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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1


last updated: 11 May 2002
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Choosing a system Sealed systems Ported systems Passive Radiator systems 4th Order Bandpass systems 6th Order Bandpass systems Transmission Line systems Dipole Bass systems The final touches! Car Audio Subwoofers Subwoofer Integration DUMAX tests Search this site Audio DIY Projects Audio DIY Links Site statistics Discussion Forum my home page

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Designing and building your own subwoofer for your audio system can be a great way of improving its sound (and in the process probably saving yourself a bundle of money!). Building your own subwoofer is really not that difficult (especially if you get a relative or friend to do the woodworking for you!), and makes a great starting point for the beginning DIY speaker builder. Why should you build a subwoofer? Well, frankly most loudspeakers, particularly the smaller ones, are simply not capable of reproducing the lower bass frequencies (no matter what the specifications claim). If the loudspeakers are relieved from trying to play the lower bass frequencies, they will sound better at higher volume levels. Finally, a subwoofer can be located anywhere in your listening area, which provides you with much more flexibility in positioning your main loudspeakers for good sound. Five basic types of subwoofers systems are covered here: sealed, ported, bandpass, passive radiator and transmission line systems. The links to the left provide more information on these systems, along with other information that will help you to design and build a subwoofer that meets your needs. Are you trying to put together your own subwoofer design and you're looking for information that doesn't seem to be on this site? Please post your request on my Subwoofer Discussion Forum, where fellow DIYers like myself can offer advice and assistance. Xmax Note: Please note that all of the calculations included on this site assume that you are using the DUMAX definition of the T/S parameter Xmax. If you are using the coil-length - based definition, replace Xmax with Xmax*1.15 in the power response calculations. Also, the excursion calculations provide figures for peak excursion - many box design programs give rms excursion results. Brian Steele 11 May 2002

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/ [26-07-04 04:15:31 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Choosing a System

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Choosing a System


last updated: 8th February 1997

Subwoofer DIY v1.1 my home page

So, you're considering the possibility of building your own subwoofer enclosure, but you're not sure where to start? Perhaps the following notes can help... q Choosing a driver q Using an existing driver q How low should the subwoofer go? q How should a subwoofer be connected? q What type of subwoofer system should I use?

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sbc/ [26-07-04 04:15:33 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Choosing a Driver

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Choosing a Driver


last updated: 01 February 2004
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1 Using an existing driver How low should a subwoofer go? How should I connect my subwoofer? What type of subwoofer system should I use? my home page

When you're looking for the "perfect" driver for your DIY subwoofer system, be on the lookout for the following features: Low resonant frequency: Drivers with a lower resonant frequency ( Fs less than 40 Hz) will make better subwoofer drivers in most instances. Size Does Matter! The lower the frequency, the more air the driver's cone has to move. Consider this - for every octave that you go down in the audio spectrum, your speaker has to move 4 times as much to provide the same output level! As a consequence of this, your subwoofer is probably going to end up being the largest speaker in your living room. The following can be used as a rough guide to determine the minimum size required for your subwoofer, based on the size of the woofers in your main speakers, and typical excursion specifications for subwoofer drivers. Mains Type, Driver size 2-way 11.5 cm (4.5") 2-way 13.3 cm (5.25" MTM 11.5 cm (4.5") 2-way 16.5 cm (6.5") MTM 13.3 cm (5.25") 2-way 20.3 cm (8") 3-way 25.4 cm (10") 40 54 80 82 107 125 259 160 215 319 329 429 498 1038 Subwoofer Typical Vd Target Vd Minimum Size 20.3 cm (8") 25.4 cm (10") 25.4 cm (10") 25.4 cm (10") 30.5 cm (12") 30.5 cm (12") 45.7 cm (18")

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Some popular subwoofer drivers are: Name NHT 1259 Adire Audio Shiva Dayton Titanic Audio Concepts SV12 Size Enclosure Type Cost $150 $125 $139 $149

30.5 cm (12") Sealed 30.5 cm (12") Sealed, Vented 30.5 cm (12") Sealed 30.5 cm (12") Sealed

Sturdy construction: Flimsy cones and driver baskets are likely to produce distortion, resulting

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Choosing a Driver

in a less than perfect subwoofer design. To test the cone of a driver, push down one side of the cone near the surround. If the cone visibly distorts or doesn't move straight down into the basket, choose another driver. Impedance: If you're planning to build a passive subwoofer (i.e. one that's driven by your main amplifier), then its impedance has to be the same or greater than the amplifier's minimum impedance rating. If you plan to build a powered subwoofer, then impedance is less of a concern (most subwoofer amplifiers can easily handle 4 ohm impedances). Please note that there is NO requirement for the impedance of your subwoofer to match the impedance of your main speakers. Car Audio Drivers: Typically, car audio drivers will not do well as drivers for a home subwoofer system, as they are usually designed to produce a good response when a car's cabin gain is taken into consideration. However, there are a few for which the T/S parameters suggest that they can produce good results in the home. IOW, if you're planning to use a car audio driver in your design, treat it as a home audio driver and design a system based on its T/S parameters to get the best results.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Using an existing driver

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Using an existing driver


last updated: 8th February 1997

Subwoofer DIY v1.1 Choosing a driver How low should a subwoofer go? How should a subwoofer be connected? What type of subwoofer system should I use? my home page

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If you've already purchased a driver that you want to use in a subwoofer design, then chances are that the manufacturer has provided one or more enclosure designs for the driver. For the least amount of worries, it's usually safe to go with the manufacturer's recommendations. If a specification sheet was not included with the driver, try calling the manufacturer directly. If the manufacturer has not provided recommendations for suitable enclosures for the driver, then you'll need to use the Thiele/Small parameters for the driver in order to determine the optimum enclosure for it. Sometimes these parameters are provided along with the driver, but if you can, you should measure them yourself in order to get the best results with your subwoofer design. You can use the method given on the Measurements Page to measure the Thiele/Small parameters for your driver, then use these results to determine the best enclosure design that meets your needs. Another avenue of information is the rec.audio newsgroups, or the BASS and DIY Loudspeakers mailing list. Chances are that someone else has already built a subwoofer with a driver like yours. No need to reinvent the wheel!

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sbc/sbc2.htm [26-07-04 04:15:35 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - How low should a subwoofer go?

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 How low should a subwoofer go?
last updated: 29 April 2000
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1 Choosing a driver Using an existing driver How should I connect my subwoofer? What type of subwoofer system should I use? my home page

For all subwoofer designs, there are considerable tradeoffs in cutoff frequency, enclosure size and power handling. Generally, the lower the cutoff frequency, the larger the enclosure and the lower the power handling of the system. Consider the following when deciding on your subwoofer requirements: Size Limitations: Do you want something small and unobtrusive or is something the size of a small refrigerator Ok? Smaller subwoofers tend to have higher cutoff frequencies, but the SAF is higher as well. Subwoofer drivers typically require big boxes to perform at their best. You can use the following as a rough guide for determining how much living room space you'll be giving up to your subwoofer, using typical driver sizes: Box Size Size 20.3 cm (8") 25.4 cm (10") 30.5 cm (12") Internal 28 l - 50 l (1.0 - 1.8 cu.ft.) 50 l - 71 l (1.8 - 2.5 cu.ft.) 57 l - 113 l (2.0 - 4.0 cu.ft.) External 40 l - 67 l (1.4 - 2.4 cu.ft.) 67 l - 92 l (2.4 - 3.3 cu.ft.) 75 l - 142 l (2.7 - 5.0 cu.ft.)

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Design Goals: Is the subwoofer going to be used as part of a small three-piece system that will be used mostly for popular music, or is it going to be part of a large home theater system? For the former example, a subwoofer that reaches below 45 Hz should be good enough, while the latter may require a subwoofer that extends below 30 Hz. Room Gain: In most rooms, the room itself provides additional gain at frequencies below approximately 30 Hz. There's a slight risk of creating a boomy system if you create a design that on paper has a cutoff point much below 30 Hz. Car Audio: Most cars provide an additional gain of approximately 12dB/octave below 80 Hz or so. Note that sealed and 4th order bandpass systems have response characteristics that naturally complement the natural bass boost provided by a car's interior. When designing a sealed subwoofer for car audio use, aim for a cutoff point between 40 50 Hz to achieve the best results. For other types of systems, you will need to adjust the design parameters a bit to get the best results in-car.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sbc/sbc3.htm [26-07-04 04:15:36 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - How should I connect my subwoofer?

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 How should I connect my subwoofer?


last updated: 29 April 2000
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1 Choosing a driver Using an existing driver How low should a subwoofer go? What type of subwoofer system should I use? my home page

The following are the three usual methods of connecting subwoofers to your system. Method 1: passive filters, passive subwoofer A dual-voice-coil (DVC) driver is normally used in this method. Filters are used to block the low bass from the main speakers and higher frequencies from the subwoofer. All drivers are driven by the same amplifier, so there is no control over the output level of the subwoofer relative to the rest of the system. Also, it may be expensive to construct filters that work at the required low frequencies (<120 Hz). Note that a passive bandpass subwoofer usually requires filter as well, but one well outside of its passband. Method 2: passive filters, active subwoofer Here the subwoofer is driven by its own amplifier and you can adjust the output level of the subwoofer to match the rest of your system. As before, the passive filters may be expensive to construct. Method 3: active filters, active subwoofer Here, the passive filters are now replaced by active filters for even greater flexibility. This is the preferred method, as now you can easily fine-tune the system to achieve the best results. If your amplifier has pre-out/main-in jacks, then use a subwoofer amplifier with a line-level x-over with a high-pass line-level output. You can then connect your amplifier's pre-out jacks to the line-in jacks on the subwoofer amplifier, then connect the high-pass line-out jacks from the subwoofer amplifier into the mainin jacks on the amp. This will take care of the filtering requirement for your main speakers. Home Theater: Typically, your home theater receiver will provide all the active filtering that you will need (usually referred to as "bass management" in the receiver's manual). However, it is still a good idea to use a subwoofer amplifier that comes with its own line-level x-over, for the additional flexibility this provides.

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sbc/sbc4.htm [26-07-04 04:15:37 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - what type of subwoofer system should I use?

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 What type of subwoofer system should I use?
last updated: 29 April 2000
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1 Choosing a driver Using an existing driver How low should a subwoofer go? How should a subwoofer be connected? my home page

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The choice of which type of subwoofer system is best for you depends on your personal listening tastes and what you hope to achieve. I've listed a few examples below that may assist you in choosing the best system for your needs. Note that these are general examples, e.g. a high-end system does not necessarily have to use a sealed system design for the subwoofer. Design Goal: High-end audio applications; size no object; excellent transient response. Sub system: Sealed system, subwoofer driven by a dedicated amplifier. Design Goal: High SPL sound reinforcement, size no object. Sub system: Ported or 6th order bandpass system using 12" or 15" drivers. Design Goal: Add-on subwoofer for small system, low cost, good transient response, small box. Sub system: Passive 4th order bandpass system using 8" DVC driver. Design Goal: Add-on "bass unit" for secondary audio system (dormitory, multimedia). Sub system: Passive 6th order bandpass system using 5.25" or 6" drivers.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sbc/sbc5.htm [26-07-04 04:15:37 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1- Definitions

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Definitions


last updated: 26 April 2004
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Choosing a system Sealed systems Ported systems Passive Radiator Systems 4th Order Bandpass systems 6th Order Bandpass systems Transmission Line systems The final touches! Subwoofer Integration DUMAX tests Audio DIY Projects Audio DIY Links Download entire site Discussion Forum my home page

DRIVER COMPONENTS The diagram below shows the various components of a typical driver:

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DUAL-VOICE-COIL (DVC) DRIVER: a loudspeaker driver in which two separate voice coils are wound on the same former. Each coil can be connected to a separate channel on a stereo amplifier, or they can be wired in series or parallel and powered by one amplifier. A DVC driver can be used in place of two separate drivers when space is at a premium.

FILTER: an electronic network that allows certain frequencies to pass while blocking others. Active filters contain powered components such as operational amplifiers (op-amps) and are normally inserted before the main amplifier. Passive filters do not contain any powered components and are normally inserted between the amplifier and the loudspeaker. The filters normally used in loudspeaker design are as follows:
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Low Pass: passes lower frequencies, attenuates higher frequencies High Pass: passes higher frequencies, attenuates lower frequencies Band Pass: frequencies outside of a specific range are attenuated

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1- Definitions

ISOBARIC: (isobarik, compound loading) - a method of using two drivers working in tandem in order to achieve a smaller box size for a given design. Theoretically, the Vas of the complete system will be half that of a single driver, which results in a net box size that's also reduced by half. The sensitivity of the isobaric system will be the same as that of a single driver, but you've got to spring for that extra driver! "Clamshell" mounting, where the two drivers are mounted face to face and one driver is wired out of phase, seems to the most popular isobaric system used today, as it is the easiest to build.

SAF: Spouse Acceptance Factor. Basically, a rough measurement of what you can get away with in the house before your better half (who usually controls the finances as well) raises a fuss.

SUBWOOFER: A speaker designed to produce the lowest audio frequencies at an adequate volume. Most subwoofers, or "subs" as they're commonly called, are designed to operate from 80 Hz downwards, as the ear can usually pinpoint the source of any higher frequencies. The bass units of small three-piece systems are commonly referred to as subwoofers, but they often have limited output below 50 Hz or so.

T/S (THIELE/SMALL) PARAMETERS: terms used to describe the characteristics of a given driver. The most common T/S parameters encountered are: Fs Pe = resonance frequency of the driver. In free-air, the driver's impedance will peak at this frequency. = Thermal capacity of the driver, in Watts. If continuously driven above its rated Pe, the driver may prematurely burn out and fail. = Electrical Q of the driver at Fs. Qes is a measure of the driver's tendency to resonate at Fs, based on its electrical characteristics, e.g. magnet strength, magnetic circuit characteristics, etc.). The driver's overall resonance characteristics are usually dominated by Qes.

Qes

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1- Definitions

Qms

= Mechanical Q of the driver at Fs. Qms is a measure of the driver's tendency to resonate at Fs, based on its mechanical characteristics, e.g. surround compliance, the compliance of the spider, weight of the cone, etc. = Total Q of the driver at Fs. Qts is a measure of the driver's tendency to resonate at Fs, based on its overall characteristics. Qts can be calculated using the equation: Qts= Qms*Qes/(Qms+Qes))

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Re Sd

= DC resistance of the driver's voice coil. Re is less than the driver's rated impedance (normally 4 or 8 ohms). = Effective surface area of the driver. Roughly equal to the area of the cone plus 1/3rd of the surround.

Xmag = [DUMAX] Excursion limit due to the magnetic limitations of the driver's motor. Xmag is defined as the displacement at which the BL product has fallen to 70% of its value at the cone's rest position. Xmech = Maximum physical excursion capability of the driver. Exceeding Xmech normally results in damage to the driver. Xsus = [DUMAX] Excursion limit due to the driver's suspension. Xsus is defined as the point at which the compliance of the suspension has decreased to 25% of the value at the cone's rest position.

Xmax = Linear (one-way) travel of the cone. Xmax is used to determine the maximum linear SPL capability of the driver, and can be defined in a number of ways. The DUMAX definition is objectively the best one, and it is defined as the shorter of the Xmag and Xsus values, in each direction of cone travel. This definition is more useful than the older definition of Xmax, which was solely dependent on the length of the voice-coil vs. the length of the gap. Vas = Equivalent air compliance. The volume of air that has the same compliance ("springiness") as the driver's suspension. Because less air is more "springy" than more air, a large Vas represents a "loose" suspension = Peak displacement volume. Vd = Sd*Xmax

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Sealed Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page Sealed Systems


last updated: 07 March 2004
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

The simplest of all loudspeaker designs, the sealed enclosure system consists of a driver mounted on one side of a sealed box. The sealed enclosure system is characterised by excellent transient response, good low frequency power handling, smaller box size and lower sensitivity to misaligned parameters when compared to other alignments. However, sealed enclosure systems tend to suffer from higher cutoff points and lower sensitivity than the other low frequency systems. There are two types of sealed enclosure systems: the infinite baffle (IB) system and the air suspension (AS) system. The IB system normally uses a large enclosure where the compliance (or "springiness") of the air within the enclosure is greater than the compliance of the driver suspension. The AS system normally uses a small enclosure where the compliance of the air within the enclosure is less than the compliance of the driver's suspension by a factor of 3 or more. Sealed enclosure systems are probably the best starting point for the beginner DIYer because of the relative ease in achieving the desired frequency response. They are usually the subwoofer system of choice for audiophiles because of their excellent transient response (i.e. no boomy sound) characteristics when designed and built properly. MAC users: Charlie Wright has kindly provided me with a MAC version of a spreadsheet for calculating sealed systems for your use, called MACSEAL.HQX. To use this file, first download it, rename it to MACSEAL.SIT.HQX, then expand it. Sealed System projects on the internet
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Box Calculations Frequency Response Calculations Power Response Calculations Design Notes Spreadsheet my home page

Dave Platt's speaker project page Bill Eckle's NHT 1259 Projects Bill Eckle's Multimedia System Sean Collins NHT 1259 Subwoofers $125 Subwoofer Project (Greg Smith) Eric Wallins' Space Age Sub Rod Elliot's Active Subwoofer and Controller Karl's Sub Project Ken Cline's Subwoofer Module John's NHT 1259 Subwoofer Blog

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/ [26-07-04 04:15:42 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Sealed Systems: Box Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page Sealed Systems: Box Calculations


last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To determine the box size for a sealed enclosure system, you will need to know the following Theile/Small parameters for the driver: Vas = Equivalent air compliance (litres) Qts = total Q of the driver at Fs Fs = resonance frequency of the driver (Hz) Choose a final Qtc (total Q of system at resonant frequency) for your design. Recommended values for Qtc are from 0.6 to 1.0. Transient response degrades with higher Qtc values, but the power handling of the system increases. A Qtc of 0.7 will usually give pretty good results, but you can use a higher figure if the subwoofer has a low resonant frequency (<20 Hz) or if it's being designed for car use. Then, Qr Vr Vb Fb F3 = = = = = Qtc/Qts Qr^2-1 Vas/Vr Qr*Fs Fb*((1/Qtc^2-2+((1/Qtc^2-2)^2+4)^0.5)/2)^0.5

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Sealed Systems Frequency Response Calculations Power Response Calculations Design Notes SEALED.XLS my home page

If Qtc>(1/2)^.5 then dBpeak = 20*log(Qtc^2/(Qtc^2-0.25)^0.5) Else dBpeak = 0 where, Vb = net box volume (litres) Fb = box resonant frequency (Hz) F3 = -3dB frequency (Hz) dBpeak = maximum peak or dip in system response

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Sealed Systems: Frequency Response Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Sealed Systems: Frequency Response Calculations
last updated:06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To calculate the frequency response of a sealed enclosure system, you will need to know the following: Fb = resonance frequency of the system Qtc = Final Q of the system at resonance

then, Fr = (F/Fb)^2 dBmag = 10*LOG(Fr^2/((Fr-1)^2+Fr/Qtc^2))


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Sealed Systems Box Calculations Power Response Calculations Design Notes SEALED.XLS my home page

where, F = frequency (Hz) dBmag = SPL 1W/1M at frequency F

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/sealed2.htm [26-07-04 04:15:44 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Sealed Systems: Power Response Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Sealed Systems: Power Response Calculations
last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To calculate the power response of a sealed enclosure system, you will need to know the following: Vas = equivalent air compliance (litres) Qes = electrical Q of driver at resonance Fs = resonance frequency of driver (Hz) PEmax = maximum input power for driver (W) Fb = resonance frequency of the system (Hz) Qtc = final Q of the system at resonance Dia = effective diameter (cone + 1/3 surround) (cm) Xmax = peak linear displacement of cone (mm)

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Sealed Systems Box Calculations Frequency Response Calculations Design Notes SEALED.XLS my home page

then, Sd = pi*(Dia/100)^2/4 Vd = Sd*Xmax/1000 n0 = 9.64*10^(-10)*Fs^3*Vas/Qes SPL = 112 + 10*LOG(n0) K1 = (4*pi^3*Ro/c)*Fb^4*Vd^2 K2 = 112+10*LOG(K1) Amax = Qtc^2/(Qtc^2-0.25)^0.5 for Qtc >(1/2)^0.5, 1 otherwise Par = K1/Amax^2 Per = Par/n0 PeakSPL = SPL+10*LOG(PEmax) where, pi = 3.14159265359 c = speed of sound in air (345 m/s) Ro = density of air (1.18 kg/m^3) n0 = free-air efficiency SPL = driver output @1W/1M Par = maximum linear power output Per = electrical input required to produce Par PeakSPL = Thermally-limited SPL in passband At frequency F, Fr = (F/Fb)^2 dBmag = 10*LOG(Fr^2/((Fr-1)^2+Fr/Qtc^2)) SPLd = K2+40*log(F/Fb) Pmax = K1*((Fr-1)^2+Fr/Qtc^2)/n0

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Sealed Systems: Power Response Calculations

SPLt = dBmag+peakSPL where SPLd = displacement-limited SPL at F (dB) Pmax = power required to produce SPLd at F (W) SPLt = thermally-limited SPL at F (dB)

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Sealed Systems: Design Notes

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Sealed Systems: Design Notes


last updated:06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

Stuffing You can decrease the volume required for a particular sealed alignment by using a stuffing material such as fiberglass, wool, or polyfill in the cabinet. Reductions of up to 30% in volume requirements are possible. Make sure that you add the volume displaced by the driver and bracing to arrive at a final enclosure volume. If you plan to stuff the enclosure, use 0.75*Vb as the net volume for the enclosure. When you add stuffing to the enclosure, the resonance frequency should decrease. Continue adding stuffing until the resonance frequency stops decreasing.

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Sealed Systems Box Calculations Frequency Response Calculations Power Response Calculations SEALED.XLS my home page

General design notes for all systems - read!

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/sealed4.htm [26-07-04 04:15:46 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1: Box-Building FAQ

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 The Box-Building FAQ


last updated: 23 November 2002

Subwoofer DIY v1.1

This page should answer quite a few of the questions that seem to come up quite regularly, either on the discussion forum, or via e-mail! 1.0 TUNING QUESTIONS
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1.01 - Choosing the right type of enclosure 1.02 - Tuning tools 1.03 - Checking the resonance frequency 1.04 - What if the box is too small? 1.05 - What if the box is too large? 1.06 - Can I use two short ports to replace one long port of the same diameter? 1.07 - What if I'm using more than one driver?

2.0 ENCLOSURE-BUILDING QUESTIONS


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2.01 - Checking the volume of the enclosure 2.02 - Box-building material 2.03 - Where should I place the port(s)? 2.04 - Is the shape of the box important?

3.0 DRIVER QUESTIONS


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3.01 - Which driver is better, driver X or driver Y? 3.02 - Which will be louder, driver X or driver Y? 3.03 - Can I use a car audio driver in a home subwoofer?

1.0 - TUNING

1.01 - Choosing the right enclosure for a driver Make sure that the driver is suited for the enclosure that you have in mind! For example, just because software or equations predict that the driver may perform great in ported enclosure doesn't mean that it WILL perform well. Read the literature included with the driver (or talk to the manufacturer) to determine what's the best enclosure for the driver.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1: Box-Building FAQ

1.02 - Tuning Tools The list of basic tools that can be used for tuning your enclosure is as as follows:
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A digital multimeter (voltage, current, resistance, and if possible, frequency) An accurate basic frequency generator (a software-based frequency generator that works with your PC's sound card can be used for this purpose). Once such frequency generator is the NCH Tone Generator, available from the NCH site at www.nch.com.au . A high-power (>5 watts) low impedance resistor, ideally between 4 to 8 ohms.

