Ritu Kumar PROFILE In the late 1960s India was going through profound changes; plastics had replaced

mud, brass and silver; factory produced papers and woods took the place of sophisticated handicrafts and nylons displaced an ancient heritage of cotton and silk. It was not only a battle between tradition and modernity; it was also a confrontation of lifestyles and values. During this time, a small group who had benefited from unique opportunities of study and travel began to see the depth of the craft and design heritage of their own country. They discovered that India was a reservoir of delicate skills. In an attempt to merge their international experiences together with the skills of their people, they became aware that contemporary designers must revitalize their own roots and identity. This was essential to take Indian creativity out into the world in such a way that benefited both craftsmen and the modern consumer. This scattered group, including Ritu Kumar was to become the countrys leading designers of the buildings, garments, fabric and accessories. Ritu began with hand block printers and two tables in a small village near Calcutta, and in the last 28 years, Ritus team of dedicated workers have progressed to produce some of the countrys most exquisite garments and accessories in cotton, silk and leather. These ranges embrace both traditional textile crafts and the lineage of Indian design. Over the centuries, traditional skills that had been lost have been revitalized and this has enabled the craftsmen to continue working in their own environment. Ritu has pioneered the term fashion in the Indian context, and more importantly, has demonstrated that hand made products can be as profitable and even more glamorous than those made by machine. Ritu Kumars forte is traditional Indian clothes, that draw heavily on the textile and embroidery heritage of India and remains classics of their kind. But she evolved another style for European buyer. Her Indo-West fusion wear has all the trappings of block prints, embroidery and craft inputs on a western style. Ritu has been designing the wardrobes comprising swim-wear, evening wear, traditional Indian wear, casual wear, formal evening gowns; of the winning three Miss Indias, for their participation in the International beauty pageants (Miss Universe, Miss World & Miss Asia pacific respectively). At least six of these, to mention a few; Manpreet Brar, Ruchi Malhotra, Rani Jeyraj and recently Lara Dutta, have won the award for the Most Outstanding Evening Gown in International pageants. Ritu has opened many outlets all over India. Style icons as late Princess Diana have patronized her outfits. Ritu Kumar also launched her book Costumes and Textiles of Royal India which is published by Christies, London. PERSONAL DATA: Born in Amritsar, November 11, 1944 Citizenship: INDIAN Married, Two children. Education: Post Graduate Diploma in Museology, 1967, Ashutosh Museum, Calcutta Associate in Arts, 1966, Briarcliff College, Westchester County, NY, USA Bachelor of Education. 1965, Lady Irwin College, New Delhi Bachelor of Science in Home Economics, 1964, Lady Irwin College, New Delhi Intermediate in Science, 1960, Government College, Amritsar

Matriculation, 1958, Sacred Heart Convent, Amritsar Professional Experience: Designer of Textiles and Garments R & D in Design: Leather ready-mades and accessories using traditional techniques The collection Karabagh launched in 1994. Development of handloom weaving to suit ready to wear needs, in Maheshwar, Andhra Pradesh, Orissa and Tamil Nadu. Revival of tie/dye in selected areas in Gujarat. Revival and change of end use of vegetable printing/painting and dyeing techniques in Andhra Pradesh. Revival and change in end use of the printing techniques of Tanjore. Research into traditional design motifs to translate them from traditional uses to leather and textiles. Development of a specialized printing unit at Balabhgarh employing modern techniques of screen-printing. Continuing work on established lines, producing two collections a year for national retail outlets in: Traditional Zardozi Kashida Handblock prints Ethnic embroideries by machine and hand Kantha Associations Membership of Governing / Executive bodies: All India Handloom Board at the Ministry of Textiles. Delhi Crafts Council, Delhi Chapter Divyachhaya Save a Child Trust, Calcutta / Delhi Board of Governors: National Institute of Fashion Technology. Awards Lifetime Achievement Award set by NIFT Outstanding Woman Entrepreneur Award by PHDCC Lifetime achievement award at the Kingfisher Fashion Fantasia, July 2000 in Bangalore. RITU A history of company 2002 CHRONOLOGY OF PRESENTATIONS: Designed wardrobes for the participants of various pageants, with two new contests-- Miss International and Miss Earth added to the growing list of pageants. Neha Dhupia - participated in the Miss Universe Contest held in Puerto Rico on 29th May 2002. Shruti Sharma - participated in the Miss World contest held in London on the 30th November 2002. Tina Chatwal - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific contest held in Manila on the 30th November 2002 and she was the first runner up in the contest. Gauhar Khan - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2002.

