Вы находитесь на странице: 1из 12

A Village to Village Guide to

Hiking The

Camino

de santiago
Camino Francs: St. Jean - Santiago - Finisterre

Anna Dintaman David Landis


Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

Contents
Camino Elevation Profile Camino Route Network Pilgrims on the Way Pilgrimage to Santiago
Pilgrimage...............................................12 St. James in Spain.....................................13 Christians, Muslims & Jews.....................14 Santiago, Rome & Jerusalem....................15 The Modern Camino Resurgence............20 Pilgrim Practicalities, Passports................21 When to Go & Time Necessary...............22 Visas & Entry..........................................22 Albergues (Pilgrim Hostels).....................23 Hotels, Hostels, Pensiones.......................24 Camping...............................................25 Eating......................................................25 Meals, Restaurants, & Supermarkets......25 Vegetarian, Vegan & Celiac Options......27

2 4 10 12

Early Medieval Pilgrims...........................15 Pilgrimage Themes...................................18 Sacred Travel: Making Your Trip a Pilgrimage..............................................19

Travel on the Camino

20

Transportation.........................................27 Money, Costs & Budgeting......................28 Phones & Internet...................................28 Post Offices..............................................29 Luggage Transfer & Tours........................30 Bathrooms...............................................30 Medical Care...........................................30 Safety Issues.............................................31

Preparing to Hike the Camino


Packing for the Camino...........................32 Backpacks..............................................32 Footwear................................................32 Sleeping Bags.........................................33 Clothing................................................33 Packing List & Sample First Aid Kit........34 Water, Food and Resupply.......................36

32

Water Potability & Refill.......................36 Dehydration & Heat-related Illness.......36 Fitness & Training...................................36 Blister Prevention & Foot Care................37 Route Finding,Trail Markings, Maps & GPS..................................................38 Daily Stages & Regional Sections.............39

Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

The Camino Francs and Camino Finisterre


Basque Country & Navarra, 162.9km 1: St. Jean to Roncesvalles, 24.7km......42 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri, 22.3km........56 3: Zubiri to Pamplona, 21.1km...........62 4: Pamplona to Puente la Reina, 23.8km...........................................72 5: Puente la Reina to Estella, 21.8km...82 6: Estella to Los Arcos, 21.6km............90 7: Los Arcos to Logroo, 27.6km.........96 La Rioja & Castilla y Len, 123.4km 8: Logroo to Njera, 29.6km...........104 9: Njera to Santo Domingo, 20.9km.110 10: Santo Domingo to Belorado, 22.9km.......................................116 11: Belorado to Ags, 27.7km...........122 12: Ags to Burgos, 22.3km..............128 Meseta, 231.9km 13: Burgos to Hontanas, 31.4km......138 14: Hontanas to Boadilla, 28.5km....146 15: Boadilla to Carrin, 24.5km.......154 16: Carrin to Terradillos, 26.6km....160 17: Terradillos to Calzadilla, 26.4km.164 18: Calzadilla to Mansilla, 23.6km....172 19: Mansilla to Len, 17.9km...........176

40

20: Len to Villar de Mazarife, 21.5km..184 21: V/de Mazarife to Astorga, 31.5km...190 Cantabrian Mtns. & El Bierzo, 100.9km 22: Astorga to Foncebadn, 25.9km......200 23: Foncebadn to Ponferrada, 27.1km.206 24: Ponferrada to Villafranca, 24.2km...214 25: Villafranca to La Faba, 23.7km........220 Galicia, 159.6km 26: La Faba to Triacastela, 25.7km.........228 27: Triacastela to Barbadelo, 23.0km.....236 28: Barbadelo to Hospital Alta da Cruz, 29.5km............................................244 29: Hospital Alta da Cruz to Melide, 28.4km............................................250 30: Melida to Arca, 33.0km...................258 31: Arca to Santiago, 20.0km................264 Camino Finisterre, 86.6km 32: Santiago to Negreira, 21.9km..........280 33: Negreira to Olveiroa, 33.3km..........284 34: Olveiroa to Finisterre, 31.4km.........288 34A: Olveiroa to Muxa, 31.6km...........300 35: Finisterre to Muxa, 28.0km............304

Appendices and Quick Reference Charts


Historical Timeline of Spain..................310 Spanish Phrasebook...............................312

