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Introduction

It's really not that hard to wire your bike for passing lamps, but if you haven't done much wiring before, give yourself plenty of time -- like at least a full weekend or two. Buy all the materials and tools you will need ahead of time. If you take your time to do it right, you'll have many years of trouble free service.

You’ve got two decisions to make before you start wiring. First, you need to decide how you want your new lamps to operate. Various options are listed below, in order of increasing functionality.

1. Lamps always on -- This is the simplest wiring. No toggle switch is needed.

-- This is the simplest wiring. No toggle switch is needed. 2. Lamps go on and

2. Lamps go on and off with the headlight dimmer control -- This is just as simple to wire as the first option. No toggle switch is needed.

3. Lamps controlled with ON/OFF toggle switch -- This has two more wiring steps than either of the first two options. The lamps are switched independently of the headlight dimmer control, and would not be safely switchable while riding.

4. Lamps toggled

control -- This has only a few more wiring steps than Option 3 above. A 2-position, DT (dual throw) type toggle switch is needed.

5. 3-Way Setup -- This is wired and operates the exact same way as Option 4 above, except it uses a 3-position toggle switch. The middle switch position allows for a lamps-stay-off capability.

UP
UP

to stay on, or

DOWN
DOWN

to go on/off with the dimmer

Option 5 is what I use. When I get my vehicle safety inspection, I can set the toggle so the lamps go on and off with the headlight dimmer. Then, once the inspection is done, I can toggle the lamps to remain on all the time. I don’t remember the last time I switched the lamps to stay-off, but it’s nice to know I could if needed.

Before jumping in, you must also decide on a power source for your lamps. Do you want to run a separate wire, protected by its own fuse and switched via a relay? Or are you agreeable to just tap into your bike's existing headlight wiring as Yamaha's Passing Lamp Kit instructions recommend?

The general flow of this document is based on the second choice -- tapping into your existing headlight wiring. However, if your new lamps might tax your wiring circuit see Appendix-A near the end of this document. You may also wish to view Appendix-B on the last page of this document to more effectively ground your lamps.

Materials Needed

You'll need 16 gauge, flexible, stranded copper wire, ideally in several color coatings. Your wire will be needed for two or three purposes, and so you may want two or three colors of wire. The usage, proposed color, and length of each wire is as follows:

Power Source In wire -- Recommend red or white. This is the wire to supply the main power for your lamps. Get 2 feet -- 3 feet if you'll be mounting a toggle switch in one of the passing lamp shells.

Dual Source, Power In wire -- Recommend yellow or Red. This is the alternate power source for your lights if you intend to use Option 4 or 5 from Page 1. Get 2 feet -- 4 feet if you'll be mounting a toggle switch in one of the passing lamp shells.

Power Out to Lamps wire -- Recommend white or a color to match or compliment the passing lamp wire colors. This wire goes from the two power leads (wires) from your passing lamps, and is only needed if you intend to use Option 3, 4, or 5 from Page 1. Get at least 2 feet -- 4 feet if you'll be mounting a toggle switch in one of the passing lamp shells.

Ring connectors -- to connect to the wires to the switch. This is only needed if the wiring option you choose is Option 3, 4 or 5 from Page 1 and the toggle switch you install has screw terminals. The following are three examples that would work fine. Pick ONE.

 RadioShack® Star Ring Terminals 16-14AWG (10-Pack), part#: 64-043 …OR…

 RadioShack® #8 Insulated Ring Terminal (16-Pack), part# 64-3118 …OR…

 RadioShack® Solderless Insulated Spade and Ring Tongues (75-Pack), part#: 64-407

Heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape or (my favorite) liquid-tape -- for covering contacts and connections.

Splice or Tap connectors -- unless you will be soldering your connections. Personally, I prefer to solder. If your soldering skills are good, I believe it makes for a more trouble free connection.

Spade connectors -- or other type, as desired. For example: RadioShack® 1/4" Fully Insulated Quick Disconnects (10-Pack), part#: 64-3133. This is optional but recommended. It will allow you to disconnect your passing lamps from the bike’s stock wiring. Tip: If you have an electrical problem in the future, you can more easily isolate the problem by simply unplugging components. I recommend you create quick-disconnect connections for every electrical add-on you install.

