Constructing Japanese Clothing

Layout for Men's Hakama on 3 yards of 45" wide fabric:

Constructing Hakama:

Hem the bottoms of the legs by folding the raw edges twice to the inside and sewing (or you can do this after the hakama are complete)

Sew one side of the square-shaped crotch gore to the slit of one leg, lining the corner up with the end of the slit. Remember to match right sides together. Don't sew all the way to the corners of the square. Sew the adjacent side of the crotch gore to the other side of the slit on the same leg. You'll need to twist the fabric around to get it to work.

Sew a third side of the crotch gore to the slit on the other pantleg. Make sure that the larger parts of the legs are on adjacent sides. Sew the remaining side of the crotch gore. Then sew the legs to each other the rest of the way for the center front and center back seams. (Note: be careful you are sewing the two fronts together and the two backs together and not just sewing the front to the back of the same leg.)

Sew each leg into a tube along the outside edge, stopping about 15 inches from the top. You will need to fold each leg in half around the other leg to sew. On the back (smaller side), fold the fabric on either side of the crotch seam into one huge pleat and pin in place. The folds from the two sides' pleats should just meet at the center seam on the outside of the hakama. Fold in the edges of the back: Measure your waist where the hakama will tie (under your gut to show how well-fed you are). Divide that number by two and subtract 5 inches. Call that number W. Fold the sides of the back in until the width equals W (if the back is already narrower than W, fold in just enough that the selvedge won't show). Sew across the top of the back pleat to hold it in place while you work on the front. If you have big flaps of fabric folded in, you may want to tack them down with a few hand-stitches as well. On the front, fold the edges in first, about as much as you did for the back and pin in place. Measure the width of the front pieces after the edges are folded in and call it F. I will give instructions for making 3 pleats per side. Divide F by 18 and call that number P. Use pins to mark points along the top of the front pants in increments of P, measuring out from the center seam. There should be 9 pins on either side of the center seam. With the fabric lying right side up and counting out from the center, fold the fabric so pin 2 meets the center seam. Next fold pin 5 in to line up with pin 3. Then fold pin 8 in to line up with pin 6. Pin pleats in place and repeat on the other side. Sew across the top of the front pleats to hold them in place. For each tie, sew the ends into tubes, leaving enough of the tie unsewn in the middle to attach

it to the hakama. Clip corners, turn right-side out and press. Sew the front tie to the outside of the front, right sides together. Fold the tie up and around the raw edges to the inside, turning the raw edge of the tie under so the fold of the fabric meets the seam where the front of the tie was sewn. Hand-stitch the tie in place. Add extra stitches at the corner where the tie meets the hakama leg because it will get a lot of stress. Do the same with the back tie as you did with the front..

Congratulations, you're done.... try them on!!

Constructing Japanese Clothing

Women's Hakama (Kamakura, informal Heian)
Always red. Wear over a white kosode and tie them very high on the waist. There is only one tie on women's hakama. The tie connects the front and back pieces on the left side (with a slight gap between them) and ties in a bow on the right. If you have enough fabric, the front end of the tie should wrap all the way around your waist before tying to the back in a big bow on the right side. You may optionally wear uchigi and an Uwagi over top. Adjust leg length so you won't trip over the hakama - they should just brush the top of the foot.

Layout for Women's Hakama on 4.5 yards of 45" wide fabric:

Layout for Women's Hakama on 3.5 yards of 60" wide fabric:

Nagabakama (Women's Long Hakama):

Always red. Wear over a white kosode. Wear over a white kosode and tie them very high on the waist. There is only one tie on women's hakama. The tie connects the front and back pieces on the left side (with a slight gap between them) and ties in a bow on the right. If you have enough fabric, the front end of the tie should wrap all the way around your waist before tying to the back in a big bow on the right side. The nagabakama will drag on the ground behind and you'll have to walk on the pants legs. Hitoe, multiple Uchigi, and Uwagi go over top. Karaginu and Mo are added for formal situations.

