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Hiking The
Camino
de santiago
Camino Francs: St. Jean - Santiago - Finisterre
Contents
Camino Elevation Profile Camino Route Network Pilgrims on the Way Pilgrimage to Santiago
Pilgrimage...............................................12 St. James in Spain.....................................13 Christians, Muslims & Jews.....................14 Santiago, Rome & Jerusalem....................15 The Modern Camino Resurgence............20 Pilgrim Practicalities, Passports................21 When to Go & Time Necessary...............22 Visas & Entry..........................................22 Albergues (Pilgrim Hostels).....................23 Hotels, Hostels, Pensiones.......................24 Camping...............................................25 Eating......................................................25 Meals, Restaurants, & Supermarkets......25 Vegetarian, Vegan & Celiac Options......27
2 4 10 12
Early Medieval Pilgrims...........................15 Pilgrimage Themes...................................18 Sacred Travel: Making Your Trip a Pilgrimage..............................................19
20
Transportation.........................................27 Money, Costs & Budgeting......................28 Phones & Internet...................................28 Post Offices..............................................29 Luggage Transfer & Tours........................30 Bathrooms...............................................30 Medical Care...........................................30 Safety Issues.............................................31
32
Water Potability & Refill.......................36 Dehydration & Heat-related Illness.......36 Fitness & Training...................................36 Blister Prevention & Foot Care................37 Route Finding,Trail Markings, Maps & GPS..................................................38 Daily Stages & Regional Sections.............39
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20: Len to Villar de Mazarife, 21.5km..184 21: V/de Mazarife to Astorga, 31.5km...190 Cantabrian Mtns. & El Bierzo, 100.9km 22: Astorga to Foncebadn, 25.9km......200 23: Foncebadn to Ponferrada, 27.1km.206 24: Ponferrada to Villafranca, 24.2km...214 25: Villafranca to La Faba, 23.7km........220 Galicia, 159.6km 26: La Faba to Triacastela, 25.7km.........228 27: Triacastela to Barbadelo, 23.0km.....236 28: Barbadelo to Hospital Alta da Cruz, 29.5km............................................244 29: Hospital Alta da Cruz to Melide, 28.4km............................................250 30: Melida to Arca, 33.0km...................258 31: Arca to Santiago, 20.0km................264 Camino Finisterre, 86.6km 32: Santiago to Negreira, 21.9km..........280 33: Negreira to Olveiroa, 33.3km..........284 34: Olveiroa to Finisterre, 31.4km.........288 34A: Olveiroa to Muxa, 31.6km...........300 35: Finisterre to Muxa, 28.0km............304
310
14
14
28.5km
(17.7mi)
6-8 Hours Difficulty: 32%, 9.0km 68%, 19.5km
A Albergues: San Antn 5.6km Castrojeriz 9.4km San Nicols 18.3km Itero 20.3km Boadilla 28.5km Frmista 34.3km
Approaching Castrojeriz
Visit the enigmatic ruins of San Antn and the medieval castle of Castrojeriz, sleep in a church in San Nicols or go for a swim in Boadilla.
Most of this day is on pleasant dirt tracks with two towns offering pilgrim services. The hill after Castrojeriz is especially steep (both up and down) so be sure to reserve energy and take plenty of water for this shadeless section. After San Nicols, the path crosses from Burgos province into Palencia. Note that Boadilla does not have a shop, so bring any supplies you may need for an overnight there.
2000m 1500m
lar es
Hontanas
riz nA nt n
AH
A
Ca s A tro H je
Mo ste
5.6
Sa
Ite
Sa
3.4
5.5
1000m 500m 0m
la ro d Ve e A ga H
de
Alt o
nN
3.8
2.0
8.2
5.6
0 5
3.8
10
8.9
15
2.0
20
8.2
25 28.5
Itero de la Vega
Villasandino
Putzu
2
La Mochila
Municipal
Lantadilla
1 Municipal
3
Villasilos
Villaveta
Santa Mara
rilla
Rollo de Justicia
3 En el Camino
Od
P-432
100m
Ro
BU-404
100m
Piedad
Ro Pisuerga
Hontanas
AH
0.0 4.0
arch
Itero de la Vega AH
18% grade!
