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Lahore, Lahore Hai!

Shaikh Muhammad Ali

The main plot: The first time I went to Lahore was in 1978 when I was in 8th Grade and yes indeed I am old specie now which has been on planet earth for some years whom you will not be able to get rid of, easily and in the near future too. So now that you are stuck with me, I might as well tell you another story of my life and take you down memory lane

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lahore I was 14 then and to date refuse to grow beyond that age, at least mentally. Good old days; indeed. I fell in love with her.No No! With Lahore, I would hasten to add before your fantasies go on a roller coaster ride. For someone that age, coming from Karachi; Lahore was a different ball game altogether. I was brought on excursion, in a train; by my father and my younger of the two sisters also accompanied me. And we went around and celebrated Lahore. The roads were clean, minimal traffic, travel and food cheap and we had FUN. And boy, Lahorites did believe in two things then; one having fun and the other eating. I dont know about the first one now but eating. Oh my God! They are born to eat and eat they do.

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lahore I remember visiting the Lahore Fort, the Badshahi mosque, the tomb of Sir Allama Muhammad Iqbal, the Minar-e-Pakistan, the Shalimar Bagh (gardens), the mausoleum of Jahangir, the tomb of Asif Jah, the Lawrence garden, the Anarkali, the Lahore zoo, the Lahore museum, the Mall Road and the Canal; the Neher which runs through Lahore and is the life and blood of the city. I even remember taking a dip with my cousins in the canal and trust me it was not dirty then and buffaloes were barred to swim around freely back then. We would have Kukkar Cholay (Chicken with beans), a strange dish for us Karachiites at the Liberty roundabout, go have Mango Shake at a famous shop on the Mall and then would finally go to the Lawrence garden to watch beautiful girls play tennis wearing shorts. Oh Lahore of those days, how badly do I miss you! I was there maybe for a week during the first visit and this love affair grew over the years. I went there again with Mom in 1980 when my Khala (Mothers cousin) died, yet again in 1982 to get a visa for Saudi Arabia and then again in 1984 for excursion and in 1986 for the same reason. Lahore kept on calling me and I kept on visiting her like a young lover boy! Between 1988 to 1995; I was abroad and went moon lighting in other countries but somehow the first love remained as first love and I would always crave for another chance to go see my woman, Lahore. Laughter! Karachi and Lahore could not become husband and wife but the love affair continues to this day and I have come to terms with the fact that love at first sight can indeed waste a lot of time and money. Chuckles

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In 2002, I moved to Islamabad the beautiful and initially started working for the Ministry of Science and Technology (MoST) and was subsequently transferred to the Higher Education Commission (HEC), an organization which has given me Islamabad and the reason to stay here and thank you HEC for that We drove to Lahore again in mid Jan. 2009 to show the kids around. Adil (my older son) was 10 years old then and had already developed a liking for history and geography. I took my family around to the Lahore Fort, the Badshahi mosque, the Fortress stadium, tried going to Wagah border but failed miserably due to the big traffic jam at Mughalpura. We were there for three days and this is the best we could have done. On the way back from Lahore, I realized that Sheikhupura was nearby and since I had heard that Hiran Minar (Deer Minaret) was tucked away in a little corner there so I turned my cars steering and while taking directions from the cats, dogs and any souls on the street; I ended up at Sheikhupura and we saw the Hiran Minar which stood there in its grandeur; its aura; its rhapsody; awe inspired I stood there for minutes altogether; appreciating the beauty that was. Come July 2012; I was invited by a close to heart friend in Lahore i.e. Cdr. Azam Khan; a senior research fellow and a faculty member at the Navy War College to come speak on the topic of Public Speaking on 7th Sept. 2012. Although, I have never spoken on this particular subject but was provoked by the invitation to go study this subject and how could I have said no to such a wonderful friend who is also a mentor. Cdr. Azam Khan; if I may is Qutub-e-Lahore and his heart bleeds not just for Lahore but for the entire country.