Selecting a toggle switch

If you will be using a switch be sure it’s rated for at least 12 volts and at least 6 amps (9 amps if your lamps are greater than 35 watts each). To get technical about it, multiply the amp-rating times the voltage rating; the result will be the maximum watts the switch can handle. Then check the wattage of your passing lamps (25-35 watts is common). Remember to double the wattage, as there are two lamps.

Switch Selection Tip: I also recommend using a switch with screw or spade terminals. I don't like solder terminals for two reasons: First, they tend to be way too small for 16 gauge wire (at least the ones I've seen). Second, they don't seem to withstand long-term vibration without cracking or breaking. I've used three different solder terminal toggle switches for my bike; all three broke at the terminal after a just a few years' time. I believe screw terminals are the most secure, especially if you put a dab of silicone adhesive or RTV silicone on the screw threads to lock them in.

Important Wattage Tip: I recommend drawing no more than about 80-90 watts in aftermarket accessories on the headlight wiring. This includes all lights, GPS, radio, heated grips, and anything else that might be wired into the headlight fuse wiring. (Thus, I use 25 watt passing lamp bulbs.) Yes, the headlight fuse is rated for 15 amps, which equates to 120 watts of potential accessory use. But be very careful running too close to the rated limit. The real world of electrical components (fuses, accessories, wiring, connectors) does not strictly adhere to tidy numeric formulas. Push the limit too close, and over time your wiring can become stiff and brittle, or much worse.

The following are examples and possibilities. The first example is the one I use. You only need ONE.

3-Position (On/Off/On) toggle switch -- RadioShack® DPDT 10-Amp 125-volt, part#: 275- 1533, very heavy duty switch with six screw terminals. This is appropriate if the wiring option you choose is #5, from the choices listed on Page 1. Tip: A DP (dual pole) switch is overkill, but I have found SPDT (single pole, dual throw) switches with screw terminals rather expensive, especially with a center-off position.

3-Position (On/Off/On) toggle switch -- JT&T Products (2644F) - 25 AMP @ 12 Volt - SPDT, heavy duty marine switch with three screw terminals. This is appropriate if the wiring option you choose is #5, from the choices listed on Page 1.

2-Position (On/On) toggle switch -- JT&T Products (2643F) - 25 AMP @ 12 Volt - SPDT, heavy duty marine switch with three screw terminals. This is appropriate if the wiring option you choose is #4, from the choices listed on Page 1.

On/Off toggle switch -- JT&T Products (2941F) - 15 AMP @ 12 Volt - SPDT, Bakelite with Integrated Wire Leads (which means, no ring connectors needed). This is appropriate if the wiring option you choose is #3, from the choices listed on Page 1.

If you will be using a toggle, like one listed above, you might consider installing a protective rubber boot over the exposed switch lever. I got one for a few cents at a local electronics components shop. Here's an alternative that costs a couple of bucks: JT&T Products (2659F) - Toggle Weatherproof Switch Boot, Fits Standard 1/2" Switch Stem.

Tools Needed

Crimper/stripper -- Not needed if you’ll be soldering your connections. Do not just use pliers. They don’t have the right kind of jaws to create a secure, long-lasting, trouble-free connection. At the minimum, use something like the GB® Light Duty Crimper (GS-388), from Ace Hardware.

Soldering iron and electrical solder -- Optional. Not needed if you’ll be crimping your connections. Important Note: Do not use plumbing solder.

Phillips screwdriver -- for removing/installing the headlight lens assembly. Tip: I use a Craftsman Bit Ratchet Screwdriver, item #00941716000. It allows great control and fits in very tight places. See craftsman.com (or other similar) for details or alternatives.

10mm socket wrench or equiv -- for removing the headlight shell, as needed to install your passing lamps and wiring.

8mm socket wrench or equiv -- for removing the turn signal light assemblies, as needed.

Drill and appropriate size, high-speed drill bit -- if you will be putting in your own toggle switch.

Center punch -- for dimpling your drill hole, if you will be putting in your own toggle switch.

