Key Terms Adding fullness: Applies when design fullness is greater than the dart excess can provide.

Added fullness is not directed to the pivotal point (bust). Adding to the pattern's outline also indicates that added material is needed for the design.

Contouring: Fitting to the contour above, below, and between the bust, leaving the dart excess to be absorbed into stylelines or gathers. Gapping ease caused by cutout neck lines and armholes is transferred to be absorbed.

Dart equivalent: A creative dart that functions as a dart in the sense that the fit is not adversely affected. Dart manipulation: Changing the location of a dart within the pattern frame. Remember that the dart is responsible for fit and will be part of the design in one form or another. Design analysis: Through design analysis, an experienced patternmaker is able to identify which principles and techniques to apply in developing correct pattern shapes that end in a three-dimensional replica of the design. Design pattern: The finished pattern that contains all the features related to the design. Flat patternmaking: Major patternmaking principles and techniques: dart manipulation (relocating darts), added fullness (adding more fabric in the design), and contouring(fitting to the hollows of a model's figure). Pattern manipulation: The act of slashing and spreading or pivoting a pattern to alter its original shape. The new pattern shape represents design features of the garment. Pattern plot: The act of placing lines on a traced copy of the working pattern relating directly to the design features. The lines are used as guidelines for pattern manipulation. Pivotal point: A designated point on the pattern (for example, the bust point). The pattern is slashed to, or pivoted from, this point. This allows the pattern shape to be altered without changing its size or fit. Test fit: A process where fitting problems are located and corrected. Working pattern: Any pattern used as a base for manipulation when generating design patterns.

No added fullness See the first row of sketches. Start with three pattern pieces - A, B, and C. All horizontal sides are equal to each other. Sewing them together results in one smooth pattern.

Add equal fullness on both sides See the second row of sketches. Suppose you want to make B equally full from top to bottom. Slash B in thin strips (as many as you like). Spread those strips apart. Then fill in the empty spaces with new fabric (the red rectangles). Those red rectangles are the added fullness.

Add fullness on one side only See the third row of sketches. Now suppose you want to make B full only at the bottom but not at the top. Again slash B in thin strips. Rotate those strips so that they open up at the bottom but not at the top. Fill in the empty spaces with new fabric (the redtriangles). Those red triangles are the added fullness.

Add unequal fullness on both sides See the last row of sketches. Lastly, suppose you want to make B more full at the bottom than at the top. Slash B again in thin strips. Spread and rotate those strips so that they open up more at the bottom than at the top. Fill in the empty spaces with new fabric (the red trapezoids). Those red trapezoids are the added fullness. Of course, MD does not have a scissors tool yet. So we cannot do the slashing operation here. You can do it in another application like Illustrator, or eyeball it within MD, or improvise your own way of doing it within MD.