Get the look of knitted fabricwith the ease of crochet!

Crochet

ULTIMATE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO

TUNISIAN

CROCHET
INCLUDED:
Clear Instructions Photos of all Stitches and Techniques 9 Beautiful Projects

by Kim Guzman

ULTIMATE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO

CROCHET
These fashions are elegant, with the ne texture and appearance of knitwearbut theyre not knitted! Theyre made with Tunisian crochet. Award-winning teacher Kim Guzman presents nine fresh designs for you to explore. Learn the skills you need to make a scarf and advance through a hat, ruana, cowl, crib cover, duffel bag, and more. Kim walks you through the basics and takes you through each step with clear photos and friendly instructions. If you like the ease of working with a crochet hook, but admire the look and feel of knitted fabric, youll love learning Tunisian crochet.

TUNISIAN

TABLE OF CONTENTS
What is Tunisian Crochet? .........3 It Looks Just Like Knitting! .........3 The Tunisian Crochet Hook .......4 Getting Started ..........................6 Anatomy of Tunisian Crochet Stitches ........................7 Learning the Stitches ................7 Additional Techniques .............11 Stockinette Scarf ....................14 Stockinette Hat .......................16 Seed Stitch Ruana ..................18 Drop Stitch Cowl ....................21 Diagonal Hearts Crib Cover.....24 Felted Duffel............................28
LEISURE ARTS, INC. Little Rock, Arkansas

Cabled Mitts ...........................34 Hoodie Vest ...........................38 Mitered Vest ...........................44 General Instructions ................49 Yarn Information .....................51 Hook Sources .........................51

KIM GUZMAN

lls each day with

creativity. Whether shes knitting or crocheting a new design or working on a new canning experiment with the fruit and vegetables she grows at her home in Arkansas, she fullls a lifelong dreamendless creative ventures in a lovely country setting with her family close at hand. Her mother likes to call Kim the garden paparazzi when she rushes out to take photos of owers, fruit, vegetables, and beautiful butteries.
Photo by Scott C. Campbell

The design work that helps Kim realize this dream has won several awards, including eight Flamies from the Crochet Liberation Front. One of these was the 2011 award for Best Teacher. Kim has authored several pattern books, and her designs have appeared in yarn craft magazines. Kim says, My goal is to produce crocheted items which more closely resemble knitted garments. Even my ribbed garments are designed to specically avoid bulkiness. See more of Kims creations at KimaneDesigns.net and CrochetKim.com. She maintains a blog called WIPs N Chains at KimGuzman.wordpress.com and is an active member of Ravelry.com.

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ULTIMATE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO

CROCHET
Would you like to learn a technique thats quick and easy? Are you a crocheter or knitter whos looking to expand your skills? Tunisian crochet is easy to learn. It's so simple, its a breeze to memorize and master in no time. You can be on your way with a project in as little as 30 minutes!

TUNISIAN
WHAT IS TUNISIAN CROCHET?
You can think of Tunisian crochet as crochet that looks like knitting. With traditional crochet, each stitch is made separately. It is started and nished. In Tunisian crochet, you start all the stitches in a row in the rst pass and close all the stitches in the second pass, also called a return. If you already know how to make a single crochet, you already know how to Tunisian crochet!

IT LOOKS JUST LIKE KNITTING!

The projects in this book were intentionally made to mimic the look of knitting. My focus is to show an entirely new look in crochet that will appeal to crocheters and knitters, as well as those who have never knit or crocheted. You can nish a Tunisian crochet project that looks like knitting in much less time than it would take you to knit it!

Fig. 1

THE TUNISIAN CROCHET HOOK

With Tunisian crochet, you are working an entire row without closing the stitches, the stitches remain live on your hook. For most projects, this requires a special crochet hook that is longer than a traditional hook. The most commonly used hook in Tunisian crochet is a 14" (35.5 cm) aluminum hook. It looks exactly like a knitting needle, complete with the metal stopper on one end. However, instead of a point at the other end, it has a hook (Fig. 1). For all the projects in this book you use a 10" to 22" (25.5 cm to 56 cm) hook. In the past decade, though, there have been great strides in making new tools and products accessible to Tunisian crocheters (Fig. 2). Boye MoEz Since the number of stitches has to be considered in choosing a hook, there are hooks available with a nylon cord attached for wider projects. A project width can be about three times the length of the hook, depending on the yarn used. The Stockinette Scarf and Cabled Mitts use a 10" (25.5 cm) Tunisian hook because of the small amount of stitches. Projects with more stitches will require a longer Tunisian hook.

Fig. 2

Susan Bates

Boye Easy Tunisian

Pony Circular

Boye Cable

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Short Tunisian crochet hooks (10" to 12") (25.5cm to 30.5 cm) can be used for small projects, such as dishcloths, scarves, and hats. If the projects are wider, such as sweaters, duffel bags, crib covers, and large afghans, you will need to use a longer hook (14" to 22") (35.5 cm to 56 cm). A Tunisian hook with plastic cord is used for such projects. Included in the photo, page 4, are some of the variations of hooks that can be used for Tunisian crochet. If you have a small project, a traditional crochet hook without a thumb rest can be used. Simply wrap a rubber band around one end to hold the stitches on the hook. There are several manufacturers making interchangeable hook sets (Fig. 3). Hook heads of the various sizes are included and various cable lengths can be attached, depending on the width of your project. When you are looking at hooks, you may also notice a doubleended Tunisian hook (Fig. 4). These can be used for regular Tunisian crochet simply by adding a rubber band to one end.

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5

GETTING STARTED
You will need some medium weight yarn (it may have a #4 on the label) and a 10" (25.5 cm) Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) to begin. We will take you through the Anatomy of Tunisian Crochet Stitches. Then, the rst stitch you'll learn is the Tunisian Simple Stitch, you will begin here and continue through the rst column on page 8. Like traditional crochet, you will start with a chain. To learn and practice the stitches, chain 15.

When working in Tunisian crochet, you will always use an overhand hold. Imagine yourself holding a bicycle handlebar (Fig. 6). Now youre ready to begin your Foundation Row!

Fig. 6

FOUNDATION ROW (FORWARD PASS)

Tunisian crochet projects will begin with a Foundation Row. Skip the rst chain and insert your hook into the horizontal bar of the second chain from hook, yarn over and pull the loop through. You will now have two loops on your hook (Fig. 7). Continue to insert your hook into each remaining horizontal bar across and pulling up loops until you have pulled up a loop in each chain (Fig. 8). You will have the same number of loops as your beginning chain: 15 loops. To ensure that you have pulled up a loop in each chain, count your loops. You should count your loops for each row until you become comfortable with Tunisian crochet.

Fig. 7 You may nd making a chain with your Tunisian hook awkward due to its length. Use the same size standard hook to make your chain, then change to the Tunisian hook once the chain is complete. Fig. 8 Remember to keep your chains loose! If you tend to make your chains tight, try going up one or two hook sizes for the chain. To maintain a nice edge, you will be working into the back horizontal bar of your chain (sometimes called back ridge). If you turn the chain over, you will see this horizontal bar (Fig. 5). If you have trouble getting your hook under the bar, try using the thumb and forenger of your non-hook hand to grasp it and pull it up a little so that your hook can be inserted. 6 www.leisurearts.com

CLOSE (RETURN PASS)

To begin to close the loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through one loop on hook. This beginning step is a chain 1 (Fig. 9). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook. Repeat until you have one loop remaining on the hook (Fig. 10).

