Hemispheres - March 2013

Hemisphe heres
THREE PERFECT DAYS IN KELOWNA, B.C.
BRIGHT LIGHTS: WE HEAD TO LAS VEGAS TO CHECK OUT SPRINGS HOTTEST NEW LOOKS
HOW SELF-DRIVING CARS WILL CHANGE AMERICA (WARNING: IT COULD BE A BUMPY RIDE)
MATT DAMON ON SOLVING THE WORLDS WATER CRISISAND IRKING JOHN KRASINSKI
SEEING RED: MEET THE CALIFORNIA VINTNERS UPROOTING TRADITION IN WINE COUNTRY
Your Golden Angel
The feeling of being protected...

Dear Wellendorff family,
Paignton, April 29, 2011 Many years ago, while I was vacationing on the west coast of Denmark, I found an amulet with a hand-painted angel on it. A name and year had been engraved on the back. Since no one claimed the amulet, it became mine, and a talisman that I wore every day. Several years later I met an Englishman in Munich. He scrutinized my pendant and told me that his late wife used to have an angel just like mine. When we parted he gave me his business card, and my heart almost stood still ... not only did he live in Denmark, his name was the same as the one engraved on the back of the amulet. Yes, it was the same angel that he had given to his wife on their wedding day. Without hesitation I returned the angel to its proper owner. The situation was upsetting for both of us. I no longer had the guardian angel I had become so fond of and he was reliving sad memories. A few weeks later he announced he was coming to Munich over Christmas. He brought me the amulet back and proposed to me! Despite the objections of my parents and my son, who was then 20, I married the man who was still almost a stranger, in a very quiet ceremony in Denmark. In our case the amulet was a cupid that has kept us together for 29 happy years. Sincerely yours Heidi Thomas
This letter has inspired us to create our new Angels Wings collection. It has been a fresh reminder to the genuine value of jewellery: To bring joy and offer protection. Experience the complete collection at www.wellendorff.com, Tel. (+49) 7231 28 40 128.
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M A R C H
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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013
YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY
68
THE HEMI Q&A Hollywood icon Matt Damon digs into one of his biggest roles yet: global advocate for clean water
WELCOME ABOARD CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek VOICES A message to yers CONNECTIONS Whats new at United 10 12 13
72
THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT High in the Sierra Madre mountains of Mexico, man and insect become allies in survival
76
SPRING FASHION Famed for its energy and excitement, Las Vegas provides a tting backdrop for the seasons best bets
MICHAEL HANSON
THREE PERFECT DAYS: KELOWNA
Discovering a year-round playground in Canadas Okanagan Valley

5
MARCH
105 114 119
DISPATCHES
GLOBETROTTING
News and notes from around the world
15
ROAD TRIP
On the trail of an American blues legend in the Lexus GS 350 F Sport
23
STAY
From Israel to Antigua, the months hottest hotels
27
FOOD & DRINK

California winemakers buck tradition, lighten up
31
CULTURE
THE MONTH AHEAD
What to read, watch and listen to in March
37
GOODS
Step up your style with fresh new footwear
45
THE FAN
With smaller crowds and more creative programs, a golf oasis blooms in the Arizona desert
51
BRIGHT IDEAS
HOW ITS DONE
Helping Romes Colosseum bear up under the weight of history
57
INDUSTRY
Driverless cars get the green light
59
TECH
Scientists experiment with crowdsourcing their discoveries
63
ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION
ABOUT THE COVER: A skier glides amid the snow ghostspowdercoated treesat Big White Ski Resort in Kelowna, British Columbia, photographed by Michael Hanson
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OUR JANUARY FEATURE on Forrest Fenn, the
former art dealer who hid a $3 million treasure near Santa Fe and then dropped some clues in his memoir, drew a lot of comments. Among them was this, from Irene Rawlings of Denver: It makes me want to buy a pickax, rent a mule and go out on a treasure hunt. Such a happy and optimistic way to start the new year! Barbara Rogers of New Hampshire concurred: What a beautiful story! It captures the sense that the real treasure is not the contents of the chest, but how it has red peoples imaginations. Meanwhile, John Penuel of France enjoyed our piece on a Nobelists wife hobnobbing at Bostons Symphony Hall. I read this piece on a ight yesterday. It made me laugh out loud, he wrote. I actually took the magazine with me. First time Ive ever done that. So now lets hear from you. Follow us on Twi er at @hemispheresmag, friend us on Facebook, download our free iPad app from the iTunes Store, or simply email us at editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com. The Editors
GOLD RUSH Forrest Fenns treasure chest
EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Keohane EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Wright MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer L. Johnson SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti EDITOR AT LARGE Sam Polcer ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Jeff Quinn PHOTO EDITOR Julien Tomasello CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, Mike Guy, Michael Kaplan, Jon Marcus, Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis, Grant Stoddard
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Christine Berrie, Peter James Field, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, James Provost, Steve Stankiewicz
EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Michael Keating
U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Orion Ray-Jones Ink, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com
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NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Andrea Chase-Ward, Scott Stone, Anna Szpunar, Banu Yilmaz

U.S. TERRITORY MANAGERS
CONTRIBUTORS
Greg Hankinson, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, Lonnie Milligan, Lisa Nelson, Ryan Sadorf, Ketan Solanki, Michael Vicar HAWAII Robert Wiegand EUROPE Sarah Orme ASIA Jacqueline Ho
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PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey
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PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS
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PHIL PRIMACK is a Boston-area writer and editor whose work has appeared in such publications as the New York Times and the Boston Globe. After witnessing the amazing migration of monarch butteries to Mexico (The Buttery Effect, page 72), he now feels very guilty about his boyhood hobby of collecting butteries to preserve under glass.
OLIVIA GUNNING BENNANI is a journalist who left London for Morocco more than a decade ago, intending to stay six monthsshes been there ever since. Her fascination with all things North African has led her from desert sands to mountain peaks and, for this issue, into the purple elds of one of Moroccos most precious commodities (Crocus Act, page 20).
JOE MORSE is a Toronto illustrator whose client list ranges from Esquire and GQ to Nike and Target. He says he was thrilled to add Matt Damon (The Hemi Q&A, page 68) to his gallery of portraits, because my best paintings happen when the subject is doing something meaningful, and Damons advocacy for safe water is critical for the worlds poor.
Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Ste. 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 Ink
CEO Jeffrey ORourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie
HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owners risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.
ADDISON DOTY (TREASURE CHEST); MNICA ECHEVERRIA (PRIMACK)
After the recap. Before the nightcap.
9:21 p.m. Networking at a rooftop nightclub in Downtown, one of Orlandos dining and entertainment districts. From dancing at a high-energy nightclub to indulging in global or regional cuisine, Orlando makes business meetings productive and exciting. Find out how business events are just the beginning at OrlandoDistricts.com.
CONVENTION AREA RESTAURANT ROW WINTER PARK DOWNTOWN UNIVERSAL /CITYWALK DISNEY/LAKE BUENA VISTA Entertaining Options Prime Dining Destination Southern Chic Vibrant Nightlife Adventurous & Energetic Signature Excitement
CEO LETTER
Investing in Our People