310

Suggested Reading & Web Index...........316

Acknowledgements About the Authors Legend

318 319 320

Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

14

14

HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO

28.5km
(17.7mi)
6-8 Hours Difficulty: 32%, 9.0km 68%, 19.5km

A Albergues: San Antn 5.6km Castrojeriz 9.4km San Nicols 18.3km Itero 20.3km Boadilla 28.5km Frmista 34.3km

Approaching Castrojeriz

Visit the enigmatic ruins of San Antn and the medieval castle of Castrojeriz, sleep in a church in San Nicols or go for a swim in Boadilla.
Most of this day is on pleasant dirt tracks with two towns offering pilgrim services. The hill after Castrojeriz is especially steep (both up and down) so be sure to reserve energy and take plenty of water for this shadeless section. After San Nicols, the path crosses from Burgos province into Palencia. Note that Boadilla does not have a shop, so bring any supplies you may need for an overnight there.

2000m 1500m

lar es

Hontanas
riz nA nt n
AH
A

Boadilla del Camino


ico ls
AH

Ca s A tro H je

Mo ste

5.6

Sa

Ite

Sa

3.4

5.5

1000m 500m 0m

la ro d Ve e A ga H

de

Alt o

nN

3.8

2.0

8.2

5.6
0 5

3.8
10

8.9
15

2.0
20

8.2
25 28.5

Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

Boadilla del Camino


Yudego

Itero de la Vega

Villasandino

Putzu

2
La Mochila

Municipal

Lantadilla
1 Municipal

3
Villasilos

Puente del Fitero

Villaveta

Santa Mara
rilla

Rollo de Justicia

3 En el Camino
Od

P-432

100m
Ro
BU-404

100m
Piedad
Ro Pisuerga

Hontanas
AH

Requena de Campos Castrillo B U Matajudos -400 Tabanera

0.0 4.0
arch

Itero de la Vega AH
18% grade!

Itero del Castillo A


12.8
Roman Road shelter

Castrojeriz 11.3
9.4

A Convento de San Antn A H


BU

5.6

22.5 20.3
Od

Al Mo to de ste lar es

ncia

A San Nicols
Ro

BU

-40

Fuente al Pioja

rilla

18.3

16.8

Pisuega canal

28.5
Av. Colegiata

Enter Pa le

Hinestrosa

-40

Santa Mara del Manzano


c/San And

Villaquirn de la Puebla
1
Camping Camino de Santiago El Manzano

AH
dieg o

. Villa

Ctra

go

die

Ctr a. V illa

Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com


5
rs

Castrojeriz Melgar
de Yuso
c/R

Pedrosa Castillo de del Principe San Esteban


eal de Po nie n te

a. M Ctr

Boadilla del Camino


San Juan San Juan 4 La Posada 7
Ctr a. M elg ar de

Ctra

. Hon

tana

N
8
Cachava Santo Domingo
de te en Ori

HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO

elg

ar am enta Villodre l Fern

Ctra. Villadiego

de

Fern

am

enta

2 San Esteban

3 Casa Nostra

l ea c/R

Puerta del Monte

2 km
Ctra. Hontanas

14

Santoyo

100m

Los Balbases

14

HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO


0.0 Leave Hontanas on the main road, continuing onto a dirt path (hot weather alternative is to walk the shaded paved road). The path rejoins the road (4.0km), and continues to the ruins of the Convento de San Antn. Walk around to the back of the convent and peek in if the door is open.

5.6 San Antn church complex was started by the Order of St. Anthony, a 11th-century order dedi5.6 Convento de San Antn A cated to the 3rd-century Egyptian A Hospital de Peregrinos de San Antn (priv, hermit whose relics it held. A man 12, don): , May to Sept , in ruins of brought his daughter to the relics convent, communal meals by candlelight, no and she was healed of a particularly electricity or hot water, basic, special experience pernicious disease reminiscent of leprosy. This disease became known Tau on the bell tower as St. Anthonys Fire, which caused a terrible burning feeling, of Convento de San loss of circulation and eventually gangrene. This disease was in Antn (above) fact likely ergotism, caused by a fungus that grows on rye bread. The order developed a reputation for healing this disease, though serendipitously, pilgrimage was an excellent antidote to the disease as vigorous exercise and plenty of wine helped to overcome it. Notice the niches outside the church as you pass, which used to hold food for the poor. St. Antn is the patron saint of animals, and across Spain people bring their pets to be blessed on his saints day. The church ruins include a high archway over the camino path, and the remains of rosette windows featuring the Tau cross (t-shaped), used as a symbol of the order. An unusual but beloved albergue now exists in the ruins.