1.03 - Tuning - checking the resonance frequency At the resonance frequency of the subwoofer system, the impedance will either peak at its highest level (sealed enlosures), or dip to its lowest level (ported and bandpass enclosures). 6th order bandpass enclosures will have two resonance frequencies, one for each volume. To determine the resonance frequency of the system, set the multimeter to current measurement, then hook it up in series with the subwoofer to your amplifier, then use the frequency generator to drive the subwoofer. At the resonance frequency, the meter will read the lowest result (sealed enclosure) or the highest result (ported and bandpass enclosures). In the case of the ported and bandpass enclosures, If the measured resonance frequency is not the same as the predicted resonance frequency, adjust the port lengths accordingly. In the case of the sealed enclosure, the resonance frequency can be adjusted by adding or removing stuffing material from the enclosure. A more accurate version of the above method involves using a resistor in series with the subwoofer system, and connecting the multimeter (set to voltage mode) across the resistor. In this case, the meter will measure the lowest voltage at the resonance frequency of a sealed system, and the highest voltage at the resonance frequencies of the ported and bandpass systems. 1.04 - What happens if the box is too small? If the box is too small will typically result in a boomy system that appears to have strong midbass and less low bass. Typically power-handling is improved though, unless the box is REALLY too small! You can compensate somewhat for a small box volume by adding stuffing to the box. The stuffing can make the box appear up to 40% larger to the driver. Note that sealed systems are generally a lot more tolerant of variation in box volume than are the other tuned-port systems such as the ported and bandpass systems.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1: Box-Building FAQ

1.05 - What happens if the box is too large? Typically the low frequency extension of the system improves a little, at the expense of powerhandling. The bass will also sound tighter and "drier", which might not suit your listening tastes. In the case of vented systems, a too-large box may introduce a response peak around the the resonance frequency of the system. 1.06 - Can I use two short ports to replace one long port of the same diameter? No! The resonance frequency (Fb) is proportional to the cross-sectional area of the port, and inversely proportional to the length. If you increase the effective crosssectional area by adding another port, the length will have to INCREASE as well, otherwise Fb will go up! 1.07 - What if I'm using more than one driver? Simple - just multiply the driver's Vas by the number of drivers you intend to use, then use this new value of Vas in the box calculations. For example, if your driver's Vas is 3 cu.ft., and you're using two of them, then use 3x2=6 cu.ft. in your calculations. The exception to this rule is if you're going to use an isobaric arrangement (where one driver is firing into another) - in that case you divide the Vas by the number of drivers you intend to use (normally two). 2.0 ENCLOSURE BUILDING 2.01 Box-building material Almost any material that has good stiffness and self-damping capability can be used for building a subwoofer box. Good quality 3/4 plywood or MDF are certainly suitable for building a sub enclosure, and both of these materials are usually easy to obtain. Large panels should be braced properly. Place braces asymmetrically across the inner surface of the panels. Don't forget to include the volume occupied by the bracing when determining the design's final volume! For in-car use, fiberglass can be used to build a strong but light subwoofer box, but note that adequate bracing should be used and the use of fiberglass to make any large flat panels should be avoided. 2.02 - Check that volume! Make sure that you add the volume displaced by the driver, ports and bracing to arrive at a final enclosure volume. This is especially important in the case of bandpass systems, where the volumes displaced by the ports and driver can have a significant effect on the enclosure volume. You can measure the volume of the driver by

1. wrapping it in plastic, 2. dunking it in a bucket full to the brim of water until the mounting flange is
level with the brim of the bucket 3. removing the driver from the bucket and 4. using a measuring cup to refill the bucket. The volume displaced by the ports can be calculated from the following equation:
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Vp = (Lv-Ex)*PI*(Dout/2)^2 where, Vp = Volume displaced by port Lv = port length Ex = enclosure thickness Dout = outside diameter of port

2.03 - Where should I place the port(s)? If your system calls for the use of ports, these can be placed on any side of the enclosure, once the intended location meets the following requirements:

1. The exit of the port should be at least one port diameter away from any
external surface.

2. The entrance of the port should be at least one port diameter away from any
internal surface, including the driver.

2.04 - Is the shape of the box important? Box dimension ratios are not important, once the system is only going to be used to produce low bass frequencies. Just make sure that you leave enough space between the driver's magnet and the rear panel - usually up to 3" of clearance is requred, to allow unrestricted operation of the pole piece's vent (if the pole piece is vented, of course).

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3.0 - DRIVERS

3.01 - Which is better, driver X or driver Y? A common question, and difficult to answer correctly without some real-world experience with the drivers in question. T/S parameter analysis can give a fairly good idea of each driver's capability, so probably the best approach would be use a software design tool (like the spreadsheets available on this site) to determine how each driver performs in a suitably designed enclosure, then choose the one that more closely meets your requirements. 3.02 - Which is louder, driver X or driver Y? The answer to this question is similar to the one given above. However, you should use the software design tool to model the peak linear output capability of each driver with, and this is important, the amount of power that you intend to feed the drivers. For example, many of the high-Xmax drivers on the market these days also have a somewhat lower sensitivity when compared to "normal" drivers, the result being that you have to drive them with considerably more power to achieve the same SPL levels as the latter drivers. 3.03 - Can I use a car audio driver in a home subwoofer? The answer to this question is "it depends". Typically, car audio drivers will not do well as drivers for a home subwoofer system, as they are usually designed to produce a good response when a car's cabin gain is taken into consideration. However, there are a few for which the T/S parameters suggest that they can produce good results in the home. If you are thinking of using a car audio driver in your design, simply treat it as a home audio driver and design a system based on its T/S parameters to get the best results.

CREDITS

"Vb" drawing courtesy Dave Rosgaard, drosgaard@cedarcomm.com

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Bill Eckle's NHT 1259 projects

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects Enclosures for the NHT 1259
last updated: 28 June 1999
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Audio DIY Projects Subwoofer DIY v1.1 my home page

Author: William Eckle

Introduction
I've had several (well 5) requests for details on the cabinets I built for the NHT 1259 driver. Lets start with the driver specs: Actual specs. (Driver #1) 3.56 20 Hz 85.8 dB/1W/1M 2.87 0.61 0.50 186 liters Actual specs. (Driver #2) 3.69 20.5 Hz 86.4 dB/1W/1M 2.87 0.66 0.54 217 liters

Factory Specs: Re Fs SPL Qms Qes Qts Vas 3.4 ohms 19 Hz 90 dB/1W/1M* 2.6 0.56 0.46 190 liters

* with room gain

Enclosures:
Built a box from 1" MDF that measures (OD), 26" h X 16" w X 22" d. or, (ID) 24" h X 14" w X 20" d. Installed two dividers in this box that resulted in three compartments each 24" X 14" X 6". These two dividers (braces) have 6" diameter holes in the center. The net interior volume of the box is 6048 in^3 or approx. 99 liters. not counting the 6" holes in the dividers or the volume of the rear of the 1259 driver. Each "compartment" is 2016 in.^3 net. Between the front and the first divider, between the two dividers, and between the second divider and the rear, are five (in each section) 6" oak 1 1/4" round "closet poles" spaced in a circular pattern around the 6" holes in the dividers, to brace the assembly front to rear. These 1" MDF boxes are assembled using "carpenter's yellow glue", counter sunk dry wall screws, and clamps. The material list for the 1" MDF: (one cabinet)

2 Top/bottom 22" X 16" 2 Sides 24" X 22" 4 Backs/fronts/dividers 24" X 14" 15 Oak "closet poles" 6" X 1 1/4"

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Construction:
Now we get ready for the cool edges (since I can't/won't miter). Install over the above assembled cabinet 1/2" MDF on the two sides and the back and front, to the vertical edges, of the above cabinet, _BUT NOT_ overlaping each other, and 1/2" from the top edge, hanging over the bottom the amount you would like the bottom recessed for the later installation of casters (this puppy will weigh more than 120 lbs. so you or the WAF _will_ want casters). In other words, you will end up with a 1/2" X 1/2" VEE shaped groove on all edges (except the bottom). The material list for 1/2" MDF (for one cabinet), with 1" overhang on bottom (adjust the overhang on the bottom for the casters you use and the height you want the cabinet from the floor/carpet):

2 Front/backs 2 Sides

26 1/2" X 16" 26 1/2" X 22"

These 1/2" MDF panels are glued, countersunk screwed, clamped to the box, as instructed above. Is the box getting heavy yet ?

Finishing:
Now cut from 1/4" furniture grade plywood, taking care to have the grain go the direction and match adjacent panels as you desire. Cut these panels from the un-finished side and mark on this side which panel goes where ie. left side, top etc. Also cut them oversize, at least a
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1/4" on all sides. Now glue these panels to the top, sides, and back/front. I used to use contact cement here, but found "yellow glue" works better, although you can remove these panels with lacquer thinner at a later time if you use contact cement. Once these panels are set, use a router to trim all the panels to the 1/2" X 1/2" Vee grove you left on all the edges. With the addition of these 1/4" panels, you now have a Vee groove of 3/4" X 3/4" on all edges (except the bottom). Obtain needed lengths of "quarter round", 3/4" X 3/4" at your lumber/woodworking store in the wood to match your choice of furniture grade plywood and glue the mitered pieces all around the top in the 3/4" X 3/4" VEE groove, now glue the pieces on the four corners of the sides.

Preparing for driver installation:


Using a router with a circle attachment, cut a "shelf" the diameter of the driver, the depth you want the driver to set in the front panel. keep reducing the diameter of the cut till you then have the desired width of the mounting flange in the box. Then cut the cut the hole all the way through by gradually increasing the depth of the cut. Temporarily set the driver in the front panel cutout and mark the eight mounting holes. Drill the mounting holes the size appropriate for the bolts you plan to use. I used round Allen head 1/4-20 cap screws threaded into T-nuts on the inside of the cabinet. I also made a ring of soft wood (pine or scrap 1/2" or thicker plywood) and glued this ring on the _inside_ of the cabinet to hold the T-nuts, as the points on the T-nuts tend to bend and not grip in MDF. Sand and finish the cabinets to your taste. I sand the cabinets with 280 paper, then 400 paper, then two coats of sealer, sand between coats with 400 paper, than apply two coats of satin polyurthane. This results in a very professional looking cabinet in _real_ wood, that with the rounded edges, appears smaller than 28 1/4" high, 17 1/2" wide and 23 1/2" deep in final outside dimensions. I use 1/4" red oak plywood @ $19 per 4' X 8' sheet, red oak quarter round 3/4" X 3/4" moldings @ .50 per ft. 1" MDF @ $30 per 4' X 8' sheet, 1/2" MDF @ $15 per 4' X 8' sheet. and miscel. screws, input terminals, driver mounting bolts & nuts and casters. Note: Many builders like to veneer the MDF, but I prefer 1/4" furniture grade plywood as it covers many mistakes in the MDF and the counter- sunk screw holes, allows sanding etc. The edges on the 1" MDF do not have to perfect, where as with veneer _all_ will show through, and locally, at least a sheet of 1/4" oak plywood is one third the cost as the same amount of oak veneer ???

Tools:
The only tools I have are: A router w/circle attachment, reversible elec. drill/screwdriver,

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assortment of bits and countersink bits, router bits (including a 3 1/2" long 1/4" bit to reach the thick panels), a hand miter box & saw, a elec. circular saw and an elec. sander. Am lucky to have a neighbor who cuts all my MDF to my order on his professional table saw at his employment (and since I _gave_ him the drivers and Xovers for his home made Altec A7s, he won't let me pay for any MDF I need). I also have several clamps borrowed (long term) from my neighbor. As you can see, am using minimum equipment, and could probably use less for a one time project, I usually build 3 to 5 pairs of loudspeaker systems a year.

Results:
Measurements in a 100 liter sealed box, with no stuffing.

Fc Qtc

Unit #1 32.3 Hz 0.78

Unit #2 32.1 Hz .89

Measurements in the same box w/a "curtain" of 12" X 10" X 4" fiberglass covering the 6" hole in the divider in back of the driver.

Fc Qtc

34.0 Hz 0.62

34.0 Hz 0.75

This is where I stopped, although can play with more/less stuffing in the future. Note: the only access to the interior of the cabinet is by removing the driver as all other joints are screwed and glued. I put a bead of clear RTV between the outer edge of the driver and the cabinet, which can be broken by a razor blade if I need access to the inside of the box. To build one cabinet as above, requires a 4' X 8' sheet of 1" MDF, a 4' X 8' sheet of 1/2" MDF, and a 4' X 8' sheet of 1/4" finish plywood. You will have plenty of wood left over to build a pair of medium size satellites plus a pair of puter speaker cabinets. Grill cloth, terminals etc. are up to the constructor, although I never use grills as I'm not ashamed of seeing the driver cones (especially the pretty yellow Kelvars). Form follows function or is it the other way ? Hope _all_ this helps and answers questions that have been asked re. the NHT 1259 cabinets. Whew, am NOT a typist. Of course this is my personal preference as to constructing this unit, your milage may very, so feel free to make changes (and share them). You may want to make a smaller and lighter cabinet, but I'm from the old school, instead of engineering for the minimum material usage, I prefer to "add more meat", when it is easy and reasonable. William Eckle

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - DIY Audio Projects

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 DIY Audio Projects


last updated: 13 April 2004
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1 my home page

My Projects
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A spare-tire well fiberglass subwoofer for my car "El Uglito" - a small 4th order bandpass system My center channel project A subwoofer based on Madisound's INF10 driver Car subwoofer with cabin-gain compensation Retrofitting a subwoofer INF10 4th order bandpass subwoofer (ongoing) INF10 dipole bass woofer

Other DIY audio projects hosted on this site


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A multimedia system (Bill Eckle) The "Marriage Made in Heaven" (Bill Eckle) Multimedia Amplifier with x-over (Bill Eckle) An Audio/Video Cabinet (Bill Eckle) Measuring a Car's Transfer Function (Jason Cuadra) Car Tweeter Placement Exercise (Jason Cuadra) Alternator Whine Exercise (Jason Cuadra)

DIY speaker projects on the Internet


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Stryke's Vifa MTM project (John E. Janowitz) ES Twin ISO 8 (James Lehman) Mattias Sandgren's DIY Audio Pages (Mattias Sandgren) An Active Dipole Sub (Geet Maddens) Ron's 3-way speaker project (Ron Hanson) 3 Guys' Speaker Project (Arjen, Gary, Monte) www.kaiaudio.com (Kai Stark)

Miscellaneous DIY projects


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Radio-Shack SPL Meter Mods (Eric Wallin) DIY Speaker Testing Microphone Preamp (Eric Wallin) Active X-over kit for DIY Speaker Builders (John Pomann)

Car Audio projects

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How to build a fiberglass Sub-Box (db_racer)

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects A fiberglass spare tire well car subwoofer
last updated: 16 December 2001
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Audio DIY Projects Subwoofer DIY v1.1 my home page

Faffing around with the JBL 1200GTi


The 1200GTi is one of JBL's better 12" car subs, though there are some caveats. For one, the T/S parameters provided wth my 1200GTi subs were not entirely accurate. JBL quoted the Qts figure as 0.47, and it actually seems to be around 0.42. This has a significant effect on enclosure calculations, and serves as a good example of why it's so important to have the T/S parameters measured for a particular sub before you commit to a particular design. The 1200GTi has an Xmax of 0.31" and an RMS power rating of 600W(!). These are views of the JBL 1200GTi from the front and the rear. You'd notice that there's a very close similarity between the 1200GTi and JBL's professional audio subs. JBL 1200GTi - front view JBL 1200GTi - rear view

The MEASURED T/S parameters for my two 1200GTi subs averaged as follows: Vas = 2.4 cu.ft. Fs = 30 Hz Qms = 5.77 Qes = 0.45 Qts = 0.42

Out with the spare tire!


One of the problems that I've had with my car subs in the past is that they're always in the way when it's time to change a tire. Two 2 cu.ft. enclosures holding JBL 1200GTi subs are pretty heavy, and I continually had visions of getting a flattire late at night somewhere obscure and having to shuffle the boxes to and from the trunk in order to get access to the spare tire. Then the brainwave hit - why not use the spare tire well as the enclosure and have the spare tire placed on top, or to the side of the speakers? This will allow me to keep my subs, and still have easy access to my spare tire in case of an emergency. The idea seemed reasonable enough - and has been done before.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects

Fiberglass?
In order to maximize the use of the volume of the well, I opted to use a fiberglass enclosure instead of building a box that fit within the well. A wooden enclosure that snugly fit in the well would be a bit difficult to build because of all the curves, and precious volume would be lost in the process. Problem was, I didn't have any experience with fiberglass... So, I searched around the 'net to see if anyone else had tried this and published their techniques. I came across two pages where the author mentioned the use of tinfoil to isolate the resin and fiberglass from the well while creating the enclosure, so I tried that. Chaps, this is NOT such a good idea, as the resulting structure is certainly not very pretty - the creases in the tinfoil transferred themselves to the resin, and some sections of tinfoil got permanently embedded, resulting in a very ugly-looking enclosure. I posed a question concerning the use of fiberglass to the DIY Loudspeakers and Related Topics List (something I should have done PRIOR to building the enclosure!), and the chaps on the list came back with the following alternatives to tinfoil: Mold release agents (Dry lubricant release agent #ms-122/22) (Frekote 1711 mold release) PVA (PolyVinyl Acetate) release agent Carnuaba Wax + PVA release agent WD-40! Mylar (oiled with WD-40, or PAM) Saran Wrap (oiled with WD-40, or PAM) If I was doing this again, I'd go with the PVA release agent - it comes in spray form, and would be much easier to apply than tinfoil, Saran Wrap or other films, and would probably give better results. As the fit would be close, protrusions in the well should be smoothed out first with modelling clay before the PVA and resin are applied, otherwise you might not be able to remove the enclosure when it's finished! I used fiberglass mat instead of the weave stuff - because it came in larger sizes! 24 sq. ft. was about enough (I haven't reinforced the enclosure yet). Turns out that the mat was a good choice - the woven stuff is less malleable and doesn't build up a good thickness as quickly as the fiberglass mat. Normally, you'd apply the fiberglass layers one after another in one sitting. However, I chose instead to let the first layer dry, then I removed the enclosure from the trunk to my work room (a.k.a. my porch) for further work, as doing this kind of work in the trunk of a small car was not easy on my back or knees! I built up one more layer of fiberglass within the enclosure, but stopped there, as I was running out of fiberglass mat! The resulting enclosure seems sturdy enough, and the steel walls of the well should add extra reinforcement.
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Sanding the enclosure is a bit of a nightmare - finishing sanders don't work properly on the concave enclosure, and hand-sanding is too slow. A rotary sander worked in some places, but in many others it came down to a couple of sheets of waterproof sandpapaer and good old elbow grease.

Caveats
Fiberglass and resin are pretty easy to work with, but you've got to take some precautions.
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Work in a well-ventilated area, unless you're one of those glue-sniffing types. The solvent used in the resin is pretty powerful stuff. Wear gloves - resin gets everywhere, no matter how you try to avoid this. I used two layers of disposable plastic gloves for each application of resin. Wet down any areas that you're going to sand, to prevent dust from going all over the place. Don't do this in your living room - fibers from the fiberglass mat get everywhere, and are VERY uncomfortable.

**** UPDATES **** UPDATE: 13th May 1996


Well, the enclosure's finished... mostly. The performance is um, average, and not as good as I think it can be. The drawbacks to getting great response from the enclosure seem to be:
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Enclosure Vibration Car Panel Vibration 1. Enclosure Vibration The fiberglass portion of the enclosure is light and pretty thin (compared to 3/4 ply). It is therefore subject to a LOT of vibration, if not adequately braced. And brace it I did, using fiberglass "vanes" at various places within the enclosure. Unfortunately it STILL vibrates, so more bracing is called for. The plywood baffle is also subject to vibration, even though it is braced with a small 4" plywood "shelf" attached perpendicularly inside. I will have to do some more work on this as well. 2. Car Panel Vibration This seems to be the greater of the two problems. The fiberglass enclosure is in very close proximity to the bottom of the vehicle, and the

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result seems to be even more rattles and bangs than usual when I turn the bass up! Dynamat may help here, but it's a but late to apply it now. I'm going to try a later of carpeting (the stuff you use to cover speaker boxes) to see if that helps. I'm also going to see if there's a way to stop the side panels from vibrating as well, because it's VERY annoying!

UPDATE: 11th August 1996


Most of the problems described above have been dealt with. The enclosure vibration was reduced when I applied more bracing to the inside of the enclosure. The decrease in internal volume doesn't seem to have adversely affected its response - in fact it sounds MUCH better, probably due to the better bracing. The car panel vibration was reduced by using packing foam (the soft type used to ship electronic components) between the enclosure and the panels, and also inside other panels within the trunk. I still get some rattles and bangs when I turn up, but considerably less than before!

UPDATE: 7th December 1996


I've finally cured the vibration problem! The solution was actually quite simple three wooden braces between the wooden baffle and the fiberglass mould. I used 1" square wood scraps that I had lying around, and whoa, what a difference! Almost all of the vibration is gone now - the baffle simply does not vibrate any more. Neat thing is - the enclosure (without the speakers) is still nice and light, so it's easy to take out of the car, if I REALLY need a little extra trunk space. I'd suggest that, if you're planning to do your own fiberglass enclosure, also plan to use braces running from the front to the rear of the enclosure. It really makes a difference!

UPDATE: 5th January 1998


Well, I've finally got some pictures for you! The pictures were taken just before Christmas 1997, so there's a bit of "wear and tear"visible in the pictures. Dec is rainy season in Grenada, hence the dirty vehicle (doesn't make any sense washing it, when it rains at least once a day...:-)). Note: click on the pictures to see the full size version. The completed enclosure. The drivers are protected by metal grilles that are covered with matching carpet. I think that there was a slight change in the bass output (Qts should decrease), but I haven't confirmed it by measurement yet. The grilles are held in place by removeable clamps. This is a diagonal view of the trunk, showing the present placement of the spare tire, which is held in place by a wooden bracket that fits partly into the ports (movement is therefore restricted). The bracket is unfinished, and I may replace it with a better-designed version. Another diagonal view of the trunk, with the spare tire and speaker grilles removed. The drivers are flush-mounted, and a carpet can be thrown over them for that "stealth" look.

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Front view, with grilles and spare tire in place. I'm thinking of making a shroud for the tire... Diagonal view of trunk, with right side panel removed, showing the amplifier (MTX 4160 bridged into two channels) and the cooling fan (salvaged from an old computer power supply). Front view, with tire and grilles removed.

Diagonal view, with spare tire removed.

Interested in fiberglass projects? Try the following URL:


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How to Construct Fiberglass Trunk Panels [Steve Cornell] Spare Wheel Well Build

Brian Steele brian@caribsurf.com

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ElUglito

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects "El Uglito" - a 4th order bandpass system
last updated: 1st February 1999

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Audio DIY Projects Subwoofer DIY v1.1 my home page

The system
This project is a 4th order bandpass isobaric system based on two Pyramid W61 6.5" drivers. "Isobaric" basically means here that the drivers are mounted face to face with the connections to one driver reversed, the idea being to reduce by half the volumes required for the sealed and ported sections of the system.

The driver
Why Pyramid W61 drivers? Well, basically I had two of them lying around the house, doing nothing. I'd pulled them from my car a few months ago, where they were doing a decent job of rear fill when free-air mounted on the rear package tray. The W61, like most car audio drivers, is pretty solidly built, but the cone is made of paper and is basically too soft to do any serious thumping. Pyramid didn't provide any Xmax specifications for the driver, but the cone does have about 0.5" of excursion before the suspension brings it to a dead halt. For my calculations, I guestimated an Xmax figure of 0.1 in. Pyramid DID provide figures for Vas (19 litres), Qts (0.47) and Fs (64.5 Hz), but a quick check of the drivers showed that the published specs were a bit off. Average Fs for the two drivers checked in at 52Hz, quite a bit below the published spec, which is nice as it means that I should get a bit more bass out of it. The average Qts for the pair of drivers checked in at 0.50, and the average Vas at 'round 28 litres or so. No probs - the lower Fs and higher Qts suggested to me that the W61 could give decent results in a sealed or 4th order bandpass system. I'd expected the measured specs to be different anyway, as I'd quite recently replaced the original dust covers for the drivers with some new ones that I'd purchased locally.

