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Heat cycle..........running an engine in Password Log in
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24072007, 12:43 #1
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Basingstoke Hants
Marky BMP Posts: 8,761
Apex Models Team Driver
Heat cycle..........running an engine in
Thought it was about time we had a "Heat Cycle, How to run an engine in" thread, since alot of members are asking what does "heat cycle mean"
I've copied and pasted this from another forum, as i think it's a very good explanation, and a great step by step guide.
Quote:
heat up case to about 210220 degrees before starting up for the first 7
tanks. wrapped head with industrial style paper towels i got from work.
tank 1= idle on box, keeping it around 210225 degrees
tank 2= same as above
tank 3=same as above but this time off the box, just sitting on the deck
surface
tank 4= on the street with about 25% throttle control. temps got hot
REALLY quick. but tamed it down to around 230
tank 5= same as above, but fattened up to run at 220 high
tank 6= same as above with 50 % throttle control. temps holding great
tank 7= unwrapped head. leaned out alot to get hotter temps
tank 8= unwrapped head, ran at 75% throttle.
tank 9 = start to race tune, but keeping it slightly on the rich side (HSN)
Allow the engine to fully cool down between tanks, with the piston at BDC (bottom dead centre)
As you can see, from the very first time you start the engine you need to get the temps over 200, this will reduce the amount of stress placed on
the rod when it slams into the "pinch zone".
This is a tried and tested method and should insure a long life from your engine.
Remember to change airfilters on a regular bassis and keep the engine clean, an engine caked in mud and crud will just get hotter due to the mud
acting like a blanket ;)
Here's a (click here>)link with even more facts about why should get those temps in the 200's from the very first time you fire the engine up B)
Marky
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24072007, 12:48 #2
Join Date: Jan 2006
minny
Location: Bolton!
Posts: 732
Member
the johnny cool guy version
ENGINE BREAKIN LIKE THE PROS
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and
performance out of his OS motor. This breakin method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).
If you are still idling at least a tank through during breakin, you're using the oldschool accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not
the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this)
recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 23 minute intervals, tuned only
*slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 23 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the
piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3 4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM
and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with
breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 2025 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track
and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the oldschool "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this
breakin routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the
"old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very
rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the
piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The notsosurprising result can be a cracked conrod at the crank pin that's where the majority of the
stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 68 OS engines breaking conrods, and they're ALWAYS during the first
gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why
it's happening. Drawing out the breakin routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've
outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this breakin method a shot you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
__________________
24072007, 12:50 #3
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Basingstoke Hants
Marky BMP Posts: 8,761
Apex Models Team Driver
Quote:
Originally posted by minny@Jul 24 2007, 11:48 AM
the johnny cool guy version
ENGINE BREAKIN LIKE THE PROS
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get
more life and performance out of his OS motor. This breakin method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine
(except for ringed engines).
If you are still idling at least a tank through during breakin, you're using the oldschool accepted method (still works well for
some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few
I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 23 minute
intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 23 minutes, shut the
engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min
or so, and then bump up to 34 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you
want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly
rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 2025 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I
realize this method goes against the oldschool "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this
breakin routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer
than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS
settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and
every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The notsosurprising result can be a cracked
conrod at the crank pinthat's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 68
OS engines breaking conrods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have
performed the breakin procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the
breakin routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will
feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this breakin method a shotyou have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
Link added in original post
Was trying to find it
Marky
__________________
24112007, 21:30 #4
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Basingstoke Hants
Marky BMP Posts: 8,761
Apex Models Team Driver
Re: Heat cycle..........running an engine in
Adam Drakes method of heat cycling an engine, slightly different to the above methods, due to not hitting 200* on each tank, but still has the
desired effect
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09032008, 23:25 #5
Join Date: Mar 2008
Technex Location: London
Numpty of the Month Posts: 58
Re: Heat cycle..........running an engine in
Deleted
Last edited by Technex : 24 082008 at 20:46.
05092008, 20:24 #6
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Haw, Surrey, UK
Beanie Posts: 1,060
Active Member
Re: Heat cycle..........running an engine in
The first method suggests keeping the engine at 200 deg. F for a whole tank, but the 'cool guy and drake methods seem to suggest that you get
the engine up to roughly 200 and then immediately look to cool it back down by either stopping it, or richening a la Drake?
Which is best?
up to temp for a whole tank and let it sit at 200 until it runs out of fuel and then cool down
or
get it up to temp and then immediately shut off, cool down and then restart?
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05092008, 20:32 #7
Join Date: Oct 2005
damstac Location: Newcastle upon tyne
Member Posts: 916
Re: Heat cycle..........running an engine in
I use the Jonny Cool method and it works great but does take a long time to do it properly.
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05092008, 22:41 #8
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Haw, Surrey, UK
Beanie Posts: 1,060
Active Member
Re: Heat cycle..........running an engine in
Hmm....might combine both methods in a way.
Wrap the head and get it up to 200 ASAP, then unwrap it and let it idle at 200 for 34 minutes and then shut it off. Cool down and then start
again. Going to do this for 2 tanks and then do the same but this time on the ground using a little throttle and then shut off after 34 minutes.
Couple of tanks like that and then maybe start to lean out the HSN a little...
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Losi 8T (Spek, ACE's, Mach427)
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19012009, 21:45 #9
Join Date: May 2008
Ross71
Location: Dunstable
Member Posts: 323
Re: Heat cycle..........running an engine in
Quick question for those in the know, can i ask why on the 3rd tank i have to take the car of the starter box, or was this wrote on the
1st of April
Cheers Ross
heat up case to about 210220 degrees before starting up for the first 7
tanks. wrapped head with industrial style paper towels i got from work.
tank 1= idle on box, keeping it around 210225 degrees
tank 2= same as above
tank 3=same as above but this time off the box, just sitting on the deck
surface
tank 4= on the street with about 25% throttle control. temps got hot
REALLY quick. but tamed it down to around 230
tank 5= same as above, but fattened up to run at 220 high
tank 6= same as above with 50 % throttle control. temps holding great
tank 7= unwrapped head. leaned out alot to get hotter temps
tank 8= unwrapped head, ran at 75% throttle.
tank 9 = start to race tune, but keeping it slightly on the rich side (HSN)
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19012009, 21:56 #10
Join Date: Jul 2008
S3 NUTT Location: S.Wales
Member Posts: 408
Re: Heat cycle..........running an engine in
Yes thats what i thought
I just went with it
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