Comparative Civilizations 12

The Comparison of Fashion Between Two Eras of Japan

Thesis Report/Personal Project

Emily Barton Period 2

Styles of clothing are based on the surroundings of which the people are placed; the Japanese are known for their dramatic change in fashion from strict, conservative clothing of the Edo period [1] to a more Americanized style during the Meiji period [2]. Things like weather, geography, and culture, or in other words, the environment people live in, controls the fashion of a location. The new acquaintance of westerners highly impacted the Japanese and created many new trends and views in which they had not been exposed to before. All of a sudden they were introduced to advanced technologies, ideologies and fads that represent a more modern version of Japan, as people would recognize today. But before any oversea interactions, the isolation from other countries and cultures protected their refined Japanese ways and their caste system [3] from changing for centuries. The comparison of the two eras, the Edo period and the Meiji
1

period, are almost diverse based off of the transformation recorded in Japanese history. This abysmal transition from a closed country to an adaptive and more open country shows how the nation had been shaped by its environment and surroundings, as a result changing Japans fashion. Although some traditional clothes are still worn in modern Japan, they are mostly for special circumstances and purposes. However, clothes from Edo and Meiji Japan differ greatly, supported by a fascinating explanation of the inheritance of westerners that will be examined thoroughly in this report.

During the Edo period, the Tokugawa [4] enforced a strict dress code inquiring certain classes to wear or not to wear certain materials and clothing. Citizens were told what kind of clothing they should wear foremost by their government. The dictation the Tokugawa demanded from the residents of Japan was tremendously heavy on their shoulders: life had to be endured under the utter control of the highest authority. The hierarchy was obstinate and determined at birth controlling what the people could do a caste system. Merchants were banned from wearing embroidered silk, commoners were authorized the types of designs and materials they used to make clothes, like hemp, ramie and other fibers made from plants, while the samurai [5] were accustomed to the finest of fabrics. Some rulers in the Edo period prepared a predetermined schedule for when the citizens were to switch their wardrobes in accordance to the seasons from winter to summer. Consequences, if these laws were dishonored, were severe and nonnegotiable; opposers to the law were beheaded or tied to a cross in expectance of execution. Although some materials were reserved for a higher class, (all silks were inhibited for samurai only) every person wore a kimono: a long robe with square-cut sleeves, fastened by an obi [6] around the waste. Beneath the kimono, thinner a correlated coloured layers called Nagajuban are
2

worn with a Han-eri (scarf-like collar). A more casual and relaxed garment, worn mostly at home, are Yukatabira (or Yukata) which are loose robes similar to the shape of kimono. Considering all the strict measures that took place in Edo Japan, the people of Japan simply were unaware of the styles and fashions they could have adopted from foreign places. Even though Tokugawa Ieyasus (the military governor of Japan, assigned by the ruler) views on trading with other countries were positive and in fact encouraged in his opinion, the country lacked any foreign contact preventing the nation to look for any change to their culture. Also, the geography in which Japan is completely surrounded by water gave them enough isolation to ignore the surrounding nations civilizations to protect their own national policies. It was not until emperor Meiji reined, that the Tokugawa Shogunate declined and the communication influence of external countries was restored; hence, the alternative name for the Meiji Era: the Meiji Restoration.

The Meiji period was the very beginning to what modern day Japan has evolved into. However, the restoration did not begin until the visit of Commodore Mathew Perry. The first visit in 1852 was arranged by the American president to negotiate a depot for coal on one of the Japanese islands for the benefit of their trans-pacific steamship line. These demands were familiar to the Japanese as such requests were attempted with other western nation in similar situations, but Commodore Perry who carried that letter of consent from the president, had a particular strategy that differed from the rest. The Americans presented their military force intimidating the Japanese with steamships and guns enforcing a threat if the Japanese did not agree with the imposition. Of course, the superiority of the technology the Americans brought with them gave an eye opening realization that perhaps their foreign policy of over two hundred years old was
3

futile and out of date. Two years later, the pressure still increasing, the Americans brought additional gifts for the emperor (toy trains) that enlightened the start of developing new technologies creating the push of industrialization the Japanese desperately required. Soon, an agreement from the bafuku [7] was established with the westerners and that illuminated willingness towards an open country policy that the Japanese (or rather the Tokugawa empire) once despised. When Meiji was appointed the new ruler, all of the changes in society took place; he, unlike his father Komei [8], supported the growing westernization. He embraced the many changes that were taking place (in result of the foreign influence) like the abolition of the feudal land system(1871), the introduction of a new school system (1872), the improved cabinet system of government(1885),opening of the Diet and finally the broadening fashion.

Western culture had taken over Japan; even the Emperor started to dress in western clothes. With the exception of the few who still believed in the Tokugawa ways, the citizens also mimicked the actions their emperor modeled. With heavy impact from the Americans, encouragements for change in peoples daily lives were great and favorable. New laws were introduced as the styles of clothing transformed along with their government: in 1871 the Emperor ordered that western clothing must be worn by high officials during business hours. While men started to wear business suits to work the women would follow the trend and wear western clothing in public but wore traditional clothing at home dresses were impractical for sitting on tatami flooring [9], and western shoes were hard to use when following the custom of removing shoes in a building. As the foreign influence began to increase European styles were also inherited and worn; such as European-style army uniforms, mourning coats, top hats and ball gowns. These shifts in society have shaped Japan over the years to what it has become today as one of the most technologically
4

advanced places in the world. Without the press of other nations the same advancements would not have been made - the progression of modernization which was highly beneficial has been proven to be a great asset in its modern society. In conclusion, the cultivation the country has engaged in since the Meiji Restoration has merely been a result of circumstance initiated by an inheritance of a foreign source. Still, the same concept applies in the modern day where Japan is continuing to evolve to its greatest ability, but now fashion trends are created and proposed from Japan to the rest of the world. Although the Japanese have tried to avoid contamination of culture during the Edo Era, the force of environment in which the people live, have affected the country tremendously.