After completing your Foundation Row, do not turn your work. Unless the pattern indicates, you do not turn in Tunisian crochet.

Fig. 9

LEARNING THE STITCHES

TUNISIAN SIMPLE STITCH (abbreviated tss)
See Fig. 12 for a swatch with right side of tss facing. This stitch is often called afghan stitch and is the most common of all Tunisian crochet stitches. Note: The contrasting color of yarn is used in the following gs so that you may see and identify the stitches being made. It is not necessary to change color at this time. Always skip the rst vertical bar of the row. It is holding the last loop on the hook from the previous Closing. Although it is considered a stitch, it is not worked and the loop on the hook counts as the rst stitch (Fig. 13). Fig. 10

ANATOMY OF TUNISIAN CROCHET STITCHES

You should now inspect your work thoroughly so you can become familiar with its different features. Stretch the top and bottom of the row apart so that you can see the stitches more clearly. The front vertical bar for each stitch goes up into the chain and back down the other side (Fig. 11). Distinguishing between these bars is important when working different Tunisian stitches.

vertical bars

Fig. 11

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

rst vertical bar

Fig. 14

Insert your hook from right to left for right handed crocheters (or left to right for left handed crocheters) under the next front vertical bar (Fig. 14). Yarn over (by wrapping the yarn around the hook from back to front) and pull a loop through. Work across to the last stitch (Fig. 15). If you look closely at the last stitch, you will see that its a little different. Its not just one vertical bar that goes up and down the back, but three strands. Remember the chain 1 made at the beginning of the Closing of the Foundation Row on page 7? This is that chain-1. To work the last stitch, insert your hook into the chain under both bars as indicated by the arrow in Fig 15. You should have two bars on your hook (Fig. 16). Yarn over and pull the loop through the last st: 15 loops. To close your stitches, yarn over and pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) across: one loop.

TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH

(abbreviated tks) See Fig. 17 for a swatch with right side of tks facing. Fig. 18 is the same swatch with the wrong side of tks facing. An overall patterning of Tunisian Knit Stitch will look just like handknit stockinette stitch from the right side. The tell-tale sign that it is Tunisian crochet is the ridges on the wrong side. Like handknit stockinette stitch, the edges will tend to curl. To begin a new swatch, chain 15. Skip the rst chain and insert your hook into the horizontal bar of the second chain from hook, yarn over and pull the loop through. Continue to insert your hook into each remaining horizontal bar across until you have pulled up a loop in each chain: 15 loops. Yarn over and pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) across: one loop. Look closely at your stitches. See the front vertical bar going up and into the chain and then back down in the back of your work (Fig. 19, page 9). It is important that you insert your hook between the two bars of each stitch.

Fig. 15

Fig. 16

Fig. 17

Fig. 18

Practice tss for a few inches. To nish off, cut yarn leaving about an 8" (20.5 cm) end, pull end through loop and tighten.

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I have always liked to call this Going Under the Rainbow. Ensure that you are making the stitches under the rainbow and not between the rainbows. Skip the rst vertical bar, insert your hook from the front of your work to the back of your work between the front and back vertical bars of the next stitch (Fig. 20). Yarn over and pull the loop through. Continue to pull up a loop in each st across: 15 loops. To close your stitches, yarn over and pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) across: one loop. Practice tks for a few inches; nish off.

Although they dont have the same look, you can use either stitch in a project where a hand-knit purl look is desired. TUNISIAN PURL STITCH (abbreviated tps) See Fig. 21 for a swatch with right side of tps facing.

Front Back Chain

Fig. 19
Rainbow

Front

To begin a new swatch, chain 15. Skip the rst chain and insert your hook into the horizontal bar of the second chain from hook, yarn over and pull the loop through. Continue to insert your hook into each remaining horizontal bar across until you have pulled up a loop in each chain: 15 loops. To close your stitches, yarn over and pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) across: one loop. Hold the yarn to the front of your work. Skip rst vertical bar, insert your hook right to left for right handed crocheters (or left to right for left handed crocheters) under the next vertical bar. Yarn over and pull the loop through (Fig. 22, page 10).

Fig. 20

Back

Fig. 21

TUNISIAN PURL AND REVERSE STITCHES

The Tunisian Purl Stitch and the Tunisian Reverse Stitch are used frequently at the beginning of a project to prevent the edges from curling. A piece worked in Tunisian Purl Stitch is at and resembles hand-knit Reverse Stockinette Stitch (Fig. 21). A piece worked in Tunisian Reverse Stitch is ridged, resembling hand-knit Garter Stitch (Fig. 23, page 10).

Fig. 22

Essentially, what you have created is a Tunisian Simple Stitch, except you have forced the yarn to wrap around the front vertical bar, forming what could be considered a hand-knit purl bump. Continue to pull up a loop in each st across: 15 loops. To close your stitches, yarn over and pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) across: one loop. Practice tps for a few inches; nish off. TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH (abbreviated trs) See Fig. 23 for a swatch with right side of trs facing. Tunisian Reverse Stitch (also called reverse afghan stitch) is worked from right to left for right handed crocheters (or left to right for left handed crocheters) under the back vertical bar, so the chain falls toward the front or right side of your work. To begin a new swatch, chain 15. Skip the rst chain and insert your hook into the horizontal bar of the second chain from hook, yarn over and pull the loop through.

Continue to insert your hook into each remaining horizontal bar across until you have pulled up a loop in each chain: 15 loops. To close your stitches, yarn over and pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) across: one loop. With the yarn to the back of your work, skip the rst vertical bar. Insert your hook from the back of your work, from right to left for right handed crocheters (or left to right for left handed crocheters) under the next back vertical bar, yarn over and pull a loop through (Fig. 24). Continue to pull up a loop in each st across: 15 loops. To close your stitches, yarn over and pull through one loop on hook, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) across: one loop. Practice trs for a few inches; nish off.

Fig. 23

Fig. 24

Fig. 25

TUNISIAN EXTENDED STITCH (abbreviated tes)

See Fig. 25 for a swatch with right side of tes facing. To begin a new swatch, chain 15. Skip the rst chain and insert your hook into the horizontal bar of the second chain from hook, yarn over and pull the loop through.

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Continue to insert your hook into each remaining horizontal bar across until you have pulled up a loop in each chain: 15 loops.

ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES
DECREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET

Fig. 26

There are several methods of To close your stitches, yarn over decreasing in Tunisian crochet. and pull through one loop on hook, We will instruct you on the (yarn over and pull through 2 loops two most popular decreases: on hook) across: one loop. the knit 2 together and the reverse knit 2 together. Skip the rst vertical bar, insert your hook from the front of your work KNIT 2 TOGETHER to the back of your work between (abbreviated k2tog) the front and back vertical bars of Insert your hook from the front of the next stitch. your work to the back of your work between the front and back vertical Yarn over and pull the loop bars of the next 2 stitches (Fig. 28). through. Then, chain 1 (or yarn Yarn over and pull the loop through over and pull through the loop on to decrease one stitch. your hook) (Fig. 26). Continue to pull up a loop in each st across: 15 loops.

