Part 1- Manufacturing the shaft

1. Mount the work-piece on the lathe First we took the billet in the necessary dimensions and sheared it using hacksaw to the required length keeping the allowances for facing the both ends. After shearing the work-piece measure the length of the shaft using vernire caliper verified the length we need to reduce by facing. Then we clamped the work-piece tightly in the 3-jaw chuck which was attached to the spindle. In order to get the work properly centered closed the jaws until they just touch the surface of the work. Then we twisted the work-piece in the jaws to seat it. Next tight the jaws from all 3 chuck key positions to ensure even gripping by the jaws. 2. Facing both ends As the next operation we needed to do is face both ends of the shaft according to the required length. First we mounted the right cut side facing tool in the tool post and turned the tool post so that the tip of the cutting tool will meet the end of the work-piece at a slight angle. It is important that the tip of the cutting tool be right at the centerline of the lathe. If it is too high or too low work-piece will be left with a little bump at the center of the face. After clamping the tool post in place, we advanced the carriage until the tool was about even with the end of the work-piece. When adjusting the tool we used the compound crank to advance the tip of the tool until it just touches the end of the work-piece and used the cross feed crank to back off the tool until it was beyond the diameter of the work-piece. Set the lathe to necessary speed and turned it on. We started the facing operation with the roughing cut. Then slowly advanced the cross feed crank to move the tool towards the work-piece. When the tool touches the work-piece it started to remove metal from the end. We continued advancing the tool until it reaches the center of the work-piece and then cranked the tool back in the opposite direction until it back past the edge of the work-piece. Generally it may need to make minimum of 3 passes to get a nice smooth finish across the face. Complete the facing with the finishing cut. Then we removed the work-piece form the 3-jaw chuck and measured the length. Verified the required length need to reduce. Mounted the shaft with opposite side and followed the same operations until the material removed for required length. 3. Center drilling The easier way of doing this is using the work-holding method. After facing we needed to mark the live centers in both ends using the center drill. This is necessary for the turning operation we had to perform later on. The alignment between the headstock and tailstock of the lathe enables us to drill holes that are precisely centered in a cylindrical piece of stock. First mounted the drill-chuck into the tailstock and make sure it is firmly seated. Then chose the appropriate center drill bit and mount on the drill chuck. Turned on the lathe and set the speed. Used the tailstock crank to advance the drill slowly into the end of the work-piece and continued until the required amount of depth is obtained. 4. Straight turning Turning is performed to reduce the diameter of the shaft according to the required amount. Since the larger diameter of the shaft is 23mm we needed to step down the diameter of the whole shaft in to 23mm. Since the work piece was relatively longer we needed to center drill the free end and use a live center in the tailstock to support the work-piece. After center drilling the shaft we removed the center

drill bit and drill chuck from the tailstock and mounted live center to the tail stock and make sure it is seated tightly. Then we advanced the live center using tailstock crack until the tip of the live center touches the drilled hole. In the drawing the surface roughness is specifically indicated. So chose a curved cutting tool with a slightly rounded tip. This type of tool should produce a nice smooth finish. Make sure that the tool was tightly clamped in the tool holder. We adjusted the angle of the tool holder so the tool was approximately perpendicular to the side of the work-piece. We moved the carriage until the tip of the tool was near the free end of the work-piece, then advanced the cross slide until the tip of the tool just touches the side of the work. Moved the carriage to the right until the tip of the tool is just beyond the free end of the work. We performed this using hand feed. Since the turning length was less than 120mm we didnt need to use power feed. Set the lathe into necessary speed and turned on. We turned the carriage hand wheel counter clockwise to slowly moved the carriage towards the headstock. As the tool started to cut into the metal, maintained a steady cranking motion to get a nice even cut. Continued advancing the tool towards the headstock until it is about 3-4 cm away from the chuck jaw since we needed to be careful by avoiding the tool from touching the chuck jaws. We performed several passes until it reached the required amount of 23mm diameter. Then we mounted the opposite side of the shaft to perform the turning on the area which was unable to do due to the clamping of the 3-jaw chuck. We followed the same method to turn the remaining surface. After this we got a shaft which has 23mm diameter. 5. Step turning From a one end we needed to reduce the diameter by 16mm up to length of 20mm. We needed to perform step down turning. A step is a point at which the diameter of the work-piece changes with no taper from one diameter to the other. Then we determined the 20mm mark up. Advanced the cross slide and used the hand feed to turn down. Since this was such a short distance, we used hand feed, not power feed. 6. Taper turning We used the compound rest method to machine the taper. Its the cheapest and easiest way of obtaining steep and short tapers other than offsetting the tailstock method and taper attachment method. We used the same round nose cutting tool. The compound rest base is graduated in degrees and can be set at the required angle for taper turning. With this method, it is necessary to know the included angle of the taper to be machined. First we had to find the taper angle. 20mm

