Anouk Revisited as a Dress

Original Pattern by Kate Gilbert, revisited pattern by Alison Reilly

The very talented Kate Gilbert originally wrote the pattern for Anouk as pinafore, open on both sides but held together by cute button sidebands. This was a great design that allowed for a garment that would grow as a baby grows. When I decided to make this pattern I realized that I was way too lazy to knit both pieces. I am a very lazy knitter, usually opting to take the quick and fast way out of any pattern. Therefore I turned the pinafore into a dress, allowing me to knit the skirt part completely in the round, only having to knit flat for the front and back bodice. Then as I went to knit the pockets, as in Kates original pattern, I realized that I am not a fan of intarsia and looked for any which way to get out of it. I wanted to do something other than pockets so I came up with using duplicate stitching for the flower stems and leaves, and then created 3D flowers to sew on at the end. I used the same shaping as Kates original pattern modifying only the basic concept from a pinafore to a dress, the actual colors, and the pockets (or lack there of in my version). I just want to thank Kate for giving me permission to re-write this pattern using my modifications to turn it into a dress. Without Kates fantastic pattern to start with, this dress wouldnt be nearly as cute! I used the same information from the original pattern where possible to keep things consistent for those of you who are used to the original. photo: Alison Reilly

SIZE 3 months [6 months, 12 months, 18 months] FINISHED MEASUREMENTS To fit chest: 16[17, 18, 19] inches Length: 13.25[15, 16.75, 19] inches MATERIALS Cascade Yarns Pima Tencel [50% Pima Cotton, 50% Tencel; 109yds per 50g skein]; MC: 3183 (Orange); 2[3, 3, 4] skeins CC1: 4084 (Green); 1 skein CC2: 1694 (Blue); 1 skein CC3: 7478 (Red); 1 skein 1 US #6/4mm 24 circular needle 1 US #7/4.5mm or US #8/5mm needle to be used in the three needle bind off at the shoulder 1 US #1/2.5mm or US #2/3mm needle to knit the flowers 1[1, 1, 1] 9/16 inch buttons Yarn needle GAUGE 18 sts/26.5 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch DIRECTIONS Front and Back Skirt With CC1 and size 6, 24" circular needles, CO 69[71, 75, 79] sts, place marker, CO 69[71, 75, 79] sts. Place marker of a different color, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. (NOTE: Rounds 1-5 are worked in a seed stitch) Round 1: *K1, p1* repeat Round 2: *P1, k1* repeat Round 3: *K1, p1* repeat Round 4: *P1, k1* repeat Round 5: *K1, p1* repeat (NOTE: Keep the four stitches after each marker and before each marker in seed stitch) Round 6: p1, k1, p1, k until 4 sts before the marker, work those 4 in seed stitch (knit the purls and purl the knit), slip marker, work the next four stitches in seed stitch (knit the purls and purl the knits), k until 4 sts before the marker, work those 4 stitches in seed stitch

Round 7 (decrease row): k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, ssk, k until 7 sts remain before next marker, k2tog, k1, work next four in seed stitch, slip marker, work next four after marker in seed stitch, k1, ssk, k until 7 stitches remain before next marker, k2tog, k1, work next four in seed stitch. (134[138, 146, 154] sts). Rounds 8 and 9: work first four stitches in seed stitch, k until 4 sts remain before next marker, work those four stitches in seed stitch, slip marker, work first four stitches in seed stitch, k until 4 sts remain before next marker, work those four stitches in seed stitch Repeat rounds 8 and 9 until work measures 6.75[8.25, 9.5, 11.25] inches from beg. AT THE SAME TIME AS YOU ARE REPEATING ROUNDS 8 & 9: Change to MC on round 15 and work the decrease round (as in round 7) as follows: 3 months: Work decreases (as in round 7) in rounds 11, 17, 23, 29, 35, 41. (110 sts). 6 months: Work decreases (as in round 7) in rounds 13, 19, 25, 33, 41, 49. (114 sts). 12 months: Work decreases (as in round 7) in rounds 13, 19, 25, 33, 41, 49. (122 sts). 18 months: Work decreases (as in round 7) in rounds 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53, 61, 69. (122 sts). Front and Back Bodice - here is where you are going to split the pattern off for front and back, working flat from now on. You will work the "next row" on just 1/2 of your piece, and put the remaining stitches on a stitch holder. When you have completed the front, go back and take the stitches off the stitch holder and repeat for the back of the bodice, starting with a RS row as the "next row." 3 months: Next row: Work 4 sts in seed st, k1, (ssk, k2) 5 times, ssk, k1, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) 5 times, k1, work 4 sts in seed st. (43 sts) Work decrease row (as in round 7 but only working the round because now you are working flat) every other row, 4 times. (35 sts) Cont even in patt as established until work measures 11.5 inches from beg, ending with RS facing. 6 months: Next row: Work 4 sts in seed st, k1, (ssk, k2) 6 times, k1, k2tog, (k2, k2tog) 5 times, k1, work 4 sts in seed st. (45 sts) Work decrease row (as in round 7 but only working the round because now you are working flat) every other row, 5 times. (35 sts) Cont even in patt as established until work measures 13.25 inches from beg, ending with RS facing. 12 months: Next row: Work 4 sts in seed st, (k2, ssk) 6 times, k3, (k2tog, k2) 6 times, k1, work 4 sts in seed st. (49 sts) Work decrease row (as in round 7 but only working the round because now you are working flat) every other row, 5 times. (39 sts) Cont even in patt as established until work measures 15 inches from beg, ending with RS facing. 18 months: Next row: Work 4 sts in seed st, (k2, ssk) 6 times, k3, (k2tog, k2) 6 times, k1, work 4 sts in seed st. (49 sts)

