per Year 6 months
LA
MODK ARTISTIQUE
With Albums
-IS-
00
2 4- 00
The same
without
Albums
20.00 24.00
12.00
LE LUXE
WIENER CHIC COSTUME ELEGANT, COSTUME ELEGANT,

LE GOUT PARISIEN
I.
II.
CHIC PARISIEN,
CHIC PARISIEN,
I.
II.
CLOAK BACK.
Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on from line B and place dot 2NECK TABLE.
line
Dot 2
MEASURE.
Bust Waist Front
-
36
22
Back
14 16
8
12 16
SAILOR COLLAR.
Draft line
Draft line
A
B
'
ncn from the edge of goods.

given in
the
front
inches from the end of goods.

distance
from
Measure the line B and Measure the from line A and
neck table under dot 2 on

line
A
B
place dot 2. distance given
in
the
front
line
and place dot 4. and B. the edge on dot corner of square on the junction of lines Place the and draft line C out 6}4 inches. dot 3, extending to hue G. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line D through and draft line E out +*4 inches Place the edge of square even with line C
line (J.
place dot 3. 2 inches up from line BExtend line Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line
A A
from the end of
Measure
3 inches
down
line
from dot
2 and
place dot 5.
Draft line
Place letter
inches straight out from dot 5. ot line on curve, 1 l 2 inches straight up from the end
and
end of line E. draft line G from the end of line F to the will be no seam. Place line C on the fold of goods and there makes a very nice square or round yoke. This collar
MEDICI COLLAR.
Draft lines
and B )i inch from the edge and end of goods. dot 2. Measure ]/ the neck measure on line A from line B and place 2 Measure 4 inches on line B fr m line A and place dot 3.
2^
*~
Measure 4 inches on Place letter F on dot
line
from dot
3 and
place dot 4.
and draft line C to dot 3. from line B and place dot 5. of the neck measure on' line Measure ], Measure zj& inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6dot 3. Place letter V on dot 6 and extend line D to inches down from dot 2 on line A and place dot 7. Measure 1
Measure
Place
the
point of curve on dot
from dot ^ and place dot 8. 2 and draft line E to dot 8 (use the round
Place the
8 and
continue line
to dot
4.
COAT COLLAR.
Draft lines
A
1
and
inch from the edge and end of goods.

line
Measure
place dot 2.
inch
more than }4 of neck measure on
from
line
and
Measure
inches on line
from
line
and place dot 3.
to dot 2. Place letter 6 on dot 3 and draft line C dot 4. Measure j4 inch on line A from dot 2 and place straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure 2 inches
Draft line
D
3 */i 2
from dot 2
to dot 5.
Measure Measure
inches out line inches straight
from dot 3 and place dot 6

dot
down from
draft line
6 and
place dot 7-
HZ
Place letter Place letter
M
1
on dot 5 and draft line

dot
N on
7 and
E to dot 7F to dot 3.
STANDING COLLAR.
2 A inch more than y the neck measure. line ADraft line B lH inches straight out from place dot Measure 2 inches on line B from line A and
Draft line
2.
Draft line
inches straight out from the end of line Aand place dot 3. Measure 2 inches out line C from line from the end of line C to the end of line Draft line from line C and place dot 4. inch on line 1
Measure
Draft line
Place
Place letter
E from dot 3 to dot 4. F on dot 4 and draft line F letter F on dot 3 and draft line G
collars are drafted
to dot
to the junction ot lines
and
These
on the right
bias of the goods.
COAT NO.
BACK.
i.
6.
A and B -'4 inch from the edges and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on from line B and place dot 2.
Draft lines
2.
line
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
UNDER ARM.
Measure 3 inches from dot 4 and place dot 2. from as given in the table Measure the width of the under arm dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and 3. then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure \A inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 4. Measure the width of 'he under arm straight out from dot 4 and 5.
1
2.
place dot 6.
6. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7. Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. 7. 8. Place letter U on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. 910. Measure 3/^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. 1 1. I z. Place the < ., mark on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. Measure 3^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. '3Meaaure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot I. 14. Place the l 2 mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot I I
I I
FRONT.
1.
Draft line
A 4
2.
3.
Draft line B Vi inch from the end of cloth. of neck measure inch less than X Measure
on
line
A from
line
line
B and place dot 2. Measure \4 inch 4.

line
less
than
y^
of the neck measure on
B from
A and
5.
place dot 3.
Place letter C on dot
2 and
draft line
to
dot 3.
6.
Measure Measure
3/
of arm's eye measure on
line
A from A from
draft
line
B and place
dot 4.
72 y
the arm's eye measure on line
line
B and place
straight out
dot 5.
8.
Place the corner
of square on dot
5 and
line
beginning 6 inches from dot 5.

9.
Measure the distance of the Bust number on Measure the length

ot
line
D from
dot
dot 5 and
place dot 6.
10.
under arm
straight
down from
6 and
)/*
inch in and place dot 7.

I I.
1
2.
'314.
Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8. and draft line F to dot 8. curve up Place letter A on dot 7 Measure 1-10 of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place
dot
10.
15.
Measure
\-i
1
inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot
1.
10 and place dot
Measure the distance from dot 8 to the center of the dart and then 1 6. measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the x 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. 17. Place letter Z on dot 14 and draft line I to dot II. 18. Draft lines J and K straight down from dots 10 and I I. 19. Measure 1 3^ inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18. 20.
21.
Measure
Place the
inches straight
down from
dot 18 and place dot 19.

to
36 24
75 16
8
i
22. 23line
V 2
Place letter
5
mark on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19. l G on line C /y inch out from dot 2 and draft
meet
inches above dot 8.
Back
24.
2 j.

.
Draft straight in to the edge of cloth from dot 2. * rorn dot Place the corner of square j ' nc ^
2 inches
line
16
26. 27. 28.
m 2 and draft to meet down. Measure 6 V inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20. 2 Measure 1 j/ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of" curve on dot 21 and draft line Q
Q
to l'ne D.
yi inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down frjm the end of line 29.
Measure 1 '? inches up line R frcm line D and place dot 23. Measure 3^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 3on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. Place letter 32Place letter K on dot 24 and draft to the end of line Q. 33The Front can be finished any style desired. See dotted lines. For long shoulder extend line Q x 2 inch.
30.
CLOAK NO. 7 BACK.

B
A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line and place dot 2'
Draft lines
from
line
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
CLOAK NO. 7 FRONT.

4 inches from the edge of cloth. 1 ' /t. inches from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on and place dot 2Draft line
Draft line
A B
line
fr
m me
'
NECK TABLE
Dot 2
ETON BACK.
Draft linesA and
Measure the distance given and place dot 2-
of cloth. Y\ inch from the edge and end in the neck table under dot 2 on 'ine
fr
line
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
36
24
...
15
Back
-._..-...
'6
8 12
'
Measure
place dot 7-
y
2
inch
less
than under arm length straight
down from
dot
R and
dot 9Place letter curve.
Measure y, inch out line D from dot 6 and plrce dot XMeasure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 and place
on dot 9 and
draft line
to dot
beginning
at the
point of r
length ot under
inches beginning 3 inches from dot 4. Measure one tenth of the waist measure
9, the edge on dot 6 and measure up the arm and place new dot 6Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches' below line D Place the corner of square on dot and draft line G out 3 4, the edge on dot
on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance on line h-om dot 10 and place dot H.
Add
edge
Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add U, inch then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. Place the j mark on dot 10 and draft line to dot 14. Turn the curve over and draft line from dot 1 to dot I 1 14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15. Measure inch toward line from dot 15 and place dot 16. Draft line J from dot 10 to dot 16. Draft line parallel with line J. Measure inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25 Measure inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26Draft lines T and to meet 4 inches below dot 2Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line to dot (use the round
% %
Measure by, inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20 Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21 Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line
less
than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22Draft line straight down from dot to line
Yl inch
Measure Measure
dot 6. Place letter
Rand place dot 23inch straight in 1 23 and place dot 24Place letter C on dot 24, the edge of curve on line D and draft
1
22
inches on line
from from dot
line
line
to
new
K
2
Measure Measure
Place
dot 27Draft line
% 2 y
Q
letter
on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 27. inches straight in from dot 8 and place dot 28 on dot 27 and draft line to dot beginning
28,
inch above
from dot 26 to the end of line VFinish as desired below the waist line.
For Bolero Jacket follow dotted
lines.
GIRL'S CLOAK
Draft line
A 2%
R
1
inch from the end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot and place dot 2-
Draft line
2 on
line
from hne
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2 Neck Size
Dot 3
Measure
l
H '* *A 2 % \*U A 1%
l
10
13
\i
H
2 and
2 3/
Â
the distance given in the neck table under dot
and place dot 3Place the point ot curve on dot

draft line
3 on
dot
A )% line R from
l
line
edge).
to
Tuse the round
'
line
Measure 2 inch more than B and place dot 5-
the
arm
eye measure
down
line
from
Draft line
D
1
straight out,
beginning 4 inches from dot 5-
number on line D fr m dot 5 and place dot (J. Measure 2 inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure the length of front on line A frm dot 2 an d place dot 8Measure
inch more than the table gives for bust
Draft line
p
I
from dot
to dot 7-
Measure
inch more than the table gives for front waist from dot
)
8 on
'>
ne
and place dot
Place the \2
mark on dot 9 and
draft line
t0 dot 8.
Measure Measure
place dot 16. 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17to dot 17Place the 2 mark on dot 9 and draft line
1
2 y
inches out from dot
9 and
Measure 6 A inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20Measure ij^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3, tne e dge of curve on dot 21, and draft
inch
less
line
^2
end of line Q to line Di D and place dot 231 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6Place letter on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. Measure I inch in on line B fr m line A and place dot 25Place the point of curve on line C 2 inches below dot 2 and draft line extending inch above dot 25Place the point of curve on the end of line T and draft to meet the edge goods 3 y, inches down.
Draft line
straight
down from
the
Measure Measure
inch up line
from
line
T
of
BACK.
Draft lines
and
inch from the edge and end of goods.

in the table
Measu-e the distance given

and place dot 2-
under dot
2 down
line
fr
''
ne
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
Years.
MEASURE. Bust.. Waist Front
28
.
25
9^2
1 1
Back
2 y
i/j"
5
.
.
10
13
CHILD'S
Draft lines
COAT BACK.
B from
line
A and B 3^ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure t/i inch down line A from line B and place dot 2.
Measure
place dot 3.
y2
inch
less
than j^ of neck measure on line
A and
on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place
Place the point of curve
dot 4.
Draft line D straight out from dot 4. Measure one inch on line D from dot
4 and
place dot 5.
6.
JO
Measure
of waist measure from dot
5 and place dot

meet
line
Draft line E from dot

Place letter
to dot 5.
draft line F to
N on dot 5 and
inches below
dot 4.
Measure 6]4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft
inch
line
than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot l Measure / of arms eye measure straight down from dot
less
I.
I
I
and place
dot 12.
JO
52
.^
[2
J*
Measure 3^ inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. and draft line J to dot 13. Place letter D on dot Place letter F on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 13. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 14. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 15. Place letter Z on dot 15 and draft to the end of line F.
1 1 I
15.
UNDER ARM.
Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 14 and place dot 2. Measure J^ inch less than }i of waist measure on line D from dot 2 and
place dot 3.
Measure the distance between dot 6 and 13
in
the back and then meas-
ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure one inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5.
MEASURE,
Bust
YRS.
26
24
Measure
place dot 6.
the distance
between dots 2 and 3
straight
out
from dot 4 and
Waist
Front
8^
11
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up from dot 3 the length of the under arm measure and place dot 7.
Place letter Place
Back
4^
10
12
Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot G on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3.
2.
Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. Measure one inch in from dot 2 and place dot 8.
Measure 51^
inches straight
down
Place letter S on dot 2 and draft E to dot 9. Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10.
Measure 5%" inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line F to dot II. Place letter T on dot 9 and draft to dot II.
II.
CHILD'S CLOAK FRONT.

Draft line
3
1
Draft line B
*
J^ inches from the edge of goods. inch from the end of goods.
'
Measure y of the neck measure down line A from Measure 2 inch less than y^ of neck measure on
place dot 3.
line
B and place dot

B from
line
2.
line
A and
Place letter
B on dot 3 and
arm's
ot the
Measure
'; ot the
draft line C to dot 2. eye measure on line A
from
line
line
B and place
dot 4.
Measure the length

place dot 5.
under arm measure
down
A from dot 4 and
Draft line F straight out from dot 5. Draft line
straight out beginning 4 inches
from
line dot 4.
Measure y^ of the Bust measure on line D from dot 4 and place dot 6. Measure one inch more than y of Bust measure on line F from dot 5 and
place dot 7.
Place letter G on dot
Measure Measure
2^
5
6 and draft line E to dot 7. inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8.
V? inches straight
down from
G
dot
8 and
place dot 9. dot 9 to the edge of
Place letter S on dot 7 and draft line
to dot 9.
Hold end
goods.
of tape line
on dot 3 and
draft line
H from
Measure 6}i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 10. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot and place dot Place letter A on dot 3, the edge of curve on dot and draft
1 I I I
line
inch
less

the end of line Q to line D. R from line D and place dot 12. point of curve on dot 12 and draft line $ to dot 6. K on dot 12 and continue line $ to the end of line Q. inches straight in from the junction of lines A and B and place
line
Draft line R straight

Place the
Place letter
down from
Measure y inch up
MEASURE
Bust
Measure
6 YRS.
dot
13.
26
Measure
inches straight in from dot

draft to dot
draft to
4 and
14.
place dot 14.
Waist Front
.
24
8 i/ A
Draft from dot 2 to dot 13.

Q on dot 13 and
R on dot 14 and
the junction
ot
line
G and the edge
Back
11
of goods.
424
10 12
UNDER ARM.
Place the long
arm of square on
line
A N
D
(in the back) the short
arm on
doi
12 and
draft line
straight
from dot 12line
Measure
Measure
3 inches
3
from dot 12 on
and place dot 2-
inches from dot
6 on
line
and place dot 3extending, 3^ 'nch below dot 3line
Place letter
on dot 2 and
draft line
to the
Draft from the end of line
end of
in the back.
Measure )A inch more than y^ the combined width of center-back, and under arm form on line D from dot 3 and place dot 4Measure the width of under arm form,
line
side
bodv
as given in the table,
from dot 2 on
and place dot 5-
dot 4
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 5, and measure up from '4 inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 6Place letter Place the
M on
dot
6 and
draft
line
to dot 4line
X
yi
5
l
point of the curve
Measure
on dot 2 and draft inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7-
to dot 6-
Measure
inches straight
down from
draft line
dot 7 and -place dot 8-
Place letter
on dot
and
to dot 8-
CAPES
A B
'
inch from the edge of cloth.
inches from the end of cloth.

in the
Measure the distance given
line
from
line
and place dot 2-
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
CIRCULAR CAPE
The
goods
neck measure and length are
are
all
the measures that are necessary.

a
It
the
wide
the
enough
fold
to
cut
without
that
seam
then
fold
the goods
and
measure
Place dot
up
the
length
you wish the cape and place dot 2Stick a pjn through
at
/i
f tne neck measure from dot 2line
the end of the tape
and
in
dot
an d draft a curved line beginning

line,
dot
2the goods
Without removing the pin or tape

the length that
measure
draft a
down
curved
the fold of
line.
It
you wish the cape and

to
the goods are not

in the place
wide enough
this
cut
a
without a seam then use the selvedge
of the fold,
will
make
seam
in the
center of the back
only.
Allow
for
seam
in cutting out.
CAPUCHIN HOOD.
Draft lines
and
'2
inch from edge and end of cloth.

'-C
Measure
l/
inch less than

2-
of
neck measure on
line
from
line
and place dot
Measure j inch less than ){ of neck measure on line B from and place dot 3Measure 3^4 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4-
line
Measure |6 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 5Place letter
5-
Measure Measure
Measure
14.1-2
1
on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 3inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7-
6-
inches on line
straight
from dot 7 and place dot 8place dot 9line
Measure 8 inches
Place letter
to the yi
down from dot 8 and
K
G G
on dot
7, the
edge of curve on dot 9 and draft
mark on
the curve.
Measure
inch straight in from the end of line
D and
place dot 10
Place letter
Place letter
on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 3j4 inches up. on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 10-
RED RIDING HOOD.

Draft lines
and B
inch
2-
inch from edge and end of goods. than
Measure
line
3^
less
the
neck measure on
line
and from
and place dot
Measure
l neck measure on line B from line A and place dot /i. the Measure io 1^ inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5-
3-
Measure
Place the
l/%
inch straight in from dot 5 and place dot 6point of curve on dot 6 and draft line
to d6t 2.
Place letter
Measure
5 B from dot 3 and place dot T. Measure 10 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot
on dot 6 and l /> inches on line
draft to dot 3-
8-
on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 8Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter Place the
8 inch
line
9-
mark (on the curve) on dot

to the
8, the
edge on dot 10
and continue
Place letter
point of the curve.

line
on the end of
and
draft to dot 4-
DIVIDED BICYCLE SKIRT.

FRONT.
Use the
Measure
Measure
place dot 3fold of
goods
for line
A-
Draft line
1
inch from the en d of goods out 15 inches.
]/ inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 2. x and 5 *& inches less than J^ waist measure on line B trom " ne
Place letter
on dot 2 and
fold
draft line
to dot 3-
Measure down the

place dot 4-
of goods from dot
2
I
the length of skirt measure and
Draft line
straight out
line
from dot
about
inches.
Measure 4 inches on Measure

Place the
from dot 3 and place dot 5dot
8 inches straight
down from
skirt length.
5 and
place dot 6-
corner of square
on dot 3 the
e dge
on dot 6 and
draft line
.own
inch more than the
Measure 4 Vi inches out line B from line A and place dot 7Measure ti inch straight down from dot 7 and place dot fc. Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 2. Measure 1 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 9)
Place
the
corner of square on dot 8 the edge on dot 9. and draft line
down 14
inches and place dot 101
Measure
Place the
inches on line
fr

2
10 and
skirt
dot 3 and place dot H. to dot draft line
H.
Measure
inches
more than j4 of
length on line E, from dot

draft a
H,
and
place dot 12-
end of tape line 011 dot 3 line F to meet line D 9 inches from dot Hold the end of tape line on the curved line from dot 12 to meet line D
Hold
the
and
curved line from the end of
4junction of lines
and
and
draft a
9 inches from dot 4-
BACK.
_jSi
Use
Draft line
the fold of goods for line A'2 inch from the end of goods.
Measure Measure
dot 3.
inches 3 $4
1
inch
on line A rrom line B. and place dot 2more than the sLrt length on line A from dot 2, and
place
Draft line C out from dot 3, about I 5 inches. inches less than J^ of waist measure, on line B from line A. Measure and place dot 4Measure 4 inches on line B, from line A. and place dot 51 Measure z /, inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6-
$%
on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6 on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4Measure 4 inches on line B from dot 4. and place dot 7Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 8. and draft
V
T
line
F down
inch more
than the skirt length.
inches on line F, from dot 4, and place dot 9. Measure 1 5 Measure oj^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 10Place letter K on dot 9 and draft line 6 to dot 10Place letter S on dot 10 and continue line G t0 dot 62 Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot 9> and draft line H length from dot 9inches more than }4 the skirt Place the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft curved line J from the end of line F to meet line C 4- inches from dot 3. r rom the end Place the end of tape line on dot 2 and uraft a curved line
"
of line
to
meet
line J.
*"
FLARE SKIRT NO.