Tan() = 23mm 16mm 9.9

Then we turned work-piece to maximum diameter of taper. Loosen compound rest lock screws and swivel the compound rest by angle of 9.9.

Feed direction

Then brought the cutting tool near end of work-piece and set a depth of cut of 1 mm. Turned on the lathe and gave feed by moving the compound rest handle. Brought tool to the start point again and set new depth of cut 1mm more than the previous. Then we fed my moving the compound rest handle. We repeated this until smaller diameter of the steep become 16mm. Finally we verified the dimensions of the work-piece. 7. U cut Took a end cutting tool and cut the groove needed. Then took a pile and smoothed the edge down to give it a chamfer. With the lathe running at fairly low speed, brought a smooth cut file up to the end of the work-piece at a 45 angle and apply a little pressure to the file. 8. Thread cutting There are 2 things we should determine before we cut a thread which are nominal outside diameter of the thread and the threads per length. We should refer the gear chart and setup the gear train properly. The cutting tool tip must have a 60 angle and use a multiple point cutting tool which is made out of HSS or carbide. We inserted threading tool in the tool post and adjusted the angle of the tool so that it was exactly perpendicular to the side of the work. Since this operation dissipates a lot of heat we used cutting fluid to remove the heat as well as the chips formation. Then set the cross-feed to the original zero position and started up the lathe machine. We made a very shallow test cut to make sure that we were actually cutting the intended pitch. After checking the pitch using a screw pitch gage, advanced the compound feed by smaller amounts on each pass. We disengaged the half-nut lever when it reached the end of the thread. Back off the cross-feed one full turn and cranked the carriage back to the starting point. We repeated above steps until depth has been cut to specified dial depth. 9. Chamfering As the finishing move take down the larger diameter end of the shaft and chamfer the edge at a 45 angle using a file. 10. Machine Shut Down Switched off the lathe machine from the main power and we collected all the tools used. We cleaned all the chips on the lathe machine using a brush.

Part 2
Safety precautions to follow when working with a lathe machine
1. Before starting any lathe operations, always prepare yourself by rolling up your shirt sleeves and removing your watch, rings, and other jewelry that might become caught while you operate the machine. 2. Wear goggles or an approved face shield at all times whenever you operate a lathe or when you are near a lathe that is being operated. The lathe can throw off sharp, hot metal chips at considerable speed as well as spin off spirals of metal that can be quite hazardous. 3. Wear shoes preferably leather work shoes to protect your feet from sharp metal chips on the shop floor and from tools and chunks of metal that may get dropped. 4. Tie back long hair so it can't get caught in the rotating work. Think about what happens to your face if your hair gets entangled. 5. Be sure the work area is clear of obstructions that you might fall or trip over. Keep the deck area around your machine clear of oil or grease to prevent the possibility of slipping or falling into the machine. 6. Get in the habit of removing the chuck key immediately after use. Some users recommend never removing your hand from the chuck key when it is in the chuck. The chuck key can be a lethal projectile if the lathe is started with the chuck key in the chuck. 7. Always use assistance when handling large work-pieces or large chucks. 8. Never remove chips with your bare hands. Use a stick or brush, and always stop the machine. 9. Always secure power to the machine when you take measurements or make adjustments to the chuck. Be alert to the location of the cutting tool while you take measurements or make adjustments. 10. Be attentive, not only to the operation of your machine, but also to events going on around it. Never permit skylarking in the area.