Reshmi Ghosh - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila, which was held on the 20th October 2002. She won the Best national Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli. Exhibitions held in four cities, one each in : Nagpur on 15th - 17th February 2002 Pune on 26th -28th February 2002 Hyderabad on 07th - 09th October 2002 Ahmedabad on 23rd - 24th October 2002 Opened two new outlets in Ludhiana on 15th October at Dhir Towers, Govt. College Road Bangalore on 21st November at 1 Embassy Chambers, 5 Vittal Mallya Road 2001 T. Maheshwari - participated in the Miss Asia Pacific Contest held in Manila, on 10th November 2001. Sara Conner - participated in the Miss World contest in Johannesburg. on the 24th November 2001. Kanwal Toor - participated in the Miss International contest in Tokyo on the 04th October 2001. Shamita Singha - participated in the Miss Earth contest in Manila, which was held on the 20th October. She won the Best National Costume Award wearing one of our lehnga choli.Exhibitions held in three cities, one each in Ahmedabad on September 3rd - 5th in Hyderabad on 11th - 13th October 2001 and in Bangalore on 9th -11th November 2001. Relocated our premises to a new address in Amritsar, Cross-Mall, 39 HDFC Building, The Mall, Amritsar. One more retail space opened in Punjab. Ritus new showroom opened on the 01st November 2001 at Chandigarh, Shop No. 21, Sector 9D, Chandigarh. 28th October 2001 The "Ritu Kumar" Bridal and Period collection was shown at the The Oberoi Towers, Mumbai on 28th October 2001 at the Regal Room. The show was held in collaboration with the magazine "Marwar" to celebrate its 10th anniversary. The evening was entitled," Soiree Royale". The other highlights of which were the presence of several erstwhile Maharajas and Princes from the royal families of Rajasthan. A sumptious royal cuisine was also painstakingly created by the chefs at the Oberoi hotel. October 5th 2001 Vivah Show - Oberoi Hotel, Mumbai Opened the fashion sequence of the Vivah Show 2001 organized by Femina held on 05th October in Oberoi Hotel, Mumbai and participated in the Bridal fair held in Bombay. September 27th 2001 Bridal Asia - Taj Mahal Hotel, Delhi Participated in Bridal Asia 2001 in New Delhi, opening the fashion sequence with a short film which preceded the showing of the new bridal line. August 2001 Lakme India Fashion Week, Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai June 27th 2001 Alternatives to Shatoosh, a presentation at Taj Mahal Hotel - Delhi March 20th 2001 In house Bridal Showing - Archana, Delhi February 12th 2001 Pret to Couture - National Gallery of Modern Art, Mumbai

A collection of ancient costumes from Ritu Kumars archives as well as her latest Bridal Collection and presented at the National Gallery of Modern Art in Mumbai, as A Retrospective
Prt to Couture