End Notes 1. Edo period - The period 1603 to 1867. Information from: "Japanese History: Overview." Japanese History: Overview. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 Jan. 2013. 2. Meiji period The period during which Emperor Meiji ruled, 1867 1912, but most recognize this period as the time the Tokugawa were overthrown in January 1868. Information from: p.271, W. G., Beasley. The Japanese Experience: A Short History of Japan. Berkeley: University of California, 1999. Print. 3. Caste system - Umiko, Sasaki. "Western Influences on Meiji, Japan." EHow. Demand Media, 29 Mar. 2010. Web. 07 Feb. 2013. 4. Tokugawa - When I refer to Tokugawa, I am not pertaining to the Emperor Tokugawa Leyasu, but rather the dynasty he created as the ruler of the shogunate (which gave him military control). "Historic Figures: Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542-1616)." BBC News. BBC, n.d. Web. 11 Feb. 2013. 5. Samurai a military class that had their own way of living: the way of the warrior. They were known to be The highest ranking social caste of the Edo period. "Samurai - Japanese Warriors." Samurai - Japanese Warriors. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 Dec. 2012. 6. Obi a sash or belt that held the kimono in place. It is also an item that indicates others of ones age or marital status as well as the persons class depending on the fabric, embroidery, and style of folding. "Morbid Outlook - Traditional Japanese Clothing." Morbid Outlook Traditional Japanese Clothing. N.p., n.d. Web. 08 Feb. 2013. 7. Bafuku - The military government of Japan between 1192 and 1868, headed by the shogun. Quoted material from the following source: "What Was The Bakufu?" About.com Asian History. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 Feb. 2013.

8. Emperor Komei - the 121st emperor of Japan by traditional order of succession: ruled from 1846 1867. Information from: "Emperor Kmei." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 02 Sept. 2013. Web. 3 Feb. 2013. 9. Tatami flooring (or tatami mats) flooing panels used in traditional Japanese homes made from woven rush grass around a straw core. "Quick History: Tatami Mats Retrospect." Apartment Therapy. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 Dec. 2012.

Works Cited "Emperor Kmei." Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, 02 Sept. 2013. Web. 03 Feb. 2013.

"Facts About Japan." Japanese Clothing. N.p., n.d. Web. 03 Feb. 2013.

"Facts and Details." LIFE AND CULTURE IN THE EDO PERIOD (1603-1867). N.p., n.d. Web. 03 Feb. 2013.

"Facts and Details." MARCO POLO, COLUMBUS AND THE FIRST EUROPEANS IN JAPAN. N.p., n.d. Web. 12 Jan. 2013.

"Facts and Details." MEIJI PERIOD (1868-1912): REFORMS, MEIJI CONSTITUTION, WESTERNIZATION, THE EMPEROR AND STATE SHINTO. N.p., n.d. Web. 09 Feb. 2013.

"Historic Figures: Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542-1616)." BBC News. BBC, n.d. Web. 09 Feb. 2013.

"Japanese History: Overview." Japanese History: Overview. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 Feb. 2013.

Keene, Donald. Emperor of Japan: Meiji and His World, 1852-1912. New York: Columbia UP, 2002. Print.

"Kids Web Japan." History of Kimonos. N.p., n.d. Web. 07 Feb. 2013.

"Meiji Modernization." Meiji Modernization. N.p., n.d. Web. 6 Jan. 2013.

"The Meiji Restoration." The Meiji Restoration. N.p., n.d. Web. 6 Jan. 2013.

Moore, Kaelyn. "About Japan Clothing." EHow. Demand Media, 15 June 2010. Web. 07 Feb. 2013.
8

"Morbid Outlook - Traditional Japanese Clothing." Morbid Outlook - Traditional Japanese Clothing. N.p., n.d. Web. 08 Feb. 2013. "Morbid Outlook - Traditional Japanese Clothing." Morbid Outlook - Traditional Japanese Clothing. N.p., n.d. Web. 7 Feb. 2013. Palmer, Andrea. "About Japan's Teen Fashion Style." EHow. Demand Media, 18 Feb. 2009. Web. 07 Feb. 2013. Pietroluongo, Lindsay. "Information on Japanese Clothing." EHow. Demand Media, 20 June 2010. Web. 20 Feb. 2013. "Quick History: Tatami Mats Retrospect." Apartment Therapy. N.p., n.d. Web. 11 Dec. 2012.

"Samurai - Japanese Warriors." Samurai - Japanese Warriors. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Jan. 2013.

Sasaki, Umiko. "Western Influences on Meiji, Japan." EHow. Demand Media, 29 Mar. 2010. Web. 08 Feb. 2013. "What Was The Bakufu?" About.com Asian History. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 Feb. 2013. W. G., Beasley. The Japanese Experience: A Short History of Japan. Berkeley: University of California, 1999. Print.