Importance of cutting fluids

The primary function of cutting fluid is cooling and lubrication. A fluid's cooling and lubrication properties are critical in decreasing tool wear and extending tool life. Cooling and lubrication are also important in achieving the desired size, finish and shape of the work-piece. A secondary function of cutting fluid is to flush away chips and metal fines from the tool and the workpiece interface to prevent a finished surface from becoming marred and also to reduce the occurrence of built-up edge. Cooling: Machining operations create heat. This heat must be removed from the process. The chip helps carry away heat from the tool and work piece. Coolant takes heat from the chips tool, and work piece. To be effective the fluid must be able to transfer heat very rapidly. The fluid absorbs the heat and carries it away.

Lubrication: In a typical machining operation most of the heat is created by the resistance of the work piece atoms to being sheared. The friction of the chip sliding over the cutting tool face creates the rest. Cutting fluid with good lubrication qualities can reduce the friction of the chip sliding over the tool face.

Benefits of using cutting fluids 1. Improve Part Quality - The use of cutting fluids reduces friction and heat. The removal of the heat prevents the work piece from expanding during the machining operation, which would cause size variation as well as damage to the materials microstructure. 2. Reduce tooling costs - Proper use of cutting fluids increases tool life, which reduces the tooling costs. Increased tool life also reduces tool changes and downtime which decreases labor costs. 3. Increase Cutting Speeds and Feeds - Cutting fluids reduce friction and heating a machining operation. This allows high speeds and feeds to be used to achieve optimal cutting conditions. 4. Improved Surface Finishes - Effective use of cutting fluids helps remove the chips. This prevents the chip from being caught between the tool and work piece where it causes scratches and a poor surface finish. 5. Rust and Corrosion Prevention - Cutting fluids should protect the tooling, machine, and work piece against rust and corrosion. Cutting fluids should leave a small residual film that remains after the water has evaporated.

Cutting tool materials

1. High Carbon Steel - This material is one of the earliest cutting materials used in machining. It is however now virtually superseded by other materials used in engineering because it starts to temper at about 220C .So this material is extremely sensitive to heat. This softening process continues as the temperature rises. As a result cutting using this material for tools is limited to speeds up to 0.15 m/s for machining mild steel with lots of coolant. 2. High Speed Steel (HSS) - This range of metals contain about 7% carbon, 4% chromium plus additions of tungsten, vanadium, molybdenum and cobalt. These metals maintain their hardness at temperature up to about 600, but soften rapidly at higher temperatures. 3. Cemented Carbides -This material usually consists of tungsten carbide or a mixture of tungsten carbide, titanium, or tantalum carbide in powder form, sintered in a matrix of cobalt or nickel. As this material is expensive and has low rupture strength it is normally made in the form of tips which are brazed or clamped on a steel shank. The clamped tips are generally used as throw away inserts.

3-Jaw chuck Vs 4-Jaw chuck

3-JAW CHUCK Self-centering ADVANTAGES Quick and easy to use Can hold hex bar-stock Can't hold square bar-stock Run-out/off-center can't be easily fixed Can't hold irregularly shaped work Can't turn off-center 4-JAW CHUCK Work can be centered to high precision Can handle square/rectangular bar Can turn work off-center Slightly more grip on round stock Slower to mount work (dialindicator required)

DISADVANTAGES

Can't hold hex-stock

Part 3 - Case study

1. Sheering the work-piece The required length of the work-piece is 75mm. Generally we use 0.01-0.02 inches (0.254-0.508cm) of depth of cut when performing rough facing. So we need to shear the work-piece around 80mm long allowing margin of error in shearing using hacksaw and keeping allowance for center drilling. After shearing measure the length of the work-piece using vernier caliper.