Taking Things Apart

Follow the disassembly instructions for your kit, in preparation to install the new parts. In general, and specifically for the Road Star, that means the following:

1. First, cover the front fender, wheel, fork, and floor area with soft, thick padding. Any parts or

tools dropped can scratch and dent themselves and/or the bike.

2. Disconnect at least one terminal of the battery.

3. Remove the headlight lens/bezel assembly. To do this on the Road Star, unscrew the two

phillips-head screws at the sides of the bezel, at approximately the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. Tip: DO NOT unscrew the forward-facing, deep-set screws in the bezel, they are headlight aiming screws.

4. Now the bottom of the bezel can be swung out a little, and lifted up and off the headlight shell.

However, it will still be attached via a wiring harness. The next step disconnects the harness.

5. Now unplug the wiring connector at the rear of the headlight lens.

6. If the turn signal light bar is to be removed for your kit, pull off the chrome-plastic cover just

below the headlight, in the center of the turn signal bar.

7. If, but only if, you will be removing the turn signal bar on your Road Star, remove or loosen the

entire headlight shell. Do this by bending open the two wire harness restraints in the shell to allow the wiring to move freely. Then remove the 10mm bolt from the lower-center area inside of the shell. Then, depending on your lamp kit, loosen or remove the two remaining 10mm bolts from the inside of the shell. Caution: There are thick spacers beneath the bolts. They can easily fall out when removing the shell. Be careful they don’t scratch or dent anything, or get lost, if they fall. Also, two of the bolts are the same, but the lowest one is a different length. Keep track.

8. Wiggle the headlight shell loose or off. If the shell is being removed, disconnect the brown,

green, and black turn-signal wiring connectors, and use caution as you pull the shell free of the wiring harnesses, making clear note of where each harness enters the shell.

9. If the turn signal bar is to be removed, unscrew the two retaining bolts holding the bar -- they are

located near its center area -- and remove the bar.

10. If your stock turn signals are to be reused without the bar, such as with the Yamaha Passing Lamp kit, do the following:

 Remove the 8mm bolt/nut for both light assemblies -- but only one at a time.

 Wiggle and pull the assembly free of the turn signal bar. Be careful not to pinch or stretch the wiring inside. As you extract the light assembly, help the wiring connectors at the center of the stock turn signal bar to exit without undo stress on the wires or connectors.

 Once the amber light assembly is completely free of the bar, note from which side -- left or right -- the light came, so it can be used on the same side when reused.

 Perform the same removal process on the other light assembly.

Installing a Toggle Switch

Decide where you want the switch, if one will be used. Many riders install the switch in one of the passing lamp shells. Some passing lamp kits come with a pre- drilled hole in one lamp shell. Note: I put my switch in the left-rear of my headlight shell. See photo right.

Protection Tip 1: In the photo right, I covered the outside of the headlight shell with blue painters tape to protect it from scratches while I worked on it. Caution must still be exercised however. The tape is not power tool proof nor impact proof nor fool proof. But it does help.

Reinforcement Tip 2: As seen in the photo, I glued the on/off switch plate that came with my toggle switch to the inside of the headlight shell to help add thickness and strength around the hole.

shell to help add thickness and strength around the hole. Rust Prevention Tip 3: I had

Rust Prevention Tip 3: I had noticed that after several years of normal riding, my headlight shell was showing some signs of rusting inside. So I wire brushed all the rust and scuff the remaining finish. Then I brush painted with a protective silver paint. The paint is just for rust protection.

Next use a center punch to mark the hole’s center, and drill the mounting hole, as desired.

Do not install the switch yet. First it needs to be wired.

Installing the Light Bar and Lamps

Now you must follow the hardware (non-electrical) installation instructions for your kit, to get all the new components -- lights, bars, etc. -- in place.

If the instructions have not already had you replace your headlight shell, assuming it was removed, do this now. Be sure you get all the wiring harnesses fed back into their original holes, but do not re-secure them to the in-shell restraints yet. Tip: Remember those bolt spacers, if the headlight shell was removed. See diagram below for guidance.

shell was removed. See diagram below for guidance. Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by randysgym, ©Randy

Wiring the Lamps and Maybe a Toggle Switch

Depending on which Operation Option you chose from Page 1, follow the instructions in the appropriate section below.

