RT200 5维修手册

Foreword
R T 2 0 0 - 5
As more and more motorcycles come into the market, new designs and technologies have been widely used. This instruction manual is prepared to enable users and service personnel of the RATO RT200-5 vehicle to master the skills of maintenance, adjustment and repair. We hope that this book can be as instructive as it is wished to both the users and service personnel. The information contained in Sections 1 to 3 is applicable for making necessary adjustments of the vehicle, while Sections 5 to 15 deal with each component part of the vehicle respectively. Standard procedures, precautions and general knowledge are not included in this manual. The user will have to refer to other sources if he or she hopes to get such information. All the information, charts and tables and performance data contained in this book reflect the latest condition of the product. RATO reserves the right to revise any part of the book any time without giving prior notice. All rights reserved, no part of this manual shall be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of RATO.

Table of Contents 1 General Information 2 Lubrication System 3 Checks and Adjustments 4 Fuel supply system 5 Disassembling and Reassembling the Engine 1 12 16 28 34 38 47 54 62 64

Engine
6 Cylinder Head and Valves 7 Cylinder and Piston 8 Clutch, Oil Pump and Gearshift Mechanism 9 Magneto 10 Crankcase, Crankshaft, Gearbox and Starter

Frame
11 Steering System and Front Wheel, Brake and Suspension 74 12 Rear Wheel, Brake and Suspension 13 Battery and Charging System 98 108 113 117 121

Electrics
14 Ignition and Electric Starting System 15 Switches 16 Troubleshooting
General Description
Notes to Maintenance
Maintenance Schedule
Major Technical Data
Electric Diagram
Standard Torque Value Special-purpose Tools
Control Cables and Power Cables
1
1.Use parts, oil and other auxiliary materials produced, appro ved or recommended by RATO only. Use of parts not con forming to RATO specifications or requirements may cau se damage to your vehicle.
2
2.Always use new washers, seals, split pins, etc. to replace old ones once these parts are removed during maintenance or repair of the vehicle.
3 2~3
3.Bolts or nuts should be tightened diagonally in 2-3 times to the required torque.
4
4.Use detergents nonignitable or of a high ignition point for cleaning parts. Apply oil to slide surfaces between parts before putting them together.
5.Always check the parts for proper function as by turning, moving and operating after they are assembled to ensure correct function.
6.The designated general-purpose and special-purpose tools must be used for disassembling or reassembling the vehicle.
1
Major Technical Data

Description Data 2100mm 700mm 1030mm 1340mm 180mm 122Kg
Full length Width Dimension Height Axle base Ground clearance Net weight
Frame shape Front suspension

Two-way composite sleeve
Tube
Rear suspension Unidirectional composite sleeve 2.75-18, 225Kpa Front tire size and pressure Body
Rear tire size and pressure Front brake Rear brake Fuel tank capacity
Reserve oil capacity Front suspension caster angle
100/90-18, 280Kpa
Disk Drum
16L 26 160mL 15 0 15 forward tilt with vertical plane 67X55.7mm 9.21 196.4mL 10.0kw/7000r/min 13N.m/5500r/min
4-stroke, air-cooled, central cam push rod, single cylinder
1.4L
Front sus pensi on hydraul ic oil capaci ty Type Cylinder arrangement Bore stroke Compression ratio Cylinder capacity Engine Rated power Max. Torque Air cleaner
X
Polyurethane foam filtered Intake valve

0.06mm 0.08mm
Valve gap (in cool state)

Idle speed
Exhaust valve
2
1500100r/min
Oil bath, multi-plate 5-gear, constant-mesh 3.333 2.909 1.867 1.390 1.150 0.955 2.8 Left food operated back-and-forth N
in order of I-N-II-III-IV-V
Transmission gear ratio Transmission

Final reduction gear ratio Gearshift Starter Ignition Generator Battery capacity Fuse Spark plug Spark plug gap Starting motor Starting relay
Clutch Gearbox Initial reduction gear ratio
Electric and kick CDI CDI Magneto AC generator 12V7A.h 10A D8RTC 0.6~0.7mm Excited Mechanical
Electric system

Standard Torque Values Engine Item Bolt, cylinder head Lock bolt, cylinder head Set bolt, magneto rotor Lock nut, oil cleaner Nut, oil filter cover Bolt, gearshift drum plate Bolt connecting gearshift drum and pusher Bolt for reamed hole N.m Q'ty mm Torque Value Thread Diameter (mm) 10~14 6 3 4 1 1 1 1 1 3 8 8 16 36 6 6 8 23~30 45~53 40~50 10~20 8~12 8~12 23~28
Body
Item Bolt, front axle Bolt, rear axle Nut, rear fork shaft Nut, engine suspension Bolt, handlebar fastening Nut, steering tube connecting Bolt, front suspension hydro-cylinder packing Nut, driving sprocket wheel
Q'ty
1 1 1 7 2 2 1 2 2
mm Thread Diameter 12 14 12 8 10 6 22 22 6
N.m Torque Value 35~45 50~60 40~55 25~35 35~45 9~11 40~50
15~20
10~14
Besides those important parts which were listed above, the rest of the standard spare parts conform to the table chart below
Description and Specification 5mm 5mm bolts and nuts 6mm 6mm bolts and nuts 8mm 8mm bolts and nuts 10mm 10mm bolts and nuts 12mm 12mm bolts and nuts 5mm 5mm screw 6mm 6mm screw 6mm 6mm capped bolts and nuts 8mm 8mm capped bolts and nuts 10mm 10mm capped bolts and nuts
N.m
Torque Value (N.m)
4.5~6 8~12 18~25 30~40 50~60 3.5~5 7~11 10~14 20~30 30~40
Special-purpose Tools Description
Reference Section Number
11 8 11 6
6mm hollow wrench Clutch holder
6mm
Roller ball base fixture Valve guide tube diameter enlarger
General-purpose Tool
Tool description Float level gauge Spoke wrench Pricker wrench 10X10 Valve adjusting wrench 10 10 Valve adjuster 20X24 Locknut wrench 20 24 30X32 Locknut wrench 30 32 bar Extension Rotor puller 5-5 Valve guide tube remover 5-5 B Valve guide tube driver (B) 32X35 Bearing driver 32 35
4 3 11 3 3 8 8 8 8 6 6 12 11
Description
11 12 11 11 11 6 12
37X40 15 Bearing driver guide tube 15 Bearing driver grip bar sleeve Fork sealing ring driver body B Fork sealing ring driver tool (B) Valve spring compressor
Bearing driver sleeve 37 40 Shock absorber compressor
6 6 6 6 6 6
Description
Valve holder trimmer, exhaust Valve holder trimmer, exhaust plane milling cutter, exhaust valve / Internal trimmer, intake/exhaust valve
Valve holder trimmer, intake Trimmer fastening base
Electric Diagram
Maintenance Schedule

Frequency
km Odometer Reading
1000km 4000km 8000km 12000km Targeted Parts Interval Fuel supply system * C C C C * Fuel filter * Throttle control * Carburetor choke 1 C C C Air filter (Note) Spark plug * Valve gap 2000km R R Engine oil R per 2,000 km of travel Each year R C R each year Oil filter * Carburetor idle speed L L L L Drive chain Each month Battery Brake lining wear Brake system * Brake lamp switch * Headlamp beam function Clutch Side stand * Suspensions * Nuts, bolts and fasteners / ** Wheel spoke ** Handlebar bearing The vehicle should be maintained at the specified intervals. The mean of signs are showed as follow C R A L C: clean; R: replace; A: adjust; L: lubricate; I: inspect, clean, adjust. Lubricate or replace. * *: it should be maintained by RATO service personnel in principle. Subject to the service manual if owners do it by themselves. ** **: it should be maintained by RATO service personnel for safety. Note: Cleaning should be intensified if the vehicle is used in a dusty environment.
8

Installation of Control Cables and Power Cables

Installation of the control cables and power cables

The following instructions should be noticed when installing the control cables and power cables:
1 Control cable or power cables may loose and get out, because of this ,it may contribute to danger. Therefore, check the cables whether they are tightened for safety after they are installed.
When welded clamps are used, do not try to cram the power cable or control cable into the welded part of end of the clamp.
Use different binders to fasten the cable to the body according to the location and in such a way that the insulating part of the binder touches the power cable.
Plastic combination plugs can be connected with each other only if their lock tabs are well aligned. To disconnect them, always disengage the lock tabs first. Before connecting the combination plugs, check the joints to see whether they are properly fitted and bent. Insert the plug into the socket as much as possible and engage the lock tabs. 5

Connect the power cables with a proper degree of tightness, it means) neither too tight nor too loose.
After the control or power cables are installed and fastened, turn the related moving parts of the vehicle, especially the handlebar, to see if they interfere with each other or is able to make easy turns.
The control or power cables should be far from the exhaust muffler or other hot surfaces.
10
2 Lubrication System
Replacement of Oil
Troubleshooting

Cleaning of Oil Cleaner Cleaning or Oil Filter
Engine Lubrication System
Lubrication Position Notes to Maintenance
Checking of Oil Level
This section tells you how to clean, check and replace parts of the engine lubrication system as well as describes the lubrication points. The lubrication system can be checked and cleaned without removing the engine but the engine oil should be drained off first. Troubleshooting Oil running out too quickly Dirty engine oil 1 1 Engine leaking; Oil is not replaced as scheduled; 2 2 Oil filler threads are damaged. Piston ring abrasion; 3 Insufficient lubrication Intake/Exhaust valve guide abrasion; 1 4 Oil level are too low; Oil retainer abrasion or damaged. 2 Oil pump are damaged.
Oil gallery and throttle opening or filter are clogged; 3
Lubrication of Engine 40 The engine lubrication system is as shown in the sketch below. 30 20 Engine Oil 2 0 W40 15W/40QE 20W 15W/40 This vehicle has been filled with the 15W (40GE) 15W30 graded gasoline engine oil before delivery, No 15W ordinary or other types of oil should be used. 1 0W30 10W20 10W The viscosity of oil should correspond to 5W30 the geographic and climatic conditions under 5 W 20 which the vehicle is used. the chart shown on 5W the right are the recommended types of oil. -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40 50 Oil Capacities 1.1L After disassembling and reassembling: 1.1 liter 1.0L refilling after draining off: 1.0 liter 5L/min1000r/min Oil pump flow rate: 5 liters per min (1,000 rpm)
12
Checking of Oil Level
Place the vehicle on a flat surface and check the oil level with a dipstick. If the oil level is below the lower line mark, fill the engine with the commended type of oil until the upper line mark is reached. The oil level can be seen through the watch hole in the right side cover of the engine.
Replacement of Oil
Replace oil while the engine is still warm as this facilitates quick, thorough draining off of old oil from inside the crankcase. To replace the oil, unscrew the filter cover and remove the spring and filter.
Cleaning of Oil Filter Clean the oil filter with a cleaning detergent and put it and the spring back in place. Put on the filter cover and tighten it to the specified torque. 1.0L Pour 1.0 liter of fresh oil through the filler opening into the crankcase. 4~5 Screw in the screw plug with dipstick and then start the engine. Leave the engine running idle for 4~5 minutes and shut it off. Then, while keeping the vehicle in a level position, check the oil level to make sure it is above the lower line mark and then check the crankcase for leakage.
13
Cleaning of Oil Filter
Note: Clean the oil filter before pouring oil through it into the crankcase.
Remove the filter cover; Remove the filter and drain off oil from the crankcase; Remove the exhaust muffler and footrest;
Remove the clutch control cable and speedometer flexible shaft;
Remove the starting lever and open the right crankcase cover.