Castrojeriz 11.3
9.4
5.6
22.5 20.3
Od
Al Mo to de ste lar es
ncia
A San Nicols
Ro
BU
-40
Fuente al Pioja
rilla
18.3
16.8
Pisuega canal
28.5
Av. Colegiata
Enter Pa le
Hinestrosa
-40
Villaquirn de la Puebla
1
Camping Camino de Santiago El Manzano
AH
dieg o
. Villa
Ctra
go
die
Ctr a. V illa
Castrojeriz Melgar
de Yuso
c/R
a. M Ctr
Ctra
. Hon
tana
N
8
Cachava Santo Domingo
de te en Ori
elg
Ctra. Villadiego
de
Fern
am
enta
2 San Esteban
3 Casa Nostra
l ea c/R
2 km
Ctra. Hontanas
14
Santoyo
100m
Los Balbases
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5.6 San Antn church complex was started by the Order of St. Anthony, a 11th-century order dedi5.6 Convento de San Antn A cated to the 3rd-century Egyptian A Hospital de Peregrinos de San Antn (priv, hermit whose relics it held. A man 12, don): , May to Sept , in ruins of brought his daughter to the relics convent, communal meals by candlelight, no and she was healed of a particularly electricity or hot water, basic, special experience pernicious disease reminiscent of leprosy. This disease became known Tau on the bell tower as St. Anthonys Fire, which caused a terrible burning feeling, of Convento de San loss of circulation and eventually gangrene. This disease was in Antn (above) fact likely ergotism, caused by a fungus that grows on rye bread. The order developed a reputation for healing this disease, though serendipitously, pilgrimage was an excellent antidote to the disease as vigorous exercise and plenty of wine helped to overcome it. Notice the niches outside the church as you pass, which used to hold food for the poor. St. Antn is the patron saint of animals, and across Spain people bring their pets to be blessed on his saints day. The church ruins include a high archway over the camino path, and the remains of rosette windows featuring the Tau cross (t-shaped), used as a symbol of the order. An unusual but beloved albergue now exists in the ruins.
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Colorful flowers in The trail continues on the paved road right through the Arch of Castrojeriz San Antn and follows a pleasant quiet shaded road to Castrojeriz (9.4km), easily identifiable with its imposing castle ruins on the hill 9.4 Castrojeriz A H above. The trail winds through this Pop. 873, Latin: Castrum Sigerici Castle of (King) classic medieval city, which seems to be Sigerici, Plaza Mayor, 3, 947-377001 perpetually on siesta with hardly a soul 1. A Camping Camino de Santiago (priv, 35, out on the street. W D @
9.4 Castrojeriz occupies a perfect position for defense along the steep mesa topped by the Castillo de San Esteban. The Romans used the castle, said to be founded by Julius Caesar, to protect the roads to Galicias lucrative gold mines. The city changed hands frequently until coming under Christian rule in the 10th century. The charter for the city was progressive for its daythe punishment for killing a Jew was the same as for killing a Christian.
6): , c/Virgen del Manzano, 947-377255 , Mar 15-Nov 15 2. A San Esteban (muni, 30, don w/ ): , Plaza Mayor, 947-377001 , 12:30pm, all year, historic building using solar energy 3. A Casa Nostra (priv, 26, 6.50): K W D @ , c/Real de Oriente 52 , 11am Feb-Dec 4. A San Juan (muni, 28, don): c/Cordn, 947-377400 , Apr-Oct, basic facilities 5. H El Manzano (dbl 35): , c/Colegiata, 620-782768 6. H Puerta del Monte (dbl 54): , Plaza Puerta del Monte, 947-378647 7. H La Posada/Mesn de Castrojeriz (dbl 33-58): , c/Cordn 1, 947-377400 8. H La Cachava (dbl 72): , 947-378547
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Iglesia de Santa Mara del Manzano ( Jun 15- Sep 30, 10am-2pm, 947-377001)
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San Nicols (assoc, 12, don): , June-Sept, to the L before the bridge, communal meals, 13th-c. church restored and run by an Italian Confraternity, no electricity [except in WC/shower house in back], ritual of foot washing
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After San Nicols cross over the Ro Pisuerga (18.5km) on a paved bridge, turning R past a picnic area and welcome sign to Palencia (river is the border between Burgos and Palencia provinces). A pilgrim bridge was first commissioned here in the 11th century by Alfonso VI to unify the territories of Castile and Len. The Codex Calixtinus provided ambiguous information about Tierra de Campos, the territory you are entering. It is full of royal treasure, of gold and silver, fabrics and the strongest horses, and flush with bread, wine, fish, milk and honey. It is however lacking in firewood and the people are evil and vicious. 20.3 Itero de Vega: Reaching the outskirts of town, the road becomes paved. To the L is a the 13thcentury Ermita de la Piedad, with a picnic area and water. Continue through town and leave via a wide dirt road. Cross the Pisuega canal (22.5km) on a small bridge. Arrive to Boadilla del Camino after a long desolate road over a gentle hill on a mesa.
Pop. 177, Spanish: boundary of the meadow 1. A Municipal ( 12, 5): K , Plaza de las Iglesias, 605-034347, all year 2. A La Mochila (priv, 20, 6-8): W D @ , c/Santa Ana 3, 979-151781, all year 3. H Puente de Fitero (sng 28, dbl 29): @ , c/Santa Maria 3, 979-151822
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28.5 Boadilla del Camino A H Pop. 124, Latin: boava ox. 1. A Putzu (priv, 16, 7): K W @ (free), c/las Bodegas 9, all year, mixed reports 2. A Municipal ( 12, 3): c/Escuelas, 979-810390, very basic 3. A H En el Camino(priv, 48, dm 6, dbl 26-31): W D @ , Plaza el Rollo, 979-810284/619-105168 , Mar-Nov, large green garden with small pool, good pilgrim menu
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135 detailed stage, city and town maps Essential practical information on transport, accommodations and services Overviews of dozens of medieval pilgrim sites, with information about the
historical context of the pilgrimage
$29.95 USA
ISBN 978-0-9843533-4-7
52995 >