2. Roughly facing Now we need to mark the center by drilling with center drill. Before do that we need to smooth the surface by facing off the sharp edges created with shearing off. Insert the 3-jaw chuck (which allows the self-centering) into the spindle and mount the workpice. By using the work holding method and a right cut side facing tool we can perform facing roughly on both ends. After facing measure the length of the work-piece for verification.

3. Center drilling We need to reduce the diameter using turning. Since the drawing doesnt have the center mark we have to face off the centers by facing operation. By using work holding method mark the live center with a center drill bit. Do this for both ends.

4. Straight turning We need to reduce the radius of the work-piece by 5mm. After center drilling remove the drill chuck and mount the live center on the tailstock. Even though the work piece length is not considerably large we dont want to take a risk. So I determined to use the support of the live center when turning. By using the work holding method with live center reduce the diameter by a round nose tool. Use 0.01 inch of depth of cut if you are not using cutting fluids. Do it for several passes and measure the diameter using the vernier caliper regularly.

5. Facing Now we need to reduce the excess length of work-piece using facing operation and faceoff the center marks. Note down the amount of length need to be reduced. Take a right cut side facing tool and mount it on the tool post. Now align the tool cutting edge with the center line of the work-piece. Set up rotation for a lower speed and turn on the lathe. Starting from rough

face cut gradually reduce the length using several passes and finish off with a smooth surface with the finishing cut. Use a considerably low depth of cut to obtain a smoother surface. Unmount the work-piece and measure the length and note down the necessary length to be reduced. Then mount the workpice in the opposite end. The next step is to zero the tip of the cutting tool to the face of the work-piece. This position of the handle will serve as a convenient reference point when reducing the length up to 75mm. Note down the necessary length to be reduced exactly and face it gradually up to the required length.

6. Step turning We can do the taper turning as the final operations because after tapering the shaft end it may lose the grip with the 3-jaw chuck. Our next task is to reduce the diameter of the shaft using step turning.

Insert a round nose tool to the tool post. Given dimensions in the drawing is not sufficient to identify the length required to step down. After zeroing the tip of the cutting tool start turning up to required length. Finish the last passes with finishing cut using low depth of cut.

7. U cut Take an end cutting tool bit and cut the groove needed. This will reduce the stress concentration when performing taper turning.

8. Taper turning We can use the compound rest method to machine the taper. Take a round nose tool fix in to the tool post and adjust the compound rest to the required angle. In this case the given dimension is not sufficient to calculate the taper angle.

We must have a mark for the 25mm length where we should finish the tapering when the tool reaches the 25mm mark. Since we are not tracking the 20mm diameter mark it is necessary to measure the taper angle accurate as possible.

9. Knurling Knurling pattern used in the drawing is the diamond pattern. Take the required knurling tool. Keeping the same work holding method used in taper turning fix the knurling tool in to the tool post. Press the knurling tool against the larger diameter cylindrical surface from one end. Mount the tool to apply enough presser to form an impression.

Turn on the lathe in low speed. Then press the knurling tool against the rotating steel and slowly increase the pressure until the tool produces a pattern on the steel. Give the feed by moving the compound rest.

10. Chamfering Mount the work-piece in the opposite direction where the larger diameter end is inside the 3-jaw chuck. Chamfer the lower diameter end at an angel of 45 using a pile.

11. Thread cutting Set up the gear trains for necessary settings required for the pitch and the external diameter of the shaft. Use cutting fluid in this operation. Use a threading tool which has a 60 angle at the tip. Use the work holding method. Now set the cross-feed to the original zero position and run a test cut to make sure the pitch and the length. Use a screw pitch gage. Make a several passes until the required thread is machined.