The show is like a journey into the past, old style tight kurtas, churidars salwars and Indian melodies from the 60s and 70s providing plenty of nostalgia. 2000... In August 2000, Ritu Kumar first presented her Prt to Couture for summer, along with a collection of woolens, silk and leather garments for winter. Prt to Couture is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both young and elegant. The inspirations for these garments come from basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles. The show first opened at the Lakme India Fashion Week in New Delhi and was later shown in Kolkata. CHRONOLOGY OF PRESENTATIONS: August 23rd 2000 Lakme India Fashion Week, New Delhi September 2000 Hotel Taj Bengal, Kolkata November 2000 In House Bridal Showing, Mumbai May 2000 The celebrated audio-visual tableau by Ritu Kumar, Tree of life presented as part Of the cultural extravaganza- at the India Trade show in Tel Aviv, Israel in May 2000 and was also hosted at The Memphis in May festival, 2000 at Memphis, Tennesse USA. Lara Dutta- Femina Miss India/Universe won the Miss Universe title at the pageant held In Nicosia, Cyprus on 13th May 2000. She also won the Best National Costume first Runner - up award in an ornate four-piece ensemble, a traditionally cut-paneled lehenga, reminiscent of vegetable dyeing and patterning, designed by Ms. Kumar. February 2000 On 26th February 2000, the show was taken to The Grand hall, Hong Kong Convention Center at Hong Kong by the India Trade Promotion Organization. January 2000 The Tree Of Life was the highlight of the Grand Finale during the cultural evening Hosted by confederation of Indian Industry at the Annual Meeting of the World Economic Forum, In Davos, Switzerland held on 28th January, 2000. 1999 Collections - By the 90s RITU began to focus input into design and colors, which were adaptable to seasons. Summer and Winter lines were brought out. The salwar kameez lines were expanded and a major thrust was given to the Bridal collection, which till then was limited in colors and patterns. Off whites, gold, turquoise and mehndi greens were introduced to a bride apart from the traditional colors around red. Experiment with mediums like leather, were carried on, resulting in collections like Karabagh in 1994. Traditional skills were adapted into contemporary wear with the East West collection of1996. Overall there were changes in cuts, colors, and prints of all garments. October 1999 Ritus Tree of Life show was especially invited by the Singapore Indian Fine Arts Society for their 50th year celebrations, on 28th October, 1999. The guest of honour, at these celebrations was the President of Singapore. BOOK In 1999, Ritu Kumar released the Costumes and Textiles of Royal India with launches in London and the four main metros in India.

An in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India the book considers all the various stylistic traditions, both religious and regional, arising from within this vast country. Beginning with Indias ancient and medieval history, through the Mughal period and ninety years of British rule, and on into the twentieth century that saw the demise of Princely India and the establishment of a democratic nation, these are fashions that both permeate the culture and reflect it. The evolution of the tastes and preferences of Indias royalty has been traced through the traditional court clothing that has been researched and documented by the author over two decades. The exquisite costumes and textiles featured in this sumptuous book, which come from all four corners of the subcontinent, are unmatched in their beauty and refinement. Published by Christies Books Ltd, the book has been edited by Cathy Muscat and includes a foreword by Martand Singh, Chairman INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage, UK Trust) 1998 Won Lifetime Achievement Award set by NIFT Outstanding Woman Entrepreneur Award by PHDCC. November Ritus Tree of Life show, now a classic in the Indian design Industry was chosen to represent India at the world Fashion Forum at the NIFT, this year. Performed as the finale to the show, which featured designs from all over, the world, the Tree of Life was acknowledged as a fitting tribute to the richness of Indian textile heritage. September In recognition to the contribution to the fashion Industry, and the encouragement of young talent at NIFT, Ritu was appointed on the Board of Governors of the National Institute of Fashion Design. 1997 Tree of life was presented once again at the Wembly Conference Center on the May 24th, 25th, in London, as a part of the celebration of the 50 years of Indias Independence. 1996 May 1996 saw the crystallization of the dream to take Indian creativity and craftsmanship out into the world in the form of Ritu London at North Audley Street. With an art gallery A.R.K.S. in its basement. Ritu London counts amongst its customers, Jemima Khan and the late Princes Diana. Ritu-London presented a range of Indias highest quality craft skills linking garments, accessories, leathers, furnishings, papers and reeds. Spanning several centuries the designs include woven, printed, embroidered, painted and twisted techniques. From the workshops of RITU come garments, handbags and furnishings from the Zardozi, Kashida, Tree of life and Karabagh Collections. Also included were her more recent researches into the hinterlands of the country together with the creations of other Indian designers. 1995 Mid-September Ritu was invited to provide costumes for the contestants of Miss UK 1995, in a section entitled Tribute to India. End-September Ritu donated and mounted an exhibition of the prints and vegetable dyes of Macchlipatnam, Srikalahasti and Srikenaikempat, villages situated in the Coromandal Coast (now Cholamangalam) which were the manufacturing centers for the worlds most sought after prints and designs of the 17th and 18th centurys. Old prints were sourced at the Victoria and Albert museum and produced in Calcutta with the hand block printing techniques originally used in Macchlipatnam three-centurys ago.