Use
the told of goods for line A.
507 FRONT.
Draft line B )A inch from the end of goods.
Measure one inch down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure lg of the waist measure out line B from line A and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure one inch more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and
place dot 4.
D 20 inches straight out from dot 4. Measure *4 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 5. Measure '; inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Place the corner ot square (or skirt rule) on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E to line D. Place letter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 7. Measure 2 inches up from the end of line E and place dot 8. Measure } inches straight out from the junction of lines D and E and
Draft line
I 1
place dot 9.
Measure \ inch straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to dot 10. Place letter R on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 4 inches in from dot
l4 inch allowed for seam.
9.
FIRST GORE.
Use
the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B }? inch from the end of goods. inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure
1
of the waist measure on line B from Measure y? inches more than line A and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure _. inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure 9 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter U on dot 4 and draft to dot 5. Measure 2 inches more than the length of the skirt down line A from line
1
B and place dot 6.

Draft line
D
1
straight out
from dot
6.
Measure
'_,
inches on line
D from
dot
6 and place dot

_,
7.
Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 5.
Measure 9 inches up
Place letter S on dot Place letter
line
8 and
E from dot 7 and draft to dot 6.
inch in and place dot 8.
on dot 8 and draft to meet line E 9 inches up. from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. inches out from dot 9 on line B and place dot 10. 1 \i and place dot 8 inches straight down from dot and draft Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot ,
2 inches out
line
to line D.
Place letter
H on
dot 3 and draft to dot II.
Hold
the end of tape line on the center of line C and draft line G from dot out and
7 and extending 4 inches beyond line F. Measure 1 inches up line F from line G and one inch
1
straight
place dot 12.
Place letter R on the end of line G and draft to dot 12. Place letter S on dot 12 and draft to meet line F 9 inches up.
SECOND GORE.
Use
the edge of goods for line A.
Draft line B )4 inch from the end of goods. Measure one inch on line B from line A and place dot 2.
Measure \i inches less than y of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 3. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Place letter M on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 8 inches below line B. Measure down line A from line B 3 inches more than the skirt length and
I
draft line
2 inches on line D irom line A and place dot 4. Draft line E beginning on line Ail inches below line B ard draft to line 4. Measure 1 inches up line E from dot 4 and z ncn n an d place dot 5.
1
D Measure
straight out.
'
>
Measure
'
inch up line
A from
line
D and
place dot 6.
Place letter S on dot 5 and draft to dot 6.
771 v> Worn
4-
on dot 5 and 'draft to meet line E 10 inches above dot 5. dot 6" and draft to meet line D 3 inches from dot 4. Measure one inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7. Measure l 2 inches from dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place the corner of square on dot 7, the edge on dot 9, and draft line F
Place letter
Place letter
U on
*T" 3
2^
inches
more than
t,
the skirt length.
Measure
1 /- inches straight out from the end of line F and place dot 10. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 6 inches from dot 4. Measure I 1 inches up from the end of line F and one inch straight out and
place dot
Place letter
Place letter S on dot Place 4etter
and draft to dot 10. and draft to meet line F R on dot 3 and draft to dot 9. on dot
I I
1 1
inches up.
BACK.
Use
the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B 'j inch from the end of goods.
Measure 1-10 of waist measure down line A from line B and place dot 2. of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Measure Place letter T on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and
place dot 4.
Draft line
from dot 4.
skirt
Measure 4 inches less than J^ the inch straight in and place dot 5. Draft from dot 5 to dot 4. Place Tetter W on dot 5 and draft
dot 5.
length up line
A from dot 4 and |^
to
meet
line
1 1
inches
up
trom
B from dot 3 and place dot 6. dot 6 and place dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft inches more than the skirt length. Hold the end of tape line on dot 3 and draft from the end of
Measure Measure
4'/, inches
on
line
8 inches straight
down from
line
E 6 E
to
line
meet
line D.
CIRCULAR FLOUNCE.
Draft line
one inch from the edge of cloth.

line
Use
the end of cloth for line B.
Measure 50 inches down

out 56 inches.
A from
line
B and
draft
line
straight
Draft line D 6 inches straight up from the end of line C. Measure 3 \' inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. 2 Measure 36 inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3.
1
Measure
',<
inches on line
the
B from
line
A and
place dot 4.
on dot 3 and draft a curved (See Diagram) line E from dot 4 to meet line D. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 3 and draft line F the width of flounce desired. Place the end of square on the junction of lines D and E the edge on dot 3 and draft line G in the width desired. Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft line H
Hold
(or
pin)
end
of tape measure
from the end of line F to the end of This will give the foundation
dotted lines.
line G.
for
any
style
of
Flounce desired.
See
5*
^fcu.^-y.fc
SKIRT NO.
Use
the fold of goods for line
407.
A.
Draft line
yi inch from the end of goods. from line JJ and place dot 2Measure }4 inch on line Measure I inch more than the skirt length on line from dot
2 an d
place
dot 3.
C straight out from dot 3 about z inches. Measure y% of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure )/? inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E Vi inches more than the skirt length. Place the V mark on dot 4 and draft to dot 72 Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 an d draft from the end of line E to meet
Draft line
i i
line
Ci/\
Allow
mcn
'
or
seam on
line
E-
FIRST SIDE PANEL.

A
B
I
VL inch from the edge of goods. /4 inch from the end of goods.
Measure yi inch on line A fr m line B an d place dot 2Measure inches more than the skirt length on line J^
place dot 3-
A
B
from dot 2 and
Draft line
A
l
Measure }4 inch
place dot 4-
the waist measure straight out from dot 3less than i^ of waist measure on line
fr
hne
and
H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 3^ inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5Place the yi mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. Measure 2 3^ inches from dot 4 and place dot (J. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E inches more than the skirt length. Measure 3/ inch in from dot 4 on 'ine D an d place dot 8Place the mark on dot 8 an d draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet
Place letter
line
C-
SECOND SIDE PANEL.

A
B
l
-
Yx inch from the edge of goods. l'i inch from the end of goods. inch on line
Measure
Place the
3/
Measure
B from line A and place dot 2mark on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. inches more than the skirt length on line A fr m line B and
straight
less
pla^
dot 3. Draft line
C
l
out from dot
1 /2 the waist measure.
Measure
place dot 4-
inch
than yl of the waist measure on line
fr
h ne
and
Place letter
'
on dot
4 and
draft line
to dot 2-
Measure 2 2 inches out from dot 4 and place dot (JMeasure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 ar>d place dot 7 Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 7 and draft line E 2 inches more than the skirt length. Measure 3/ inch in on line D from dot 4 and place dot 8Place the 'a mark on dot 8 and draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet Hne CAllow Yx inch for seams on lines A and E-
BACK.
Dratt line Draft line
A
B
1
of goods. Y\ inch from the edge '2 inch from the end of goods.
inches on line
Measure Measure
dot 3.
from
line
a d place dot 2-
inches
more than
the skirt length on line
from dot 2 and place
Measure y^ of the waist measure on line B fr m l' ne A an d place dot 4Place letter F on dot 4 an d draft line D to dot 2Measure 2 inch on line D fr m dot 2 an d place dot 5Place the *4 mark on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 8 inches down. Measure 3 '4 inches out from dot 4 ar) d place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 4. the edge on dot 7 an d draft line E z inches more than the skirt length. Measure z the distance between dot 4 ar>d line A on fine B ar, d place dot 8Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 an d draft line C from dot 3 to the end of
'
'
/
l
line C-
Allow y inch
for
seam on
lines
an d E-
SKIRT NO.
405.
407.
USE FRONT OF
Draft line Y\ inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B >2 inch from the end of goods. from line B and place dot 2Measure i}( inches on line Measure 1 inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure y$ of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4 Place letter on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5Place the y% mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below
dot 2-
Measure Mj of the waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 6Measure i)4 inches from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Use the }4 mark to draft lines F and GMeasure 2 2 inches from dot 4 and place dot 9Measure 2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. and draft line Place the corner of square on dot 9, the edge on dot E 2 inches more than the skirt length from dot 9Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E 1 3 inches below dot 9 Measure 2}( inches more than the skirt length straight down from dot 9 and place dot 12 (see dotted line). Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 12Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from dot 12 to the end
>
if line
Elines
Allow Vx inch seam on
and E-
BACK.
A
B
V\ inch from the edge of goods. /i inch from the end of goods.
Measure 2^ inches on line A from line B and place dot 2Measure 2 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure y$ of the waist measure on line Bfrom line A and place dot4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure V, inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5-
Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length on and place dot 5. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft to dot 4.
.
line
from
line
B and
Draft the same for a single box
plait,
making the top
3 inches
and the
bottom 12 inches.
For a
triple
box
plait
make
the top
inches and the bottom 19 inches.
Allow for seam on line E.
GOLF, BICYCLE OR RAINY DAY SKIRT.

USE FRONT OF
SIDE PANEL.
407.
A Y
B
1 1
inch from the edge of goods.
5^ inch fr
the end of goods.
Measure
*4 inches
on
line
h"
om hne B and
place dot 2.
Measure
place dot 3.
Y>
inches
more than
the skirt length on line
from dot 2 and
Draft line
C
j
'
z inches straight out
from dot 3.
Measure
of waist measure on
line
Place letter
H
G
l
on dot
and
draft line
B from line A D to dot 2.

line
and place dot 4-
Measure
inch on line

draft to
line
Place letter
on dot 5 an d
meet
A
dot
6 inches below dot 2.
Measure
Measure
'/s
I
of waist measure on
fr
5 and
place dot 6.
/i inches
Measure 4 inches Use the 2 mark
straight
down from
dot
7 and place dot 8.

to dot
y
2
to draft lines
and
from dots 6 and 7
8.
Measure zy, inches on
line
from dot
4 and
place dot 9.
Measure
/2
l
inches from dot
Measure
8 inches straight
9 and place dot 10. down from dot 10 and pl ace
dot il.
Place the corner of square on dot 9 the edge on dot 1 1 and draft line inches more than the skirt length.
'
/z
Place letter
Hold end of
line
on dot 4 and draft to meet line E ' 2 inches below dot 9. tape line on dot ^ and draft from the end of line E to meet
C.
Allow
inch seam on lines
and E-
BACK.
Draft line
Draft line
A
B
2 y
goods. Y\ i nc h from the edge of Yz inch from the end of goods.
Measure Measure
5^/4 inches
2
on
line
fr
line
and place dot 2.
inches
'
more than the length of skirt from dot 2 and place dot 3.
Draft line
C
1
Measure
\u inches less than
y
z
from dot 3. of waist measure on
line
fr
line
and
place dot 4. Place letter
on dot 2 and
draft line
to dot 4.
from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2. Measure 7 inches on line B fr m dot 4 and place dot 6. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 1 and draft line E
Measure
inch on line
2 Yi
inches
more than the skirt length from dot 4. Measure }& of the waist measure on line B fr m line A and place dot 9. Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from the end of line E to meet
line
Allow
inches from dot 3. inch for seam on lines
and E.
CHILD'S SKIRT FRONT.

Use
the fold of goods
foi
line
A'
Draft line
]/2
inch from the end of goods.
Measure J^ inch on line A fr m me B and place dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A fr m dot 2 an d place dot 3Measure I inches less than of the waist measure on line B fr m me and place dot 4-
'
Place letter
on dot
4 an d
draft line
D
dot
to dot 2-
inch out from dot
inch out from dot
8 inches straight
5 down from
an d place dot 5ar>d pkce dot 6-
6 and
place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 5. tne edge on dot 7, an d draft line length of skirt.
Place letter. Place letter
the
Allow
on dot 4 ar>d draft on dot 3 an d draft inch seam on line E}jf
to
meet
line
line
t0 the
6 inches below dot 5en d of line E-
SIDE.
Draft line
Draft line
Measure inches on line A from line B an d place dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A fr m dot 2 an d place dot 3Draft line
A B zy
C
I
the edge of goods. V\ inch fr /^ inch from the end of goods.
straight out
Measure
place dot
inch more than
from dot 3of the waist measure on j

>'i
line
from
line
ar)
Place letter
H on dot 4 a nd draft line D to dot 2Measure '4 inch on line D from dot 2 an d place dot 5Place letter on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 4 inches down from dot 2Measure inch from dot 4 an d place dot 6Measure } inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 ar| d place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6, tne edge on dot 8, an d draft line E the
y M
length of
skirt.
Place letter
R
l
on dot
ar|
draft to
meet
ne
line
ar| d
inches
down
from dot 6.
Measure Measure
inches from dot
3 on
''
place dot 9-
inch straight up from dot
W on dot 10 and W on dot 3 a nd
draft to the
an d place dot 10end of line E>
draft to dot
10-
Allow
inch for seam on lines
an d E-
BACK.
Draft line fi 3^ inch from the edge of goods. Draft line B i ncn from the end of goods.
l i
Measure 2 : inches on line A fr m '' ne B ar| d place dot 2Measure the skirt length on line A from dot 2 an d place dot 3.
^
Draft line
C
1
Measure
dot 4-
straight out from dot 3inch more than V3 waist measure on line
from
line
ar, d
place
Measure
inch straight out from dot
2 an d
pl a ce dot 5-
Place letter
J on
dot
5 an d
draft line
t0 dot
Place letter fH on dot 5 ar>d draft to meet line 8 inches below dot 2Measure 5 inches on line from dot 4 ar| d place dot 6.
Measure
8 inches straight
down from
dot
6 an d
place dot 7-
Place the corner of square on dot 4. tne edge on dot 7, an d draft line length of skirt.
th e
Measure Measure
inches on line
fr
dot
ar>d place dot 8-
yC,
inches straight
up from dot 8 an d place dot 9line
Allow
y
1
on dot 9 and draft to the end of on dot 3 and draft to dot 9inch seam on lines A and E}/f
\|f
is
E-
When
the dart
a dart
y, inches
required, measure y% of the waist measure from dot 5 making at top and to meet 4. inches straight down from the last dot.
RIDING SKIRT NO.

Use the edge of goods
Draft line
te \j it
(X*
I.
for line
A-
B %
inch from the end of goods.
Measure J inches on line A. from line B, and place dot 2Measure inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure ' j of waist measure on line B from line A, and place dot 4. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place letter F on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure zyt, inches on line B, from dot 4, and place dot 6Measure 3 yi inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure j inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 8Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 9. Place letter U on dot 1 and draft line E to dot 9. Measure ]4> of the waist measure from dot 6 and place dot 101
_,
Place the
point of curve on dot 10 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure 414 inches on line B from dot 10 and place dot \\. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot and place dot 12.
1
Draft line
draft line H to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A. from dot 2, and place dot 13. Draft line I 20 inches straight out from dot 13Draft line J from dot 12 to the end of line I.
Place letter
from dot on dot
10 to 3 and
dot 12-
NO.
Draft lines
2.
inch from the edge and end of goods. A and B Measure 3 inches on line A, from line B, and place dot 2Measure inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot 3. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4. Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5. Measure 10 inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6 Place letter H on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 6Measure the length of skirt on line A from dot 5 and place dot 7. Measure I inch straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8-
4^
Draft line
from dot
to dot 8-
B, from dot 10, and place dot 124 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13. Place letter H on dot 9 and draft line F to dot 13. Place letter R on dot and draft line G to dot 13. Place the corner of square on dot H, the edge on dot 10, and
line
Measure Measure Measure Measure Measure
8 inches
6*4
from line and place dot 9. inches on line B, from dot 9, and place dot 1012 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot
line
on
H.
6 inches on
draft line
straight out
from dot
1 1 line
Place
Measure 8}4 inches on letter F on dot
H, from dot
and
draft
H,
line I to
dot 11. Place
and place dot 14. meet line 3
R %
inches from
letter T on the end of line I and draft to dot 15. Measure 51^ inches on line H, from dot 14, and place dot 16. Measure 2 yi inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter T on dot 17 and draft line J to dot 15. Measure 2^ inches on l.ne H, from dot 16, and place dot 18. Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 18 and place
dot
19.
on dot 17 and continue line J to dot 19. Measure 3 inches on line H, from dot 13, and place dot 20Measure 1 2 inches less than the skirt length, straight down from dot and place dot 21Continue line J from dot 19 to dot 21Place
nches.
the
Place letter
20
corner
f square on
dot
21 and
draft
line
straight in
24
Measure 4 inches
straight
up from dot 14 and place dot 15.
Measure 12 inches in on line K from dot 21, and place dot 22Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23Measure o inches straight down from the end of line and place dot 24Place letter R on dot 21 and draft to dot 231
Place letter
R
S
Place letter
on dot on dot
23 24
and
an d draft to dot 24draft to dot 8-
NO.
Use
Draft line
3.
the edge of goods for line AYz inch from the end of goods.
Measure 9 inches on line A> fr m une B. and place dot 2Measure yi inch more than one twelfth of the waist measure on line B fr m line A and place dot 3Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter N on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 4 Measure 3 inches on line B> from dot 3. and place dot 5' Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure one twelfth of the waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 7Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line D to dot 8Measure 31^ inches on line B from dot 7 and place dot 9' Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Measure J^ of the waist measure from dot 9 and place dot \\. Place letter R on dot 10 and draft line E to dot H. Place a dot on line B the distance between dots 7 ar>d 9 and measure
straight
down
1 1
yi inches and place dot 12-
Place letter
on dot
dot
Place letter
H on
4 and 6 and
draft line draft line
P to dot G to dot
12.
12-
Measure 10 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 13Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line H to dot 13. Place letter B on dot 10 and draft line I to dot 13Measure 3 i/J inches on line B, from dot \\, and place dot 14Measure 5}^ inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15Measure 10 inches on line B fr m dot 14, and place dot 16. Measure 14 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter R on dot and draft line J to dot 15Place letter R on dot 15 and continue line J to dot 17. Measure 3 J^ inches straight down from dot 17 and place dot 18Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 18 and place dot 19Place letter jf on dot 19 and draft to dot 17Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 19 and place dot 20Measure inches straight out from dot 20 and place dot 21Place letter J on dot 19 and draft to dot 21Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 21 and place dot 22Measure inches less than the skirt length straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23Continue line J from dot 21 to dot 23Measure 2 inches less than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place
%
1
dot
24
25262728-
Measure I 2 inches on line A, from dot 2, and place dot Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot Place letter S on dot 26 and draft line R to dot 2Measure 8 inches on line A from dot 25, and place dot Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 27 and place dot Place letter G on dot 26 and continue line R to dot 28Continue line R from dot 28 to dot 24Measure 4 inches down from dot 24 and place dot 29Draft line L> from dot 29, to dot 23Measure 1 2 inches out line L from dot 29 and place dot Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 30 and place dot
3031-
Draft line JH from dot 24 to dot 31Measure I o inches on line L> from dot 30, an d plce dot 32-
Measure
3 inches straight
up from dot 32 and place dot 33to dot 31on dot 33 and continue line on dot 23 and draft t0 dot 33-
POCKET.
Drafc lines
Measure 1 }4 inches on line A fr m une B and place dot 2Measure 4 inches on line B> fr m line A. and place dot 3point of curve on dot 3 a d draft line C t0 dot 2Place the Measure 414 inches on line A. fr m dot 2, and place dot 4Measure 7 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5Measure 7 inches down line A from dot 4. and place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7Place letter H on dot 5 and continue line D to dot 7Measure 14 inches on line A. fr m dot 2 and place dot 8Draft line
ancl
B %
inch fr
tne e dg e an d en d of goods.
Measure
Place letter
E fr m dot 8. and place dot 9. on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 9Measure zyi inches from dot 9. on line E. an d place dot 10Place letter B n dot 7 afi d draft to dot 103 inches
straight out
from dot 8-
on
line
TROUSERS FRONT.
B
A a nd B Y\ inch from the edge and end of goods. inch more than y^ of the outside leg measure on line A fr m in e Measure and place dot 2. Measure 3 inches on line B fr m line A and place dot 3. Measure 4'^ inches on line A. from line B. and place dot 4. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 5. Place letter G on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 2. Place the corner of square on dot 2i the short arm even with line A and
Draft lines
1 '
draft line
out
2
inches beginning 8 inches from dot 2.
Measure
place dot 6.
inches
more than
^
ltg
the hip measure on line
fr
dot
2 and
Measure the length of outside