Choosing an alignment
Now the bad news. The specs for a single W61 driver indicated that, for a sealed system with a Qtc of 0.71, the net box volume would have to be about 28 litres (almost 1 cu.ft.), pretty big for a 6.5 incher. The F3 would also be around 73Hz, which isn't so hot either. An isobaric system using two drivers would reduce the net volume to 15 litres, but the cutoff frequency would still be a bit too high for my tastes.

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ElUglito

In steps the 4th order bandpass system! My calculations showed that a single W61 used in a bandpass system could give a pretty decent response, but the resulting box would be pretty big. My intuition also told me that the power handling wouldn't be so hot because of the driver's limited Xmax (rule #1 - bigger is NOT always better!). An example of a 4th order bandpass alignment using one W61 driver would be as follows:

Vf = Vr = Fb = Fl = Fh = Gain

13.9 litres 27.2 litres 74.3Hz 45.7Hz 120.7Hz = 0.00dB

The 4th order bandpass alignment above has a pretty good cutoff point for a 6.5 incher, but the Xmax for this driver is pretty low, so I may not get decent output at that frequency. The box size is also pretty big, at about 41 litres (1.4 cu.ft.) total. Here's where the flexibility of the 4th order bandpass design steps in! Say we use an isobaric system to decrease the volume requirements, then reducing the size of the rear volume even further by settling for a higher cutoff frequency? With this in mind, I fudged around with the calculations again and came up with the following alignment:

Vf = Vr = Fb = Fl = Fh = Gain

7.0 litres 9.9 litres 81.2Hz 52.0Hz 126.9Hz = 1.56dB

The cutoff frequency of 52 Hz indicates that this 4th order bandpass system can't be described as a proper subwoofer, but that's OK because the limited Xmax of the W61 indicates that it shouldn't be used in a very low frequency application anyway. However, the cutoff frequencies do indicate that it'll make a good woofer element for a small three-piece system, so I decided to go ahead and give it a try to see what it sounded like.

Designing the box


Designing the box for a 4th order bandpass isn't difficult, once you take certain precautions. First of all, you MUST account for the volume occupied by the drivers, port, bracing and any other items that are going to be enclosed in the box! This becomes even more critical when designing small enclosures, as the volume displaced by the drivers and the port could have a significant effect on the final dimensions of the enclosure.

Designing the box - the vented section


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ElUglito

Bandpass systems usually suffer from out of band noise, but the effects of this can be reduced by taking appropriate steps in the design of the vented section. The steps that have worked for me in the past include:
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Orienting the driver so that its magnet structure is located in the vented section Placing the driver asymmetrically within the enclosure Placing the port so that the driver is not visible through the port Line the ported section using fiberglass or similar damping material

There is one potential problem here - the damping material may increase the effective size of the vented section and lower Fb, the resonance frequency. I didn't foresee this being much of a problem, however, as I could reduce the effective volume by adding additional braces to bring the resonance frequency back up to specification. I decided to opt for a vented volume that was slightly more than that required for the alignment. If necessary I could use bracing and/or damping material to make any further adjustments.

Designing the box - the sealed section


Designing the sealed section was even easier. Using fiberglass or another damping material in the sealed section leaves me with some leeway in the design, as the effective size of the section can be varied by adding or removing damping material. I opted for a sealed section equivalent to the calculated value for Vr. The bracing and the volume displaced by the driver would reduce the volume, but damping material could be used to counteract the reduction.

Designing the box - response variations


After thinking about it for awhile, I worked out that the conditions listed below may occur in the design and affect the output as indicated. I put together an action plan for each scenario. It's always best to work out all of these details BEFORE you actually start cutting wood, and save yourself unncessessary headache afterwards!
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Vented section too large. r Result: narrow bandwidth; higher cutoff frequency. r Action: reduce Vf by adding bracing in the vented section. Vented section too small. r Result: wider bandwidth, non-flat bandpass characteristic, degraded transients. r Action: add damping material to vented section. Sealed section too large. r Result: lower efficiency, response peak in upper frequencies. r Action: remove damping; add bracing to sealed section. Sealed section too small. r Result: higher cutoff point; response peak at lower frequencies. r Action: add damping material to sealed section.

Designing the box - the final plan


My final battle plan for the project was as follows: Determine Lv, the length of port of diameter Dv, required to tune Vf, the vented section of the enclosure, to Fb. Build the enclosure such that Vf', the gross volume of the vented section, is slightly more than Vf, the net volume predicted by the calculations. Also, Vr' the gross

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ElUglito

volume of the sealed section, will be equal to, if not slightly less than, Vr, the net volume predicted by the calculations. Add a port of length Lv and diameter Dv to the vented section. As Vf' is more than Vf, the tuned frequency of the vented section should be lower than that called for by the calculations. Add bracing/damping to the vented section until the tuning frequency is equal to Fb, the tuning frequency predicted by the calculations. Add bracing/damping to the sealed section until a flat bandpass characteristic is obtained. At this point, the 4th order bandpass system should have a frequency response that is as close to ideal as I can get.

Building the box


And now the hard work began! Basically, a cross-section of my final design looked something like the following:

+---------------------+ | Vf +-------+ | /----\ | Port | | / \ +-------+ +---------------------+ | \ / Drivers | | \----/ | | Vr | +---------------------+ removable panel
And this is what the finished product looked like, from below (with the bottom removed):

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ElUglito

The drivers were mounted from below, in the sealed section of the enclosure. The bottom of the sealed section was made removeable, so that the drivers could be accessed at any time. The bottom of the enclosure would be facing the floor when the system is in its normal position, so no screws are visible. Vf is 7.5 litres, and Vr about 10 litres. 3/4 marine ply, butt joints and aliphatic resin (wood glue) was used throughout. Drywall screws were used to hold the sections together while the aliphatic resin dried, then they were removed and the holes filled with wood filler. The enclosure was then sanded and painted with a white laquer (basically to stop the ply from splintering along the edges!). Tuning was done as outlined in the previous sections. This is what it looks like from the front:

Final Results
The final results are pretty good, if I do say so myself. The passband is very close to the

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ElUglito

predicted 52 Hz-126 Hz, and the noise band is pretty low in level - the highest point is 11dB below the passband, and the noise is virtually inaudible when the system is used along with two Mordaunt-Short 3.2's that I employed temporarily as satellites. A full frequency response check on the system shows that there's a very slight peak in the lower section of the passband ('round 60Hz or so) but that can easily be fixed by adding a bit of bracing to the front chamber to increase the tuning frequency. So far it isn't bothersome, so I haven't bothered to add the bracing.

Frequency Response - 22nd June 1997


Recently, I had the opportunity to measure the frequency response of the system again, using a technique I've been experimenting with over the past few weeks. The results are shown in graphical format below:

Notes:

1. The peak at 1 kHz is the port resonance (a "feature" of almost all bandpass systems),
and can be cured by a simple notch filter. So far I haven't found it bothersome (probably because I'm driving the system using an active filter in the amplifier). 2. The small ripple at 450 Hz is caused by reflections from within the box, probably from the back panel, which is parallel to the port openings. The peak was reduced considerably by the addition of damping material in the front section - which in turn is probably causing the slight peak in output at 60 Hz, because the tuning of the front section has now been altered!. However, the slight bump at 60 Hz is a lot less objectionable than a huge peak at 450 Hz... 3. The slight ripple at 27 Hz I believe was caused by a small leak in the sealed section of the system, which I subsequently fixed. 4. The 2nd and 3rd harmonic distortion readings were taken at a drive level of 2.83 volts to each driver in the system, and the results were measured relative to the output level of the fundemental frequency at this drive level. At this level, the system was generating over 120 dB at the port in the middle of the passband. The rapid rise in 3rd harmonic distortion below 50 Hz is caused by the drivers exceeding their Xmax at this volume level.

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W61

last updated: 11th August 1996

Pyramid W61
The Pyramid W61 is a 6.5" car audio driver with a 3.25" mounting depth. The W61 is located near the bottom of Pyramid's driver range, but can produce decent performance in a small 4th order bandpass enclosure if used in an isobaric configuration. The W61 has a stamped frame, a 40 oz. magnet structure, a paper cone and a foam surround. The Theile/Small parameters for the W61 are as follows: Claimed : Vas=0.67 cu.ft., Qes=0.57, Qms=2.86, Qts=0.47, Fs=64.5 Hz Measured : Vas=0.98 cu.ft., Qes=0.65, Qms=2.51, Qts=0.52, Fs=53.0 Hz

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/w61.htm [26-07-04 04:16:24 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Ported Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Ported Systems


last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

A ported enclosure system consists of a driver mounted on one side of a box that has an open tunnel or port which allows the passage of air in and out of the box. At low frequencies, the vent contributes substantially to the output of the system. The ported enclosure system is characterised by lower distortion and higher power handling in the system's operating range, and lower cutoff frequency than a sealed enclosure system using the same driver. Distortion rapidly increases below the cutoff frequency however as the driver becomes unloaded, and the transient response of a ported enclosure system is usually inferior to that of a sealed enclosure system using the same driver. However, the lower cutoff frequency and better power handling within the system's passband often makes ported systems the alignment of choice for many speaker builders.

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Box calculations Frequency response calculations Power response calculations Port Calculations Design Notes PORTED.XLS Extended Bass Shelf Systems Dual-Chamber Systems my home page

Ported enclosure systems are much more sensitive to misaligned parameters than sealed enclosure systems, which makes their construction more difficult for the beginning DIYer. I advise that you don't attempt to build these systems, unless you're certain that the T/S parameters for the driver that you want to use are correct. Almost any driver can be used in a ported enclosure system, however, only drivers which have a Qts value between 0.2 to 0.5 will generally give satisfactory results. If the driver has a Qts above 0.4, try using it in a sealed enclosure or single reflex bandpass system instead. Ported System projects on the internet
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Audio Lab Loudspeaker Plans Audio Lab Loudspeaker Plans (2) William Cowan's Peerless 831857 subwoofers The Russ Button Subwoofer Monolith Subwoofer (Jerry Lynds) Paul Horn's Subwoofer (6th order Alignment) Luther Ward's Sub Atomic Express Patman's SUNosub Sren Brolin's isobaric subwoofer The Db10tit

Special thanks to Ron Ennenga for providing ideas and equations to approximate the effects of in-car cabin gain and line-level filtering in the PORTED.XLS spreadsheet.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/ [26-07-04 04:16:25 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Ported Systems: Box Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Ported Systems - Box calculations


last updated: 19th March 1997
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To determine the optimum box size and tuning for a ported enclosure system, you will need to know the following Theile/Small parameters for the driver:

Vas = Equivalent air compliance (litres) Qts = total Q of the driver at its resonant frequency Fs = resonance frequency of the driver (Hz) Dv = internal diameter of port (cm)
then,

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Ported Systems Frequency response calculations Power response calculations Port Calculations Design Notes PORTED.XLS my home page

Vb = 20*Qts^3.3*Vas Fb = (Vas/Vb)^0.31*Fs F3 = (Vas/Vb)^0.44*Fs dBpeak = 20*LOG(Qts*(Vas/Vb)^0.3/0.4)


where,

Vb = net box volume (litres) Fb = box resonant frequency (Hz) F3 = -3dB frequency (Hz) dBpeak = maximum peak or dip in system response
Note: This is only one possible alignment for a ported system. Many types of alignments exist, each with its own particular advantages and disadvantages. This particular alignment will give you a maximally flat response within the system's passband, but won't necessarily produce the best results with every driver, particularly those with very low Qts values. You can use the "comparisons" section of the PORTED.XLS file provided on this page to derive a ported alignment that best suits your needs.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/ported1.htm [26-07-04 04:16:26 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Ported Systems: Frequency Response Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Ported Systems - Frequency Response Calculations
last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To calculate the frequency response of a ported enclosure system, you will need to know the following:

Vb = net box volume (litres) Fs = driver resonance frequency (Hz) Qts = driver Q at system resonance Fb = box tuning frequency (Hz) Ql = box losses (Ql=7 can be assumed for most cases)
then,

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Ported Systems Box calculations Power response calculations Port Calculations Design Notes PORTED.XLS my home page

Fn2 = (F/Fs)^2 Fn4 = Fn2^2 A = (Fb/Fs)^2 B = A/Qts+Fb/(Fs*Ql) C = 1+A+(Vas/Vb)+Fb/(Fs*Qts*Ql) D = 1/Qts+Fb/(Fs*Ql) dBmag = 10*LOG(Fn4^2/((Fn4-C*Fn2+A)^2+Fn2*(D*Fn2-B)^2))

My thanks to Bill McFadden, for providing these equations for determining the frequency response of ported systems.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prt/ported2.htm [26-07-04 04:16:27 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Ported Systems: Power Response Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Ported Systems - Power Response Calculations
last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To calculate the power response of a ported enclosure system, you will need to know the following:

Vas = equivalent compliance of driver (litres) Qes = electrical Q of driver at resonance Fs = resonance frequency of driver (Hz) PEmax = maximum input power for driver Fb = resonance frequency of the system F3 = frequency at which response is down by -3dB Dia = effective driver diameter driver (cm) Xmax = peak linear displacement of driver cone (mm)
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Ported Systems Box calculations Frequency response calculations Port Calculations Design Notes PORTED.XLS my home page

then,

Sd = pi*(Dia/100)^2/4 Vd = Sd*Xmax/1000 n0 = 9.64*10^(-10)*Fs^3*Vas/Qes SPL = 112 + 10*LOG(n0) K1 = (4*pi^3*Ro/c)*Fs^4*Vd^2 K2 = 112+10*LOG(K1) Par = 3*F3^4*Vd^2 Per = Par/n0 PeakSPL = SPL+10*LOG(PEmax)
where,

pi = 3.14159265359 c = speed of sound in air (345 m/s) Ro = density of air (1.18 kg/m^3) n0 = free-air efficiency of driver SPL = SPL of driver @1W/1M Par = maximum linear power output Per = electrical input required to produce Par PeakSPL = Thermally-limited SPL in passband
Maximum output at a given frequency F can be calculated as follows:

Fn2 Fn4 A = B = C =

= (F/Fs)^2 = Fn2^2 (Fb/Fs)^2 A/Qts+Fb/(Ql*Fs) 1+A+(Vas/Vb)+Fb/(Fs*Qts*Ql)

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The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Ported Systems: Power Response Calculations

D = 1/Qts+Fb/(Fs*Ql) E = (97/49)*A dBmag = 10*LOG(Fn4^2/((Fn4-C*Fn2+A)^2+Fn2*(D*Fn2-B)^2)) Pmax = (K1/n0)*((Fn4-C*Fn2+A)^2+Fn2*(D*Fn2-B)^2) /(Fn4-E*Fn2+A^2) SPLmax = K2+10*LOG(Fn4^2/(Fn4-E*Fn2+A^2)) SPLtherm = PeakSPL+dBmag
where,

SPLmax = displacement-limited SPL at frequency F (dB/1M) SPLtherm = thermally-limited SPL at frequency F (dB/1M)

My thanks to Bill McFadden, for providing these equations for calculating the power response of ported systems.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Port Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Port Calculations


last updated: 18 February, 2002
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1 Sealed Sytems Ported Systems 4th Order Bandpass Systems 6th Order Bandpass Systems The final touches! Audio DIY Projects Audio DIY Links my home page

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Port Length The port length required to tune a volume of air to a specific frequency can be calculated by using the following equation: Lv = (23562.5*Dv^2*Np/(Fb^2*Vb))-(k*Dv) where, Dv = port diameter (cm) Fb = tuning frequency (Hz) Vb = net volume (litres) Lv = length of each port (cm) Np = number of ports k = end correction (normally 0.732)

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The value for k, the end correction, can be fine-tuned by using the following values to derive the appropriate end correction figure for each end of the port, then adding them together Flanged End: 0.425 Free End: 0.307 e.g. if both ends were flanged, k = 0.425 + 0.425 = 0.850 if one flanged, one free, k = 0.425 + 0.307 = 0.732 if both ends were free, k = 0.307 + 0.307 = 0.614 Normally, k=0.732 is assumed

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Port Calculations

In practice, it's best to use ports that are slightly longer than predicted by the above equations, then adjust their length until the correct tuning is achieved. It is much easier to shorten a port than to lengthen it! Minimum Port Diameter To calculate the minimum diameter of the port required to prevent port noises, you will also need to know the following: Xmax = maximum linear displacement (mm) Dia = Effective diameter of driver (cm) Np = number of ports Calculate the minimum port diameter from the following equations: Sd = pi*(Dia/100)^2/4 Vd = Sd*Xmax/1000 Dmin = 100*(20.3*(Vd^2/Fb)^0.25)/Np^.5 where, Dmin = minimum port diameter (cm) Note: You CAN use ports that have a smaller diameter than that given by the equation above, especially if the ports are flared at both ends. However, at higher volumes, you may notice some port noise caused by the air rushing through the ports.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/portcal.htm (2 of 2) [26-07-04 04:16:29 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 4th Order Bandpass Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 4th Order Bandpass Systems


last updated: 30 October, 2002
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

The 4th order or sealed rear chamber bandpass system is basically a sealed enclosure system with the addition of an acoustic filter in front of the driver. The resulting system usually provides a lower cutoff frequency, the tradeoff being a larger enclosure. The enclosure can be reduced in size by using two drivers in an isobaric configuration. 4th order bandpass systems usually demonstrate better power handling characteristics than the other main systems considered here. Its transient response is second only to the sealed enclosure systems, making it a good choice for subwoofer applications. As all of the output of the 4th order bandpass system is via the port, the largest port diameter possible for the enclosure should be used in order to minimize port noises. The ports should be flared whenever possible, for the same reasons. The 4th order bandpass system rarely exhibits a perfect bandpass response - there is usually some out-of-band noise present in its output. A simple notch filter can be used to reduce this noise if it is audible. Alternatively, a low-pass filter can be used in series with the driver, but the in-band response of the system may also be affected if this approach is taken. 4th Order Bandpass projects on the internet
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Box calculations Frequency Response Calculations Power Response Calculations Port Calculations Notch Filter Design Notes BANDPASS.XLS

"El Uglito" - an isobaric 4th order bandpass system The Stryke ParaSWAN subwoofer project DECWare's "Wicked One" horn-loaded bandpass subwoofer Home Built subwoofers for the LS3/5a

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/bnd/4thorder.htm [26-07-04 04:16:30 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 4th Order Bandpass Systems: Box Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 4th Order Bandpass Systems: Box Calculations
last updated: 30 October, 2002
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To use the following calculations, you will need to know the following: Vas = equivalent air compliance for the driver (litres) Fs = driver resonance frequency Qts = driver Q at Fs The following equations will allow you to design a 4th order bandpass system with a desired low frequency limit or a desired gain. You will need to choose a value for "S" that suits your requirements. 4th order bandpass systems where S is less than 0.7 will have a degraded transient response, but wider bandwidth and smaller box requirements. if S = 0.7, then b = 0.7206, passband ripple = 0.00 dB if S = 0.6, then b = 0.9560, passband ripple = 0.35 dB if S = 0.5, then b = 1.2712, passband ripple = 1.25 dB 4th order bandpass system with desired low frequency limit Choose a value for Fl, the lower 3dB cutoff frequency, then, Fl' Fh Qbp Fb Vf Vr Pa = = = = = = = (Fl*Qts)/Fs (Fl'+b)*Fs/Qts (Fl'*(Fl'+b))^0.5 Qbp*Fs/Qts (2*S*Qts)^2*Vas Vas/((Qbp/Qts)^2-1) -40*LOG(1/(Qbp*2*S))

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4th Order Bandpass Systems Frequency Response Calculations Port Calculations Notch Filter Design Notes Tri-Chamber Systems BANDPASS.XLS my home page

where, Fh = upper -3dB cutoff frequency (Hz) Qbp = Qtc of sealed chamber Fb = resonance frequency of vented chamber(Hz) Vf = net volume of vented chamber (litres) Vr = net volume of sealed chamber (litres) Pa = gain (dB)

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/bnd/4thord1.htm (1 of 2) [26-07-04 04:16:32 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 4th Order Bandpass Systems: Box Calculations

4th order bandpass system with desired gain Choose a value for Pa, the gain in efficiency, then, Qbp Fl Fh Fb Vf Vr = = = = = = ((10^(-Pa/40))*2*S)^-1 ((-b+(b^2+4*Qbp^2)^0.5)/2)*(Fs/Qts) Fl+(b*Fs/Qts) Qbp*Fs/Qts (2*S*Qts)^2*Vas Vas/((Qbp/Qts)^2-1)

where, Fl Fh Qbp Fb Vf Vr Pa = = = = lower -3dB cutoff frequency (Hz) upper -3dB cutoff frequency (Hz) Qtc of sealed chamber tuning frequency of vented chamber (Hz) = net volume of vented chamber (litres) = net volume of sealed chamber (litres) = gain (dB)

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/bnd/4thord1.htm (2 of 2) [26-07-04 04:16:32 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 4th Order Bandpass Systems: Frequency Response Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 4th Order Bandpass Systems: Frequency Response Calculations
last updated: 30 Oct 2002
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To calculate the frequency response of a 4th order bandpass system, you will need to know the following:

Vf = net front volume (litres) Ff = front volume tuning frequency Vr = net rear volume (litres) Fs = driver resonance frequency (Hz) Qts = driver Q at system resonance Ql = box losses (Ql=infinite (10000) can be assumed for most cases)
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4th Order Bandpass Systems Box calculations Port Calculations Notch Filter Design Notes BANDPASS.XLS my home page

then at frequency F,

A = (1/Ff)^2*F^4 B = ((1/Ql+(Fs/Ff)/Qts)/Ff)*F^3 C = (((1+Vas/Vr+Vas/Vf)*Fs/Ff+(1/Qts)/Ql)*Fs/Ff+1)*F^2 D = ((1/Qts+(Fs/Ff)/Ql*(Vas/Vr+1))*Fs)*F E = (Vas/Vr+1)*Fs^2 G = A-C+E H = -B+D dBmag = 20*log(F^2/(G^2+H^2)^.5)

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/bnd/4thord2.htm [26-07-04 04:16:33 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 6th Order Bandpass Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 6th Order Bandpass Systems


last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

The 6th order bandpass system is similar to the 4th order bandpass system , except in this case both the front and the rear volumes are tuned via vents. The power handling of the 6th order bandpass system ranges from excellent within its passband to poor for frequencies lower than its passband. The transient performance of 6th order bandpass systems is usually worse than the sealed, ported and 4th order bandpass systems, making it more suitable for sound reinforcement, multimedia and other less critical applications, rather than high-end audio. Like ported systems, the driver becomes unloaded at frequencies lower than the passband.

