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Easy

Doughnut
Recipes to
Fry or Bake
at Home

Glazed

Filled
Sugared
&Dipped
Stephen Collucci
with elizabeth gunnison

foreword by tom colicchio

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CLARKSON POTTER

Copyright 2013 by Stephen Collucci


Photographs copyright 2013 by Iain Bagwell
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the
Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.clarksonpotter.com
CLARKSON POTTER is a trademark and POTTER with colophon is a registered
trademark of Random House, Inc.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Collucci, Stephen.
Glazed, filled, sugared & dipped / Stephen Collucci with Liz Gunnison.
pages cm
Includes index.
1. Doughnuts. 2. Cookbooks. lcgft I. Gunnison, Liz. II. Title.
TX770.D67C65 2013
641.86'53dc23
2012035677
ISBN 978-0-7704-3357-4
eISBN 978-0-7704-3358-1
Printed in China
Book and cover design by Rae Ann Spitzenberger
Cover photography by Iain Bagwell
Author photograph by Brent Herrig
10987654321
First Edition

contents
foreword 6

Introduction 9

Before We Begin 12

basic doughnut recipes

26

doughnuts for breakfast


doughnuts for dessert

31

75

fillings, glazes, and sugars


accompaniments
Acknowledgments 157

139

Index 158

129

foreword

by tom colicchio
Once youve been running kitchens for as long as I have, youve employed pretty much
every kind of restaurant industry character in the book. There have been weak cooks,
strong cooks, erratic genius types, shirkers, fame-seekers, guys who are talented
but mutinous, and diligent workers who communicate only in grunts. What you dream
about is a kitchen full of Stephen Colluccis.

Stephen first came to work for me


as a young kid not long out of culinary
school. We had him baking bread for us
at Craftsteak in New York, which went so
well that we asked him to move out West
to help open Craft Los Angeles. By the
time Stephen returned to New York less
than a year later, he had wowed everyone
sufficiently to be offered the companys
top pastry position: running the sweet
side of the kitchen at my flagship
restaurant, Craft.
This was a tall order for a twenty-fouryear-olda job that required striking a
careful balance between expressing his
own creativity and respecting the overall
DNA of the restaurant, which was then in
its eighth year. Stephen slowly but surely

transformed the pastry menu, putting


out dishes that reflected his own tastes
but built upon what his predecessors
had begun. Without any guidance from
anybody, he had managed the tricky
maneuver of finding his own voice without
putting any noses out of joint.
A lot of the time pastry chefs toil in
the shadow of a chef de cuisine, who
serves as the restaurants figurehead and
sets the tone for the kitchen. But more
than anybody, Stephen represents what
it is that Im trying to build at Colicchio
& Sons and at all of my restaurants. Its
not just his superhuman work ethic, his
underdeveloped ego, or his incredible,
unstoppable positivity in the face of
grueling seven-day workweeks and

gluten-avoiding diners. Its


his willingness to put so
much of himself into the
dishes he creates. The work
we do in this business is so
repetitive that its easy for it to
become drudgery. With Stephen,
you can tell that the job is about
more than making widgets or punching
aclock.
That love of the craft shows up on
the plate. It shows in desserts that, in
addition to being technically masterful,
have a visceral, undeniable sense of joy
to them. It shows in the wide smiles of
diners as theyre transported to a different
place and time by a single, powerfully
suggestive flavor.
When Stephen told me that he was
planning to write a doughnut cookbook,
I wasnt surprised. His fried desserts
are some of the best in the business
somehow light and rich at the same
time. Doughnuts also seem to capture,
maybe better than any other confection,

a sense of nostalgia, humor, and delight.


Stephen makes the most of the medium.
What he has created in this cookbook
is a thoughtful collection of his personal
recipes that show just how easy it is to
make doughnuts at home, even for those
who consider themselves novice bakers.
This is a book that was made to be used
to be grease-marked and jelly-stained
not to sit out on a coffee table or up on a
shelf. As you cook from its pages, I hope
you do it Stephens way: have fun with
the thing, taking as much enjoyment in
the process of creating these doughnuts,
sauces, glazes, and such as you do in
serving and eating them.

foreword

morning glory
doughnuts
My first professional cooking gig was at La Bonbonniere Bake Shoppe in Edison,
New Jersey, and boy did we do a good business in Morning Glory muffins. This classic
breakfast pastry typically contains coconut, carrot, pineapple, nuts, and raisins, which
come together in a batter thats full of sunrise colors and bursting with flavor. Ive
decided that theres no reason why muffins should have a monopoly on this cheerful,
gently sweet combination. It also makes for a delicious baked doughnut thats plenty
nutritious enough to be a part of your everyday breakfast. | Makes

6 doughnuts

1 cup all-purpose flour

1Preheat the oven to 325F. Grease a doughnut pan and set

cup plus 1 tablespoon


sugar

itaside.

teaspoon baking powder


teaspoon baking soda
teaspoon ground
cinnamon

2In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle


attachment, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking
soda, cinnamon, and salt. Add the egg, sour cream, and grated
carrot and mix until just combined. Add the pecans, raisins,

teaspoon salt

coconut, and pineapple, and mix until just combined.