dot 7.
measure on
line
A. from
line
B,
a nd place
dot 3. afi d place dot 8. on line B fr inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9z inch from dot 9 a nd place dot 10. 1 Draft the dart to meet 4 inches straight down from center of dart. dot 6. and place dot Measure 2 inches in on line D fr
1^ of waist measure
Measure
2 V? inches straight
up from dot
H.
and place dot 12.
on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 12. on dot 12 and continue line E to dot 6. and place dot 13. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot and place dot 14. inches straight down from dot Measure 12 Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 14 and place dot 15. Place letter U on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 13. Place letter U on dot 13 and extend line F to dot 15. inches less than the measure around the ankle straight out from Measure 2
Place letter
A
C
Place letter
H H
dot
7 and
place dot 16.

line
Continue
Place letter
M on
from dot 15, extending }4 inch below dot 16. the end of line F and draft line G to dot 7.
BACK.
Draft lines
Waist
Outside leg measure
. .
..24
.
Hips
4
12
A and B ]i inch from the edge and end ot goods. Measure 3 l 2 inches on line A, from line B and place dot 2. Measure }i of waist measure on line B, fr m ,in e A. and place dot 3. Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3.
Knee
Ankle
9%
Measure J^ of waist measure on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure 2 inches on line C> from dot 4. and place dot 5. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on dot 4, the edge on dot 6. and draft down 4 inches. Draft line E from dot 5 to the end of line D. Measure 7^ inches on line A. from dot 2> and place dot 7. Measure j inches straight out from dot 1 and place dot 8Measure inch straight out fiom dot 8 and place dot 9i
line
F G
I
from dot 2 to dot 8from dot 8 to dot 9inch
Measure
more than
?/*
of leg measure on line A, from dot 2, and
place dot 10Place the short

draft line
arm of square even with line A the corner on dot 10> and ou t 8 inches beginning 14 inches from dot 10.
2
Measure
place dot
inches less than j4 of hip measure on line fl from dot 10. and
H.
,
Measure 5 inches on line A, from d . 10, and place dot 12. Measure 4 inches straight out from -lot 12 and place dot 13Place letter S on dot 9 and draft line J to dot 13Measure 7 inches down line A from dot 12, and place dot 14Measure 4.^ inches straight out from dot 14 and place dot 15Place letter \J on dot 15 and draft to dot 13Measure the length of outside leg measure on line A, from dot 2> ar*d place
dot 16.
Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 16 and place dot 17Extend line J from dot 15 to dot 17Measure 5 inches from dot 3, on line B, and place dot 18Measure 6V inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19Place letter H on dot 3, and draft line K to dot 19Measure 3^ inches in from dot 11, on line H, and place dot 20Measure 5 inches straight up from dot 20 and place dot 21Place the point of curve on dot and draft to dot 21Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 21 and place dot 22Place letter G on dot 1 1 and draft line L to dot 22Measure 3/ of knee measure straight out from dot 15 and place dot 23Place letter G on dot 22 and extend line L to dot 23Measure the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 17 and place
dot 24.
Extend
Place
a
line
Place letter
inches up.
L from dot 23 to one inch S on the end of line L and
below dot 24draft to dot

line
17.
draft to
dot j/ inch outside of the end of
and
meet
line
Place a dot *^ inch in from dot 1 7 and draft to meet line
J 4
inches up.
CORSET COVER.
BACK.
A and B }4 inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2, on line B, and place dot 2Draft lines
line
fr
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
Measure the length of back on

Draft line
line
A. from
line
B. and place dot 4-
D
I
straight out
from dot 4-
Measure
inch on line D> from dot 4. and place dot 5Measure the distance given in the table for center back and
side
body on
line
D, from dot 5. and place dot 6Draft line E. from dot 2, to dot 5-
Measure
inches straight
down
from dot 5 and place dot 7-
Measure
yt,
inch in towards line A. from dot 7, and place dot 8-
Draft line F. from dot 5, to dot
Measure 6}4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9Measure 4. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place
letter
on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and
draft line
the
proportionate length of shoulder, and place dot
H.
down from
dot
Measure
inch
less
than } of arm's eye measure straight
11 and place dot 12Measure 1/^ inch straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13Place the Place letter
13 and
draft line
to dot
to dot
H.
Hon
dot 6, and draft line
K
dot
13-
Measure Measure
>i inch
5
on
line
D, from dot 6, and place dot 14-
inches straight
down from
14 and
to dot to the
place dot 15-
Place letter Draft line

dots
on dot 6, and draft
line
15-
from the center of the shoulder
middle of
line
D, between
meet
5 and
(J.
Place a
dot on line
'8
ncn ea ch side of
line
and
draft a dart to
inches below line H, drafting the lower side of dart V% inch above line H, and
draft a
new
meet
line
from the
end of dart
line to point
of shoulder.
(See diagram
).
Place
line to
letter
S on line L 9
the junction of lines
and L, and
draft a slightly
curved
inches above line D-
Reverse
lines).
the
curve and draft
on the opposite side of
line
L-
(See dotted
Extend
lines
and
about
inches below line
D,
w h
about
/2 inch
spring at bottom.
(See dotted lines).
Allow
inch seams on lines E, F, H.
and L-
Cut on
lines
and J.
UNDER ARM FORM.

Measure
3 inches
from dot 6 on Ime
and place dot 2.
Measure the width of under arm form from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in side body and then measure
that distance straight
Measure
Â inches straight out from dot
up from dot 2 and p'ace dot 4. 4 and place dot 5.

straight out
Measure the width of under arm form

the length of under
from dot
and place dot 6.
Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and measure up from
dot
arm and place dot

7.
on dot 5 and
dot
A
B
to dot 2. to dot 3.
M on
2
1 and
5 and
draft line
to dot 7.
Measure
y
A
inches in from dot 2, on nne
D, and place dot 8.

place dot 9.
Measure
5 inches straight
down from
draft line
dot
8 and
Place letter
on dot 2 and
to dot 9.
Measure Measure
i/^
inch out from dot
3 and
place dot
10.
place dot \\.
5 inches straight
down from
draft line
dot
10 and
Place letter
on dot 3 and
to dot
\\,
CORSET COVER.
FRONT.
A
B
'^-4
1

in the
inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given B, and place dot 2-
line
A. from
line
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
IB
A-S-t "3
"lace tne point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3, on line B. and place dot 9Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter A on dot 3. the edge of curve on dot 10, and draft
line
H
m
J4
''
inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.
Measure 2 inches Bj and place dot 4Draft line
less
than }4 of the arm's eye measure on line
A,
fr
ne
D
1
Measure
place dot 5-
straight out, beginning 6 inches from dot 4l inch more than /{ of the bust measure on line
fr
dot 4, and
Place letter
on the end of
line
H, and
draft line
to dot 5-
from dot 5 an d place dot (Jinches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7' I '4 Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 7, and draft line
Measure Measure
inches straight
down
the
length of line
Draft line
E in front. F straight in
from the end ot
line
to line
A.
LADIES'
Use
UNDER
FRONT.
SKIRT.
the told of goods for line Athe end of goods. '2 inch fr Draft line
(p
&
Measure }4 inch on line A fr m iine B, and pl a ce dot 2f tne waist measure on line B, fr m l' ne A, and place dot 3Measure Measure j^. inch in from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter R on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 2Measure the length of skirt down line A from dot 2, and place dot 5-
Draft line
straight out
from dot 5, about 10 inches.
Measure 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 6Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 3, the edge on dot 7, and draft line E inch more than the skirt length. Place letter R on dot 4, an d draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft a line from the end of line E meet line D-
%
to
SIDE GORE.
Use
the edge of goods for line Athe end of goods. Draft line }{. inch fr
Measure 4 inches
place dot 2-
less
than
of waist measure on
line
B> from
line
A, and
Measure Measure
^
1 l
/ 2
2
Place letter
Place letter
inch on line A, from ,ine B, and place dot 3inches straight out from dot 3 an d pl a ce dot 4dot 4R" on dot 2, and draft line C to
Measure
dot 5.
/
l
on dot 4, and draft to meet line 9 inches below dot 3from dot 3, and place inch more than the skirt length on line
'S
Draft line
Measure 3 inches on line B fr m dot 2, and place dot 6Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 7, and
J i.h
straight out
from dot 5-
draft line
'
3H
more than the skirt length. Hold the end of tape line on dot 2 and
draft
curved
line
from the end of
line
to
meet
line
D-
BACK.
Use
AD-af* line B % inch from the end of goods. measure \: of the waist measure on line B from line A. and place dot 22 Measure on line A from line B 1 inch more than the skirt length and place
dot 3. Draft line
the edge of goods for line
Measure 2 inches on line B fr m dot 2, and place dot 4Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge on dot 5, and
inch
straight
out from dot 3-
draft line
'
more
than the skirt length.
Y'.oA the end of tape line on dot
2 and
desired.
draft a
curved line from the end ot
~3>
line
to
Allow
at
meet Dbottom for width of hem

line
TO PUT THE LINING ON FULL.

First see that the
lining
is
cut
2 y
inch longer than the measure.

is
Place
the lining on the cloth.
See that the cloth
perfectly smooth.
Run
basting across the lining about 3 inches above the waist line in the front
and from 4
to
4^
inches in the back, side-body and under
arm shape.
line.
Now Now
push the lining up
inch and run a basting across the waist
grade the fullness in the lining by running a basting
(%
inch stitch)
line.
%
for
inch inside of the tracing making the most fullness near the waist
baste in the tracing } inch stitch.
1
Now
up
about
inch below the waist
line.
Make the lining The bones must be
slightly full
put in easy
when they must be sewed perfectly tight and above the waist line they must be sprung in at least y inch in order to remove 2 the fullness in the lining. The casing should be sewed tight to the seam of the dress and then cross stitched if desired. Begin at the waist line to do your basting (darts excepted, which must be started at the point of the dart) and baste up and down. The basting should not be longe.'
to the waist line,
than
inch stitches.
Be careful
to baste in small stitches
around
tht
arm's eye ami neck to prevent stretching.

In the
joining the waist
it is
best to pin the traced lines
first
and remove
pins as you baste.

if
Measure your waist before

or
stitching the under
arm seam, and

lines.
large
small, stitch inside or outside of the tra"*
BICYCLE BLOOMERS.
.Use
the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line
%. inch from the end of goods.
Measure
Measure Measure
line A,
inches
1%
2
down line A from line B, and place dot 2inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3 inches more than of the waist
measure on
line
and place dot 4. Measure 9 inches down
from
line
Place letter
M on dot 3, and draft line D

of outside leg
from dot
2, to
and place dot 5

dot
5.
Measure the length

place dot 6-
measure on
line
from dot
2,
and
2,
Measure , inch less than and place dot 7.

S Tt f
of outside leg measure on line
from dot
and
7,
arm ^Jj"*' lstraight out, draft line E
'IdpTce
Z
%
B.
even with lin e A, the corner on dot 7 beginning , 2 inches from dot 7 m0rC tha f thC hlP meaSUrC n lme E fr d0t "
S(^ uare
Measure 3} < inches in from dot 8 on hne E, and place dot 9. Measure 5 inches in from dot 8 on line E, and place dot 10 Measure S inches in from dot 8 on line E, and place dot Measure 7 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 12. Measure 8 inches straight up from dot and place dot 13. Measure 1 inch from dot 4 on line B, and place dot U. Draft line C from dot 14 to dot 2. Draft line F from dot 14 to dot 12. Place letter H on dot 8 and draft to dot 12 Place the point of curve on dot 4 and draft line G to dot 13 Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15 e C thC meaSUrC af0Und thC aDkle Str from dot6 Ld is"
pt eX
ht Ut
G on G on
Draft hne
dot 8, and draft line H to dot 15 dot 15, and extend line H 1 inch beiow dot 16from the end of line G to dot 6-
SKIRT YOKE.
Use the
5
Draft line
dotT
Hold
goods for line Ainch from the end of goods 6 6/2 inChCS d Wn thC f ld f g00ds from line
fold of
B and
P lace
the
end
of
tape
line
goods and draft curved line Measure 2 inches on line Place dots 4, 5 and 6 on Measure 1 inch from dot Measure 5 inches straight
on the junction of
line
C from dot 2 to line B C from dot 2, and place dot line C 2 inches apart.
6 on
line C,
and the
fold of
3.
D îVfnches""
place dot 8 f SqUarC n d0t 6 thC 6dge n d0t 8> alld draft line
down from 7 and
ana place dot 1
C he are on the J un ction of line B and the fold of J goods, the edge on i dot 2, and measure down according to size of wais * (See WaiSl meaSUre and do ted lines the diagram.) Place the edge of square on dots 3, 4, 5 and 6, and make a dot in the same manner, according to the waist measure
^!t
"
'
011
6 1
'
Hne
dorado*:
A)Vo\.A
^ Pladng leUer J "
thC
firSt
d0t and draft from
<jôS5'
This will give you a correct shape at the waist line desired width, but it must be shaped at the back according to line D.
The yoke can be made any
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING AND FINISHING WAIST.
Vienna
Millinery Institute
To
the
arrange the lining for drafting, fold

side of the
lining.
it
so that the drafting will be
made on
wrong
Place the lining on the table wi'h the selvedge
towards vou.
is to be put on full then it must be drafted 2 inch longer than measure calls for. When your drafting is finished it the lining is drafted double ) pin it together well before tracing and cutting. Use a double tracing wheel, this will give an even seam and be a great assistance in your basting. Never raise it with your Place the lining flat on the table when cutting.
If the lining
/
l
the
hand.
When
both
cut put a small notch at the waist line.

front, waist
line,
The
entire art of
Trace the
with
in the front
and
darts with
one wheel,
all
other sewing lines
wheels, making a '^ inch seam, except on the shoulders and line
FRENCH
MILLINERY
under arm shape, which should be a one inch seam so as to give a little ease on those seams if desired. The neck and arm hole is cut on the marked lines as seams are allowed in the
and
line
in the
drafting.
TAUGHT
From
the
TO CUT THE GOODS.