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Box Calculations Frequency Response Calculations Port Calculations Notch Filter Design Notes Series-tuned systems BANDPASS.XLS my home page

As all of the output of the 6th order bandpass system is via the two ports, the largest port diameter possible for each volume should be used in order to minimize port noises. As with the 4th order system, the 6th order bandpass system rarely exhibits a perfect bandpass response - there is usually some out-of-band noise present in its output. A simple notch filter can be used to reduce this noise if it is audible. Alternatively, a low-pass filter may be used, but the in-band performance may be affected.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/bnd/6thorder.htm [26-07-04 04:16:34 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 6th Order Bandpass Systems: Box Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 6th Order Bandpass Systems: Box Calculations
last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

Due to the considerable design flexibility of 6th order bandpass systems, a handcalculator method does not exist for determining optimum box size and tuning. However, I've provided two tables below that will allow you to design two 6th order bandpass alignments for a particular driver. These systems will have flat (or very nearly flat) frequency responses within their passbands, and, in most instances, the front and rear volumes will be sufficiently large to prevent power compression from using excessively small port diameters to achieve the required tuning. However, if you do use these tables, please examine the predicted results CAREFULLY, to see if they match your requirements. An alternative method for designing a 6th order bandpass system is to use the frequency response equations and some trial and error to find a 6th order BP alignment whose frequency response matches your needs. To use the following calculations, you will need to know the following: Vas = equiv. air compliance (litres) Qts = driver Q at its resonance frequency Fs = driver resonance frequency (Hz) First of all, using the driver's Qts value, determine the values of Vf/Vas, Ff/Fs, Vr/Vas, Fr/Fs, F3h/Fs, F3l/Fs and Gain from one of the tables given below: Table #1: Qts Vf/Vas Ff/Fs Vr/Vas Fr/Fs Fh/Fs Fl/Fs Gain ==================================================== 0.18 0.190 1.950 0.440 1.000 2.370 1.052 -2.3 0.19 0.200 1.960 0.460 1.000 2.410 1.013 -1.9 0.20 0.212 1.960 0.465 1.000 2.410 1.070 -1.4 0.21 0.215 1.980 0.470 1.000 2.460 1.076 -1.1 0.22 0.217 2.020 0.510 1.000 2.590 1.060 -0.9 0.23 0.223 2.032 0.530 1.000 2.640 1.060 -0.6 0.24 0.230 2.040 0.550 1.000 2.680 1.060 -0.3 0.25 0.252 2.010 0.580 1.000 2.620 1.060 0.2 0.26 0.270 1.988 0.600 1.000 2.570 1.060 0.6 0.27 0.294 1.960 0.630 1.000 2.510 1.064 1.1 0.28 0.308 1.950 0.660 1.000 2.500 1.060 1.4 Table #2: Qts Vf/Vas Ff/Fs Vr/Vas Fr/Fs Fh/Fs Fl/Fs Gain ====================================================

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6th Order Bandpass Systems Frequency Response Calculations Port Calculations Notch Filter Design Notes BANDPASS.XLS my home page

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 6th Order Bandpass Systems: Box Calculations

0.25 0.26 0.27 0.28 0.29 0.30 0.31

0.142 0.162 0.183 0.203 0.210 0.225 0.246

2.608 2.520 2.438 2.385 2.347 2.316 2.263

0.270 0.291 0.315 0.341 0.370 0.391 0.420

1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000 1.000

3.952 3.740 3.529 3.423 3.360 3.297 3.170

1.398 1.368 1.353 1.323 1.293 1.281 1.262

-0.3 0.3 0.8 1.1 1.3 1.6 2.0

Then, use the steps below to calculate the front and rear enclosure sizes and tuning for the 6th order bandpass system. 1. Calculate the front volume parameters using the following equations: Vf = (Vf/Vas)*Vas Ff = (Ff/Fs)*Fs Fh = (Fh/Fs)*Fs where, Vf = net front volume Ff = front tuning frequency (Hz) Fh = upper -3dB cutoff frequency (Hz) 2. Calculate the rear volume parameters using the following equations: Vr = (Vr/Vas)*Vas Fr = (Fr/Fs)*Fs Fl = (Fl/Fs)*Fs where, Vr = net rear volume Fr = rear tuning frequency (Hz) Fl = lower -3dB cutoff frequency (Hz)

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 6th Order Bandpass Systems: Frequency Response Calculations

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 6th Order Bandpass Systems: Frequency Response Calculations
last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

To calculate the frequency response of a 6th order bandpass system,you will need to know the following: Vas = equivalent air compliance (litres) Vf = net front volume (litres) Ff = front volume tuning frequency (Hz) Vr = net rear volume (litres) Fr = rear volume tuning frequency (Hz) Fs = driver resonance frequency (Hz) Qts = driver Q at system resonance Ql = box losses (Ql=infinite (10000) can be assumed for most cases)

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6th Order Bandpass Systems Box Calculations Port Calculations Notch Filter Design Notes BANDPASS.XLS my home page

Then at frequency F, a b c d abs(Ff^2-Fr^2)*F^4 F^6 (Fr^2/Ff/Ql+Fs/Qts+Ff/Ql)*F^5 (Ff^2+Fr^2+Fs*(Fr^2/Ff/Qts/Ql+Ff/Qts/Ql)+ Fs^2*(Vas/Vf+Vas/Vr+1))*F^4 e = (Fs^2*(Ff/Ql*(Vas/Vr+1)+Fr^2/Ff/Ql*(Vas/Vf+1))+ Fs/Qts*(Fr^2+Ff^2)+2*Fr^2*Ff/Ql)*F^3 f = (Fs^2*(Fr^2*(Vas/Vf+1)+Ff^2*(Vas/Vr+1))+ 2*Fr^2*Ff*Fs/Qts/Ql+ Fr^2*Ff^2)*F^2 g = (Fr^2*Ff*(Ff*Fs/Qts+2*Fs^2/Ql))*F h = Fs^2*Fr^2*Ff^2 i = -b+d-f+h j = c-e+g dBmag = 20*log(a/(i^2+j^2)^.5) = = = =

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/bnd/6thord2.htm [26-07-04 04:16:37 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Bandpass Systems: Notch Filter

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Bandpass Systems: Notch Filter


last updated: 6th May1998

Subwoofer DIY v1.1 4th Order Bandpass Systems 6th Order Bandpass Systems BANDPASS.XLS my home page

Notch Filter Your bandpass design may suffer from out of band noise, unless you take some steps to reduce it. One method of doing this is to use a passive Parallel Notch Circuit in series with the driver to get rid of the noise. This filter circuit looks like the following: C +------||-------+ | L | o---------+----~~~~~------+---------o | R | +---/\/\/\/\----+ To calculate the values of C, R, and L, you'll first need to find F, the midpoint of the noiseband. Also find F1 and F2, the frequencies at which the response drops by 3dB compared to the response at F. Alternatively, assume that the majority of the noise problem occurs at the pipe resonance frequency of the port (344/(2*L)), where L is the length of the port in metres, and also assume 0.95*F and 1.05*F as the -3dB frequencies F1 and F2. Then:

C = 0.03003/F (Farads) L = 0.02252/(F^2*C) (Henries) R = 1/(6.2832*C*(F1-F2)) (Ohms)


Note that capacitors are usually rated in microfarads (uF) and coils in milliHenries (mH). To convert:

1 F = 1,000,000 uF 1 H = 1000 mH
Example: Center of noise band, F, is at 300 Hz -3dB points occur at 250 Hz and 360 Hz

C = 0.03003/F = 0.03003/300 = 0.0001001 Farads

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Bandpass Systems: Notch Filter

L = 0.02252/(F^2*C) = 0.02252/(90000*0.0001001) = 0.00248 Henries R = = = = 1/(6.2832*C*(F1-F2) 1/(6.2832*.0001001*(360-250)) 1/(6.2832*0.0001001*110) 14.5 Ohms

Values required (closest match)

C = 100 uF (bipolar) H = 2.50 mH (preferably air-core) R = 14.5 ohms power rating for R is approx = Pe*R/(R+Re) where, Pe = speaker power rating Re = speaker's min impedance

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 6th Order Bandpass Systems: Design Notes

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 6th Order Bandpass Systems: Design Notes
last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

Choosing an alignment Be careful when choosing a 6th order bandpass alignment for your driver. An ultra-large box with an ultra-low cutoff frequency may not produce the best results, because of the reduced power handling and lower efficiency. Examine carefully the cutoff frequency and box size and tradeoff in efficiency to determine whether or not this alignment lives up to your expectations. Where should I put the ports? Ports should be placed at least one diameter away from any adjacent walls. If this is not possible to do this, the tuning frequency for a given port length will be lower than that predicted by the equations, and this may adversely affect the results. Lining the box One layer of lining on every wall for each section will generally give better results, as the lining will help to reduce the out of band noise. Ensure that no lining obstructs the ports. Fiberglass will work here, but make sure that none's located near the port entrance, as air turbulence can rip chunks of it off the walls and eject it through the port. Any change in the tuning frequency introduced by lining the enclosure can be adjusting by shortening the port(s) slightly. Port size Use the largest ports possible for your design. This will reduce power compression effects and port noise caused by turbulence. Flaring the ends of the port will also produce better results.

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6th Order Bandpass Systems Box Calculations Frequency Response Calculations Port Calculations Notch Filter BANDPASS.XLS my home page

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/bnd/6thord3.htm [26-07-04 04:16:39 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 6th Order Bandpass Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 6th Order Bandpass Systems


last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

Series-Tuned 6th Order Bandpass Systems


Series tuned systems are similar to the 'normal' 6th order bandpass systems, with one major difference - one chamber is vented into another instead of to the outside, as indicated in the diagram below:

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Box Calculations Frequency Response Calculations Port Calculations Notch Filter Design Notes BANDPASS.XLS my home page

Calculation of the appropriate length for the inner port is somewhat complex, as both the inner and outer ports work together to tune the rear chamber to a particular frequency. You can simplify the calculations somewhat by using the following method:

1. Determine Fr, the desired resonance frequency for the


rear chamber Vr, and Ff, the desired resonance frequency for the front chamber Vfr. 2. Determine Lr and Lf, the required vent lengths to tune Vr and Vf to the desired resonance frequencies. Use identical vent diameters (D) for both calculations. 3. The correct length for the inner vent, Lr', can be calculated as follows: Lr'=Lr-Lf. 4. If you wish to use a different vent diameter for the inner vent, first work out Ff': the resonance frequency of a volume equivalent to Vr that is tuned with a vent of length Lr' and diameter D. You can then vary the diameter and length of the vent, once Ff' is maintained. Example: A standard 6th order bandpass design calls for the following alignment parameters: Vf=0.75 cu.ft., Ff=80 Hz Vr=2.25 cu.ft., Ff=30 Hz First, let's choose to use a 4" diameter tube for both vents. To tune a 0.75 cu.ft. enclosure to 100 Hz with a 4" vent, our calculations suggest that the vent will have to be 4.11" long.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - 6th Order Bandpass Systems

To tune a 2.25 cu.ft. enclosure to 30 Hz with a 4" vent, our calculations suggest that the vent will have to be 13.76" long. Therefore, if we were to use a 4" tube for the inner vent, it's length will have to be 13.76-4.11 = 9.65" long. Let's say that 9.65" is a bit too long for our needs, so we'd like to use a 3" diameter internal vent instead. First of all, we use the port calculation equations to determine that a 2.25 cu.ft. enclosure with a 4" diameter vent that's 9.65" long will be tuned to 34.6 Hz. Then, using the port calculations, we determine that, to tune a 2.25 cu.ft. enclosure to 34.6 Hz with a 3" diameter vent, the vent will have to be 4.86" long. The physical parameters for our 6th order series-tuned alignment are therefore as follows: Front Volume: 0.75 cu.ft. Rear Volume: 2.25 cu.ft. Outer Vent: 4" diameter vent, 4.11" long Inner Vent: 3" diameter vent, 4.86" long Note: Typically, to make construction easier, I'd probably want to shift the theoretical resonance frequencies of this alignment up and down just a little, to see if I can get away with 4" and 4.75" instead of 4.11" and 4.86" lengths. Also, the geometry of the front volume may impact Fr as well (pushing it a bit lower, which is usually a good thing!). As with most designs, measure the resonance frequencies after construction, to see how close you've come to the target alignment.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Audio Links

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 DIY Audio Links


last updated: 06 June, 2004

DIY Loudspeakers List Digests


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Other DIY Audio Links:


Speaker Design and Construction

Volume 1 Volume 2
Digests from Volume 3 are available from the list server. Send the following command via e-mail to listproc@mcfeeley.cc.utexas.edu : get bass bass-digest.nnn where "nnnn" is the number of the digest that you want to retrieve.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page JL Audio's home page (good tutorials) ESL Info eXchange Subwoofers.org

Speaker and Crossover Online Design Calculators


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Search V1,V2 digests:

Juha Hartikainen's Interactive Speaker Design Program (java) Shavano Music Online - Cross-Over Network; Air Core Inductor Calculator Steve Ekblad's Free Audio Software and On-Line Enclosure Design

Search for exact text


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Specific Drivers or Equipment


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Search Volume 3 by sending the following command via e-mail to listproc@mcfeeley.cc.utexas.edu : search bass -all 'search string' where 'search string' is the string you are looking for (don't forget to use the single quotes).

The DIY Loudspeaker Driver Selection Guide The Theile-Small Loudspeaker Database Audua - home of the "Speaker Workshop" software High-Performance 12" driver comparison (Deon Bearden)

General Information
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List of Suppliers DIYAudio - the Reference Site Robert's HiFi Page (everything!!) Bill McFadden's home page List of audio DIY reference material Robert Bullock's home page (the man himself!) Art Ludwig's Sound Page The DIY Audio Corner Acoustic Filters Lab Jack Burnett Associates LLC (RCM akustik) eCoustics.com - everything hifi online Linkwitz Lab Mobile Electronics Industry Search [AES] How to listen to loudspeakers

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/audiolinks.htm (1 of 2) [26-07-04 04:16:43 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Audio Links

Forums
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The Audio Corner DIY Forum Madisound Discussion Forum Parts Express Technical Talk The Subwoofer DIY Forum

DIY Audio Articles:


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Subwoofer Response - What's important? - Brian Steele (the Subwoofer DIY Page) This is a short essay that I put together, based on some in-room response measurements that I've made. May be interesting to you if you considering building your own subwoofer... The placement of a subwoofer - Ingvar hman So, after I've built my sub, where's the best place to put it to get the best response? Auto Cabin Gain Measurements - John Janowitz / Deon Bearden A collection of car audio subwoofer response curves, demonstrating the "cabin gain" effect.

Miscellaneous Items:
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Dr. Andrew Rimell has created a free loudspeaker calculator for the Psion5 platform. A copy of the program can be dowloaded from the following URL: http://www.geocities.com/andrew_and_deborah/Psion/Speaker/speaker.html Driver Parameter Calculator version 0.5.2 Copyright 1996 by Claus Futtrup. DPC is an interactive editor for loudspeaker driver parameters. You enter known parameters and DPC calculates other parameters for you. Also supported is measuring data, eg. calculating parameters using the Carrion-Isbert method for lossy closed boxes. 1MB, documentation. The JBL Bass Wave amplifier has been mentioned on the DIY Loudspeakers Mailing List. You can read more about this amplifier (as well as modifications to improve it) on my Bass Wave Modifications Page

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/audiolinks.htm (2 of 2) [26-07-04 04:16:43 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Suppliers

The Subwoofer DIY Page Suppliers


Last updated: 02 April 2003

Adire Audio PO Box 85891 Seattle, WA 98145-1891


Tel: 206-595-3524 Fax: 630-839-6192 E-mail: avatar@avatar.cnchost.com

AudioSold (Audiohile Auction Site) WWW: http://www.audiosold.com Audio-X-Stream 6517 Riggs Place Los Angeles, CA90045 Tel: 310-410-9157 E-mail: AudioXtrem@aol.com Audio Concepts Inc. 901 South 4th St. La Crosse, WI 54601 Tel: 608-784-4570 Fax: 608-784-6367 E-mail: sales@audioc.com WWW: http://www.audioc.com/ Kerlegan Audio Loudspeakers P.O.Box 111 Newark, CA 94560 Tel: 510-794-5347 E-mail: sales@kaudio.com WWW: http://www.kaudio.com/ Madisound Speaker Components 8608 University Green P.O. Box 44283 Madison, WI 53744-4283 Tel: 608-831-3433 Fax: 608-831-3771 E-mail:madisound@itis.com WWW: http://www.itis.com/madisound/ Mark V Electronics, Inc. 8019 E. Slauson Avenue Montebello, CA 90640 Tel: 800-423-FIVE (orders outside Canada) 800-521-MARK (orders in Canada) 213-888-8988 (catalog/info) Fax: 213-888-6868 Meniscus Audio Group, Inc. E-mail: meniscus@iserv.net

WWW: http://www.adireaudio.com
Bamberg Engineering Sound Lab Tucson, Arizona 85742-9423 Phone: 520-572-0406 WWW: http://www.bamberglab.com

Creative Sound Solutions 33-2655 Gananoque Dr Mississauga, Ontario Canada L5N 3A6 Tel: 905-286-1906 E-mail: sales@creativesound.sa WWW: http://www.creativesound.ca Digital Designs Mobile Electronics 912 N. Classen Blvd. Oklahoma City OK 73106 Tel: 888.563.4448, 405.239.2800 Fax: 405.239.7100 WWW: http://www.digitaldesignsaudio.com/ Klipsch Pro Audio WWR Technology d.b.a. Klipsch Professional P.O. Box 1320 Hope, Arkansas USA 71802 WWW: http://www.klipschpro.com/ Marchand Electronics Ltd. P.O. Box 473 Webster, NY 14580 Tel: 716-872-0980 FAX: 716-872-1960 E-mail: info@marchandelec.com WWW: http://www.marchandelec.com/ MCM Electronics 650 Congress Park Dr. Centerville,

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/supplier.htm (1 of 2) [26-07-04 04:16:45 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Suppliers

OH 45459-4072 Tel: 800-543-4330 E-mail: talk@mcmelectronics.com North Creek Music System Main St. P.O. Box 1120 Old Forge, NY 13420 Tel: 315-369-2500 (voice & fax) Solen Electronique Inc. 4470 Thibeault Avenue St. Hubert, Quebec J3Y 7T9 Canada Tel: 514-656-2759 Fax: 514-443-4949 E-mail: solen@quebec.net Speaker City U.S.A. 115 So. Victory Blvd. Burbank, CA 91502 Tel: 818-846-9921 Fax: 818-846-1009 E-mail: staff@speakercity.com WWW: http://www.speakercity.com/ Zalytron Industries Corp. 469 Jerich Turnpike Mineola, NY 11501 Tel: 516-747-3515 Fax: 516-294-1943 WWW: http://www.zalytron.com/

WWW: http://www.iserv.net/~meniscus/ Natch Engineering 2 Station Terrace Framlingham, Woodbridge IP13 9EF, UK Tel: (+44) (0)1728-723306 Fax: (+44) (0)1728 723321 E-mail: web@NaTCH.co.uk WWW: http://www.natch.co..uk Old Colony Sound Lab P.O. Box 243 Peterborough, NH 03458-0243 Tel: 603-924-6371, 603-924-6526 Fax: 603-924-9467 Parts Express 340 E. First St. Dayton, Ohio, 45402-1257 Tel: 513-222-0173 Fax: 513-222-4644 WWW: http://www.parts-express.com/ Speakers Etc 1828 West Peoria Phoenix, AZ 85029 Fax: 602-371-0605

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References (beta)

last updated: 18th June 1996

References
Books
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"How to Design, Build and Test Complete Speaker Systems", by David Weems. "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook", Vance Dickason. (I use the 4th edition!) "Loudspeaker Recipes Book 1", Vance Dickason. "High Performance Loudspeakers", Martin Colloms.

Publications/Subscriptions:
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"Speaker Builder Magazine" "Journal of The Audio Engineering Society" JAES, "Anthologies Series"

Note: these items will be converted to HTML links in the near future, as and when I get more information!

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/referenc.htm [26-07-04 04:16:46 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Discussion Forum

The Subwoofer DIY Page - Discussion Forum


[ Post Message ] [ Show Latest ] [ View Threads ] [ Search ] [ Subscribe ] [ The Subwoofer DIY Page ]
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First DIY Subwoofer, Some Questions - thetubeguy1954 25-Jul-2004 12:38:54 (0) active xover with equalization - mike 25-Jul-2004 01:42:20 (0) Re: Subwoofer repair help - Amos Newsome 24-Jul-2004 21:04:59 (0) box design for kfc-w2500 - Eugene Goyena 24-Jul-2004 09:44:21 (1) r KFC ? - djk 24-Jul-2004 16:01:29 (0) Shiva woes - Brock 22-Jul-2004 22:43:11 (1) r Re: Shiva woes - Pete Schumacher 23-Jul-2004 01:41:35 (0) Build Something n Listen - sai 22-Jul-2004 02:37:41 (3) r Re: Build Something n Listen - Pete Schumacher 22-Jul-2004 10:09:33 (2) s Good Looing PR. - sai 22-Jul-2004 23:00:13 (1) s Re: Good Looing PR. - Pete Schumacher 23-Jul-2004 01:24:16 (0) pyle 18" - sam 21-Jul-2004 17:46:59 (2) r Mind Reader ? - djk 24-Jul-2004 16:40:51 (0) r wow, i have no idea, NO SPECS = NO HELP - norman bates 24-Jul-2004 09:44:28 (0) Re: What Sub for a tube amplifier with 96 db diy fostex speakers? - Pascal 21-Jul-2004 17:41:03 (0) Wadding in ported cabinets - Phil Williams 20-Jul-2004 18:55:08 (1) r Re: Wadding in ported cabinets - Brian 24-Jul-2004 00:01:06 (0) 4Th Bandpass - Thomas 20-Jul-2004 16:10:18 (1) r Re: 4Th Bandpass - Brian 23-Jul-2004 23:59:45 (0) show off your diy sub! - paulspencer2002 20-Jul-2004 11:36:10 (4) r Re: show off your diy sub! - Pete Schumacher 21-Jul-2004 00:31:10 (3) s Re: show off your diy sub! - paulspencer2002 21-Jul-2004 04:02:12 (2) s Re: show off your diy sub! - Pete Schumacher 21-Jul-2004 08:48:06 (1) s Re: show off your diy sub! - paulspencer2002 21-Jul-2004 09:46:06 (0) RMS?? - Thomas 20-Jul-2004 10:51:09 (1) r Re: RMS?? - Pete Schumacher 21-Jul-2004 00:32:21 (0) Re: Crown Amps - Al 19-Jul-2004 18:21:38 (2) r Re: Crown Amps - BWRX 23-Jul-2004 01:08:40 (0) r Re: Crown Amps - djk 21-Jul-2004 06:12:10 (0) Parameters G-Bomb - Piet 19-Jul-2004 18:12:13 (0) E-V Wolverine LS-12 folded horn - Dave Hughes 19-Jul-2004 18:03:12 (0) Sub question - thomas 18-Jul-2004 10:13:15 (0) Tempest on eBay - Corey 18-Jul-2004 03:01:01 (1) r Re: Tempest on eBay - Corey 18-Jul-2004 03:02:02 (0) a new use for your old loudspeakers - cctrol 18-Jul-2004 00:57:04 (1) r Re: a new use for your old loudspeakers - Corey 18-Jul-2004 02:11:43 (0) 1000W Sub Amp - James 17-Jul-2004 20:44:54 (4) r Re: 1000W Sub Amp - Chris Johnson 17-Jul-2004 23:25:54 (3) s Re: 1000W Sub Amp - James 19-Jul-2004 22:17:52 (2) s Re: 1000W Sub Amp - Chris Johnson 20-Jul-2004 01:42:32 (1)

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/talkshop/ (1 of 6) [26-07-04 04:16:51 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Discussion Forum