1994 In January 1994, Ritu presented KARABAGH, a collection of traditional and modern handbags and coats in leather along with a selection of cushions and quilts in silk. The experiment combined both traditional and modern techniques with materials accessible to the contemporary designer. Experimenting with a diversity of fabrics, Ritu worked on a uniform theme based on images from Cholamandal coast, Kashmir, Sanganer and Farukkhabad. In 1994, Ritu clothed the Miss Universe and Miss World winners Sushmita Sen and Aishwarya Rai, who were able to display the riches of Indias regenerated and evolved textile crafts to the world of television viewers. 1993 In March 93, The Tree of Life was presented by the Madras Craft foundation to raise funds for Dakshinachitra, a craft center and working museum demonstrating the traditional skills of the south. 1992 On February 10th, 1992, the tableau was presented once again at the crafts Museum in Pragati Maidan, New Delhi. This time by four organizations working together: The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), The Delhi crafts council, The Handloom and Handicrafts Museum and RITU. Exhibitions/Promotions in 1992 November A collection odhnis for India through the Veil: An exhibition of odhnis at Commonwealth Institute, London. June A collection of contemporary saris for 101 Saris, a traveling exhibition starting at the Cartright Hall, Bradford, U.K. In association with the Government of India Handicrafts and Handlooms Export Corporation, Gujrat State Handicraft Development Corporation, Orissa Co-operative Handicrafts Corporation, Co-optex and Sewa Lucknow. 1989 1991 As a celebration of 21 years of RITU, THE TREE OF LIFE audio visual fashion tableau was mounted, it showcased traditional and modern garments linking Indian heritage with contemporary fashion. It was presented by invitation at the craft museum. The tableau was presented in Calcutta to raise funds for Divya Chalavja Trust, and at the Asiatic Society in Mumbai. Exhibitions/Promotions March/April 1990 - Established Ritu a shop within a shop at the Galleries La Fayette, Paris, Promotion of India. Zardozi Exhibition - Festival of India in USA, Philadelphia Museum. November 1989 Participated in the Hongkong Asia Trust presentation on Traditions and Adaptations in Textiles and Fashion from Hong Kong, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. 1988 In 1988, Ritu mixed embroidery and handblock printing to create the KASHIDA COLLECTION. The geometric phulkaris of Punjab, the mirror work of Kutch, the stylized plant and floral motifs of the Kashmir, the white of the Chikan and the Kantha work of Bengal were blended with hand block prints to create garments of refinement and texture reflecting the very essence of Indian aesthetics. One of Ritus craftsmen earned the Presidents Award for excellence in craft. 1985 The ZARDOZI COLLECTION of traditional wedding and evening wear was exhibited at the Lalit Kala Academy in New Delhi, the Jahangir art gallery in Mumbai, the Birla Academy of art and culture in Calcutta and at the festival of India in the USA. Ritus boutique was by this time renamed simply RITU.