Non-shedding cloth
Remove dirty from spindle
10 20 mm 8 l Remove the oil filter cover and clean the oil filter to restore it to good condition. Then put on the oil filter cover and right crankcase cover. l Connect the clutch control cable and put the footrest and starting lever back in place. l Put the oil filter and its cover back in place, put on the exhaust muffler and finally pour the recommended type of oil into the crankcase and start the engine. l Shut off the engine, check the oil level and the crankcase for leakage. l Refer to Section 8 for disassembling, checking and reassembling the oil pump.
14
Lubrication of Control Cables and Flexible Shaft The clutch cable, throttle cable, front brake cable and odometer shaft should be lubricated on a periodical basis. Proceed as follows: Remove these cables and flexible shaft from the joints and coat the pivot points of these cables with calcium-base grease (customarily called yellow grease). Lubricating Position Unless otherwise specified in this manual, general-purpose lubricating oils should be used.Unless otherwise shown in thepicture below, all the sliding surfaces should be coated with lubricating oil or grease. Brake disk
Rear brake
Front fork
Rear brake lever Brake pedal pivot point
Engine
Rolling ball bearing
15
Checks and Adjustments

l Notes to Maintenance l Technical requirements l Engine l Air cleaner l Fuel supply pipeline l Fuel filter l Spark plug l Valve gap l Ignition timing l Throttle control l Carburetor idle speed Timing chain tension l l Cylinder pressure l Body l Drive chain l Battery l Brake system l Brake lap switch l Headlamp beam operation l Clutch free play l Side stand l Front suspension system l Head pipe bearing l Wheels and spokes Bolt, nuts and fasteners l
R A T O RT200-5
This section tells you how to make checks and adjustments of the RT200-5 motorcycle. It also provides the technical requirementsfor such checks and adjustments. Refer to Section 2 for checking the lubrication system.
Technical Requirements

Engine

Recommended spark plug model Spark plug gap Valve gap

Ignition timing Throttle grip free play Idle speed Cylinder pressure
D8RTC 0.6~0.7mm 0.08mm0.02 0.08mm0.02 15 11500100r/min 2~6mm 1500150r/min 1274kpa147kpa
16
Body
Clutch lever free distance Front brake lever free distance Rear brake pedal free distance Tire pressure Front Rear Front Rear 10~20mm 10~20mm 20~30mm 225kpa 280kpa 2.75-18-4PR 100/90-18-6PR
Air filter screw
Air cleaner
Remove the right side cover. Unscrew the fastening screw from the air cleaner cover. Remove the air cleaner cover.
Remove the air filter and clean it with non-ignitable or high ignition point detergent and dry it. Note: Do not clean it with gasoline.
Soak the air filter into engine oil and then remove it and squeeze off engine oil. Put the air cleaner in the reverse order in which it is removed.
Cleaning
Squeezing Soaking
Squeezing
17

Fuel Supply Pipeline

Fuel filter
Fuel pipe
Check the fuel pipe to see if it is aged, damaged or broken and replace it when necessary.
Fuel Filter
Check the fuel filter to see if it has changed color or clogged. Replace it if it has turned yellow or is clogged. The fuel cock should be off before replacing the fuel filter.
Spark Plug

Gap: 0.6~0.7mm
Remove the spark plug cap. Unscrew the spark plug with a socket wrench and check visually the insulator for damage and the electrode for corrosion. If yes, replace the spark plug.
0.6~0.7mm
Checking
Gap
Deposit
Electrode corrosion
Check the gasket for tightness
Check the gap between the electrodes with a feeler gaugeto make sure it is within 0.6-0.7mm. Remove carbon deposits or dirt with a spark plug cleaner or piece of steel wire and then carefully adjust the gap. Check the spark plug packing ring to see if it is in good condition
Cleaning: Use the spark plug cleaner or steel wire for cleaning.
After assembled, tighten it by hand and then turn further it by 1/2~3/4 turns.
18
To install the spark plug, turn the spark plug by hand first, tighten it with the socket wrench and then put on the spark plug cap.
Choke knob
Choke knob

Check the choke knob to see if it is able to turn freely and position accurately. If the turning is not smooth, grind the shaft and the bush, clean and oil them.
Valve Gap
3 5
Note: The valve gap should be adjusted while the engine is cool (with a temperature of below 35).
T l Remove the seat and fuel tank. l Remove the lower and upper watch hole covers. Turn the magneto flywheel counterclockwise until the T mark is aligned with the indicating mark on the left front cover. Note that the piston must be in the TDC position of the compression stroke.
19
Remove the cylinder head cover. Check the gap between the adjusting screw
and valve rod with a feeler gauge.

0.06mm
Intake valve gap: 0.06mm 0.08mm Exhaust valve gap: 0.08mm

To adjust the valve gap, loosen the lock nut and then turn the adjusting screw until a drag is felt on the feeler gauge. Then turn the screw with the valve adjuster and tighten the lock nut.
Check the valve gap again.
Finally put the cylinder head cover, upper, lower watch hole covers, fuel tank and seat back in place.
Ignition Timing CDI CDI Note: Ignition timing is not adjustable because the CDI (capacitor discharging ignition) is not adjustable. If the ignition time is not correct, check the CDI, pulse trigger and magneto and replace the malfunctioning electrical parts.

Alignment mark
Remove the upper watch hole cover;
Connect the timing lamp; Start the engine and leave it running at the idle speed. F 1500100r/min If the F mark on the magneto rotor is aligned with the mark on the front left cover, it means the timing is correct and the idle speed is 1,500100 rpm.
20
2140200r/min 3740200r/min
l Then increase the engine speed and check the following: l Advance start at 2,140200 rpm l Advance stop at 3,740200 rpm (the indicating mark should be in front of the advance mark)
Throttle Control
Check the throttle control cable for deformation, twist or damage and then measure the free distance of the throttle flange. 2~6mm
Loosen
Tighten
Free distance: 2~6mm
Check the throttle grip to see if it can be turned freely from fully open to fully close.
If the throttle grip cannot be turned freely in this way, adjust or replace it by removing the rubber jacket, loosening the lock nut and turning the adjusting thimble until the desired free distance is obtained.
Increase
Carburetor Idle Speed

Decrease
Note: The carburetor idle speed should be checked only if other items of the engine have been adjusted to the specified value. 1500150r/min
l Adjust the carburetor idle speed while the engine is warm. l Place the vehicle on the main stand and turn the plunger stop screw. l Idle speed: 1,500150 rpm
21
Testing Cylinder Pressure 4~6

Warm up the engine and then shut it off. Remove the spark plug. Screw in a pressure gauge, turn the choke and throttle fully open and push the starting lever for 4-6 times.
4~6
Note: Check to make sure the pressure gauge is well tightened. Start the engine repeatedly until the pressure gauge reading remains unchanged. The maximum value could be reached after kicking the start lever 4-6 times
1274147kpa Cylinder pressure: 1274147Kpa
Drive Chain Place the vehicle on the main stand and set the gearbox to the neutral gear. Check the slackness of the drive chain by pushing it with the finger and checking the lower middle part of the chain.
10~20mm
Slackness: 10-20mm
Chain slackness adjustment Loosen the rear axle nut and the lock nut on both sides. Turn the screw on the adjuster.
Note: The line marks on the adjusters on both sides must be aligned to each other.
22
50~80N.m
Tighten the rear axle nut to a torque of 50-80 N.m and then recheck the chain slackness and the rear wheel to see if it turns freely.
Cleaning and Checking the Drive Chain Remove the chain clip and movable chain plate first and then the drive chain. Clean it with detergent and dry it. Check the chain for damage and replace it if it is damaged. Put the chain back into place and coat with chain lubricant or engine oil.
Note: When fit the chain clip, make sure its opening is faced against the direction in which the chain turns.
Battery

Check the battery solution level to see if it is between the upper and lower limits. Add distilled water if the level is close to the lower limit and clean the battery terminals and outside surface. Then check the specific weight of the battery solution.
Specific weight
Upper limit Lower limit

Note: Only distilled water can be used to dilute the battery solution. Using tap water may shorten the battery life.
23

Front brake System
1) 2
(1) The front brake is disc brake, when the motorcycle is in production,the disc brake is already good debugging, the normal user can not adjust on their own. (2) If adjustment is needed, please go to professional repair station to conduct inspections and adjustments. Caution: Disc structure more complex, selfadjustment of the disc will affect traffic safety, please carefully.
Rear brake pedal

20~30mm
The rear brake pedal should have a distance of 20-30mm.

Turn the adjusting nut to adjust the distance if required.
Adjusting nut
24
Arrow mark
Brake Lining Wear Indication Turn the brake lever or push the brake pedal into position and see if the mark on the brake cover is aligned with the arrow on the indicating plate. If yes, replace the brake lining.

Adjusting nut on brake lamp switch
Brake Lamp Switch 20mm

After the free distance of the brake pedal is adjusted, adjust the brake lamp switch so that when the brake pedal moves down by 20mm, the brake lamp should be turned on.
To adjust the brake lamp switch, simply turn the adjusting nut on the brake lamp switch.
Note: Do not turn the switch body.
Free distance of Clutch Lever

10~20mm The clutch lever should have a free distance of 10-20mm.
10~20mm
25

To adjust the clutch, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting nut. The adjuster can be used to make rough adjustments.
The adjuster on the handlebar can be used to make fine adjustments. After adjustment, recheck the free play of the clutch.
Tighten
Loosen
Lock nut
Side Stand
Check the side stand to see if it is damaged or has lost elasticity and if it is able to turn freely.
20~30N.m
Pull the lower end of the side stand with a force balance and see if the force is within 20-30 N.m.
Suspension System
Checking the front fork

Apply the front brake and push the front fork several times to see if the front suspension works normally.
If an unusual noise or creaky sound is heard, check all the fastener and tighten them to the specified torque values.
26
Rear Suspension
l Push the rear wheel hard to one side and check the rear fork for wear or damage. Replace it if damaged. l Check the whole suspension system for tightness and abrasion or deformation. l Finally check the wheels for concentricity, twist or deformation.
Steering Bearing
Note: Check the control cable and power cable to see if they interfere with the turning of the handlebar. Lift the front wheel off the ground and check the handlebar to see if it is able to turn freely. If it is unable to turn evenly or gets stuck, adjust the adjusting nut for the front fork tube.
Wheels
Note: Tire pressure can be checked only in cool condition
Tire Pressure 225kpa 280kpa

Check the tires for cuts, nails or other sharp objects. The recommended tire pressures for solo ride are: 225kpa for front tire and 280kpa for rear tire.
Bolts, Nuts and Fasteners

All the bolts, nuts and fasteners should be tightened according to the maintenance schedule. Check all the split pins, safety clamps, locks, etc.
27
4
GASOLINE SYSTEM Notes to Maintenance Troubleshooting Fuel Tank
Float (Float Needle) Nozzle Adjustment of Float Height Installation of Throttle
//
Air Cleaner
Removal of Carburetor Removal of Throttle
Installation of Carburetor Adjustment of Locating Screw
General Requirements 1 2 O O 3 1.Special care should be used when handling gasoline. Keep the workplace wentilated and away from sparks or flames. 2.When removing parts from the fuel supply system, note the locations of O-rings and always use new ones to replace old ones once they are removed. 3.There is a drain screw at the bottom of the float chamber which can be loosened to drain off fuel from the float chamber.
Troubleshooting

Engine able to get ignited but unable to get started
Gas mixture too thick 1.Choke closed; 2 2.Fuel level in carburetor too high; 3 3.Carburetor air nozzle clogged; 4 4.Float stuck or float needle failed; 5 5.Air cleaner dirty.
1
1 2 3 4
No fuel in fuel tank;
No fuel supplied into carburetor; Too much fuel in cylinder; Air cleaner clogged.
Engine idle speed instable
Gas mixture too thin 1 1.Carburetor nozzle clogged; 2 2.Vent in fuel tank cap blocked; 3 3.Fuel filter clogged; 4 4.Fuel unable to flow freely in fuel pipe; 5 5.Float needle failed; 6 6.Fuel level in carburetor too low.
28
1.Idle speed not properly adjusted; 2 2.Gas mixture too thick; 3 3.Gas mixture too thin; 4 4.Cylinder pressure too low; 5 5.Air cleaner clogged; 6 6.Fuel dirty; 7 7.Fuel aged;
Removal of Fuel Tank

Fuel tank bolt
l Turn off the fuel switch, disconnect the fuel passage . l Remove the two sid e covers, unscrew the seat bolts and remove the seat. l Remove the fuel level sensor connector and unscrew the fuel tank bolt. l Pull the fuel tank backward to remove it.

Note: Keep the fuel from flame or sparks. Spilled fuel should be cleaned immediately.
Fuel level sensor
Air filter screw
Air Cleaner
,
Remove the right side cover and seat, remove the fuel tank and rubber gasket, disconnect the carburetor pipe, and remove the air filter.
Air filter
29

Removal of Carburetor

l Turn off the fuel switch, disconnect the fuel pipe and remove the two side covers. l Loosen the carburetor drain screw to drain off fuel from the carburetor. l Unscrew the nut connecting the carburetor and air pipe. l Loosen the screw from the connecting strip of the air cleaner. l Remove the carburetor cover and pull out the throttle plunger and remove the carburetor.

Note: Keep the fuel from flame or sparks. Spilled fuel should be cleaned immediately.
Throttle plunger
Throttle Plunger

Plunger spring
l Disconnect the throttle control cable joint from the slot in the plunger and be sure to compress the throttle spring when doing the disconnection. l Remove the fuel needle fastening ring and then remove the needle and retainer ring from inside the throttle plunger. l Check the surfaces of the throttle plunger and fuel needle to see if they are clean, smooth and free of scratches or wear.
Plunger
Fuel needle Clip
30

Removal of Float, Float Needle and Nozzle

Float

Float pin
l Unscrew the float chamber cover screw and then remove the float chamber cover. l Pull out the float pin and remove the float and float needle. l Check the contact surface of the float needle for abrasion and damage and replace the float needle when necessary. l Remove the main orifice, foam tube nozzle, idle speed orifice and plunger stop screw. l Remove the locating screw.
Plunger fine-adjustin g screw
Float needle
Idle speed fine-adjusting screw
Note: Before removing the screw, be sure to identify the installing position of the screw and remember the number of turns used to remove the screw. Otherwise the reinstallation of the screw will be unnecessarily troublesome.
7/4
Idle speed fine-adjusting screw
Foam tube
l Clean all the orifice recesses and surface of the carburetor with detergent. After cleaning, blow the orifice recesses with compressed air to make them dry. l Then reassemble the idle speed orifice, nozzle, main orifice and plunger stop screw, put in the locating screw and tighten it to the position before removal. l Turn the locating screw all the way into position and then turn it back by 7/4 turn to reach its open position.
31

Plunger fine-adjusting screw
Reinstall the float and float needle and put in the float pin.
Adjustment of Float Height 151mm Measure the float height with a height gauge. Float height: 151mm
Retainer ring
To change the float height, slowly turn the float arm until its sharp end is just in touch with the float needle. It is also possible to change the float height through the height gauge.
Reassembly of Throttle Plunger

Third ring groove
Put the retainer ring into the ring groove in the fuel needle.
Retainer ring
Standard position: the 3 rd ring groove
32
Put the fuel needle into the plunger and put on the fastening ring. Then insert the plunger spring into the end of the throttle control cable and connect the cable with the throttle plunger.
Installation of Carburetor Put the throttle plunger into the carburetor body.