Fig. 27

Fig. 28

REVERSE KNIT 2 TOGETHER

(abbreviated revk2tog) Skip one stitch, using your hook, To close your stitches, yarn over pull the front vertical bar of next and pull through one loop on hook, stitch until it is on top of the skipped (yarn over and pull through 2 loops stitch (Fig. 29), then insert your on hook) across: one loop. hook from the front of your work to the back of your work between the Practice tes for a few inches; now front and back vertical bars of both we'll learn how to bind off. the stitches, yarn over and pull a loop through. This decreases one BINDING OFF stitch. Insert your hook from right to left for right handed crocheters (or left Gently stretching the stitches and to right for left handed crocheters) holding the skipped stitch at with under the second vertical bar your non-hook hand may help in from hook. Yarn over and pull the making your decrease. Then pull the loop through both loops on hook next stitch over the skipped stitch. (Fig. 27). Work across until one loop remains on hook; nish off.

Fig. 29

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Fig. 30

INCREASING IN TUNISIAN CROCHET YARN OVER

(abbreviated YO) A yarn over is simply that, made by either placing the hook under the yarn or by wrapping the yarn from front to back over the hook. It creates a hole or eyelet, (Fig. 30) and increases the number of stitches by one stitch.

Fig. 31

If you wish to change colors at the end of a row, once you have completed all your stitches but before closing, drop the old yarn, yarn over and pull through one loop on hook (Fig. 33), (yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook) across: one loop. Again, leave at least a 6" (15 cm) strand of yarn to weave in later.

MAKE ONE (abbreviated M1)

A Make One is executed by inserting your hook from front to back under the yarn over created in the prior row (Fig. 31) and increases the number of stitches by one stitch.

2-COLOR AND 3-COLOR TECHNIQUES

Color changes can be used to add interest to simple stitch patterns. If a striped effect is desired, change colors at the beginning of each row. Carry the unused color along the side edge. The swatch in Fig. 34 is worked in Tunisian Knit Stitch. An interesting alternative to changing color at the beginning of a row is to change colors before closing each row. Always begin closing your stitches with a different color. The swatch in Fig. 35, page 13 is worked in a seed stitch pattern with Tunisian Knit Stitch and Tunisian Reverse Stitch. With the 3-Color Technique, you change to a new color at the beginning and before closing each row. The swatch in Fig. 36, page 13 is also worked in a Seed Stitch pattern as in Fig. 35, page 13, but with 3 colors instead of 2 colors.

Fig. 32

ADDING NEW BALL OF YARN OR CHANGING COLORS

It is best to add a new ball of yarn at the end or beginning of a row. By adding at the end of a row, the yarn will end up at a seam and will not be visible on the nished piece. If you wish to change colors at the beginning of a row, close your stitches until 2 loops remain on your hook. Drop the old yarn and with the new yarn (Fig. 32), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook. Be sure to leave at least a 6" (15 cm) end to weave in later.

Fig. 33

Fig. 34

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FINISHING
SEAMING
When seaming along the ends of the rows, use your yarn needle to go under the 2 bars of the Tunisian Knit Stitches on each side (Fig. 37). Try not to pull your seaming stitches too tightly as this will cause the fabric to buckle. You want your rows to sit together next to each other as though they are within the row. When seaming across the last row, in the same manner, use your needle to go under the 2 bars of the Tunisian Knit Stitches (Figs. 38a & b). This will cause the chain to be pushed to the wrong side of your work.

Because everyone crochets differentlyloosely, tightly, or somewhere in betweenthe nished size can vary when the crocheters use the very same pattern, yarn, and hook. Before starting a project, it's absolutely necessary for you to crochet a swatch in the pattern stitch with the yarn and hook suggested. Since you will want to measure a at area of the swatch, you will need to chain a few more stitches than the actual gauge and also work a few more rows. EXAMPLE A pattern calls for a medium weight yarn and size K Tunisian hook (6.5 cm) to achieve a gauge of 12 tks and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm). Chain 16. Work in tks for 17 rows, then cut yarn. Lay your swatch on a hard, smooth, at surface. Measure to see if you have 12 tks and 13 rows in a 4" (10 cm ) square. If your swatch is smaller than 4" (10 cm) square, you are crocheting too tightlytry again with a larger size hook. If it is larger than 4" (10 cm), you are crocheting too looselytry again with a smaller size hook. Tip: Keep track of the hook size and yarn weight for your pattern in case your hook becomes AWOL from that project.

Fig. 35

Fig. 36

Fig. 37

TIPS
A LOOPY FIRST STITCH OF THE ROW To avoid a loose rst stitch, insert your hook to make the stitch and pull the yarn taut before yarning over, then continue with your stitch. COUNTING THE ROWS It is easiest to count your rows along the side edge at the beginning of each row (Fig. 40).

Fig. 38a

Fig. 38b

GAUGE
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows in every inch of your crocheting and is used to control the nished size. Most patterns specify the gauge, or tension, that the designer usedand that you must match to get the proper size.

Fig. 40

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stockinette

SCARF
The Scarf is worked from one end to the other end. Then the end of the rows are seamed, each end is gathered and a tassel is added. Finished Size: 6" wide x 60" long (15 cm x 152.5 cm) (excluding Tassels) MATERIALS Medium Weight Yarn [3 ounces, 185 yards (85 grams, 170 meters) per skein]: 4 skeins Minimum length of 10" (25.5 cm) Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) or size needed for gauge Yarn needle

GAUGE: 12 tks and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8.

Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to curl; once the Scarf is seamed, the fabric will relax.

SCARF
Leaving a long end for sewing, ch 36. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close: 36 sts.

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Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Repeat Row 1 until Scarf measures approximately 60" (152.5 cm) from beginning ch. Bind Off Row: Skip rst vertical bar, inserting hook as for tks work slip st across, nish off leaving a long end for sewing.

With wrong side together, fold Scarf in half lengthwise and seam end of rows (Fig. 37, page 13). Thread yarn needle with long beginning end. Weave needle through chs, gather tightly and secure end. Thread yarn needle with long end at end of last row. Weave needle through sts, gather tightly and secure end.

TASSEL (Make 2)
Cut a piece of cardboard 3" (7.5 cm) wide and as long as you want your nished tassel to be. Wind a double strand of yarn around the cardboard approximately 48 times. Cut an 18" (45.5 cm) length of yarn and insert it under all of the strands at the top of the cardboard; pull up tightly and tie securely. Leave the yarn ends long enough to attach the tassel. Cut the yarn at the opposite end of the cardboard and then remove it (Fig. A). Cut a 6" (15 cm) length of yarn and wrap it tightly around the tassel twice, 1" (2.5 cm) below the top (Fig. B); tie securely. Trim the ends. Attach one Tassel to each end of Scarf. Fig. A Fig. B

stockinette

HAT
The Hat is made at, starting with the Band which is worked vertically. Stitches are then picked up along the end of the rows, worked toward top center of Hat and seamed together. Finished Head Circumference: 20" (52 cm) at band (unstretched) MATERIALS Medium Weight Yarn [3 ounces, 185 yards (85 grams, 170 meters) per skein]: 2 skeins Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook, size J (6 mm) or size needed for gauge Standard crochet hook, size F (3.75 mm) or size needed for gauge Yarn needle

GAUGES In slip st pattern, with standard crochet hook, 7 slip sts = 1" (2.5 cm); 35 rows = 4" (10 cm) In tks pattern, with Tunisian hook, 15 tks and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8. KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11.