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Re: 1000W Sub Amp - Tricks 21-Jul-2004 06:22:59 (0) how 'bout it trunk thumpers - Pete Schumacher 16-Jul-2004 01:43:23 (3) r Re: how 'bout it trunk thumpers - Brian 17-Jul-2004 20:56:01 (0) r Re: how 'bout it trunk thumpers - BWRX 16-Jul-2004 22:58:29 (0) r Re: how 'bout it trunk thumpers - Brian Owens 16-Jul-2004 08:52:46 (0) Looking for a replacement for a Pioneer DEQ9200 - Brian 16-Jul-2004 00:10:22 (0) Potentiometer wiring - bassfanatic 14-Jul-2004 07:29:05 (2) r Re: Potentiometer wiring - Brian 16-Jul-2004 00:06:50 (1) s Re: Potentiometer wiring - bassfanatic 16-Jul-2004 02:54:05 (0) Any opinion? - Thomas 13-Jul-2004 14:43:09 (1) r Value - djk 14-Jul-2004 08:16:04 (0) Germany + Subwoofer Driver = ??? - sai 12-Jul-2004 23:35:25 (10) r Any software (demos) available?? - sai 13-Jul-2004 06:36:47 (4) s Ah heck, why not link this one too... - Michael Stigall 13-Jul-2004 10:41:15 (0) s And another one, but you'll need excel... - Michael Stigall 13-Jul-2004 10:37:52 (0) s Here's another one... - Michael Stigall 13-Jul-2004 10:32:28 (0) s Not a demo, actually, just a great free program - Michael Stigall 13-Jul-2004 10:30:00 (0) r Any software (demos) available?? - sai 13-Jul-2004 06:35:05 (4) s Any knowledge about Peerless' line of XLS 12" drivers. - sai 15-Jul-2004 01:08:57 (3) s Re: Any knowledge about Peerless' line of XLS 12" drivers. - Pete Schumacher 15-Jul2004 10:05:30 (2) s Can anyone send me (link me) to the DPL12 Spec Sheet ?? - sai 21-Jul-2004 01:35:23 (1) s Re: Can anyone send me (link me) to the DPL12 Spec Sheet ?? - Pete Schumacher 21-Jul-2004 09:09:31 (0) Power amplifier - Thomas 12-Jul-2004 13:38:02 (2) r Re: Power amplifier - Paul Spencer 15-Jul-2004 19:02:17 (0) r Re: Power amplifier - Michael Stigall 12-Jul-2004 18:49:47 (0) Re: Have YOU ever heard of this company? - Bob 10-Jul-2004 00:07:52 (0) Here's an idea for a TRUE subwoofer! - Michael Stigall 09-Jul-2004 15:46:04 (5) r Re: Here's an idea for a TRUE subwoofer! - Pete Schumacher 09-Jul-2004 16:26:50 (4) s Re: Here's an idea for a TRUE subwoofer! - Michael Stigall 09-Jul-2004 16:35:40 (3) s Re: Here's an idea for a TRUE subwoofer! - Pete Schumacher 09-Jul-2004 17:35:19 (2) s Never mind, I found it!!! Just don't know yet how to use it. - Pete Schumacher 09-Jul-2004 18:03:45 (1) s Sounds Great! Can I borrow 500 bucks? - Michael Stigall 10-Jul-2004 12:23:28 (0) good sub.... - Thomas 08-Jul-2004 21:51:33 (5) r Re: good sub.... - Nate-Diggidy 18-Jul-2004 12:48:21 (1) s Re: good sub.... - Corey 18-Jul-2004 20:46:09 (0) r Ditto for me - Michael Stigall 13-Jul-2004 14:18:34 (0) r Re: good sub.... - Pete Schumacher 12-Jul-2004 12:34:23 (0) r Re: good sub.... - Brian 10-Jul-2004 11:07:19 (0) Air flow noise in reflex tube - ICEBLADE 08-Jul-2004 18:28:38 (9)
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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Discussion Forum

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Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube - Pete Schumacher 08-Jul-2004 23:12:21 (8) s Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube - ICEBLADE 09-Jul-2004 04:04:00 (7) s Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube - Brian 10-Jul-2004 11:04:44 (0) s Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube - Pete Schumacher 09-Jul-2004 09:34:20 (5) s Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube - paulspencer2002 15-Jul-2004 19:04:42 (4) s Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube - Freq Freak 21-Jul-2004 22:02:54 (3) s Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube - paulspencer2002 22-Jul2004 04:32:35 (2) s Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube - MadMan 23-Jul2004 06:18:42 (1) s Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube paulspencer2002 23-Jul-2004 07:00:04 (0) Passive radiator - Anton 08-Jul-2004 17:43:58 (3) r Re: Passive radiator - Brian 10-Jul-2004 11:38:10 (2) s Re: Passive radiator - Anton 10-Jul-2004 13:01:43 (1) s Re: Passive radiator - Brian 10-Jul-2004 15:16:38 (0) Iowa 2004 DIY Event , Oct. 23rd in Des Moines, Iowa - Jim Holtz 08-Jul-2004 17:41:25 (0) A Subwoofer Simulator question - Michael Stigall 08-Jul-2004 15:32:26 (6) r Re: A Subwoofer Simulator question - Isaac 09-Jul-2004 06:39:21 (5) s Re: A Subwoofer Simulator question - Michael Stigall 09-Jul-2004 14:25:17 (2) s Re: A Subwoofer Simulator question - Isaac 10-Jul-2004 07:58:39 (1) s Got it! - Michael Stigall 10-Jul-2004 12:17:06 (0) s You're THAT Isaac??? - Michael Stigall 09-Jul-2004 12:13:48 (1) s Re: You're THAT Isaac??? - Isaac 10-Jul-2004 08:06:30 (0) question about sub enclosure - Chris 07-Jul-2004 22:03:52 (2) r Re: question about sub enclosure - Philip Hebbler 08-Jul-2004 17:43:31 (0) r Re: question about sub enclosure - Brian Owens 08-Jul-2004 08:10:14 (0) HELP - I'm a budding DIY subwoofer builder and need some help - Ian Revill 07-Jul-2004 17:59:25 (5) r Re: HELP - I'm a budding DIY subwoofer builder and need some help - BigMacX 14-Jul-2004 19:17:23 (1) s Re: HELP - I'm a budding DIY subwoofer builder and need some help - Ian Revill 16-Jul-2004 08:31:50 (0) r Re: HELP - I'm a budding DIY subwoofer builder and need some help - Pete Schumacher 08-Jul-2004 10:34:20 (2) s Re: HELP - I'm a budding DIY subwoofer builder and need some help - Ian Revill 08-Jul-2004 11:00:30 (1) s Re: HELP - I'm a budding DIY subwoofer builder and need some help - Pete Schumacher 08-Jul-2004 18:12:34 (0) Tempest Sub-box in a built in unit - Corey 07-Jul-2004 17:52:27 (2) r Re: Tempest Sub-box in a built in unit - Brian Owens 08-Jul-2004 08:07:16 (1) s Re: Tempest Sub-box in a built in unit - Corey 08-Jul-2004 08:12:29 (0) !!!HOLY CRAP THESE SUBS KICK BUTT!!! - Gordo 06-Jul-2004 14:15:55 (5) r Re: !!!HOLY CRAP THESE SUBS KICK BUTT!!! - Gordo 08-Jul-2004 17:49:57 (0) r Great one - Brian Owens 07-Jul-2004 11:10:37 (0)
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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Discussion Forum

Re: !!!HOLY CRAP THESE SUBS KICK BUTT!!! - jim 06-Jul-2004 23:37:14 (0) r Secret Life of Walter Mitty - djk 06-Jul-2004 14:44:16 (1) s Re: Secret Life of Walter Mitty - Corey 06-Jul-2004 18:06:09 (0) !!!Does Anyone Have The Schematics To Build A 10" Speaker!!! - Gordo 06-Jul-2004 06:15:36 (4) r Re: !!!Does Anyone Have The Schematics To Build A 10" Speaker!!! - Michael Stigall 08-Jul-2004 15:26:55 (3) s Re: !!!Does Anyone Have The Schematics To Build A 10" Speaker!!! - Gordo 08-Jul-2004 17:57:54 (2) s Re: !!!Does Anyone Have The Schematics To Build A 10" Speaker!!! - Michael Stigall 09-Jul-2004 13:58:17 (1) s Re: !!!Does Anyone Have The Schematics To Build A 10" Speaker!!! - Gordo 10-Jul-2004 00:06:44 (0) multi-driver single enclosure subwoofer - colin 05-Jul-2004 19:56:46 (2) r Re: multi-driver single enclosure subwoofer - Chris Johnson 07-Jul-2004 01:20:22 (1) s Re: multi-driver single enclosure subwoofer - Brian 10-Jul-2004 12:32:04 (0) 6th Order Bandpass Response Graphs Correct? - Philip Hebbler 05-Jul-2004 19:41:49 (4) r Re: 6th Order Bandpass Response Graphs Correct? - Brian 10-Jul-2004 12:16:02 (0) r Re: 6th Order Bandpass Response Graphs Correct? - Freq Freak 08-Jul-2004 11:26:41 (2) s Re: 6th Order Bandpass Response Graphs Correct? - philip hebbler 08-Jul-2004 17:43:22 (1) s Re: 6th Order Bandpass Response Graphs Correct? - Freq Freak 10-Jul-2004 21:29:34 (0) Woofer - (whoops) - Michael 05-Jul-2004 19:40:05 (3) r Re: Woofer - (whoops) - Corey 06-Jul-2004 17:51:07 (0) r Re: Woofer - (whoops) - Brian Owens 06-Jul-2004 13:50:02 (0) r Re: Woofer - (whoops) - HEYHEYHEY 06-Jul-2004 11:03:41 (0) subs in parallel - mike 05-Jul-2004 00:00:29 (3) r Re: Here's how I drive my two 4ohm sub drivers - Mike Cason 09-Jul-2004 18:00:42 (0) r Re: subs in parallel - Brian Owens 05-Jul-2004 19:51:56 (0) r Re: subs in parallel - Joe 05-Jul-2004 14:13:31 (0) Adire maelstrom for my next car sub - Joe 04-Jul-2004 15:29:44 (4) r Re: Adire maelstrom for my next car sub - mikeported 17-Jul-2004 00:31:47 (0) r Re: Adire maelstrom for my next car sub - Brian Owens 05-Jul-2004 19:51:48 (0) r Re: Adire maelstrom for my next car sub - Chris Johnson 05-Jul-2004 01:00:23 (1) s Re: Adire maelstrom for my next car sub - Joe 05-Jul-2004 13:42:02 (0) impedence question - Freq Freak 03-Jul-2004 20:20:56 (2) r Re: impedence question - cctrol 03-Jul-2004 23:11:21 (1) s Re: impedence question - Freq Freak 07-Jul-2004 10:17:49 (0) Which box is better? - thomas 03-Jul-2004 17:41:45 (1) r Re: Which box is better? - Brian 03-Jul-2004 17:56:51 (0) jensen 6930 - ani 01-Jul-2004 20:51:07 (1) r Jensen 6930?? - Nate-Diggidy 02-Jul-2004 22:08:17 (0) multi speaker SW - arnon 01-Jul-2004 06:19:17 (3) r Re: multi speaker SW - Pete Schumacher 01-Jul-2004 08:55:18 (2) s Re: multi speaker SW - arnon 01-Jul-2004 09:07:25 (1) s Re: multi speaker SW - Pete Schumacher 01-Jul-2004 12:14:30 (0)
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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Discussion Forum


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Tempest + 2 PR-15 performance - JeffKnob 01-Jul-2004 06:00:37 (3) r Re: Tempest + 2 PR-15 performance - Pete Schumacher 01-Jul-2004 08:52:47 (2) s Re: Tempest + 2 PR-15 performance - JeffKnob 01-Jul-2004 21:20:53 (1) s Re: Tempest + 2 PR-15 performance - Pete Schumacher 01-Jul-2004 23:04:13 (0) Enclosure volume - Derek 30-Jun-2004 00:45:28 (2) r Re: Enclosure volume - Pete Schumacher 30-Jun-2004 01:15:53 (1) s Re: Enclosure volume - Derek 30-Jun-2004 16:29:13 (0) horn-subs vs bandpass & direct-radiator - does horn always 'win'? - freddyi 29-Jun-2004 22:50:29 (2) r I agree.If u can fit a horn ... - mikeported 02-Jul-2004 03:19:14 (0) r Re: horn-subs vs bandpass & direct-radiator - does horn always 'win'? - Pete Schumacher 30-Jun-2004 01:26:18 (0) tempest sub, which amp? - eric 28-Jun-2004 06:07:19 (2) r Re: tempest sub, which amp? - Pete Schumacher 28-Jun-2004 17:56:41 (0) r Re: tempest sub, which amp? - Pete Schumacher 28-Jun-2004 17:23:09 (0) 12 inch woofer recommendations - ~gator~ 27-Jun-2004 11:00:43 (8) r Re: 12 inch woofer recommendations - Pete Schumacher 27-Jun-2004 21:41:54 (7) s Re: 12 inch woofer recommendations - ~gator~ 27-Jun-2004 23:54:06 (6) s Re: 12 inch woofer recommendations - Brian 03-Jul-2004 17:54:01 (0) s Re: 12 inch woofer recommendations - djk 28-Jun-2004 01:31:36 (4) s Re: 12 inch woofer recommendations - gator 28-Jun-2004 02:44:19 (3) s Re: 12 inch woofer recommendations - Pete Schumacher 28-Jun-2004 17:26:41 (2) s Re: 12 inch woofer recommendations - gator 29-Jun-2004 19:12:11 (1) s Re: 12 inch woofer recommendations - Pete Schumacher 30-Jun-2004 01:38:42 (0) JBL 1500 CAR SUB - thomas 26-Jun-2004 10:31:52 (1) r Not to be RUDE... - djk 26-Jun-2004 23:17:06 (0) Is this all i need? - tbone 24-Jun-2004 20:04:56 (1) r Re: Is this all i need? - mikeported 26-Jun-2004 04:09:02 (0) Re: "Raveland AXX 15" in a sealed box with Linkwitz - mikeported 29-Jun-2004 00:58:46 (0) LT - mikeported 26-Jun-2004 04:03:59 (2) r Re: LT - djk 26-Jun-2004 23:35:27 (1) s Re: LT - mikeported 29-Jun-2004 00:53:17 (0) Re: Location of the subwoofer - mikeported 26-Jun-2004 04:04:43 (0) Re: sub repair help!!!! please!! - Chris Johnson 25-Jun-2004 03:35:06 (3) r Re: sub repair help!!!! please!! - DSP-freak 05-Jul-2004 18:33:57 (2) s Re: sub repair help!!!! please!! - rotinaj13 10-Jul-2004 01:01:31 (1) s Re: sub repair help!!!! please!! - rotinaj13 16-Jul-2004 21:35:31 (0) thanks, I try to help anyone that posts qts, Vas, and Fs - norman bates 24-Jun-2004 18:24:24 (0) Re: sealed or ported - Derek 24-Jun-2004 18:24:00 (0) Re: Crossover anyone? - Mediator 27-Jun-2004 20:54:02 (1) r Re: Crossover anyone? - Brian 03-Jul-2004 17:21:38 (0) Re: #3,434,332 - Viktoras 26-Jun-2004 07:27:15 (3) r Re: #3,434,332 - Brian 26-Jun-2004 22:33:27 (2)

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/talkshop/ (5 of 6) [26-07-04 04:16:51 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Discussion Forum

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Re: #3,434,332 - Viktoras 27-Jun-2004 12:10:41 (1) s Re: #3,434,332 - mikeported 28-Jun-2004 10:11:39 (0) Re: blown speaker? - david 01-Jul-2004 06:00:56 (0) Re: Volfenhag 12 inch sub - Gordo 06-Jul-2004 06:16:02 (0)
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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/talkshop/ (6 of 6) [26-07-04 04:16:51 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page - Discussion Forum - Post Message

The Subwoofer DIY Page - Discussion Forum


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Before you post your question!

1. Use the Search facility to determine if someone's previously posted a question similar to yours.
You might find that your question has been answered before - on a number of occasions!

2. Include relevant information, such as the t/s parameters of the driver that you're trying to use.

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Rules of Engagement Please do not use this forum to post any material which is knowingly false and/or defamatory, abusive, vulgar, hateful, obscene, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, or otherwise violative of any law. Do not post any copyrighted material unless the copyright is owned by you. The owner of this forum reserves the right to remove any messages posted, and to reveal your identity (or whatever information we know about you) in the event of a complaint or legal action arising from any message posted by you. By posting your message, you agree to indemnify the owners, employees, agents and representatives of this website and to hold them harmless from any and all claims and liabilities (including attorneys fees) resulting from any material posted to this forum, or from any acts resulting from participants' use of this forum. So please keep it clean! Brian Steele webmaster, ow+up www.diysubwoofers.org

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[ The Subwoofer DIY Page - Discussion Forum ] [FAQ ] Generated by: TalkRec 1.17 BETA Last Updated: 10-Jan-2004 18:06:08, 82428 Bytes Author: Brian Steele

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Subject First DIY Subwoofer, Some Questions active xover with equalization Re: Subwoofer repair help Mind Reader ? KFC ? wow, i have no idea, NO SPECS = NO HELP box design for kfc-w2500 Re: Wadding in ported cabinets Re: 4Th Bandpass Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube Re: Shiva woes Re: Good Looing PR. Re: Crown Amps Good Looing PR. Shiva woes Re: Build Something n Listen Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube Build Something n Listen Re: Air flow noise in reflex tube

Posted By thetubeguy1954 mike Amos Newsome djk djk norman bates Eugene Goyena Brian Brian paulspencer2002 MadMan Pete Schumacher Pete Schumacher BWRX sai Brock Pete Schumacher paulspencer2002 sai Freq Freak

Date 25-JUL-2004 12:38:54 25-JUL-2004 01:42:20 24-JUL-2004 21:04:59 24-JUL-2004 16:40:51 24-JUL-2004 16:01:29 24-JUL-2004 09:44:28 24-JUL-2004 09:44:21 24-JUL-2004 00:01:06 23-JUL-2004 23:59:45 23-JUL-2004 07:00:04 23-JUL-2004 06:18:42 23-JUL-2004 01:41:35 23-JUL-2004 01:24:16 23-JUL-2004 01:08:40 22-JUL-2004 23:00:13 22-JUL-2004 22:43:11 22-JUL-2004 10:09:33 22-JUL-2004 04:32:35 22-JUL-2004 02:37:41 21-JUL-2004 22:02:54

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[The Subwoofer DIY Page] [ The Subwoofer DIY Page - Discussion Forum ] [ FAQ ] Generated by: TalkRec 1.17 BETA Last Updated: 10-Jan-2004 18:06:08, 82428 Bytes Author: Brian Steele

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The Subwoofer DIY Page Discussion Forum FAQ

The Subwoofer DIY Page Discussion Forum FAQ


Author: Brian Steele Last Updated: December 06, 2002

How should I use this forum?

Please use this forum to post any questions you've got regarding the design, construction or use of subwoofers. However, I suggest that you follow the steps given below.

1. Check the Subwoofer DIY FAQ: many of the most common


questions are answered in the FAQ. 2. If you can't find an answer for your question in the FAQ, then have a read through the pages on the main site - all major designs are discussed here. 3. If you can find an answer for your question on the main site, then use the forum's Search facility to determine if someone's previously posted a question similar to yours. You might find that your question has been answered before - on a number of occasions, and regular posters to the forum may be reluctant to answer it once again. 4. When posting a question concerning a design for a particular driver, please ensure that you include relevant information, such as the driver's t/s parameters. These parameters define the driver's characteristics, and are used to determine what type of alignment best suits the driver.

Rules of Engagement Please do not use this forum to post any material which is knowingly false and/or defamatory, abusive, vulgar, hateful, obscene, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, or otherwise violative of any law. Do not post any copyrighted material unless the copyright is owned by you. The owner of this forum reserves the right to remove any messages posted, and to reveal your identity (or whatever information we know about you) in the event of a complaint or legal action arising from any message posted by you. By posting your message, you agree to indemnify the owners, employees, agents and representatives of this website and to hold them harmless from any and all claims and liabilities (including attorneys fees) resulting from any material posted to this forum, or from any acts resulting from participants' use of this forum. So please keep it clean! Brian Steele

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The Subwoofer DIY Page Discussion Forum FAQ

webmaster, ow+up www.diysubwoofers.org

What software does this forum use?

This forum uses TalkShop, a collection of Perl scripts that started off life as Matt Wright's WWWBoard v2.0, but a considerable number of features have since been added by the webmaster

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/forumfaq.htm (2 of 2) [26-07-04 04:16:59 a.m.]

First DIY Subwoofer, Some Questions

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1


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Date: July 25, 2004 at 12:38:54 From: thetubeguy1954, [accelerate.att.net] Subject: First DIY Subwoofer, Some Questions URL: Single Ended Triodes

I need help of the people with knowledge of building a fairly highend DIY subwoofer. First a little about the system it will be used in. My amplifier is a 150LB, Italian designed, integrated SET, called the Mastersound Reference 845. The source is an Audiomeca KEOPS CD Player. Interconnects are Z-Squared Au/Au (a gold/silver/copper alloy, that's the best I've heard and a real sleeper-check Audiogon) Speakerwire (my weak link) Nordost Blue Heaven and lastly my speakers are Aliante Pinafarina Ones ( a small 2-way Italian monitor, think Sonus Faber) Ok now that you know the system they'll be used in, let me state that I'm look for speed, transparency, detail, slam and the ability to integrate fairly seemlessly with my Aliantes. Now the subwoofer qusetions. I'm wanting a Watt/Puppy type of setup with the Aliantes on top of the subs so.... 1) Should I go with: a)a single driver? If so, a 10" 12" 15" or 18" 2) Dual drivers, if so one over the other or isobarik? size of drivers used? 3) How do I a choose material of driver? Poly, Aluminum, Magnisium, Ceramic etc? 4) Any suggestions for enclosure type and links to designs/plans? 5) Recommendations for a specific driver? If so, why this driver?

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First DIY Subwoofer, Some Questions

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The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Passive Radiator Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Passive Radiator Systems


last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

Passive radiator systems are very similar in operation to ported systems. However, instead of a port, the passive radiator system uses a passive radiator (also known as a "drone cone") to extend the system's low frequency response. The response of a passive radiator system is similar to that of a ported system using the same driver. However, the cutoff (-3dB) frequency is slightly higher, and the cutoff slope is deeper, mostly due to the presence of a "notch" in the frequency response corresponding to the passive radiator's resonance frequency. However, this notch is normally located far outside of the passband of the system, and therefore usually of little audible significance. The larger the passive radiator, the lower the passive radiator's resonance frequency (for the same target Fb), and the further the notch is out of the passband.

my home page

To design a passive radiator alignment, start with a simple ported alignment using that driver that provides the desired box size and frequency response. Then, use the diameter of your chosen passive radiator as the "port diameter", and use this to calculate the required port length. Work out the volume occupied by this port and then use this to calculate the mass of air occupied by this port. The result is the required mass of the passive radiator. If it is too small, use a larger passive radiator and repeat the calculations. Example: Driver: Vas: 2 cu.ft. Qts: 0.30

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prd/ (1 of 3) [26-07-04 04:17:05 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Passive Radiator Systems

Fs: 30 Hz Diameter: 8 in. Ported Alignment (QB3): Vb = 0.70 cu.ft. Fb = 39.4 Hz Now, we need to select an appropriately-sized passive radiator. ALWAYS use a passive radiator that is larger in diameter than the active driver, as the displacement of the passive radiator usually has to be 1.5 to 2 times that of the driver. If it's not possible to use one large passive radiator, then you can use two or more smaller ones, and tune them by working out the effective diameter from the combined surface area of the radiators. Note that the effective diameter of the radiator is approximately equivalent to the diameter of the passive radiator's face plus 1/3 of the surround. If unsure, use the quoted Sd for that radiator, then use the following equation to determine the effective radius: R = (Sd/PI)^0.5 In this case, we choose to use a passive radiator that has an effective radius of 5 inches (roughly corresponding to a "12-inch" passive radiator). "Port" Radius = 5 in. Required Port Length = 186.1 in. "Port" Volume = (PI*R^2)*h = (3.14 *5^2)*186.1 = 14609 cu.in. = 8.45 cu.ft. = 0.2393 m^3 Mass = "Port" Volume * Density of Air = 0.2393 * 1.21 = 0.289553 kg = 290 g The passive radiator therefore has to have a weight of 290g. To achieve this, start with a passive radiator with lower mass, then add weight to make up the difference. To measure the resonance frequency of the passive radiator, install it in a free-air baffle (e.g. the box it's going in, without the driver in place), then hold a driver, driven by a sine wave generator, as close as possible to the passive radiator, then vary the frequency. At the passive radiator's resonance frequency, you should see the greatest peak to peak excursion of the passive radiator. Like their ported cousins, passive radiator systems are much more sensitive to misaligned parameters than sealed enclosure systems, which makes their construction more difficult for the beginning DIYer. I advise that you don't attempt to build these systems, unless you're certain that the T/S parameters for the driver that you want to use are correct.
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prd/ (2 of 3) [26-07-04 04:17:05 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Passive Radiator Systems

Almost any driver can be used in a passive enclosure system, however, only drivers which have a Qts value between 0.2 to 0.5 will generally give satisfactory results. If the driver has a Qts above 0.4, try using it in a sealed enclosure or single reflex bandpass system instead. Passive Radiator System projects on the internet
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John Janowitz's Thunder 12 Dual PR subwoofer Louis Lung's Shiva/PR subwoofer Adrian Mack's Peerless PR subwoofer Rob Lloyd's Shiva/PR subwoofer

My thanks to Tom Danley and Deon Bearden of the DIY Loudspeakers Mailing List for providing these guidelines for designing Passive Radiators systems.