Note: The groove in the plunger should be aligned to the stop screw on the carburetor body.
2~6mm
l Tighten the end cover on top of the carburetor. l After the carburetor is installed, adjust the throttle grip free play using the adjuster on the throttle control cable. l Throttle grip free distance: 2-6mm
Adjustment of Locating Screw 7/4

Turn the locating screw clockwise until it touches the end of the screw hole and then turn it counterclockwise until it reaches the standard position. Standard position of locating screw: 7/4 turns
Increase
Note: The screw hole may be damaged if the locating screw is turned too tight into it.
1500150r/min 1500100r/min Start the engine to warm it up to the working temperature and turn the throttle stop screw until the idle speed reaches 1,5000150 rpm. Turn the throttle grip repeatedly to check if the engine is able to accelerate or decelerate. Turn the locating screw again until the highest speed is reached. Then turn the plunger stop screw to bring the idle speed back to 1,500150 rpm.
33
Decrease
5
Disassembling and Reassembling of Engine
Notes to Maintenance Disassembling Reassembling
General Requirement The vehicle should be propped up with the main stand when performing disassembling or reassembling of the engine. If the engine is disassembled or reassembled on an elevating platform, the front wheel should be fastened. To service the following parts, the engine must be removed from the frame. Kick starter Crankshaft Gearshift mechanism
Specifications
30kg 1.0L
Engine weight: 30 kg
Oil capacity: 1.0 liter when refilled after reassembling
Torque requirement 2733N.m

Suspension bolts: 27-33 N.m 2030 N.m Oil drain bolt: 20-30 N.m
812 N.m Gearshift pedal bolt: 8-12 N.m 812 N.m Starting lever bolt: 8-12 N.m
Disassembling of Engine
l Drain off oil from the engine. l Close the fuel cock and disconnect the fuel supply passage. l Remove the two side covers. l Remove the seat. l Remove the fuel tank.
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l Remove the gearshift pedal and main rear cover. l Unwire the magneto and disconnect the AC generator. l Unscrew the exhaust muffler bolt and lower set bolt. l Remove the exhaust muffler. l Unscrew the four bolts from under the engine and remove the footrest and side stand. l Remove the drive chain clip and fastener ring with pliers. l Remove the drive chain. l Loosen the clutch control cable lock nut and disconnect the clutch cable and U-clamp. l Remove the clutch control cable. l Unscrew the fastener bolt and disconnect the carburetor from the cylinder head. l Remove the high-tension cable.
Fastener ring

Chain clip
35
Note: Before disassembling the engine, be sure to place a jack or pad.

Unscrew the bolts and nuts from the front suspension. Remove the front suspension support.
Unscrew the fastener bolts and nuts from the engine and remove the suspension plate.
Unscrew the rear fastener bolt from the engine. Remove the engine.
Note: While disassembling the engine, be sure to keep it securely fastened and free of shaking.
Reassembling of Engine
Follow the reverse order of disassembling to reassemble the engine.

Note: l Check the wiring for correctness. l Adjust the free distance of the throttle control cable. l Adjust the free distance of the clutch control cable. l Adjust the slackness of the driver chain. l Fill the crankcase with the recommended type of oil up to an appropriate level.
36
M8 / 27~33N.m
Torque Requirement
Suspension bolt/nut M8: 27-33 N.m M10 /30~40N.m Suspension bolt/nut M10: 30-40 N.m
Note: Put all the bolts into the frame and then tighten them one by one.
Put on the suspension plate, support and suspension bolt.
37
6
Cylinder Head and Valves
Troubleshooting Removal of Cylinder Head Cover Removal of Upper Rocker Arm Assembly
Checking of Upper Rocker Arm Assembly
Removal of Cylinder Head Disassembling of Cylinder Head Checking of Valves and Valve Guides
Checking of Tappet Checking of Cylinder Head Assembling of Cylinder Head Installation of Cylinder Head
Notes to Maintenance 0
As the oil enters the cylinder head through the control orifice in the engine casing, this orifice should always remain unblocked. Before installing the cylinder head, the O-ring and locating pin should be installed first.

Before installing, coat the turning part of the upper rocker arm assembly and spherical pit with molybdum disulfate for basic lubrication.
Part Specifications
Item
Axial gap
mm Standard Value 0.05~0.12
mm
Repair Limit
0.15
Upper rocker arm assembly

Axial gap between intake/exhaust rocker arm and shaft
0.005~0.041 45.5 39.4 0.05~0.08
0.08 41.00 35.50 5.42 5.4 5.53 5.53 0.07 0.07 2.0 0.1 1.5

Valve spring Outer spring
0.05
Valve gap
Inner spring

Outside diameter of valve rod Intake Exhaust
5.450~5.456 5.430~5.445 5.475~5.485 5.475~5.485 0.01~0.035 0.03~0.055 1.7 1.1~1.3

38

Inner diameter of valve rod
Intake
Exhaust
Valve

Gap between valve rod and sleeve
Intake Exhaust

Valve seat width

Cylinder head Twist Valve seat width
1
Cylinder pressure low Valve
Troubleshooting
Exhaust containing blue smoke
1
1.Valve guide worn 2.Oil retainer leaking or damaged 3.Cylinder head gasket leaking 4.Piston ring gap too wide

Valve not tight Valve gap incorrect
2 3 4
Gas make-up timing incorrect Valve spring broken
2
Cylinder head

Too much noise
1
1.Valve not properly adjusted
Cylinder head fissured or damaged
Cylinder head gasket leaking or damaged
Spark plug and cylinder not closely connected
Cylinder block and piston
5.Tappet ball come off
3 4 4.Gas make-up timing not correct 5 6
2.Valve stuck or valve spring broken
3.Upper rocker arm shaft gap too wide

Piston ring gap too wide or broken Piston fissured or damaged
6.Valve spring too weak
Cylinder bore too large or pitted

Irregular-form gasket
Removal of Cylinder Head Cover

Unscrew the three screws from the cylinder head, remove the cylinder head cover and the irregular form gasket.
Tappet
Removal of Upper Rocker Arm Assembly

Remove the three fastener bolts from the upper rocker arm assembly and then remove the latter. Remove the tappet.
Upper rocker arm assembly
Checking of Upper Rocker Arm Assembly
0.05~0.12mm 0.15mm
l Check the rocker arm for wear, damage or orifice blockage. l Check the part for deformation and width of gap between the rocker and shaft. l Check the axial clearance of the upper rocker arm assembly. Theoretical value: 0.05~0.12mm Limit value: 0.15mm
39
Checking of Tappet
The tappet should be straight and free from bending. 141.15~141.45mm Theoretical value: 141.15~141.45mm 141.00mm Limit value: 141.00mm
Removal of Cylinder Head Remove the intake pipe. Unscrew the four irregular-form nuts. 8X79mm Unscrew the side bolt 879mm. Finally remove the cylinder head.
8X79mm
Sidle bolt 879mm
Irregular-form nut
Disassembling of Cylinder Head
Cylinder head

Valve fixture
Remove the valve spring with the valve fixture and remove the valve clamp. Then loosen the valve fixture and remove the valve spring seat, spring and valve.
Note: To prevent the valve spring from getting permanently deformed, do not compress it more than the valve clamp which can be just removed. All of the removed parts should be marked to ensure they are returned to their original positions.

Valve spring and valve
Check the valves for bending, corrosion or unusual wear of valve rod. Check the valve movement inside the guide and measure the outside diameter. 5.42mm Intake: 5.42mm
Repair limit value 5.40mm Exhaust: 5.40mm
Insert the valve into the guide and watch its movement inside.
40

Measure the inside diameter of each valve guide with an outside micrometer or special gauge and then figure out the gap between the valve rod and valve guide.
Outside micrometer
0.12mm
Repair limit value
0.14mm
Intake: 0.12mm
Exhaust: 0.14mm
Note:
Before measuring the inside diameter of the valve guide, be sure to remove carbon deposits from inside the valve guide.

If the valve guide is replaced, the surface of the valve holder should be lapped. Remove all the carbon deposits from inside the combustion chamber. Remove the residue from the cylinder head surface with a scraper.

Note: Take care not to damage the cylinder head surface. Immersing the cylinder head and gasket into detergent will cause damage to the gasket.
Feeler gauge
Checking of Cylinder Head
0.1mm
Check the spark plug hole and valve seat for cracks. Check the cylinder head for deformation and check its flatness with a straightedge and feeler gauge. Repair limit value: 0.1mm

Checking of Valve Spring

Measure the free length of the inner and outer valve springs.

Repair limit value (for intake and exhaust valves)
41.0mm
35.50mm
Outer spring: 41.0mm
Inner spring: 35.50mm
41
Replacement of Valve Guide
Fasten the cylinder head and remove the valve guide from the valve hole with the valve guide fixture.

Note:Take care not to damage the cylinder head when removing the valve guide.
0
Push the new valve guide and O-ring into the cylinder head and enlarge the bore of the valve guide.

Note:Coat the reamer with cutting oil before using it and turn the reamer when putting it in or pulling it out.
Clean

Finally clean the cylinder head with a detergent solution and remove all the metal chips from it with compressed air.
Checking and Lapping of Valve Holder

Remove carbon deposits from the intake and exhaust valves, coat the valve seat with abrasive paste and then lap the valve seat with the lapping tool.

Remove the valve and check it for the width of the contact surface.
1.2~1.6mm 2.0mm
Standard value: 1.2~1.6mm
Repair limit value: 2.0mm Note:

Replace the valve if its contact surface is so rough, corroded or worn that normal contact with valve seat is impossible.
42

Measurement of Valve Holder Contact Width 2.0mm Repair limit value: 2.0mm

Trim the valve holder if it is too wide, too narrow or have dents in it to achieve a tight contact.
Valve HolderCutter
Cutters of three different angles are provided to serve different purposes.
Flat surface finish cutter
Valve seat finish cutter
Internal surface finish cutter
32 0
Use the 32 cutter to machine the top circumference of the valve holder
Width of old valve seat
60 0
Use the 60 cutter to machine the bottom circumference of the valve holder.
43
45 0 1.2mm Use the 45 cutter to finish the working face of the valve holder to the correct width. Standard value of working face: 1.2mm
Coat the valve seat with stamp ink, put in the valve and turn it and then remove it to see if the contact is correct.

Note:A good contact of the valve with the seat is of vital importance for the tightness of the engine.
32 0
If the contact face of the valve is too high, machine it with the 32 cutter to lower it.
60 0 If the contact face of the valve is too low, machine it with the 50 cutter to heighten it.
45 0
Finally use the 45 to finish the contact face of the valve seat to the required width.

After the valve seat is machined, coat it with a layer of lapping compound, put in the valve and lap it with the rubber lapper. After lapping, clean the cylinder head, valve, valve seat and valve guide of lapping compound.
44

Assembling of Cylinder Head

Note: Before assembling the valve, put the oil retainer on the valve guide first.
Coat the intake and exhaust valve rods with oil, put them into the valve guides, and then put in the valve springs and spring seats. Note: When assembling the valve spring, make sure the end with a wider pitch is directed to the top of the cylinder head.
Compress the valve spring with the valve fixture and then put the valve clamp into the valve spring seat.
Note: To prevent the valve spring from permanent deformation, do not compress the spring more than just enough to put in the valve clamp. Tap on the end of the valve rod with a plastic hammer to get the valve clamp into the ring groove.

Assembling of Valve Head
0
Remove the gasket, clean the cylinder surface, put in the new gasket and then put in the O-ring and locating pin.