elcome aboard, and thanks for choosing United for your ight today. We invest a lot in our business and in our customers. We have both external customers (you) and internal customers (our co-workers). Its important that we invest in both. If we take care of our co-workers, they will take care of you. So we are making a number of investments in our co-workers, including new customer service training for 100 percent of our ight a endants and agents worldwideover 44,000 people. When we nish the training this year, everyone will be on the same page about what great service means and what we expect our co-workers to deliver for you. We are also upgrading the passenger service system interface at our gates, in our lobbies and at our contact centers, to give our co-workers fast, easyto-use tools to do their jobs. In January, we opened a new co-worker
health clinic at OHare. Its the fifth co-worker health clinic at United, and any co-worker can use our clinics completely free of charge. All our clinics, operated by Walgreens Well Network, oer convenient on-site health services to keep our co-workers feeling and performing well. We recently opened the first set of newly refurbished co-worker break rooms at our Washington-Dulles hub, featuring a comfortable new design, and new furniture and appliances for our co-workers to use during their breaks. Break rooms are things you will likely never see, but they are very important to our co-workers, who use them to relax, eat a meal, read their e-mail, catch up on the news and socialize with their fellow co-workers. In 2013 we will renovate break rooms at our Chicago and San Francisco hubs as well, and at some of our stations that are undergoing terminal moves. We will also complete at least one break room at each of our other
hubs to give our co-workers a chance to see the new design and features coming their way. This is all part of a multiyear project to renovate the 500 or so break rooms we have around the globe. The investments were making in our co-workers show we value our co-workers, want them to have the tools they need to do their job, and want them to be proud to come to work at United every day. That will result in be er customer service for you. Thanks again for ying with us today. We appreciate your business and hope to see you onboard again soon.
CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES
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VOICES
FLIGHT CHECK Jane Doucette with Jonipher Kwong, the MileagePlus member who nominated her in Uniteds Outperform Recognition Program
A Winning A itude
Delivering excellent customer service is a way of life for ight a endant Jane Douce e
BY ERIN BENSON ll travelers have heard the familiar phrase Sit back, relax and enjoy the ight, spoken just a er their ight takes to the air. But for flight a endant Jane Douce e, it isnt a clichits a personal reminder of a great responsibility, and a call to action. She comes to work every day with a positive a itude and a determination to make sure that every customer whose comfort and safety have been entrusted to her and her fellow crew members really does enjoy the ight. Doucettes positive attitude recently paid offliterallywhen she walked away with $50,000 for being named the rst grand prize winner in Uniteds Outperform Recognition Program. Through the Outperform program, MileagePlus members may nominate an employee for excellent service on their flight, on the phone, at the airport or at any point in their experience with United. Doucette grew up in the Philippines in what she describes as a very
hospitality-driven culture. My parents owned a restaurant, and for years I grew up watching my mother as she interacted with customers and made them feel at home, she recalls. That instilled in me the love of being around people and a desire to make sure everyone feels welcome and has a good time. Naturally, due to her love of people and welcoming nature, Doucette was encouraged to pursue a career as a ight a endant. But she wasnt sure if the lifestylewith its frequent travel and time away from homewas for her. Friends used to say that being a ight a endant would suit me, but I didnt know if I could get used to all the travel, she says. I moved to the U.S. to go to college and pursued various careers, but something seemed to be missing. One day I thought, OK, maybe I should give this ight a endant thing a try. And Ive never looked back. The airline industry o en a racts people who like the idea of having breakfast
on one side of the Atlantic and dinner on the other, but travel isnt Douce es highest priority. I enjoy making people happy, she says. And I get the opportunity to do that all day long. I couldnt ask for a more fullling or fun way to spend my time. If you start the day with the right a itude, its tough to have a bad day. Doucette has spent 18 years in this customer-facing joba length of time in which one would assume any ight a endant, no ma er how friendly, would have come across a bad ight or two. I get that question a lot, since I have nothing but great things to say about my job and my customers, Douce e says. In an ideal world, I would deny ever having a bad ight, but thats a li le unrealistic a er so many years of ying. Sure, Ive run into the occasional traveler who is impossible to please, but thats pre y rare. Most of the time, even if I cant solve their issue, people appreciate that I care and I tried my best to help.
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CONNECTIONS
ASK THE PILOT
With Captain Mike Bowers
Q: On occasion I have been on airplanes that, after pushing back from the gate at my home airport of Newark, moved ahead of others already waiting in line to take off. What circumstances would cause a plane to jump the line? A: Normally, takeoff order is as simple as rst come, rst served. But at busier airports like Newark (EWR), where air traffic controllers blend departures with those from LaGuardia and JFK, there may be openings on some departure routes and delays on others. To manage that, EWR controllers may instruct an aircraft to bypass the one thats rst in line to take off. In addition, air traffic controllers may meter aircraft at certain times to reduce the waiting that might result from weather or traffic delays. Although it might seem confusing at times, it is well orchestrated and done to get as many departures off a given runway at any one time, safely.
Measuring Up
IF YOU ARE SITTING on an aircra oering United Economy Plus, you (or the person si ing next to you) may be part of the reason that extra-legroom seating even exists. Customer feedback from post-travel surveys showed that those in Economy Plus were more satised with their ights. Our frequent yers are very passionate about ying, and they typically have a lot to say about it, says Customer Insights Senior Manager Ma Hadeld, who spends a good part of his day poring over the surveys. Shortly after a MileagePlus member travels on a direct ight, United sends him or her an email invitation to oer feedback. More than 8,000 customers each day rank their experience with the airline on a scale of 1 to 10. In a text box that allows for open commenting, customers provide a wide range of feedback. United uses sophisticated text-recognition so ware to read that feedbackand act on it. Such commentary inuences every part of the customer experience, as United uses travelers feedback to continue to tweak its service. Hence the installation of more premium-cabin at-bed seats than any other U.S. carrier, and the addition of satellite Wi-Fi on some 300 airplanes this year. And feedback has also played a role in the airlines oering of two other customer favorites: tapas snack boxes and the Thaistyle chicken wrap. If you like them, surveys show that youre not alone.
Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? You can write to him at askthepilot@united.com.
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DISPATCHES
DESTINATIONS ADVENTURES FOOD & DRINK
First public pay phone installed at a bank in Hartford, Conn.
$
Alexander Graham Bell makes worlds first phone call
Number of U.S. pay phones reaches 1 million