Layout for Nagabakama on 5.25 yards of 45" wide fabric:

Layout for Nagabakama on 3.7 yards of 60" wide fabric:

Constructing Women's Hakama or Nagabakama:

Attach leg pieces to each long side of an inner leg piece, matching them up at the bottoms. Repeat for other inner leg piece. (NOTE: Try to put selvedges on the outsides of the leg pieces so you won't have to finish them later.) Hem the bottoms of the legs by folding the raw edges twice to the inside and sewing (or you can do this after the hakama are complete) Place the two U-shapes formed by the leg pieces together, right sides facing in. Sew them together along the inside of the U. This will be the crotch seam, so you may want to sew it twice or serge the edges to prevent it from splitting open. Clip the corners. Sew each leg together along the outside edge, stopping about 16 -18 inches from the top (the side opening should come to just above your knee). You will need to fold each leg in half around the other leg to sew. Calculate the finished width for the front and back panels by taking 1/2 your waist measurement and subtracting 2.5 inches (Note: this is the amount of the gap between the front and back panels - if you wish to have a larger gap, use a larger number). Pin the front in 6 knife pleats: 3 pleats on either side of the center seam, all pointing towards the center seam. Adjust the pleat depths so that the total width matches your calculation.

Sew across all the pleats to hold them. If the outside edges are raw or ugly, you will also want to turn them to the inside and stitch them in place. Pin and sew the back into six pleats in the same manner as the front. Ideally the tie should be long enough to go around your waist twice with at least 30" at either end to make a bow. You can piece several lengths of fabric together to make the total length. If you don't have enough fabric even with piecing, you can attach the tie so the free ends are both about the same length and tie the ties directly together, without wrapping the front tie around. If you have enough fabric for the tie that wraps around twice, measure the total length of the tie and subtract 2 x (your waist measurement) from that. Divide that number in half (it should be greater than 30"). Mark that distance from one end of the tie with a pin. Line the pin on the tie up with the right side of the back piece. Sew the upper edge of the tie to the back pleats of the hakama, right sides together. Allow at least 2.5 inches of tie between the back and the front pieces (the same number as you used to calculate the finished width of the panels) Wrap the tie around to the front and sew the upper edge of it to the front pleats, right sides together. Fold the tie up, over the raw edges of the front and back pleats. Turn under 1/2 inch seam allowance and fold the edge to the inside so it meets the seamline from sewing the ties on. Handsew the tie to the inside of the hakama to hide the raw edges. Handsew the two edges together on the section of the tie between the front and back. Add some extra reinforcing stitches where the edges of the hakama meet the ties. Handsew the remaining length of the ties in a tube, stopping about 15 inches from the end. The ends of the ties should be left flat so they will make wide tails hanging down from the bow. Turn under the raw edges of the ends on all 3 sides and sew them down.

Constructing Japanese Clothing

Layout for Kosode on 5 yds of 45" wide fabric:

Layout for Hitoe on 5 yds of 45" wide fabric:

Constructing Kimono (Garments that hang from the shoulder and have a cross-wrapped collar):

1. Mark the the shoulder fold on the edges of each body and sleeve piece with chalk or pins (fold piece in half to find midpoint).

 Sew the two body pieces together lengthwise, stopping about 2 inches before the shoulder fold.

Attach the sleeves to the body, matching the marks for the shoulder fold. Remember to stop the seams if the bottoms of the sleeves should be unattached for the garment you're making. (NOTE: if the sleeves have selvedge edges, place them towards the wrist so you don't have to finish them later)

Attach one overlap piece to the front of one body piece. Do the same on the other side. (NOTE: if the overlaps have selvedges, place them away from the body so you don't have to finish those edges later) Pictures from here on with only depict half the body, with the other half greyed. Do everything on both sides so the garment stays symmetrical.

Figure out where you want the collar to wrap to on your body. This will usually be about at where your hip bone sticks out. Measure from your shoulder to your hip bone (on the same side of your body). Measure the same amount down from the top of the overlap piece and mark the endpoint "A".

Lay your fabric on a flat surface, right side up. From the point where the back seam stops, draw a 2" line out from the back seam towards the sleeve. Now draw a line from that point straight down 4". Connect that point to "A" with a straight line. Cut out the striped area, leaving 1/2 inch seam allowance and slightly curving the corners. (NOTE: Do not lift the fabric up after you cut this out - leave it on the same surface until after you have pinned the collar on or the diagonal part of the collar will stretch)

Figure out how wide you want your collar to be (usually 2-5" wide with wider collars on outer layers). Multiply that by 3 and add 1/2 inch for seam allowance (i.e. for a 3" wide collar (3"*3)=9 + .5"=9.5"). Cut your collar piece down to that width. On an ironing board, fold one long edge of the collar up one collar-width (3" in the above example) and press. Fold the collar up one collar-width again in the same direction. There should be a 1/2 inch edge sticking out for seam allowance.