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BAND
With standard crochet hook, ch 8. Row 1: Slip st in horizontal bar of second ch from hook (Fig 42, page 50) and each ch across (Fig 5, page 6): 7 slip sts. If the last st of a slip st row is too loose, work the last st in both loops instead of only the back loop. Rows 2-180: Turn; slip st in Back Loop Only of each st across (Fig. 40, page 50); do not nish off.

BODY
Row 1 (Right side): With Tunisian hook and working in end of rows, pick up 89 sts evenly spaced across, close: 90 tss. If you are having trouble inserting the Tunisian hook into the end of the rows, use the standard crochet hook to pull up the yarn and place it onto the Tunisian hook. Rows 2-20: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Row 21: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, (work 7 tks, k2tog) 9 times, work 6 tks, close: 80 sts. Row 22: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, (work 6 tks, k2tog) 9 times, work 5 tks, close: 70 sts. Row 23: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, (work 5 tks, k2tog) 9 times, work 4 tks, close: 60 sts. Row 24: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, (work 4 tks, k2tog) 9 times, work 3 tks, close: 50 sts. Row 25: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, (work 3 tks, k2tog) 9 times, work 2 tks, close: 40 sts. Row 26: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, (work 2 tks, k2tog) 9 times, work tks, close: 30 sts. Row 27: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, (work tks, k2tog) 9 times, close: 20 sts. Row 28: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks, (k2tog, work tks) 6 times, close: 14 sts. Row 29: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog 7 times, close: 7 sts. Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as for tks, slip st across; nish off leaving a long end for sewing.

Thread yarn needle with long end. Weave needle through sts on Bind Off Row, gather tightly and secure end; with same yarn, weave seam (Fig. 37, page 13). 17

seed stitch

RUANA
The Ruana is made in one piece from Back bottom edge to Front bottom edges. Stitches are picked up across end of the rows for the Trims. Finished Size: One size ts most MATERIALS Bulky Weight Yarn [3.5 ounces, 187 yards (100 grams, 172 meters) per skein]: Variegated - 8 skeins Medium Weight Yarn [3 ounces, 154 yards (85 grams, 141 meters) per skein]: Green - 3 skeins Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) or size needed for gauge

GAUGE: With Variegated and in Seed Stitch (tks, trs), 11 sts and 12 rows = 4" (10 cm) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8. TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH, page 10.

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The Ruana is constructed of seed stitch because of the fabrics unique back which is equally as beautiful as the front (Figs. A & B). Fig. A

Fig. B

17"

13"

SECOND FRONT
271/2" FRONT FRONT Row 1: Skip next 26 sts on Row 79 from Back and join Variegated with slip st in vertical bar (counts as rst tks), work trs, (work tks, work trs) 16 times, work 2 tks, close: 36 sts. Complete same as First Front. 54"

TRIMS
Trim may curl slightly and require a small amount of wet blocking. BACK

SIDE EDGE
261/2" Row 1: With right side facing, using Green, and working in end of rows, pick up a loop in end of each row across one outer edge, close: 162 sts. Rows 2-8: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks, (work 2 trs, work 2 tks) across, close. Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as for tks, slip st across; nish off. Repeat across opposite outer edge.

351/2" 391/2"

BACK
With Variegated, ch 98. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close: 98 sts. Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks, (work trs, work tks) across, close. Row 2: Skip rst vertical bar, work trs, (work tks, work trs) across to last 2 sts, work 2 tks, close. Rows 3-79: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 38 times; then repeat Row 1 once more; do not nish off. 20 www.leisurearts.com

FIRST FRONT
Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work trs, (work tks, work trs) 16 times, work 2 tks, leave remaining 62 sts unworked, close: 36 sts. Row 2: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks, (work trs, work tks) across, close. Row 3: Skip rst vertical bar, work trs, (work tks, work trs) across to last 2 sts, work 2 tks, close. Rows 4-82: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, 39 times; then repeat Row 2 once more. Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as for tks, slip st across; nish off.

INNER EDGE
Row 1: With right side facing, using Green, and working in end of rows, pick up a loop in end of each row across First Front, work 26 tks across unworked sts on Row 79 of Back, pull up a loop in end of each row of across Second Front, close: 190 sts. Rows 2-8: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks, (work 2 trs, work 2 tks) across, close. Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as for trs, slip st across; nish off.

COWL
The Cowl is worked from the bottom edge to the top edge. Finished Size: 52" circumference x 16" tall (132 cm x 40.5 cm) MATERIALS Light Weight Yarn [3.5 ounces, 365 yards (100 grams, 334 meters) per hank]: 2 hanks For best results, use a 100% natural ber. Minimum length of 22" (56 cm) Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) or size needed for gauge Clean towel Yarn needle

drop stitch

Gauge: In pattern, 12 sts = 4" (10 cm); 9 rows = 3" (9 cm) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8. YARN OVER, page 12.

21

COWL
Ch 156. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close: 156 sts. Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Row 2 Step A: (YO, work tks) across: 311 loops. Step B: Close as follows: ch 2, # carefully remove last loop from hook with non-stitching hand, slip YO off hook, place loop back onto hook, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from # across until one loop remains on hook: 156 sts. Row 3: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to ch 2, work tks in top of ch-2, close. Row 4: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Tug gently on the piece to even out the elongated stitches. Rows 5-39: Repeat Rows 2-4, 11 times; then Rows 2 and 3 once more. Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as for tks, sc across, nish off.

FINISHING
Completely immerse in cool water, squeeze gently, then roll in a clean towel to remove excess water. Lay Cowl on at surface, being careful to smooth out and allow to dry completely, or block as desired. With wrong sides together and matching rows, sew end of rows together to form a ring.

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diagonal hearts

CRIB COVER
The Crib Cover is worked by following the chart on pages 26 and 27. Finished Size: 39" x 42" (99 cm x 106.5 cm) MATERIALS Light Weight Yarn [5 ounces, 459 yards (141 grams, 420 meters) per skein]: 4 skeins Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) or size needed for gauge Standard crochet hook, size G (4 mm)

GAUGE: With Tunisian hook, 15 sts and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8. TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH page 10.

The rst row of the chart is the foundation row, and the rst column of the chart is the rst loop on the hook. The white squares are worked as Tunisian Knit Stitch and the shaded squares are worked as Tunisian Reverse Stitch. The chart is worked from right to left for all rows for right handed crocheters and left to right for left handed crocheters.