$
Motorola exec Martin Cooper makes worlds first cellphone call
Number of U.S. cellphone users is about 92,000
ALEXANDER GRA
1876
Number of U.S. cellphone users reaches 290 million+
HAM BELL
1889
Cellphone-only residences account for more than 25% of U.S. households Less than 13% of U.S. households are landline-only
1960
Americans spend an average of 826 minutes a month making cellphone calls
1973
97% of U.S. households have a landline phone
1984
Number of U.S. pay phones peaks at about 2.6 million
$
2011
2010
Americans spend an average of 681 minutes a month making cellphone calls
2007
2001
Smartphones overtake basic cellphones for the first time, accounting for more than 55% of all handsets sold in the U.S.
1998
Number of U.S. pay phones drops to about 425,000
2012
Half of U.S. adults own smartphones; smartphones account for 80% of all devices sold by Verizon Wireless and AT&T
One in five U.S. smartphone owners access Twitter on their devices; the number of people accessing Facebook on their mobile phones monthly reaches 543 million worldwide (a 67% increase over the previous year)
A survey reveals that smartphone users spend an average of 25 minutes a day browsing the Internet, more than twice the amount of time they spend making telephone calls. Also beating out talk time: social networking, playing games and listening to music.
CALL SIGNS
This month in 1876, at his lab in Boston, Alexander Graham Bell made the worlds rst telephone call, to assistant Thomas Watson. In the decades that followed, the U.S. has seen the rise and fall of pay phones, the laying and abandonment of landlines, and most recently the marked and perhaps terminal decline of the phone call itself. (Not to worry: Well have perfected telepathy in the next century anyhow.)
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GLOBETROTTING
ABU DHABI
BUNKER MENTALITY
The joys of playing golf in a course-size sand trap
BY RICHARD WHITEHEAD
THERES A LOT of give on that brown, says Rob Jennings. Youll want to aim at the area around the broomstick. The terminology might sound a little odd, but then the Al Ghazal Golf Club is an odd place. One of the worlds few sand golf courses, this Abu Dhabi institution has its origins in the early 1960s, during the onset of the United Arab Emirates oil boom. In recent years, Al Ghazal has been overshadowed by the plush grass courses that have sprung up around the country, and there are rumors that it will close this year to make way for a new property development. There was little danger of falling victim to urban sprawl 50 years ago, when a handful of expat golng
enthusiasts rst carved 18 holes out of the desert sand here. The place was empty, says club manager Angela Scurr. It was the people who put it all together. They were the pioneers. In the early days, club members would bring their own strips of Astroturf to use as portable fairways. Over time, though, these were abandoned as the golfers like the desert lark and the sand boa before themadapted to the conditions. In place of greens, for instance, they created browns: sand mixed with oil and tamped down. After every putt, players must walk off single le, the last man dragging a broom behind him to smooth the surface.
Al Ghazal also has a host of unusual hazards, many of which are unique to the course. Among these are dhub burrows, named for the large, spiny-tailed desert lizards that call them home; if your ball trickles down one of the burrows, its best to take a drop. Then theres the fact that the front nine holes surround an archaeological site, which contains scattered pottery shards and stone tools alongside stray golf balls. Asked whether Al Ghazal itself will soon become a historical footnote, Scurr says absolutely notthough she allows that certain people have plans for the land it occupies. For Jennings, a Jamaican national whos been a member of the club for eight years and who is considered by some to be its best player, the only concern right now is the tricky putt facing him on the nal hole. Jennings sinks it and does a little st pump, then reaches for a broomstick, with which he brushes away the footprints hes left behind.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI
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DISPATCHES || GLOBETROTTING
LOS ANGELES
STAR GRAZING
THE SECRET TO A SUCCESSFUL AWARDS-SHOW MEAL? HOLD THE PARSLEY In the lead-up to this years Screen Actors Guild Awards show, the red carpet at the Shrine Auditorium is a mob scene of famous folks decked out in designer nery. One attendee in particular stands out, possibly because shes the only one whose ensemble is spattered with sauce. Suzanne Goin, a James Beard Awardwinning chef and co-owner of L.A. celeb-magnet Lucques, is on her fourth stint as caterer for the SAG Awardsand she knows how to work a red carpet. I always
make the food look k good for a big, wide-angle gle shot, she says, holding a platter and moving through gh the surging crowd with remarkable ease. Goin and her crew ew have already had a busy day. They spent the morning rning preparing 1,200 plates ates of beef, beets and slow-roasted w-roasted salmon in a Beverly y Hills kitchen, then trucked ked it all over to an enclosure re in the Shrine parking lot for plating. Now the food ood is being delivered to the tables before guests ts are seated, to be eaten aten during the show.
We make a huge eff e ort to keep the whole thing from looking th sloppy, sloppy, Goin says. You want three things thin on that one plate, barely touc touching, to make it not look like meal. lik ke a kids k Equally important: No scraps im of food must sully a celebritys Valentino or, worse, get wedged between an award recipients teeth. We did a lot lo of no-parsley, Goin says of this y years menu. We did a beef tenderloin, tenderlo thinly sliced, so it can be eaten eate with just a fork. For all the t pressure she faces during these events, Goin nds th that they do have a signicant upside. Sometimes, she says, we get to eat what we serve.
MICHAEL KAPLAN MICHAE
NEW YORK CITY
STRANGE REQUESTS
An electro-pop band puts on an unorthodox show for hotel guests
Jason Huber and Jordan Kelley have developed a habit of singing in unlikely places. The Nashvillebased electro-pop duo known as Cherub has performed on a Ferris wheel, in hot tubs and at a hair salon in Guadalajara. Accordingly, the musicians seem at ease with their latest gig: a two-day residency at the W in
Times Square, during which theyll be the hotels Human Jukebox. Wearing neon-laced high-tops and draped with gold chains, Huber and Kelley take requests via Twi erguests tweet their location in the hotel and the song they want playedthen show up and start warbling. Tunes performed include covers of songs by Frankie Valli, Cyndi Lauper and Outkast, as well as Cherub originals. When asked what they do when not performing weird gigs, the 24-year-old Huber responds, Whiskey, champagne and shenanigans. Kelley, 25, solemnly agrees. Over the course of an evening, theres hardly a single spot in the
hotel that the Human Jukebox isnt summoned to. There are performances in the tness center and the lobby, and even atop a luggage cart that ends up being rolled out the front door and through Times Square. The two musicians remain unfazedalthough Huber admits that he nds being asked to perform in the elevator a li le creepy. The following morning, the Human Jukebox transforms into the Human Alarm Clock, ready to deploy to guests rooms to belt out wake-up songs in bathrobes, slippers and argyle socks. Just before the rst call of the day, the duo admit they didnt get much sleep the night before. Dear Body, Kelley sings, closing his eyes and trembling with feigned emotion. Sorry for last night. I know what I did just wasnt right. JAMES STURZ
FALLEN ARCHES THE DEMISE OF THE WORLDS MOST GLAMOROUS BURGER JOINT
MILAN A young man is standing between a bulls hind legsor, specically, the legs of a bull mosaic on the oor of the Galleria Vi orio Emanuele II, a chic shopping arcade in this Italian city. Its tradition that if you spin around three times you will have good luck, explains his female companion. The mans spinning, though,
keeps ge ing interrupted by the crowd making its way into a nearby caf, which has ornate moldings, arched windows and a golden M. Milans McDonalds might be the worlds most stylish fast-food joint which still isnt stylish enough for this city, apparently. The eatery is bowing out
to make way for a Prada store, and the people jostling to get inside are here for the closing-down burgers being handed out. The guy standing on the mosaic, hampered by the crowd, does not get to complete his good-luck twirl. He also fails to get a free Big Mac. The myth of the bull, it appears, is true. JAMES WILLIAMS
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DISPATCHES || GLOBETROTTING
MOROCCO
CROCUS ACT
HARVESTING SAFFRON DEEP IN THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS Khadouj, who believes she is at least 70 years old, can still touch her toes. Right now shes bent double, elbowdeep in a spray of purple crocuses. Showing half a mouthful of teeth in a sun-scorched, plumpish face with impressive furrows, Khadouj is smiling. Shes happy because the annual saffron harvest has begun, providing much-needed employment for residents of Tnine de lOurika, a crumbling Berber village in one of the valleys of Moroccos Atlas Mountains. During the three-week harvest, dozens of women from the community will reap 800,000 crocuses, extracting about 6 kilograms of the precious strands of saffron, a spice that can fetch up to $12 per gram. Khadouj and her workmates each earn about $4 per day. Picking begins at daybreak, when the petals are still closed; inside are the lament-like structures called stigmas that, when dried, are known as saffron. By 9 a.m. its over, explains farm manager Mohammed Mador, as he ambles through gardens bursting with aromatic plants beneath olive and citrus trees. Once the ower opens, the stigmas will be damaged by the sun.
The heaps of owers are then taken aside and, one by one, the stigmas are extracted, a task seen as womens workostensibly because their hands are daintier. It takes 40 women to harvest one hectare of owers and extract the three laments from each ower, Mador says. Back in the crocus patch, Khadouj is upright, holding her back; when asked if it aches, she shrugs. Her rugged hands reect a lifetime of dough-kneading and clothesscrubbing. Soon Khadouj is bent over again, as she and the others get on with the job in a gust of chatter and song. OLIVIA GUNNING BENNANI
THE BIG BONK FROM A DINGED CHEVY TO UNLUCKY REINDEER, A LOOK AT THE IMPACT OF SPACE ROCKS
At the time of this writing, an asteroid 150 feet across was hurtling toward our planet, E.T.A. Feb. 15. Hopefully, it didnt hit us. But there have been many instances of space objects that did collide with Earth, most notably the asteroid blamed for wiping out the dinosaurs 65 million years ago, as well as the 1972 meteorite that had a similar eect on a Venezuelan cow. And while we may have the deepest sympathy for the Milanese monk reputedly dispatched by a space rock in 1650, we can also take comfort in the fact that human casualties have been exceedingly rare. CHRIS WRIGHT
AMOUNT OF INNOCUOUS SPACE DUST, IN TONS, THAT CLATTERS INTO EARTH DAILY
ESTIMATED NUMBER OF METEORITES THAT FALL TO EARTH ANNUALLY
100300
500
DIAMETER, IN INCHES, OF REPORTED INCIDENTS OF A METEORITE THAT HIT A SPACE ROCKS HITTING COWS, SLEEPING ALABAMA WOMAN INCLUDING ONE CONFIRMED IN 1954, BRUISING HER HIP FATALITY IN VENEZUELA
AMOUNT PAID AT AUCTION FOR A PIECE OF THE VENEZUELAN COWKILLING METEORITE
7
AMOUNT SHE SOLD THE CAR FOR, POST-METEORITE
2
ESTIMATED NUMBER OF TREES FLATTENED BY A METEOR IMPACT IN 1908 IN TUNGUSKA, SIBERIA
$1,375
AMOUNT PAID AT AUCTION FOR A PIECE OF THE METEORITE THAT HIT A CAR IN NEW YORK STATE IN 1992
AMOUNT THE OWNER OF THAT 1980 CHEVY MALIBU HAD PAID FOR THE CAR
$16,250
20
$400
$10,000
ESTIMATED NUMBER OF REINDEER FATALLY INJURED IN THE TUNGUSKA EVENT
80 MILLION
1,000
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ROAD TRIP
CHASING THE BLUES