See that the goods are folded double
(
unless they are stripes or plaids.

figures.
making of Wire Frames
See
to the
instructions for matching stripes, plaids
and
Final Finishing of the

or Bonnet.
Hat
Place the lining Lay the goods smooth on the table, selvedge towards you. on the goods. The bottom of the waist lining at the end of the goods (so as to cut saving), unless the nap or figure runs the other way, which of course must
be the
first
consideration.
It is best to
place
all
of the
forms
in position first
and
see that the waist lines run even with the thread of the goods, then pin carefully
before cutting.
YOU LEARN ALL THE
FINE POINTS
Be very
waist can
tight,
it
careful
in
basting.
No
matter
how
perfect
vour draftings are the

the basting thread too
be ruined
bv improper
basting.
Do
not
draw
will
draw
the goods out of position.
Before removing the basting thread^

are apt 10
pull or break the thread 01
This system
is
so thoroughly taught that
clip
them every few inches, otherwise thev
scholars after finishing are fully
com-
the goods.
petent to take charge of business for
themselves, or take leading positions

for others.
Place the goods on the table face
down.
Now
place the lining on the goods
right side
line
up, then pin

little
at
the waist line and arrange the lining above the waist
with a
ease, pinning the lining to the material.
Baste the waist line
first,'
then
stitch
baste the other lines in the tracing
baste,
up and down from the waist line with a from to ]/ inch long. Do not put your hand under or raise up to 2 Follow the same instructions in basting the side body and under arm
shape.
Vienna
Place the lining on the goods.
See that the front edge of the lining and goods

easy, getting
it
meet.
Pin
the
lining
on
little
all
in place, then baste across
Millinery Institute
5
the
waist
line,
then
line
A.
Now
pin and baste the darts, which should br
done very
inch stitch.
carefully, beginning at
the top or point and basting
down, using
WEST
14th
STREET,
NEW YORK
baste line E, starting from the waist line up. Baste shoulder next, then around the neck and arm hole with a y inch stitch, being careful not
Now
to stretch the
goods
as
it is
cut partly on the bias. pin carefully, beginning at the top of the dart and
In taking up the darts,
first
holding lines \ and
a little full for
about 3 inches above the waist
line,
begin
basting at the point of the dart, using a small firm stitch.
TO
JOIN.
Take one
to
side
together and pin

stretch
fast.
of the back and one side body, placing the two waist line; Now pin in the traced or sewing lines, being careful nol
both traced lines will
not over y^ inch.
to the side
either piece, so that

;
come
out even.
baste
Now -pin
the
from the waist line down you baste, making a small

waist line.
begin basting at the waist line, removing the pins as
stitch,
Now
down from
to
Take
ning
at
the under
;
arm shape and pin
body, being careful
have the
waist lines meet
baste from waist line
the waist line, and then in
Now join up and down. the traced lines up and down
the back, pin;
begin basting
at the
waist line up, then
down.
These Tailoring Irons are up

date and
to
TO STITCH.
the most practical irons to
be had.
They
are
cold handle and
heat retainers.
double the
You can accomplish amount of work (without

$2.00 per
set
First see that the tension in the machine is not too tight, and a medium stitch (not too short), run the machine with an easy, steady motion (not too fast). Begin the back seams starting at the neck, Use silk in stitching in every case.
and stitch just above the waist
inside of the basting, stretching the

line,
seam well
for
about 8 inches
while stitching, in order that the seam will give to the bone
in so as not to break the stitch in the
reheating) than with any other irons.
when
and
for
that
is
sprung
seam.
The
Stitch the next, or side
body seam, with the

of the basting
side
;
price
is
(two irons
stitching
down,
just inside
and stand).
C. O. D.
elsewhere.
We
do not send them

obtain
You cannot
them
Stitch about 6 inches above the waist line. body, under arm shape up, beginning at dot 7, ar>d stitching down just inside of the basting, stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches above the waist line. To stitch the left side of the basque, begin at the bottom and stitch
body up, beginning at dot 2, stretch the seam while stitching the under arm shape on the side
up, following the same instructions,
this
will place the side
body and under arm
shape the same
Stitch the right side first, beginning at the waist line and stitching up Front. Slightly curve the seam out at the point of the dart, beginning ^4 and down. inch below the point of the dart, and finishing i^ inch above, nearly parallel with the thread of the goods ; this will obviate any fullness.
as the right
side.
PRESSING.
First,
remove
surface
;
the
if
basting from
the seams only.
Never
press a curved
on a
flat
you have nothing

is
better turn a rocking-chair
use the rocker.
See that the iron

;
well heated
seam bottom up, and

pressing at
not too hot
start
the bottom of the waist
take plenty of time
and be
careful that the iron does
not
PRESSING CURVE
This curved pressing board
necessary to the dressmaker as
to
is
it
If
Do not stretch the seams. come in contact with any other part of the waist. heavy woolen material the seam can be slightly moistened.
TO PREPARE FOR BONING.
First
as
is take the back
seam and notch

is
at
off"
the waist line and then 3 and 6 inches

at
the ladies'
tailor.
Every waist,
and any curved
above
then trim and round the seam

;
the notches
it
now
either
overhand
or bind the seam
if
binding
used be careful and put
sleeve, dart in
skirt,
prevent any tightness on the seam.

waist line and
z
Notch
the side
on slightly full so as to body or curved seam at the
seam
in
any garment should be pressed

be
copied
over the curved presser.
and 8 inches above waist line ; after notching finish off the seam the same as back, the seam that joins the under arm shape to the side body notch at waist line and z]^ and 5 inches above and finish the same as the
/
l
other seams.
This curve must not

without our consent.
Front.
part
Cut
to
open the dart
to
down
2 inch
in
width.
within 3^ inch of the point and trim the wide Notch the first dart at the waist line and 2
The
price
is
|i.oo.
inches above, and the second dart at waist line and z and 4 inches above waist (The reason for notching the seams line, and finish the same as the other seams.
is
hem
allow them to spring into the form and prevent binding. ) Now fold the front in along line A, and baste y, inch back to prepare the front for button holes When buttons are used, it is well to place a narrow strip of or hooks and eyes. Do not turn in the lining or canvas between the fold to stay the button holes.
to
left
side, as
that
is
used
as a fly,
by putting on
eyes
are
a tape just back of line

it
A. t0
s,a v
.
the
buttons.
When
hooks and
used
is
well
to
turn back and
r&j[^#i|!a?sf>
Warren's Featherbone
Is the
A, an d stitch '& inch back from the edge. It is best bone in each edge of thr lior>t in order to keep the waist from running up ; to do this begin even with the point of the dart and stitch down y inch further in (or the width of the bone. ) The bone should be placed in before putting on the hooks and eyes. The hooks should be placed back yfa inch from edge, and the eyes just even with the edge. Face over the hooks and eyes with a narrow bias strip.
fold the lining along line
to place a
Standard Dress Stiffening of the world.

construction
Its peculiar quill
makes
flexible
it
the
lightest,
most durable and
dress-
boning material on the market.
Warren's Featherbone
as
is
used and recomfashion creators
mended bv such prominent

Mme.
Mme.
Miss
L. Stewart, of Arnold, Constable

of"
&
Co.
Mr. Paul Sarraco,
John Wanamaker.
Gabler, of Lord
&
Taylor.
Bros.
Mr. Henry Levy, of Stern

S.
C.
Griffiths,
of Alcott
&
WeeKes.
Mr. Mr. Mr.
H
I.
R. Hickson, of Everall Bros.
Mrs. Frazer, of Simpson, Crawford
&
Simpson
Levy, of Jas. McCreery
&
Co.
York.
et
,
S.
Brown,
Ladies' Tailor,
New
The Bergdorf-Goodman
Co., Robes
Manteaux,
New
Moschowitz
York.
Bros., Ladies' Tailors,
New
and should be prepared by soaking in cold makes them brittle.) We also recommend Feather Bone. When the single casing is used, it should be sewed on firmly and held full from 1 inch below the waist line to 4 or 5 inches above, the balance put in slightly full. Turn the end of the binding down forming a loop about 1 inch long and fasten firmly. Round the end of the bone off" smoothly and force it in the casing from bottom to the top of the loop. Then fasten tight by sewing through the casing only y^ inch below the top of bone. Now force the bone up so as to remove the fulness Then hoop the in the casing and fasten firmly 3 inches above the waist line. bone so as to take out the greater part of the fullness in the casing, and fasten When double casing is used, cut the casing firmly 1 inch below the waist line. 2 inches longer than the bone, place the bone in the casing, turn the upper end of the casing down I y inches and fasten, the balance to be turned up at the bottom and fastened. Now sew the lower end of the bone firmly on seam Now spring the bone \! inch and fasten inch up from the bottom of the waist. z firmly to the seam y^ mcn below end of the bone. Sew both sides to the seam down to within 3 or 4 inches of the waist line. This will force the hoop part within the proper position. Now sew from the bottom up on both sides. The length of the bone for the back should be V? of the back measure. Use a bone 2 inches shorter for the curved or side body seam. The bones for each side of the under arm shape seams should be 1 inch shorter than the under arm measure. The bones for the darts in front should come to within yi ' ncn of the point ot the dart. Fasten y4 inch below the top of the bone. Co.vered and ever ready steels are put on in the same manner as the bones'in the double casing. A nice finish for the bones is to feather stitch them, with twist or embroidery silk, using
Real whalebones are always
good
or tepfid water.
(Never
in hot, as that
York.
some
ning
?
pretty contrasting color.
Redfern's, Robes,
New
York.
its
Now
at
put the waist together, joining the front to the under arm shape, beginthe
waist
line
Isn't
that
good evidence of
worth
Baste- the
same
as the other
Then pin down from the waist line. and pinning up. seams from the waist line up and down. Now join
Accept no substitute, but get Warren's, the one and only Featherbone. Sold by all dealers. None genuine without the feather
trademark.
ods."
It's
the shoulder, stretch the front shoulder y4 inch so as to join evenly with the back
Send
for
"Featherbone Meth-
FREE.
and pin and baste with the front towards you. The back shoulder can be put Press on full, should you not be able to stretch the front fufficiently to meet it. well. Trim the seam down y? inch and notch in the center and stitch and finish the same as other seams. Before stitching the under arm seam, take your tape line and measure the waist and bust lines and see if they correspond exactly with your measure.
The Warren
Featherbone Co.
aYid shape the bottom of the waist as desired. l bottom by cutting a bias strip 1 /, inches deep, stretching it as you baste to fit the shape at the bottom. Then turn up canvas and material together \o inch and catch it down slightly to the lining, this will Now cut the facing make a smooth and firm edge for the bottom of the waist. bias I y? to 2 inches wide, pin firmly on, stretching so as to shape smoothly to Turn the upper the waist and turning in \i inch at the bottom ready for felling.
Pin
the
waist
lines
together
the
General Offices, Three Oaks, Mich. New York, 808 Broadway Boston, 7 Temple Place Chicago, 704 Harshall Field Annex Building
Prepare
the
canvass
for
edge in and
fell
with a
light stitch,
being careful not to catch through the lining.
Measure the neck of the

according to instructions.
dress
and add 3^ inch

tailor
to the
measure and
It
draft collar
is
Use
canvas for foundation.
the canvas
used double, then stitch it cross and lengthwise in order to give it firmness. Fn the canvas on the material and cut j inch larger all around. Cut the lining the
same
size.
Now
baste the canvas
on the material and
fold over the edge

stitch
and
baste to the canvas.
Catch
down
to the canvas
with a long
without catch-
ing through.
Get the centre of the collar and pin to the centre of the back. Then pin around to the front, then slip stitch on to the neck of the dress. Place the hooks on the right end of the collar and the eyes on the left. Now baste the lining on. Turn in the edge all around, beginning at the top and fell down.
waist
is
never finished without a belt, as that holds
it
firmly in position,
if
measure and finish off j4 inch less than the waist measure by turning in each end and placing hook and eye so that the two ends will meet. Pin the centre of the belt to centre seam in the back having the lower edge of the belt y% inch above the waist line. Then pin to the side body seams and cross stitch to the three seams.
put in properly.
belt 2 inches longer than the waist
Cut the
Side Plaiters
HOOKS AND EYES.

Fold the lining on line and stitch inch from the edge. First mark for hooks and eyes, placing them I inch apart. Spread the rings in both hook and eye inch apart, this prevents slipping out or gaping in the front. Sew the
French Accordion
Button Making and

Pinking Machines
These moulds
follows:
hook
to the inside,
with the
bill
even with the stitched
line.
bill,
Sew
through each
ring three times, then over each branch, then under the
near line Aplace the eye on the next mark so that the bow will extend slightly over line ASew through the rings the same as the hook, and then at each side of the bow.
Now
Sew on
are manufactured in the
alternatively until
even with the top

1
of. the darts.
Then
all
hooks on
the right side, face with lining
inch deep.
following widths ready for use.
Prices as
SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS.
12 inches wide, 9 yds long in frame $3.50 18
" " "
" "
"
" "
" " "
5.00
24
36 48
"
"
"9
9 " " 9
7.50
"
"
plait
12.00 18.00
"
will
"
These machines
material.
any kind of
We
furnish a
full
instruction sheet with
each machine.
Order
direct
from the
VIENNA INSTITUTE
5
West
14th Street, N. Y. City, U.
S.
A.
on the material, having the warp in each running the sami sleeve running the right way). Pin the lining on before cutting. Place the cloth on the table wrong side up, then place the lining on the cloth right side up, pin the lining on easy, baste through the center of the sleeve lengthwise with a 1 inch stitch, then baste in the traced lines, beginning Baste the outside at dot 5 ar>d baste up and down, using a y-i inch stitch. seam in the same manner, then baste top and bottom. Baste the under part in the same manner. Join by placing dots 5 together and pin up and down in the tracing. Fold the top of the sleeve down, having Pin up and down to dot 2 me et the end of line C and dot 1 1 meeting dot 9within 1 2 inches of dot 6> this will leave about |/ mc ^ w hich must be eased inch stitch, with the upper in to the elbow. Baste in the tracing with a First stitch the inside and then the back seam just inside the part next to you. Remove the basting, with the upper part next to the feed of the machine. Trim the seams down to *4 inch and notch the front basting from the seams. Round off the seam at dot 5 an d 3 and 6 inches above and 3 inches below. Seams can be overcast or bound notches and press over a curved seam bound. Place a Face the bottom the same as the waist. to correspond to the waist. notch at the top 2 inches from the back seam and 3 inches from the front seam. Gather between the notches y4 nc h from the'end. Place the sleeve in, holding it towards you, pinning the front seam on a direct bias from the point of the Pin the under arm smooth up to the back notch. Pin from the front last dart. Draw up the gathers, giving the most fullness at the seam to the notch easy. It is always best to sew the sleeve in with a top. Baste with a small stitch. Trim off and overcast. Shields should be tacked lightly firm back stitch. The fullness Never place the needle through the rubber. through the tape. in the French sleeve can be entirely removed by taking a dart at the elbow
Place
the
lining
way
(the diagram shows the
>
(see
dotted lines), or
it
can be gathered for about z inches under the point of
the elbow.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SKIRT.

Draft the
right side
linin g
skirt linings
at
Place the goods on the table
up and
see that they are perfectly smooth.
Place the fold of the front

the lower end of goods, and
even with the fold of the goods, bottom
In cutting the side gores place the straight edge of the lining even with the selvedge of the goods and pin fast and cut. Cut the other gores in the same manner ; always see that the thread of the lining and the thread of the goods run the same way. Cut the stiffening to match each separate piece having the thread of the stiffening run the same as the thread of the goods. This can be cut any desired width ; from I o to 1 8 inches is best.
pin firmly, then cut the goods.
The
stiffening
can be basted on the wrong side of the lining with
a stitch 3 or
4.
inches long.
Now
lining
stitch across the
top without turning in.
Then
pin the out-
SKIRT RULE
In
order to
obtain perfection in
stitching skirts
skirt
you
should
have
on the wrong side of the lining so that the stiffening will come beand the goods. Baste through the center of the front with a inch stitch, beginning at the top and fastening the thread off at the bottom 1 )A of skirt, then baste at each side 2 inches from the edge, beginning at the top and basting down and across the bottom. Baste the remaining parts in the same manner.
side material
tween the
rule about
45 inches long,
in
order to give a perfectly straight seam.
seam
to
Place the bias side of the front to the selvedge of the first side gores pinning the down '4 inch from the edge. Extreme care must be taken not to stretch
the bias edge.
Now
baste, using
straight,
a '^
'
These
both
perfect
tools.
rules
are
If
marked
you
in
inches
to
have
all
seams perfectly
Stitch
and
to
ncn stitch. do this it is
It is
absolutely necessary
best to have a long straight

to
rule (about
ways.
45 inches), and mark

down.
a line just outside
of the basting
guide the
for
expect
do
stitching.
with the bias side
down
next to the feed, stitching one side
work you must have good
up, the
other
Remove
the basting and trim the
seam evenly ready
hinding or overhanding.
Pressing.
Care
should be taken to prevent wrinkles forming on the material
The
price
is
95
cents.
quite impossible to remove a wrinkle formed by the iron ; open the seam well before placing the iron on ; bear well on the iron when pressing so as to give a flat seam. Turn the skirt right side out and place on the table. Take the center of the front and pin in the double at the top. Now
pressing, as
it is
when
pin
the corresponding seams
together at
at
the top, then the center of the back, the bottom.
IMPORTED FRENCH
SILVERED STEEL
When
the
steels.
a less expensive stay than a

is
whalebone
desired
we would
spring
advise
French watch
silvered
They
give perfect satisfaction
to
our customers.
They
are
very
flexible
and strong.
prepay postage except in gross
Price, per
Take tape measure and measure down the center of the front the length of the front skirt measure and mark. Now measure down the first seam inch more than the skirt measure and mark, measure down the center of the gore the same distance and mark. The next seam (or directly over the point of the hips) should be one inch longer than the skirt measure make the remaining part of the skirt the same length. When the back measure is shorter than the front, the difference should be taken from the top of the skirt sloping from the point of the hips back. Trim the bottom of the skirt inch longer than you have marked. Now turn up the bottom y^ inch and baste down, then catch to lining, being careful that the stitch does not come through. (If a facing is desired, cut about 6 to 8 inches deep on the bias and stretch slightly at the bottom so as to prevent too much fullness at the top, tack the bottom with a medium stitch, turn in the top and fell down to the lining of the skirt.) To put the velvet on the bottom, fold the velvet over '4 inch and place it on the bottom so that it will drop y inch below the edge of the skirt, then turn the velvet in at the top and fell down. Make the placket hole from 9 to 1 o inches long and face the opposite side to the fly which should be about 1 inch deep and finished in the double. The facing can be about 1 lA inches deep and finished firm across the bottom. Cut inch wide. Turn the band 2 inches longer than the waist measure, making it in the band 'X inch on each end, mark off 1 inch for the fly on the lift end. Take one half of the waist measure from the mark and pin to the center of the front, pin the skirt on the band easy on each side to the last gore. The back can be either gathered or plaited ; sew on by hand or machine and finish with one or Place hangers on each side of the inside of the belt. two large hooks and eyes.
draw each seam down evenly and pin
We
lots.
sorted, 25 cents;
dozen properly asby the gross $2.00.
THE FRENCH METHOD.

is to seam the cloth and lining separately, Press the seams in both cloth and lining the same. seams in the lining open. Shape the canvas or hair cloth around the bottom, having it run the same thread as the lining, cutting it from 6 to 1 2 inches deep (always make a lapped seam in any kind of stiffening.) Shrink hair cloth and When hair cloth is used the lapped seam should be linen before cutting. strapped with the lining about 1 inch wide so as to cover the raw edges of the
The French method

care
to
to finish a skirt
taking
make
the
upper edge of the hair cloth should always be bound with a be basted on very carefully, holding the hair cloth easy so as to prevent stretching. Pin the stiffening around the bottom on the wrong side and baste top and bottom to the lining. If canvas, stitch to the lining i^ inch from the edge. If hair cloth, stitch through the binding. Press the seams in the skirt and place the lining on the table wrong side up. Place
hair
cloth.
The
narrow
bias strip, this should
the center of the front of cloth even with the center of the front of the lining. Pin the center at the top and then at the seams, each side. smooth the cloth down and pin in position so as to leave the lining easy. Baste down the
Now
center of front with a
of the
to
skirt in
i inch stitch, then each side seam, and finish the balance the same manner, being careful to have the cloth stretched sufficient
make
lining
the
lining easy.
Now
pare off the cloth at the back seam even with

lining
the
and
at
join
the back seam
and cloth together, leaving 9 or 10
inches open
instructions.
the
top for placket.
Finish the balance of skirt as per previous
DROP SKIRT.
A
8
to
drop
2
skirt
is
made by seaming
is'
the material and lining separately.