Note: Prevent dust and dirt from getting into the cylinder.
45
Connect the air intake pipe. Put on the cylinder head. 23~30N.m
Screw the four regular-form nuts onto the cylinder head and install the tappet support. Torque requirement: 23-30 N.m 8mm Screw in the 8mm bolt. 18~23N.m Torque requirement: 18-23 N.m
23~28N.m 2 3
Put on the upper rocker arm assembly and tighten the three fastening bolts. Torque requirement: 23-28 N.m Tighten the irregular-form nuts one by one for two or three times following a diagonal order. Adjust the valve gap.
Installation of Cylinder Head Cover Inlay the irregular-form packing ring into the groove in the cylinder head cover, making sure it remains neat and flat in the groove. Put on the cylinder head cover and tighten the three bolts.
46
7 Cylinder Block and Piston

Notes to Maintenance Troubleshooting Removal of Cylinder Block
Disassembling of Cylinder Block
Checking of Middle Rocker Arm
Checking of Middle Rocker Arm Shaft Checking of Corrugated Washer Checking of Piston Installation of Piston Installation of Piston
General Requirement

The cylinder block is a vital part of the engine. It works under severe conditions and has a decisive influence on the engine performance. Therefore the cylinder block should be carefully maintained. Before installing the cylinder, be sure to put on a new gasket and the locating pin.
Care should be taken not to allow dust and dirt to get into the crankcase.
Part Specifications
Item
mm Standard Value
mm
Repair Limit

Bore
56.50~56.51

56.60 0.1 0.1 0.05 56.40 15.04 0.02 0.10 1.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 14.96 15.06 0.10 11.95 12.05

Cylinder block
Taper

Off-roundness Top distortion
Outside diameter of piston Inside diameter of piston pin hole Gap between piston pins
56.45~56.48 15.002~15.008 0.002~0.014 0.150~0.350 0.010~0.040 0.030~0.050 0.020~0.050 0.02~0.06 14.994~15.000 15.010~15.028 0.01~0.034 11.97~11.99 12.00~12.02

Top ring/1 st ring

Piston, piston ring and piston pin

Piston ring end gap
/
Oil ring Top ring

Gap between piston ring and groove
nd
2 ring

Gap between cylinder block and piston
Upper diameter of piston pin

Small end of conrod
Inside diameter Gap with piston pin Outside diameter of small end Inside diameter
Middle rocker arm shaft

Middle rocker arm

1.Cylinder or piston ring worn Troubleshooting
Compression force low or instable 1

2 3 4
3.Piston ring not installed correctly 2.Cylinder, piston or piston ring worn
Overheating
1.Piston full of carbon deposits
3 4
47
2.Explosive shock or unusual noise
3.Piston or cylinder worn
4.Piston or cylinder wall scratched or damaged
4.Piston covered with too much carbon deposits
5.Middle rocker arm unusually worn
6 6X25
Unscrew the two 625 screws.
Removal of Cylinder Block
Remove the cylinder head (See Section 6).
0
Remove the cylinder block.
Remove the locating pin, O-ring and cylinder gasket.

Note: Take care not to allow anything to get into the crankcase when removing the cylinder block.

Remove the paper gasket residue from the surface of the cylinder block with a scraper.

Note:It will be easier to remove the paper gasket if it is immersed in gasoline. When doing this job, take care not to damage the contact surface of the cylinder block.
Disassembling of Cylinder Block

Place the cylinder block up side down and bring out the middle rocker arm shaft with a minus-tipped screwdriver.

Note: Take care not to damage the surface of the cylinder block

Screwdriver

Remove the middle rocker arm, shaft and corrugated washer.
48

Checking of Cylinder Block
56.60mm 0.1mm 0.1mm

Taper: 0.1mm Off-roundness: 0.1mm
Measure the bore of the cylinder at three locations, i.e. the top, middle and bottom parts of the piston stroke, in two directions vertical to each other.
Check the cylinder block for abrasion or damage.
Repair limit value: 56.60mm
Calculate the taper and off-roundness.
Piston pin retainin g ring
Pliers

Remove the piston pin retaining ring.
Removal of Piston

Note: Take care not to drop the retaining ring into the crankcase.

Push the piston ring out of the piston and then remove the piston
/
Checking of Piston/Piston Ring

Measure the gap between the piston ring and the piston ring groove

Repair limit value:
0.09mm st
1 ring: 0.09mm 2 ring: 0.09mm
0.09mm nd
Remove the piston ring.
Feeler gauge

Note: Be careful not to damage the piston ring when removing it.

Insert each ring into the cylinder and measure the end gap.

Repair limit value
/ 0.5mm
1 st/2 nd ring: 0.5mm

Check the piston for wear or crack and the piston ring groove for wear.

Measure the inside diameter of piston pin.
15.04mm
Measure the inside diameter of piston pin.
49
10mm
Measure the outside diameter at 10mm above the bottom end of the piston skirt.
56.40mm

Calculate the gap between the cylinder and piston.
0.1mm

Piston shirt

Measure the outside diameter of the piston pin Repair limit value: 14.96mm
14.96mm
Calculate the gap between the piston and piston.
0.02mm
Installation of Piston Ring

Clean the piston ring groove.

Put in the piston ring.

Measure the outside diameter of the piston pin

Note: Be careful not to damage the piston and piston ring when doing the installation. Make sure the mark is faced up when installing the top ring and second ring. Be sure that the marked side is faced up when installing the piston ring. The piston ring should be able to turn freely after installation. Do not confuse the mounting position of the top ring with that of the second ring.
Top ring 2 nd ring Oil ring
Piston ring mark
120
Separate the end gap of the piston ring by 120 and do not align the ring gaps with each other.
Top ring 2 nd ring Side race Spacer ring Side race 20mm or greater

The gap between the three rings of the oil ring should be match the spacer ring. When mounting the oil ring, be sure to put in the spacer ring before putting in the side ring.
20mm or greater
Gap
50

Installation of Piston Ring Put the piston, piston pin and new piston retaining ring in place.
IN
Note: When installing the piston ring, make sure the side marked with IN is lined up to the intake valve. The end gap of the piston pin at the retaining ring side should be staggered from the opening of the piston.

Put in the piston, piston pin and new retaining ring.
Note:
Always use replace the piston ring with a new one when reassembling the disassemble piston. Be careful not to allow the piston pin to drop into the crankcase.
Installation of Cylinder Block
0
Put on the new paper gasket, locating pin and O-ring. Coat the cylinder block and piston ring with a layer of oil. Put on the cylinder.
Note:
Take care not to damage the piston and piston ring. The two rocker arms should be separated instead of being kept close.
0
Put on the new paper gasket. Insert the locating pin and put on the O-ring. Put on the cylinder head.
51

Shaft
Removal of Middle Rocker Arm Unscrew the 8mm bolt from the cylinder head.
8mm
Remove the cylinder head and cylinder block.

Hold the middle rocker arm by hand and turn the shaft toward the arrow mark.

Open the rocker arm shaft with a screwdriver.
Checking of Middle Rocker Arm

Check the middle rocker arm for abrasion, damage and crack.
Middle rocker arm

Measure the inside diameter of the middle rocker arm.
12.00~12.02mm
Theoretical value: 12.00~12.02mm
12.05mm
52

Checking of Middle Rocker Arm Shaft

Measure the outside diameter of the middle rocker arm shaft.
11.97~11.99mm
Theoretical value: 11.95~11.99mm
11.95mm
Installation of Middle Rocker Arm Shaft

Put the middle rocker arm, shaft and corrugated washer back in place following the reverse order in which they are removed.

Turn the shaft until the bottom end of the bolt gets into the hole in the shaft.
53
8

Notes to Maintenance Troubleshooting
Clutch, Oil Pump and Gearshift Mechanism
/
Disassembling of Clutch Removal of Right Crankcase Cover Removal/Installation of Clutch
Removal/Installation of Gearshift Mechanism
Checking of Clutch
/
Installation of Oil Pump
Disassembling/Checking of Oil Pump
Installation of Right Crankcase Cover
After the right crankcase cover is removed, the clutch, oil pump and gearshift mechanism can be removed, installed and repaired without having to remove the engine. Before replacing the clutch, the clutch disc should be coated with engine oil before assembling it. Torque Requirement
8~12N.m
16mm 40~50N.m
Part Specifications 16mm lock nut (for oil cleaner): 40~50 N.m Starter (starting lever): 10~15 N.m
Right crankcase cover: 8~12 N.m
10~15N.m
Item Free play of clutch lever
mm
Standard Value
mm
Repair Limit
10~20 35.50 2.90~3.00 0.15 0.30~0.36 0.15~0.20
34.20 2.60 0.20 0.20 0.40 0.25

Clutch
Free length of spring
Thickness of driving plate Thickness of driven plate Top clearance
Oil pump

Gap between spindle and valve body
End gap

Clutch
Troubleshooting
1 1.Free distance insufficient 2 2.Clutch plate worn 3 3.Clutch plate bent Clutch lever pressure too high 1
Clutch cable stuck, damaged or dirty
Clutch slipping when speeding up the engine
If the clutch goes wrong during operation, it can normally be put right by adjusting its free play of the clutch lever.

Vehicle moving slowly when clutch is released 1 Free distance too great 2 Clutch plate bent Clutch difficult to operate
2 Lifter damaged Oil pressure too low 1 Oil pump failure 2 Oil pump driving gear broken Gearshift pedal unable to spring back 1 Return spring broken 2
54
1 Locating plate bent or worn Gearshift difficult 1 Locating plate bent or worn 2 Clutch incorrectly adjusted Shifting gear skipping 1
Locating plate spring broken or lacking elasticity
Gearshift shaft interfering with crankcase or crankcase cover

Right crankcase cover
Removal of Right Crankcase Cover

Drain off the oil. Disconnect the clutch control cable. Remove the exhaust muffler. Remove the gearshift pedal. Remove the starting lever. Remove the right crankcase cover.

Clutch lever
Clutch
101
Remove the clutch disengagement lever and pin. Remove the bearing 101. Unscrew the fastening screws from the oil cleaner. Remove the oil cleaner cover.

Oil cleaner
Clutch
16mm
Remove the 16mm round nut and butterfly washer with the 4-jaw wrench. Remove the oil cleaner.

Remove the bolts fastening the clutch plate and spring and remove the latter.

Note: Be sure to loosen the bolts in a diagonal order for two or three times.
55

Remove the spring circlip with the retaining ring pliers.

Remove the central clutch sleeve, clutch driving and driven plates and hold-down disc.

Remove the splined wasther from the clutch cover. Remove the clutch colver and driving gear.
15 8 1. Butterfly washer 10 2. Clutch cover 14 3. Central frame 4. Friction disc 5. Friction lining 6. Hold-down disc 7. Disengagement disc 8. Disengagement shaft bush 9. Clutch spring 10. Flange bolt 11. Round nut 12. Retaining ring 13. End cover bearing 14. Washer 15. Push rod 16. Clutch assembly 13 7 11 1 9 3 5 4 4 5
6 12 2
16
Clutch Dissembled
56

Checking of Clutch Spring

Measure the free length of the clutch spring.
34.20mm
Repair limit value:34.20mm
Checking of Friction Lining

Check the driving friction lining for scratch or discoloration marks and replace it if such defects are found. Measure the thickness of the lining.
2.60mm
Check the driven friction lining for distortion with a feeler gauge.
0.20mm
Checking of Clutch Cover

Check the tooth groove in the drum-shaped surface of the cover for possible damages or cuts caused by friction with the clutch hold-down disc.
Gearshift drum push plate
Disassembling/Reassembling of Gearshift Mechanism
Remove the gearshift gear shaft component. Remove the gearshift drum push plate. Remove the locating plate component.

Note: Check the push plate for wear or damage
57

Gearshift cam
Reassembling of Gearshift Mechanism
Put the locating pin into the gearshift drum mounting hole.

Put the push plate on the gearshift drum, align the locating pin hole in the push plate with that in the gearshift drum and tighten the bolt.

Put the locating plate component separately.

Note: Inlay the return spring of the locating plate into the bearing case seat.
Put on the locating plate component and tighten the bolt.

Note: After the parts are put together, turn the push plate to see if the gearshift drum works freely.
Put in the gearshift shaft.

Note: Before assembling, check the gearshift shaft to see it the thrust washer in on it. Also before assembling, give protection to the gearshift oil seal in the left case.
Installation of Clutch Put on the driving gear, clutch cover and spline washer.

Note: The flat surface of the spline washer must be direct outward when putting it in place.

Assemble the clutch lifting plate, hold-down disc, driving and driven linings and central sleeve.
Note:
Tighten the hold-down disc and clutch lining together by tapping then with a hammer and be sure to coat the hold-down disc with a thin layer of oil.

Put the above parts into the clutch cover.

Note: Be sure to turn the hold-down disc and central sleeve when assembling the clutch.
58

Spring circlip

Put in the spring circlip.

Put in the clutch spring and clutch lifting plate.

Tighten the flange bolts of the clutch lifting plate.

Note:The bolts should be tightened diagonally in two or three times.

Put in the oil cleaner and put on the round nut

Note: The marked side should be directed outward when putting on the round nut. Dowel pin
40~50N.m
Torque requirement: 40-50N.m Tighten the lock nut.
Put on the oil cleaner cover. Put in the clutch disengagement lever and dowel pin.
Oil Pump
2 20
Turn the oil pump gear until the screw can be seen from the hole in the gear. Unscrew the two fastening screws and remove the oil pump. Remove the two O-rings.
59

Fastening screw

Checking of Oil Pump

Measure the radial gap between the inner and outer spindles.
0.15mm
Theoretical value: 0.15mm Repair limit value: 0.20mm
0.20mm

Measure the radial gap between the pump body and outer spindle.
0.25mm

Measure the end face gap between the oil pump and spindle.
0.10mm

Note: Measure the end gap of the spindle after the washer is put in.
Assembling of Oil Pump

Put the oil drive gear and drive shaft into the oil pump body.

Note: The flat side of the oil pump drive gear should be lined up to the flat side of the drive shaft
Put in the inner and outer spindles of the oil pump.
Put in the paper gasket and lower cover of the oil pump.
Note:
The protrusion on the lower cover of the oil pump should be aligned to the notch in the pump body.

Tighten the upper cover screw.