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prd/ (3 of 3) [26-07-04 04:17:05 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Transmission Line Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Transmission Line Systems


last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

The transmission line system is a waveguide system in which the guide reverses the phase of the driver's rear output, thereby reinforcing the frequencies near the driver's Fs. Transmission lines tend to be larger than the other systems, due to the size and length of the line required by the design. The payoff is an extended low end response and a characteristic sound that's appealing to many. Usually, only drivers which have low Qts (0.25 - 0.4) , Qes (0.3 - 0.4) and Fs values are suitable for transmission line systems. Transmission Line resources and projects on the internet:

Design Notes my home page

Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design


note: different nomenclature used on the above site translation as follows: fd = Fs Qes = Qes Qmd = Qms Qtd = Qts Vd = Vas

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Transmission Line Speakers Bob Brine's Speaker Stuff The Perfectionist Audio Subwoofer

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/tls/ [26-07-04 04:17:07 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY page v1.1 - Transmission Line Systems: Design Notes

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Transmission Line Systems : Design Notes
last updated: 06 August 2003
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Subwoofer DIY v1.1

*** UNDER CONSTRUCTION *** Choosing the driver: To contruct a transmission line system, you first need to start with a suitable driver. Suitable drivers have a fairly high Qms (3 to 6), a fairly low Qes (0.30 to 0.40) and a correspondingly low Qts (0.30 - 0.40). Experienced transmission line builders normally stick to a few brands and models of drivers that are known to work well in this type of application.

Transmission Line systems my home page

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/tls/tls1.htm [26-07-04 04:17:08 a.m.]

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Dipole Bass Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1


Dipole Bass Systems
last updated: 01 February 2004
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The Subwoofer DIY Page

Dipole subwoofers are quite different to the other subwoofer systems described on this site because of the way they treat the the driver's output. Your typical subwoofer driver produces sound from both the front and the rear of the cone, and the output from the rear is out of phase with the output from the front, which results in very reduced response levels, unless the rear wave is treated in some fashion. The other subwoofer systems described on this site all employ some means of dealing with the driver's rear radiation to improve overall low frequency response, the result being a "monopole" bass system that theoretically has the same response characteristics in all directions. However, for dipole bass systems, the rear radiation is left untreated, and instead the overall response of the system is adjusted by varying the size of the baffle and the "Q" of the system to achieve the best overall response characteristics. Driver Characteristics The drivers used in dipole systems tend to be quite different to those in "monopole" bass systems. The driver's Qts tends to be particularly high (in some cases, as high as 2.0), the idea being to introduce a "bump" in the driver's frequency response around Fs that will compensate for the 6dB/oct rolloff in the response that will occur when the driver is mounted in an open baffle. Alternatively, a "normal" driver can be used in a dipole bass system, but a considerable amount of equalization may have to be used to make up for the loss in low frequency performance. Response Characteristics A dipole bass system has a "figure of eight" response pattern, which is entirely different to the "spherical" response pattern of your typical "monopole" subwoofer. The system's output is most powerful directly in front and behind the baffle, and decreases to zero at the sides, where the front and rear waveforms cancel each other. This response characteristic is said to be one of the major advantages of a dipole bass system, as the restricted dispersion results in fewer boundary reflections, which in turn is supposed to result in a smoother in-room response. Drawbacks Dipole bass systems tend to be rather large, employing multiple drivers, primarily to make up for the output reduction due to the 6dB/oct baffle loss. This is not the type of system to use if you've got a small living room, and it's certainly not suitable for car audio! Baffle Size The response of the system will be affected by a 6dB/oct drop in output below a particular frequency referred to as Fequal, that's directly dependent on the size of the baffle. At Fequal, the magnitude response (SPL) of the baffled driver will be the same as its infinite baffle response. Above Fequal, the response will rise to a 6dB peak at Fpeak (approximately equal to 3*Fequal),

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Dipole Bass Design dipole.xls, v1.8 Audio DIY Projects Audio DIY Links Discussion Forum

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Dipole Bass Systems

and at higher frequencies, the response will depend largely on the shape of the baffle. A completely circular baffle will produce the worse response characteristics, with deep nulls at multiples of Fpeak. The following table demonstrates the relation between the baffle's effective diameter (i.e. the diameter of a circular baffle that has the same radius as the smallest dimension of the baffle), Fpeak, and Fequal: Speed of sound, c=344 m/s Diameter (metres) 0.43 0.57 1.15 1.43 1.56 1.72 Fp (Hz) 800 600 300 240 220 200 Fe (Hz) 267 200 100 80 73 67

From the table, it's plain to see that it's nearly impossible to push Fequal much lower than 80 Hz unless a fairly large baffle is used. The tradeoff here is efficiency; the smaller the baffle, the lower the final efficiency of the dipole system. OTOH, the larger the baffle, the higher the efficiency, but response at the upper end of the passband could get somewhat irregular as Fpeak is reduced. Almost all dipole bass designs incorporate some means of boosting the response at low frequencies to compensate for the baffle loss. Typically one or more of the following methods are used:

1. A high-Q driver is employed (the high Q results in a peak in the


driver's free-air response at its resonance frequency).

2. The Q of the system is increased by employing a series resistor (Qes is


increased, which results in an increase in Qts).

3. Active equalization is used to boost the low frequency response. 4. Active or line-level filtering is used to cut the higher frequency levels
to match the low frequency response.

Related Links:
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Linkwitz Lab Phoenix - Dipole Woofer John Forasiepi's Dipole Bass subwoofers Geert Meddens' Contrapunt subwoofer

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Dipole Bass Systems

Special thanks to the following for corrections, links and other assistance with this page: Claude Dickson John L. Murphy Further References:
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R.J Newman, "Dipole Radiator Systems", JAES Jan/Feb 1980 Linkwitz Lab - Models for a dipole loudspeaker design

Brian Steele 01 February 2004

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Dipole Bass Systems

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1


Dipole Bass Systems: Dipole Design
last updated: 06 August 2003
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The Subwoofer DIY Page

Design Example Let's say we want to build a dipole bass system using four 12" drivers with the following specifications: Vas: 164 litres., Fs=30Hz, Qts=1.10, Qes=1.30, Qms=7.0, R=8 ohms, Xmax=8mm, Sd=0.0547m^2 . To maximize efficiency, the drivers will be wired in parallel, giving an effective Re of 2 ohms. We also want to know what SPL levels we can expect if we drive the system with 100W of power. We decide to use a baffle with an effective diameter of 1.35m.

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Dipole Bass Systems dipole.xls, v1.8 Audio DIY Projects Audio DIY Links Discussion Forum

From this, Fpeak and Fequal can be calculated: Fpeak = c/(D) Fpeak = 344/1.35 Fpeak = 255 Hz Fequal = Fpeak/3 Fequal = 265/3 Fequal = 87 Hz We can model the baffle loss by using a spreadsheet that I put together for the purpose, called dipole.xls. The spreadsheet's simulation is accurate enough for our use below Fpeak. Above Fpeak, the response of the system is greatly influenced by the shape of the baffle, so no attempt is made here to include it in the simulation. Below is shown the estimated response curve for the given driver mounted in the stated baffle:

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Dipole Bass Systems

To compensate for the 6dB/oct rollof, we select to do two things: increase the Qts of the system to 1.75 to flatten the low end response, and use a line-level or active 18dB/oct LP filter at around 80Hz to reduce the high frequency response. The effect of the increase in Qts can be seen in the graph below:

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The graph below illustrates the effects of an 78Hz 18dB/oct filter on the response:

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Dipole Bass Systems

As can be seen from the graph above, the increase in Qts and the addition of the filter will produce an on-axis frequency response that extends from 28Hz to 90Hz, 0,-3dB. To increase the Qts to the target value, we can use a series resistor Rs, and calculate its value as follows: Qes'=Qts'*Qms/(Qms-Qts') Qes' = 1.75*7/(7-1.75) Qes' = 12.25/5.25 Qes' = 2.33 Rs = Re*(Qes'-Qes)/Qes Rs = 2*(2.33-1.30)/1.30 Rs = 2*1.03/1.30 Rs = 1.6 ohms As we plan to drive the system with 100W of power, assuming 10:1 differences between average and peak levels, we can use a 10W or greater resistor for Rs. As the total resistance, Rs+Re, will be 3.6 ohms, the amplifier will have to be capable of driving at least a 3.6 ohm load. There will also be an efficiency gain as we're using 4 drivers, and an efficiency loss because of the baffle loss and the filtering. These need to be taken into consideration when working out the final efficiency of the system. Efficiency We are using FOUR of these drivers in parallel. By using four drivers this way, the resulting efficiency will be 12dB higher than the reference efficiency for one driver. However, there will be some insertion loss because of the use of a resistor to increase Qts. In this case, dipole.xls predicts that the efficiency will be reduced by about 2.6dB.

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/measure.htm

Subwoofer response - what's important?


Brian Steele - 22nd July 1997, Updated 14th February 1998

NOTE: Before embarking on a subwoofer design with a frequency response that's accurate to 0.1dB within its passband, you might want to consider the following information! In order of importance, I'd say that the following factors play a major role in the response of a subwoofer:
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Your Listening Room Your room is going to play a MAJOR role in the final response of your subwoofer, more so than slight variations in cabinet size, port length or other factors directly affecting the design. If your room displays horrible resonance problems in the bass region, then no amount of tweaking the subwoofer's output will help you - you need to fix the room! Further on down this page, I will illustrate this fact by actual response measurements done with a listening room with definite resonance problems. Positioning The position of your subwoofer in your listening room is going to have a major impact on the the results you get at your normal listening position. Experiment by using different positions for your subwoofer and you'll see what I mean. You'll probably find that the best positions for your subwoofer are either (a) in a corner of the room, or (b) right next to your seat. Output Level / Power Handling Better subwoofers are capable of higher, undistorted levels than inferior ones. Distortion We are less sensitive to distortion in the bass frequencies than elsewhere in the audio spectrum, but it is still important to minimize distortion as much as possible in subwoofer design as our ears are less sensitive to the lower bass frequencies. For example, at a fundamental frequency of 15 Hz, 20% third harmonic distortion will probably be more audible than the fundamental itself. I suspect that a good number of claims made about the audibility of transient response (see below) in a subwoofer can actually attributed to the subwoofer's distortion characteristics. Frequency Response Important of course, but as far as I'm concerned, not as important as the previous characteristics. A subwoofer that supposedly has an excellent frequency response will sound crappy in a room that has bad resonance problems there is no way around this. 1dB variations in response will be completely masked by the effects of the room. Transient Response Probably the least important of the characteristics that define the response of a subwoofer. The average person is unable to discern differences in transient response in the bass region, up to about 18ms, and that's assuming a perfect listening environment. In a normal environment, the other characteristics measured above will take precedence.

Room Response
To show the major effect that your listening room would have on the final result you get from your subwoofer, I've illustrated below some measurements of my "El Uglito" 4th order bandpass system in my present listening room, which displays horrible resonance problems at 40 Hz and other frequencies. Thankfully, I'll be moving to a different house in a few months, but then again I'll have another listening room to deal with!

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The picture above shows a recording I made of a 40 Hz signal at various playback stages in the following setup:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Dell XPS P120c - Pentium 120 with 48 MB of RAM SoundBlaster AWE32 with CoolEdit 96 (signal generator) Realistic Analog Sound Level Meter (used for recording) Denon PMA-250II Integrated Amplifier (25Wx2) Home-built 4th order bandpass system ( two 6.5" drivers, F3~53 Hz)) System placed near to one corner of my listening room.

The actual WAV file is located that the following address: measure.wav The first part of the signal is the original signal, a single 40 Hz sine wave pulse created using CoolEdit. The second part of the signal is the result I got when I hooked the line-in and line-out connections for the SoundBlaster AWE32 together, and then played back and recorded the signal using two copies of CoolEdit. The resulting waveform shows the effect of the input and output sections of the AWE32 on the original 40 Hz signal. The third part of the signal is the result I got when I inserted the amplifier's line-in and tape-out connections into the loop, and demonstrates the effects of the amplifier's preamplification section on the signal. There is very little difference between this and the second part of the recording - as it should be with all good amplifiers. The fourth part of the signal is the result I got when I hooked the 4th order bandpass system to the amplifier, and recorded the results using the Sound Level Meter hooked into the line-in connection for the SoundBlaster card. The close-miked method was used for the recording to minimize room effects (the microphone was placed directly in front of the port). The resulting signal is quite different to the input, but guess what - the difference isn't very audible (check by listening to the actual recording, using the link given above). In interesting thing to note here is that the signal decays at about 52 Hz - the resonance frequency of the drivers used in this design. The final part of the signal is the result I got using the same configuration above, but this time the Sound Level Meter was placed out in the room away from the 4th order bandpass system. The room in question has very bad standing wave problems, and the results show up in the recorded signal.

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It is this final signal that's the most important here, as it basically shows that the effect of the room on the original signal is far greater than the effect of the sound generator, amplifier, or speaker on the signal. Food for thought when you're designing your sub to meet a required frequency response to the nearest 0.1 or even 1 dB - the room is going to have a far greater effect on what you hear than a 1dB variation in the frequency response of the subwoofer. 14th February 1998 The picture below is an FFT analysis of the room response (the last section of the picture above). Each horizontal line represents a 12dB interval. Note the huge peaks at 26 Hz, 43 Hz and 66 Hz? Those are caused by room modes. The 66 Hz mode is caused by the ceiling in the room, which is 8.5 feet high. The other modes are caused by the room's length and width. There is also some funny stuff happening in the 90120 Hz region, but the effects on the overall response are considerably less than what's being caused low down in the audio spectrum. In fact, any speaker that goes much below 70 Hz can be expected to excite these room modes, with perhaps horrendous results. As part of my next audio project, I will be attempting to tame these room modes, by using bass traps in each corner of the room. I expect to get much better bass response once the room modes are tamed somewhat.

Brian Steele 14th February 1998 Visit the Subwoofer DIY Page at www.diysubwoofers.org

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Suggested modifications for the Basswave amplifier

Suggested Modifications for the JBL "Bass Wave" amplifier


last updated: 4th October 1997

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Audio DIY Projects Subwoofer DIY v1.1 my home page

The JBL "Bass Wave" amplifier


The JBL "Bass Wave" amplifier is a small 100-watt amplifier with built-in active filter with a single-pole high-pass at 10 Hz combined with a single-pole lowpass at 85 Hz.. It costs an amazingly low $50 US. It also comes with line and speaker-level inputs and a volume control for level-matching, and an "auto signal sensing power switch". It also features reasonable build quality. However, it is not an "audiophile" or even hifi-quality amplifier - a few corners have been cut in the design in order to keep the price so low. However, it may be possible to improve it a bit with a few tweaks.

So, what's "wrong"?


Ok, so what's wrong with the Basswave? Well, I've got some of the "faults" listed below:

1. The Bass Wave amplifier uses a "class-B" output stage. Most audio amplifiers use a
"class-AB" output stage because class-B circuits are prone to crossover distortion, which audibly affects the output at low volumes. The notch distorion may show as a fuzziness or raspy character at very low levels. Note that this is of less consequence in a subwoofer design, as the effect is less noticeable at low frequencies, and how many times have you listened to a subwoofer at low volumes? 2. The output devices in the Bass Wave amplifier are used in a common collector configuration. While this raises the voltage gain of the stages (and is a cheap way to save parts), it also raises the output impedance, which in turn reduces the current dumping and damping factor of the amplifier. The voltage gain should come from the driver stage of the amplifier, not the output devices. (Correction - Jason Cuadra says that it is a composite 2 stage common emitter with local feedback set by R31 and R30, setting gain to 10). 3. There is no short-circuit protection in the output stage of the Bass Wave amplifier. 4. Power output seems a bit low for a subwoofer amplifier. The schematic for the Bass Wave amplifer is available at the following locations: ftp://ftp.spiceisle.com/upload/basslist/basswave.zip - (Postscript) Bill Wilson of the DIY Loudspeakers List described the circuit design of the Bass Wave amplifier as follows in message to the List (which I've edited slightly here): " A low pass input network feeds the main amplifier which is a LF347 op amp driving a modified darlington current amplifer which is wired to also give voltage gain. The LF347 is a nice op amp with gain bandwidth product of 4 Mhz and FET inputs. There is no quiescent current biasing of the output transistors. The bases of the 1st stage output transistors (TIP31C and TIP32C) are copper bound to each other giving 1.2 volts of crossover distortion. There are no emitter resistors anywhere, not even in the 2nd stage TIP35C/TIP36C emitters. As far as driving 4 ohms go, the TIP35C/TIP36C transistors have

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Suggested modifications for the Basswave amplifier

the current rating to handle this but I don't know about the power supply. There are 4700uF capacitors filtering the rectified DC and I would want to load test the transformer before feeling safe about it. There is a thermistor on the heat sink wired to an op-amp comparator which will shut the amp down at some temperature, but note that there is no short circuit protection on the output transistors. There is an audio signal detection circuit that drives the front panel LED, but the power amp insided is not powered down, just the LED. "

Modifications (proposed):
Listed below are some modifications to the amplifier that have been PROPOSED by members of the DIY Loudspeakers list. These modifications have not actually been tried out, but they do sound good enough for consideration:
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Jason Cuadra: " To increase output current capability, double up the filter caps, change to beefier rectifiers. ( a la 5A 200V ) and double the output transistors(in parallel), but with an emitter resistor for each one of about 0.1 ohm, to make them share current. To bias it into class AB would require re-designing the whole stage: It would require an additional 2 power resistors, 2 smaller resistors, 2 constant current sources each made of 2 transistors and a resistor, and a VBE multiplier stage made of a transistors and 2 resistors; reducing the gain of the output stage (from 10 to 3 or 4), and re-checking the feedback loop stability. " This is a circuit showing some of the some mods I talked about, with the addition of current limiting / short cct protection, and this is another circuit showing the actual modifications to be made to the amplifier. Warning, the short circuit protection scheme is untested. It may oscillate during over current conditions or may not be set to a low enough current to protect the output devices. For short circuit protection, emitter resistors ought to be more like 0.15 ohms each. Current limit in each output device will be set to 0.7V / 0.15 ohms, or about 5A each. Additional transsistors to do the current limiting can be TIP31A and TIP32A like the driver transistors. Richard Hall: (see diagram of modified circuit for reference) " This is just a change of the design as I would start IF I owned one. The resistor valuse are pure guesstimations. As I have no data books on hand and do not have one of these amps, I can only pick values from other similar designs. But the point being that this approach should fix the lack of proper biasing on the amp. Also there is an additonal supression network on the output to keep things from oscillating in the event that the amp should show any sign of instability. R1003/R1005 give a little bit of stability to the drivers by inducing a small amount of feedback into the stage and help to stabilize the biasing. The diodes should be insulated and mounted on the heatsink. I place heatshrink tube on the leads, dip them in epoxy to cover the diode and the leads at the body and them let it set until soft and moldable, then stick them to the heatsink to form a flat spot on them for better heat transfer. When the epoxy has setup hard, I put some Wakefield compound on the flatside and then clamp them down with a small spring clip. The bias pot should be adjusted in the center and should get about 20-30 ma. across R1008. The value of the pot should work out to something in the 250-500 ohm range... maybe as low as 100 ohm. If the fine adjustment is not needed/wanted, then leave the pot out, in which case the final current gain to the drivers is set by the R1001/R1006 pair. As I do not know what type of current gain is needed in these stages/transistors, these values may be off by a fair margin. I would not play with this without a variac or adjustable power supply to bring the amp up slowly to monitor the output current. If someone has balls, (grin), they may want to just use some small value fuses... like 1 Amp. The circuit changes should be fine. Again the final value of the bias pot and the resistors R1001/R1006 are total a guess. But with some experimenting the correct values

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Suggested modifications for the Basswave amplifier

should be fairly easy to figure "

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/wavemod.gif

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/basswav3.gif

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/basswave-21.jpg

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Car Audio Subwoofer Design and Construction

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1


Car Audio Subwoofer Design and Construction
last updated: 06 August 2003
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The Subwoofer DIY Page Sealed systems Ported systems Passive Radiator Systems 4th Order Bandpass systems 6th Order Bandpass systems Transmission Line systems The final touches! Search this site Audio DIY Projects Audio DIY Links Discussion Forum

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Designing and building a car audio subwoofer is in some ways very similar to designing a subwoofer for your home, and in some ways very different. This page attempts to discuss the design and construction of car audio subwoofer systems. Why should I build a car audio subwoofer? The reasons for building a subwoofer for your car remain the same as the reasons for building one for your home: typically the main loudspeakers, which in car audio systems are usually 4"-6.5" drivers mounted in the front doors or in the dash, are simply not capable of reproducing the lower bass frequencies cleanly at any significant volume. If these loudspeakers are relieved from trying to play the lower bass frequencies, they will sound better at higher volume levels. And, as is the case with home subwoofers, a car audio subwoofer can be located anwhere within the listening area, though the car's trunk usually ends up as the final location for the subwoofer for practical reasons. What type of system should I use? As with home audio systems, there are five basic types of subwoofers systems that can be used: sealed, ported, bandpass, passive radiator and transmission line systems. However, the best type of subwoofer system for in-car use is usually the sealed system, as (1) the box size requirements are usually the lowest for sealed systems, and (2) the 12dB/oct rolloff of a sealed system is a perfect match for the free 12dB/octave rise in response below 60~80 Hz that you get in a car because of cabin gain. The combination of these two conditions typically produces a frequency response curve that remains flat almost to DC (0 Hz). Most sealed systems designed for car audio use employ a Qtc of 0.80.9, to minimize box size requirements and maximize power handling, while still providing acceptable results. What about the other systems? The other systems can be used to create a car audio subwoofer, but the parameters of the design will have to be adjusted to compensate for cabin gain. In other words, the box calculations given on this site for these systems should not be used when designing a subwoofer for your car. The design spreadsheets provided on this site can be used to model the effects of cabin gain on ported and bandpass systems, and you can therefore use them to create a ported or bandpass system to match your car's characteristics. Typically, a ported system designed for car audio use has a smaller box size requirement and lower resonance frequency than a ported system for home audio use using the same driver. In the case of bandpass systems for car audio use, the front chamber ends up being larger and the resonance frequency ends up being higher. In both cases, the aim is to produce the flattest response when cabin gain is taken

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Car Audio Subwoofer Design and Construction

into consideration.

Displayed above are the predicted frequency response curves for two systems designed for car audio use, using a driver with the following parameters: Vas: 68 litres, Fs: 35 Hz, Qts: 0.47. The red curve indicates the predicted anechoic response of a sealed system (Vb=25 litres, Qb=0.91) using this driver. The dashed red line indicates the predicted incar frequency response of this system. The effects of an 80 Hz 12dB/oct filter are also included. The blue curve indicates the predicted anechoic response of a ported system (Vb=25 litres, Fb=33.5 Hz) using this driver, and the dashed blue curve indicates the predicted in-car frequency response of this alignment. Again, the effects of an 80 Hz 12dB/oct filter are included. As can be seen from the graph, the curves are very similar; the primary advantage of using this particular ported system is the reduced excursion requirements to produce the same SPL within the system's passband. What should I look for in a car audio subwoofer driver? The most important characteristics for a car audio subwoofer driver are (1) box size requirements, (2) Peak linear SPL capability, (3) price, and (4) behaviour at excursions over Xmax (e.g. does it overload gracefully, or does it start making really ugly noises). The first two you can get from the driver's T/S parameters. Unfortunately, the last one you can only find out by listening to the driver when mounted in an appropriately-sized box. Related Sites:

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Car Audio Subwoofer Design and Construction
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Auto Cabin Gain Measurements - John Janowitz / Deon Bearden A collection of car audio subwoofer response curves, demonstrating the "cabin gain" effect.