1975 This is the time when the company Kalamkari Designs Pvt. Ltd. was started jointly with her husband. A craft oriented export house was soon selling silk dresses under the label "Ritu Kumar for Monsoon" London. "Ritu Kumar for Judith Ann," New York,. Sanoba Moden in Germany, Roshafi in Amsterdam and Trade Action in Australia. Franchises were also started with Harrods London, Liberty, London for brief periods. It was a time for experimentation and exploration, and Ritu began to be well known for her print designs. The role has not changed since then. The export of garments continues till the present day and the company has expanded its collections substantially and is now based in New Delhi. 1974 Monday 18th March 1974: RITU'S BOUTIQUE opens in Bombay at Akash Ganga, 89 Bhulabhai Desai Road (Warden Road) Bombay-26 1973 In the early 70s, Ritu discovered the embroiders of Ranihati, settlements based outside Calcutta and provided them with a workspace in their own environment. Gradually the crafts of Zardozi, that had once flourished in the great workshops of the Mughal emperors, were revived to produce marriage garments and evening wear of great beauty. In contemporising these skills, Ritu evolved a unique blend of pattern, fabric and gold embroidery. 1972 Saturday April 8th 1972: Fashion Parade by RITU'S BOUTIQUE at the Tollygunge Club, Calcutta. 1970 Monday 9th of March 1970 - Exhibition-cum-sale of hand printed saris, Broad borders and huge pallavs revived the art of resist printing. Paisley. Little daisy like flowers, squares and circles, traditional and modern motifs, were mixed and matched. January 25th 1970 - Ritus Boutique celebrated two years of its existence on with a fashion show which was called "The Fashion Mood of the Seventies" It was a very early attempt at bringing some professionalism onto the ramp. There were 40 outfits shown in total. 1968 Opening of Ritus boutique in Calcutta at 46 a-b Wellesley Street Calcutta- 700016. Ritu first regarded the boutique phenomena a fun thing. A mere giggle. Success changed all that and she became thoroughly and totally involved with her work. She was quite elated at the marvelous response Calcutta gave RITU'S BOUTIQUE and naturally had bigger, brighter plans for the future. 1966 Ritus first Boutique opened in Delhi at D3 Defence Colony Link Road, New Delhi. This was the first ever boutique in Delhi. The Book For centuries, the ruling dynasties of India promoted the skills of spinners, weavers, dyers, printers and embroiderers, commissioning textiles from renowned centers of excellence across the subcontinent. Delicate muslins from Dacca, fine silk brocades from Varanasi, complex woollen weaves from Kashmir, intricate gold embroideries from Lahoreall were transformed into costumes fit for kings and courtiers. After years spent searching for the last surviving examples of traditional court clothing, acclaimed designer Ritu Kumar, has uncovered a wealth of costumes. Her book is a celebration of thousands of years of craft tradition and a testimony to the survival of the worlds richest textile repertoire. The production of Indias finest textiles has long been woven around its complex history and age-old traditions. This in-depth account of the royal costumes and textiles of India considers all the various stylistic traditions, both religious and regional, arising from within this vast country. Beginning with Indias ancient and medieval history, through the Mughal period and ninety years of British rule, and on into the twentieth century that saw the demise of Princely India and the establishment of a democratic nation, these are fashions that both permeate the culture and reflect it.The evolution of the tastes and preferences of Indias royalty has been traced through the traditional court clothing that has been researched and documented by the author over two

decades. The exquisite costumes and textiles featured in this sumptuous book, which come from all four corners of the subcontinent, are unmatched in their beauty and refinement. Ritu Kumar, one of Indias foremost designers, has sought to present the most exceptional examples. Using material from both the public collections and personal collections of Indias royal families, insight into these hidden treasures can at last be gained. DETAILS: Published in 1999 by : Christies Books Ltd., London Book produced by: Art Books International, London Designed by : Lisa Tai Printed and bound by: Grafiche Milani, Italy Written by : Ritu Kumar Edited by : Cathy Muscat With a Foreword by: Martand Singh, Chairman INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage, UK Trust) COLLECTIONS I believe in going deep into the roots of every design to find out its relevance in the present context. I also try and visualize whether a woman would look elegant in my designs. Its a lot of hard work. But then this is a very competitive field and unless you put in that extra effort you will tag far behind. Ritu Kumar First City, Aug-99 Zardozi In the small village of Ranihati, a cluster of thatched huts under giant palms a few miles outside Kolkata, Ritu Kumar began research and work on reviving the forgotten art of Zardozi. With innovations in use of material and the technique of Zardozi itself she was able to attain applicability much wider than its traditional use in court and bridal costumes. In 1985, after years of research, innovation and creation, Ritu Kumar launched her Zardozi collection in New Delhi. This was the first ever display of Zardozi in a contemporary era. A modest beginning but with tremendous hard work, soon resulted in a broad understanding and revived patronage of this craft. To her credit, Zardozi is now an extensively used and widely appreciated technique around the country. 1988 Kashida Using needle and thread to decorate textiles is an ancient craft. In India embroidery patterns have evolved in different regions of the countrythe geometric phulkaris of the Punjab, mirror works motifs of the Kutch, Kashmirs stylized plant and floral motifs, tone on tone Chikan of Lucknow, and the Kanthas of Bengal form part of the vast repertoire of Indias embroidery traditions. Block printing is another highly developed tradition of ornamenting textiles. Blocks are small surfaces of wood carved in reverse. These are dipped into dyes and the design is transferred on to cloth. Ritu Kumar developed Kashida as the art of colored thread embroidery on hand block printed fabric. The Collection was first displayed in 1988 and has since been used significantly in RITUs garments sold at her retail outlets around India. 1994 Karabagh On the southwestern shores of India, stretching from Macchalipatnam to Negapatnam lies the Cholamandal Coast. The prints of these region are synonymous with an exuberant design vocabulary of stylized flowers, leaves, birds, trees, vines developed in hinterland villages over hundreds of years. Far to the north, hidden in the mountains and valleys of Kashmir, another distinct design directory evolved, around myriad permutations on the Ambi, or what became

