FINISHING

INTRODUTION:Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different processes that the textile materials under go after pretreatments, dyeing or printing for final embellishment to enhance their attractiveness and sale appeal as well as comfort and usefulness. The term has been used in the past for all the treatments that the fabrics may undergo after weaving and knitting but this significance is now conveyed with the phrase Wet Processing. The finishing treatments are basically meant to give the textile materials certain desirable properties like softness, luster, pleasant handle, drape, dimensional stability, crease recovery, anti static, non-slip, soil-release etc However these also include finishes that have to meet certain specific end uses such as water-repellency, flame-retardancy, mildew proofing etc, just to name a few common ones. In addition to these, some finishing processes that may not be considered as exactly as ethical are sometimes given to cover either the faults of the fabric or to give a feel of heavy density to an otherwise lightweight material. This is done by binding clays on the fabric with the help of adhesives like starches or polyvinyl acetate. The types of finishes required and their methods of application depend upon the nature of the fibrous substrate and their arrangement in yarn or fabric. The properties of fibers such as swelling capacity, chemical reactivity, response to heat-treatment etc determine the type of the finish suitable for a particular product. The cotton fabrics, for example, are given crease-recovery or crease-shedding finish that is not always necessary for the wool fabrics. The woolen materials, on the other hand, require non-felting or machine washable finish and moth-proofing. The synthetic fabrics need heat-setting to stabilize their structure and soil-release treatments to make this acceptable to customers. Choice and degree of the finish and its equipment are further governed by factors such as structure of yarn, type of weave and construction of fabric i.e. whether woven, knitted, or non-woven.

FUNCTIONS OF THE FINISHINING PROCESSES

The main purpose of applying various finishes may be summarized as under. 1- HIGH SALES APPLAL: To impart properties of attractive appearance, supple handle, softness and good drape. 2- HIGH WEAR QULITY: This refers to adequate tensile and abrasion strengths, dimensional stability, crease recovery and freedom from pilling. 3- BODY PROTECTION AND COMFORT: This relates to proper heat insulation, moisture absorption and air permeability. 4SPECIAL EFFECTS: These include water-repellency, reduced flammability, mildew and moth-proofing, anti-static behavior and soil release property.

FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC MATERIALS:Cellulosic fibers especially cotton is a robust textile material and has many attractive properties like pleasant handle, good moisture absorption, strength durability, and easy laundering. However it lacks luster of wool, silk and man-made fibers. It also has poor dimensional stability and unlike wool and synthetic fibers cannot be heat-set to stabilize its structure. Again, in contrast to the keratin and some synthetic fibers, cotton is deficient in chemical reactivity and is not very amenable to chemical modifications. In view of these shortcomings, cellulosic materials require some special physical and chemical finishes so as to make these more attractive and serviceable.

Classification of Finishes:Considering the existence of a large number and a great variety of the finishes for the cellulosic fibers, it is understandable that a completely satisfactory classification is not possible to make. The finishes are often sub-divided as physical and chemical, permanent and temporary, deposition and reactive etc. Sometimes the finishes are classified according to the effects obtained like appearance, wearing qualities, weighting etc. To complicate the matter further, the final folding and packing of the materials is sometime included in the list. However the following description, through not perfect, is fairly rational and does justice to the topic.

Physical/Mechanical Finishes:(a) TEMPORARY/NON PERMANENT i). Calendaring: ii). Beetling (b) DURABLE i). Raising, Sueding, (Emerising or Peach Finish) Swizzing, Friction, Chasing, Schreiner, Embossing and Felt

Chemical Finishes:(a) TEMPORARY/NON PERMANENT i) For handle and Appearance: Softening, Stiffening, Weighting, Lustering (other than Mercerizing) Special Effects: Water-Repellency, Flame-Retardancy, Mildew proofing

ii)

(b) PERMANENT i) ii) Crease Recovery, Softening Water-Repellency, Flame-Retardancy, Mildew-Proofing

FINISHING RANGE FOR DENIM

Singing

Washing/ Softener Application

Sanforizing

Batch Formation

Singing:Normally the denim singing is done at 110 to 120 degree for 30 second with a flame pressure of 10 to 12 bar.

Washing:In washing fabric is treated with a softener and wetting agent, commonly used softener is silligent and wetting agent is J.V. Due to wetting agent desizing is done.

Sanforizing:The term sanforizing is used for shrinkage purpose. Comprehencesive shrinkage machines are used for sanforizing purpose.

Finishing Department
(Indigo Textile Mill)
In finishing dept. there are 2 finishing ranges having production capacity of 45000m per day. They have capacity to finish regular as well as flat. Machines #01 has 05 boxes and Machine #02 has only 2 boxes which is normally used for normal-regular finish Details are as under:

For flat Finish Causticization Hot Wash Acid Wash Cold Wash Softener

Function to improve absorbency to reduce contamination from Fabric to neutralize the Fabric to remove acidity from Fabric to soften

Volume 1800lit 1800lit 1800lit 1800lit 1500lit

pH 13+ 9-11 4-6 5-7 6.5-7.5

In support there are 2 feeding tanks, for caustic and for Softener. Each has maximum volume of 1500lit. For acid feed there is a purging of acid dosage.

For Normal Finish Washing Softener

Function to wash out fabric with Detergent to soften and neutralization

Volume 1800lit 1500lit

pH 9-11 6.5-7.5

On machine 32 De-sizing and Normal Finish is performed.

For De-Sizing De-Size Softener

Function to remove size form Fabric to soften and neutralization

Volume 1800lit 1500lit

pH 8-10 6.5-7.5

For Normal Finish Washing Softener

Function to wash out fabric with detergent to soften and neutralization

Volume 1800lit 1500lit

pH 8-10 6.5-7.5

Both machines are of course having J-tray, Brushing, Singing, Dips and dry canes, Rubber Belt (max. temp-90Co), Palmer and Batcher. The chemical used in this dept. are as under: Chemical Name Caustic Soda 50% Liquid Mercerol QWLF CMS-900 Alka soft 5200 paste Alkasoft HT-100 Alkazyime HSM Formic Acid Description for Flat Finish for mercerization detergent non-ionic softener nano silicon softener concentrated de-sizer for neutralization Brand local Clarient local local local local local

Inspection/Folding
I. The fabric made on loom is in roll form, there for to unwarp roll and then fold it again called folding. In folding department firstly they inspect the fabric giving a certain grade, secondly they fold and finally dispatch as per required During inspection different types of fault are caught which some of them re following

II.

III.

Double picks Miss pick End out Cone change Starting marks Wrong denting Broken end Double end Loose end Tight end Knot mark Oil spot Float Hole tears Balls Hard size Sizing stain Dyeing stain Miss dyeing Slub in weft Coarse pick Slub in warp Coarse end Count variation Loose weft

These are the faults that occur during production and are inspected in folding department on inspection machine.

Conclusion
In Pakistan, textile industry is back boon of the economy of the country. Its contribution to export trade is about 67%. Thus it has export potential; Pakistan has not yet tapped the market for denim as the industry of Pakistan has the capacity to manufacture world class (i.e. export quality) denim fabric & goods made from denim. An analysis shows that the demand of denim goods is higher than the demand of other textile goods made from other fabrics. There is a large export market for denim. Our textile industry can capture large share of export market by exporting its export quality denim. While doing this project we observed that there is an acute shortage of trained professionals & labors in the field of denim manufacturing. In our opinion, at the present time most of the institution are focusing on imparting conventional textile processing know how of the manufacturing of denim. This problem needs to be addressed by revising the syllabuses of the institution; no institutions are well equipped to impart knowledge regarding denim manufacturing process.