Find the midpoint of the collar and mark it on the seam allowance. Place the collar on the kimono without turning it over. Match the center of the collar to the back center seam of the kimono. The seam allowance of the collar should meet the seam allowance of the neckline.

Pin the collar to the back of the neckline, down the side and down the diagonal line to "A". Let the excess collar hang free. The corners are tricky allow the seam allowance of the collar to bunch up so you can make it around the corner. Do the same on the other side. (NOTE: If the overlaps did not have selvedges, fold the edge over twice before pinning the collar) (Once the collar is pinned on, it is now safe to pick up your kimono.)

Sew the collar to the body, being careful not to accidentally catch the folded part of the collar. Smooth the fabric as you sew the corners so it doesn't bunch under the sewing. It can bunch as much

as it wants on the fabric just on either side of the seam, just not in the seam itself. After sewing the collar, clip the seam allowances at the corners to release the bunching and stretching.

To finish the ends of the collar, leave the first fold of the collar in place but fold the collar inside out along the line of the second fold. Fold the seam allowance towards the collar. Sew a seam directly across them (NOT angled) starting from point "A" where they meet the overlap. Cut off the excess and clip off the corner. Turn right side out. Once you turn the ends right side out, you'll notice that the folded part of the collar will naturally flip to the inside. Tuck the seam allowances in and handsew the fold of the collar along the seam with a blind stitch. Fold the whole kimono at the shoulder and sew the body pieces together along the side seams, then the sleeves together at the bottom. This will be two separate seams if the bottoms of the sleeves are unattached (as for hitoe). Also, if the sleeve bottoms are unattached, stop the side seams approximately where the sleeves would start if they were attached. For any raw edges (openings of sleeves or body, bottom hem) turn twice and hand-sew using a blind stitch. If you did not french seam, finish inside raw selvedges with a machine zig-zag, serger, or whip stitch.

Japanese Outfits:
This page lists merely a small selection of very common outfits that make good beginner garb. Please note that most of the links are to other sites; you'll have to use your "Back" button to return after viewing them. Please see the Costume References page for some other sites with additional clothing ideas for the Japanese persona. The terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See the Japanese Historical Eras reference page.

Some Men's Outfits:

* Go to Anthony J. Bryant's Costume Page and click "Men's Outfits" on the left-hand menu to see additional outfits* Era Nara Heian Kamakura Muromachi Momoyama Kariginu* Dobuku Formal Noble Ho Ko-Noshi Kariginu Hitatare Kataginu Informal Noble Samurai Hitatare* Kariginu Retainer Peasant

*With the decline of the Court during the Kamakura era, Formal occasions were less common. Samurai garb started out as lower class but became higher class towards the end of the period.

Some Women's Outfits:

Era Nara KaraginuMo Kamakura Uwagi Muromachi Heian Momoyama Koshimaki Utsutsuginu and Uwagi Kosode and Hakama Uchikake Uchikake Formal Noble Informal Noble Samuraiclass Servant/Merchant Peasant Class

shibiradatsumono mobakama yumaki

Hoeki no Ho

Hachijou Tadamoto's Ho page (Babelfish Translation) Garments: Kosode, sashinuki (pants), Hoeki no Ho (top)

Noshi and Ko-Noshi

Hachijou Tadamoto's Noshi page (Babelfish Translation)

Some other pages:

http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/1-4.html http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/1-5.html Patterns http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/jisaku.html Garments: Kosode, sashinuki (pants), noshi or ko-noshi (top)

Kariginu and Hanjiri (boy's version)

The terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See the Japanese Historical Eras reference page.

Garments: Kosode, kukuri-bakama (pants), kariginu (top) Good colors: black, white, bright yellow, pink, bright orange, bright orangey red. Kukuribakama may match the Kariginu or be white. Higher-ranking men should have brocade fabric, and the color of the kariginu may match their rank (light or dark blue, light or dark green).

Hitatare
The terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See the Japanese Historical Eras reference page.