known as the paisley to the rest of the world. Villages in the desert reaches of Rajasthan and dusty plains of Gujarat gave us the Buti in its many forms while the Farukhabad School, from the Indian heartland, produced in its ateliers, a completely different vocabulary with its vibrant use of the square space and evolved spring-like textured jalis with vibrant surface distribution which were popular later as the Cheent or chinz prints of India. With the Karabagh Collection, Ritu Kumar pays tribute to the eternal vines of the Cholamandal coast and the paisley or Ambi, popularized in the painted and printed tradition of Kalamkari, which is the starting point of this collection. The experiment transcends tradition in its attempt to combine techniques and materials accessible to the designer. Thus leather coats, bags and accessories are embossed, printed or painted, embroidered in harmony with the basic ethos of the Cholamandal design range, enhancing and adding an element of embellishment hitherto unexplored. The soft furnishing include spreads, hangings and cushions printed, embroidered and quilted on the finest Murshidabad silk, perhaps for the first time, transforming the feel of the unending vines of Cholamandal and bringing in a fresh energy to the eternal paisley, which is synonymous with the Indian identity of design. 1996 Sangmarmar Launched at the end of March just as spring turned to summer, the Sangmarmar Collection is based on the pristine white of the immortal Taj Mahal and designed with motifs that echo the carvings and inlay work. Mostly comprising outfits in soft white tery-rubia, with tone-on-tone white embroidery or delicate pastel contrasts, the Sangmarmar collection epitomizes the purity of marble. Cool and comfortable, the designs offer scoop necklines, short sleeves and criss-cross backs young and yet with a touch of nostalgia. 1998 Dhoop Chhaon Hues of damask rose, flowering hibiscus, flame of the forest and the deep golden yellow of the marigold are splashed in all their richness in floral prints on salwar kameez ensembles. 1998 Gulmohar As summer sets in, the romantic flame of the forest trees, are vibrant with their red, hot colored flowers, exuberant and wild under the hot April sun. The surrounding trees of the Jacaranda are like an artists brush strokes of mauve and purple which along with the brilliant yellows of the Amaltash flowering trees produce a kaleidoscope which vies with the glare of the hot mid day sun. Ritu Kumars Gulmohar collection reflects this joyous mood in its play of vibrant prints on cool chiffons. Flowy and feminine, seductive and warm in its textures, colors and prints. The colors are tropical and hot and liven up summer evenings 1999 Bridal Ritu Kumar rejects the long-held premise that the Indian bride has primarily to be dressed in shades of red. For her Bridal 99 collection she selected mehendi green, saffron, khaki, turquoise and even off-white colors. Delicate Zardozi and Aari work embellish the ensembles and the off white fabrics are interwoven with pure gold thread. 2000 Prt to Couture In August 2000, Ritu Kumar first presented her Prt to Couture collection along with a collection of woolens, silk and leather garments. Prt to Couture is a collection of casual and formal wear that is both young and elegant. The inspirations for these garments are basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles. AWARDS: 1998: 'Lifetime Achievement Award' set by National Institute of Fashion Technology. In recognition to the contribution to the fashion industry, and the encouragement of young talent

at NIFT, Ritu was appointed on the Board of Governors of NIFT and was felicitated with the 'Lifetime Achievement award. December 1998: 'Outstanding Women Entrepreneur Award'set by the PHD-Chamber of Commerce. 15th July 2000: 'Lifetime achievement award' set by Kingfisher Group The Kingfisher group hosted Fashion Fantasia, a fashion extravaganza in Bangalore. Awards were given to deserving members of the fashion fraternity and this is where Ritu Kumar once again won the 'Lifetime achievement award' Ritu Kumar - Designing for 'Queens'