for a
When
silk lining is
1
used (which
It
most desirable
skirt
drop
the
skirt)
it
should be cut from

skirt for knife
inches shorter than the

used.
)
length (according to the width of knife
pleating
pleating.
tor
will
require
three
times
skirt
width of the
full
When
The
ruffles are
used cut the
the
length, allowing 2 inches
should be cut 3 or 4 inches longer than the hem, which should be blind stitched over. (See instructions for blind stitching.) Place the band on the silk petticoat according to previous instructions. Now arrange the skirt on the band of the petticoat in plaits or gathers as desired. To make a clean finish, place a seam binding on Hat to cover the unfinished edge, stitching on both edges to the band.
outside
material
actual skirt length to allow tor
hem.
drop
skirt
should always be
fitted
before finishing, as
it is
apt to sag around
the hips and back.
VERY ERECT FORMS.

usually have a narrow back in proporwidth of back measure, starting at the center of the back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measure to the arm hole or where the arm hole should come, and use this measure instead of 14, of the bust measure given in the instructions, to locate dot 12For instance take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure, if the width of back was 6, this would indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure.
Forms
that carry themselves very erect
tion to their bust measure.
Take
Draft
line
fr
dot
to
dot 5-
In drafting the front take the difference
between 42 (the actual measure) and 36 (the measure used in drafting the Now take 2/3 of 6, which is 4, added to 42, makes 46. back) which is 6. Now use a 46 bust and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front.
FOR THE NEW FRENCH FORM.
Use
changes.
the instructions
for
very erect forms and make the following additional

is
When
the front measure
2 inches longer
than the back, draft line

1
(in the
back) from dot
under arm form the same length as line B in the side body. Measure up from dot 3) > n the under arm form) I inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 7 an d draft line B> extending inch below dot 3^ In drafting the front, lower the points of the darts 1 inch with the yi mark, curve in. The diagram will show the corand draft line
inch below dot 4ln the
I
2 to dot Make line A
5. draft line
(> n
the side form) beginning
rect draftings.
If you find alterations necessary they are usually caused by an error in taking measure in drafting, basting, or by a mistake on the part of the worker.
Always measure
neglect this.
for draftings before tracing
and cutting your
linings.
Do
not
'
.
ifie
waist,
it
draw
it
in
proper position on the form, then fasten
down
changes necessary. If you find wrinkles in the back near the neck, it is probably caused by a too long back measure. Open the shoulder seams and draw up the extra fullness from the back, this will necessitate the cutting off" of about 2 inch from line (J5
"iiit
and see
there
we any
If the waist, draws to one side evenly.

basting
it
is
because the center back seam was not joined
Rip the seam and make sure that the waist lines meet and that the directly in the tracing. Should the front of the waist bind across the bust it is because the bust measure has been taken too tight. Let out the under arm seam in most cases that will answer. When the waist is loose over the bust, the front measure has been taken too long. Open the shoulder seam and draw up the front to fit. It the front draws in the same place let it out at the
is
shoulder seams.
stretched.
If the arm's eye gaps in front,

a
it
is
because the lining has been
Take
small dart in the lining and then
draw
the outside material
Grean
Designer of
Liadies'
Costumes
Models for
And
the
and take out the extra fullness at the under arm seam. To obviate this trouble always run a small thread around the arm's eye when the basting is done. Fullness at the top of the last dart is caused by the lining being drawn too tight in seaming. Remove the basting and draw the material tight over the lining. For a French bias dart, fold a small plait in the lining at the point of dart towards the arm's eye before basting the lining to the goods. Wrinkles in the under arm form is usually caused by the front edge of the side body being stretched in basting to the under arm form. It will be necessary to open the seam and full the lining a little more on the under arm form and baste the stretched edge easy back again to the under arm form. Wrinkles between the last dart and the under arm form are usually caused bv the back seam of the dart being stretched. This side ot the dart should always
lining
smooth over the
be basted in easy.
Trade
COSTUMES TO ORDER
East 33d Street NEW YORK
Wrinkles are often caused by uneven stitching or too tight a tension on machine or the seams not being properly clipped. Fullness on the shoulder, near the neck, is caused by high shoulders. (See instructions to locate the Open the seam at the point of shoulder, this will allow height of shoulders.') the waist to drop and remove the fullness. This change will necessitate an alteration in the curved seam joining the back.
To Avoid
drafting
structions
is
Alterations.
Be very
careful in taking the measure.

in
See
that the
in :
properly done
for
and basted carefully

stitching
the
traced lines.
Read
basting
and
with
care
and
you
will
seldom
have
No. 19
alterations.
Pads can be made by cutting the lining the size required and place sufficient of cotton wadding to get the proper thickness. Draw out some ot the cotton at the edges to make it thin, then tack the lining, using an inch stitch,
layers
catching the lining very lightly.
These pads can be

a
lined
if
desired.
When
Formerly 327 Fifth Avenue
with
the
one shoulder
high
one.
is
lower than the other use
pad
to
make
it
correspond
For a flat one hip is high pad the other side. bust the dress can be cut two bust numbers larger and use canvas and cotton to When a woman has a full bust, and hollow next to the arm, use a enlarge. pad tacked under the shield.
When
INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAILORING.
To
cloth
obtain
the most
satisfactory results
sufficient
it
is
necessary to
to permit ot
select
its
an
all
wool
(not
dress
goods) with a
body
being shaped to
You cannot obtain the same effect in all cloths, some form with the iron. need much more pressing than others. All cloths for tailoring must be The most simple and effective sponged to prevent both shrinking and spotting. way to do do this is to take a piece of bleached or unbleached muslin 2 yard Wet it thoroughly and wring out well. longer than the cloth to be sponged.
the
will
Lay
fold)
cloth
the
2 y
muslin
yard from the end of muslin.
over the table, place the cloth on the muslin (leaving it in the Fold the end of muslin over the end of
and roll it all together smoothly and let it remain for 6 to 8 hours, as it After removing the goods from must be thoroughly and evenly dampened. sponges place it over the pressing board (which should be about 36 inches long and 20 inches wide) and press lengthwise of the cloth with a hot iron, placing
a
cotton
cloth
over tbe goods
to
prevent scorching,
be sure that the cloth
is
thoroughly dry before cutting, as it is not perfectly shrunk until dry. It is best (i thoroughly experienced) for all light or medium weight cloth to use a soft cambric interlining in coat or jacket. (See waist instructions for tracing, cut-
ting
jacket
and
basting.
it
is
well, particularly for

a
tailor
those inexperienced, to
fit
the
before
stitching.
Use
linen canvas for the front in the place ot
interlining,
using.
Cut
which should be thoroughly shrunk and pressed smoothly before the canvas and cloth according to the drafted instructions, including
at the shoulder, or to place a in according to the figure. (Lap all seams in canvas.) Place a dart in the arm's eye. You may find it necessary to take a plait at the waist line, from the dart to the under arm seam; cut and lap the seam. Cut and lap the regular dart seam, it will be necessary to use an extra-thickness of canvas, beginning about 2 or 3 inches below the point of the dart and extending to about 3 or 4 inches below the shoulder seam. When an extra foundation is required, an additional piece of canvas or hair cloth can be added
Baste the dart in the canvas, then join the front at the under arm and shoulder with the seams out, including the dart seam and shape the canvas perfectly to the form. This will require judgment, as a great deal of the fine work comes in here. You may find it necessary to stretch the canvas
the reveres.
seam
'
(see
diagram
for the shape of both.)

circles
Begin stitching
at the point
about inch apart (see dotted lines ready to be pressed into shape. Use the small pad and dampen when fullness is to be removed (use a hot iron.) Stitch the dart in the cloth and press open. Place the pocket in the r'oth before basting on the canvas. (See instructions
of dart, going around in in diagram. ) The canvas is now-
making pockets).
for
Take
the cloth and smooth

stitch.
<i
inch
line
mm
N ' $y \ \
and pin and around the arm's eye and down the under arm seam, then across the shoulder. Baste up line A and around the neck, then on the shoulder in traced lines and around the arm's eye y^ inch from the edge and in the traced lines down the under arm seam. Baste up the front and around the revere 3/ inch from the edge, and the full length of the front, each side of the dart. After stitching the back seams on the wrong side, trim the seam of the lining close to the stitching and press the seams open over a curved seam board. The cloth front must be made to fit the linen foundation perfectly. When the
stitch.
Stretch
it out over the canvas, basting in traced lines with Baste up each side of the dart to the shoulder, with a , viiiii i/ y^ inch the cloth over the canvas each side of the basting, e
down
cloth
is
tight
over
the
canvas
dampen and
stitch
to
fit.
Remove
1
all
fullness
over the
canvas by pressing, using a wet cloth and hot iron. ( See pressing.) Place an extra strip of canvas on the left side, inch from the edge,
stay for the buttons.
to
form a
Crease the revere, beginning on line (J, half wav between dots 2 and 3, ceasing it down as far as you may desire. The canvas should be slightly eased on the cloth before padding to permit the reveres to roll over
in position.
on the outside of the canvas stitches the full shape of the revere, leaving V2 inch at the edge (see diagram.) Baste a )4 inch tape around the revere and down the front, holding the edge easy to the tape, this will hold the revere in shape and give a firm edge. See instructions for pressing. Draft
stitch
(
padding should be done by sewing a aid catching the cloth with invisible
The
inch
the
Cut the canvas K inch larger all around the co'lar. Cut four pieces of cloth the same size as the canvas and join the back of the canvas and cloth for collar and facing separately. Press the seams open, bfp the canvas on the cloth easy (see dotted lines in the diagram for creasing.) Stitch with the canvas up in the dotted lines, stitching the balance towards the
collar
edge that joins the neck
inch apart.
left end and going back inch of the edge and end of collar. ( See pressing. Place the center ot the collar to the center of the back (canvas up) and baste a--ovrd each side to line AStitch a 3,i inch seam and press open. Baste
Pad the and forth
collar
the 'same as revere, beginning at the

1/
within
around the
stitch
fold
of the collar and

for
down
the fold of the revere with an overhand

.
to
)
prepare
pressing (see instructions for pressing)
The
facing must
be cut
ovtes
Join
inch longer than the front, to allow for easing, and to extend from the :f the shoulder to the front of the dart, continuing straight down the
coat.
length of the
the
collar
Notch
the facing at line
in the
neck and
to within
also at dot 3.
1
facing to
the revere facing from line
inches of
line A the same below line A on the jacket. Shape the bottom ot the coat the length desired. Cut a bias piece of canvas 3 inches deep and stretch to fit the coat at the bottom and baste in. Turn up the bottom of coat }4 inch deep. Trim out each seam to prevent bulk. After pressing the fold in the collar and revere, arrange the facing by placing the back seam in the collar right side of facing to cloth, placing edge of facing yi ncn outside of the edge of coat; basting the cloth easy to collar. See that the seam that joins the revere and collar together are placed over the corresponding seam in the jacket, then baste the
dot
3 on
the shoulder.
the
See that the collar facing extends below

is
distance
that
collar
facing along the revere,

to
easy
to
the break, break.
then quite
full
for
or
4 inches
Continue basting, holding the facing easy to the end. To stitch, place on the machine, facing down, and seam Trim the canvas close to the seam; trim y inch on canvas all around. the cloth a trifle wider than the canvas and trim the facing a trifle wider than the cloth, this will avoid a heavy seam. When basting over the edge of facing, baste with strong cotton and a small stitch, working out the edge of cloth even with the edge of facing with the fingers, also see that the corners are turned out well. Remove the basting when the roll has been pressed. Arrange the facing over the creased roll in the collar and revere and baste with an overhand stitch. Basie down the front of facing with a catch stitch to hold the facing in position on the canvas (see pressing.) Stitch the edge to correspond with the stitching on the pocket. Place the button holes on the right side (see instructions for
over the
prevent tightness
lite
Styles
fashion Journal
making button
holes
and putting on
buttons')
Subscription Price $1.50 per year.
See Instructions for Cutting, Basting and Pressing Sleeves. Open the back seam from 6 to 8 inches from the wrist up. Cut the canvas on the bias, from
Stitching deep and baste even with the bottom of the sleeve. upper part of canvas to correspond with stitching in the coat. Join the sleeve and turn in the bottom yi mc h and catch to canvas. See instructions
2 /4 to 5 inches
at
PUBLISHED MONTHLY.
the
There
price.
is
no better Fashion Journal

for
for pressing.
FLAP POCKET.
published,
It
general
use,
at
any
has
more than double the

other
strictly
circulation
than any
Fashion Journal.
You
can send sub-
scriptions direct to us or to the publishers,
but kindly mention that you

in
The flap is to be lined with soft canvas or heavy silesia. Cut the lining 4 ]/, by 2^4 inches. Cut two pieces of cloth (running the same thread as the goods), one for the flap and one for the facing, which should be \ inch larger all around. Baste the small piece of cloth on the lining for flap and round off the lower front corner. Cut the back end of the flap, beginning 3 3 inch from the end and slanting to the lower corner. Baste the flap to the facing, stitch y^ inch from the edge all around (omitting the top), with the canvas up. Trim the canvas close to the seam, the cloth a shade larger than the canvas and the facing
shade larger than the cloth. Turn the facing over, rolling the edge slightly towards you and baste. Baste across the center part of flap and stitch the edge to compare with the coat. Press over a damp cloth. Cut two pieces of lining 4 by 6 inches, place the flap to the marked line on the coat, the lower edge up,
a
saw the advertisement
our Book.
VIENNA INSTITUTE
5
West 14th
St.,
N. Y. City, U.
S.
A.
the
facing out. Baste with a y inch stitch yi mcn h" "1 the bottom edge. Stitch the flap Baste one piece of lining close to the edge of flap tor pocket.
manner with
Cut
the
with a yl inch seam fastening well at each end. Stitch the lining in the same a yfo inch seam. Cut the pocket, starting in the center and cutting to within y^ inch from the ends and mitre the corner to the upper seam.
canvas from the back
at
on the seam
the right side.
Trim
of the seam and turn the flap down and baste the lining in the opening and baste down.
Take
across the
part ot lining and baste to the back of the upper seam. Stitch upper edge of flap on the right side for a finish, it will also seam the lining. Shape the pocket lining on the wrong side. A bar tack should be placed on each end of the pocket. Place a damp cloth on the wrong side and
the other
press
heavy.
For
cut.
cents
we
will
send a cambric model ot any pocket,
seamed and
SILK
LINING COAT.
Cut
is
the
silk
lining for front
large
enough
to allow a plait
inch deep, which
back can be 'lit The under with or without a seam, allowing for a plait 3/ inch deep for ease. arm shape and side forms are cut the same as the draftings (all parts of the lining
placed from
the top of the shoulder to. dart for ease.
The
should be cut )i inch higher at the top and I inch longer at the bottom and all curved seams should be clipped.) Fold a plait in the center of the back and press to keep in position. Pin the lining to the center back at the waif line
up the back, keeping the fold in the center by pinning every 3 or 4 inches. Pin line K in the same manner, then pin the shoulder and down the arm's eye. Pin the lining in position beiow the waist line. Ttr^. the lining to the seam of the shoulder and to the seams on line P' n the siae form on, Kbeginning in the center at the waist line and pinning every 3 or 4 inches up the center. Crease the lining even with line K, and pin and baste to the seam ready
the
lining
for felling.
ease
Baste line
A to
Pin
in
position
below the waist
the seam, allowing ) inch fullness across the form. line. Baste the under arm shape in the same
manner.
or
Shape the dart in the lining to fit the coat ; pin the lining at the top the dart, then across each side of the dart. Fold the plait in from the top ot the dart to the shoulder. Begin at the underarm seam and pin aiound the arm's eye across the shoulder and down the front as far as the top of the dart. Pin
the point of the dart to the waist line.
down from
line
Notch the seam
at
the waist
To Match
Stripes, Plaids, Figures
and Diagonals.
Be careful in drafting your linings. Cut the back first. Now take the back and match it perfectly on the goods, both faces up. Now take
the lining and replace
it it
above and pin down below the waist line. Finish pinning down the front. Pin across the bottom, easing the lining up about \i inch. Pin up the under arm seam 1 inch in from line ECrease the lining at line an d P' 11 and baste. Crease the shoulder at line Q and pin. Crease and pin the lining from the back to shoulder, down the front and around the bottom. Basle, keeping, the edge even. Fell all seams and the edge neatly.
2 inches
and
Instructions
basting.
Notch
for Basting Sleeve. Stitch' the seams y( inch inside of the the inside seam and press open. Turn the sleeve wrong side out.
Slip the lining
Turn
the lining right side out.

the
lining
on the sleeve, placing the seams
together, leaving
the seams 3 or
inch longer at the bottom.
Tack
the lining at
on the back
exact, and do
4 inches
apart.
Fold
the
in the lining to
within 'g inch of the bot-
tom of
sleeve
the sleeve.
Turn
and
the sleeve right side out and place basting arourtd the
top.
being careful to have

not
about
the
inches from
lining)
Place
the
sleeve in the
same
as waist
(omitting
press.
move
the goods.
Take
line
Place the lining of coat over the seam and

_.
the side
directly
body lining and place

over line
ful
Crease in the sleeve lining inch and pin at the back and front seam. Arrange the fullness around the top and pin in position all around and fell.
tack.
in the
back, being carewaist

lines
TO SEW ON BUTTONS.
to
have
the
even.
Now
pin the side body lining
fast
and
side
Fold
the
right
side over the
left.
See that the waist

the
lines
meet and
that the
remove the back and cut the

body, being very careful not to
it.
reveres are even at
the top and that

first
buttonholes are directly over the stay.
move
Place a pin through the
The whole
secret
is
to
match
this rule
move the button Use linen thread

should
holes
end of each from the pins.
buttonhole to the opposite end.