Option 1: Lamps Always Stay On -- No Toggle

section below. Option 1: Lamps Always Stay On -- No Toggle This option simply connects a
section below. Option 1: Lamps Always Stay On -- No Toggle This option simply connects a

This option simply connects a POWER wire directly to your passing lamps. It does this via spade connectors so you can always disconnect your lamps if you need to.

The Road Star uses a two- color, red/yellow, striped wire as its 12 volt, always- on-when-the-ignition-is-on, power wire. Locate this power wire inside the headlight shell and splice/tap into it.

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To make this tap wire, cut a 3 inch, or so, piece of the wire you will use as your POWER tap wire. Crimp or solder a female spade connector onto one end. See diagram, right.

Next, use a splice or tap connector or solder the other end of your tap wire to a convenient spot on the bike’s red/yellow wire.

At this point you’ll want to be sure you have the power leads (the wires) for both passing lamps terminating together in the headlight shell. See diagram, right.

Now use a splice or tap connector or solder one of the leads to the other one, leaving at least 3 inches of free-end length on one wire. Then crimp or solder a male spade connector to the remaining free end.

Plug this spade connector into the connector you previously made for the power wire, and proceed to Finishing Your Installation.

power wire, and proceed to Finishing Your Installation . Option 2: Lamps Go On/Off With the

Option 2: Lamps Go On/Off With the Headlight Dimmer Control -- No Separate Toggle Switch

This option simply connects the HIGH-BEAM wire directly to your passing lamps. It does this via spade connectors so you can always disconnect your lamps if you need to.

The Road Star uses a yellow wire as its high- beam power wire. Locate that wire in the wiring harness that plugs into the back of the headlight. Then splice/tap into it.

into the back of the headlight. Then splice/tap into it. Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by

To make this tap wire, cut a 3 inch, or so, piece of the wire you will use as your HIGH BEAM tap wire. Crimp or solder a female spade connector onto one end. See diagram, right.

Next, use a splice or tap connector or solder the other end of your tap wire to a convenient spot on the bike’s yellow wire.

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At this point you’ll want to be sure you have the

power leads (wires) for both passing lamps terminating together in the headlight shell. See diagram, right.

Now use a splice or tap connector or solder one of the leads to the other one, leaving at least 3 inches of free-end length on one wire. Then crimp or solder a male spade connector to the remaining free end.

Plug this spade connector into the connector you previously made for the high-beam wire, and proceed to Finishing Your Installation.

wire, and proceed to Finishing Your Installation . Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by randysgym, ©Randy
wire, and proceed to Finishing Your Installation . Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by randysgym, ©Randy

Option 3: Lamps Turn On/Off With a Toggle Switch

This option simply connects a POWER wire to your passing lamps via a simple on/off switch. Spade connectors are used so you can always disconnect things if you need to later on.

so you can always disconnect things if you need to later on. If this is the

If this is the option you want to use, the back of your switch has two terminals:

 Power in

 Power out

Be sure you orient your switch in the direction you want. Most will want ON to be in the UP position.

The Road Star uses a two-color, red/yellow, striped wire as its 12 volt, always-on-when-the-ignition-is- on, power wire. Locate that wire inside the headlight shell and splice/tap into it.

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To make this tap wire, cut a 3 inch, or so, piece of the wire you will use as your POWER tap wire. Crimp or solder a female spade connector onto one end. Heat-shrink or tape exposed areas of the connector as needed. See diagram, right.

Next, use a splice or tap connector or solder the other end of your tap wire to a convenient spot on the bike’s red/yellow wire. Be sure you heat-shrink or tape the exposed wiring.

wire. Be sure you heat-shrink or tape the exposed wiring. Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by

Now make the corresponding wire segment for the toggle switch. To do this, cut another piece of the same wire long enough to reach from the tap wire you made to your toggle switch install-location. Crimp or solder a male spade connector onto one end. See diagram, right.