MISSISSIPPI
Taking a devilish Lexus GS 350 into the heart of the Delta

BY MICHAEL KAPLAN
Its 8 in the morning on a Friday in New Orleans, and Im in a bind. In my hand is a sloppy breakfast poboy quickly greasing up a paper bag. At the curb is a brand-new platinum-colored 2013 Lexus GS 350 F Sport with eminently stainable
light-gray leather upholstery. These two things do not go together. So, before hitting the road, I hunt down a newspaper and spread it all over the passenger seat, then across my own lap. Poboys can be highly unpredictable.
23
DISPATCHES || ROAD TRIP
DELTA FORCE The Ground Zero Blues Club in Clarksdale, a town deeply rooted in the history of the Mississippi blues
Being awake this early in the Crescent City is an objectionable state of aairs, but Ive got a long drive ahead of me, six hours north to Clarksdale, Miss., the town with the crossroads where blues legend Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul to the devil in exchange for being able to play guitar like a man possessed. I wouldnt quite call it a hellhound, but there is something faintly devilish about the look of my car for the weekend, particularly around the front end no surprise the styling was inspired by Lexus LFA supercar. A sleekly designed four-door sedan, the GS 350 F Sport is roomy enough for a family and aggressive enough to tear up miles of blacktop. Taking advantage of its link-in with the music streaming service Pandora, I play Delta blues all the way to Mississippi. Three hours into my trip, I notice a sign for Vicksburg. Something about it rings a bell. I pull over and use the cars Enform computer system to do a Bing search. Sure enough, the town has been namechecked in songs by Bob Dylan, Johnny Cash, Tom Waits and Lucinda Williams. Vicksburg it is. I cruise through the pleasant town, with its Civil War battlefield and rows of beautiful old antebellum homes, and happen upon a seafood and chop house called Rustys Riverfront Grill. Its friendly
and unpretentious, with home-baked pies cooling up front. I order a gargantuan fried shrimp sandwich that I swear to the waitress I wont be able to nish, but do so anyway. Good luck, she says, as I waddle out a erward. In no time Im again motoring up Highway 61, a road lined with verdant fields punctuated with beaten-down shacks and heaps of disused farm equipment.
Grain silos slide in and out of view. Zipping past a picturesque li le post oce with a single mailbox in front, I suddenly remember a postcard that needs to be sent. Oversize brakes and the Lexus Dynamic Handling System, which calculates optimal wheel angles, help me execute a ashy 180-degree turn that would have done Jason Bourne proud. When I reach the turno for Indianola, a town that teemed with blues performers back in the early 1900s, I take it and follow the cars GPS guidance to the B.B. King Museum. There, I take in multimedia presentations on what life was like on the Chitlin Circuit, check out a re-creation of Kings recording studio, and peruse the blues maestros guitars and stage costumes. Its a ing tribute to a man born into a co on-picking family who rose to unimaginable heights. As daylight wanes, I steer the Lexus into the parking lot of Clarksdales Shack Up Inn, an intentionally rustic, blues-themed hotel where you can overnight in an original sharecroppers shack or a repurposed co on gin. My room is cozy and comfortable, but Ive got places to be. I drop off my bag and get back into the car, flipping on the near-infrared
TATE ST. & DESOTO N. S AV
GROUND ZERO BLUES CLUB
CLARKSDALE
REDS LOUNGE SHACK UP INN S
ARKANSAS
INDIANOLA
B.B. KING MUSEUM
ALABAMA
RUSTYS RIVERFRONT GRILL
VICKSBURG
MISSISSIPPI
61
LOUISIANA
NEW N NE EW ORLEANS O OR RL LE E AN A NS
START
24
MAP BY JEFF QUINN
E.
ROAD TRIP || DISPATCHES

originals that center on the usual blues themes of love, murder and redemption. Theres barely a moments pause between numbers and Walker isnt one for stage patter, but the people are deep into it nonetheless. The night goes on like this for some time. Late the next morning, bleary-eyed and back on the road, Im looking for the spot where Johnson reputedly made his fateful pact. Though I worried it might be hard to nd, apparently soul-selling isnt the discreet business one might expect: Three giant guitars above a couple of small trees mark the site of the original crossroads. I park in the lot of Abes Bar-B-Q and walk to the landmark, waiting for something to overtake me, for a deal to be proeredbut my soul remains intact. So I do what anyone in my position would do. I retreat to Abes for a plate of devilishly good ribs.
MICHAEL KAPLAN is a writer in Brooklyn whose work has appeared in Wired, Details and the New York Times.
BOARDING PASS For music buffs longing to roam the land where blues was born, New Orleans is an ideal jumpingoff point for cruising the Mississippi Deltaand United can get you there with nonstop service to the Big Easy from all eight of its U.S. hubs. To see schedules or book your ight, go to united.com.
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night view lights to illuminate a bit of pitch-black road. I make the short drive to Ground Zero, a blues club bankrolled by Morgan Freeman. Inside, a righteoussounding blues combo rips it up onstage. Theyre good and the vibe is ne; frankly, though, Im looking for something a bit more down-home. I ask around, and eventually wind up at a joint called Reds Lounge. Its stripped down, cramped and hot. Folks sit on metal folding chairs, and a hat gets passed around for donations. Onstage, bathed in red and yellow light, is Robert Bilbo Walker. With a de touch on his ba ered guitars fretboard, he growls his way through standards like Lucille and
LEXUS GS 350 F SPORT

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WORLD CLASS ITALIAN & JAPANESE DINING IN THE HEART OF CHICAGO
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STAY
THIS MONTHS HOTTEST HOTELS

JERUSALEM
MAMILLA HOTEL
BACKSTORY:
Opened in 2009, this ve-star hotel is at the heart of an ambitious (if overdue) scheme to redevelop Mamilla, a 19th-century neighborhood near Jerusalems Old City that was heavily damaged during years of Arab-Israeli ghting.
DESIGN NOTES:
The challenge in a city like Jerusalem is to embrace history without ge ing bogged down in it. The Mamilla expertly manages this by marrying the traditional (walls of Jerusalem stone) with modern design elements (sleek black staircases, glass-and-steel ceilings).
WHAT YOULL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The trendy
IDEAL GUEST:
The Mamilla is unquestionably a stylish placeyou wont nd shopping area Mamilla Avenue is seconds away. any fanny-pack types milling about the lobby. Walk a bit farther and Even the most wellyoull reach the Jaa dressed guests, however, Gate and the Old City, home to the Dome of the cant resist nerding out on the amazing history Rock, the Western Wall thats practically on the and a maze of ancient hotels doorstep. alleys and bazaars.
BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT:

Itd be tough to get a be er view of Jerusalem than the one from the Mamillas roof. Part of the space is a sundeck; the rest is a restaurant and bar whose vistas are especially impressive at night, when the walls of the Old City are lit up.
27
DISPATCHES || STAY
BACKSTORY: A candidate for BRETTON New HampWOODS, N.H. shires state symbol ever since the Old Man of the Mountain collapsed in 2003, this Spanish Renaissance hotel in the White Mountains has itself irted with ruin in its 111-year history. It was famously rescued from nancial downfall in 1944, when it was given the high-prole honor of hosting the conference that created the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund. DESIGN NOTES: Resembling a cross between the White House and a hunting lodge, the vaguely Federal-style lobby is generously accented with yawning replaces and cozy alpine motifs. AMAZING AMENITY: The 25,000-squarefoot full-service spa allows guests to select herbs from the grounds for farmto-facial treatments; the Mountain Mist product line used here is derived from candytu , ne le and other local ora. HOT PLATE: While chops of all kinds are a claim to fame for steakhouse Stickneys, the nearby Omni Bre on Arms Inn oers a rib-eye to climb mountains for.
Omni Mount Washington Resort
ANTIGUA
HERMITAGE BAY
WHAT YOULL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The resort is surrounded by hundreds of acres of verdant, undeveloped land, ensuring unmarred natural beauty everywhere you look. IDEAL GUEST: Those seeking privacy with their luxury will appreciate the fact that there are only 25 stand-alone suites and co ages here. Guests who enjoy the hospitality of an unpretentious, familial-seeming sta will be even more delighted. ROOM WITH A VIEW: Tucked into a hillside and boasting a private plunge pool, the spacious and well-appointed bungalow Suite 31 looks out on both bay and lagoon, giving you an unbeatable vantage from which to watch yachts sail into the marina at sunset. HOT PLATE: The menu changes daily according to whats most abundant in the on-site organic garden and what helps achieve the resorts goal of zero food miles. This means that while you were daydreaming in your hillside villa, the cockles in tonights soup were being shed out of the lagoon below. UNEXPECTED TREAT: Mojitos and cool, almond-scented towels are proered upon check-in, making quick work of any jet lag.
SIGNATURE COCKTAIL: The Cave, set in a former Prohibition-era speakeasy, mixes a high-octane Prohibition Punch, served in a dainty teacup and limited to one per customer.
28
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FOOD & DRINK
CALIFORNIA
A LITTLE BIT SOFTER NOW