Check the oil pump for normal function by turning the drive gear of the oil pump by hand.
60

Installation of Oil Pump Put on the O-ring.
O-ring
Install the oil pump.
0
Note: The O-ring must be put on correctly.
Installation of Right Crankcase Cover

Put on the right crankcase cover. Connect the clutch control cable. Put on the starting arm. Put on the exhaust muffler. Put on the gearshift pedal.
61
9
Magneto


Installation of Magneto Installation of Front Left Cover

Removal of Front Left Cover

Removal of Magneto

General

The magneto can be removed and installed by simplyremoving the front left crankcase cover without having to remove the engine. For checking of the magneto, refer to the section regarding the battery charging system.
Torque requirement

Torque requirement
4553N.m
Magneto rotor bolt: 45-53 N.m

Removal of Front Left Cover

Remove the gearshift pedal.

Remove the gearshift pedal.
Remove the duplex gears

Remove the front left cover.
62

Removal of Magneto

Remove the shaft gear.

Fasten the magneto rotor with the clamp.

Remove the magneto bolts

Put on the flywheel puller and remove the magneto rotor.

Remove the limit plate and then the disc gear.

Installation of Magneto

Put on the disc gear and shaft gear.

Put on the magneto rotor.

Note: The half-round key of the crankshaft should be aligned to the groove in the magneto rotor.
.
Tighten the magneto bolts to the required torque.
Installation of Front Left Cover

Put on the front left cover and tighten the bolts in a diagonal order. Connect the wire lead from the magneto to the neutral gear wire. Put on the power cable hold-down plate. Put on the duplex gears and upper left cover. Put on the rear left cover. Install the gearshift pedal.
RA TO
63
10
Crankcase, Crankshaft, Gearbox, Starter
Checking of Crankshaft Disassembling of Gearbox Disassembling of Starter Assembling of Starter Assembling of Gearbox
Troubleshooting
Removal of Cam Gear Assembly Checking of Cam Gear Assembly
Checking of Camshaft Disassembling of Tensioner Assembling of Tensioner
Installation of Crankshaft Installation of Cam Gear Assembling of Cam Gear Assembly
Parting of Crankcase Removal of Crankshaft Notes to Maintenance

This section provides procedures for disassembling and reassembling of the gearbox, crankshaft and starter. Before performing such jobs, the crankcase should be parted. Other parts of the engine should be removed before the crankcase is parted.
Removal of cylinder head Removal of cylinder/piston
Jobs to be done before crankcase parting
Removal of clutch, oil pump, gearshift mechanism
Part Specifications
Removal of magneto
Item Gearshift fork
Standard Value Inside diameter
(mm)
(mm)
Repair Limit
12.000~12.018 4.93~5.00 11.976~11.994 _ 15.010~15.028 0.05~0.30 0.004~0.008 19.954~19.980 20.000~20.021 32.768~32.928 14.060~14.081 14.024~14.006
12.05 4.50 11.96 0.1 15.08 0.6 0.05 19.90 20.05 32.628 14.101 13.986

Thickness

Gearshift fork shaft Outside diameter

Deflection

Inside diameter of small end of conrod
Crankshaft

Side gap of big end of conrod
Axial
Radial

Starter
Outside diameter of starting shaft

Inside diameter of starting gear

Cam gear assembly Height of cam
Inside diameter

Cam gear shaft
Outside diameter
64

Troubleshooting

Gearbox noisy 1.Main and secondary shaft gear worn 2.Splined shaft worn Cam gear noisy
Change of gears difficult 1.Fork bent or deformed 2.Fork shaft bent
1 2
1 2 1
Gearshift skipping
1.Gearshift gear ratchet worn
1 2 3
1.Cam worn
2.Fork bent or damaged 3.Fork shaft bent Crankshaft noisy
2.Cam gear worn
2 3 4 5
3.Tensioner spring weak
2.Conrod bent
1 1.Conrod big end bearing worn 2 3
4.Cam gear shaft fitting gap too wide 5.Helical gear meshing gap too wide
Spring hold-down plate
3.Conrod roller bearing worn
Removal of Cam Gear Assembly

Remove the cam shaft gear
Remove the spring hold-down plate and remove the spring
Cam gear assembly
Spring hold-down plate

Remove the cam gear assembly

Remove the tensioner assembly
Checking of Cam Gear Assembly

Measure the height of the cam.
32.768~32.928mm 32.628mm
Repair limit value: 32.628mm Standard value: 32.768-32.928mm
65
Measure the inside diameter of the cam gear. Standard value: 14.04-14.061mm Repair limit value: 14.101mm
14.04~14.061mm 14.101mm
14.006~14.024mm
Standard value: 14.006-14.024mm Measure the outside diameter of the cam gear
13.986mm
Disassembling/Assembling of Tensioner

After the tensioner is assembled, coat the spring with grease to prevent the plug from falling while the tensioner is installed. Pin pusher
Knock pin
Spring
Installation of Tensioner
0
When assembling the tensioner, be sure to give it a push, coat the O-ring with oil with a finger and tighten the tensioner after it is positioned.
Note: Take care not to put the tensioner plug in the reverse direction.
66
Parting of Crankcase

Place the right crankcase in an upward position.
Remove the locating plate for the clutch rib.
6mm
Unscrew the 6mm screws holding the two parts of the crankcase.

Separate the left part from the right part of the crankcase. Remove the packing gasket and locating pin.
Packing gasket

Remove the crankshaft component from the right part of the crankcase. 1. Crank-conrod component 2. Piston ring 3. Piston 4. Piston pin 5. Conrod 6. Crank 7. Crank 8. Crankpin 9. Crankshaft timing gear 10. Half-round key 11. Crankshaft bearing 12. Roller bearing 13. Piston pin retaining ring
5 12 13 2 8 11 6 10 4 7 11 9
Disassembling of Crankcase
Locating pin
13
Checking of Crankshaft Place the crankshaft on a V-block.

Measure the deflection (or radial runout) of the crankshaft with a dial indicator.
AB
0.02mm
From Point A to Point B: Maximum value: 0.02mm
0.05mm
XY 0.05mm
Measure the gap of the conrod bearing., i.e. the radial gap between two points in the X and Y directions. Repair limit value: 0.05mm
67

Measure the conrod big end side gap.
0.8mm

Replace the bearing if it makes the engine noisy or its radial cunout and end runout is too great.
Turn the crankshaft bearing and check the radial runout and end runout.
Free play
/
Removal/Installation of Timing Gear
Removal

Draw a line on the timing gear tooth having a round mark from the addendum toward the center of the gear. Draw another line passing the center of the keyway on the crankshaft and then remove the timing gear. Installation
Radial
Axial

Draw a line on a new timing gear and then push the gear into position on the crankshaft, making sure the line on the gear is aligned with that on the crankshaft.
Note:
Do not draw the line beyond the specified range. Otherwise the oil seal will be damaged. As the gear is relatively soft, take care not to hit it on other parts, scratch it and deform it. Otherwise much greater engine noise will result.
Disassembling of Gearshift Component

Remove the fork shaft and then the fork.

Remove the gearshift drum and pull out the main and secondary shafts.
68
//
Checking of Fork/Fork Shaft/Gearshift Drum
0.05mm
Check each fork for wear, bending or any other irregularity and measure the inside diameter and thickness of the fork. Repair limit value: 0.05mm Fork
11.96mm
Check the gearshift fork for wear, damage or bending and measure the outside diameter. Repair limit value: 11.96mm
Fork shaft

Check the gearshift drum and neutral gear contact for wear or damage.
Gearshift drum

Remove the main shaft and secondary shaft

Check the stop pin of each gear for excessive or unusual wear.

Main and secondary shafts

Measure the thickness of the fork pawl.
69
Fork pawl

Removal of Starting Shaft Component

Remove the starting shaft component.
Starting shaft
Disassembling of Starting Shaft Component
16mm 16mm 16mm

Remove the thrust washer, inner spring bush, return spring and spring seat. Remove the 16mm spring circlip and then take off the fork pawl component, 16mm washer, ratchet spring and starting ratchet wheel. Remove the 16mm spring circlip and then remove the thrust washer and starting gear.
Checking of Starting Gear
:20.5mm
Check the starting teeth for wear or damage and measure the inside diameter of the starting gear. Repair limit value: 20.5mm
Starting teeth
Checking of Starting Shaft
19.90mm
Measure the inside diameter of the shaft at the sliding surface of the starting gear. Repair limit value: 19.90mm Starting shaft
70

Assembling of Starting Shaft
16mm
Put the starting gear, thrust washer and 16mm spring circlip on the shaft.

Put on the starting ratchet wheel.
Note: The marks made on the ratchet wheel and shaft must be aligned to each other.
16mm
Assemble the ratchet spring, thrust washer, fork component and 16mm spring circlip, spring seat, return spring and thrust washer.
Assembling of Starting Shaft Component
Note: Inlay the end of the staring shaft spring into the groove in the right part of the crankcase. Insert the end of the return spring into the hole in the right part of the crankcase. Pull out the starting ratchet, turn it clockwise and then push in the fork component and starting ratchet wheel to get them engaged.
Right crankcase
Starting ratchet teeth
Assembling of Gearshift Drum and Main and Secondary shafts
Note: Coat each of the parts with oil before assemble it.
Secondary shaft
rd Low-speed gear 3 -speed gear 4 th-speed gear
5 -speed gear 2 nd-speed gear
th
71

Put the main and secondary shafts in place.

Note:Pay attention to the fitting direction of the thrust washer and spring circlip. The circlip should be put correctly into the circular groove in the shaft.

Put the main and secondary shafts into the right crankcase.

Note: Hold the thrust washer with the fingers to get it into the mounting position.

Put the right fork in between the main and secondary shafts.

Note:When assembling the right fork, the marked side should be faced down.

Put in the gearshift drum

Note: Raise the gear by hand to get the right fork guide pin into mesh with the slide groove in the gearshift drum.
4 5
Insert the central fork into the groove in the 4 th-speed gear on the main shaft from the side of the secondary shaft and the 5 th-gear fork into the groove in the 5 th-speed gear.

Note: When installing the central fork, the marked side should be faced up.

Insert the fork shaft into the right crankcase through the hole in the top.
360 0
Note:After assembling, check the gear to see if it is able to turn clockwise and counterclockwise through 360 without getting stuck.
72

Put the crankshaft into the right crankcase.
Note:
When installing the crankshaft, hold it upright with the right hand and keep the right crankcase with the left hand. Do not hit the crankshaft with any tool.
Installation of Crankcase

Put on the left crankcase. Tighten the joining bolts. Put in the locating pin and paper gasket.
Note:The washers must be put into the correct position. Tighten the bolts in a diagonal order.

Face the right crankcase up, put on the clutch rid locating plate and tighten the bolts.
Installation of Cam Gear

Turn the crankshaft to the top dead center of the piston (with the half-round key faced up) and put in the can gear component.

Note:When assembling the cam gear, the mark on it should be aligned to the mark on the timing gear.Keep the cam gear component clean and prevent dust and dirt from getting into the cavity of the left crankcase.
50
Put in the cam gear shaft. Put in the spring and hold-down plate and tighten the bolt. P u t o n t h e 50 oil seal. ?
73
11
Steering System, Front Wheel, Brake, Suspension
Front Wheel
Front Brake
Removal/Installation of Headlamp Meters
Front Suspension
Steering Tube
Handlebar

Technical Specifications

Radial runout of front axle
0.2mm 2 mm 2mm 476mm 30.9mm 130mm 2mm

Required Fastener Tightening Torque Values

Limit value of radial runout of wheel rim

Front axle nut
50-70N.m 60-90N.m 9-11N.m 10-14N.m 20-25N.m 40-50 N.m

Limit value of axial runout of wheel rim

Steering tube cap nut

Limit value of free length of spring

Handlebar fastening nut

Limit value of front fork tube
Shock absorber fastening bolton upper plate Shock absorber fastening bolt on lower plate Packing nut on upper end of shock absorber

Limit value of thickness of brake lining
Limit value of inside diameter of brake drum

Troubleshooting
Steering difficult
1
Steering tube adjusting nut too tight;
Front wheel wobbling

1
Wheel rim twisted;
2
Steering tube bearing worn;
2
Front axle bearing worn;
3
Steering tube thrust bearing ball worn;
3
Wheel spokes deformed or loosened;
4
Front tire pressure insufficient.
4
Tire damaged;
5
Front axle nut loosened.
Tending to one side during travel

1
Front fork tube bent;
Suspension not rigid enough

1
Front fork spring weak;
2
Front axle bent, wheel not installed correctly;
3
Steering tube bent or deformed.
74
2
Front fork containing less hydraulic oil than enough.

Suspension too rigid 1
Too much hydraulic oil in front fork
Brake inefficient
1
Brake not properly adjusted;
Suspension noisy
2
Brake lining worn;
1
Front fork tube slide jammed;
3
Brake lining wet with water or oil;
2
Insufficient hydraulic oil in front fork;
4
Brake drum worn;
3
Front fork loosened;
5
Brake cam worn;
6
Brake arm not properly installed.
75

Combination Meter
Removal/Insta llation of Combination Meter

Remove the headlamp case, unscrew the flexible shaft nut and disconnect the combination meter. Unscrew the fasten ing nut and rem ove the meter panel.
Disassembling of Meter Panel

Unscrew the fastening screws from the meter panel and then remove the panel cover.
Replacement of Meter Lamp

Pry open the rubber sleeve of the bulb.

