Spring Preload & Race Sag Overview

Setting the proper race sag (ride height) is important for competition use. Race sag refers to the
amount of rear wheel travel used by your bike at rest, ready to ride, with you on the seat. As a
general rule of thumb, the race sag dimension should be about one-third of the maximum travel.
Ride height is changed by adjusting the rear suspension spring pre-load.

Spring Preload & Race Sag Adjustment

The following adjustment procedure establishes the correct starting point for any suspension
tuning - the proper rear spring preload adjustment for your specific needs. Your bike should be at
normal racing weight, including fuel and engine oil. You should wear all your normal protective
gear. To calculate the proper adjustment, it's necessary to measure between two fixed points -
from the top of the most rearward point of the sub-frame down to the machined edge at the rear
of the swing-arm, for three different situations:

1. Unloaded (without rider): Bike on a stand with rear suspension fully extended
2. Loaded - with rider: Bike on the ground
3. Loaded - without rider: Bike on the ground

Calculate the Race Sag Dimension

Support your bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the ground. Measure the "loaded - with rider"
and "unloaded" dimensions. Remove the stand, with two helpers available, sit as far forward as
possible on the seat, wearing all your protective gear. Ask one helper to steady your bike
perfectly upright so you can put both feet on the pegs. Bounce your weight on the seat a couple
times to help the suspension overcome any sticking action and settle to a good reference point.
Ask the other helper to measure the "loaded - with rider" dimension.

To calculate the race sag dimension, subtract the "loaded - with rider" dimension from the
"unloaded" dimension.

Unloaded 671 mm (26.4")

Loaded with rider - 568 mm (22.4")
Race Sag = 103 mm (4.0")
Adjust spring preload as necessary to obtain the desired handling results:

• Decreasing the race sag dimension (i.e. 98 mm, 3.9") improves turning ability for tight
terrain at the cost of slightly reduced straight line stability.
• Increasing the race sag dimension (i.e. 108 mm, 4.3") may improve stability on faster
terrain with less turns, but will reduce turning performance slightly and may upset the
balance between the front and rear suspension, producing a harsher ride. This will
happen if the adjustment shifts the effective wheel travel toward the more progressive
end of its range.

The ideal race sag (ride height) is 103 mm. This is the center of the recommended 100-105 mm
range. Individual preference may produce a race sag from 85-115 mm. It is important to know
your ideal race sag measurement before changing spring preload. Different abilities, riding
styles, and measuring techniques will vary the ideal race sag among individual riders.

Calculate the Free Sag Dimension

Free sag indicates the distance the rear suspension should sag from the weight of the sprung
portion of your bike. To calculate the free sag dimension, subtract the "loaded - without rider"
dimension from the "unloaded" dimension. Do this with your bike set at the standard race sag.

Unloaded 671 mm (26.4")

Loaded w/o rider - 651 mm (25.6")
Free Sag = 20 mm (0.8")

With the spring preload set to obtain the proper race sag, the rear suspension should sag 10 to
25 mm (0.39 to 0.98"). If the rear of your bike sags less than 25 mm (0.98") from its own weight,
the spring is too stiff for your weight. It's not compressed enough, even though you have the
proper race sag adjustment. As a result, the rear suspension will not extend as far as it should.
Spring Rate

If you are lighter or heavier than the average rider and cannot set the proper ride height without
altering the correct spring preload, consider an aftermarket spring.

A spring that is too soft for your weight forces you to add excessive spring preload to get the right
race sag and, as a result, the rear end is raised. This can cause the rear wheel to unload too
much in the air and top out as travel rebounds. The rear end may top out from light braking, or
kick sideways over lips and square-edged terrain. It may even top out when you dismount your
XR.

Because of the great absorption quality of the shock bumper rubber, it may be difficult for you to
notice when your XR's suspension is bottoming out. Some riders may think the damping or
perhaps the leverage ratio is too harsh and in reality, the problem is most likely insufficient spring
preload or a spring that is too soft. Either situation prevents utilizing the full travel.

Keep in mind that a properly adjusted suspension system may bottom slightly every few minutes
at full speed. Adjusting the suspension to avoid this occasional bottoming may cost more in
overall suspension performance than it is worth.

A spring that is too firm for your weight will not allow the rear tire to hook up under acceleration
and it will pass more bumps on to you.

Suspension Adjustments for Specific Terrain - SOFT SURFACE (Sandy, Loamy)

Typically large rolling bumps will develop which may require an over all stiffer setting.

On soft ground, sand, and especially mud, consider increasing compression damping front and
rear. Sand often requires a bit more rebound damping to minimize rear end kick. Although sand
bumps are usually larger, there's more distance between them, giving the shock more time to
recover. You may want the front suspension a little stiffer for sand tracks to help keep the front
end up and improve straight-line stability.

In a muddy event, stiffer aftermarket springs front and rear may help, especially if you are heavier
than the average rider. Your XR may be under-sprung because of the added weight of the
clinging mud. This additional weight may compress the suspension too much and affect traction.

Front Suspension - SOFT SURFACE

• Test harder compression damping in one-click increments

• Test harder rebound damping in one-click increments
• Increase spring preload in 1½ mm increments
• Raise the oil level by adding oil in each fork leg in 5 mm increments

Rear Suspension - SOFT SURFACE

• Decrease race sag (by increasing spring preload) in 5 mm increments. Usually, one
complete turn of the spring adjuster nut will produce a 5-6 mm change in race sag.
• Test harder rebound damping with each increase in spring preload, in one-click
increments.
 • Test harder compression damping in one-click increments.

Suspension Adjustments for Specific Terrain - HARD SURFACE

On harder ground you may want to decrease compression damping. When an overall softer
setting is achieved, the fork may have a tendency to bottom on jump landings. If this occurs,
consider raising the fork oil level to make the end of fork travel more progressive so it resists
bottoming.

Front Suspension - HARD SURFACE

• Test softer compression damping in one-click increments

• Test softer rebound damping in one-click increments
• Check for dirt in the dust seals
• Check the fork oil for contamination
• Check fork alignment, following proper front wheel installation procedure
• Check for air in the fork legs. Release accumulated air pressure by opening the air bleed
screw on each fork cap.

Rear Suspension - HARD SURFACE

• Set ideal race sag. Avoid making a major change in race sag in this situation.
• To reduce the impact of small bumps - test softer compression damping in one-click
increments.
• To better absorb the impact of big jump landings - test one-click harder compression
damping. If necessary, test two-clicks harder compression damping, followed by a ½ turn
increase in spring preload. Repeat if necessary.
• To stabilize the recovery of the rear wheel after jump landings (reduce a spongy feel) -
test harder rebound damping in one-click increments.