Northern California winemakers tone down their approach
BY MICHAEL KAPLAN
DRIVE DOWN THE BYWAYS of the Napa and Sonoma valleys at the right time of year, and youll pass vines heavy with glistening grapes just waiting to be turned into the big, tannic, high-alcohol winesgenerally cabernets and zinfandelsthat have made the region famous. These days, though, youre also liable to spot a few vines that have been stripped of fruit early. These point up a new movement afoot in Northern California a burgeoning faction of vintners interested in making more balanced vintages (read: less jammy, sun-ripened and strong). One such producer is Jamie Kutch, a former Wall Street trader who launched Kutch Wines. Though now hes a
purveyor of lighter, more finicky pinot noirs, Kutchs early oerings were big and rich in the classic California style. There was only one problem, he says: I didnt like them. So when producing his 2007 releases, Kutch experimented by picking an acre of his grapes earlier. He also watered less, to push the grapes to develop flavor quickly without becoming too sugary. Satisfied with the results from his first acre, he picked everything earlier the next year and has been proceeding in that manner ever since.
SOMETIMES A GRAPE NOTION Inman Family Wines vineyard; inset, vintages from balanceminded winemakers
SARA SANGER (VINEYARD)
31
DISPATCHES || FOOD & DRINK
SQUASH PRO Jamie Kutch, founder of Kutch Wines
Kutch and other advocates of balance have also been pushing back against what they argue is the overly intense oak avor that o en turns up in California vintages. To reduce it, Kutch ages 30 percent of his early-picked grapes in new oak and the rest in barrels that are three to ve years old. He also ages the wines with grape stems to further so en their taste proles. Asked to describe what he likes about his new, lighter, less oaky vintages, Kutch says theyre cleaner and more precise. Theyre probably also easier to sell. Well-structured wines like these have been experiencing a renaissance among restaurateurs and wine buyers, who nd that they pair well with a vast array of foods rather than just the traditional charbroiled slab of rib-eye. I think of short ribs when I make my pinot noir, says Kathleen Inman, whose Inman Family Wines shares Kutchs philosophy. But with the chardonnay, just for kicks I paired it with true-bu er popcornand that worked. For me, wine enhances food. Im not one for si ing on the porch and sipping it, says Chris Howell, who chose to plant the vines for Cain Vineyard and Winery on a mountaintop estate above Napa Valley to encourage more balance in his wines. Good wine is not about power or complexityits linked to the wines nish and character. The wines that seduce you are the ones that stick with you.
BOARDING PASS If California wine country is calling you, United can get you there via its San Francisco hub, which features daily service from dozens of cities worldwide. In booking your ight, consider ying Economy Plus and see what other travelers are talking about. Youll savor more room to relax and recline, and youll be seated near the front of the cabin so you can exit the plane more swiftly at your destination. To see detailed schedule information or to purchase tickets, go to united.com.
THE TIPPLING POINT At Napa Valleys Lucy Restaurant & Bar
GETTING FIZZY WITH IT

Spicing up wine spritzers for classic-cocktail fans Wine spritzers suer from an image problem: Though delicious, theyre associated with a bit of a boring day wedding demographic. In other words, youd never expect to see a rock star downing a wine spritzer onstage. In Napa Valley, though, where wine is paramount, mixologist Vincent Lee of Yountvilles Lucy Restaurant & Bar thought to update the staple with grapefruit juice and a dash of sage liqueur, pushing the humble spritzer into spunky New York Sour territory.
YOUNTVILLE SPRITZ
1 oz. sage liqueur 1 oz. grapefruit juice 2 oz. Domaine Carneros Brut Ros oz. simple syrup Club soda, to taste Grapefruit slice
Combine liqueur, juice, wine and simple syrup and pour over ice. Top with soda and garnish with grapefruit slice.
32
DISPATCHES || FOOD & DRINK
THE BEST OF THE WEST

At an eatery with a Napa-only wine list, California is king
BY JOHN CAPONE Youd think that placing a Napa Valley only limit on a restaurant wine list would constitute an unwelcome constraint in the eyes of sommeliers, but Kelli White and Sco Brenner of Press in St. Helena, Calif., have accepted the challenge with enthusiasm. A er moving to Napa from New York in 2010 to launch Press wine program, the two have assembled the largest collection of Napa bottles in wine country, with vintages going back to the 1940s. We both had tasted older California wine on the East Coast, but the quality out here, where the wines had moved less than a few miles in their existence, was so much be er, says White. Inspired, they set about snapping up cellar collections as they became available and urging wineries to part with older artifacts. The mission led to some exciting discoveries: ve decades of cabernet from the same winery, for instance, and a few bo les of California grignolino (a tannic red rarely found outside Italys Piedmont region). The project kept getting more and more compelling brands wed never heard of, bizarre varieties that were here before cabernet and chardonnay mania wiped them all out, White says. Last year Press unveiled its new 10,000bottle cellar, accessible via an iPad wine list, and with it the true scope of White and Brenners work. The collection represents the region in a way few restaurant wine lists can; enjoying it, with the help of the two curators, is like tasting a museum exhibit. And the hunt is far from over. Were still being surprised by the weird things we uncover, White says.
CELLAR DWELLERS Press dauntingly extensive stash of Napa wines
Olive a Sudden
Meet the newest addition to wine countrys top oerings
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA is justiably famous for its wines, but its temperate climate and rich soil are notable for producing another Mediterranean staple: olive oil. Like West Coast wines, these oils have unique characteristics. The best stuff tends to capture the fresh fruit avor of the olive, says Paul Vossen, a UC Cooperative Extension adviser. This may stem from the fact that California producers usually make their oil with stainless steel equipment instead of wood, which is favored in Greece, Spain and Italy.
tastingmuch of this diversity was wiped out in order to produce as many award-winning Winemakers diversify their wines as possible. portfoliosby planting But in the past 10 vegetables years, the tide has Napa Valley just begun to turn. 40 years ago was Progressive a vastly different winemakers have landscape from started diversifytoday. Acres of ing their crops. orchards, elds After having of produce and soil trouble, John thousands of oak trees Williams, owner of once competed for space SOIL SPORT Frogs Leap, a winery in with vineyards. However, John Williams, the Rutherford district, owner of following the regions rise stopped using chemicals Frogs Leap to fame on the heels of and irrigation, planted 1976s Judgment of Pariswhen acres of fruit and vegetables some Napa wines bested adjacent to the vines, and their French counterparts in a allowed cover crops to
GROWTH INDUSTRY
34
PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY
SLIPPERY BUSINESS A sampling of McEvoy Ranchs lauded olive oils
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The gold standard might well be found at McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma, stocked with gnarled olive trees imported from Tuscany and planted more than 20 years ago. The ranch grows six olive varieties, then blends them to make a single oil in a process very similar to the making of cuve wine. In fact, at least one description, from foodie website Bite of the Best, sounds an awful lot like a wine tasting blurb, positing that McEvoys product expresses aromas of parsley, cut grass and fresh basil as well as avors of artichoke. M.K.
proliferate. The vintners at Raymond Vineyards, Boisset Family Estates, Trefethen Family Vineyards and Cakebread Cellars were already making similar changes. And before long, all-purpose farm-wineries like Long Meadow Ranchwhich raises cows and chickens in addition to growing olives, grapes and vegetables began to pop up. Best of all, much of the resulting produce has ended up in stores and on restaurant tables, a boon for a regional dining scene thats long leaned toward locavorism. Frogs Leap, for instance, takes produce from its three acres of gardens and sells it at the St. Helena Farmers Market. Cooked into a hearty meal, its perfect for pairing withyou guessed itNapa Valley wines. J.C.
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culture
ARTS MEDIA EVENTS
THE MONTH AHEAD
All Things T Bright and Beautiful