Military wear from late Heian through Momoyama, typical "Samurai" garb, lower class in Heian and Kamakura, upper class in Muromachi and Momoyama http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/1-6.html

Garments: Kosode, hakama (pants), hitatare (top) Good fabrics: the hakama fabric must be stiff or the pants will look like a flowy skirt. Later period hitatare were "louder" than earlier hitatare. In the Muromachi and Momoyama period fabrics were commonly decorated with geometric patterns, horizontal stripes, repeats of figures (bamboo or maple leaves, dragonflies, hexagons, etc) gold leaf, and embroidery. Late period lower class sometimes wore the kosode and hakama without the hitatare.

Kataginu (less formal/lower class for Muromachi and Momoyama):

Garments: Kosode, hakama (pants), kataginu (top) Similar to Hitatare. Kataginu and hakama should match.

Dobuku (Informal upper class Muromachi & Momoyama):

Garments: Kosode, hakama (pants), dobuku (jacket) Similar to hitatare but dobuku is upper garment instead of hitatare top. Dobuku (also spelled dofuku, dohbuku) were usually made of expensive imported fabrics such as Chinese brocades and European wools.

Karaginu-mo
The terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See the Japanese Historical Eras reference page.

Formal Heian wear. The first picture is actually a ceremonial garment that only would have been used a state ceremonies by the Empress or someone else important. The Karaginu is a "Chinese short jacket" that you can tell is not one of the usual layers by its collar that is not wrapped and not caught in an obi like the other layers. The mo is the elaborately embroidered white train that flows in the back.

http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/5-3.html Pictures of Heian re-enactors:

http://www.geocities.co.jp/HeartLand-Icho/9109/off-index.html Garments: (Kosode, nagabakama, hitoe, utsutsuginu, uchiginu, uwagi, karaginu, mo) The colors of the layers were very important and ideally should match the season. Some of the many layers were faked by making one kimono body with up to 5 sleeves, collars, overlaps, and hemlines attached (the utsutusginu). Karaginu and mo were only worn by very high ranking ladies and for ceremonial events.

Uwagi
The terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See the Japanese Historical Eras reference page.

Upper class Heian and Kamakura women's wear. The first two pictures, with their many layers, is Heian semiformal wear. Note that it is essentially the same as Karaginu Mo without the Karaginu (short jacket) and mo (white train). Informal occasions and lower ranks called for fewer layers, such as the two pictures to the right.

By the Kamakura era, there were some subtle changes. Very formal dress was without hakama (as you see on the left) and semiformal and informal dress was essentially the

informal dress of the Heian era with the nagabakama shortened to a walk-able length. It was also more acceptable to wear a Kosode and Hakama without Uwagi. Garments: kosode, nagabakama or women's hakama, hitoe, optional utsutsuginu and/or uchiginu, uwagi

Kosode and Hakama

The terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See the Japanese Historical Eras reference page.

similar to outfits for female dancers and shrine maidens

kosode (top) and women's hakama (pants) Good fabrics: Stiff, opaque silk or linen. Top was almost always white and hakama were almost always red. Was also common to have alternating red and white layers on the top, which can be faked by adding fake red & white collars to the kosode.

Shibiradatsumono
Commoner in everyday wear: kosode and shibiradatsumono (=wrapping skirt).<BR< TD>

1sage-gami 2kosode 3shibiradatsu-mono

Mobakama
A woman in everyday wear; Kosode and Mobakama (=wrapping skirt).<BR<
TD>

1sage-gami 2kosode 3uwazashi-fukuro 4mo-bakama 5obuto

Yumaki
A woman in everyday wear, kosode and yumaki (=light wrapping skirt).<BR< TD>

1sage-gami 2katabira 3yumaki

Uchikake
The terms Heian, Kamakura, Muromachi, Momoyama refer to historical eras. See the Japanese Historical Eras reference page.

Middle and upper class (Samurai class) wear for the Muromachi and Momoyama eras. The uchikake (top robe) grew increasingly fancier towards the end of period and could be brocade fabric, dyed with shibori, with applied gold foil and silk embroidery. Garments: Multiple Kosodes, Uchikake

Koshimaki

A summer version of the Uchikake that became fashionable in the Momoyama era where the top layer is tied tightly around the hips and then allowed to fall off the shoulders until it makes an artificially stiff "bustle" effect.