Fansipan.

Where clouds are born

By Nathalie Sokolovskaya
For Ch.

Great is mountainous chain I will climb up the very sacred peak

The peak to the peak.
Just if the Nature used all her skills
To divide the North and the South
Into twilights and dawns
Being born on its slopes ,
Clouds are flying, free from cares
Now how jealous I am of birds.
I am standing still,
Stricken by the thought;
To observe from its top
How small are other mountains,
Compared , with it’s fabulous height
Du Fu.
Contemplating the sacred peak.
VIIIcentury.Feudal China
Translated by N.Sokolovskaya

The Northern region of Vietnam,bordering with China is an amazing mountainous

land with the natural beauty almost untouched, with grandious vistas,immense
glistening mirrors of rice puddies,filled with water,with the wind made off
pinewoods smoke,mix of herbs,indigo and juicy forest leaves. The land of dense
fog turning each close corner of snaky mountanous road in to the edge or the end
of the univers The mysterious land, inhabitated mainly with hill tribes known as
tireless walkers,skilled healers,mighty sorcerers and most hospitable people in
Vietnam.
Fansipan is a splendid peak of mountainous chain Hoang Lien Son, dividing
Chinese Yunnan and Vietnamese Lao Cai provinces.Its a place where the great Da
and Red rivers take its sources .Fansipan,with its height of 3.143 m is the roof of
Indochina and the only snowy peak of tropical Vietnam .
It stayed the terra incognita, untouched and unseen by the civilization till the
beginning of XX century. Its in early 1900s,during the time of great Indochinese
geographical discoveries when the first expeditions to Fansipan have been
undertaken by French researchers on biology,geography and ethnology.Right
during those years the central highlands have been explored by French with Dalat
established as summer capital of colonial administration,coming there from the
south of Vietnam, and Fansipan peak was conquered with Sapa founded at its foot
as summer residence of French officials from the North.
It s still unknown whether the adventurous French scientists from the first
expeditions managed to reach Fansipan’s very peak , but they definitely had
reached the altitude of 2963m where they have installed a beton pillar that still can
be seen today.It is dated by 1905.The famous French botanist Lecomte had
undertook the research on mountain flora in Fansipan in 1907.
The richest flora of Fansipan with original forests system,combining amazingly
those of temperate and tropical climates and the great diversity of
flowers,particularly- orchids,some of which are unique and can only be found
there, tempted and tempts not only researchers but all nature admirers from all over
the world.Fansipan is one of the rare places where happy co-existence of pines and
rhododendrons with palms and bamboos can be seen.
First tours to Fansipan for striving french tourists have been organized starting
from late 20s,when Sapa became a popular resort station amongst colonial
officials.Originally they were undertaken on the horses accompanied with guides
and coolies from local montagnards fully armed for the case of unexpected
meeting with carnivores.However those last were all hunted and eaten soon
subsequently.
The first auberge off bamboo for pilgrims en route to the cloudy peak of Fansipan
was built on the altitude of 2200m in 1930s.Starting from those years the
pedestrian stream of Fansipans conquerors has never drained.
During the 1940s one of the peaks of Fansipan was used as a secret military
airfield,safely hidden by dense forest on the altitude of 2700m.
The height of the very summit-3143m ,was officially vanquished and marked in
1984 by the group of Russian and German athletes who have carried up and
installed on the peak the 30kg metal pyramidal stellar .
Throughout the years Fansipan has not only given the unforgettable experience
and everlasting bright impression to many adventurous tourists but also has it
given health and life not to a single sick person,happened to be the only mighty
healer for those ,loosing the last hope to recover from serious illnesses. The unique
healing power of the herbs growing on its slopes has become a subject of many
half-mystic stories with sorcery and shamans from indigenous montagnards
weaved in.In fact local hill tribes mainly H’Mong and Red Dao
minorities,inhabitating Hoang Lien Son area has gained an admirable skills in
herbal healing.Red Dao herbal bath is a must-do option when being to Sapa.But
their more sophisticated mixtures should be treated with care. One of the verified
amazing stories about miraculous healing given by Fansipan herbs is of Tran Van
Lam, a Vietnamese man, striken by heavy liver deseace who had spent in the deep
of Fansipan forests 3 years trying to find the medical herb that could rescue his
life.And he finally did. On his return to the civilization he opened in Sapa a drug
shop selling the unique herbal mixture against liver deseases, which original
recette he certainly keeps in secret.
Conquering the peak of Fansipan adventure is a highly recommended option for all
Sapa visitors ,who is in good shape.The most respectful age of the peak climber
registered is 76years.But don’t underestimate it’s diffilulty. It’s necessary to
consider carefully and choose a track that suits one’s own level of physical
fitness.Before making a final decision one should also put in to consideration the
fact that no means of transport (ie motorbike,car,jeep) are able to make the
Fansipan trail.The only means a traveler can use when climbing are the feet in
reliable hiking or rubber boots, hands, bamboo stick(highly recommended) and …
teeth at some tough sectors seem also to be pretty useful.The only means of
evacuation in a case of injury would be the hands of coolis and compassionate
travel-companions. No helicopter to hope for.The trail ,however, is rather well
paced and supplied with stairs and ropes at the difficult passes.Toilet facilities
which also can’t be ignored ,is an object local authorities has cared for with several
hand-made-hand-digged latrines installed on the way to the peak ,destined for
those who is n’t ready to experience a pissing from incredible height of 2500m
right into the bottomless emptyness.Toilet needs seem to be completely forgotten
when testing one’s endurance in a struggle with challenging climbs and passes,that
compose a the main part of the track.
The best time for climbing it’s peak is from January to June and from October to
December.The tours are ranging from 1 to 4 nights.The optimal option is 3days/2
nights.There are several ways from Sapa leading to Fansipan with Tram Ton trail
starting from Hoang Lien National park to be the most favourable and one from
Sin Chai village to be the most risking. There are two camps on the way to the
summit:on the altitudes of 2200 and 2800m.The toughest climb is from 2300 to
2700m.This sector was even nicknamed the” sector of attempt” where a climber
gets a chance to try its endurance at full.If one manage to make it, then he will
surely be able to climb up the very summit.
The climb is challenging and sometimes even turns into an overcome of one’s
wicknesses but the reward,coming with grandious views is one hundred times
worth of certain physical effort.
The night on the altitude of almost 3000m in the small chalet with cut bamboo
trunks as a mat, the breathtaking starry night at a distance of a hand as a blanket
and the sound of bamboo trees ,disturbed by mountainous wind in the night as a
lullabye is definitely the kind of experience to aspire for.
Climb up the Fansipan peak,get inspired ,be reborn on its summit free from all
squabbles and troubles of daily modern life ,left and forgotten far below,feel
yourself be back to the place where you belong.The place where mountain spirits
sing their songs and clouds are being born.