Camino marker entering Castrojeriz Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO

14

Colorful flowers in The trail continues on the paved road right through the Arch of Castrojeriz San Antn and follows a pleasant quiet shaded road to Castrojeriz (9.4km), easily identifiable with its imposing castle ruins on the hill 9.4 Castrojeriz A H above. The trail winds through this Pop. 873, Latin: Castrum Sigerici Castle of (King) classic medieval city, which seems to be Sigerici, Plaza Mayor, 3, 947-377001 perpetually on siesta with hardly a soul 1. A Camping Camino de Santiago (priv, 35, out on the street. W D @

9.4 Castrojeriz occupies a perfect position for defense along the steep mesa topped by the Castillo de San Esteban. The Romans used the castle, said to be founded by Julius Caesar, to protect the roads to Galicias lucrative gold mines. The city changed hands frequently until coming under Christian rule in the 10th century. The charter for the city was progressive for its daythe punishment for killing a Jew was the same as for killing a Christian.

6): , c/Virgen del Manzano, 947-377255 , Mar 15-Nov 15 2. A San Esteban (muni, 30, don w/ ): , Plaza Mayor, 947-377001 , 12:30pm, all year, historic building using solar energy 3. A Casa Nostra (priv, 26, 6.50): K W D @ , c/Real de Oriente 52 , 11am Feb-Dec 4. A San Juan (muni, 28, don): c/Cordn, 947-377400 , Apr-Oct, basic facilities 5. H El Manzano (dbl 35): , c/Colegiata, 620-782768 6. H Puerta del Monte (dbl 54): , Plaza Puerta del Monte, 947-378647 7. H La Posada/Mesn de Castrojeriz (dbl 33-58): , c/Cordn 1, 947-377400 8. H La Cachava (dbl 72): , 947-378547

Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

14

HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO


Franks and Jews settled in the town, which became a way station on the pilgrimage road with five churches and seven pilgrim hospitals along the long road through the city. Dont miss the impressive 13th-century Gothic Iglesia de Santa Mara del Manzano. Legend has it that Mary appeared to St. James from an apple tree and he was so startled that his horse reared up and came down heavily, leaving hoofprints in the stone outside the entrance. On the way through town, pass the 16th-century Iglesia de Santo Domingonote the ominous carved skulls along the wall with the message O Mors (Latin: Oh death). The 13thcentury Iglesia de San Juan de los Caballeros features an ornate Mudjar ceiling. The castle looming above Castrojeriz goes back to pre-Roman times, used and built upon by the Romans, Visigoths, Moors and Christians. The view is well worth the climb, but probably only practical if you are staying the night in town. Leaving Castrojeriz, cross highways BU-404 and BU-400 and continue straight on a gravel path that joins a restored Roman road before passing over a marshy area on a wooden bridge over the Ro Odrilla (11.3km). Thousands of tons of stone were brought here to create a Roman causeway through the swampy Odrilla Valley for transporting gold and other minerals. The remains of Roman mines are still visible to the R, as well as a seam of mica running up the hill. The path climbs steeply up to the Alto de Mostelares (12.8km). At the top is a small shelter for shade. The downhill has been paved in cement and reaches a grade of 18%; proceed with caution. The path continues as gravel through more shadeless wheat fields.