Ritu Kumar "India today is perhaps the last surviving country where the rich textile legacy is not showcased in a museum but in the hands of its surviving 16 million artisans" The winners of all three International Beauty titles of 2000 were attired by designer Ritu Kumar. The high priestess of Indian haute couture has dressed up 17 young ladies of whom 13 have won the Miss India pageant and seven have gone on to win the Miss World, Miss Universe, and Miss Asia-Pacific titles. by Surabhi Khosla

The traditional look L-R: Diya Mirza (Femina), Lara Dutta (Indiatimes.com), Aishwarya Rai and Yukta Mookhy After conquering India a number of times she has annexed the world four times and the universe twice. Ritu Kumar, India's top fashion designer, has over the past six years, dressed 17 Miss India participants of whom 13 have won the crown and seven have gone on to win the Miss World, Miss Universe, and Miss Asia-Pacific titles. The latest in her line of victories are Lara Dutta (Miss Universe), Priyanka Chopra (Miss World), and Diya Mirza (miss Asia-Pacific).

Ritu Kumar has been designing wardrobes for the finalists of the Miss India beauty contest since 1994. The outcome of her effort has been very rewarding as seven contestants have emerged winners at the international level--- the Miss World, Miss Asia-Pacific and the Miss Universe contests. Three others made it to the runners up grade while three more contestants have won the Best Gown Awards. A further three managed to gain significant scores in their national costume rounds. Apart from the last three, ten contestants came home with some award or the other. The impressive record, is by no means an easy one to achieve, both for the contestants or the designer responsible for the image. Says Ritu Kumar, " Designing of costumes is more complex than it seems and can be equated to art . There is no formula here, as the same style cannot be used on different contestants. I have to take into account the personality of the individual for whom the dress is being designed. Secondly there is that added pressure that your clothes are going to be up against international competition." The idea is to present a sartorial personality who is at home in any type of garment." She must give the feel of someone who has an elegant wardrobe, one which is presented to the world with as much individuality and cultural context as possible." The most difficult part about the whole process is the uniqueness of each contestants mind and personality. Some look stunning in a sari, others in a sarong, some in a heavy zardozi lehnga, while others look great in a swimsuit. It can take almost four months to get a wardrobe ready for an international beauty contestant. And then it takes a few weeks to get the contestants comfortable with the attire. Once that is done, says Ritu, they step out supremely confident of who they are and are ready to take on the world. How does she feel about being the designer behind the scenes who has played a vital role in the beauty queens winning international pageants? The feeling is euphoric, she says. It is clearly the distinctive clothing of India and our craft traditions which I use on all their wardrobes which have attracted attention and made the contestants stand out. Because of the costumes I have begun to get more and more international recognition." "Ritu Kumars success story in fashion revolves around the revival of Indian crafts - from block prints, kasauti, chikankari to zardozi, bandhani and kalamkari." "India today is perhaps the last surviving country where the rich textile legacy is not showcased in a museum but in the hands of its surviving 16 million artisans," says Kumar. "It is the lifework of these remarkable master artisans that Ritu Kumar celebrates through her unique designs, translating ancient traditions into a contemporary vocabulary." Ritu Kumars association with the Miss India contest came about by chance. She was one of the judges at the Miss India contest held in 1994 when Aishwarya Rai and Sushmita Sen both tied for the first place. When they won the Miss World and Miss Universe titles respectively she couriered wardrobes to Sushmita in New York and Aishwarya in London, which were suitable for what they had become, ambassadors from India." When Aishwarya was in London, she was wearing hand printed saris at the rehearsals and Durga patch leather coats while shopping. Sushmita too posed in front of the Pyramids in Egypt wearing a Jaamdaani kurta pyjamas and met the President of India in a Bandhej suit. Suddenly everyone realized how well Indian clothes were working for the contestants." After the grand finale of 1994 when both Aishwarya and Sushmita were crowned Miss World and Miss Universe, she was officially appointed to do the wardrobes of all the three contestants who participate in international contests. " I have since clothed 17 contestants with very well researched and extensive wardrobes. The girls come to me a few months before the pageant and require fittings, training and many sessions before the wardrobe is ready. By now it has been honed into a fine art."