Chicagos Field Museum shows visitors the light
If the ferocious success of the movie Avatar proved anything, its that you can never overestimate the allure of glowing wildlife. In the non-CGI world, glow worms and reies have a similar appeal. The Field Museum in Chicago taps into our love of self-illuminating cri ers with Creatures of Light: Natures Bioluminescence, an exhibit that showcases scorpions, mushrooms, dinoagellates and more. It also features a re-creation of New Zealands glow wormlled Waitomo cave system, an interactive model of Puerto Ricos bioluminescent Mosquito Bay and the ethereal rey photographs of Tsuneaki Hiramatsu (like the one above), all of which are sure to put visitors in mind of a lazy summer eveningon a faraway planet. march 7
TSUNEAKI HIRAMATSU
37
culture || THE MONTH AHEAD Talk Box
The Man Who Filled the Earth

The only problem with the V&As 300-item David Bowie retrospective? It had to leave 74,700 items out.
An extraordinary audio document of a turbulent time
DONT BE SURPRISED if sometime in the future we get a DON March holidayZiggy Day, say. Not only is David Bowie new M releasing his first album in a decade this monthending releas speculation that the singer, now 66, has gone pipe-and-slippers specula Londons Victoria and Albert Museum is also unveilon usbut us ing a huge retrospective of his career. The curators of David Bowie Is pored over some 75,000 archival bits and bobs, accumulated by Bowie during half a archi century centu of manic creativity, to arrive at the 300-plus objects meant mean to reveal what the Is is. These range from Bowies Stardust-era psychedelic jumpsuit to the artists own diary Stard entries entr (Friday: Revolutionize popular culture). For F co-curator Victoria Broackes, its the impromptu stu stu that brings the show to life. Its extraordinary, she says of Bowies handwri en lyrics, seeing the crossingssa out and line changes, how a song thats become part of our lives soundtrack could have been so dierent. Broackes d describes ib Bowie as the dream subject for the V&A. I cannot think of anyonenot just in pop, but in any eldwho has the breadth of inspiration, output and reach that he has, she says. He worked on so many things, t gs, o en at once. It really is astonishing. MARCH 23
Howard Smith talked to everyone. During the 60s and 70s, the Oscar-winning director, writer and broadcaster used his national radio show to explore cultural upheaval, si ing down with the likes of John Lennon and Yoko Ono (above), Janis Joplin and Norman Mailer; and catching Dennis Hopper right a er Easy Rider premiered at Cannes, Pete Townshend a er The Who played the Met, and Andy Warhol subsequent to his shooting. Decades later, a crate of tapes from the show was discovered in Smiths Manhattan lo , and, following a Kickstarter campaign, they have been restored, edited and issued in the form of a mammoth, rolling 100-part digital release on Amazon and iTunes (theres a 12-disc CD box set, too). This month brings the latest in the series, focused on the breathtakingly illfated Rolling Stones concert at Altamont and featuring interviews with Mick, Keith and company, plus the Grateful Deads Jerry Garcia. MARCH 19
Drinks Shoots and Leaves

Primo cocktails dont just grow on treesthey also come from roots, grasses and a host of other leafy and twiggy bits, as Amy Stewart reveals in The Drunken Botanist: The Plants That Create the Worlds Great Drinks. Here, the pop horticulturist suggests a few regional specialties for globe-tro ing tipplers. march 19
China: Proposing a toast? Lift a glass of the blazingly strong sorghum spirit maotai. Sorghums a decidedly unglamorous grain, but thanks to its hardiness its widely fermented and distilled across Asia and Africa. And maotais meant to be downed in one gulp no sipping!
Quebec: Proving that folks will ferment whatevers growing nearby, local bars in this Canadian sugar maple mecca serve up all kinds of libations made from the trees syrup: a rich maple syrup liqueur, maple rye whiskey and (surprisingly good) wines made from the rst spring sap.
Poland: Dont leave Warsaw without trying zubrowka, a vodka avored with a sweet wild bison grass from the nearby Bialowieza Forest. A herd of endangered European bison feed on the grass, but dont worrystrict protections ensure that theres enough for both animals and distillers.
38
!S THE WORLDS PREMIER AERONAUTICAL UNIVERSITY %MBRY 2IDDLE IS SOMETHING OF A STAR IN THE WORLDOFFLIGHT4HEREAREMANYREASONSFORTHIS /NE IS A PROGRAM CALLED .EXT'EN .EXT'EN WILL TRANSFORMAIRTRAFFICCONTROLFROMTODAYSGROUND RADAR BASEDSYSTEMTOASATELLITE BASEDSYSTEM 5SING'03FORNAVIGATIONTHESYSTEMWILLALLOWAIRCRAFT TO FLY SHORTER MORE DIRECT ROUTES AND ENABLE MORE EFFICIENT RUNWAY USE THEREBY REDUCING FUEL BURNED CARBON EMISSIONS AND NOISE 9ES AT %MBRY 2IDDLE WEAIMFORTHESTARS"UTWEALWAYSKEEPHOMECLOSE TOOURHEARTS
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W W W E M B R Y R I D D L E E D U N EX T G E N
culture || THE MONTH AHEAD
Stop Me if Youve Seen This One Before

A slew of this months movies come from directors known for their big debutsbut just how far have they moved on?
LITERARY PITCHES
To honor the return of Americas pastime at the end of this month: three brand-new baseball books and the fans most likely to deem them a hit BASEBALL AS A ROAD TO GOD: Putting his popular college seminar into book form, NYU president John Sexton references everyone from Thomas Aquinas to Tug McGraw in exploring the games spiritual side (think: faith, miracles, conversions). Great for: Anyone whos ever found religion at the bottom of the ninth. MARCH 7 WHOS ON WORST? Butterngers and knuckleheads, beware: Filip Bondy lists the games all-time stinkers lousiest pitcher, most despicable owner, etc.and backs it up with his cred as a longtime New York Daily News columnist. Great for: Hard-core hecklers. MARCH 26 INSIDE THE BASEBALL HALL OF FAME: Both the esoteric (an 1887 umpires ball/strike counter) and the epic (Babe Ruths silver crown) are represented in this visual anthology of relics from the Cooperstown shrine. Great for: Those whod happily watch all 18 hours of Ken Burns Baseball in one go. APRIL 2
Bob Byington Harmony and Me

(2009)
Derek Cianfrance Blue Valentine

(2010)
Paul Weitz American Pie

(1999)
Harmony Korine Gummo

(1997)
Sam Raimi The Evil Dead

(1987)
Bryan Singer The Usual Suspects

(1995)
G D E R E
O F
D I F F
R E N C E
Somebody Up There Likes Me

(MARCH 12)
The Place Beyond the Pines

(MARCH 20)
Admission
(MARCH 8)
Spring Breakers
(MARCH 22)
Same quirky, deadpan dialogue but better lm stock. And with Nick Offerman wearing glasses.
Bleak romantic drama gives way to bleak crime drama, but when you have Ryan Gosling in your only two feature lms, range is beside the point.
Tina Fey and Paul Rudd are not only more likable than the goofballs in Weitzs rst feature, theyre also far less likely to debase a certain iconic American foodstuff.
Oz the Great and Powerful

(MARCH 8)
Jack the Giant Slayer

(MARCH 1)
Narrative was once a dirty word for the edgy Korine, whose new project features a quartet of coed robbers and something resembling a plot. Weird!
Though it does involve witches, this prequel to one of the most kid-friendly movies ever could hardly be further from Raimis gory, schlocky origins.
Singers air for neo-noir seems well suited to dark fairy tales, but not even Keyser Sze would have seen Jack and the Beanstalk coming.
SOME HAVE MANY HANDS REACHING FROM THE BEDSIDE AND OTHERS HAVE NONE, AND YET IN THAT FINAL MOMENT, THE AIR HEAVY AND LADEN AS MOLECULES REGROUP AND RESHAPE IN PREPARATION FOR THE EXIT, IT IS ALL THE SAME. IT IS LIKE THE MOMENT WHEN A SNAKE ENTERS THE YARD AND THE BIRDS FALL SILENT. From Life A er Life, a rare new novel
from the inuential Southern author Jill McCorkle. march 26
40
WE HAVE THE BACKBONE.