Then, crimp or solder a ring-connector (assuming your toggle has screw terminals), or a spade connector (if your toggle has spade terminals) to the other end. Be sure you heat-shrink or tape exposed areas of the connectors as needed. Fasten your wire segment to one terminal of the switch, but do not plug the spade connectors together yet. Tip: If your switch is going to be in one of the passing lamp shells, you may need to route the wire between that location and the headlight shell prior to installing the wire's connectors.

shell prior to installing the wire's connectors. At this point you’ll want to be sure you

At this point you’ll want to be sure you have the power leads (wires) for both passing lamps terminating together near your switch install-location. Example: If your toggle switch will be in the left passing lamp shell then the leads for BOTH passing lamps must terminate to the rear of the left shell. Since my toggle switch is in the headlight shell, as shown in the diagram, both of my passing lamp power wires terminate there. See diagram, right.

Now use a splice or tap connector or solder one of the leads to the other one, leaving at least 3 inches of free-end length on one wire. Next cover exposed areas with tape or heat-shrink as always. Then crimp or solder a male spade connector to the remaining free end, covering exposed areas of course.

to the remaining free end, covering exposed areas of course. Now the only remaining wiring is

Now the only remaining wiring is to make a corresponding wire segment for the toggle switch. To do this, cut a piece of wire long enough to reach from your passing lamps connector to your switch install-location. See the orange wire in the diagram, right.

Crimp or solder a female spade connector onto one end. Then crimp or solder a ring-connector (assuming your toggle has screw terminals), or a spade connector (if your toggle has spade terminals) to the other end. Heat-shrink or tape exposed areas of the connectors as needed. Fasten your wire segment to the other terminal of the switch, but do not plug the spade connectors together yet.

Proceed to Finishing Your Installation.

together yet. Proceed to Finishing Your Installation . Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by randysgym, ©Randy

Option 4: Lamps Toggled

DOWN

UP
UP

to Stay On, or

to Go On/Off With the Dimmer

If this is the option you chose, your switch has three terminals:

 Power in from main power

 Power in from high-beam

 Power out (the center terminal)

Power in from high-beam  Power out (the center terminal) The Road Star uses a two-color,
Power in from high-beam  Power out (the center terminal) The Road Star uses a two-color,

The Road Star uses a two-color, red/yellow, striped wire as its 12 volt, always-on-when- the-ignition-is-on, power wire. Also, the

bike uses a yellow wire as its high-beam power wire. Locate those wires inside the headlight shell and splice/tap into them.

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To make the first tap wire, cut a 3 inch, or so, piece

of the wire you will use as your POWER tap wire. Crimp or solder a female spade connector onto one end. See the blue wire in the diagram, right.

Next, make a tap wire for the high-beam power. To do this, cut a 3 inch, or so, piece of the wire you will use as your HIGH BEAM tap wire. Crimp or solder a male spade connector onto one end. See the orange wire in the diagram, right.

Next, use a splice or tap connector or solder the other end of your tap wires to convenient spots on the bike’s wiring. Blue tap-wire to bike’s red/yellow wire. Orange tap-wire to bike’s yellow wire.

Now make the corresponding wire segment for the toggle switch. To do this, cut another piece of wire long enough to reach from your tap wire to your toggle switch install-location. See diagram, right.

Crimp or solder a male spade connector onto one end. Then, crimp or solder a ring-connector (assuming your toggle has screw terminals), or a spade connector (if your toggle has spade terminals) to the other end. Fasten your

wire segment to an end terminal of the switch, but do not plug the spade connectors together yet. Tip: If your switch is going to be in one of the passing lamp shells, you may want to route the wire between that location and the headlight shell prior to installing the wire's connectors.

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shell prior to installing the wire's connectors. | | At this point you’ll want to be

At this point you’ll want to be sure you have the power leads (wires) for both passing lamps terminating together near your switch install-location. Example: If your toggle switch will be in the left passing lamp shell then the leads for BOTH passing lamps must terminate to the rear of the left shell. Since my toggle switch is in the headlight shell, as shown in the diagram, both my passing lamp power wires terminate there. See diagram, right.

Now use a splice or tap connector or solder one of the leads to the other one, leaving at least 3 inches of free-end length on one wire. Then crimp or solder a male spade connector to the remaining free end.

or solder a male spade connector to the remaining free end. | | Now, make a

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Now, make a corresponding wire segment for the toggle switch. To do this, cut a

short piece of wire, ideally the same color as the lamps wire. See diagram, right.

the same color as the lamps wire. See diagram, right. Crimp or solder a female spade

Crimp or solder a female spade connector onto one end. Then crimp or solder a ring-connector (assuming your toggle has screw terminals), or a spade connector (if your toggle has spade terminals) to the other end. Fasten this wire to the center terminal of the switch, but don’t plug the spade connectors together yet.