Place the button at the
first
Re-
pin mark.
or twist double in sewing a button on.
Buttons having holes
the sewing
in
lines.
Follow
parts.
matching the other
knot in the thread, take a small stitch in the cloth, catching the stay and being careful not to catch the facing. To form a shank draw up the button and twist the thread around twice
very tight between the button and cloth. Take a stitch across the twisted thread and back through the cloth. Twist again and fasten the thread with two or three stitches through the shank and cloth. Cut the thread close to the shank.
be sewed
on loosely.
Instead of making a
When
ous
covered
buttons
stitch in the cloth,
instructions.
are used sew through the shank, firmly taking a small always catching the stay and fasten the same as in the previButtons with wire shanks should be attached by piercing a
small
hole and
placing the
with the button hole.

thread.
When
shank of the button through, having it run Parallel on the under side with a shank ring oi hea.'/ buttons are to be used as a trimming thev should be sewed on
Finish
without forming a shank.
do pressing successfully it is absolutely necessary to have the proper A curved seam board, a large pressing board about 36 inches long and 20 inches wide (for skirts.) A large and a small Dad and a sleeve pad and a set of regular tailoring irons (for 50 cents we will sc.id a pattern of the curved seam board and pads with instructions for making.) /
implements.
All canvas used in tailoring
To
work must be shrunk.
Thoroughly dampen w\C:
a sponge and
board.
full
press lengthwise until
dry over a large pressing board.
Never
the
press a curved seam over a straight surface or a straight seam over a curved seam
Place
the seams over the seam board perfectly smooth and

Press slowly
dampen
and carefully, bearing well in the iron to make a flat seam. All coats should have the edges and reveres stayed with a narrow strip of linen or tape on the wrong side and it should be put on tight when shrinking is necessary. Dampen well with sponge and press
length of the seam with a sponge.
the edges in the shape required. All
pressing
should be done on the
wrong
side,
except the finished pressingPlace the collar on the
Take
the
collar
and dampen
at
both edges and stretch thoroughly by pressing

well with sponge.
with a hot iron, being careful not to press out of shape.

board, the stitched side up.
collar
Dampen
Hold one end of
the
up and press
Dampen
form of a hoop, so as to obtain a round effect. (Use this the revere along the fold and press in the same manner.
in
the
instruction after facing the collar and revere.)
Do
not press the fold of the col-
lar or revere fiat in any stage of the pressing.
To press the facing on a coat, take a strip of wet muslin and place over the edge of the facing and press. Remove the damp cloth and finish pressing over Before placing the continue, including the collar and revere. a dry cloth |
lining
in
the
bottom of the sleeve

pressing, the
the seams
should
be well
pressed again.
For
that
finished
sleeve
should be slipped over the pad shaped for
purpose.
Wet
cloth
press
with a hot iron, using judgment to press
and wring out well and place over the sleeve and It is it into the proper shape.
often
(It
necessary to press over several times before obtaining satisfactory results
depends greatly on the kind of material.) When the sleeve is stitched in The the seam must be pressed open over the end of the curved seam board. The entire finished pressing of the coat should be done over the large pad.
99
coat
be pressed, using a wet cloth and hot iron in order to remove all and give a fine finish. . To remove shine caused by pressing, use a thoroughly wet cloth and a very hot iron. Place the coat over the pad, lay the wet cloth lightly over the shine, hold the hot iron near the wet cloth with the right hand, with the left hand raise the wet cloth against the iron, this will force the steam directly on the shine. Nevr allow the weight of the iron on the cloth.
should
creases
BUTTON HOLES.
For practice use
a
No.
7 needle
and No. 40 thread and two or more thicka little larger
nesses of cotton cloth basted together.
Cut the button hole (which should be

button
)
than the diameter of the
with button hole
scissors.
left
Then
place the strip of cloth over the fore fingers of the
hand, holding
it
in position
with the thumb and second finger.

See diagram No. pp. underside
or
;
Hold
the end of the thread near

the edge and inside
the folded edge.
Insert the needle from the
4 threads from
insert the
end of the hole. at the outside end
Draw
the needle through
needle, point from you,
of the button hole, the
in first instructions, taking
same distance from the edge of hole as up an equal number of threads from the opposite side.
at the inside
Draw
the
.
the
needle
through and repeat

over
this
end, the point of the needle
towards
you.
Go
instruction the second time, this forms the bar for
button hole.
Overcast the button

this
hole, being
careful
to
hold the barring near the edge.
Take Muslin
Tailor
stitch
inch apart, taking care to include the bar.

hole
stitch.
When
finished
overcasting
(in muslin
begin
button
Insert the
needle in the right hand end
end) of the button hole, point towards you, taking Draw the needle and thread through. Insert the needle again, a thread or two from the first stitch, pushing the needle half way through. Now throw the thread under the point from right to left. Draw the needle and thread out at right angles with the slit, the twist coming at Continue in this manner, being careful to take the the top edge of the slit. In turning the end take 7 or 8 stitches and work the other side Pitches evenly. Now insert the needle through the first button hole stitch, draw .0 the end. Where the side and the .1.^ it through and bringing it out on the opposite side.
begin at the
left
stitch the
same depth
as in overcasting.
"
:-
-;
barring meet, repeat the stitch twice, then hold the thread under the
left
thumb.
.RePlace the needle under the end of the bar, taking up a couple of threads. peat in the middle and at the other end of the bar, drawing the thread through
^S^ @L ^52^
and
finishing
on the wrong
side.
Diagram No. 100 shows the
different button
THREAU
Thread Thread Thread Thread Thread
NEEDLES.
20, 24 and 30, use No: 5 needle 36 and 40, use No. 6 needle.
;o and 60, use No. 7 needle. 70 and 80, use No. 8 needle. 90 and 100, use No. 9 needle.
of the thread to be used depends upon the quality of the work. a knot hold the end of the thread between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, wind the thread once around the end of finger, twist the end twice into the loop with the thumb. With the middle finger pull the loop to
The
size
To make
the end.
Hold the needle Place the thimble on the second finger ot the right hand. between the thumb and fore finger of the right hand, the eye of the needle on the thimble; press the needle gently between thumb and fore finger.
Always pin
carefully before basting.
If the materials are
silk
or velvet, use
needles instead of pins).
Use No.
only one
puckering.
this
50 thread and No.

at
stitch
time.
In even
is
In learning to baste take 7 needles (sharps.) Careful basting prevents the seam or goods from basting make the stitch about l 2 inch long on either side,
used for seams of dress waists and where two or more Uneven basting is mostly used over large thicknesses of material is used. Take 1 inch long on surfaces and skirt seams and as a guide for stitching.
way
of basting
upper side and
inch on lower. jj Diagrams Nos. 101 and 102 shows even and uneven
basting.
BACK STITCH.
Use No. 50
finger,
tnread and
it
No.
7 needle.
Hold
the material over the
left tore
Insert the needle with the thumb and second finger. Draw the needle out from right to left, pushing the needle nearly through. Repeat, taking up with the thread running between the third and little finger. stitch desired. a little of the cloth with the needle, according to the size of Fasten the end by taking two other stitches over the last stitch.
holding
in place
Diagram No. 103 shows

back
stitch.
the proper stitch.
a halt
RUNNING STITCH.
Hold the material between the Use No. 50 thread and No. 7 needle. Take even stitches the same as even thumb and fore finger of the left hand. Begin at the right hand corner and take stitch over tore basting, only smaller.
105
finger.
This
stitch
is
used
when
stitch
there
is
no. great strain
on
.the
seam, and
it
is
also
used as'a gathering stitch for
ruffles
and tops of skirts.
ts/ ;//:/ /// // ''fa /
-^
M
on
cloth.
RUNNING BACK STITCH.
#2 4
'
Take up two
space between.
///AA,
A
-
more yi inch stitches on the needle at one time witn /% inch Repeat beginning in the middle of the last stitch. tor a running back stitch is used when you require a stronger seam than
or
stitch.
I
running
106
Djagiani ô.
ob shows
running back
stitch.
To
the width of
form a hem, turn the edge of the material J^ inch and crease, then fold hem desired and baste near the edge of the first fold (on woolen or
the
first
soft materials baste
narrow
it
fold also. )
ger ot the
sert
left
hand, holding
in place with the
Hold the hem over the first thumb and second finger.
fin-
In
the
needle in the edge of fold, point from
hem,
taking
up two or three
threads.
you, y inch from the end of Pull the needle through, holding the end
07
under the thumb. Now place the needle through the end of the hem, needle pointing towards the left shoulder; take up two or three threads of the cloth and the same of the fold. Continue taking the size stitch desired, being careful to make the stitches even. In starting a new thread, place the end 01 the previous thread under the hem and start as beginning. Always cut, never
ot the thread
break the thread.
To
fasten at the finish take
two or
three stitches over the
last
one taken.
Diagram No. 107 shows the
stitch
needle in position.
OVERHANDINC.
To
overnand
is
to
join the edges
of cloth together, the edge can be selvedge
or creased fold.
108
Use a No. 70 thread and No. 8 needle. Hold the material along the edge and around the end of the left fore finger, keeping it in place with the thumb and second finger. In starting the seam, hold the two ends between the thumb inch from and fore finger, inserting the needle in the edge nearest to you and the end. Draw the needle through, holding the end of the thread under the Now insert the needle at the end of the goods in the edge nearest to thumb. Draw the needle through and place it you, the needle pointing towards you. Make through both ends of goods, taking -up two or three threads of the cloth. the stitch close and regular. Diagram No. 108 shows an overhand seam with needle in position.
OVERCASTING.
Overcasting
is
done bv taking
a
a slanting
stitch
over the raw edge of goods to
prevent ravelling.
09
No. 8 needle. Trim the edges neatly before hand end of the seam. Hold the work over the fore finger of the left hand. Take a slanting stitch J<fj inch deep and } inch apart as shown in diagram No. 109. Continue in this manner, being careful to make the stitch even. Do not make the stitch tight.
Use No.
70 thread and
Begin
at
overcasting.
the
left
GATHERING.
A
and
gathering stitch
is
to take
up
several stitches
on the needle having the space
stitch equal size, or the
space can be double the size of the stitch.
If for a skirt, first fold and mark the Use No. 40 thread and No. 7 needle. of the front. Take thread the length of l 2 the width of skirt at top Insert the needle on the wrong side and run an even stitch to the center of the
center
front. Gather the other side in like manner, beginning at the center of front around to the back. Draw up the thread to the size of the band and fasten around a pin. In using a double gathering be careful to. have the stitch directly under the first. Double gathering is generally used on woolen materials and long stitches
should be taken
if there is
much
fullness.
Diagrams Nos. 1 10 and I I 1 shows single and double gathering. Diagram No.. 1 1 2 shows gathering inserted in the band. Diagram No. I I 3 shows gathering overhanded to the band.
Shirring
other.
is
done by making
the required
several
rows of gathering
directly
under each
other.
number or rows at the desired distance from each The gathering can be drawn up on the threads or bv cords run between
1
Mark
he rows.
Diagram No.
14 shows the shirring and
stitch.
FELL.
a seam hemmed down and is used principally for underwe-. seam to be felled 3 inch deep with a running back stitcn. /& Pea' 2 of the seam next to you. Fold the seam towards you, turning under yi of the broad seam to make a narrow hem. The fell can also be made by placing the inner edge }i inch below the other. Diagram No. 1 1 5 shows a fell with needle in position.
fell is
Join the
FRENCH SEAM.
LI 2
A French seam is made by taking a very narrow seam with the wrong sides of the materials together. Place the edges evenly, taking a small seam with a running stitch, and then turn the wrong sides towards vou. Fold the right sides together and crease at the seam, then stitch second seam with a halfback stitch,
so that the
raw edges
are enclosed.
jJLIND
OR
SLIP
STITCH.
This stitch is used for fastening the roiled and invisable hem to attach folds to garments, also the milliner's fold. For invisable hem take up one or two threads of the cloth and before drawing the needle out, take up 1^ inch of the edge of
the fold.
In making a rolled hem and attaching folds to garments, the needle placed that the inside section of the outside is caught to the under pieces.
is
so
Ficure No.
The
uppe.
stitch
is
shows an ordinary catch stitch used to fasten down edges. 1 worked from right to left. The needle is set for a stitch in the
for a similar stitch in the
row and then
lower row.
See diagram .leedle
in position.
Figure No.
shows
the
same
stitch
used to
finish a
hem.
Figure No. 3 shows a single feather stitch. This is also known as a herring bone or briar stitch. This stitch is worked lengthwise. Start from the right, then to the left, keeping an even line. See diagram needle in position.
Figure No. 4 shows the same stitch applied and finished with the stitching.
2 represents a
is
to a
hem.
The
latter is
turned
to the right side
See diagram needle
in position.
Figure No.
elaborate stitch
double feather
stitch.
This
is
used
when
more
desired.
See diagram needle in position.
Figure No.
shows the anchor
finished.
stitch
Figure No. 8 shows the Kensington Figure No. 9 shows the chain
Ficures No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and process of making and finished.
with the needle in position.
stitch
with the needle
in position.
6 show
different styles
of arrow heads in the
TO MAKE A CORRECT
BIAS.
the edge and crease the bias fold
Take the corner of the goods and fold over so that the end and cut. Diagram No. 10 shows bias strips cut and how to join.
will
be even with
IJ 5
TUCKING.
tuck
is
a fold
made
in the material for a trimming.
Use No.
7 needle and
No. 60
thread.
7 ake a piece of stiff paper 3 or 4 inches long and I inch wide. Cut first notch on paper the width of tuck desired. Cut a second notch three times the width of tuck from the end of paper, this will allow the rucks to meet. Should space be desired between the tucks, the distance required must be added to the
second notch. Now fold the goods on the line of a thiead at the desired location of the tuck. Place the end of paper on the edge of the fold and mark with pencil or pin at the first notch. Move the paper 1 inch to the left and mark again and
continue until
tuck
is
finished.
Now
baste or stitch the tuck.
To make
second tuck place the end of the paper on the edge of the first tuck and mark at the second notch through the single of the goods same as in first tuck, then crease in rhe marked line, then mark a second tuck the same as the first. Now baste
or stitch the
same
as
first
tuck.
Continue in
this
manner
until the desired
num-
ber of tucks are finished.
A
to
plait is a fold
generally placed lengthwise of the goods.

plait desired.
plait.
First fold the
edge of goods under the width of

the edge three times the width
Then measure
fold and bring meet the edge of the under fold and tack at top of plait. Continue in this manner for the number of plaits desired. Be careful that the fold is laid evenly to the bottom. Tacking each plait to keep in place for pressing (pressing must always be done on the wrong side), this forms a knife plaiting. When less fullness is desired a space can be left between the plaits. For box plaiting begin at the center, folding the plait under at the right and then at the left, the width desired. Always tack plait For a double box plait, fold in another plait at each side.
the
left
from
of
Now
edge back
to
in fold at
the top Co
keep
in position.
Only
press
when
a flat plait is desired.
Fig.
A
inches
placket
is
an opening
is
made
in
a skirt.
The
opening
is
from
5 to
10
long
and
usually placed in the center of the back seam.
Turn
the
fly
I
in the
right side
of the opening the width of the seam to the top of the

14
skirt.
Fold the
J^ to
lining in
2 inches
inch from the edge and
fell
down
to the cloth.
Cut
Turn in the opposite side wide and 1 inch longer than the opening. of cloth the same width as the seam. Attach the fly to the under edge of the fold and sew it on with a running back stitch. Turn the lining in towards the fly and fell down as on the opposite side. Tack the fly across the bottom on the wrong side with a back stitch wi f hout catching through. A placket in children's cloths shou:d be from 4 to 6 inches long. It is sometimes formed in the seam- of the garment, or it can be cut in the middle of the width. At the right of the opening make a hem 3^ inch wide, the full length. Fold the At the left make a 1^ inch hem, bringing it to a point at the bottom. right side over on the left hem, forming a plait the width of the large hem. Fasten with a small back stitch to the end of the opening.
A
and
cut
gusset
as
is
a piece
stay in
an
desired.
in
Take
the fold.
of cloth cut in the shape of a triangle and used to enlarge, It can be cut any size opening at the end of a seam. piece of cloth 2 by^2 inches and fold to form a triangle and Always set a gusset into a seam, never into a rent made by-
cutting
down, as the hem on edge cannot be well finished ready for gussets. Put a row of stitching across the bias fold of gusset after set in.
Velvets and plush should be
made with
the nap or pile running up.
Cloths and
all
other wool fabrics should be
made with
the nap or pile running
down.
Always
cut, never tear the goods.
Clip
all
selvedges or cut off entirely before sewing.
Baste velvet with sewing
silk,
never with cotton or linen thread.
Hold
together.
velvet
lightly
when
sewing.
Use an
extra piece of velvet, both piles
Sponge
all
woolen cloths before cutting and making up.
Never
piece a skirt at the top to lengthen
it.
Always
cut the thread, never break
it.
When
soil
taking
out stitches pick one out
at a
time, being careful not to
mar
or
the work.
Select
thread or
silk a
shade darker than the material,
as
it
will
work
lighter.
The warp
crosswise.
threads
of
cloth run
lengthwise.
The
filling
or
woor runs
The
look
as
pile or
if
two shades had been
nap should always run the same way, otherwise the garment will This applies to all changeable goods, used.
cashmeres and Henrietta cloths.

material Folds or creases in fabrics must be removed before the
is
made
up.
For
Henrietta
cloths
and
lining
light
and
baste
between the
weight silks, split a sheet of cotton wadding and goods with the rough side next to the goods.
Always
interline velvet
with
fine crinoline.
IO
The
In
slightest deviation
from your measure will often
spoil the
garment.
tacking
shields
care
should be taken
to
catch in the binding, not through
the rubber.
Defects in the form should be overcome by padding.
known agents to remove grease spots or soil if pieceôf white cotton cloth under the spot or garment Place a properly used. Apply with a soft piece of white muslin. to be cleaned to prevent stain marks. rub with a dry cloth untiL all dampness is removed. After the spot is removed
Naptha
or benzine are the best
Do
not
have any
fire near.
remove creases in crapes and velvets, heat a pressing iron c?0 Place a wet cloth over the iron and hold the material hold it bottom up. down to the wet cloth so that the steam will be forced through.
To
hot, place or
e
BOY'S SHIRT WAIST.