We continually push the boundaries of neuroscience.
At the Mischer Neuroscience Institute at Memorial HermannTexas Medical Center, we have a reputation for innovation. We were selected to participate in the nations first multi-center trial to study the use of hypothermia following head injury. We established one of the first dedicated stroke programs in the world. We orchestrate more clinical trials for new multiple sclerosis therapies than anyone in Texas. And we are leaders in performing complex spine surgeries and reconstructions. All of this is enabled by our groundbreaking affiliation with The University of Texas Health Science Center at Houston (UTHealth) Medical School. Together, we make more neuroscience breakthroughs every day. Learn more at neuro.memorialhermann.org.
NEUROSCIENCE BREAKTHROUGHS EVERY DAY
culture || THE MONTH AHEAD
Tale of the Tape

MOVIES Gomorrah director Matteo Garrones festival fave Reality, which takes a sideways look at reality TV culture // The Incredible Burt Wonderstone, in which Steve Carrell and Jim Carrey try to out-nyuk each other BOOKS Rest in Pieces: The Curious Fates of Famous Corpses, a lighthearted look at death, by Bess Lovejoy // The novel The Obituary Writer, a notso-lighthearted look at death, by Ann Hood MUSIC Nanobots, the 16th studio album by veteran indie imps They Might Be Giants // Best of the BBC Vaults: Ella Fitzgerald, a compilation of vintage TV footage, released on CD and DVD
Dave Grohls directorial debut is an ode to analog
A L S O O U T T H I S M O N T H
WITH ITS FLEA-BITTEN COUCHES, rising damp and dubious air qualFOOS ERRAND Musician Grohl, ity, the Van Nuys, Calif., recording right, ponders a studio Sound City wasnt the new line of work kind of place youd immediately associate with artistic inspirationeven for artists comfortable being identied with the word grunge. We got there and walked down the hallways and saw all those platinum records, says Dave Grohl, former drummer for Nirvana, recalling the bands arrival at the squalid studio in 1991 to record Nevermind. It was kind of surprising. Despite the studios acoustically imperfect rooms and decades-old Neve analog mixing console, Nevermind went on to become, well, Nevermind. And with its success, another smash record was added to Sound Citys rsum, which included albums by everyone from Fleetwood Mac to Metallica. Eventually, bugs and cigare e burns became the least of Sound Citys worries. Ever since the advent of digital technology, the tape-based recording employed by the studio had been inching toward oblivion. And when Sound City closed in 2011, the fate of its legendary Neve console was uncertain. So Grohl bought it. His decision to assume ownership of this gigantic technological throwback was not entirely sentimental: The Foo Fighters frontman is convinced the T board can continue to produce hits, and to b Keeping It Real al this end he installed it in his own studio, just t outside Los Angeles. o Dave Grohl shares Grohls eorts to acquire the board, his thoughts on meanwhile, led to his making a documentary low-tech wonders about the history of the famous studio, the On Trent Reznor: Hes a brilliant, t recently released Sound City. It was followed brilliant musician who doesnt need by an all-star album, Sound City: Real to Reel, technology. To see him sit down at recorded by some of the musicians featured a piano and play a piece of classical in the lm, including Paul McCartney, Stevie music is jaw-dropping, because he has incredible feel and time and a wonderNicks and Trent Reznor. ful sense of tonality and composition. I didnt think there was a director inside On Muse: That band could come into me, Grohl says. But making the lm was a a studio with a board and a room like pleasure and, honestly, I thought it was easy. Sound Citys and make an album so He goes on to admit that he did receive a powerful it would change the world. li le help along the way. The person most I dont think Muse have to rely on responsible for the arc of the story was my anything but their own hands and their own hearts to make great music. mother, who was a creative-writing teacher, On being Wii-less: You know, the he says. She said, Dont give it away that you pingpong table at my own studio might have the board. Tell the history of the studio be as old as the Neve console from then it closes, then you get the board and Sound City. Ive got to say, Im pretty then you make the record. I was like, Huh. old-school when it comes to pingpong. Thanks, Mom. ALBUM OUT MARCH 12
42
Advertisement
In football and in life, we all have the same goal to be part of a winning team.
People aged 85 and over are the most rapidly growing age group worldwide. 1
Making a difference. Thats what every good team captain wants. To motivate and encourage their players and to ensure that the results they achieve are remembered and make a difference in their life and the lives of others. Right at Home is a respected international care company based in the US with almost 300 offices on 4 continents. It was Right at Homes mission to improve lives and the vast business opportunities available, that convinced Ken Deary to not only join the Right at Home team, but also become the team captain for Right at Home UK. Having been a successful franchisee for McDonalds I learned a lot about franchise systems, training and support. I knew that franchising was the best way to expand a business and I wanted to be a part of that, says Deary. And this time, I wanted to lead my own national team of franchisees. Having seen rst hand with his own family the need for quality in-home care and the lack of good options in his community, Ken recognized immediately the opportunity that Right at Home could give him. Statistics show that the segment of people over the age of 85 is expected to quadruple by the year
The worlds 65 and over population increases by an average of 800,000 people each month. 2
2050. The need for quality in-home senior care has never been needed more than it is now. Right at Home franchisees provide in-home services such as meal preparation, companionship and medication reminders for people needing assistance with everyday tasks, enabling them to remain in the place they are most comfortableright in their own home.
The number of people living with dementia is estimated to double to 66 million by 2030.3
the ultimate goalmaking a difference in his life and the lives of people in the community. When I made the decision to join the Right at Home team I didnt take it lightly, professes Deary. I did a lot of research into the home care industry and found that not only is good in-home care needed now, it is going to be needed even more over the coming decades. This is a high growth area that will provide security for Right at Homes franchisees and a wonderful caring service for the clients who need us. Right at Home has franchises in the US, Brazil, Canada, China and the UK and are looking to expand at home and abroad. Whether you want to captain your own team internationally or would like to join one of our winning teams in the US, Brazil, Canada, China or the UK, Right at Home is looking for compassionate, focused and dedicated players who want to make a difference.
IN 2050 THERE WILL BE 2 BILLION PEOPLE OVER THE AGE OF 60 ON THE PLANET
(compared with 700 million in 2010). When I came across Right at Home, I immediately knew that I had found a winning team. They care about their franchisees, the staff and caregivers and the clients they serve. They are genuine. I loved that. I loved the people and what they stood for. I became an instant fan! proclaims Ken. Ken Deary became the Master License holder (franchisor) for the UK in January 2010. He opened his own pilot unit in April 2010 and has since sold and opened 13 franchises and is aiming for 20 by year end. Hes put together a winning strategy, surrounded himself with star players and has focused on scoring
For more information on Right at Home franchise opportunities visit www.rightathomefranchise.com.

Right at Home, Inc. 6464 Center Street, Suite 150, Omaha, NE 68106. MN# F-4053. This information is not intended as an offer to sell, or the solicitation of an offer to buy a franchise. It is for information purposes only. Please consult your nancial advisor before making any investments. Sources: 1 United Nations, 2 US Census Bureau, 3 World Alzheimers Report
$'9(57,6(0(17
GOODCHOICE
THE NUMBERS ARE IN
9.2% annual growth expected in the childcare industry 14.4 million children in the U.S. are in some form of childcare 3.94 million births per year 65% of mothers with children under age 6 are in the workplace
Jeff and Shauna Barison
Over $220,000* Per our 2012 Franchise Disclosure Document,