Put in a new bulb. If it does not go on, check the wiring for breaking or shorting or loose cable connection.
Replacement of Indicator Lamps

Pry open the rubber sleeve of each bulb and remove the speedometer and tachometer bulbs.
76

Handlebar
Removal of Handlebar

Disconnect the switch wires on the left and right side of the handlebar.

Remove the handgrips and switches and disconnect the clutch control cable.
Remove the handlebar fastening seat and then the handlebar.
Installation of Handlebar

Follow the reverse order of the above steps to install the handlebar.

Note:When assembling the clamps to the handlebar, the mark on the base should be aligned with the mark on the handlebar tube.
77

Put on the throttle grip and insert the pin on the bottom base into the lock hole in the handlebar. Be sure to insert only half of it and then tighten the front screws and then rear screws to the same torque.

Note:Coat the throttle grip with oil before putting it in place.

Ignition switch

Install the ignition switch.

Put in the wire harness fastening band.
Front Wheel
Removal of front wheel

Place a wood pad or stand under the engine to lift the wheels off the ground. Unscrew the fastening screws to remove the speedometer shaft and disconnect the front brake control cable.

Loose and remove the axle nut and remove the axle from the front wheel.

Axle nut
78

Checking of Front Axle V 1/2
Place the front axle on V-blocks and measure its runout with a dial indicator. The actual runout should be 1/2 of the total reading.
0.2mm
Checking of Wheel Bearing

Place the wheel on a straightening table, make the wheel rotate fast by hand and check the free play of the wheel bearing.
Free play
Free play

Replace the bearing if an unusual noise is heard or the free play is found too wide.
Axial Radial

Place the wheel on the straightening table, check the deflection of the wheel rim and then make the wheel rotate by hand and then read value shown on the dial indicator.
2.0mm 2.0mm
Lining bush
Repair limit value: Axial 2.0mm Axial 2.0mm
Replacement of Wheel Bearing

Remove the lining bush from the right side.
79

Replace the upper and lower bearings on front wheel.

Insert the bearing tool shaft into the opening in the tool, tap on the tool shaft until the axle is securely fastened.

Tap on the bearing tool as shown in the picture on the right and remove the axle bearing.
80

Installation of Front Wheel
Coat the cavity of the wheel bearing with grease and put on the left bearing and bush and then right bearing.
Note:When installing the bearing, be sure to push in the bearing with the seal opening faced out in a vertical position.

Put in a new dust seal.

Put on the lining bush on the right side.

Put the front brake on the front wheel hub.

When installing the front wheel, be sure to inlay the protrusion lug on the bottom tube of the left fork cylinder into the groove in the brake and then insert the axle from the right side.
Tighten the axle nut.

Connect the flexible shaft of the speedometer to the gearbox and tighten the screw. Turn the front wheel to see if it is able to rotate freely. Adjust the free play of the front brake lever.
81

Construction of Upper and Lower Pump Assembly
4 2 6 5 1 5 3 9
11 12
13 14 15
22
10 8 19 16 7 5 5 6 20 17 21 18
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
M6
9 10 11 12 13 14 15
M612 M620 M832
16 17 18 19 20 21 22
1. Right handle 2. Handle bolt 3. M6Nut M6 4. Upper disc brake pump 5. Washer 6. Oil passage bolt 7. Disc brake oil pipe 8. Pipe clip
9. Cover 10. Lower pump packing ring 11. Buffer seat 12. Noise-absorbing spring 13. Disc brake lining 14. Cylinder liner 15. Lower disc brake pump
16. Pipe clip 17. M612Bolt M612 18. Mounting base 19. M620Bolt M620 20. M832Bolt M832 21. Bolt bar 22. Cover
82
Replacement of Brake Lining 1. 1 2

Remove the locating bolt and remove caliper case .
2. 1 2 3
Remove the brake lining , lining spring and locating spring .
3. 1 2 3
Check the caliper holder , caliper case and rubber cover for fissure or damage. If yes, replace them.
4. 4
Lubricate the guide pin .
a A
Note: The protrusion on the brake lining must be directed toward A.
5. 1 2 3 Install the locating spring , lining spring and lining .
83
6. 1
Lubricate the locating bolt .
7.
2
Install the caliper case and locating bolt.
Disassembling of Caliper 1. 1
Loosen the fastening bolt .
2. 2
Remove the locating bolt .
3.
Remove the caliper case, brake lining, lining spring and locating spring.
84
4. 1
Remove the caliper holder .
5.
2
1
Remove the fastening bolt and remove the copper washer .
6.
1
Remove the piston .
7. 1
2
Remove the dust seal and piston seal .
85

Disassembling of Master Cylinder 1. 1 2 3 4
Remove the back mirror , brake lever cover , nut and bolt .
2. 1 2 3
Remove the brake lever , return spring and brake switch .

Note:As shown in the sketch, lift the stop with a small screwdriver to remove the brake switch.
3. 1
Loosen the fastening bolt .
4. 1 2 3
Remove the master cylinder , fastening bolt and washer .
5. 1 2 3 4 5
Remove the master cylinder cover , diaphragm , rubber cover and elastic retaining ring and master cylinder component .
86

Checking and Repairing 1.
Checking:
Caliper cylinder: Replace it if wear or scratch is found.
Piston: Replace it if scratch, rust or wear is found.
Caliper holder: Replace it if fissured or damaged.
Caliper case: Replace it if fissured or damaged.
Rubber cover: Replace it if fissured, damaged or worn.

Oil hole: Clean it with compressed air.
Master cylinder : Replace it if damaged or scratched.
Cylinder body : Replace it if worn or scratched.

Oil passage: Clean it with compressed air.
Master cylinder component: Replace it altogether if damaged or worn.
87
2
Measuring
0.8mm
Thickness of brake lining: Replace it if worn out of the 0.8mm limit.
0.3mm
Brake caliper: Maximum distortion limit 0.3mm
a 4.00mm
Thickness of brake caliper on a micrometer: Thickness a to be 4.00mm
88
Assembling of Caliper 1.
Install
3
Piston seal Dust seal Piston
2.
Install
Caliper holder
3.
Install

Brake lining spring Brake lining Caliper case Locating bolt
4.
Install
1 3
Washer Brake hose Fastening bolt
2
a b
Note:Inlay the opening a of the brake hose into the groove in the caliper case b .
89

Assembling of Master Cylinder 1.
Install
Master cylinder component Elastic retaining ring Rubber cover
2.
Install
1
Master cylinder
3.
Install
3
Washer Brake hose Fastening bolt
A 90
Note: As shown in the sketch, install the brake hose at A 90.
4.
Install
2 3 4 5
Brake switch Spring Brake lever Brake lever cover Back mirror
90

Front Fork
(81 (82
Place a piece of wood or stand under the engine to lift the front wheel off ground. Remove the front wheel (See Page 81). Remove the brake (See Page 82). Remove the front mudguard.

Remove each front fork holder and turn the front fork tube.

Loosen the bolt connecting the upper linking plate with the lower linking plate.

Linking plate bolt
91

Disassembling of Front Fork Hold the front fork tube in a bench vice. Remove the packing bolt from the fork tube.

Checking of Spring 476mm
Measure the free length of the spring. Repair limit value: 476mm
476mm

Oil drain bolt

Unscrew the oil drain bolt to drain off oil from the front fork tube. Draw it several times to empty it thoroughly.
92

Hold the bottom cylinder in the vice and unscrew the sleeve bolt with an in inner hex wrench. Remove the fork tube, base tube and oil seal. Check the parts for wear or damage. Replace the worn or damaged ones.

Checking of Fork Tube Runout V 1/2 0.2mm
Place the fork tube between two V-blocks an d measure the runout with a dial indicator. Take 1/2 of the total value as the amount of wear. Repair limit value: 0.2mm
30.9mm
Measure the outside diameter of the fork tube and take measurements at several more points on the sliding surface. Repair limit value: 30.9mm

Remove the oil seal.

Note:When removing the oil seal and circlip, take care not to damage the inner and outer sides of the sliding surface.
Oil seal

Remove the dust seal cover and remove the circlip with the circlip pliers.
93

Checking of Bottom Cylinder 31.1mm
Check the inside sliding surface of the bottom cylinder for wear or damage and measure the inside diameter of the bottom cylinder. Repair limit value: 31.1mm
Assembling of Front Fork

Before assembling, clean the parts in a cleaning solvent and dry them completely.

Insert the base tube into the bottom cylinder so that the oil seal is in the short end of the base tube. Insert the front fork tube into the sliding part of the bottom cylinder and tighten the sleeve bolt with a hex wrench.

Note: The sleeve bolt should be coated with sealant.
Groove

Push the fork tube sleeve and the oil seal into the bottom cylinder.
Oil seal
94
8
Inlay the circlip with the pliers into the groove in the bottom cylinder and pour the specified amount of #8 low condensation point gasoline engine oil. Circlip

Note: Do not over-fill the bottom cylinder.
159ml
Specified amount of oil: 159ml
Fork tube spring

Put the spring into the fork tube.

Note: When putting in the spring, be sure the end with a shorter pitch should be faced up.
40-50N.m
Hold the front fork tube in the vice and tighten the packing bolt. Torque requirement: 40-50N.m
Installation of Front Fork Frame

Insert the fork tube through the upper and lower linking plates and meanwhile turn it by hand to get it into position.

Tighten the upper and linking plate bolts on the fork tube. Put on the front mudguard. Install the front wheel.
95

Steering System
Remove the handlebar. Remove the headlamp and meter panel. Remove the front wheel. Unscrew the cap nut with a wrench and remove the upper linking plate. Steering adjusting nut

Unscrew the steering adjusting nut.

Note: Do not drop the steel balls.
Steering tube component

Remove the steering tube component from the frame. Remove the bearing race with a special tool. Check the lower bearing race for wear or damage and replace it if it is worn or damaged.

Check the steel balls and race for wear or damage and replace them if it is worn or damaged.
Steel ball
96

Check the lower bearing race to see if it is damaged. If yes, replace it.
Installation of Steering Tube

Push the roller bearing into the steering tube with the bearing race driver. Coat the steel balls, upper and lower bearing races with grease and put in the steering tube through the frame from the bottom end.

Put on the adjusting nut and tighten it into engag ement with the upper bearing base.
1/8
Note:Tighten the nut and then loosen it by 1/8 turn. No vertical movement is allowed and yet the steering pipe is able to turn freely.
Install the headlamp bracket. Install the upper connecting plate. Install the front bracket. Tighten the cap nut. Install the handlebar, meter, headlamp and front wheel.
97
12
Rear Wheel, Brake, Suspension

Rear brake

Rear Shock Absorber
Rear Wheel
Rear Fork

This section provides procedures for disassembling and reassembling of the rear wheel, rear brake and rear shock absorber. Before removing these parts, raise the engine with a jack or stand so that the rear wheel is lifted off ground.

Part Specifications
Item
mm
Standard Value(mm)
mm
Repair Limit(mm)

Axle runout
0.2
Axial

Wheel rim runout
2.0 2.0 130.0 3.9-4.1 225.6 131.0 2.0 221.0
Radial

Inside diameter of brake drum

Brake lining thickness

Free length of shock absorber spring
Torque Requirements: Axle nut Rear fork pivot shaft bolt and nut Rear brake conrod bolt Shock absorber bolt Driven sprocket wheel
50-80N.m 50-80N.m 55-65N.m 55-65N.m 30-40N.m 30-40N.m 30-40N.m 30-40N.m 20-25N.m 20-25N.m 8-12N.m 8-12N.m
98
Brake cam fastening bolt

Troubleshooting
Vehicle body wobbling or vibrating 1 Wheel bearing run loose; 2 Wheel rim distorted; 3 Rear axle bent; 4 Tire pressure incorrect; 5 Axle nut run loose. Suspension not rigid enough 1 Spring weak; 2 Rear shock absorber not strong enough; Suspension too rigid 1 Fastener run loose; 2 Shock absorber stop rubber piece faulty; 3 Shock absorber shaft bent. Suspension noisy 1 Fastener run loose; 2 Shock absorber stop rubber piece faulty; 3 Shock absorber leaking oil; 4 Shock absorber stuck with spring. Brake not functioning efficiently 1 Brake not adjusted correctly; 2 Brake shoe worn; 3 Brake lining dirty or damaged; 4 Brake drum worn; 5 Brake arm spline not correctly meshed.
Rear Wheel

Raise the engine with a jack or wood stand so that the rear wheel is lifted off ground. Turn the rear brake-adjusting nut outward and push the rear brake pedal to disengage the brake arm from the brake lever.
Adjusting nut

Loosen the axle nut, drive chain lock nut and drive chain adjusting nut.

Remove the stop bolt, push the wheel forward and move the rear wheel.

Remove the fastener ring of the drive chain joint with pliers, remove the drive chain, and pull the rear wheel backward to remove it.