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25

160

150

140

130

120

BODY
With Tunisian hook, ch 143. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close: 143 sts. Rows 1-5: Skip rst vertical bar, work trs across, close. Rows 6-163: Follow Chart; do not nish off.

TRIM
Rnd 1: With standard crochet hook, ch 1; working as for trs across Row 164, 3 sc in rst st, sc in each st across to last st, 3 sc in last st; sc evenly across end of rows; working in free loops of beginning ch (Fig. 41, page 50), 3 sc in rst ch, sc in each ch across to last ch, 3 sc in ch; sc evenly across end of rows; join with slip st to Back Loop Only of rst sc (Fig. 40, page 50). See Basic Crochet Stitches, page 50. Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in Back Loops Only, sc in each sc around working 3 sc in center sc of each corner 3-sc group; join with slip st to both loops of rst sc, nish off.

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KEY

- trs - tks

110

100

90

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

27

DUFFEL
The Body of the Duffel is worked from the bottom center horizontally toward the top on the First Side. Stitches are then picked up on the opposite side of the beginning ch and worked toward the top for the Second Side. Finished Size: 15" long x 9" high (38 cm x 23 cm) (after felting, not including handles) Measurements are approximate as felting results will differ depending on the amount of desired felting, the type of yarn used, and even the colors used. MATERIALS 100% non-superwash Wool Medium Weight Yarn [3.5 ounces, 220 yards (100 grams, 201 meters) per hank]: Taupe - 3 hanks Green - 2 hanks Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook, size L (8 mm) or size needed for gauge Standard crochet hook, size G (4 mm) or size needed for gauge " (19 mm) Round shank buttons - 2 Sewing needle and matching thread Yarn needle

felted

GAUGE: With Tunisian hook, 12 tks and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm) (before felting) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

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29

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN SIMPLE STITCH, page 7. TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8. KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11. REVERSE KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11.

Rows 14-116: Repeat Rows 1-13, 7 times; then repeat Rows 1-12 once more (a total of 9 wedges completed): 3 tks. Row 117: Skip rst vertical bar, working as for tks across, slip st in each skipped st at end of each row across; nish off.

Row 2: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close changing to Taupe in last st. Row 3: Skip rst vertical bar, slip next st onto hook, # work 3 tks, slip next st onto hook; repeat from # across to last st, work tks in last st, close changing to Green in last st. Row 4: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close changing to Taupe in last st. Rows 5-58: Repeat Rows 1-4, 13 times; then repeat Rows 1 and 2 once more, do not change colors at end of Row 58. Finish off.

Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to curl; but the Duffels construction and felting will relax the fabric.

BODY
FIRST SIDE
With Tunisian hook and using Green, ch 51.

END (Make 2)
With Tunisian hook, using Taupe, and leaving a long end for sewing, ch 15. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close: 15 sts. Rows 1-12: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to last st, leave last st unworked, close: 3 tks. Row 13: Skip rst vertical bar, work 2 tks, work tks in each skipped st at end of each row across, close (wedge completed): 15 tks. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across, close changing to Taupe in last st (see Changing Colors, page 12): 51 sts. When pattern indicates to slip next st onto hook, insert hook as for Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss), hold the stitch there on the hook and move on to the next stitch. The stitch is not actually worked; it is simply placed on the hook. Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work 2 tks, # slip next st onto hook, work 3 tks; repeat from # across, close changing to Green in last st.

SECOND SIDE
Foundation Row: With right side of Body facing and working in free loops of beginning ch (Fig. 41, page 50), with Tunisian hook and using Green, pull up a loop in each ch across, close changing to Taupe in last st: 51 sts. Complete same as First Side: 51 tks.

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HANDLE (Make 2)
With Tunisian hook and using Taupe, ch 70. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across, close: 70 sts. Rows 1-4: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Joining Row: Skip rst vertical bar, working in tks on Row 4 and in free loops of beginning ch, slip st in each st across; nish off.

Trim: With wrong sides together, hold one End and Body together with End towards you. Using standard crochet hook, working through both thicknesses, and matching rows, join Green with slip st in rst row; ch 1, work reverse sc evenly around (Figs. A-D); join with slip st to rst st, nish off. Repeat for remaining End. Thread yarn needle with long beginning end of End, weave needle through sts, gather tightly and secure end. With same yarn and wrong sides together, sew Row 117 to beginning ch; secure end. Thread yarn needle with 12" (30.5 cm) strand of Green. Sew First Side and Second Side together through rst 11 sts on top edge of Body. Repeat with last 11 sts. Insert Handles between the stitches approximately 5 rows down and 5 stitches from each edge on Body. Tie a knot in each end of Handle on inside of bag. Stitch each Handle in place to keep it from slipping out of the stitch during the felting process.

Fig. A

Fig. B

ASSEMBLY
The joining is worked on the right side of the work to form a decorative edge. REVERSE SINGLE CROCHET (abbreviated reverse sc) Working from left to right, # insert hook in st to right of hook (Fig. A), YO and draw through, under and to left of loop on hook (2 loops on hook) (Fig. B), YO and draw through both loops on hook (Fig. C) (reverse sc made, Fig. D); repeat from # around.

Fig. C

Fig. D

31

7"

3"

FLAP

FIRST SIDE

18"

Direction worked

Beginning chain

Direction worked

18" SECOND SIDE

17" Note: All measurements are before felting. 10" END

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FLAP
Row 1: With Tunisian hook, using Green, and working in unused tks at opening, pull up a loop in each tks, close: 29 tks. Rows 2-5: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Rows 6-9: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: 21 tks. Row 10: Step A: Skip rst vertical bar, work 2 tks, working as for tks, slip st in next 3 tks (buttonhole), work tks across to last 4 sts, working as for tks, slip st in next 3 tks (buttonhole), work tks in last st. Step B: Ch 1, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook, ch 1, (YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) 11 times, ch 1, YO and pull through last 3 loops on hook; nish off.

HAND FELTING
To felt your project, youll need a sink full of hot water and a small bit of liquid dishwashing soap. The water doesnt need to be boiling. Usually, hot water right out of the tap will be sufcient. Completely immerse your project in the hot water. You will see the stitches become very loose. Pay attention to the handles of your bag because they can come out of the stitch they are inserted through until your project is completely felted. Now, youll need agitation. You can use your hands or an object such as a wooden or plastic spoon. If using a wooden spoon, make sure the edges are all smooth. You can use rubber gloves if the water is too hot for you to handle. Move your project around in the water, pulling it up, plunging it down. Swish it around. Pretend you are hand washing an item of clothing.

If you become tired, simply leave the project in the hot water. Once the water has cooled, empty and rell it. You should start feeling a difference in the fabric. By the third or fourth rell, your project will be completely felted. Rinse your project and roll in a clean towel to remove excess water before shaping to dry.

FINISHING
Shape bag as desired. Fill with plastic bags to help Bag keep its shape. Allow to dry completely. Attach buttons adjacent to buttonholes.