Brian Steele 06 August 2003

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Search

The Subwoofer DIY Page Search Page


last updated: 01 February, 2004
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Sealed systems Ported systems Passive Radiator systems 4th Order Bandpass systems 6th Order Bandpass systems Transmission Line systems Dipole Bass systems The final touches! Car Audio Subwoofers Subwoofer Integration DUMAX tests Search this site Audio DIY Projects Audio DIY Links Site statistics Discussion Forum my home page

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Subwoofer Integration

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 Subwoofer Integration


last updated: 27 May 2002

Subwoofer DIY v1.1 - Discussion Forum - Projects - Links Related web sites (external): A Hsu Subwoofer with a RD75 Dipole System (John Whittaker) The placement of a subwoofer (By Ingvar hman, translated by Per Arne Almeflo) Optimum frequency response curves in the bass range (By Ingvar hman, translated by Per Arne Almeflo)

Recently, someone pointed out something that was missing from my web pages about subwoofer design - methods and techniques used by people to successfully integrate subwoofers into their audio systems. As this is as much a subjective field as an objective one, I asked members of the DIY Loudspeakers List to let me know about their methods they use to integrate subwoofers with their systems. The following details some of the answers I received, and my own methods. Note: I don't necessarily agree with some of the methods detailed below, apart from my own! If you'd like to add your own experiences or methods to this page, please contact me via e-mail. First, my own method: Ideally, your main speakers should be capable of performing down to below 80 Hz, the point at which at which it's best to cross over to a single subwoofer, to avoid aberrations in the low bass response. The crossover ideally should be an active system, however you can rely on the natural rolloff of the main speakers if they are small. Normally, the best response is obtained when the subwoofer is located in or near a corner, typically one that is located to the rear of the listening position - experiment to find the best location for the subwoofer in your room, the one that gives the smoothest sounding response without boomy effects. Use a separate amplifier to drive the subwoofer, and adjust its volume level to the point where you just start to hear the effect of the subwoofer during normal music playback. If you follow these steps, you should end up with a system that has a smooth response way down into the low bass frequencies - if your subwoofer is up to the job! I've detailed my present subwoofer/satellite configuration at the page below: http://www.diysubwoofers.org/misc/subsat.htm John Whittaker (DIY Loudspeakers List) John sent me a complete description of some tests he made with a Hsu subwoofer and his RD75 dipole speakers. Conrad Drake (DIY Loudspeakers List) "Well, IMHO, the "best" way is with a spl meter and a set up CD (such as the Chesky one). Alternately, guesstimate the roll-off point of the mains; play some full-blown piano; start with the sub turned right down & turn it up until you can _just_ start to here it. Then turn it back down a notch. I guess that's the two standard ways to get to first base with a basic system." Jan Nielson (DIY Loudspeakers List)

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Subwoofer Integration

"My experience with sub-woofer(s) can be expressed quite clearly: Use 2 not 1 Use the lowest possible XO - I would recommend 50-80 Hz. You must have some kind of continious variable phase correction to make the sub/sattelite systems work together through the XO-point." John Janowitz (DIY Loudspeakers List) "Well, using the parapix amp, you have some flexibility. It has the RCA inputs if you have that on your reciever, or it has the speaker level inputs, and the speaker level outputs too. I've put one into my main system, and one into a little bookshelf system. You should mention something about using a sub with the different types of inputs." Richard Greene Here's my advice:

1. Use low-pass filters that sharply restrict output over 80Hz. -- a


frequency response down at least 24dB at 150Hz. will make your subwoofer sonically invisible almost 100% of the time = easier integration with main speakers. That means: 24dB/octave low-pass filter -- crossover frequency up to 80Hz. 18dB/octave low-pass filter -- crossover frequency up to 60Hz. 12dB/octave low-pass filter -- crossover frequency up to 40Hz. Place your subwoofer in a room corner for maximum output and minimum harmonic distortion. If walls or the floor near the subwoofer rattle, use cement patio slabs leaning on the wall(s) ... or under the subwoofer (down-firing) ... or extending in front of the subwoofer (forward-firing) Fight standing waves with bass traps in each corner and/or a parametric equalizer such as the inexpensive Behringer Feedback Destroyer Measure (or listen to) the results from your listening position using a slow sine wave sweep such as track 5 on the Stryke.com Basszone test CD (slow sweeps fully excite room standing waves) Try to quiet everything that rattles in your house when playing the slow sweep tone

2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

David Kiwerski I have home-built satellite speakers (MCM 8" shielded woofer, Pioneer soft dome tweeter and a Vifa aluminum tweeter) and an HSU clone sub (24"dia X 22"h) with and Audio Concepts DV-12. The crossovers are Marchand kits set for 45Hz. The satellites are about 1.5 cu'(approx 24"h x 12"w x 18"d), 1.5" thick MDF (2 layers 3/4"0 and weigh about 80# each. Alone, they have good bass, but with the sub, everything is filled out nicely. The sub sits beside then couch. They satellite amp is an Adcom GFA-535 and the sub amp is an Adcom GFA-2535, A/B, and C/D bridged (the extra bridging I did myself, Adcom supplied the extra components. The systems sounds good at all levels. Richard Goodchild I would advise using a bi/tri amped system with active crossovers that allow
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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Subwoofer Integration

you to alter the crossover points. (I have a few. I am involved with Band Pa and DJ systems, usually 3kw RMS or greater). The best measuring device for audio systems in the human ear. I personally have found that using tools to set a system up to the "correct" values often does not create a sound that is pleasing to listen to. After all it does not matter if the system is accurate if the sound is not pleasing to the people that are listening to it. (You can tell that I am not a true audiophile & have to deal with practical applications in front of paying customers) The best crossover point can change from room to room that the system is used in. I find starting off at a bass crossover point of about 150Hz and varying it near that point when playing the type of music that will typically be played through the system usually shows where the best point is. Trying different positions for the speakers (wherever is practical) is often a good idea too. (Beware of partition walls as they can have strange bass resonance effects. If you hear a strange bass response at about 80Hz try moving the sub further away from the wall. False ceilings can also have an effect). What you want from the subs is also important. As with anything it is a compromise. The more you want to feel the bass, the lower the crossover point you will want (Down to about 60 Hz crossover point providing you can still fully us the power of your amp). However this will decrease the amount of bass you hear through your ears. (and the more you annoy your neighbours ;). If the acoustics of the room are still giving you trouble then the use of a 1/3 octave (31band per channel) graphic equalizer can sort many problems out. this is particularly true when trying to combat resonance effects from the room or furniture. (15 band eq's are often cheaper but may not give enough flexibility in some situations) Mehul Mepani I have a method which I tried once and was very successful. Here it is: See the frequency response of the speakres, decide its bottom frequency if you have a choice to set the crossover point. Let's say we do not have the choice and we set it at 80Hz on AV receiver. You can also configure the speaker as full rancge in the AV receiver and set the low pass in the subwoofer where the speaker starts rolling off. That is simple. Decide the placement of the sub (I do not want to cover this issue here, as my subject matter is setting proper levels and phase). Get a frequency generator and generate the crossover frequency. both, the main speaker and the sub will start emanating bass frequencies. Set the phase when you get maximum sound. If you do not want to get into the frequency generator business, have a lot of bass music and refer to some online info or a book about the instrument that covers this narrow band near the crossover frequency and play that recording. Now must have set the bass levels to a crude extent. It is time to fine-tune it. You get many CDs that give you sweep tones in the bass frequengies. Play the tone. Keep the remote handy. Use a narrow range above and below the crossover point to set the levels, the transition should be so smooth that you

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Subwoofer Integration

shouldn't feel the transition at all. You may have a sweep tone ranging from 20Hz to 200Hz. To narrow it down keep an eye on the CD/DVD player clock and hands on speaker woofer and subwoofer driver. Note the narrow range of time when the sub stops and the speaker starts. Add five seconds on each side of this point and put it in the A-B loop on the CD/DVD player. This small piece of of bass track will keep playing in the loop now. Go back to the listening seat and listen to this carefully. Set the levels from sub or from the AV receiver whatever till you cannot make out when did the sub stop and speaker started. This gives you right amount of bass.

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A Hsu Subwoofer with a RD75 Dipole Baffle

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 A Hsu Subwoofer with a RD75 Dipole Baffle
last updated: 11 May 2002

Subwoofer DIY v1.1 - Discussion Forum - Projects - Links Related web sites: Hsu Research Parapix Amplifier Web Page Bohlender-Graebener Brian asked the Bass List recently for 'True Tales of Woofer Integration'. In March 1998 Rudi Blondia and I measured several woofers and crossovers in conjunction with a pair of RD75 dipole baffles at a very large gymnasium. This was the final event for an off-Bass List group of planar/ribbon enthusiasts who were interested in woofer integration with the RD75 planar driver. The 'whole' story would be very long indeed, and would have to include much crossover theory, so this will be a somewhat abridged version. One critical matter relating to theory is important. That is, the difference in sound attentuation rates at which a line-source and point-source fall as the distance from them increases. A line-source's fallrate of -3dB per doubling of distance is onehalf the attenuation rate of a point-source. Line-sources will stay louder, farther from the source, than does a point-source. This physical reality can't be circumvented. So what does it mean for woofer integration? There will be only ONE point distant from the line-source main speaker and point-source woofer combination at which their amplitude integration CAN be perfect. The output amplitudes of the two different types of drivers do not 'track' over distance. At distances beyond the choosen integration point the woofer's level will be too low; and, when closer than the integration point the woofer will be too loud. The user must choose the integration point's distance and adjust the amplitude levels and crossovers of the drivers accordingly. A final note before starting: I'm frustrated with the data here and so is Brian. There's nothing to be done about the matter at this time though. Time at the gym was not sufficent to make the comprehesive measurements that would answer the many questions that arise from the data. Rudi chose to measure his 1259 woofer system in close proximity to his dipole baffle, but I took a different tack, consistent with how I will use the Hsu/RD75 system in my livingroom. The Hsus will be along the sidewalls and the RD75s centered on the backwall about 2.5 feet out from it and about 7 feet apart. There is about 5 feet lateral separation between each Hsu and it's RD75. It is more
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A Hsu Subwoofer with a RD75 Dipole Baffle

difficult to get good looking response plots when the woofer and main speaker are separated, but in many cases we either cannot or choose not to put our subwoofers close to the main speakers. The subwoofer being placed at a such a distance from the main speakers with a 125Hz crossover implies 'sweet spot' listening. Also, one does not wish to put large objects, like woofer cabinets, close to the main dipole speakers due to diffraction issues. For my situation these setup parameters are givens, and are consistent with two goals: 1. To have the RD75 baffles as unobstructed as possible to maximize the effect of their dipole side nulls and reduce diffraction/reflection problems; and 2. To implement a two-way loudspeaker system. A Parapix active filter/amplifier combination was used in this study for it's active crossover functionality and also to provide amplification for the Hsu subwoofer. It was extensively modified, 'hacked', to as close an approximation of a 'Parametric active filter' concept as time and the situation permitted. Adjustments that one ususally never sees on commericial active filters, such as high & low pass 'Q' adjustments for altering the 'knee' of the filter's response were built-in. Prior to the test session the 4th order Linkwitz-Riley low pass (to the Hsu) and the 4th order Butterworth (to the RD75) were set at 125Hz with high precision test equipment. The RD75/baffle combination starts it's low end rolloff at approximately that frequency, and in combination with the 4th order Butterworth filter approximates an 8th order Linkwitz-Riley electro-acoustic filter. The 125 Hz 4th order Butterworth high pass to the RD75 is the minimum frequency and slope required by the BG Corporation to maintain the warrenty. At the Gym, during the course of preparations for the measurements the following additional crossover adjustments on the Parapix were 'eyeballed' by Rudi and I: 1. The 6th order high Pass boost to the Hsu vented subwoofer, which sets the lower frequency response limit of the subwoofer. It is not clear that a true 6th order high pass response was achieved. 2. The amplitude of the subwoofer bandpass relative to the RD75 output, which was set with the subwoofer 'online' with the RD75 baffle. This amplitude was not varied as the Hsu was moved forward relative to the RD75. 3. The low frequency phase control on the RD75 output. The phase control on the RD75 output turned out to be a complete bust, and we'll pretty much ignore it from this point on. It had an extremely small, if any, effect upon frequency response. An aside about the Dr. Hsu's 6th order vented alignment. Although Dr. Hsu had previously given me an active filter circuit schematic for use with the system I chose to fabricate a different form of the circuit allowing me to vary both the high

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A Hsu Subwoofer with a RD75 Dipole Baffle

pass frequency (18Hz to 48Hz) and the Q (0.5 to ~5.0). I think if you will compare the Hsu's low end to that of Rudi's electronically boosted 1259 you will see that the Hsu can 'get way down'. Rudi's website: Audio-X-Stream During the course of the adjustment of the low frequency boost/Q on the Hsu another issue arose. The Hsu and it's low pass active filter exhibited a 2nd order or -12dB/octave low pass response starting at 125Hz and for several octaves above that point, until finally reaching a fallrate of -24dB/octave rate or greater above 500Hz or so. The electrical response of the 4th order LR lowpass active filter to the Hsu was -6dB down at 125Hz! So what does it mean? The Hsu clearly has a signicant 'rise' in response above the 125Hz point, say a +12dB/octave rise relative to the bass pass band (20-125Hz)! That rising frequency response clearly 'compensates' the active filter low pass fallrate back from a 4th order to a 2nd order response for a couple octaves above the crossover. Sadly there are no separate plots of either the Hsu or the RD75 baffle. These are the problems that black box solutions cannot always ameliorate. Without system measurement the question always remains, 'what are the drivers doing?' Remember when you see the plots that the Hsu is NOT exhibiting a 24dB/octave low pass response at 125Hz. Nor is the RD75 exhibit a 24dB/octave high pass at 125Hz. What ultimately matters is the complete electro-acoustic response of the crossover/driver combination. In my listening room the Hsus can be moved forward or backward along the sidewall relative to the RD75 baffles to improve time alignment. This is part of what the experiment/demonstration was attempting to illustrate, i.e. the effects of physical positioning between RD75 and subwoofer without extensive crossover tweaking. The link following shows a schematic view of the test setup: The Test Setup. The RD75 baffle used in this experiment was one of my new 'equal area' baffles. No other measurements were made on it due to time limitations. It is a one-sided rectangular baffle, and can be expected to have all the benefits of a one-sided baffle relative to a two-sided baffle. It is exactly 15" in total width. The Test Results. The plots show that the range of affected response for the Hsu and RD75 integration extends to 600Hz. These are 'engineering' plots with a low level of smoothing (1/12 octave smoothing), no windowing on the FFTs, and 32 MLS averages. The 1 foot 'infront' condition is flattest through the 125Hz crossover point, yet
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A Hsu Subwoofer with a RD75 Dipole Baffle

has the deepest null at ~325Hz. The majority of baffles tested so far at the gym exhibit a dipole cancellation null in the 300Hz range. We should probably conclude that this is an example of that null. We might additionally conclude that the null gets partically 'filled-in' when the Hsu is in different positions due to it's prodigious output above the crossover frequency. It is clear that as the Hsu is moved farther from the RD75 baffle, closer to the microphone, that it's relative amplitude is increasing compared to the 'online' with the RD75 condition. This is expected from basic physical principles. The amplitude and other parameters the crossover to the Hsu/RD75 would normally be adjusted to best integrate with the RD75 at the listening position. This study shows what happens when those parameters are not adjusted. When the Hsu is 4' infront of the RD75 do we judge the response to be -2dB at 20Hz (and NO room gain!!!)? I was worried that the Hsu would have difficulty 'getting up' to 125Hz. This surely doesn't seem to be a problem given the results. Subjectively, the question of whether there is too much distance separation between the RD75s and the Hsus for a 125Hz crossover is a non-issue. The only time one can 'hear' the Hsus is when their level is too high - even with the 125Hz crossover! This is the first time I've implemented stereo subwoofers at home, and I must admit to a secret smile or two over a couple cuts from 'sonic spectacular' CDs that have wild sideto-side low frequency effects. [Note: Text below is from my final 'Ave Atque Vale' message to the RD75/Woofer Integration Group.] I believe the general understanding to be derived from the plots is of the sensitivity of the frequency response at crossover to all the variables at issue, including that of the physical time alignment between the drivers. What Rudi and I have demonstrated to you is that you can create a TWO-WAY system using the RD75 and a subwoofer. This is an amazing thing when you consider the range of frequencies involved. The 125Hz crossover point possible with the RD75 driver opens a range of potential woofer options to the DIYer. To pontificate a bit, one of my intentions in hacking the ParaPix amplifiers for use with the RD75 and Hsu subwoofer was to demonstate the possibility for the financially challenged DIYer (been there! still there!) to create a system which might approximate a commericial RD75 system costing $25,000 for somewhat less than 1/10th the cost. In fact, it might even be better than the $25K system with the proper dipole baffle selected for use with the RD75 driver. It is my understanding that the RD75s are still available for the original Bass List DIY price of $396 each through aftermarket vendors. It's a pretty good deal, ask an owner. Go forth and integrate your woofers.

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A Hsu Subwoofer with a RD75 Dipole Baffle

John Whittaker May 12, 1998

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Subwoofer & Satellite Response Curves

The Subwoofer Page v1.1 Subwoofer + Satellite Response Curves


Author: Brian Steele Last Updated: 28 May 2001

The graphs below show the frequency response curves of my present INF10 subwoofer system plus the response of my Mission 751 main speakers, in my present living room.

The mauve graph is the response of the subwoofer alone. The subwoofer output from the my Technics receiver is rolled off above 100 Hz at 12dB/oct, and this is reflected in the measured response curve. The 6dB dip at 44Hz is a room artifact. The red graph is the response of the Missions with their ports stuffed with damping material, which

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Subwoofer & Satellite Response Curves

basically converts them into sealed systems. Now, why would I do this? Well, examine the dark blue graph, which is the combined response of the subwoofer and the Mission 751 speakers in sealed configuration. The response of the subwoofer is set about 4-5dB higher than the main speakers, to match my personal preferences. Bring it down by 4dB, and the response will be basically flat (except for that 6dB dip) from below 30 Hz to 200 Hz. Not too bad at all. Now let's look at what happens if we leave the Mission 751 speakers in their normal vented configuration and then add the subwoofer. The solid blue line shows the combined response of the vented 751 speakers with the subwoofer - notice the DIP in response between 100 to about 180 Hz, then the massive peak at 75 Hz? Not very nice! This dip and peak could probably be adjusted by turning down the subwoofer's output a little, but at the expense of the low bass response. Now, let's see what happens if we reverse the leads to the sub (basically changing the phase by 180 degrees). The resulting response is indicated by the dashed blue line on the graph. No dip and peak in the x-over region this time, but notice the downward sloping response from 120 Hz? This ain't too hot either! So, it seems from the measurements that the combination of the sealed Mission 751s and the subwoofer provides the best response. This combination comes with problems of its own though - the power handling of the main speakers is now reduced within their passband, and there's still a little too much interaction between the subwoofer and the main speakers. However, the combined response of this system is definitely better than any of the vented combinations. Future Improvements I think that the overall response of this system can be improved as follows: 1. Move the corner frequency for the subwoofer's low-pass filter to 60-70Hz, perhaps with a 24 dB/oct slope. This should flatten the response even further (by reducing the peak in response above 70 Hz). 2. To improve the power handling of the main speakers, a 12 or 24dB/oct high-pass filter at 60-70 Hz could used. 3. The notch at 44Hz could possibly be minimized by a small boost in the subwoofer's response around that area.

The Room Pictured below is the room in which the above response measurements were taken. My normal listening position is right where the SPL meter is located (yes, sometimes I like listening to my music lying down :)). The INF10 subwoofer is located right behind the right Mission 751 main speaker in the picture. It used to be located where my the computer, er, measuring system is, but the new location seems to provide a much smoother response.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Subwoofer & Satellite Response Curves

Questions? Brian Steele www.diysubwoofers.org

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects An INF10 subwoofer


last updated: 13 April 2004
q

Audio DIY Projects Subwoofer DIY Page my home page

Introduction In August 1998, my attention was caught by a new subwoofer driver offered by Madisound under the What's New section on their web site. The INF10, a 10" driver, appeared to have Thiele/Small parameters that suggested very good performance in a ported enclosure. The INF10 appears to be the same driver used by Infinity in their $600 SSW10 servo subwoofer, which received quite favorable reviews. The SSW10 was a 1.1 cu.ft. sealed enclosure housing a 10" driver that was powered by an 80W amplifier. The published T/S parameters are as follows: Vas Qts Fs Xmax Pe 109 litres (3.85 cu.ft.) 0.34 22 Hz 0.31 100 Watts

These parameters suggest that a port box about 2 cu.ft. or greater, tuned to frequency at or below 27 Hz would provide very good low bass performance, with cutoff frequencies below 30 Hz, for a 10" driver that cost $32? Of course I'm interested! Note that the INF10's Sd is about 330 cm^2, which is quite low for a 10" driver (effective diameter works out to 20.5 cm (8.07 in.)), but it's not as low as some other popular 10" drivers, including a few from Peerless. Investigation and Modeling Madisound suggests the use of a 2.3 cu.ft. box tuned to 27 Hz, which is a simple "maximally flat" alignment that should produce decent results. However, I think I'm going to try something different - a 2.5 cu.ft. box tuned to 22 Hz. Theoretically, my system should provide and extra 3dB at 20 Hz, at the expense of some midband efficiency. I think that this alignment would be a better match for my listening room, as well as the 100 Hz 12dB/oct LP filter built in to the subwoofer amplifier circuit of my Technics receiver. Shown below is the predicted frequency response of both systems:

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

Both systems can be expected to produce a 30 Hz tone at just under 100dB at 1 metre at a 25 Watt input level. In-band power-handling is slightly better for the Madisound alignment, but is less important to me than the extended frequency response of the large system. Personal Observations The INF10's cone is reasonably stiff, though not at stiff as some car audio 10-inchers I've come across. Physical cone throw is just about 1 inch. The INF10 has unmatched spade terminals, which suggests that this was a driver destined for use in a commercial full-range speaker system. Note that there's no cardboard spacer ring on the surround, so isobaric mounting might be a bit difficult (basically, you'll need to make your own spacer ring). The INF10 has a vented pole piece, a stamped frame that rings a little when I tap it a 2" voice coil former, and a 5" flat spider (good news for ported systems). Mechanical damping is quite low (matching the high Qms is indicated on the LEAP specs). There are no pinging sounds when I tap around the sides of the cone (good), and it's almost impossible to "rock" the cone from side to side (very good). Altogether very good value for a 10" woofer that costs $32. Parameter Measurement Measuring the T/S parameters of the INF10 driver using my usual methods proved to be extremely difficult, because of the low resonance frequency and high Qms (low mechanical damping), the latter which produced a high and difficult to measure impedance peak. However, the results from several measurement runs suggest to me that, if a large enough ported box is chosen, it should be possible to correct any frequency response anomalies that may arise by re-tuning the box to a higher or lower frequency. Motor Noise Most of the drivers I've come across usually exhibit some kind of motor noise, but usually when they're nearing their maximum excursion limits. However, the INF10's

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

characteristics were a bit different. When I subjected it to my usual "motor noise" tests (basically running a high-level 20Hz tone for the driver and listening for any out of the ordinary sounds), at about 1/8" excursion (20 Hz), the INF10 started to exhibit a ticking noise, which grew louder, then softer as the volume was increased. I traced the source of the noise to the point where the ribbon leads are bonded to the former. Just above this bond, the leads are bonded to the cone by a small bead of glue, but it seems that this bead came loose and was tapping against the cone, hence the "ticking". A small dab of silicone in the right place cleared up this problem immediately. Those of you who want to use INF10s might want to look out for this ticking "problem" with your driver - it's quite easy to solve, and the driver exhibits very little motor noise otherwise. Distortion Measurements Shown in the graphs below are distortion measurements I took of the raw driver driven with a 20 Hz signal at varying voltages. The graphs were generated using my PC as a signal generator/frequency analyzer, and a Radio Shack SPL meter as the recording device (reverse-C weighting was applied to the results). The results indicate that 2nd harmonic distortion increases significantly when the driver is mounted horizontally, and 3rd harmonic distortion decreases slightly. This suggests that the best results might be obtained with the driver oriented forwards instead of facing down.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

Free-Air Frequency Response Measurements The graph below shows the free-air response of the driver (measured via CoolEdit and my SPL meter). The lower end of the graph is probably inaccurate and should be ignored. Of concern here is the twin peaks at 900 Hz and 2.1 kHz.

