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The Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago

EMBROIDERING IDENTITIES:
A CENTURY OF PALESTINIAN CLOTHING

Traditional Clothing from Palestine on Exhibit at the Oriental Institute Museum

An exhibit of 19th and early 20th century clothing from Palestine will be shown at the Oriental Institute
Museum from November 11, 2006 to March 25, 2007. The exhibit entitled “Embroidering Identities: A
Century of Palestinian Clothing” is a joint project of the Oriental Institute of the University of Chicago
and the Palestinian Heritage Center in Bethlehem. The exhibit opens in November 2006 in celebration
of Arab Heritage month.

The exhibit explores the issue of personal and regional identity and how it was expressed through
clothing. It also shows the beauty, technical achievement, and tremendous diversity of the garments. In
the days before globalization and the homogenization of culture though television and cinema, clothing
was an important cultural marker that expressed not only geographic origin but also status. Until recent
years, each region of Palestine had its own style of clothing for women characterized by distinctive
patterns of embroidery, appliqués, sleeve design, and accessories. Although men's clothing did not
express as strong a regional identity, it too showed considerable diversity.

Clothing was an important part of the culture—a significance that is now largely lost. Dressmaking skills
were usually taught to girls from about the age of seven. The grandmother was the person responsible for
teaching the skill of embroidery. People strongly believed that the personality of the future bride was
revealed in the workmanship, color and design of her dresses. The girls started embroidering at a young
age so their wedding trousseau would be full of lavishly embroidered items by the time they are ready to
be married. The dresses were heirlooms that were passed from generation to generation. When finally
outgrown, or too worn to be used, a garment might be turned into household rags. Fine embroidery pieces from the
embroidered chest panel of a woman's dress were often kept to be re-sewn onto new garments.

The exhibit includes clothing from Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Ramallah, Jericho, Hebron, Beir Saba' and
Gaza. Among the ensembles are traditional wedding gowns with their elaborate headdresses covered
with coins and silver ornaments. The exhibit includes women’s dresses, shawls, and headdresses, and
jewelry and men’s over cloaks and accessories.

The materials are drawn from the permanent collection of the Oriental Institute
Museum of the University of Chicago and from the Palestinian Heritage Center in
Bethlehem. The Oriental Institute's holdings were collected by members of the American Colony in
Palestine in the early twentieth century. The late Clara Klingman donated the collection to the Oriental
Institute in 1980. Most of the garments have never before been exhibited. The Palestinian Heritage
Center in Bethlehem possesses a major collection of costumes and has a permanent display of its
collection. The Center has also put together many shows and exhibits internationally.

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Oriental Institute | Embroidering Identities: A Century of Palestinian Clothing http://oi.uchicago.edu/museum/special/embroidering/

Educational programming including lectures on the history of Palestinian embroidery and its
regional variability. Hand-made embroidered items will be available for purchase at the Oriental
Institute’s gift shop “The Suq”.

The Oriental Institute Museum is located at 1155 East 58th Street, Chicago. The Museum is open
Tuesday, Thursday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., Wednesday from 10:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Sunday
from noon to 6:00 p.m. Suggested donation for admission is $5 for adults, $2 for children. For programs, call 773 702
9514.

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Revised: February 16, 2007

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