Work decrease row (as in round 7 but only working the round because now you are working flat) every other row, 5 times. (39 sts) Cont even in patt as established until work measures 17.5 inches from beg, ending with RS facing. Neck Shaping Work 13[13, 15, 15] sts in patt, place these sts on a holder, BO 9, work to end in patt. Turn and work 1 row even. BO 3 sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row even. BO 2[2, 3, 3] sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row even. BO 2 sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row even. BO 1 st at beg of next row. Work 1 row even. Rejoin yarn and repeat neck shaping for other side, reversing shaping. Left Front Shoulder (all sizes) Next row (RS): K until 4 sts remain on left needle, work 4 sts in seed st. Next row: Work 4 sts in seed st, p to neck. Next row: K until 4 sts remain on left needle, work 4 sts in seed st. Next row: Work 4 sts in seed st, p to neck. Place all sts on holder. Right Front Shoulder (all sizes) Next row (RS): Work 4 sts in seed st, yo, k2tog. [this yo is the buttonhole so make it pretty loose] Next row: Work entire row in seed st Next row: Work entire row in seed st BO in patt. Left Back Shoulder (all sizes) Next row (RS): Work 4 sts in seed st, k rem sts. Next row: Work entire row in seed st Next row: Work entire row in seed st BO in patt. Right Back Shoulder (all sizes) Next row (RS): Work 4 sts in seed st, k rem sts. Next row: P until 4 sts remain on left needle, work 4 sts in seed st. Next row: Work 4 sts in seed st, k rem sts. Next row: P until 4 sts remain on left needle, work 4 sts in seed st. Place all sts on holder. FINISHING With RSs facing each other, bind the shoulders off together using a 3 needle BO and largest straight needles. Sew button on left back shoulder. Collar With MC and circular needle, beg at back left shoulder, pick up 67[67, 71, 71] sts evenly around neck edge. Do not join. Work 4 rows even in seed stitch. Make sure you don't knit the buttonhole closed! BO in patt.

Flowers With CC1 and using duplicate stitching, make 3 stems for your flowers. Space them evenly apart (for the six month size I counted 14 stitches from each side, on the 14th stitch is where I put the stem for each flower, then centered the middle flower stem between those two. Make the two on the outside 12 stitches tall, and the one on the inside 15 stitches tall (you can adjust this for different heights if you so desire). Then make leaves using CC1 and duplicate stitch according to the diagram below. (Each X on the diagram below signals a duplicate stitch. Duplicate stitch should be started at the bottom of each flower on the first row of orange knitting.)

For the flowers, make two in CC3 and one in CC1 as follows: Using a size 1 or 2 needle CO 35 sts. Next row: *k1, bind off 5;* repeat to end - 10 stitches total. Cut an 8" tail of yarn. Thread a needle with the yarn and run that needle through the remaining stitches on the needle, pulling tightly and secure. Sew flowers to stems by sewing over one or two duplicate stitches, and secure each of the flower's pedals to the skirt. Use CC1 to make a French knot in the center of each flower. Sew in all loose ends and block.