Axle bolt
99

Drive chain adjusting bolt

Checking of Main Shaft Straightness
V 1/2
Place the main shaft on two V-blocks and read the bending from the dial indicator. The actual bending is 1/2 of the total value.
0.2mm
Checking of Wheel Bearing

Free play
Free play
Place the wheel on a inspection table, push it by hand to make it turn fast and check the free play of the wheel bearing. If a noise is heard or free play too wide, replace the bearing.
Axial
Radial
Wheel Rim
Place the wheel on the inspection table and check the runout of the wheel rim. Then push the wheel by hand to make it turn fast. Read the runout from a dial indicator.
2.0mm 2.0mm
Repair limit value:Radial: 2.0mm Axial: 2.0mm
Checking of Rear Brake Drum

Measure the inside diameter of the bake drum.
131mm
Repair limit value: 131mm
100

Checking of Buffer Sleeve

Check the buffer sleeve to see if it has lost elasticity or damaged. If yes, replace it immediately.
Bearing
Removal of Wheel Bearing

Insert the bearing-removing tool into the bearing and tap on it until the wheel bearing is tightened.

Tap on the tool to remove the wheel bearing.
Assembling of Rear Wheel

Fill the cavity of the bearing with grease. Push in the left bearing. Insert the shaft sleeve. Push in the right bearing.
Note: Push in the bearing vertically. When assembling the bearing, be sure that the seal opening is faced outward.
101

Put in the fastening bolt until its flange gets correctly into the driven sprocket wheel.
Fastening bolt
Checking of Driven Sprocket Wheel

Check the condition of the driven sprocket wheel at the end.

Replace the sprocket wheel if it is worn or broken.

Note: If the driven sprocket wheel is worn or broken, the driving sprocket wheel and drive chain should also be checked.
Good
Should be replaced
Installation of Rear Wheel

Put in the axle, chain adjusters on both ends and axle nut, making sure they are not too tight.

Note:The locating plate on the rear brake cover should be correctly installed.
102

Install the drive chain on the driving and driven sprocket wheels and then joint the chain with the joining ring and chain clip.

Note: The direction of the drive chain clip should be correct.
Moving direction
Put in the stop bolt and tighten it. Connect the rear brake lever and brake arm, install the rear brake adjuster and adjust the drive chain slackness. Put on the rear axle nut and tighten it.
5080N.m
Torque requirement: 50-80 N.m

Rear Brake
The rear brake can be removed only after the rear wheel is removed.
103

Checking of Rear Brake Lining
Measure the thickness of the rear brake lining. 2.0mm Repair limit value: 2.0mm
Replacement of Rear Brake Lining

Pull the brake lining fastener sideways, remove the spring and then remove the brake shoe.
Spring

Brake lining
Assembling of Rear Brake Cover

Coat the surface of the brake cam with grease.

Install the brake cam.

Install the new brake lining

Install the spring

Warning: The contamination of the brake lining with grease will degrade the brake performance. Therefore keeping the brake lining clean is of great imp ortance. Always remove excessive grease from the cam after it is assembled.
104

Installation of Brake Arm

Note: The print mark on the cam should be aligned to the print mark on the brake arm.

Tighten the bolt and nut to the specified torque.
812N.m
Rear Shock Absorber

Removal of Rear Shock Absorber

Unscrew the upper and lower shock absorber fastening bolts.

Remove the shock absorber.
Checking of Rear Shock Absorber

Compress the rear shock absorber spring with a special tool, tighten the lock nut and remove the spring.

Measure the free length of the spring .
221mm
221mm
Repair limit value: 221mm
105

Assembling

Compress the spring with a spring compressor to a space just enough to put in the spring fastener.

Note:Coat the screw threads with adhesive before installing the shock absorber spring.
Installation of Rear Shock Absorber

Install the left and right rear shock absorbers.
3040N.m

Push the end of the frame by hand several times to check the condition of the rear shock absorber.
Note: The left and right rear shock absorbers must be adjusted to the same rigidity.
Removal of Rear Fork
Rear Fork
Remove the exhaust muffler.

Remove the driven chain cover.

Remove the drive chain.

Remove the rear wheel.

Remove the shock absorber.

Remove the rear fork shaft bolt.
106

Disassembling of Rear Fork

Note:Knock out the shaft sleeve with a soft peen hammer to avoid damaging the sleeve. Coat it with grease after assembling it.
Checking of Rear Fork

Check the rear fork for crack or damage.

Check the lining bush for damage or other defects.
Installation of Rear Fork

Put the stop arm on the rear fork.

Put in the split pin and separate its two legs. Fasten the rear fork with the bolts.
5565N.m
Torque requirement: 55-65 N.m Rear fork bolt
107
13 Battery and Charging System

Testing of Specific Weight of Battery Solution
Troubleshooting
Charging of Battery
Battery
Checking of Charging System
General: The battery solution level should be checked often. Replenish the battery with distilled water if the level is lower than the lower limit. For battery charging, the correct procedure is to remove the battery from the vehicle and charge it slowly with the charger. Normally do not use the quick-charging process. When the battery has to be charged on the vehicle, make sure there is no fire being used nearby as the battery will produce the easily ignitable and explosive hydrogen gas during the charging process. Technical Specifications
Specific weight of battery solution
Item
Standard Value
1.280 0.010g/cm3 (25 )
Daytime

Battery
Voltage
Nighttime
1500r/min 8500r/min
DC resistance
14.0V 14.6V
13.5V 14.6V
Magneto
Yellow-Yellow
Blue, Yellow-Green
0.91.2 22050 550~680

Black, Red-Green
Roubleshooting
No power when ignition switch is switched on

1
Battery power running out battery solution evaporated too much, grid coating come off, charging system faulty.
2
Battery power cable disconnected or containing broken wires inside.

3
Fuse blown.
4
Ignition switch failed.
108
Power too weak when ignition switch is pushed on

1
Battery power too low battery solution level too low, specific weight of battery solution too small, charging system faultily.
2
Battery power cable lead not in good connection.

Discontinuous power supply 1 Battery in loose connection 2 Charging system in loose connection 3 Ignition switch faulty Charging system failure 1 Charging circuit connection run loose, cut off or shorted. 2 Magneto defected 3 Voltage-regulating rectifier defected
Removal of Battery Remove the right side cover. Disconnect the positive and negative terminals and vent tube. Remove the fastening strip from the battery and remove the battery.
+
Note: Always disconnect the negative terminal (-) before disconnecting the positive terminal (+).
Testing of Specific Weight of Battery Solution Test the specific weight of the battery solution with a densimeter. 20 Standard value at 20
1.270~1.290 1.260
Sufficiently charged
Insufficiently charged
11.250 2 3
Note: 1The battery should be charged immediately if the specific weight of the battery solution is less than 1.250. 2The specific weight of the battery solution changes with its temperature. Prepare the battery solution according to the following chart showing the relationship between the temperature and specific weight. 3Replace the battery if the grid of the battery is sulfurized or full of deposit.
109
Relationship between temperature and specific weight of battery solution
Charging of Battery 6 Remove the six plugs from the battery. + + Connect the positive terminal (+) of the charger to that of the battery and the negative terminal of the charger to that of the battery. 0.7~1.0A Charging current: 0.7-1.0A 1.270~ 1.290 20 Charging time:as long as the specific weight of the battery solution reaches 1.270-1.290 (at 20.
1 6 2 3 4 45 5 Note: 1The six covers must be removed from the battery before charging. 2The battery must be kept away from fire
Specific weight
Solution temperature,
Specific weight
when being charged. 3T h e power switch should be located on the battery charger. 4S top charging when the temperature of the battery solution gets up to more than 45 5Q uick-charging is used only in emergency situations where the battery life is not considered or otherwise the slow-charging process used be sued.
20mm 5mm
Note: Determine the location of the battery vent tube. As shown in the sketch, connect the vent tube and cut a 5mm long through joint both sides 20mm from both ends of the vent tube.
Upper limit Lower limit
Only distilled water can be used inside the battery.
110

Checking of Battery Charging System

Test the output of the charging system. Start the engine to warm it up.

Note: For this test, a battery in good condition should be used.
Connect the ammeter and voltmeter as shown, slowly increase the engine speed and read out the values on the meters.
Magnet Output Test

Connect the ammeter and voltmeter as described above to get the reading. Replace the magneto if the value is not within the range specified in the table below. Condition Lighting Switch Off Lighting Switch On Item r/min V V
Speed (rpm)
Voltage (V)
Voltage (V)
Idle speed at beginning of charging
1500 14.0 above 14.0 14.6 above 14.6
1500 13.5 above 13.5 14.6 above 14.6
1500 8500
Testing of Lighting System Winding

0.9~1.2 / 22050 / 550~ 680
Check the resistance between each pair of wire leads as shown to see if it is 0.9-1.20 between yellow and yellow, 22050, between blue/yellow and green and 550-680 between black/red and green.
Testing of Voltage Regulating Rectifier

Remove the left side cover.
Disconnect the rectifier. Remove the rectifier.

111

As shown in the picture, measure the resistance between the wiring terminals of the voltage regulating rectifier. Replace the rectifier if the reading is not within the range of the following table.
RX1k Rx100
Note: This test should be carried out a multimeter set to the R1 k or Rx100 position.
Test Resistance of Voltage-regulating Rectifier

k
Unit: k
Yellow
Yellow
Black
Red
Green
Yellow
2.5 2.5
0.4~5
2.5 2.5
Yellow
Black
Red
Green
112
14 Ignition and Electric Starting System
Checking and Removal of Electronic Igniter
Troubleshooting
Checking of Charging Winding
Removal and Checking of Ignition Coil
Checking of Pulse Generator

Removal of Checking of Starting Motor
Checking of One-way Conductor
Checking of Starting Relay

Notes to Maintenance General CDI This vehicle is fitted with an advanced CDI that requires no manual adjustment. If the ignition system gets into trouble, check the CDI, magneto, pulse generator, ignition coil, etc. and replace the faulty parts. Technical Specifications
Standard Value D8RTC Chinese-made Spark Plug Gap 0.6~0.7mm Lead at idle speed 15 0BTDC 0 Ignition Timing Maximum lead 35 BTDC/3740r/min Primary coil resistance 0.53 10% Ignition Coil Secondary coil resistance 2.0~4.0k 550~680 Magneto charging winding resistance Pulse generator resistance 22050 Starting motor resistance 0R0.5 Starting relay resistance 0R0.5 Item
Troubleshooting
Engine unable to get started when start pedal is pushed 1 Spark plug generating no sparks spark plug damaged, no current in primary coil, internal resistance too great 2 Ignition switch failed ignition switch not turned on, ignition switch shorted 3 Ignition timing not correct 4 Electronic igniter damaged 5 Shut-off switch not on
113
Engine unable to get started electrically Ignition coil damage 1 7 Battery power weak or run out Magneto failed 2 8 Fuse blown Pulse generator failed 3 9 Starting motor failed Ignition system circuit cut off or shorted 4 One-way conductor failed Engine speed instable 5 1 Clutch slipping 6 Ignition timing in correct electronic igniter, Starting relay damaged coil pulse generator defective or magneto defective 7 Ignition Starting coil shorted or cut off 2 8 Spark plug failed Neutral gear switch not on or gearbox not set 3 in neutral gear Ignition coil failed 4 Power supply incorrectly wired or poorly contacted 6
Removal of Ignition Coil Remove the fuel tank. Disconnect the ignition coil. Unscrew the fastening screw and remove the ignition coil. Unscrew the spark plug from the cap. Remove the clip from the high-tension cable.
Checking of Ignition Coil

As shown in the picture, measure the resistances of the primary and secondary ignition coils.
0.5310% Primary coil resistance: 0.5310% 2.0~4.0k Secondary coil resistance: 2.0~4.0k
Replace the ignition coil if the resistance is not within the specified range.
Multimeter
114

Removal of Electronic Igniter
Remove the right side cover. Disconnect the electric igniter and remove it.
Checking of Electronic Igniter

Remove
As shown in the picture, measure the resistance between the wiring poles of the electronic igniter. Replace the electronic igniter if the resistance is not within the range specified in the following table.
RX1kR X100
Note: Perform this check with a multimeter set to the RX1k or X100 position.
Specified Range of Resistance for Electronic Igniter

Ignition Switch Charging Winding Ignition Coil
Ignition Switch
E1E2
Pulse Generator 1EE2
Grounding
0.1~50 100~ 0.5~100 20~50 0.1~50
100~
100~ 10~200