Now make the corresponding wire segment for the toggle switch. To do this, cut another piece of the same wire long enough to reach from your tap wire to your toggle switch install-location. See diagram, left.

to your toggle switch install-location. See diagram, left. Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by randysgym, ©Randy

Crimp or solder a female spade connector onto one end. Then, crimp or solder a ring-connector (assuming your toggle has screw terminals), or a spade connector (if your toggle has spade terminals) to the other end. Fasten your wire segment to the remaining terminal of the switch, but do not plug the spade connectors together yet. Tip: If your switch is going to be in one of the passing lamp shells, you may want to route the wire between that location and the headlight shell prior to installing the wire's connectors.

Proceed to Finishing Your Installation.

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Option 5: 3-Way Switch Setup

This option is wired exactly the same as Option 4, above. The only difference is in the toggle switch you use. The option above uses a 2-position toggle, whereas this option uses a 3-position toggle -- the center position being, Always-Off. If you chose this option, follow the wiring instructions for Option 4, above. Just be sure you purchase an On/Off/On toggle switch. See Page 2 or the box-note, at right, for details on purchasing switches.

the box-note, at right, for details on purchasing switches. Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by randysgym,

Money Saving Tip: If you are using a 6-terminal, DPDT switch (which I find to be cheaper than 3- terminal, SPDT switches), you can make it work like a 3-terminal, SPDT switch just by shorting the two sides together. See photo below. To do this, make a small wire with connectors on each end. Then fasten one connector onto the switch’s left-center terminal, and fasten the other connector onto the switch’s right-center terminal. Now you can use either of the upper terminals interchangeably and either of the lower terminals interchangeably.

and either of the lower terminals interchangeably. Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by randysgym, ©Randy

Finishing Up

If you wired for a toggle switch, you can now install it and plug your spade connectors together. Then re-secure the headlight wiring restraints by bending them onto the harnesses. See photo below.

Photo peculiarity explanation:

In the photo, right, wiring connectors were wrapped with soft cloth to reduce rattle while riding on rough roadways.

Note too, that white Velcro strips were used to further dampen any rattling.

Also, the spade connectors shown in the photo were for an earlier toggle installation. Please ignore them.

And, of course, the garage door opener shown is not part of this project.

the garage door opener shown is not part of this project. Finish whatever needs doing for

Finish whatever needs doing for the passing lamps kit, reconnect the battery, and then test your installation. Caution: Be sure you're ready before turning the ignition switch on. When you energize the ignition, any exposed points along the wires and at the connectors can shock you or short and blow a fuse.

Since your headlight is still removed you won’t be able to verify that it still works yet, but everything else should work without it.

If it all checks out, turn the ignition back off, plug the headlight lens back in to its connector and hook the bezel back onto the shell. Then just work the bezel into place until the screw holes in the bezel align with the mounting threads in the shell. Now screw the phillips screws back in.

Do a final check and test to be sure all is well and you haven't forgotten anything; then you’re good to go. Job well done I'm sure!

Appendix A -- Running a Dedicated Power Wire from the Battery

Do you even need this?

Determining Your Need

The Road Star has a wiring circuit dedicated to the headlight, taillight, and a few dash lights -- the Headlight Circuit. It incorporates a fuse in the main fuse box, rated at 15 amps.

When the ignition is on, these lights continually draw the following, approximately:

63

watts (5.3 amps), for 2004+ models

68

watts (5.7 amps), for 2003- models

Since it's generally accepted that a lighting circuit should be limited to about 85% of its capacity, this 15 amp circuit should not be asked to supply more than 12.7 amps (152 watts). This means you should limit all accessory add-on demand attached to this circuit to:

89

watts (7.4 amps), for 2004+ models

84

watts (7.0 amps), for 2003- models

Find the wattage of your passing lamps. Tip: The Yamaha passing lamp accessory usually comes with 35 watt bulbs, but 25 watts up to 55 watts are common replacements. Now double the wattage since there are two bulbs.