The graph below shows the predicted response of this driver, when driven by my Technics receiver's subwoofer output (12dB/oct @ 100 Hz). I suspect the 900 Hz peak, though reduced in size, might still be audible under certain conditions. A 12dB/oct filter centered at 450 Hz should take care of this problem, if it occurs.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

[My thanks to Stephen Tidwell of Layne Audio for providing information about the INF10's past life in a commercial subwoofer design] Construction Plans Coming up with a 2.5 cu.ft. ported box for this driver proved to be a bit of a task. At first I wanted a box that could fit below my couch, but that proved to be impossible. Shown below are the latest drawings that I've come up with. Once constructed, the net internal volume of the box (with speaker installed) should turn out to be 2.54 cu.ft. Note that my measurement of the volume displaced by the INF10 via the usual bucket and water technique turned out to be 183 cu.in., and this accounted for (along with the volume occupied by the braces) in the design. Note also that the 5.25" cutout is for the flared 3" port (also purchased from Madisound). The box is designed so that the driver and port can be faced downwards or forwards.

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

Construction Box construction was relatively straightforward. First of all, the two braces were fitted together in the shape of a cross. Then the mounting flange was attached to the rear of the baffle such that the two circular cutouts were concentric (this "flush-mounts" the
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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

INF10 driver). The other panels were then attached (using glue and screws) to the braces, starting with the larger side panels, then the top and the baffle, then the smaller side panels. Once the glue was dry, a hole was cut for the terminal cup and then the terminal cup, the driver, the leads from the driver to the terminal cup, and finally the port were installed. The following pictures were taken while I was constructing the subwoofer.

Initial Results For a subwoofer based on a driver that cost $32, the initial results I'm getting seem to be quite nice, except for the driver's tendency to "bottom" hard with a loud cracking noise when it receives a large transient signal. If you're looking for a sub to play the 1812's cannons, then I recommend that you look elsewhere. OTOH, it seems to be quite a good match for any system where you don't have a maniac at the bass controls. Preliminary listening tests tell me that, compared to my "El Uglito", the INF10 subwoofer delivers more low bass (expected), but a but less "punch" (which could be the signs of problems in the x-over region). Port Problems Click on the image below to see what the output of the port looks like.

With this type of response, this system definitely can't be used full-range! In my opinion, this "organ-pipe" effect is one of the main reasons why ported systems should probably be considered for subwoofers only, not for full-range systems, unless in the

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

full-range system, the driver is crossed over well before the "organ-pipe" resonance frequency. Note also that this is a measurement taken with the enclosure undamped. With a lining of fiberglass damping on the sides of the enclosure, I expect that the resonance peaks will be significantly reduced. The image below displays what the port response will look like if the subwoofer is fed with a signal from a 12dB/octave @100 Hz filter.

Note that, while the "organ-pipe" resonance effect is still present, it's much lower in level compared to the port's peak output. With additional damping, I expect the effect will be even further diminished. Improvements (01/2000 - 04/2000): The first thing that need to be improved in this particular subwoofer was the problem of cabinet vibration. It seems that, even with the cross-brace inside of the enclosure, the top and the bottom of the cabinet still suffered from noticeable vibration at higher volume levels. In an attempt to fix this, I inserted hardwood dowels lengthwise in the enclosure, and also include a few plywood cross-braces on the most troublesome panels (top and bottom). This fixes solved some of the vibration problem. I was starting to get a bit tired of this rough plywood box with its visible 50+ deck screws sitting in my living room, so I decided to veneer the box to give it a more attractive natural wood finish (with no visible screws). The problem is, no-one in Grenada seems to stock wood veneer (the stores' ideas of what constitutes "veneer" was Formica and Arborite - not the stuff that I want to put on any speaker box!). What to do? I decided to kill two birds with one stone. I purchased a sheet of 1/8" ply, and cans of MINWAX Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, Red Oak Wood Finish and Clear Satin Polyurethane Varnish, and set to work creating my own veneer and strengthening the box (the 1/8 ply adds additional stiffness) at the same time. The results seem pretty impressive, if I say so myself!

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : An INF10 Subwoofer

Related Sites
q

Steve Houlihan's INF10 Page

Brian Steele 13 April 2004

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - DUMAX Parameters

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 DUMAX Parameters


last updated: 24 June, 2002
q q q q

q q

Choosing a system Sealed systems Ported systems Passive Radiator Systems 4th Order Bandpass systems 6th Order Bandpass systems Transmission Line systems The final touches! Subwoofer Integration Audio DIY Projects Audio DIY Links Download entire site Discussion Forum my home page

Read almost any advertisement for a subwoofer driver in your typical car audio magazine, and you'll see headings like "600 watts power handling!", or "56 oz. magnet!". Unfortunately, these "specifications" really tell us NOTHING about how that driver is actually going to perform. There IS a particular set of parameters that DO give us a fair idea of how the driver will perform. Referred to as the Thiele/Small (or "T/S") parameters, these numbers describe the particular characteristics of the driver, and can be used to determine its output capabilities and box requirements, in the process removing an enormous amount of guesswork involved in subwoofer design and construction. The basic T/S parameters are as follows: Small-Signal Parameters

q q q

Fs

= resonance frequency of the driver.

Qes = Electrical Q of the driver at Fs. Qms = Mechanical Q of the driver at Fs. Qts = Total Q of the driver at Fs. Re = DC resistance of the driver's voice coil. . Vas = Equivalent air compliance.

Large-Signal Parameters Pe Sd = Thermal capacity of the driver, in Watts. = Effective surface area of the driver.

Xmax = Linear (one-way) travel of the cone. The "small signal" parameters are typically used by designers to determine optimum box size and tuning (i.e. "alignment") for a particular driver. The "large signal" parameters are normally used to estimate the output capability of the driver in the chosen alignment. Traditionally, the measurement of large-signal T/S parameter Xmax has been based solely on the length of the voice coil and the length of the gap, therefore ignoring any non-linearities introduced by the driver's suspension, and also ignoring any compensatory effects introduced by same and/or the driver's magnetic structure. This traditional "Xmax" parameter could therefore be used

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - DUMAX Parameters

only as a ROUGH estimate of the driver's linear excursion potential. What was needed was a new definition for Xmax, one that has a direct relationship to the driver's output potential. In its Nov/Dec 1995 issue, Car Stereo Review included two articles on David Clark's DUMAX device - a driver measurement system that can, among other things, measure how far a driver's cone can travel while still working in a linear fashion. The DUMAX system actually measures TWO excursion parameters that define the driver's linear operation. These are as follows: Xmag = Excursion limit due to the magnetic limitations of the driver's motor. Xmag is defined as the displacement at which the BL product has fallen to 70% of its value at the cone's rest position. Xsus = Excursion limit due to the driver's suspension. Xsus is defined as the point at which the compliance of the suspension has decreased to 25% of the value at the cone's rest position. From these two figures, Xmax is then derived as follows: Xmax = The shorter of the Xmag and Xsus values, in each direction of cone travel. Note that very often Xmag and Xsus are NOT the same for each direction of cone travel. Therefore, an "average" Xmax figure is usually derived from the Xmax for forward travel and Xmax for reverse travel. Example: Given: Xmag (forward) = 14 mm Xmag (reverse) = 8 mm Xsus (forward) = 14 mm Xsus (reverse) = 14 mm Then: Xmax (forward) = min(14,8) = 8 mm Xmax (reverse) = min(14,14) = 14 mm Xmax (average) = (14+8)/2 = 11 mm It should be clear to see the advantages that the DUMAX measurement of Xmax brings to loudspeaker design and construction. Not only can we now determine the optimum alignment for a particular driver using the "traditional" T/S parameters, but we can also quite accurately determine the system's linear output capability as well, along with the power required to make the most use of the driver's excursion range. A final note: it has recently become quite fashionable to prominently feature a
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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - DUMAX Parameters

driver's Xmax capability in subwoofer advertisements. Please note that Xmax is only ONE of a number of parameters that have an effect on the overall response! Do NOT make the mistake of choosing a driver solely on its Xmax rating - you may end up with a disappointing system. Driver Measurements Brian Steele References:
q

"To the Max"- David Clark Car Stereo Review (Nov/Dec 1995) Hachette Filipacchi Magazines "Just Do It" - Tom Nousaine Car Stereo Review (Nov/Dec 1995) Hachette Filipacchi Magazines

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - DUMAX Measurements

The Subwoofer DIY Page DUMAX Measurements


last updated: 24 June, 2002

15" Drivers Adire Audio Tempest 15 Cerwin-Vega Stroker 15 Image Dynamics ID154 Orion Xtreme 15 D Rockford Fosgate Punch RFP-1215 12" Drivers Adire Audio Brahma 12 Adire Audio Shiva 12 Alpine SWL-3048 Audiomobile EVO-R 2312 S4 Audiomobile EVO 2212 S24 Audiomobile MASS 2012 Aura 12,000 RPM Cadence SW12-LX Crystal CMP-12 DEI High Fidelity 3128 Digital Designs 9112-4 Dynaudio MW190 Ground Zero GZR-12 Hsu Research ASW1201 Image Dynamics ID124 Infinity Kappa 120.1se Infinity Perfect 12.1 JBL 1200GTi JBL GT1200D Jensen JSW124 Kove Audio KLD 12-6 Kove Audio KXP12D Pioneer TS-W303C Polk DB12-4 Pyle PW124

Ref: Imp. Re
man. 1 2 3 4

Vas

Fs

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 18.1 11.0 16.4 13.0 16.4 779 05/2001 11.0 866 11/1995 10.7 813 11/1999 6.3 828 11/1999

4 4 4 2 2

3.51 315 18.8 0.35 0.37 6.72 3.19 95.0 39.2 0.21 0.23 10.8 4.10 484.4 15.6 0.30 0.32 3.78 1.98 566.6 18.6 0.36 0.39 4.77 2.10 283.3 17.4 0.29 0.30 5.49 Vas Fs

12.0 827 11/1999

Imp. Re
man. 8 5 man. man. 6 7 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 56 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 27.3 14.9 35.7 14.1 19.1 15.8 5.8 18.0 13.9 8.0 10.1 11.0 28.5 21.8 27.4 20.6 22.8 24.7 11.6 17.8 12.5 16.4 9.3 27.3 436 11/2001 14.9 481 ??/???? 11.2 469 10/1998 27.4 424 06/2002 14.1 467 07/2001 19.1 01/2000

4 4 4 4 8 2 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 2 4 4 4

2.58 37.23 28.1 0.45 0.50 5.06 2.82 135.0 21.6 0.38 0.40 6.50 145.0 23.4 0.29 0.31 4.17

3.16 37.8 25.2 0.29 0.33 2.76 6.13 77.3 20.9 0.35 0.38 4.01 1.58 79.3 23.6 0.40 0.43 6.13 149.0 23.3 0.33 0.36 4.14 181.0 20.2 0.31 0.33 5.09 163.7 24.1 0.38 0.43 2.62 147 23.0 0.35 0.40 3.12

10.3 492 10/1998 11.2 493 10/1998 15.8 7.5 13.1 5.8 11/1997

484 10/1998 09/1999

3.62 113.3 24.5 0.26 0.27 5.53 238.0 29.5 0.54 0.64 3.32 52.5 33.1 0.48 0.52 8.03 133.1 25.5 0.26 0.28 4.57 169.0 26.1 0.43 0.51 4.58 177.0 18.3 0.32 0.34 5.67

400 10/1997

11.6 388 10/1998 13.9 11/1995

10.0 511 10/1998 11.5 475 10/1998 13.3 8.0 6.8 6.4 9.9 10.1 9.8 9.3 5.7 05/2000

4.01 167.4 15.7 0.27 0.29 3.22 2.79 68.2 35.0 0.40 0.45 3.86 175.0 23.4 0.32 0.34 5.19 218.0 22.5 0.33 0.36 3.35 137 23.5 0.31 0.33 4.96

539 11/1995 496 10/1998 496 10/1998 512 10/1998 06/1998

1.55 102.0 31.9 0.36 0.39 3.96 197.0 22.5 0.30 0.33 4.48

469 10/1998 10/1998

3.77 155.8 18.5 0.29 0.31 2.71 303.0 21.6 0.38 0.42 4.03

517 10/1998

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The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - DUMAX Measurements

Soundstream SPL Mule 10" Drivers Aura Force 10 Boston Acoustics GS1000 Boston Acoustics RS10 Cerwin Vega 104 Earthquake SSB10 Focal Ouragan 27VX Hifonics GX-10 MTX BTL104 Phoenix Gold XS104 Polk EX10 Polk DB10 Rockford Fosgate DVC RFP-1210 Soundstream EXACT10 8" Drivers a/d/s/ 308RS CD Technologies MS-80 JL Audio 8W6-CR 6x9" Drivers Clarion Pro Audio SRR6952 Kenwood Excelon KFC-X696 Planet Audio P6950X 6.5" Drivers Audio Art 602SC Bostwick CX-6555 Cadence Ultrashock US65 Cerwin-Vega IT-62 Diamond Audio MS61 Kicker Impulse 1650 MB Quart RSB 160 Memphis Encore AR-EN60 Panasonic EAB-A65 6.5" Drivers Focal Polyglass 165V
-

26

3.72 117.0 24.2 0.60 0.67 6.30 Vas Fs

14.3

16.7

13.4

11/1998

Imp. Re
27 58 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 9.4 7.5 10.0 13.0 8.5 11.5 12.0 9.5 11.5 9.0 11.0 13.0 15.0 13.2 15.8 10.0 10.0 11.5 16.5 9.5 11.5 8.0 9.0 10.0 13.0 14.0 9.4 7.5 10.0 10.0 8.5 11.5 9.5 9.5 8.0 9.0 06/1998 07/2000 09/1997 09/1997 09/1997 09/1997 09/1997 09/1997 09/1997 09/1997

4 4 4 4 4 4 3 4 4 4 4 2 4

3.27 102.0 20.1 0.27 0.30 3.10 3.69 59.5 26.8 0.46 0.56 2.77 73.7 28.5 0.38 0.48 1.80 73.4 20.9 0.24 0.25 4.41 172.8 18.2 0.36 0.41 3.10 84.4 28.1 0.36 0.41 3.51 42.29 30.1 0.28 0.30 4.32 72.2 25.0 0.40 0.43 5.74 85.0 23.2 0.27 0.30 2.35 49.0 31.6 0.35 0.39 3.43

4.26 16.1 24.1 0.38 0.42 3.78 45.0 27.3 0.32 0.35 3.52 53.8 31.2 0.25 0.27 3.98 Vas Fs

10.0 195 11/1995 13.0 14.0 09/1997 09/1997

Imp. Re
39 40 41

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 9.4 6.9 203 11/1999 233 11/1999

2 4 3

2.13 23.2 35.2 0.49 0.60 2.58 3.37 81.7 14.2 0.25 0.29 1.67 2.91 28.0 28.0 0.36 0.39 3.91 Vas Fs

11.1 199 11/1999

Imp. Re
42 43 44

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 4.9 4.4 4.7 04/1999 04/1999 04/1999

4 4 4

3.60 65.2 30.2 0.25 0.31 1.21 3.60 25.8 42.5 0.39 0.47 2.30 3.67 31.2 41.5 0.61 0.87 2.04 Vas Fs

Imp. Re
45 46 59 59 47 59 48 49 50

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 4.9 7.2 4.2 4.0 3.8 9.0 3.8 4.3 2.9 4.0 5.9 3.8 4.2 3.4 3.3 04/1998 04/1998 10/2000 10/2000 08/1999 10/2000 08/1998 04/1998 04/1998

4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

3.20 16.4 56.4 0.73 0.88 4.28 3.51 5.67 76.5 0.71 1.01 3.51 3.64 7.1 92.4 0.65 0.90 2.35

2.84 22.7 39.9 0.36 0.45 1.84 3.70 16.7 49.2 0.35 0.43 1.89 4.0 15.9 60.3 0.37 0.44 2.46 59 0.62 0.71 4.50

2.79 14.5

4.81 4.82 98.8 0.79 1.00 3.74 3.58 9.07 82.1 0.87 1.19 3.23 Vas Fs

Imp. Re
55

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 5.99 05/2000

2.96 17.0 55.4 0.42 0.51 2.49

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MB Quart Referenz RKC 116 6" Drivers Infinity Kappa Uniplane 62f 5.25" Drivers JBC QX-5.4C JL Audio Evolution VR525-CS Xtant XIS2.5
-

57

2.82 20.1 52.3 0.24 0.49 1.53 Vas Fs

5.26

06/2000

Imp. Re
51

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 3.2 4.8 3.2 06/1998

3.22 4.70 89.3 0.47 0.70 1.42 Vas Fs

Imp. Re
52 53 54

Qts Qes Qms Xmag Xsus Xmax Sd Date 3.9 4.8 5.8 6.0 3.9 4.8 4.5 83 11/1998 85 11/1998 11/1998

4 4 4

3.28 6.80 49.9 0.51 0.69 1.93 3.61 7.37 60.3 0.75 0.92 3.95 3.16 9.35 54.5 0.26 0.30 2.19

Glossary: Size: Driver's nominal size (manufacturer's rating) Imp: Driver's nominal impedance (ohms) Date: Date at which measurement was performed (driver specs may change from year to year as improvements are made by the manufacturer Re given in ohms, Vas in litres, Xm in mm, Sd in cm^2 and Pe in Watts. For Dual Voice Coil (DVC) drivers, the Impedance given is the impedance of the two coils wired in parallel. References: 1-54 - Tom Nousaine, Eric Busch (DLC), Car Stereo Review (Hatchette Filipacchi Magazines) 55 56 57 58 59

- "Test Reports", Tom Nousaine, Car Stereo Review (Hatchette Filipacchi Magazines), May 2000 issue - "Test Reports", Tom Nousaine, Car Stereo Review (Hatchette Filipacchi Magazines), May 2000 issue - "Test Reports", Tom Nousaine, Car Stereo Review (Hatchette Filipacchi Magazines), June 2000 issue - "Test Reports", Tom Nousaine, Car Stereo Review (Hatchette Filipacchi Magazines), July 2000 issue - "Special Test", Tom Nousaine, Car Stereo Review (Hatchette Filipacchi Magazines), Oct/Nov issue

The Subwoofer DIY Page

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DRIVE UNIT REPORT


Mfg., Model Adire Audio, Bhrama 12 Description: 12" DVC Subwoofer Sample # 1 Outside Dimensions Max Diameter (mm): 316 Min Diameter (mm): 312 Mounting Depth (mm): 181 Magnet Diameter (mm): 190 Driver weight (Kg): 17.5

Report date: 11/21/01

Thiele-Small Parameters @ x=0


Fs Qe Qm Qts Vas Sd Re 28.14 0.4976 5.0555 0.4530 37.2309 0.0436 2.5797 Hz Mmd Cms Rms Sd Bl Re

Electro-Mechanical Parameters @ x=0


224.40 0.0001 8.0294 0.0436 14.5061 2.58 g m/N ohmm m^2 N/A ohm
0.139319 mm/N effective radius 117.83 mm

ltr. m^2 ohm

X Parameters from Curve Fit


Xmag Mag Center Bl Bl x coef A BL x^2 coef B 27.32 2.44356 15.2529 0.00214 -0.00044 Xsus Sus Center K K x coef A K x^2 coef B 28.45 3.1975 6.7262 -0.0061 0.0008 Xmax 27.32

Bl vs. X
18 16 14 50 12 Kms (N/mm) Bl (N/A) 10 8 6 20 4 BL vs. x (N/A) 2 0 -37.5 Bl curve fit 71% of rest BL value ( Xmag) -30 -22.5 -15 -7.5 0 7.5 displacement (mm) 15 22.5 30 37.5 0 -37.5 -30 -22.5 10 40 70

Incremental Kms vs. X

Kms 60 Kms curve fit 400% (4X) of rest Kms, ( Xsus)

30

-15

-7.5

7.5

15

22.5

30

37.5

displacement (mm)

-30

manual Bl fit mm to 34.5 mm

-28.5

manual Kms fit mm to 34.5 mm

C:\My Documents\DUMAX_DURs\Clients\A,B,C\Adire Audio\01-073AdireBhrama12.doc

Kms vs. X
70

60 KMS 50 Kms Curve Fit

Kms (N/mm)

40

30

20

10

0 -37.5

-30

-22.5

-15

-7.5 0 7.5 displacement (mm)

15

22.5

30

37.5

C:\My Documents\DUMAX_DURs\Clients\A,B,C\Adire Audio\01-073AdireBhrama12.doc

active xover with equalization

The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1


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Date: July 25, 2004 at 01:42:20 From: mike, [203.122.114.225] Subject: active xover with equalization

i am looking for an active xover with boost such as the unit by marchand electronics built or in kit form, any options would be greatly appreciated. thanx mike

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Re: Subwoofer repair help

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Date: July 24, 2004 at 21:04:59 From: Amos Newsome, [0-1pool64-89.nas17.birmingham1.al.us.da.qwest.net] Subject: Re: Subwoofer repair help

I believe that Eminence designed those loudspeakers. I'd try checking with them. I've got a Lanzar LC18S 18" sub that I just blew. I think that it is similar in design.

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/talkshop/messages/38411.htm [26-07-04 04:19:02 a.m.]

Mind Reader ?

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Date: July 24, 2004 at 16:40:51 From: djk, [tc179.cedar-rapids.net] Subject: Mind Reader ?

You really use AOL? It figures. Did you know that GM makes more than one kind of car? Pyle makes more than one model of 18!!!

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/talkshop/messages/38410.htm [26-07-04 04:19:04 a.m.]

KFC ?

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Date: July 24, 2004 at 16:01:29 From: djk, [tc179.cedar-rapids.net] Subject: KFC ?

Around these parts kfc stands for 'Kentucky Fried Chicken', and last I head they don't make woofers KFC restaurant chain specializing in Original Recipe fried chicken, homestyle side dishes, and fresh biscuits. Category: Chicken Restaurants www.kfc.com/ - 10k - Cached - More pages from this site Kentucky Fried Cruelty PETA's campaign asking KFC to protect its farmed chickens from alleged abuse and neglect. Category: Consumer Advocacy and Information > Boycotts www.kfccruelty.com/ - 22k - Cached - More pages from this site Nutritional Guides - KFC.com For a more precise search, click Advanced Store Locator. Colonel's Recipes. Nutritional Info. Picnic Planning. Family Reunions. Catering Suggestions. Home > Colonel's Kitchen > Nutritional Guides. There's Fast Food...Then There's KFC! ... Do you need help finding the nearest KFC restaurant near you ... www.kfc.com/kitchen/nutrition.htm - 15k - Cached - More pages from this site Urban Legends Reference Pages: Tastes Like Chicken debunking the claim that KFC restaurants no longer use the word 'chicken' to describe their product because they serve meat from genetically engineered animals. Category: Urban Legends > Kentucky Fried Chicken Hoax www.snopes.com/horrors/food/kfc.htm - 20k - Cached KFC - Coming Soon! KFC - Coming Soon www.kfc.com.au/ - 2k - Cached

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KFC ?

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wow, i have no idea, NO SPECS = NO HELP

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Date: July 24, 2004 at 09:44:28 From: norman bates, [oproxy3.rockwellcollins.com] Subject: wow, i have no idea, NO SPECS = NO HELP

lets see, you have 2 18" pa pylke drivers, no model # no qts no vas no Fs Your guess is as good as mine. Maybe 1ft3 maybe 8ft3 port it to anywhere between 12hz and 100hz. I mean come on, Bare minimum we need qts, fs, and vas.

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http://www.diysubwoofers.org/talkshop/messages/38408.htm (1 of 2) [26-07-04 04:19:07 a.m.]

wow, i have no idea, NO SPECS = NO HELP

http://www.diysubwoofers.org/talkshop/messages/38408.htm (2 of 2) [26-07-04 04:19:07 a.m.]

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