l A and B /z inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line B, and place dot 2-
Draft lines
fr
line
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
Measure
place dot 7-
inch
more than y
of"
bust measure
on
line
from
line
A. and
point of curve inch in from dot 7 on line E, and draft line F end of line ]). Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2, and place dot 8Measure straight down from dot 1 the length of under arm and place dot 9. Draft line G from dot 8. to dot 9. Measure I inches more than y( of the waist measure on line G from dot 8, and place dot 10to the
Place the
Draft line H from dot 7 to dot 10. Measure 4'- inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot Measure ) inch out from dot and place dot 12. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12.
H.
Draft line
straight in
from dot 12
as for
to line
A.
Take measure
the
same
children and omit taking the front measure.
MEASURE 8 YEARS.
Bust
"Vaist
_
2 ;
_ _
>ack
23 I2 i^
r
,
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye.
1/
NECK BAND.
Draft lines
A
C
and
Measure
Draft line
yi
the shirt neck measure
i%
inch from the edge and end of goods. on line from line B, and place inches straight out from dot 2.
dot.
2.
Measure Measure
y inches on
line
zi/^ inches out line
from dot 2, and place dot 3. from line A, and place dot 4.
Draft line j) from the end of line C to dot 4. Measure I inch in from dot 4 on line B and place dot 5, Measure |/ inch on line from dot 4, and place dot 6. Draft line E from dot 5 to dot 6.
f\
rg
on dot 5 and on dot 6 and Allow y inch for seams on

Q Q
draft line
draft line
lines
F G
to dot 2. to dot 3.
and G.
BOY'S COAT.
BACK.
A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on B, and place dot 2.
Draft lines
line
from line
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
^ and draft line E to the end of line D. Measure the length of" back down line A fr m dot 2, and place dot 8. Measure the length of coat on line A from dot 2, and place dot 9.
Draft line
straight out
from dot 8.
dot 8. and place dot 10. below dot 2 and draft to dot 10. inches below dot 8.
Measure j inch on line F from Draft line Q, beginning 6 inches Extend line Q to meet line A. 5 Measure 2 inches less than i^
place dot
of waist measure on
line
fr
dot 8. and
H.
Q
J
straight out
Place letter
Draft line
on dot 7. and draft line from dot 9.
to dot
H.
Measure Ijt inch more than the distance between dots 8 and and place dot 12Continue line H from dot 11 to dot 12.
from dot 9
BOY'S COAT.
FRONT.
Draft line
A
B
Draft line
2 inches from the edge of cloth. one inch from the end of cloth.
Measure the distance given and place dot 2-
in the
neck table under dot 2 n
line
fr
'>
ne
XECK TABLE.
Dot 2
and i* m between dots Measure down line H from dot 9, the distance ,. j the back and place dot 13. between dots inch more more than the distance Measure down from dot 8
,
Placer ton l!
curve on dot 14 and i3, the ed g e of

the end of line
draft line
to
^ PlLe"
lines
hr
h
pofn t
O
this
tit on
J and
draft to the junction
of
and A.
draft
To
coat
double breasted, follow the dotted
lines.
Cut
the collar
on the biasot the
material.
BOY'S COAT SLEEVE.
UPPER SLEEVE.
Draft line
Draft line
A % B %
'
Measure Measure
place dot 3-
from the edge ot cloth. m the end ot cl ? th; from line B, and place dot 2inch on line measure on line less than the hand
in
inches fr
inches
from hne A. and
Drzft line
from dot
less
to dot 3-
Measure .inch
P
than
the length of sleeve on
me
D from hne B, and

,.
^Measure' V, inch
straight out
less
Measure
%
,
inch
from dot 4 and place dot 5from dot 5 of arm's eye measure straight out than
"Ivlt^
place dot 7-
inch more than
V 2
the length of sleeve from dot

,
4 on
line
A, and
Draft line
A Measure ; Measure . 7, and place dot 9j i i dot 10 and place dot \\. Measure . inch straight down from draft line E to dot 5Place letter S on dot 2 and extend line E to dot 8^ Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line F to dot *. point of curve on dot 9 and Place the dot 9 dot 11 and draft me G to point of curve on Place the on dot 6 and draft line H to dot 1L Place letter S dot &. on dot 6 and extend line H to Place letter
\%
from dot 79 inches straight out from dot 7, and place dot 8 inches down line of arm's eye measure on hne than inches more
from dot
Allow
Xt inches
Mow
/inch
(See diagram on the lower end of sleeve for facing. Cut on lines F and Gfor seams on lines E and H-
UNDER SLEEVE.
Draft line
Draft line
I
Measure Measure \ Inches A, and place dot 3

Draft line
cloth A % inch from the edge ofot cloth % inches from the end B place dot 2inch up line A from line B. and the hand
-
'
less
thin the measure around
on hne
rrom hne
Measure
?
.inch
from dot 2> to dot 3,. the length of sleeve on hne less than
.-
from
id
line
.,, B, and
i
Measure
Measure
l%
and place dot 5, inch straight out from dot 4 straight out from dor the arm's eve measure inches less than
Meat
"
Measure 2% inches down Measure 3/ inch down line Measure finches less than
on P;l length of sleeve dot from
line
from dot
4 and
place dot 7-
A *
7 and place dot 8 from dot 8, and place dot 9the
from dor 7 arm's eve measure stra.ghr out

draft line
"'plirtht
!)
pit
of curve on dot
9 and
to dot
10-
Note-To place dot 10 measure % place dot 10ure eft line D from dot 7 and
> s than
arm
'
^ "^
Place the
point ot curve
on
line
z inches
rrom dot
9 and
draft to dot 8-
(See diagram).
Place letter Place letter Place letter
Place letter
S S S G
on on on on
dot
dot
to dot 8dot 6 and draft line P to dot 1 Q. dot 6 and extend line F to dot 3-
2 and draft line E 5 and extend line
to dot 5-
Allow Allow
J/
(See diagram). y^ inches on the lower end tor facing. inch seam on lines E and FCut on line D-
BOY'S COAT COLLAR.

Draft lines
Measure Measure
Draft line
and B J^ ' ncn fr m the edge and end or goods. inch on line f rom une B> and place dot 22 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3-
3/jj
C
1
from dot 2
inch more
Measure
place dot 4-
to dot 3than l/ of neck measure on line 2
trom dot 2> and
Draft line
Place letter
D 3 inches straight out H or dot 3 and draft

>
from dot
line
4 and
dot 5-
place dot 5-
to
Measure \i inch out from dot 4 an d
draft a slightly
curved line to meet line
2 inches
Line
from dot 4. sews on the coat.
Cut
the collar on
the bias of goods.
MEASURE FOR BOY

Chest Waist Back
YEARS.
25 23 \z)/ z
5 z ]/

Sleeve.
.
10
13
_
Hand
Length of Coat
17 7 21
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR BOY

Chest.
COAT.
Take Take measure Buck. Measure from back Under Arm. Take measure up under Take measure around Arm' neck smooth. Neck. Around of S/eeve.rom hand Hand. Around
Waist.
this
this measure around the chest smooth not tight.
rather snug.
the large joint in the
ot the
neck
to the waistline.
this
well
the
arm down
to the waist line.
Eye.
th's
over the point of shoulder smooth.
the bare
the point
shoulder to wrist.
the
tight.
BOY'S KNEE PANTS.

A and B '2 ncn from the edge and end of cloth. Measure 3^ inch on line B fr m line A> and place dot 2' Measuie l 2 inch less than of the waist measure on line B fr m doc 2 and place dot 3Measure 6*4 inches down line A fr m ne B> ar| d place dot 4Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure down line A from line B> the outside leg measure, and place dot 5.
Draft lines
i
'>
Draft line
straight out
trom dot 5.
7-
Measure lA inch on line D from dot 5 a "d place dot 6. Measure up line A fr m dot 5. the inside leg measure, and place dot Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 6, extending inch below dot 61
3t=S=lf
Draft line
straight out
less
from dot 7.
Measure }4 inch
place dot 8.
than j{ of the hip measure on line
from dot 7, and
Measure
place dot 9.
)A
inch
less
than
the
measure around the knee from dot 6 and

dot
Measure
inch straight
down from
.of"
9 and
10.
place dot 10.
Draft line
from the end
line
to dot
line
Place letter Place
H on dot
10
and
draft
to dot 8.
the corner of square on dot 3. the short
arm on
line
B, and
draft line
straight
down
to line F.
Measure
z inches
up
line
from
line
F, and place dot
H.
Place letter
on dot
1 1
and
draft
line
to dot 8.
BACK.
Draft lines
and
'_>
inch from the edge and end of cloth.

in
Measure the distance given
the table (according to waist measure) on line
from
line
and place dot 2.

zi/i
Dot 2
Waist Measure
Â
22 23
*H
24 25
line
20 21
inches
3/4 26 27 28 29
Measure
more than
of waist measure on
from
line
and place dot 3.

Draft line
C
1
from dot 2 to dot 3.
Measure
Measure Measure
Place
line
inch on line
}( inches from dot

+ inch
'
on
line
from dot 2 and place dot 4. 4 on line (J, and place dot 5. C from dot 5, and place dot
6.
the
corner of square
on dot 6, the edge even with

line
D down 4^ inches. Draft line E from the end

Measure
I
line (J,
and draft
of
to dot 5.
inches straight
down
down
Place the corner of square on dot 4, the short arm on dot the distance of outside leg measure.
7 and
draft line
Measure 6 inches down

Draft line
Draft line
H
J
Measure
yt.
line F from dot 4, and place dot 8. inch in towards line from dot 8from dot 2 to the end of line G. inch less than the outside leg measure on line from dot 2, and
1
place dot 9Draft line
straight out
Measure the length of

Draft line
inside leg
from dot 9. measure up

from dot 10.
line
from dot 9 and piace dot
straight out
Measure J^ inch 0.1 line J in from line F, and place dot H. Measure 1 inch straight down from dot and place dot 12. Place letter on dot 12 and draft line L to meet line F 2 % inches below
line
K.
Measure \]/ inches more than 2 from line F and place dot 13. Measure inch more than 2
%
2 y
of the measure around the hips on
line
and place dot 14-
the measure around the knee from dot 1
down from dot 14 and place dot 15. from dot 12 to dot 15. Place letter on dot 15 and draft line to dot 13. Measure 2 inches in from dot 13 on line and place dot 16. Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter C on dot 17 and draft line to dot 13.
1
Measure
inch straight
Draft line
Dfl
Extend
line
from dot 17
to
dot 3.
BOY
KNEE PANTS MEASURE.

8
YEARS.
Waist Hips
Inside
24
Leg Measure
34 I o
18
Outside Leg Measure
Knee
11^
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR KNEE PANTS.
Take Take Take
the waist measure easy not tight. the hip measure snug.
the inside leg measure from the crotch the length desired.
Outside leg measure from waist Knee. Around the knee snug.
line the length desired.
MEN'S SACK COAT.

FRONT.
Draft lines
A an d B lA ncn from the edge and end of goods. Measure J^ of the neck measure on line A from line B. an d place dot 2Measure inch less than 2 the neck measure on line B from line A> an d
' l
>
'
place dot 3-
Measure Measure
inch in from dot
3 an d
'
Ys,
inches straight
ar| d
down and
place dot
inch straight out from dot
pl a ce
dot 5-
Place letter
on dot 5
dot
ar>d draft line
t0 dot 4-
Place letter
C on
an d draft
to dot 3-
Measure
V?
of the arm's eye measure on
line
Place letter \J on dot 5 an d draft to meet line 4 inches below dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6 an d draft line straight out 8 inches,
A from A
line
B>
ar, d
place dot 6.
beginning 8 inches from dot
(j
Measure 3 \? inches less than \-c of the chest measure on line D fr m dot Q, and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on line A a "d measure down the length of front measure less the length of line C > n the back and place dot 8Measure lA inch less than '-i of the waist measure straight out from dot 8, and place dot 9Measure J^ inch more than the length of coat on line A fr m hie B. an d
place dot 10Place the corner of square on dot
10 a nd
draft line
E "straight
out.
on une E 8 inches from dot 10 a nd draft line F to dot 8Measure the length of shoulder on line B from dot 3 a nd place dot H. Measure lj^ inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12.
Place letter
Place letter
Draft line
1
Measure 1 Measure inch less than y of the arm's eye measure straight in from do 13 a nd place dot 14Measure ^4 inch straight out from dot 13 a nd place dot 15. Place letter B on dot 15 a nd draft line S to meet line D 2 inches in from
1
V on dot 12 a nd draft line Q to dot 3R straight down from the end of line Q to line BJ inches on line R from line D. an d place dot 13.
line
R.
the
Place
the small
point
of the curve on dot

a nd
14 and
draft to
meet
line
S-
(Use
round curve. Place letter K on dot 14

draft line
extend
line
to dot
Place the corner of square on the junction of lines
12. and B, the edge on dot
9 and
Place letter
p lace-
letter
H A
straight from dot 9. on dot 9 an d draft to meet line B }i inch out from dot 7. on dot 15 a nd draft to meet line T 4 inches below line B
the
Measure the distance between dot 10 and the junction ot' lines D and K in back and then measure that distance down line T fr m dot 15 and place
dot 16. Place letter
M on
the end of line
and
draft to dot
16.
SACK COAT BACK.

Draft lines
A and B ' ncn from the edge and end of goods. Measure y> inch on line A "" om line B and place dot 2. l Measure /> inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from
'
line
A. and
place dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot
3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure the length of back measure on line A fr m 'i ne B and place dot 4. Measure one-fifth of the waist measure straight out from dot 4 and place
Measure the length of the coat line B and place dot 6.
(usually from 27 to
dot 5-
30 inches) on
line
A
8
from
Draft line
inches
straight out the distance
Place letter
}ff
on
line
inches
between dots 4 and 5. below dot 4 and draft
to
meet
line
below dot 2Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3, and place dot 9. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. Place the corner of the square on dot 3 tne edge on dot 10 and
draft line
the length of shoulder and place dot

l
H.
Measure / inch less than }( of the arm's eye measure straight down from 2 11 and place dot 12. Place the long arm of square on line A. the short arm on dot 12. and measof chest measure and place dot 13. ure lV inches less than Place the point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H. to dot 5. Place letter P on dot 13 and draft line Continue line K straight to the end of line D.
dot
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR COAT.

Chest 1.
tight.
Around
the chest, under the coat, take this measure easy not too
the waist, above the hips, easy not too tight.
to the waist line in front.
From on back of neck neck From Back Under Ann 5. From snug up under snug Hold Shoulder Around neck above Neck Arm's Eye Around arm over
Front J.
4.
joint joint in
Waist 2."Âround
to waist line.
the
arm
to waist line.
6.
tape line
against the neck to point
of shoulder.
7.
the
easy
the collar.
8.
the
the point of shoulder snug.
COAT SLEEVE.
First.
Second.
of From hand. of elbow From Around arm below Fourth. Around arm below elbow Around hand width
point
shoulder to point of elbow.

to
point
Third.
shoulder the width desired.

the width desired.
desired.
Fifth.
the
MEASURE FOR COAT.

Chest Waist.
Front
35
3
1
23
.
Back
20
10
-
Under Arm
Shoulder.
6 14
18
Neck Arm's Eye

Length
--
29
COAT SLEEVE.
A and B Yz inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure I inch on line A from line B and place dot 2Measure J4 inches more than \4 the hand measure on line and place dot 3Draft lines
I
from
"line
A^
Draft line
from dot 2
to dot 3-
Measure 2 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fro* line B> and place dot 4Measure 3 + inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch more than '4 the second measure around arm straight out trom dot 5 an d place dot Q. Place letter on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7Measure 5 ]4 inches on line A from dot 7 and place dot 8l
Draft line
F
J
straight out
Measure
dot 9.
of the
first
from dot 8measure around the arm on
line
from dot 8. and place

line
Measure I inch more than )/ the first measure around the arm on 2 from dot 8 and place dot 10Measure 3 inches on line from dot 7> and place dot \\. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12.
7 and
draft line
to dot
12.
Place the

1
Measure
Draft line
inches straight
9 and down from
draft to dot
12.
place dot 13.
dot
10 and
13.
Place letter
on dot 9 and
draft line
to dot
from dot 13 to dot 6.
Place letter
W on dot
6 and
draft line
to dot 3.
UNDER PART OF COAT SLEEVE.

Draft lines
A
2
and
'2 inch
from the edge and end of goods.

line
X
Measure Measure
place dot 3.
inch on line
inch
less
A
to
from
y
C
than
the
B> and place dot 2hand measure on line
from
line
A> and
Draft line
from dot 2
Measure yi inch more than

line
dot 3. the measure from elbow to wrist on line
fr
and place dot 4. Measure 3/g inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure \4 inch less than y? the second measure around the arm straight out from dot 5 and place dot Q. Place letter on dot 5 and draft line D t0 dot 2. Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7. Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. Measure 4 inches on line A fr m dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 2 j4 inches less than 14 the first measure around the arm straight ou:
from dot
8 an d
Place the
place dot 9. point of curve on dot
7 and
draft line
to dot
9.
Place letter Vf on dot on dot Place letter
9 and
to dot 6. to dot 3.
6 and
MEASURE FOR COAT SLEEVE.

