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Tuni/Knit House Sock Pattern

Greetings from Tuni C. Weaver! Welcome to my 2 nd (freebie) PDF pattern. It is tricky, but I tried to make it clear.

This is all my original work and I consider all of my pictures and descriptions copyrighted.

Skills that will be illustrated

Shaping techniques in Tunisian crochet.

Folding over the Tunisian fabric and sealing up the side edges, while doing increases or decreases to create sock toes and sock heels

Pulling up loops from the edge of the fabric, then knitting from them

Materials Needed

Worsted weight yarn

G/US 6/4.0 mm crochet hook

US 3/3.25 mm knitting needles

Aside

I have given instructions for my foot (which measures 21.0 cm in diameter around the ball of my foot) and my Tunisian gauge (which is 1.6 stitches/cm).

To adjust the width of the sock, do a test swatch and, instead of 16 stitches, start the sock with: (# ) = 0.95 x (diameter/2) x (your gauge)

The length measurement unit cancels out, so you can use inches and stitches/inch instead of cm and stitches/cm, if you wish.

Please note: I do NOT recommend changing hook size in order to adjust your gauge to mine.

if you wish.  Please note: I do NOT recommend changing hook size in order to

Overview of Steps Use Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) to create a sock toe, sole and heel by:

1. Creating a 16-stitch row of TSS (the 16 can vary for different widths/gauges)

2. Decreasing on both sides until you have half of the stitches you started with (8)

3. Folding the fabric and sealing the fabric sides as you do increases, to make the toe

4. After sealing the early work, continuing on with less frequent increases, to create the sole

5. Just before the sole meets the middle of the arch, doing a couple of consecutive increases to mark the spot, then decreasing every subsequent row down to eight (8) stitches, to start the heel

6. Sealing the sides and increasing the ends of the rows to make the 2 nd part of the heel

7. Continuing the heel decreases until they meet and binding off the end

Use knit rib for the rest of the sock:

8. Pull loops from the open end of the toe

9. Knit a rectangle of rib until you have two (2) rows for every row of Tunisian crochet before the heel join

10. Continue to knit with increases in every row until you have two (2) more rows for every row of Tunisian crochet above the heel join

11. Use the same yarn to pull up loops at the stub end of the heel

12. Knit 1 x 1 ribbing continuously (in-the-round) around the top of the sock

Finishing:

13. Bind the top of the sock off

14. Whip stitch the sides of the knit rib to the Tunisian crochet

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the sock Finishing: 13. Bind the top of the sock off 14. Whip stitch the sides
Detailed Steps Starting the toe: 1. Chain 16 and pull up 16 loops to start.

Detailed Steps

Starting the toe:

1. Chain 16 and pull up 16 loops to start.

2. Do 3 rows of Tunisian Simple Stitch

(TSS) of 16 stitches per row.

Be careful to leave the ends neat, because you'll be working into them later.

3. From here, do decreases in each row.

For each decrease, grab two (2) loops instead of one during the return pass.

I recommend locating your decreases three (3) stitches from each edge.

4. Continue decreasing until you are down to eight (8) stitches per row (or half the number

that you started with).

Do another 8-stitch row, followed by the next return pass up until the 2nd to last stitch.

(This completes the first part of the toe, you’ll start folding and sealing the fabric next.)

toe, you ’ll start folding and sealing the fabric next.) 5. Folding the 1st corner: You

5. Folding the 1st corner:

You start with two (2) loops on the hook,

as shown in Pic 1.

Twist the hook around and hook the chain that’s shown on the green hook in Pic 2, then pull a loop through everything on the hook.

(You should enter the fabric from the good side, as shown by the green hook.)

6. As you start the forward pass,

do an increase at the edge, by hooking under an edge bar and pulling up another loop.

Pic 3 shows this edge bar on the green hook, while the three (3) red lines point to the next three (3) front vertical bars beyond the edge stitch.

Please notice that the 1 st one is easy to miss and to skip.

three (3) front vertical bars beyond the edge stitch. Please notice that the 1 s t

7.

Next, do a standard forward pass of TSS up until just before the last stitch.

8. Folding the 2nd corner:

As you do the last stitch, hook the usual end threads.

Then continue on, twisting to hook under the chain face that’s beyond the one underneath the working row.

Pic 4 shows the chain face with the green hook. You’ll need to twist in from the good side of the fabric like the green hook does.

from the good side of the fabric like the green hook does. 9. Do another increase

9. Do another increase on this side by pulling an extra loop through the outer bar.

Pic 5 shows the result of starting the fold and doing an increase on both sides.

10. Continue to do increases at both

edges and seal up both sides until you are back to 16 stitches per row (or the number that you started with).

(Hint: sometimes it's tough to find the "next" chain face down at the end of the forward post, because it looks like its 2

at the end of the forward post, because it looks like its 2 And multicolored yarn

And

multicolored yarn helps a

lot.)

11. Continue to seal up the sides until you run out of back fabric to seal up. See Pic 6 for how this should look.

That finishes the toe--now you are ready to continue on and TSS the rest of the sole.

