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Dynamometer Charts Click Here This is a page that explains what to expect with each engine modification. Lets start with you have already Un-Corker the bike. If not start here Bobs Un-Corking Page (send him an E mail telling him to finish it)

You need to feed that giant bucket of a cylinder more food if you want your Oinker to run wild. Remember, more air into the engine you need to flow more air out. With more air through the engine you need to add more fuel to keep the 15:1 (or close to it) fuel to air mixture. Re-Jet. Chart at the bottom and Eric has one also, Here: Erics jetting page. Over in Maine they have more methane in the air from the cows so, they run there bikes leaner then we do out on the west cost. Ok, you want more air so, you can add more fuel. Start with a good flowing air filter like a Uni or a No-Toil. I used the Uni for the longest time and really believe in it. I used Golden Spectro Filter oil. I washed my filter after every long ride and after every other day ride. I would wash it several times with dish soap and then wash it in regular gas. You can wash it seven times with dish soap till it looked clean.wash it in gas after that and the gas turns dirty blue with silt and oil. I have started using No- Toil and what a difference in clean up. Much easier and faster.no need for gas. I dont use a back fire screen.if you dump the bike and dont look to see if you flooded the air box with fuel you are looking for trouble. If you have a stock carburetor it will flood the air box with fuel very easily. So, look out. Next, drilling holes in the air filter side panel is a big improvement! Some that like to ride under water might not like this modification.

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There is screen behind the holes. Barnums and others sell kits that makes it look real professional. Now you have more air flowing into the engine, now its time to move it out. On the stock engine I went with the XRs Only Header to give me more power in the higher RPMs and keep some of that great low end torque and capped it off with a White Brothers R4 Muffler to save weight.

This was the ticket for me! I lost a little too much bottom end with the spark arrestor screen out and it was just too loud. This was a good compromise of power and weight savings. I like the White Brothers E series Muffler also, with twelve disks and no back plate. Its loud but, if you need to get quite quick, you throw the back plate back on and you are quieter. Eight disks (with the back plate) and youre legal! The Moriwaki is the best buy out there right now and it is the best made system, period. You will lose some bottom end (on a stock bike) but, its worth it. $399 from Big Valley Honda. It was $411 to my door. With the quite insert and jetted right you lose little bottom end and gain some at the top.

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Now thats a perfect weld! And the biggest diameter header you can get. This system will flow some exhaust! Moriwaki makes an awesome product. Ok, you have the air moving in and out but, you have to make the air to fuel mixture right! You can make the stock carburetor work and that dead spot when you wack the throttle will never go completely away. Jetting for these big air flow modifications is: 70s Pilot, b53e Needle (forth clip down), and a 185 main for sea level to about 4,500 (getting rich here). Go to this page to do the stock carburetor fix: Stock Carburetor page If you really want to fix the fuel system get a Edelbrock Pumper! If you are going for the over bore 680cc get the Edelbrock bored out to a 40mm X 42mm. Or a Mikuni TM40! What a difference. The pig will squeal right now when you twist its ear as fast as you can. For top performance and keeping a bullet proof bike I went with the 680cc over bore. They always say there is no replacement for displacementIn this case its true. The price is about the same as having the stock bore redone. The steel sleeve is about the same price and the Wisco piston is cheaper then a stock piston. If you wore out your bike or something has gone wrong it is worth the money to go 680. While it is apart you might as well throw in a few goodies like; Barnums Pro Mid cam (higher lift, longer duration then the HRC race cam), stainless steel valves with 3mm over sized intake valves, heavy duty valve springs and have the crank balanced. Well, you want to know is it worth the time and Money? Well here is a round up of what to expect when you do different modifications to your swine. I will round all the numbers up to the next Horsepower to make it easy. All the numbers will seem low because Honda threw out horsepower numbers for this bike that are from the crank. These numbers I show are Dyno (rear wheel). UnThe difference of Corked they say this bike puts out 55bhp that is brake horse power measured at the crank. Brake Horsepower and rear wheel Horsepower is real close to25%. It would go like this: Rear wheel Horsepower is 44hp on a dyno so, add 25% of 44hp to the 44hp and you get 55bhp
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that Honda shows. Its not perfect but, real, real close. Its funny its the same all the way up to race engines for cars. Car on the Dyno puts out 315rwhp and then the engine is checked giving 405bhp.

A stock bike is about 35hp. About 44hp Un-Corked. This chart shows an approximant. The stock bike has a lot of dynamometer charts out there so I made an average. (They are a lot lower on some dynos). These horsepower gains only tell part of the storyHow the power is delivered is what counts. How much torque you develop and when the toque comes on in the RPM range. Some of the bikes I have Dyno number from had Barnums Exhaust. It has a header that goes around both sides of the cylinder and comes to a collector under the carburetor. It gave a smoother Horse Power curve at the bottom of the RPM curve. The 680cc 11:1 compression piston, Edelbrock pumper carburetor bored out to 40mm X 42mm had a Barnums Pro mid cam (more lift & longer duration then the HRC cam) with 3mm oversized intake valve.

Horsepower to modification chart:

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Here in this next chart is shown the torque numbers in relation to RPM .
More flow moves the Power forward in the RPM curve. There is more torque everywhere but, less in the beginning compared to the amount you gain over all. Torque is the number you feel do the job.

Dynamometer Charts Click Here Horsepower & engine strength click here: Strong Engine & Horsepower If you would like to see who many cc it tacks to make a horsepower from different engines click here: ccs per horsepower

Jetting chart for stock carburetor Kehin 40mm

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Mikuni TM 40

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