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cabled

MITTS
The Mitts are made at, starting with the wrist which is worked vertically. Stitches are then picked up along the end of rows and worked toward the ngers; then the end of rows are seamed. Finished Size: 10" (25.5 cm) circumference at widest point x 5" (14 cm) height MATERIALS Medium Weight Yarn [3 ounces, 132 yards (85 grams, 121 meters) per skein]: Red - 1 skein OR [3 ounces, 154 yards (85 grams, 141 meters) per skein]: Green - 1 skein Minimum length of 10" (25.5 cm) Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) or size needed for gauge Standard crochet hook, size K (6.5 mm) or size needed for gauge Cable needles - 2 Yarn needle

GAUGE: With standard crochet hook, 4 slip sts = 1" (2.5 cm); 20 rows = 4" (10 cm) with Tunisian hook, 13 tks and 14 rows = 4" (10 cm) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

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35

Fig. A

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8. KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11. CABLE When working a Cable Crossing, the stitches are being removed from the hook, re-positioned, then placed back on the hook to work. Use care when working a row after a Cable Crossing. If necessary, pull up on the previous row of stitches to separate them and ensure that no stitches are missed.

HAND
Row 1 (Right side): With Tunisian hook and working in end of rows, skip rst row, pull up a loop in next row and in each row across, close: 33 tss. If you have trouble inserting the Tunisian hook into the end of the rows, use a smaller size standard crochet hook to pull up the yarn and place it onto the Tunisian hook. Rows 2 and 3: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Row 4: Skip rst vertical bar, work 17 tks, [slip last 3 tks made onto rst cable needle and hold at back of work, slip next 3 tks made onto second cable needle and hold at front of work (Fig. A), slip sts from rst cable needle at back onto hook (Fig. B); then slip sts from second cable needle at front onto hook (Cable Crossing made)], work tks across, close. Rows 5-8: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close.

Fig. B

FIRST MITT
WRIST
With standard crochet hook, ch 5. Row 1: Slip st in horizontal bar of second ch from hook (Fig 42, page 50) and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6): 4 slip sts. Rows 2-33: Ch 1, turn; slip st in Back Loop Only of each st across (Fig. 40, page 50); do not nish off.

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Row 9 (Thumb opening): Skip rst vertical bar, inserting hook as for k2tog work slip st, [inserting hook as for tks work slip st, inserting hook as for k2tog work slip st] twice (thumb opening) (one loop on hook), work 9 tks, work Cable Crossing using previous 6 tks, work tks across, close: 25 tks. Rows 10-13: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Row 14: Skip rst vertical bar, work 9 tks, work Cable Crossing using previous 6 tks, work tks across, close. Rows 15-17: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Bind Off Row: Skip rst vertical bar, [inserting hook as for k2tog work slip st, inserting hook as for tks work slip st] across; nish off leaving a long end for sewing. Thread yarn needle with long end and seam Mitt leaving thumb opening unsewn (Fig. 37, page 13).

Rows 5-8: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Row 9 (Thumb opening): Skip rst vertical bar, work 20 tks, work Cable Crossing using previous 6 tks, work 5 tks, inserting hook as for tks work slip st, [inserting hook as for k2tog work slip st, inserting hook as for tks work slip st] twice (thumb opening); nish off; with new yarn, close: 25 tks. Rows 10-13: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close.

Row 14: Skip rst vertical bar, work 20 tks, work Cable Crossing using previous 6 tks, work tks across, close. Rows 15-17: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Bind Off Row: Skip rst vertical bar, [inserting hook as for k2tog work slip st, inserting hook as for tks work slip st] across, nish off leaving a long end for sewing. Thread yarn needle with long end and seam Mitt leaving thumb opening unsewn.

SECOND MITT
Work Wrist and Hand same as First Mitt through Row 3 of Hand: 33 tks. Row 4: Skip rst vertical bar, work 20 tks, work Cable Crossing using previous 6 tks, work tks across, close. 37

hoodie

VEST
The Hoodie Vest is made in one piece, working from the bottom edge to the armholes. At the armholes, the vest is split into Front, Back, and opposite Front. Shoulders are sewn together. The Hood is worked by picking up stitches around the neck and working toward the top, then sewn together across last row. Size Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large Finished Chest Measurement 31" (80 cm) 35" (90 cm) 39" (99 cm) 43" (109 cm) 46" (118 cm) Size Note: Instructions are written with sizes Extra Small and Small in the rst set of braces { } and sizes Medium, Large, and Extra Large in the second set of braces. Instructions will be easier to read if you circle all the numbers pertaining to your size. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

MATERIALS Fine Weight Self-striping Yarn [2.29 ounces, 185 yards (65 grams, 169 meters) per skein]: {7-8}{8-9-10} skeins Minimum length of 18-22" (45.5-56 cm) Tunisian hook, size H (5 mm) or size needed for gauge Standard crochet hook, size E (3.5 mm) Split ring stitch marker 7 /8" (22 mm) Round buttons - 2 Tapestry needle

GAUGE: With Tunisian hook, 17 tks and 21 rows = 4" (10 cm) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

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39

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8. TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH, page 10. KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11. REVERSE KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11.

Rows 5 thru {39-41}{43-45-47}: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Row {40-42}{44-46-48} (Decrease row): Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across working 6 evenly spaced decreases (k2tog) across, close: {150-166} {182-198-214} tks. Rows {41-43}{45-47-49} and {42-44}{46-48-50}: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Next 6 Rows: Repeat last 3 rows twice: {138-154} {170-186-202} tks. Next 9 Rows: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. NECK SHAPING Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: {136-152} {168-184-200} sts. Rows 2-4: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 1-4: {134-150}{166-182-198} tks.

FIRST FRONT
ARMHOLE SHAPING Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work {22-26} {30-34-38} tks, revk2tog, work tks in next st, leave remaining {106-118}{130-142-154} tks unworked, close: {26-30} {34-38-42} tks. Rows 2-4: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: {23-27}{31-35-39} tks. Row 5: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: {21-25}{29-33-37} tks. Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 2-5: {16-20}{24-28-32} tks. FOR SIZE LARGE ONLY Row 10: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: 27 sts. Row 11: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: 25 sts.

The self-striping yarn wont react the same in short spans of fabric as it will in long spans of fabric. To achieve the same look in the smaller expanses of fabric, try using the 2-Color or 3-Color Techniques on page 12.

BODY
With Tunisian hook, ch {156-172} {188-204-220}. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close: {156-172}{188-204-220} sts. Rows 1-4: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks, (work trs, work tks) across, close.

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ALL SIZES Next {3-2}{2-2-1} Row(s): Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Next Row: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across, close: {15-19}{23-24-31} tks. Repeat last {4-3}{3-3-2} rows, {5-7}{9-10-16} times: {10-12} {14-14-15} tks. Last {7-11}{5-2-5} Rows: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Finish off.

BACK
Row 1: With right side facing, skip next {7-9}{11-13-15} sts from First Front and join yarn with slip st in next st (counts as rst tks); work {63-67}{71-75-79} tks, leave remaining {35-41} {47-53-59} tks unworked, close: {64-68}{72-76-80} tks. Rows 2 thru {8-7}{7-8-9}: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: {50-56} {60-62-64} tks.

Last {32-35}{37-38-39} Rows: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close.