Charging Winding

Ignition Coil E1E2
Pulse Generator 1EE2
5~50
Grounding
Checking of Charging Winding Remove the left side cover. Disconnect the charging winding. / Measure the resistance between the red wire and green wire. 550~680 Ignition winding resistance: 550-690 Replace the ignition winding if the resistance is not within the specified range.
115
Checking of Pulse Generator Remove the left side cover. Disconnect the pulse generator. / Measure the resistance between the blue/yellow wire and green wire. 22050 Pulse generator resistance: 22050 Starting motor Replace the pulse generator if the resistance is not within the specified range.
Removal of Starting Motor Unwire the positive pole. Unscrew the fastening screw. Remove the starting motor.
Checking of Starting Motor Measure the resistance between the positive and negative poles of the starting motor. 0 R 0.5 Starting motor resistance: 0R0.5 Replace the starting motor if the resistance is not within the specified range.
Starting relay
Checking of Starting Relay DC12V A clicking sound should be heard from the relay when the wire lead is connected to the 12V DC power supply. Measure the resistance between the movable contact bolts with a multimeter set to the resistance-checking mode.
0R0.5 Starting relay resistance: 0R0.5 DC12V Replace the staring relay if the resistance is not within the specified range or no clicking sound is Specified Range of Resistance for One-way Conductor heard when the 12V DC power is switched on. k Unit: k Checking of One-way Conductor / Red probe Light green/Red Pink Black probe Set the multimeter to the resistance-checking mode and test the resistance according to the table. 1~10 Pink 500~ / Replace the one-way conductor if the resistance is not Light green/Red within the specified range.
116
15
Switches
Checking of Front Brake Lamp Switch
Troubleshooting
Checking of Rear Brake Lamp Switch
Checking of Ignition System
Checking of Fuel Sensor and Fuel Meter
Checking of Lighting Switch
/ Notes to Maintenance
General
All the wires of the electric system have been identified with different colors. When connecting the wires, always note the color difference.When two or more wires are to be connected together, plastic tubes having the colors of the wires to be connected are provided at the wire ends.
Technical Specifications
Item Headlamp / Tail lamp/Brake lamp Turn signal lamp Position lamp High-beam indicator Left turn indicator Right turn indicator Neutral gear indicator Meter lamp Standard Value 35W/35W 21W Quantity 1 1 4 2 1 1 1 1
10W 5W 1.7W 1.7W 1.7W 1.7W 1.7W
No lamp going on when ignition switch is turned on 1 Battery not working battery damaged, battery power used up, or battery wires come off 2 Ignition switch failed switch resistance too great, or switch wires come off 3
Troubleshooting
Fuse blown
4
Bulb blown
5
Power wires broken or shorted
117
Turn signal lamps not flashing when switched on 1 Flasher damaged 2 Battery power too low 3 Bulb power capacity to great or too small Headlamp beam not changed when beam switch is operated 1 Beam switch failed 2 Bulb failed or damaged 3 High/Low beam wires shorted Horn making no sound when horn button is pushed 1 Horn button failed 2 Battery having no power 3 Horn failed 4 Power circuit shorted or having broken wire
Ignition Switch Remove the headlamp cover from the vehicle. Disconnect the headlamp.
Check the color wires for correct on-off condition as shown in the following table. /
Black/White
Black
Red
Brown
ON OFF
Beam Switch and Lighting Switch

Remove the headlamp cover. Disconnect the beam switch and lighting switch. Check the color wires for correct on-off condition as shown in the following tables.
118
Beam Switch
White
Blue
/
Blue/Yelllow
Lighting Switch /
Blue/Yellow
/
Brown/Yellow
High Beam
Black
Brown
OFF

(Central)
Low Beam
Position
ON
Turn Signal Lamp Switch

Remove the headlamp cover. Disconnect the turn signal lamp switch. Check the color wires for correct on-off condition as shown in the following table.
Dark brown
Gray
Dark green
Left
(Central)
Right
Remove the headlamp cover. Disconnect the horn button. Check the color wires for correct on-off condition as shown in the following table. Dark brown Released Pushed
Horn Button
Gray
Front Brake Lamp Switch

Remove the headlamp case.

Check the on/off condition between the green/yellow wire and black wire to see if it is as shown in the table below:
Black
Green/yellow
Released
Brake lever squeezed
119

Rear Brake Lamp Switch / Check the black and green/yellow wires of the rear brake lamp switch for correct on-off conditi on as shown in the following table. / When the brake lever is pushed, the green/yellow wire and black wire should be on and when the rear brake lever is released, they should be off.
Black / Green/yellow Rear Brake Lamp Switch
Released
Squeezed
Fuel Sensor and Fuel Meter Removal of Fuel Sensor: Remove the seat and left side cover. Disconnect the fuel sensor. Remove the fuel tank. Remove the fuel sensor.
Checking of Fuel Sensor Measure the resistance of the fuel sensor with a multimeter. Move the float of the sensor to the top and bottom position respectively to see if the resistance is changing. If yes, the fuel sensor is normal, if no, it is damaged.
Fuel Sensor
Checking of Fuel Meter Connect the fuel sensor with the power cable and turn on the ignition switch. Move the sensor float to the top position and check the function of the fuel meter. With the float on top, the fuel meter pointer should be in the FULL position, and with the float at bottom, it should be in the RESERVE and EMPTY position.

Note: This check should be made only if the battery is in good condition and full of power.
120
1

Troubleshooting
Engine Unable or Difficult to Start
Engine Performance Low at High Speeds Engine Making Unusual Noise
Vehicle Lacking Powe
Engine Performance Low at Low Speeds or Idle Speed
Control Failure

Engine Unable or Difficult to Start

Troubleshooting Clues
Possible causes
1 Check to see if the fuel has reached the carburetor No Yes
1
No fuel in fuel tank
2
Fuel cock clogged
3
Fuel pipe clogged
4
Carburetor float needle stuck
2 Remove the spark plug and check the sparks Few or no sparks Sparks normal
1
Spark plug damaged or dirty
2
Magneto failed
3
Ignition switch failed
4
Fuel sensor failed
5
Igniter failed
6
Ignition coil failed
7
High-tension cable failed
3 Check the cylinder pressure Pressure too low Pressure normal
1
Starter slipping and unable to start engine
2
Valve gap too narrow or valve having no gap at all
3
Valve guide bent
4
Cylinder head base not fitted nicely with valve
5
Cylinder and piston ring worn
6
Cylinder head gasket not tight
7
Fitting not done properly
8
Valve timing not correct
121
4 Restart the engine Ignition possible but engine still unable to get started Ignition impossible
1
Throttle opening too grea
2
Carburetor plunger fine-adjusting screw not properly turned
3
Air intake pipe leaking
4
Ignition timing not correct
5
Remove the spark plug for checking Spark plug wet Spark plug dry
1
Carburetor too full of fuel
2
Carburetor choke not opened
3
Throttle opening too wide
6
Close the choke and restart the engine.

Vehicle Lacking Power


Possible causes
1 Lift the wheels off ground and turn them by hand Unable to turn freely Able to turn freely
1
Brake not disengaged
2
Axle bearing worn or damaged
3
Axle bearing not well lubricated
4
Drive chain too tight
2 Check the tire pressure Pressure too low Pressure normal 3

Disengage the clutch when changing from idle speed to high-speed No change of speed Change of speed normal
1
Tire leaking
2
Tire valve leaking
1
Clutch slipping
2
Clutch plate worn
3
Clutch plate deformed
4 Increase the engine speed gradually No change of speed Change of speed normal
1
Fuel supply not normal
2
Carburetor choke closed
3
Air filter clogged
4
Carburetor vent clogged
5
Muffler clogged
122
5
Check the ignition timing (using the ignition timing lamp)
1CDI
CDI damaged
2
Magneto failed
Ignition timing not normal Ignition timing normal
3
Pulse generator failed
6 Check the valve gap Valve gap incorrect

Valve gap correct
1
Valve gap not correctly adjusted
2
Valve seat worn
7 Check the cylinder pressure Pressure too low

Pressure normal
1
Valve gap too narrow
2
Valve bent or stuck
3
Valve seat worn
4
Cylinder and piston ring worn
5
Cylinder gasket damaged
6
Valve timing incorrect
7
Spark plug not correctly installed
8 Check the carburetor Carburetor clogged Carburetor not clogged 9 Check the spark plug Too much carbon deposit or unusual coloring Spark plug normal 10
Take off the dipstick and check the oil level with it
1
Fuel dirty
2
Carburetor not cleaned regularly
1
Spark plug not maintained regularly
2
Incorrect thermal value of spark plug
3
Electrode gap too narrow
1
Oil level too high
2
Oil level too low
Oil level incorrect Oil level normal
3
Oil not clean
1 1 Check the engine for overheating Overheated Not overheated
1
Oil pipe clogged
2
Oil pump not working properly
123
1 2 Check the engine for overheating Overheated Not overheated
1
Too much carbon deposit in combustion chamber
2
Incorrect type of fuel being used
3
Clutch slipping
4
Air-fuel ratio too high
5
Oil level too high
13 Ride the vehicle at high speeds Engine giving off explosive noise No explosive noise Possible causes
1
Piston and cylinder worn
2
Too much carbon deposit in combustion chamber
3
Incorrect type of fuel being used
4
Ignition too early

Engine Performance Low at Low Speeds and Idle Speed


Possible causes
1
Check the ignition timing and valve gap Incorrect Correct
1C DI
CDI failed
2
Magneto failed
3
Sensor failed
4
Valve gap too narrow
2 Check the carburetor for leaking Carburetor leaking No leaking
1
Carburetor packing ring deformed
2
Carburetor disconnected
3
Packing ring and gasket broken
3 Check the spark plug for sparking Too few or no sparks Sparks normal
1
Spark plug damaged
2
Magneto failed
3
4CDI
CDI failed
5
Sensor failed
6
7
Spark plug cap defected
8
Power supply incorrectly wired or shorted
124

Low Engine Performance at High Speed
Possible causes
1
Check the ignition timing and valve gap Incorrect Correct
1
Magneto failed
2CDI
CDI failed
3
Sensor failed
4
Valve gap incorrect
2 Remove the carburetor fuel pipe Fuel flow rate restricted Fuel able to flow freely
1
Fuel tank getting empty
2
Fuel tank cap vent blocked
3
Fuel supply from fuel tank to carburetor blocked
4
Fuel cock clogged
5
Fuel filter clogged
3 Check the carburetor Carburetor clogged

Carburetor not clogged
1
Float needle clogged
2
Float fuel level too low
3
Carburetor orifice clogged
4
Float stuck
Check the spark plug for parking Sparking not normal Sparking normal
1
Magneto failed
2CDI
CDI failed
3
Sensor failed
4
5
6
Spark plug cap defected
7
Spark plug damaged
8
Power supply circuit shorted
125

Engine Making Unusual Noise
Possible causes
1
Valve making unusual noise
1
Valve gap too wide
2
Valve worn
2
Piston colliding with cylinder
1
Piston and cylinder block worn
2
Piston pin and conrod small end worn
3
Crank conrod big end worn
3
Bearing making unusual noise
1
Crank conrod bearing damaged
2
Camshaft bearing worn
Clutch making unusual noise due to vibration
1
Clutch buffer spring weak
Driving and driven gears making unusual noise
1
Gear not precisely machined
Troubleshooting Clues Control Trouble
Possible causes
1
Steering difficult
1
Steering tightness adjusting nut tightened too much
2
Steering bearing race or ball worn
2
Wheels wobbling
1
Axle bearing having too much free play
2
Wheel rim deformed
3
Wheel rim not correctly installed or adjusted
4
Rear fork shock absorbing sleeve seriously worn
5
Frame deformed
6
Drive chain not correctly adjusted
7
Axle nut too loose
8
126
Tire pressure too low
3
Vehicle running to one side during travel
1
Shock absorbers not balanced
2
Steering bearing damaged
3
Front fork bent
4
Frame bent
5
Front and rear wheels not lined up
127

RT200 5维修手册

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RT200 5维修手册

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Foreword

14 Ignition and Electric Starting System 15 Switches 16 Troubleshooting

Major Technical Data

Standard Torque Value Special-purpose Tools

Control Cables and Power Cables

Major Technical Data

Two-way composite sleeve

Polyurethane foam filtered Intake valve

Valve gap (in cool state)

Transmission gear ratio Transmission

Clutch Gearbox Initial reduction gear ratio

Special-purpose Tools Description

Reference Section Number

6mm hollow wrench Clutch holder

Roller ball base fixture Valve guide tube diameter enlarger

Reference Section Number

Reference Section Number

Reference Section Number

Installation of the control cables and power cables

Engine Lubrication System

Lubrication Position Notes to Maintenance

Checking of Oil Level

Oil gallery and throttle opening or filter are clogged; 3

Checking of Oil Level

Cleaning of Oil Filter

Rear brake lever Brake pedal pivot point

Rolling ball bearing

Checks and Adjustments

Recommended spark plug model Spark plug gap Valve gap

D8RTC 0.6~0.7mm 0.08mm0.02 0.08mm0.02 15 11500100r/min 2~6mm 1500150r/min 1274kpa147kpa

Check the gasket for tightness

and valve rod with a feeler gauge.

Intake valve gap: 0.06mm 0.08mm Exhaust valve gap: 0.08mm

Check the valve gap again.

Remove the upper watch hole cover;

Free distance: 2~6mm

Carburetor Idle Speed

Testing Cylinder Pressure 4~6

1274147kpa Cylinder pressure: 1274147Kpa

Upper limit Lower limit

Rear brake pedal

Brake Lamp Switch 20mm

Note: Do not turn the switch body.

Free distance of Clutch Lever

Checking the front fork

Tire Pressure 225kpa 280kpa

Bolts, Nuts and Fasteners

Float (Float Needle) Nozzle Adjustment of Float Height Installation of Throttle

Removal of Carburetor Removal of Throttle

Installation of Carburetor Adjustment of Locating Screw

No fuel in fuel tank;

Engine idle speed instable

Removal of Fuel Tank

Fuel tank bolt

Fuel level sensor

Air filter screw

Fuel needle Clip

Idle speed fine-adjusting screw

Idle speed fine-adjusting screw

Reassembly of Throttle Plunger

Third ring groove

Standard position: the 3 rd ring groove

Adjustment of Locating Screw 7/4