Remember: To convert watts to amps divide the watts by 12, and to convert amps to watts multiply the amps by 12. Note: The twelve comes from voltage. The Road Star uses a 12 volt battery.

The bottom line is this: Assuming you have not tapped into the headlight circuit for other accessories -- heated grips, radio, fog lamps, etc. -- and assuming your lamps are 35 watts (the most common) then your total demand on the Headlight Circuit wiring will be as follows:

87% for 2004+ Road Stars 90% for 2003- Road Stars

If you're OK with that, then you do not need to run a separate wire to power your lamps; you can ignore the rest of this appendix, and return to the main article. But if you feel it would be prudent to add a separate circuit, follow the instructions below to power your lamps via a separate, dedicated wire from the battery.

Or here’s a creative solution via Joe Friday: Repurpose the 10amp, carb heater circuit. If you ride only in warm weather -- say above 50 degrees or so -- or if you have upgraded your stock carb to an aftermarket one, you aren’t using the carb heater anyway. If this is the case, you could disconnect the carburetor’s heating wires and use them for powering your passing lamps. 10amps equates to 120watts.

Note, however, if you do this, you will not be able to easily revert back to the stock carb heater. To go this route, first locate the Heater Thermo Sensor. It’s behind the bike’s left side-cover, on a rubber mounted tab. It’s the little, black, thumb-nail looking component closest to you as you remove the side-

cover, and has two black wires going into it. If you’re sure you won’t be using your carb heater in the future, just cut the two wires, and fasten them together (solder or butt-connector).

Then you can cut the heater fitting off the carb end of the wires. It’s the brown/blue striped wire. Re- route this wire toward the front of the bike. Of course, you’ll need to splice on a length of wire long enough for your purpose. I’d also recommend you change the label in your fuse box.

Then go back to the top of this article. Follow the instructions for the option you choose, except use your newly repurposed wire instead of the bike’s red/yellow striped power wire. Also, you will not need to wire a relay as shown below. Thanks again Joe.

Additional Materials Needed

In addition to the materials and instructions in the main part of this article, you'll also need the following:

16 or 14 gauge, flexible, stranded copper wire. I recommend red or white. This is the wire to supply the main power for your lamps. Use 14 gauge if you want to be able to safely run more than 150 watts on this wire. Get 6 or 8 feet.

Ring Connector -- large enough to fit the battery

Relay -- You'll need a 12VDC SPDT relay, rated for 20amps or higher. They are available at most auto parts stores as well as amazon.com and other automotive supply places. If the relay you get has only 4 terminals, make sure it has the tab marked as "87". It's OK if the tab marked as "87a" is missing. Tip:

Solid-state relays may work extremely well, but they tend to be an unnecessary added expense, IMO. The cheaper contact-points type relay should work well enough. Note however, I splurged for solid- state.

12VDC, 4 or 5 pin, Relay Socket -- to fit the relay you purchase. They are available at most auto parts stores as well as amazon.com and other automotive supply places.

12VDC, In-Line Fuse Holder -- and a 10amp or 20 amp fuse. Use a 10amp fuse for 16 gauge wire and no other accessories attached to the circuit. You can use a 20 amp fuse for 14 gauge wire.

Butt-Splice Connectors -- 5 or so, unless you will be soldering your connections.

Additional Spade Connectors, or other type -- 4 sets, suitable for the size wire you use. That means, if you're installing 14 gauge wire, be sure to get at least one 14 gauge spade-connector set (male/female), plus three 16 gauge sets. If you're installing 16 gauge wire you can just get four 16 gauge sets.

Wiring Guidelines

First decide where you want your new wire to be routed. You may want the in-line fuse to be accessible behind the left-side cover, like the other fuses. Or you may consider placing the fuse inside the headlight shell, as there is usually a lot of empty space available there.

After disconnecting the battery, removing the fuel tank, and the removing the headlight lens/bezel assembly, run your new power wire between the battery's left-side area and the headlight shell. To do this, feed the wire along the left side of the frame's backbone and through the wiring goose-neck harness. The goose-neck harness is the soft, black, rubber, wiring tube that goes from the left, forward section of the frame's backbone, past the steering head, and into the headlight shell. Tip:Use a long, stiff wire, and a great deal of time and patience, to fish the new wire through the goose-neck harness.