ALL SIZES Next {3-2}{2-2-1} Rows: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Next Row: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: {15-19}{23-24-31} tks. Repeat last {4-3}{3-3-2} rows, {5-7}{9-10-16} times: {10-12} {14-14-15} tks. Last {7-11}{5-2-5} Rows: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Finish off. Sew shoulder seams (Figs. 38a & b, page 13).

Rows 2-12: Skip rst vertical bar, YO (Fig. 35, page 13), work tks across to last st, YO, tks in last st, close: {64-66}{66-68-68} sts. Rows 13 thru {68-70} {72-72-72}: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Finish off. Sew top seam.

SECOND FRONT
Row 1: With right side facing, skip next {7-9}{11-13-15} sts from Back and join yarn with slip st in next st (counts as rst st of row); k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: {26-30} {34-38-42} tks. Rows 2-4: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across, close: {23-27}{31-35-39} tks. Row 5: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, tks in last st, close: {21-25}{29-33-37} tks. Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 2-5: {16-20}{24-28-32} tks. FOR SIZE LARGE ONLY Row 10: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across, close: 27 sts. Row 11: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: 25 sts.

BUTTON BAND
See Basic Crochet Stitches, page 50. Row 1 (Right side): With right side facing and using standard crochet hook, join yarn with sc to Row 1 of Front (see Joining With Sc, page 50), ch 1, sc evenly across end of rows ending in end of Row 1 of Second Front (Fig 43, page 50). Row 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across. Place a marker 2" (6.5 cm) down from Neck Shaping on right Front for rst buttonhole placement.

HOOD
Row 1: With right side facing and Tunisian hook, join yarn on right Front for right-handers (left Front for left-handers) with slip st in end of seventh row down from shoulder seam (Fig 42, page 50), slip st in next row (counts as rst st), pick up loops in remaining 5 rows, work tks across {30-32} {32-34-34} unworked sts of Back neck, pick up loops in end of rst 6 rows from shoulder seam, close: {42-44}{44-46-46} sts.

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{13-131/4}{133/4-133/4-133/4}"

Row 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across to marker, ch 2, skip next 3 sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 2, skip next 3 sc, sc in next sc and in each sc across. Row 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across to next ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in each sc across. Row 5: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across; nish off.

{15-151/2}{151/2-16-16}"

HOOD

{10-101/4}{101/4-103/4-103/4}"

{21/4-23/4} {31/4-31/4-31/2}" {113/4-13}{14-141/2-15}" Rnd 1: With right side facing and standard crochet hook, join yarn with sc in rst unworked st at underarm; sc evenly around; join with slip st to rst sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with slip st to rst sc, nish off. Repeat for second armhole. Sew buttons on left Front opposite buttonholes. {71/2-8} {8 /2-83/4-9}"

ARMHOLE TRIM

FRONT

BACK

FRONT

{121/2-13} {131/4-133/4-14}"

{311/2-351/4}{39-423/4-461/2}" BODY

{363/4-401/2}{441/4-48-513/4}" Note: Dashed lines indicate Hood worked onto Vest.

43

mitered

VEST
The Vest is worked in one piece, starting at the bottom of the Bodice, separating at the shoulders to work the front Bodice sections. Then, the lower back armhole is picked up and joined to the fronts, working the lower body in one piece. Size Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large Finished Chest Measurement 32" (81.5 cm) 36" (91.5 cm) 40" (101.5 cm) 44" (112 cm) 48" (122 cm) Size Note: Instructions are written with sizes Extra Small and Small in the rst set of braces { } and sizes Medium, Large, and Extra Large in the second set of braces. Instructions will be easier to read if you circle all the numbers pertaining to your size. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

MATERIALS Lace Weight Yarn [5,040 yards (4609 meters) per cone]: One cone Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) or size needed for gauge Standard crochet hooks, sizes E (3.5 mm) and K (6.5 mm) Split-ring stitch markers - 2 Safety pin

GAUGE: With Tunisian hook and two strands of yarn held together, 15.5 tks and 15.5 rows = 4" (10 cm) (after blocking) Please refer to gauge on page 50.

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The Vest is worked holding two strands of yarn together throughout. If you are using a yarn that is on a cone, you will need to loosely wind a large ball to use as one strand of yarn and hold it together with the yarn from the cone. Cut four 24" (61 cm) lengths of yarn and set aside for underarm joining.

STITCH GUIDE
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8. TUNISIAN EXTENDED STITCH, page 10. KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11. REVERSE KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11. YARN OVER, page 12. MAKE ONE, page 12.

Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to curl; once blocked the fabric will relax.

45

BODICE
BACK
With Tunisian hook, ch {42-48} {52-56-58}. Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close: {42-48}{52-56-58} tss. Rows 1 thru {5-5}{5-6-6}: Skip rst vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to last 3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, close: {32-38}{42-44-46} tks. Rows {6-6}{6-7-7} thru {28-30} {32-34-36}: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. FIRST SHOULDER SHAPING Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work {7-9} {11-11-11} tks, leave remaining {24-28} {30-32-34} sts unworked, close: {8-10} {12-12-12} tks. Rows 2-10: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close.

FIRST FRONT
Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, YO, work tks across, close: {9-11}{13-13-13} sts. Row 2: Skip rst vertical bar, M1 , work tks across, close. Row 3: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across, close. Rows 4-24: Repeat Rows 1-3, 7 times: {16-18}{20-20-20} tks.

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MITERED SHAPING Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work {7-8}{9-9-9} tks, YO, work {8-9}{10-10-10} tks, close: {17-19}{21-21-21} sts. Row 2: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to next YO, YO, M1, YO, work tks across, close: {19-21}{23-23-23} sts. Rows 3 thru {5-7}{9-11-13}: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks across, close: {25-31} {37-41-45} sts. Finish off.

SECOND SHOULDER SHAPING

SECOND FRONT

Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work Row 1: With right side facing tks across to last st, YO, work tks and Tunisian hook, skip {16-18} in last st, close: {9-11}{13-13-13} {18-20-22} sts from rst shoulder sts. and join yarn with slip st as for tks in next st (counts as rst st); Row 2: Skip rst vertical bar, work work tks across, close: {8-10} tks across to next YO, M1, work {12-12-12} tks. tks, close. Rows 2-10: Skip rst vertical bar, Row 3: Skip rst vertical bar, work work tks across, close. tks across, close. Rows 4- 24: Repeat Rows 1-3, 7 times: {16-18}{20-20-20} tks. MITERED SHAPING Row 1: Skip rst vertical bar, work {7-8}{9-9-9} tks, YO, work {8-9} {10-10-10} tks, close: {17-19}{21-21-21} sts. {10-101/2} {11-111/2-12}" Row 2: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to next YO, YO, M1, YO, work tks across, close: {19-21}{23-23-23} sts. Rows 3 thru {5-7}{9-11-13}: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks across, close; at end of last row, do not nish off place loop onto a safety pin: {25-31}{37-41-45} sts. First Underarm Joining: With right side facing and using larger size standard crochet hook, join two strands of 24" (61 cm) yarn with slip st in last st on last row, ch {8-10}{12-14-16}, being careful not to twist Body, slip st in rst st of Row 1 of Back; nish off.