(I am signing the visitors book @ the Pakistan Navy War College, Lahore)

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He is a prolific writer and his writings which have become controversially popular lately; catches us by the hair and rubs our face in the sand. Through his writings, he shows us the mirror and we stand ashamed at the petty level we have fallen to. The News International, DAWN and The Nation carries his short articles; off and on and he continues to hammer down the message of the famous saint Abul Hassan Ali Hajvery famously know as Data Ganj Baksh, the caretaker of Lahore! I had taken permission from HEC and was officially invited by the Pakistan Navy War College and allowed by HEC to conduct the workshop there, thus taking a day off on Friday 7th Sept. 2012, i.e. the day of the workshop and subsequently we left for Lahore (my first love) around 5:00 p.m. with my family via the M2 Motorway.

(A signboard on the M-2 Motorway) We stop at Chakri at 5:40 p.m. for tea. Say our Maghreb prayers close to Chakwal at 6:25 p.m. We reach Lillah at 7:20 p.m., Bhera at 7:28 p.m. and Salem at 7:40 precisely. We pass through Bhabra at 7:50 p.m. and touch Pindi Bhattian at 8:33 p.m. We pass through Hafizabad at 8:54 p.m. and stop at Sixty point near Sheikhupura at 9:10 p.m. and offer our Isha prayers.

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(Sabeen is making Tea somewhere near Sheikhupura) We finally reach Lahore at 9:30 p.m. and reach the rendezvous around 10:00 p.m. which was close to Walton airport. Our host, Commander Mahmood Ahmed received us and arranged for our executive suite and our dinner. He made us feel at home and we retired right after dinner quite tired. The next morning being the D-Day and a Friday; I was escorted around 8:00 a.m. to the Navy War College Auditorium where I addressed a group of around 85 Army, Navy and Air Force officers mostly from Pakistan and a few from other 11 brotherly countries.

(Receiving the Plaque from the Deputy Commandant of the War College)

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The topic of my workshop was Speaking, Reading and Writing which lasted for around 4.5 hours or so. It was a wonderful audience of extremely disciplined officers between the ranks of Major to Brigadiers.

(A closer view of the plaque) We then said our Juma prayers in the local mosque and then Commander Azam Khan arranged the Commandants car and we were driven to the Old Lahore.

(The family posing at the Lahore Fort)

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We first visited the Lahore Fort. Since I wanted my children to appreciate the history of the Fort thus I hired an official guide to take us around and learnt things about the fort which I also did not.

(At the starting point of the Lahore Fort tour) We spent some good 3+ hours touring around the fort.

(We are posing at the Diwan-e-Khaas) We visited the Diwan-e-Aam and the Diwan-e-Khaas. We also visited the Shish Mahal.

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(The history of the Shish Mahal) We spent some good time at the Shish Mahal and walked around the place enjoying the beauty of the Mahal (Palace) and capturing some more pictures for our memories.

(A beautiful view of the Minar-e-Pakistan from the Fort) We later had snacks and tea at the Fort garden right next to the Moti mosque and then rushed out.

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(We were here too) Sabeen and Ayesha were tired and went back to the car while I took the boys around in the Badshahi Mosque. We could barely catch the last Rakaat of Zuhr prayers. We then moved around in the mosque and came back and joined the rest of the family in the car that was waiting to rush us back.

(The kids enjoying the rides @ the amusement park around the Fortress stadium) I took the family to the Fortress stadium in the evening. The kids enjoyed the rides etc. while we had dinner at one of the fast food joints there and returned home by 11:00 p.m. and retired.

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(Ayesha posing with her Dolly) The next morning we first went to the Mall close to the Jail Road where the children first enjoyed games & rides in the amusement park, we then celebrated Ayeshas 7th Birthday and then rushed back to rest and get dressed for the Wagah trip.