Now splice the in-line fuse holder to your new wire, leaving enough free wire to be able to reach the positive battery post at one end and the passing lamp wiring at the other end.

Cut the wire to proper length for your application, then crimp or solder a ring fitting for the battery terminal on the end nearest the battery. Do not yet attach anything to the battery, though. Now crimp or solder a properly sized female spade connector to the headlight end of your new power wire.

Depending on which of the toggle wiring options you choose, refer to the appropriate wiring diagram shown below instead of the diagram shown in the wiring sections of the main article.

Next, cut a short piece of wire to use as your power-in wire for the relay. Just be sure it will reach from the connector on the end of your new power wire to the placement location for your relay. Crimp or solder a properly sized male spade connector to one end. Connect the other end of the wire to the proper wire-lead on the relay socket you purchased. It should be the one associated with the relay terminal marked as "30".

Now, if your relay socket does not have integrated wire leads, make and fasten short wire-leads for the

remaining relay socket terminals. Then crimp or solder spade connectors to these wire-leads, as follows:

 To the wire-lead associated with the relay terminal marked as "87", crimp or solder a female spade connector. This will connect with your passing lamp power connector.

 To the wire-lead associated with the relay terminal marked as "85", crimp or solder a male spade connector. This will connect with the connector from the output of your toggle switch. If you will have no such switch, then connect this to the red/yellow wire or yellow wire from the bike's wiring, as desired. Refer to the main instructions for details.

 To the wire-lead associated with the relay terminal marked as "86", crimp or solder a male spade connector. This will connect to ground. To do this, tap into the black wire from the headlight connector harness.

 If you have a 5-pin (tab) relay socket, do not attach anything to the wire-lead associated with the relay terminal marked as "87a".

The relay can be fastened to your headlight shell (or other area) with silicone adhesive, or other method. Depending on which wiring option you choose, refer to the appropriate wiring diagram shown below instead of the diagram shown in the wiring sections of the main article:

Option 1: Lamps Always Stay On -- No Toggle

Option 1: Lamps Always Stay On -- No Toggle Option 2: Lamps Go On/Off With the

Option 2: Lamps Go On/Off With the Headlight Dimmer

Toggle Option 2: Lamps Go On/Off With the Headlight Dimmer Installing Passing Lamps w/Toggle -- by

Now, return to Page 1 of this document and complete the rest of your wiring.

Option 3: Lamps Turn On/Off With a Toggle Switch

wiring. Option 3: Lamps Turn On/Off With a Toggle Switch Now, return to Page 1 of

Now, return to Page 1 of this document and complete the rest of your wiring.

Option 4: Lamps Toggled

DOWN

UP
UP

to Stay On, or

to Go On/Off With the Dimmer

Toggled DOWN UP to Stay On, or to Go On/Off With the Dimmer Now, return to

Now, return to Page 1 of this document and complete the rest of your wiring.

Option 5: 3-Way Switch Setup

Option 5: 3-Way Switch Setup Now, return to Page 1 of this document and complete the

Now, return to Page 1 of this document and complete the rest of your wiring.

Appendix B -- Possible Grounding Issues

Most passing lamps have only one lead -- the power (hot/live) wire. A ground wire is not considered necessary since the entire frame of the bike is designed to function as one big ground wire, conducting power back to the battery's negative pole. This practice has worked in vehicles of all types for many decades. However, I believe there can be a problem with this for motorcycle lighting.

The only contact point between the bike's frame and the entire fork assembly is at the steering head. This assembly consists of two sets of greased bearings which may not offer ideal conductivity between the front-end and the rest of the bike. I believe this may be why the headlight has a dedicated ground wire.

My passing lamps kept burning out bulbs. Suspecting it might be a poor grounding issue after I had thoroughly repacked my steering-head bearings with a non-conductive grease, I decided to replace my passing lamp bulbs with ones that featured an actual ground wire terminal. Since then I’ve had no more burnt out bulbs. Coincidence? Maybe. Maybe not.

…I’m just sayin’…