FRONT BODICE

FRONT BODICE

{81/4-93/4} {103/4-111/4-113/4}" BODICE BACK {103/4-121/4}{131/2-141/2-15}" {441/2-50}{551/4-591/4-63}"

WAIST

{103/4-121/4} {131/2-141/2-15}" 47

{71/2-8}{81/2-9-91/2}"

Note: Dashed lines indicate continuous rows.

Second Underarm Joining: With right side facing and using larger size standard crochet hook, join remaining two strands of 24" (61 cm) yarn with slip st in last st on Row 1 of Back; ch {8-10}{12-14-16}, being careful not to twist Body, slip st in rst st of last row of Second Front; nish off.

WAIST SHAPING
Determine the center {32-42} {48-54-60} sts on row, place stitch marker before rst st and after last st (see Markers, page 50). The center {32-42} {48-54-60} sts are the Back. Move stitch markers up as work progresses so that these sts are always between the stitch markers. Rows 1-10: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks across to within 2 sts of marker, revk2tog, work tks across to next marker, k2tog, work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks across, close: {172-194}{214-230-244} sts. Rows 11-18: Skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks across to within 4 sts of marker, revk2tog twice, work tks across to next marker, k2tog twice, work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks across, close. Row 19: Ch 1 (counts as rst st), skip rst vertical bar, work tes across, close. Bind Off Row: Ch 1, skip rst vertical bar, work tes across, close; nish off.

BODY
Skip tks on Fronts and Back where slip sts are worked. Row 1: Place loop from safety pin onto Tunisian hook, skip rst vertical bar, work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks across to next ch, pull up a loop in next {8-10}{12-14-16} chs, work tks across Back, pull up a loop in next {8-10}{12-14-16} chs, work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks across, close: {112-134}{154-170-184} sts. Rows 2-11: Skip rst vertical bar, # work tks across to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1; repeat from # once more, work tks across, close: {152-174}{194-210-224} sts.

TRIMS
FRONT
Row 1 (Right side): With right side facing and smaller size standard crochet hook, join yarn with sc in end of Bind-Off Row (see Joining With Sc, page 50); sc evenly across end of rows to Back, sc in each st across Back, sc evenly across end of rows, ending in end of Bind Off Row. Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc across. Finish off.

ARMHOLE
Rnd 1: With right side facing and smaller size standard crochet hook, join yarn with sc in free loop of rst ch at either underarm (Fig. 41, page 50); sc evenly around; join with slip st to rst sc. Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each sc around; join with slip st to rst sc, nish off. Repeat around second armhole.

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general

INSTRUCTIONS
ABBREVIATIONS
ch(s) cm k2tog M1 mm revk2tog Rnd(s) sc st(s) tks tes tps trs tss YO chain(s) centimeters knit 2 together make one millimeters reverse knit 2 together Round(s) single crochet(s) stitch(es) Tunisian Knit Stitch Tunisian Extended Stitch Tunisian Purl Stitch Tunisian Reverse Stitch Tunisian Simple Stitch yarn over
#

work instructions following # as many more times as indicated in addition to the rst time. ( ) or [ ] work enclosed instructions as many times as specied by the number immediately following or work all enclosed instructions in the stitch or space indicated or contains explanatory remarks. colon (:) the number(s) given after a colon at the end of a row or round denote(s) the number of stitches you should have on that row or round.

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GAUGE
Exact gauge is essential for proper size. Before beginning your project, make a sample swatch in the yarn and hook specied in the individual instructions. After completing the swatch, measure it, counting your stitches and rows carefully. If your swatch is larger or smaller than specied, make another, changing hook size to get the correct gauge. Keep trying until you nd the size hook that will give you the specied gauge.

BACK LOOP ONLY

Work only in loop(s) indicated by arrow (Fig. 40).

Fig. 40

FREE LOOPS OF A CHAIN

When instructed to work in free loops of a chain, work in loop indicated by arrow (Fig. 41). Fig. 41

MARKERS
As a convenience to you, we have used markers to help distinguish the beginning of a pattern. Place markers as instructed. When you reach a marker on each row, slip it from the left needle to the right needle; remove it when no longer needed.

BASIC CROCHET STITCHES

SLIP STITCH
(abbreviated slip st) To work a slip stitch, insert hook in stitch indicated, YO and draw through st and through loop on hook (Fig. 42).

Fig. 42

SINGLE CROCHET
(abbreviated sc) Insert hook in stitch indicated, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through both loops on hook (Fig. 43).

Fig. 43

JOINING WITH SC
When instructed to join with sc, begin with a slip knot on hook. Insert hook in stitch or space indicated, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through both loops on hook.

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yarn

INFORMATION
The items in this leaet were made using a variety of yarns. Any brand of the specied weight of yarn may be used. It is best to refer to the yardage/meters when determining how many balls or skeins to purchase. Remember, to arrive at the nished size, it is the GAUGE/TENSION that is important, not the brand of yarn. For your convenience, listed below are the specic yarns used to create our photography models. STOCKINETTE SCARF NaturallyCaron.com Country #0011 Gilded Age STOCKINETTE HAT NaturallyCaron.com Country #0011 Gilded Age SEED STITCH RUANA Red Heart Artesano Variegated - #4375 Exotic Red Heart Mystic Green - #0660 Avocado DROP STITCH COWL Knitting Notions Classic Merino Superwash Sport #037 Sicily DIAGONAL HEARTS CRIB COVER Lion Brand Babysoft #170 Pistachio FELTED DUFFEL Cascade 220 Wool Taupe - #8407 Oyster Green - #8234 Pistachio CABLED MITTS Stitch Nation by Debbie Stroller Alpaca Love Red - #3920 Ruby Red Heart Mystic Green - #0660 Avocado HOODIE VEST Premier Yarns, Deborah Norville Collection Serenity Garden #DN800-04 Gems MITERED VEST Jagger Spun Zephyr Wool-Silk 2/18 Lace Weight Elderberry

HOOK SOURCES
SUSAN BATES SILVALUME ALUMINUM AFGHAN HOOKS http://www.coatsandclark.com BOYE ALUMINUM AFGHAN HOOKS http://www.simplicity.com PONY AFGHAN HOOKS http://itsalljuststring.com DENISE INTERCHANGEABLE HOOKS http://www.knitdenise.com CROCHET ON THE DOUBLE SWIVEL HOOKS http://www.anniesattic.com TULIP CARRY T INTERCHANGEABLE HOOKS http://www.buycaron.com

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We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work. Production Team: Instructional/Technical Editor - Lois J. Long; Editorial Writer - Susan McManus Johnson; Senior Graphic Artist - Lora Puls; Graphic Artists - Dana Vaughn, Becca Snider and Stacy Owens; Photo Stylist - Brooke Duszota; and Photographer - Jason Masters.

Copyright 2012 by Leisure Arts, Inc., 5701 Ranch Drive, Little Rock, AR 72223 www.leisurearts. com. All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction or distribution of this publication or any other Leisure Arts publication, including publications which are out of print, is prohibited unless specically authorized. This includes, but is not limited to, any form of reproduction or distribution on or through the Internet, including posting, scanning, or e-mail transmission.

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EAN

UPC