1 large egg

3Fit a pastry bag with a #9 round tipor snip a small opening

cup sour cream or crme


frache
cup grated carrot
cup chopped pecans
cup raisins

in a disposable pastry bagand fill the bag halfway with


batter. Pipe the batter delicately into the prepared doughnut
pan, just about 2 tablespoons per mold, so theyre a little over
halfway full (you can also use a small spoon for this job, but
I find piping to be much easier). Be careful not to overfill the

cup unsweetened
coconut flakes, plus extra
for garnish

molds, or your doughnuts will end up looking like muffins.

cup chopped pineapple

then pop the doughnuts out of the pan. Dip the doughnuts

Basic Glaze (page 133)

one at a time in the glaze, sprinkle them with coconut, and put

4Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until golden. Let cool slightly and

them on a wire rack to set (for more information on glazing, see


page 23). Serve immediately, or store in an airtight container
for up to 2 days.

54

Gl a zed, Filled, Sugared & Dipped

Doughnuts for Breakfast

55

58

Gl a zed, Filled, Sugared & Dipped

peach fritters
The idea for these free-form fritters began as funnel cakes paired with roasted
peaches. Eventually, I decided to work the peaches right into the batter to create just
the kind of rustic fried treat that makes me think of state fairs and summer block
parties. The batter itself contains no sugar, with the juicy peaches and dusting of
fritter sugar contributing all of the sweetness. Other firm fruits like nectarines, plums,
pineapple, or even bananas can be substituted for peaches in this recipe, which
means a whole range of fritter options for different seasons.

| Makes about 16fritters


1 cup all-purpose flour

1In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle

1 teaspoon baking powder

attachment, mix the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, and salt.

teaspoon grated nutmeg

Add the eggs and milk and mix well. Add the vanilla and butter,

1 teaspoon salt

and mix until combined into a loose batter. Fold in the diced

2 large eggs

peaches by hand. Cover the batter and put it in the refrigerator

cup whole milk

to cool and rest for at least 20 minutes, and up to 1 day.

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2Heat at least 2 inches of oil in a heavy-bottomed pot fitted

1 tablespoon unsalted
butter, melted and cooled

with a deep-fry thermometer until the oil reaches 350F.

1 cups peeled and diced


peaches

Prepare a baking sheet by lining it with paper towels.

3Using a -ounce (1 inches in diameter) ice cream scoop,

Vegetable oil, for frying

drop balls of batter into the oil, taking care not to crowd the

Fritter Sugar (page 135)

pot. (Note: dipping your ice cream scoop or spoon into the
fryer oil from time to time helps ensure that the dough will
pop neatly and easily into the fryer.) Fry for 2 to 3 minutes,
until golden brown all over. The balls tend to bob in the oil
and rotate on their own, but it doesnt hurt to nudge here and
there so that they cook evenly on all sides. Drain on the papertowel-lined baking sheet (for more information about frying,
see page 21).

4Toss the hot fritters in fritter sugar, and serve them


immediately.

Doughnuts for Breakfast

59

doughnut
bread pudding
Bread pudding is a surefire crowd-pleaser and a great way to make use of bakery
items that would otherwise be destined for the trash bin. This extra-decadent riff
on the classic dish uses day-old doughnuts in place of plain bread. While this recipe
calls for basic cake doughnuts, its entirely open to customization: you can use any
doughnuts you wish. And if you have fewer than ten of them left, simply adjust the
size of the baking dish and cooking time accordingly. Its worth noting that cake
doughnuts do tend to work better than yeast-raised versions, as their crumb does a
better job of absorbing the pudding custard.

2 cups heavy cream


2 cups whole milk
cup sugar
1 tablespoons vanilla
extract
teaspoon salt

| Serves 8

1Preheat the oven to 300F.


2In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, combine the
cream, milk, sugar, vanilla, and salt and bring it to a simmer.

3Meanwhile, in a separate medium bowl, whisk together the


eggs and egg yolks until smooth. Once your pot has reached

4 large eggs

a full simmer, slowly pour half the cream mixture into the egg

3 large egg yolks

mixture, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the sauce

Basic Cake Doughnuts


(page 26), or 10 leftover
cake doughnuts

pan and remove the pan from the heat. Let the mixture cool.
Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve and set itaside.

4Tear the doughnuts into thimble-size pieces and arrange


them tightly in a round baking dish thats about 7 inches in
diameter or in an 8 8-inch baking dish. Pour the custard
over the doughnut pieces, filling the dish just so that
the doughnuts are barely covered. Let sit for
10to 15 minutes so that the doughnuts absorb
thecustard.

5Bake the pudding until the custard is fully


set in the center, about 50 minutes. Serve
immediately.
114

Gl a zed, Filled, Sugared & Dipped

Doughnuts for Dessert

115

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CLARKSON POTTER

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