Shoulder
to
Elbow
15
Elbow
to
Wrist
10
Around Arm Below Shoulder Around Arm Below Elbow
16^
1
*4
Around Hand
12
COAT COLLAR.
l A and B /\ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure I inches more than y^ of the neck measure on line B, and place dot 2. Measure 3 3^ inches on line B from line A and place dot 3.
Draft lines
from
line
Draft line
Measure Measure
2 inches
Draft line
from dot 2. from dot 2 and place dot 4. and draft line x inch down from dot 2 on line E from dot 3 to the end of line (J-
3 V? inches straight out
on
line
D
F
to dot
4.
Place letter
on
line
4 inches from dot 3. and
draft line
to dot 4-
VEST FRONT.
A id B inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure 2 L ch less than ]A of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B, and place dot 2Measure inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A. and place dot 3Measure inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place letter E on dot 4, and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3^ inch down line A from dot 2. and % inch straight out and place
Draft lines
'
4 to dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 3. the edge on line A. and measure down from dot 3 the length of front measure less the length of line (J in the back and place dot 6Place letter
dot 5. Draft from dot
W on dot 5,
inches
and
draft line
Measure
straight
down
from
to dot 6dot 6 and 3^ inch straight out and
place dot 7Place letter
on dot 7 and
draft to dot 6-
2 and measure straight out 2 inches more of chest measure and place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out 1 y, inchet more than j of waist measure and place dot 9the
Place
corner of square on dot
than
Place
10
letter
N
Q
on dot 9 and
draft line
from dot
to
\\/> inches
below
dot 9. Place letter
on dot 7 and
less
draft line
to the
end of
line
E-
Measure Measure
1
inch
than
the shoulder measure on line
from dot 3 and
place dot 10.
y, inches straight
down from
dot
10 and
place dot \\.
Place letter (J on dot 1 1 and draft line Q to dot 3Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 12Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13. Place letter on dot 13 and draft line S to dot 8-
Place letter
Measure
1
2 inches in
on dot 13 and continue line S to dot on line S from dot 8 and take
H.
a dart
inch and finish
inches in.
VEST BACK.
A and B /'i inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure inch on line A from line B. and place dot 2Measure of neck measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Measure y% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Draft from dot 4 to meet line A 5 inches below dot 2Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2. and place dot 8Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft to meet line A }4 the length of back up
Draft lines
y y
from dot 8-
Measure 2 inches more than B, and place dot 6-
of the arm's eye measure on
line
h"m
line
than
6 and measure straight out of the chest measure and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 8 and measure straight out than of waist measure and place dot 9-
inches
mo*e
inches
more
cl
Place letter
line
H
Q
'
Y? inches below dot 9. the edge of curve on dot ^ and draft

draft line
to dot
^ from
z
Place letter
letter Hon dot 8 and

less
to the
end of
line
E-
Measure Measure
inches
than the shoulder measure on line
fr
dot 3 and
place dot \Q.
Draft line
inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot from dot 3 to dot H. Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 7 and place dot 12Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 133
H.
Place the
point
of curve on dot ^ and

line
draft line
S
\\.
to dot
13-
(Use
the
round edge)
Place letter
on dot 13 and extend
to dot
NOTCHED COLLAR.
i" cn n om tne e<^8 e ano en<* ^ goodsA and B Measure 2 J 2 inches more than Y of the front measure on line A from line B, and place dot 2Measure 2 inches on line B from line A. and place dot 3Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line C t0 m eet line A 8 inches from dot 2Measure 3 inches up line A from dot 2 and 3 l/ inches straight out and place 2
Draft lines
'
dot 5Place letter
M
P
on dot 3 and
draft line
D
1
to dot 5-
Draft line
from dot
to dot 5-
Place the corner of square so that the
inch mark will rest on lines
and E.
and
draft lines
and G-
(See diagram).
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR VEST.
Shoulder 6.
Around Around From Back From Under Arm j. Hold

Chest 1.
the chest under the coat, just a smooth measure.

waist under the coat easy, not too tight.
Waist
2.
Front J.
4.
joint in
back of neck to waist line in front. neck to waist line. -Snug from under the arm to waist line. the tape line snug against the neck and measure to the
joint in
point of shoulder.
Neck
7.
-Around
the neck above the collar easy.
Arm' s .fy^. Around
the
arm over the point of shoulder snug.

MEASURE FOR VEST.
Chest Waist
Front
34 30
23
Back
20
. . .
Under Arm
Shoulder.
"
10 6
Neck Arm's Eye

.
14
18
TROUSERS.
FRONT.
end and edge of goods. A. and place dot 2Place letter P on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 7 inches below line BMeasure the outside leg measure on line A from line B. and place dot 3 Draft line C straight out from dot 3Draft lines
and
V2 inch from the
Measure
inches on line
from
line
Measure
3 incnes straight out
from dot 3 and place dot 44 and draft line D to meet
line
8 inches
below line BMeasure up

Draft line
dot 6Draft line
from dot 3 the length of inside leg measure and place dot 5from dot 5fr m dot 3 and place Measure the distance from knee to bottom, up line
line
E
p
straight out
straight out
from dot 6-
Measure y of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 7 Measure yi of the hip measure on line E from dot 5 and place dot 8Measure 2j^ inches on line E m from dot 8 and place dot 9Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10Draft line
Place letter
6 from dot ^ to dot 10D on dot 10 and continue
line
to dot 8-
Measure }4 the knee measure on line F fr m li ,le D and place dot H. Place letter S on dot 1 1 and draft line H to dot 8Measure }4 or the bottom on line C fr m dot 4 and place dot 12Continue line H from dot 1 1 to J^ inch inside of dot 12Place the corner of square on dot 12 and draft to meet line H 7 inches up. Place letter P on dot 12 and draft to dot 4-
BACK.
Draft lines A and B '2 ncn fr om the edge and end of goods. lX Measure inches more than y of the waist measure on line B from line A, and place dot 2Measure 3 H inches on line A from line B> and place dot 3Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3 Measure y$ of the waist measure on line C fr om dot 3> and place dot 4Measure l inch from dot 4 on line (J, and place dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge even with line C and draft
' 1
line
D down
4 inches.
Draft line
E
2 y
from dot
inch
less
to the
end of
line
D-
Measure
place dot 6-
than the outside leg measure on line
A A
fr
dot 3. and
Draft line
place dot 7-
P G
straight out
less
from dot 6.
the inside leg measure
Measure y^ inch
Draft line
than
up
line
from dot 6. and
straight out
from dot 7to
Measure y inch less than the measure from knee from dot Q and place dot 8Draft line
bottom on
line
up
Measure Measure
H straight out from dot 82^ inches on line G fr m dot

3 yt
inches
less
7> and place dot 9than 14 of hip measure on line G fr
dot 9. and
place dot 10-
Measure 4^2 inches on line H from dot 8 and place dot H. Measure 6 inches on line F from dot 6. and place dot 12Place letter S on dot 3 and draft line J to dot 9Place the corner of square on dot 12, the edge on dot H, and draft line extending 3 inches above dot H. Place letter S on dot 9 and draft to meet line J. Measure I inch in on line F from dot 12 and place dot 13-
Place letter
Measure
Draft line
Place
the
2 }4 inches in
on dot 13 and draft to meet line J 8 inches up. on line G from dot 10, and place dot 14from dot 2 to dot 14point of curve on dot 10 and draft to meet line K 4^ inches
up from dot 14-
Measure
place dot
2 inches
more than yi of knee measure on
line
from dot
1 1
and
15-
G on dot 10 and draft line L to dot 15measure on Measure 2 inch more than yi of the bottom 12 and place dot 16Place letter
line
from dot
Draft from dot
Measure
x y
15 to dot 16inch out from dot

on dot 17 and
16 on
draft to
line
Place letter
meet
line
and place dot 17L %/4 inches above dot 16-
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR TROUSERS.
Around of Around knee width Knee J. Around width Bottom Around below Outside Leg Measure 5. From From Leg Measure From knee bottom. Leg Measure
Waist I
the waist easy, not tight.
Hips 2.
the fullest part
hips rather snug.

desired.
the
the
4.
the ankle the
desired.
waist line the length desired.
Inside
6.
crotch the length desirea.
f.
to
MEASURE FOR TROUSERS.

Waist Hips
30
-
Knee
Bottom
Outside Leg
Inside
3S 18
17
41
31
1
Knee
to
Leg Bottom
SHIRT FRONT.
Use
Draft line
the fold of goods for line A! j inch from the end of goods.
y? and place dot 2-
Measure
mcn more
than y% of the neck measure on line
from
line B>
Measure yi inch more than V% of the neck measure on line B from line A? and place dot 3Place letter D on dot 2 an d draft line C to dot 3inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line Measure I B, and place dot 4Draft line H straight out, beginning 9 inches from dot 4Measure J 3 of the chest measure on line H fr m dot 4 and place dot 5Measure 1 ; inches down line A from line B. and place dot 6Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the short arm of square on line B. the edge on dot 7, and draft line E
to line
B-
Place letter
on on
line
D B
yi
'
inches from dot
6 and
draft line
F
to
to
meet
line
6 inches from dot 7Place letter
line
l{
ncn
fr
dot 3. and draft line
meet
line
2 yi inches from line B-
Measure -,i of the length of shirt on iine A from line B> and place dot 8Measure the length of shirt (usually from 34 to 36 inches) on line A fr m line B. and place dot 9Measure the length of shoulder on line B from the junction of lines B and Q, and place dot 10Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. on the junction of lines B and Q and draft line Q to dot H. Place letter Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 1 1 and yi, inch straight in and
place dot 12-
on dot 12 and draft line on dot 12 and continue

inch
less
to dot 5-
line
to dot
H.
4 and 5
straight oul
Measure
from dot
y{>
than
the distance
between dots
6 and
I
Measure
out from dot
place dot 13y^ inches more than the distance between dots
6 and 13
straigh
U
Z
an d place dot 14on dot 5 and draft line
to
line
dot 13to dot 14.
Place
the
corner of square on
inches
less
line
]A
straight out
3^
than
the distance
inch above dot 9> and Measure between dots 8 and 14 and place
dot 15. Place letter
X
H
Place letter
on dot 15 and on dot 15 and
draft to dot 14-
draft to dot 9-
"
BACK.
Use
the fold or goods for line
A-
Draft line
,'/2
inch from the end ot goods.
Measure the length of shirt on line A from line B and place dot 2Measure twice the length of shoulder on line B from line A> and place dot 3Measure yl inch straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter \J on dot 4 and draft line C to meet line B 3 inches from the fold
of goods.
Measure it inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line B, and place dot 5Measure z]/^ inches less than ]A of the chest measure straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure 2 3 of the length of the shirt on line A from line B. and place dot 7Measure inch more than the distance between dots 5 and 6 straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and J/! inch in and place dot 9Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 9- (Use the round
I
1
edge).
Place letter
H
T
line
'
Place the corner of square on line
E to dot 4inch above dot
2 and measure
straight
out 3 inches less than the distance between dots 7 and 8 and place dot 10Place letter on dot 10, the edge of curve on dot 8> and draft line p from dot 10 to the J inch mark on the curve.
Place letter
H
F
Place letter
on the end of line F and draft on dot 10 and draft to dot 2-
to dot 6.
YOKE.
Draft line
Use
l /2 'nch from the edge of goods. the fold of goods for line B-
Measure yi inch and place dot 2Draft line
less
than
y of the neck measure on

line
line
fr
2ne B
Measure the length of shoulder on
from dot 2, and place dot 3-
: }i
inches straight out from dot 3li
Measure 2 inches on line B from ne A and place dot 4Measure l' inch more than y of neck measure straight out from dot 2 and 2
place dot 5Place letter
(J
Place letter
on dot 4 and draft on dot 5 and draft
line line
D E
to dot 5-
to the
end of
line
(J-
For an open back add y$ inch

for dot 2-
to
the distance given in the third instruction
V/lVvvCYves Iskvcfcx
A:V\.*.<v
â<tvcL
Draft lines
SHIRT BAND.
A
'
1
and
B yi inch from the edge and end of goods. inches on line from line A. and place dot 2line
]^ inches on
1
Sleeve f d.GA.wg''
from dot 2, and place dot 3inch more than y^ the neck measure on line trom line B ana
B B
place dot 4-
Draft line Place Place
%. inches straight out from dot 4-
Place letter
H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2letter H on the end of line C and draft line E to dot 3letter A on line C % inch in from line E and draft to
E
meet
line
inches from line CPlace the corner of square on line
inch from dot

(J-
3 and
draft to dot
For open front add
i/^
inch from the end of line
(See dotted Sines).
SHIRT SLEEVE.
Use
the fold of goods for line A-
Draft line
B
3
Measure
place dot 2-
c h from the end of goods. ^2 inches less than the hand measure on line
fr
line
A and
Measure the length of sleeve on line A from line B. and place dot 3Measure inch more than the hand measure straight out from dot 3
1
ar>d
place dot 4-
Measuie zy% inches straight down from dot 4 ar>d place dot 5Place letter B on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3Draft line
from dot 5
to dot 2-
Allow
1/^
inch above line
f r facing.
(See dotted lines)
TO TAKE MEASURE FOR

Chest.
SHIRT.
Neck.
shirt,
Around Around
the chest, under the coat, take a smooth measure, not t5ght.
the bare neck easy.
Hold the tape line snug against the neck where the band joins the and measure to the point of shoulder. From the joint in neck the length desired. Length.
Shoulder.-
From Hand. Around

Sleeve
the point of shoulder the length desired.

the
hand
loose..
MEASURE FOR SHIRT.
Chest
35
14
Neck
Shoulder
Length
35
Hand
Sleeve 1-cngth.
.
;o
.
Jf.
Uknna
Pattern Co.
THE LATEST
IMPORTED AND ORIGINAL DESIGNS
IN
Crinoline
and
and
Paper
Patterns
Models
LESS
AT PRICES MUCH
THAN ELSEWHERE
Patterns
Cut from
r*t^
Any
Design
VIENNA PATTERN
5 West 14th
Street
CO.
NEW YORK
*\K<
MAY
TOILETTES
SINGLE COPIES.
25c.
LE PETIT
This
all
HAITRE....
ONLY $2.00 A YEAR
HOME TEACHER OF
MILLINERY
is
The
American
Fashion
Magazine
the
PRACTICAL, STRICTLY ORIGINAL

Costumes designed by AMERICA'S Leading Fashion Artists. Always used by Manufacturers to
only
publication
of
the
kind
printed.
Anyone
the art
to
at
bright,
and following the

as
instructions, can readily acquire
of
the
Millinery,
final
every
point,
from the
is
making of wire
fully
frames
finishing
of the hat or bonnet,
explained.
Show Coming
Styles.
This
book
we
is
cannot
recommend
too
highly.
Madame
Millinery
Melcher, the author,
the principal
teacher in our
Vienna
With
JUNIOR TOILETTES
World
Stock Sizes and Cut to Measure
Institute,
and
is
very competent.
Best Patterns in the
PRICE
* 3*
$1.00
5*
Toilettes Fashion Co.

26 East 22d St.
AGENTS WANTED
Toilettes Building
SEND ORDERS TO THE
New York
answered by mail
Vienna Hillinery Institute

32
AM information
will be cheerfully
EAST
J4th
STREET
I TTTT TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT TTTT tt T TTT TT T T TTT T T 1 TTTT T T TTTTT 5
Cbc Acme SelMimuctor

OF
Cbe marvel
of all
Dressmakers
]
Dressmaking
and...
...Ladies'
BY
tailoring
X
ClK most up-to-date
in the
fashion magazine
World.
SOPHIE KLUG
No
cutting
and
32 Pages
16 Colored Plates of Black and White
Illustrations
thirty -five
purely fashion.
all
or
drafting
system, but a
book containing on every

detail
chapters of information and minute instructions
of the
it.
art
For Sale by
Newsdealers.
fully described
and
illustrated.
No woman should
be without
Price, 15 Cents.
Price,
$i.oo.
Sent postpaid on receipt of price.
Subscriptions, $1.50 a year.
S.
Vienna Institute
KLUG
54
r If your dealer has not got
it,
send 15 cents for

rmHtwiiii
Specimen Copy
I
to
WEST
23d ST.,
Room
22
5W.
14th St.,
NY.
L54
ELITE STYLES CO. W. 23d ST., NEW
YORK.
New
York.
SPECIAL NOTICE
It
is
criminal offence punishable by fine and
imprisonment
tion
to
copy any part of our Instruc-
Book
or our curved Rule
any person
is
us-
ing our Curved Rule without our consent (except with our system of Cutting)
equally guilty.
We
will
not permit any infringement upon our
Patents and Copyrights, any one guilty will be
prosecuted
in the
United State Courts

will
to
the
fullest extent.
We
1*
give $50 reward to any

sufficient to convict.
one furnishing evidence
THE MAGIC TUCKER
Tucks without Creasing. Tucks

Tucks
in Clusters
without measuring
basting.
for clusters.
Tucks woolen goods without

ruffles
without measuring for
first
tuck.
plait.
Box
plaits silk
and other goods without leaving crease in center of

Fits
Tucks
in plaids.
any machine.
Is
by
far the best tucker in the market.
PRICE
$J.0O
VIENNA INSTITUTE,
W.
14th St.
Call Printing Co.
*7 West 13th N b w
St. York
LiBKHKY uf CONGRESS
013 964 937
IT
IS
AS SILENT AS THE TICK OF A WATCH
Cbe new.,.
Standard Rotary
STANDARD GRAND" ROTARY
j*
A NEW SYSTEM >

One-third
It
is
very light, very rapid and very fascinating.

this
more work can be accomstyle
plished
by
system than can possibly be
done on
and the
any of the old
machines.
The
STANDARD
makes both the
LOCK STITCH
CHAIN STITCH.
IT
Shuttle
is
IS
TWO
trial
MACHINES IN ONE
most
obstinate
that
Ten minutes
Our
convinces the
the
Rotary
the Correct Principle, and the

also
NEW DOMESTIC
makes
STANDARD the machine to buy. both the LOCK STITCH and the
STANDARD SHUTTLE
CHAIN STITCH.
Parts and Needles for
all
Machines.
A NEW TUCK-FOLDER
Especially designed for soft materials
that
will not
crease.
of
all
kinds
Tucking from one-sixteenth to one-half inch and of any width of space desired. Adapted to all of the leading Sewing Machines. Price $1.50.
CHAS.
W.
KATTELL,
General Agent
DOMESTIC SEWIflG PGHlflE
CO. and the
STANDARD SEWING PGJlIJlE
GO.
3 tttest
TELEPHONE
2534-18TB ST.
Fourteenth
Write
Street,
Hew York
for Catalogue.

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MAY.

TO TAKE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.

mark at the upper edge

of the tape line, in the center

inch to this measure.

See special instruction for applying this

UNDER ARM. Take

point of the shoulder.

Finish the balance as per general instructions.

point of shoulder to point of elbow

Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have

largest part of the

arm below the the same manner.

Around the hand

In drafting the front take the

TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.

See that the lady stands

natural and on both

she has the same clothing on that she intends

to wear the dress over,

especially inquire about the

you must have a perfeet

you have any doubt about the measure take

TO MEASURE FOR CHILDREN.

over again before the lady leaves.

not use a cord

taking the measure (except for children) as

make your basque

These measurements are Copyrighted and must be used only

with our system.

\b~9Ql LUirev 'J

For long shoulders

Vx inch longer than

the proportionate shoulder

measure and place dot

and place dot 12. Use

Under Arm Neck Ann's Eve

2 inches straight out

from dot ^ and place

up from new dot 1 and place dot X.

place dot 19.

For slender forms take

a small plait in the lining at the point

WAIST WITH ONE DART.

to the darts, omitting line

inches from dot

place dot 12straight

up from the center of the dart and place dot 14 on

mark on dot \\ and

the curve over

THE TAILOR-MADE DRESS.

TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM DOT WAIST MEASURE.

" 22 23 " 2 4 25 " 2627 " 28 z 9 " 3 " 32 3 Above

32 inches in same proportion. i-io of Waist Measure.

Draft line Draft line

very effective when the

bust is full with a small waist.

cut with good effect on a true bias of both

Measure the distance given line R and place dot 2.

Dot 2 Neck Size

Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye

SHIRT WAIST FRONT.

Measure the distance given B and place dot 2.

Artistic Ladies' Tailor System

Artistic Ladies' Tailor System