Iglesia de Santa Mara del Manzano just before Castrojeriz

Iglesia de Santa Mara del Manzano ( Jun 15- Sep 30, 10am-2pm, 947-377001)

Castrojeriz Late May: Garlic festival

Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO


16.8 Fuente al Pioja +1.0 Itero del Castillo A Pop. 105 Relief comes at Fuente al Pioja (the A Municipal (1.0km off-route, 7, 5): Fleas fountain) where local fellows Plaza del Ayuntamiento, 608-977477, regularly offer coffee, fruit and other all year, ask for key in Bar El Castillo snacks along a shady picnic area. A natural spring offers untreated water, though locals say it is safe to drink. Follow a paved road and turn L onto a dirt path, with Itero del Castillo visible amongst the trees in the valley off route. 18.3 San Nicols Chapel Pass the friendly San Nicols chapel and albergue, who practice footwashing for pilgrims that stay overnight. Clean restrooms are behind the chapel in the yellow modern building. 18.3 San Nicols Chapel A

14

San Nicols (assoc, 12, don): , June-Sept, to the L before the bridge, communal meals, 13th-c. church restored and run by an Italian Confraternity, no electricity [except in WC/shower house in back], ritual of foot washing

Dawn view near Castrojeriz

Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

14

HIKING THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

A cyclist passes through wheatfields before Boadilla

After San Nicols cross over the Ro Pisuerga (18.5km) on a paved bridge, turning R past a picnic area and welcome sign to Palencia (river is the border between Burgos and Palencia provinces). A pilgrim bridge was first commissioned here in the 11th century by Alfonso VI to unify the territories of Castile and Len. The Codex Calixtinus provided ambiguous information about Tierra de Campos, the territory you are entering. It is full of royal treasure, of gold and silver, fabrics and the strongest horses, and flush with bread, wine, fish, milk and honey. It is however lacking in firewood and the people are evil and vicious. 20.3 Itero de Vega: Reaching the outskirts of town, the road becomes paved. To the L is a the 13thcentury Ermita de la Piedad, with a picnic area and water. Continue through town and leave via a wide dirt road. Cross the Pisuega canal (22.5km) on a small bridge. Arrive to Boadilla del Camino after a long desolate road over a gentle hill on a mesa.

Itero de Vega Aug: Itero Rock heavy metal festival

Pop. 177, Spanish: boundary of the meadow 1. A Municipal ( 12, 5): K , Plaza de las Iglesias, 605-034347, all year 2. A La Mochila (priv, 20, 6-8): W D @ , c/Santa Ana 3, 979-151781, all year 3. H Puente de Fitero (sng 28, dbl 29): @ , c/Santa Maria 3, 979-151822

20.3 Itero de Vega A H

10

Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

HONTANAS TO BOADILLA DEL CAMINO


28.5 Boadilla del Camino is built in a circular plan, suggesting that it was fortified in medieval times. The Gothic Rollo de la Justicia outside of the Iglesia de Santa Mara de la Asuncin symbolizes the independence granted to Boadilla in the 15th century, as they were then permitted to publicly torture and hang their own criminals. At its largest, the town supported a monastery and four churches. The Canal de Castilla begins here, which the camino follows to Frmista. The Canal de Castilla was built from 1753-1859, covering 207km. The canal was used for ships that were pulled by mules on tow paths. Today the canals are used to irrigate agricultural fields.

14

28.5 Boadilla del Camino A H Pop. 124, Latin: boava ox. 1. A Putzu (priv, 16, 7): K W @ (free), c/las Bodegas 9, all year, mixed reports 2. A Municipal ( 12, 3): c/Escuelas, 979-810390, very basic 3. A H En el Camino(priv, 48, dm 6, dbl 26-31): W D @ , Plaza el Rollo, 979-810284/619-105168 , Mar-Nov, large green garden with small pool, good pilgrim menu

Rollo de la Justicia in Boadilla del Camino Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

11

A Village to Village Guide

Walk the Ancient Pilgrim Way of St. James


Since medieval times, more than a million pilgrims have followed the Way of St. James across northern Spain take a journey on the Camino de Santiago and become a part of this dynamic story. Hiking the Camino de Santiago contains all the information you need to walk the 800km (500 mile) Camino Francs and 90km (55 mile) Camino Finisterre.

Full-color detailed topographical stage maps of


each days walk with free GPS files online

135 detailed stage, city and town maps Essential practical information on transport, accommodations and services Overviews of dozens of medieval pilgrim sites, with information about the
historical context of the pilgrimage

Expert advice on hiking gear, packing and daily camino life


Visit www.hikingthecamino.com for free planning information including maps, GPS tracks and frequently asked questions. Village to Village Press
www.villagetovillagepress.com

$29.95 USA
ISBN 978-0-9843533-4-7

52995 >

9 780984 353347 Village to Village Press, www.hikingthecamino.com

Вам также может понравиться