HISTORY OF FASHION

WHAT IS FASHION? Fashion is a lifestyle, which reflects a certain commonality of thought and vision that exist in various spheres of lifestyle, art, design and architecture etc. at a certain point of time. Fashion has a natural cycle from inception, popularization, to an inevitable decline giving way to another new trend.

WHAT IS CLOTHING? Refers to any material object associated with the human body. Different items of clothing and accessories e.g. blouse, trouser, jackets, belts, bags and shoes, etc are among the vocabulary of clothing.

EXPLAIN THE IMPORTANCE OF CLOTHING IN THE CONTEXT OF HISTORY? The evolution of clothing is an inevitable representation of the period and the socio-economic, political influences of prevalent society.

WHAT IS COSTUME? Costume is derived from word custom evolving from the environment and customs of society. It refers to clothing for a particular use, like for a ritual or performance, ethnic or historical within a specific context of time. Costumes are used interchangeably to portray the ever changing appearance of man in the context of history.

ORIGIN OF CLOTHES DEPENDS ON WHAT FACTORS? While the primary function of clothing is self-protection, proclamation of social status, wealth, age, occupation, historically the origins of clothing depend upon other several points also, like: 1) To protect against extreme Physical conditions, like climate, health, material etc. Thus primitive man use to cover their body with animal fur and later with tree bark. 2) Bible refers to the fig leaf used by Adam and Eve as a symbol of modesty.

3) Protection- Primitive men/women first covered their genitals to emphasize and protect them rather than to cover them. E.g. Venus of lespugue. 4) Anthropologist refers to clothing as taboo symbol, and desire for personal adornment to please self and others. 5) Psychologist refer that humans like to modify their appearance by covering body, varying hairstyles, and body adornments etc. This make us more acceptable to others, which bring commonality and bonding with the others, within the same social tribe. 6) Primitive man believed in sympathetic magic also thus till now few tribes live naked. They wear clothes on special occasions only.

WHAT IS THEORY OF FASHION HISTORIAN JAMES LAVERWHICH GOVERNS CLOTHING? Fashion historian James Laver propounded 3 principles of (1) seduction, (2) utility, and (3) hierarchy

WHAT ARE 4 IMPORTANT FACTORS OF THEORIES OF CLOTHING? Selection of clothes depends on various significance like social, religious beliefs, aesthetics etc Selection of clothes reflect individual status, alliance to a group and distinguish look from others. Several theories of clothing have been propounded based on the relative importance of these factors. PROTECTION Men need protection and shelter against extremes of temperature, rain, dust, thorns, wild animals, dehydration by sun and to protect against insects. E.g.: Eskimos wear closely fitted garments in several layers to trap and retain body warmth E.g.: pastoral people wear 3-4 bulky padded caftans like coats with sheepskin over jacket for protection against bitter central Asian winter. E.g.: the Tuareg of the Sahara & Bedou of Saudi Arabia wear long robes and loose trousers in light, cool, cotton for protection against dust and sand and for better air circulation Men needed protection for various activities E.g.: warfare, hunting Men in different parts of world, used locally available materials and local craft skills E.g.: leather garments were clean and made differently. Someplace by cleaning of the leather by scraping away excess animal fat and then softening it by rubbing in animal fat. But at some other parts of world mastication (chewing) is used for cleaning animal skin. E.g.: Also to make waterproof garments in north Japan & Siberian Gilayak, the Ainu tribe use fish skin to make waterproof garments. But in North West coast of Canada, natives use to wear short poncho-like rain capes made of shredded cedar barks and conical wide brimmed waterproof hats (to protect against heavy rainfall and also they dry easily).

RITUALISTIC Primitive man believed that certain costumes could endow special attributes and would protect him from evil. They believed in imbibing the strength and character of animals, by wearing certain parts of animals as accessories. They used animal claws, hooves, teeth etc as accessories E.g.: in Egypt, very important part of pharaohs regalia was to keep lions tail and claws. They were symbol of bravery, vigor, and shrewdness. Hunters use to adopt certain animals as their symbol. They use to feel that wearing hooves and horns will transmit enviable qualities of that particular animal in them. These symbolisms also use to be commonly used on aprons, blankets, totem pole etc... Women used cowry shells which resembled a womens reproductive organ, in clothes and their accessories. This symbol was use to remove the curse of sterility. Men use to relate costumes as identification with god, heroes etc. e.g.: ancient theater performers of Greco-roman, Indian and Oriental/Asian plays use to transform the individuals into different persona like god! Religious head or priests use to be recognized by specific religious costumes. These significant costumes had different symbolic meaning of respect & identification with god.