(The children outside the mall, posing)

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(The command over the English language always brings a smile on your face)

(Ayeshas birthday was celebrated here)

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(And we go riding)

(Mamma enjoying the car race too)

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(Enjoying a light moment together)

(The birthday girl goes for a ride)

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(The birthday girl cutting her cake at the Executive suite) Later around 3 p.m., Commander Mahmoods family took ours to the Wagah area where we share our border with India. Although, I have been visiting Lahore since 1978 but could never make it to the Wagah border.

(We are @ the Wagah Border now) Going there with the Navy personnel was no less than travelling as royalty. Our seats were booked upfront while we enjoyed the charged up atmosphere which is created to entertain the crowds on both the sides of the fence.

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(The festive crowd in the stands) We were treated to a hot cup of tea and snacks after the session. Later, we also walked up to a point where we could actually come face to face with the people who we classify as our enemy number one.

(Our families sitting upfront) It was such a shame to look them in the eye and realizing that they were nothing but our extension and us; theirs. They almost speak the same language, have the same color of skin and wear the same clothes.

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(An enthusiast waving the National flag) Many of us were caught with tears in our eyes with our jaws dropping, our hearts pumping fast. It was such a dichotomy that there was a metal chain dividing us brothers and sisters.

(The Ranger boys in their full colors) They were Hindus, us Muslims both born and programmed to hate each other. No more no less. What a shame, some farce!

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(The Indian side of the border could be seen from here) I still dropped a tear again when I write this scribble while five months have passed. I felt so little, so ashamed. We waved at each other.

(Life looks greener on the other side of the fence) My wife did Namaste to a few elderly ladies and they greeted us with Assalamu-Alaikum.

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(With my host of the evening, Commander Mahmood) We felt so cheated by the politicians, the maulvis and the army which keeps us at bay, at daggers drawn. If the Berlin wall can fall then why cant we go to India freely and they visit us. I am out of words again!

(The kids posing with Sherdil from Mianwali)

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(And the show thus came to an end) We finally ended up visiting the Hyperstar Mart with Commander Mahmoods family where we had a quick shopping and browsing session.

(At the Hyperstar) Later in the evening, I was invited by my host i.e. Commander Azam Khan at one of his most favorite restaurant i.e. Go Go whereby we had a sumptuous meal and discussed the days events and our helplessness regarding which side of the border are we pegged.

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(With my mentor and host, Commander Azam Khan) We come to our make shift home again around 11:00 p.m., offered our Isha prayers and retire again while being thankful to God for his countless blessings. The next morning we got up early, had breakfast and after saying goodbye to our loving and caring hosts; leave for Islamabad while reaching here around 4-5 p.m.

(Country roads take me home) We bring back strong memories from this trip and since could not visit Anarkali Bazaar, Data Durbar, the Lahore museum and Cuckoos nest; thus this would give us another reason to go visit my first love again.

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(The kids taking a break at Chakri while we enjoyed a hot cup of tea) Post Script: Seduced by simply wandering around and bitten by the travel bug, I have been to many countries and that has helped me appreciate how much my own has to offer. I have enjoyed street food, which my close to fifty stomach does not easily accept anymore and the culinary delights in swanky eateries in Karachi, Lahore, Islamabad, Havana, London and New York. I have met people from different parts of the planet and have thoroughly cherished their company. An experience which I had not once but many times was when strangers insisted that I broke bread with them. I did sometimes. The food was not always to my liking but the heartwarming hospitality more than made up for it. In my passionate maturity, it is always a happy surprise to find that, if a woman is available; there is no shortage of men in Pakistan and lastly my ideal of beauty is embodied in the daughter of the liquor shops owner in old Lahore, with her Valkyrian breasts and epic buttocks. I need to get out of here, fast before all hell breaks lose

The Wandering Dervish

Shaikh Muhammed Ali

E-mail: dushkashaikh@gmail.com Cell: +00-92-321-5072996 th February, 2013, 20:59 (PST) 11

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