12. For the next part of the sole, do

increases in every 4th row until you reach the highest part of foot’s arch.

Do the increases between the 3 rd and 4 th stitches from each end.

To do the increases:

Work from the back of the fabric and pull the back vertical bar backward and finish by pulling a loop through it (this is a Reverse Stitch).

Next, return to the front of the fabric and use the matching front vertical bar to do a single Simple stitch.

matching front vertical bar to do a single Simple stitch. 13. When you reach the arch,

13. When you reach the arch, do two (2) consecutive rows of increases to mark the spot.

You are about to start on the heel.

14. Next, do a forward pass with no

increases and record the number of stitches in the row (this will vary, depending on the length of your foot).

You'll be returning to this number of stitches again by the end of the heel.

15. So next, start the decreases that form the

first part of the heel.

You use the same technique as for the first part of the toe, except this time you’re starting out with more stitches and decreasing down to the same eight (8) stitches.

stitches and decreasing down to the same eight (8) stitches. So the heel will be bigger
stitches and decreasing down to the same eight (8) stitches. So the heel will be bigger
stitches and decreasing down to the same eight (8) stitches. So the heel will be bigger

So

the heel will be bigger than the toe, but

otherwise very similar.

Once the first part of the heel is done, the work should resemble Pic 7.

While you’re here, it’s a really good idea to check the length of the sole. It should stretch slightly to look like Pic 8.

16. Now fold both corners and increase

back up to your recorded number or stitches while sealing the sides, in the same manner as for the second part of the toe.

17. To make the back of the rest of the heel

(the part on the back of the ankle, use the

same technique again to make consecutive decreases, until the decreases meet.

Do a final Tunisian bind-off row on the top.

After binding off, leave a long yarn tail to whip stitchthe knit work to the Tunisian crochet.

When you're done, the work should resemble Pic 9.

The foot in question should probably try it on to make sure it does.

18. Switching to the knit part: Pull loops onto your Tunisian hook at the toe

18. Switching to the knit part:

Pull loops onto your Tunisian hook at the toe end of the work.

Once you have them, transfer them to a US 3/ 3.25 mm knitting needle.

If you started with 16 stitches and

include the first side loop and a transition loop, you should end up with the 19 loops shown in Pic 10.

(Since this is a large increase from 16 stitches,

it creates a roomy house sock, rather than one intended to fit inside of a shoe.)

19. After you've pulled the loops, knit

a rectangle of 2x1 ribbing from them.

For 19 loops, do K/PPK/PPK/PPK/PPK/PPK/PPK on the back side and do K/KKP/KKP/KKP/KKP/KKP/KKK on the front side.

At this point, your work should look something like Pic 11.

this point, your work should look something like Pic 11 . 20. Count the number of

20. Count the number of chain faces

left on the Tunisian edge before the

heel join and record this number.

Later you will be sewing every two (2) rows of knit work to each chain face.

If doing knit stitches at the end of each

row on both sides (as I recommend), the edge pattern should repeat every 2 nd row, making it easy to count rows of two.

This is shown in Pic 12.

So

make enough rows of rectangular ribbing to sew two (2) knit rows to every Tunisian row before the join.

for Step 22, you want to

rows of rectangular ribbing to sew two (2) knit rows to every Tunisian row before the

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21. Next, count and record the number of edge chain faces beyond the join. You will need 2x this number of knit rows with increases in them.

Do an invisible increase in the middle of the bars of knit on alternate rows (each time the front of the fabric faces you).

Start by doing the 2 outer bars, then do the next 2 going inward, then the last 2. This should produce a 3 x 1 rib all the way across.

22. Repeat this pattern of increases until you have two (2) rows of knit ribbing for every

additional row of Tunisian fabric.

By then, the knit fabric should resemble Pic 13, with each rib spreading wider as it goes.

23. Do the last row on the front side by alternating knit and purl stitches, without increases.

wider as it goes. 23. Do the last row on the front side by alternating knit
24. Next, continue on with the same yarn and pull up loops from the stub

24. Next, continue on with the

same yarn and pull up loops from the stub end of the heel.

You’ll need an even total number of stitches to make the 1x1 band of rib at the top of the sock, so pull an odd number of loops if you had an odd number of knit stitches.

25. Once the loops are ready, use the same yarn to continue the 1x1 rib in the round.

After a few rows of 1x1 ribbing your work should resemble Pic 14.

(This work was done on two (2) circular needles, but DPNs are also good.)

26. Continue with 1x1 rib until you

have around ½ inch (about 1 1/4 cm) then bind off the work very loosely or use “Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off” from http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09.FEATjssbo.php

Again, you should leave a long yarn tail for the other seam between the knit and Tunisian crochet parts.

27. The sock is almost finished.

Its time to whip stitch the parts together, as shown in the Extra Pic.

28. When you are done, weave in

any loose ends and

Congratulations!!

Thats all there is to it.

in the Extra Pic . 28. When you are done, weave in any loose ends and