ADORNMENT (clothes) Beautification of self through clothes or body itself has been pre-occupation of human ancient times. Self vanity enhances our own physical and sexual attraction. Primitive and tribal societies use locally available natural materials, based on their colour, texture, shape, and material as diverse as flowers, seeds, sea shells, wood, precious stones, and various animal parts like tooth, fur, bone, feathers etc. Crafting the material like tanning of hides, weaving, dyeing, and printing of fabrics are used for cloth decorations. E.g.: Poulaine shoes were originated in France. They are example of transcend comfort and practicality over the desire of adornment. They were extended to exaggerated lengths that it had to be held in the hand while walking, or else to be tied back to the ankle with a ribbon. Later laws were passed restricting the lengths of the toe to 6 for commoners, 12 for gentlemen and 24 for royalty. E.g.: mens breaches were from 18th century England. They were suffocatingly tight making the act of sitting down an inconvenience, and thus were referred as dandy. Victorian corsets in 19th century were created to provide desirable tiny waist. But due to constant restriction of the rib cage of body, made the simple act of breathing very difficult. Womens skirt in 19th century expanded tremendously in width. Thus it required layers of petticoats, for support. This made mobility very cumbersome.

Crinoline was invented. They were lighter supporting frame made of graduated hoops of steel, stitched to an underskirt. This made the skirt so wide that doors and stairways had to be widened to enable the body to pass through.

ADORNMENT (of body) Concept of body adornment was done through different methods: 1) body modification - Chinese foot binding is most distinctive example of body modification. This ancient custom was supported by neo-Confucianism. They believed in tying the foot tightly in a way that with time, it would create a man made artificial heel. This was known as lotus feet. It was done by reshaping the soft skull of an infant either by compressing it between 2 wooden planks or by tightly binding it. This use to be the symbol of ultimate feminine beauty, eroticm, and social status of Chinese women. - Kichepo women in Sudan wear large circular lip plates. They consider themselves as undressed without their lip plate. They avoid seen in public without them. 2) Scarification Scarification is an indication of status and tribal identification also. It is done by elaborate incision done in a delicate pattern in certain parts of body. Then natural skin irritants are rubbed into the skin causing leaving scars and raised pattern-like marks on the body.

3) Tattooing - Tattooing is a process of insertion of on indelible dye in the punctured skin, which results in permanent change in body color of that inserted area. - Thracians used tattooing to indicate ranks in their tribe. - In some African societies, womens foreheads were tattooed. If they were captured by rivals, she can be sold back to her own tribe. - Maoris of New Zealand have elaborated facial tattoos as mark of distinction and esteem. - Japanese yakuza have a tradition of tattooing with symbolic meaning. - In todays western society, tattooing is common among sailors, biker groups etc. they represent personal adornment and affinity/ allegiance to a group.

4) Body painting Girls in Congolese tribe oil themselves all over and dust on red powdered calm wood. This indicates a more attractive look. Geisha girls as well as well as noble ladies of some ancient Chinese dynasty, use to wear very heavy face makeup with the powder of ground rice and white lead.

They also use to apply rose petal rouge on the cheeks and centre of the lower lip. This visually uses to stimulate a tiny-pursued mouth, which was considered to be very beautiful. In todays western society, is using various modern cosmetics, which has flourished due to inherent fascination of women for painting their faces.

IDENTIFICATION Clothes are most visible index of the status of a person identifying :

1) Class and caste social status Wealthy and influencial people advertise their position through their lifestyle of outer trapping like choices of clothes colour and fabric consumption. - Complete nudity is considered as a lowly condition, bereft of status, in some civilizations. Thus slaves were non-persons and could be nude. - In pre-Inca Peru, the Mochia striped their prisoners of clothing, rank and humanity. - In medieval era, use of fabrics like velvet, laces, and fur as well as colours like red, purple and gold were reserved exclusively for royalty and nobility. This was to maintain the status quo between higher rank and commoners. - Till 17th century, the lengths and elaborated styles of clothing and accessories were controlled in England. 2) Rank indication - Armed services uniform indicates rank, evokes obedience, encourages a sense of allegiance, loyalty, and identity within the ranks and thus, power. - Through no of buttons used, insignia and ribbons used, rank is indicated. - Sharman tribe chieftain wears special clothes, mask and carries accessories which single him out as a person, apparently endowed with supernatural power to cure evil eye. 3) Profession indication - Robes and wigs of a judge or in the uniform of policemen, personal or delegated authority of wearer is distinguished. 4) Marital status - Dress and ornaments indicates the social and marital status of women. - Yoruk Turkis nomad girl border her silk head cloth with coins to signal that she is ready for marriage. White scarf on head indicated being betrothed. Braided hair under black scarf indicated the wish of remarriage of a widow woman of same tribe. If she chooses to remain single, her hair remains loose under the scarf.