" The contest runs for a month so the wardrobe has to be consistent," says Ritu. " Interestingly she says the hardest part is the everyday clothes which contestants have to wear on several occasions before the actual contest. These clothes have to create a balance between attracting attention and yet looking suave and elegant at the same time. An eye catching and elegant costume is a must to make the first impression." Ritu's creations have also been worn by celebrities like Jemima Khan and the late Princess Diana.

Ritu Kumar began with hand block printers and two tables in a small village near Calcutta, and in the last 28 years, Ritu's team of dedicated designers have progressed to produce some of India's most exquisite garments and accessories. Over the centuries, traditional skills that had been lost have been revitalized. This has enabled craftsmen to continue working in their own environment. Ritu has transformed the term 'fashion' in the Indian context, and more importantly, has demonstrated that hand-made products can be as profitable and even more lamorous than those made by machine. Ritu Kumar's forte is traditional Indian clothes - bridal attire in particular - that draw heavily on the rich Indian heritage of textile and embroidery and remain classics of their kind. Shaadionline is proud to present Ritu Kumar 's exclusive bridal which are all about celebrations and joy on the most special occasion in a woman's life - her wedding day. The wedding ensembles, including lehengas, salwar sets and sarees are interwoven with gold, richly ornamented by traditional embroidery.

~ GALLERY ~ The costume that won Lara Dutta the 'Best National Costume' first runner up award at the Miss Universe pageant, 2000. It is a 4-piece ensemble, comprising of a traditionally cut, panelled 'Lehenga in 'gheru' colour, remniscent of vegetable dyeing and patterning. The dramatic 'gota' and 'kasab' hand-worked wide diagonal border is in burgundy. Colourful Jaipuri motifs scale up the 'kalis', giving the garment its flattering look. Miss Asia Pacific, 2000, This lehenga-choli ensemble is representative of the traditional Rajasthan/Gujarat style of embroidery. The rich red colour is symbolic of festivity/fertility. Metallic yarn is traditionally used on these garments. During the actual wedding ceremony, conducted in front of the fire, the motifs and the colours of the ensemble glow. The 3-piece ensemble

1966 "I

had graduated from Lady Irwin College in New Delhi and was fortunate to get a scholarship to study History of Western Art in the USA. The experience, was to influence the rest of my working life as the course was stimulating and gave me a strong grounding in the study of aesthetics. During my college days I remember being passionately nationalistic, later I realized that this was largely due to the insecurity that the affluent west generates. The result was that I became interested in all things Indian, and read all I could find in the library about my country. Shortly I was to get married and return to India. My husband lived in Calcutta, and this is when I began my relationship with the Bengal I love so dearly today. As a student I had realized that I was largely ignorant about Indian culture, and had this yearning to learn about the history of Indian Art and its aesthetical foundations, a subject that was rarely taught in the country. I was lucky to find that a similar course was offered by the Ashutosh Museum in Calcutta. There I enrolled to study a subject called "Museology", in a musty crumbling building on College Street. Nothing could have been more remote from today's world of couture or fashion. The work was very interesting and involved taking field visits to remote hamlets, in and around the city of Calcutta. I was exposed not only to the classical arts but became aware of the craftsmen who

worked in various mediums of folk art in Bengal. The British presence in Calcutta and the patronage the then, capital of India, gave to the textile craftsmen made it a rich reservoire for various hand made products. There were master tailors and cutters, who made dinner jackets and suits for men. There were gown makers, milliners embroiderers, weavers and printers. The northern part of India where I had spent my childhood, seemed comparatively primitive in these crafts. I had always been interested in textiles and fabrics and was fascinated with what I saw around me. I would attend college in the morning and begin exploring the lanes and villages around Calcutta in my free time. It was not long before I began experimenting with fabrics and ready mades. Very soon I had built up a stock of textiles and did not have a clue as to how to market these designs. Unlike today there were no garage shops, or the culture of buying from a shop. Few actually believed that anything ready made would actually sell, as the neighborhood tailor was so accessible. Providentially an aunt of mine who lived in Delhi, was planning to start a florist shop. We decided to venture forth to locate a shop where we could sell some ready mades, craft items, and flowers And that is how it all began!