Goddard School franchisees realized more than $220,000 average EBITDA** in the year ending December 31, 2011.
*Average based on 2011. As stated in Item 19 of our Franchise Disclosure Document. 155 of 358 (43.3%) of franchises in this group did as well or better than the average. Franchisor cannot predict individual earnings. **Earnings Before Interest, Taxes, Depreciation and Amortization All other materialSource: Marketdata Enterprises, Inc.
KHQ-HIIDQG6KDXQD%DULVRQUVWGHFLGHGWR LGHQWLW\DQGFXOWXUHEXWDOVREHQHWIURPWKHEDFN VWDUWWKHLURZQEXVLQHVVWKH\KDGDIHZJRDOV RIFHVXSSRUWRIDPDMRUFRUSRUDWLRQ:HZRXOGKDYH LQPLQG7KH\ZDQWHGWRPDNHDGLIIHUHQFH QHYHUYHQWXUHGRXWRQRXURZQWRFUHDWHDSUHVFKRRO KDYHDQLPSDFWLQWKHLUFRPPXQLW\XWLOL]HWKHLU IURPWKHJURXQGXS FROOHFWLYHWDOHQWVKDYHDXWRQRP\ 7KHFRPPXQLFDWLRQDQGVXSSRUW LQGHFLVLRQPDNLQJDQGFUHDWHD When we initially discussed KDVEHHQJUHDW7KHEHVWWHVWDPHQW OHJDF\7KHLUVHDUFKIRUWKHULJKW opening a Goddard School, WRWKDWVWDWHPHQWLVWKHIDFWWKDW EXVLQHVVOHGWKHPWR7KH*RGGDUG ZHPDGHWKHGHFLVLRQWRFRQVWUXFW we focused on the family6FKRRO . Jeff and Shauna opened DQGRSHQDVHFRQGVFKRROODVW WKHLUUVW*RGGDUG6FKRROLQ friendly, lifestyle-oriented \HDUDGGV6KDXQD )HEUXDU\DQGWKHLUVHFRQGLQ nature of the business. 1RYHPEHU%RWKVFKRROVDUH :KHQDVNHGWRJLYHDGYLFHWR ORFDWHGLQ5HGPRQG:DVKLQJWRQ Our family is very involved VRPHRQHZKRLVWKLQNLQJRI and supports our efforts in EX\LQJDIUDQFKLVH-HIIDQVZHUHG *RGGDUG6\VWHPV,QF*6, growing and maintaining ,I\RXDUHVHULRXVDERXWPDNLQJ KHDGTXDUWHUHGLQ.LQJRI3UXVVLD our two Schools. DGLIIHUHQFHWKURXJKDQLPSDFWIXO 3HQQV\OYDQLDIUDQFKLVHV7KH FRPPXQLW\EDVHGIDPLO\ - Jeff Barison *RGGDUG6FKRRO:LWK RULHQWHGEXVLQHVVWKHQ7KH 6FKRROVQDWLRQZLGH*6,LVWKH IDVWHVWJURZLQJSUHVFKRROIUDQFKLVHLQWKH8QLWHG6WDWHV *RGGDUG6FKRROVKRXOGEHSDUWRI\RXUGHFLVLRQ7DNH WKHWLPHWRUHDOO\WKLQNDERXW\RXUGHVLUHGOLIHVW\OHDQG DQGZDVUHFRJQL]HGDVWKH&KLOGFDUH)UDQFKLVHIRU KRZEHVWWRFUDIW\RXUOHJDF\ WKHWZHOIWKFRQVHFXWLYH\HDUE\EntrepreneurPDJD]LQH -DQXDU\ To learn more about franchising opportunities -HIIVD\V:HIHOWDSURYHQIUDQFKLVHZRXOGRIIHUWKH with The Goddard School, call 800-272-4901 or visit us online at GoddardSchoolFranchise.com. EHVWRIERWKZRUOGVZHFRXOGKDYHRXURZQEXVLQHVV
* Entrepreneur Magazine - January 2002 - 2013; The Goddard Schools are operated by independent franchisees under a license agreement with Goddard Systems, Inc. Programs and ages may vary. Substantiation available upon request. NY This advertisement is not an offering. An offering can only be made by a prospectus led rst with the Department of Law of the State of New York. Such ling does not constitute approval by the Department of Law. Goddard Systems, Inc., 1016 West Ninth Avenue, King of Prussia, PA 19406 Goddard Systems Inc. 2013
MN #F-4335
goods
Bright Fang
Vibrant snakeskin sandals give spring wardrobes a li le bite BY JACQUELINE DETWILER
2
WE CAN NEVER REMEMBER
exactly how that rhyme about snakes coloring goes, but we denitely dont recall anything about green bands next to stiletto heels. Regardless, these vivid sandalswhich slithered down spring runways in place of the staid white, tan or black python patterns of yesteryearappear to be dangerous only in that they might cause traffic accidents when you wear them out for cocktails. Brightly colored snakeskin instead of black? Youre all right, Jack.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN KLUTCH
1. High-heel cage sandals by Gucci, $1,350 / gucci.com 2. Cat sandals by Aperla, $1,310 / aperlaiparis.com 3 3. Indira Rue sandals by Clarks, $80 / clarksusa.com
45
1. Odyssey booties by Alejandro Ingelmo, $1,995 / alejandroingelmo.com
A Step in the White Direction

Chic ladies shoes come color-free this season
While legwear has acquired some astonishing hues in recent seasons, color seems to have drained out of the accompanying shoes. Among the most exciting styles weve seen, for instance, are strappy white heels featuring mesh panels, cut-out bits or sparkly holographic elements. On the spring runways, many of these were paired with raucous oral skirts or brocade pants. Oh, so thats what youre supposed to wear with those.
2. Reina wedges by Edmundo Castillo, $1,175 / saks havenue.com
3. Ankle-wrap sandals by Ren Caovilla, $530 / thecorner.com
GOODS || culture
1 1. Ellington suede wingtips by Johnston & Murphy, $135 / johnstonmurphy.com 2. Sully boat shoes by The Frye Company, $148 / thefryecompany.com 3. Trickers suede brogue sneakers by Junya Watanabe, $396 / mrporter.com
Never a Dull Moment

Mens shoes stroll into the limelight
Women have too many shoes is an understandable sentimentif and only if your own footwear options are limited to three or four standard styles in various shades of bland. This season, however, many mens designers have expanded their lines to include silhoue es such as wingtips, brogues and boat shoes in unconventional colors, nally making an expanded shoe collection a possibility for men who dont want to wear high-tops. Hey, guys, good luck ing all these options in your half of the closet.
47
AV I S B I ZC AT I O N S E R I E S
| CHAPTER 1
Beyond the bridge

Tack on an extra day, get behind the wheel and take an adventure outside San Francisco.
Its the same old story every time you travel for work but never actually see anything. So next time youre in town, make the most out of your journey with a Bizcation add a day or two to your business trip and see what the Bay Area really has to offer.
You could start by going north on Highway 101, which takes you over the Golden Gate Bridge. Its a treat of a drive if youve got a sunroof or a convertible, glance up at its mighty spars to fully appreciate what a feat of engineering the bridge is. Meanwhile, sailboats some 220 feet below you tack back and forth on winds fresh off the Pacic Ocean to the west. Then the road quickly takes you into the high, green country just above the bay. But theres no point in rushing, so pit-stop in San Franciscos own Riviera of Sausalito. Drive down past charming houses nestled on the hill, and at the waters edge youll nd colorful houseboats and the catch of the day in any of the restaurants. Back on the road, youre only about an hour from Napa Valley. The area is just 35 miles long, so you can reach everything from whichever of the 150 or so accommodations you choose. From Calistoga in the north to American Canyon in the south, there are eight distinctive communities offering you some of Californias best food, natural spas and, of course, wineries. Theres a strong culture of farm-to-table cuisine that has attracted top chefs like Cindy Pawlcyn, the genius behind local favorite Cindys Backstreet Kitchen in St. Helena. On the way back, shop for antiques or picnic on the grounds of a winery. If youre in an SUV, youll certainly enjoy the extra room after all the food not to mention the space to carry home a few souvenirs. To the east of San Francisco lie gems like Lake Tahoe and Yosemite National Park. Beautiful Carmel and the outstanding Monterey Bay Aquarium are south on world-famous Highway 1. But if you cant do it all this time, dont worry. Theres always another business trip crying out to become your next Bizcation.
SOME OF SAN FRANCISCOS MOST WORTHWHILE DESTINATIONS ARE JUST A FEW HOURS DRIVE OUTSIDE THE CITY.
Phils Fish Market & Eatery: At Moss Landing on Highway 1, pick up a bowl of fresh cioppino. Then on to Monterey and Carmel.
GPS: N3648.1913, W12147.2206
Lake Tahoe: Head east on I-80 to Sacramento, state capital and Old West charmer. Then hike in fresh alpine air around sparkling blue waters.
GPS: N3910.1502, W1208.5387
Carmel: Take Highway 1 south to this village by the sea. Fine art, good food and quaint cottages await.
GPS: N3633.2657, W12155.4654
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Terms and Conditions: Triple miles offer valid on a qualifying rental of one or more consecutive days at participating Avis airport locations in the U.S., Canada, Africa, Asia, Australia, the Caribbean, Europe, Latin America, Mexico, the Middle East and New Zealand. Bonus miles offer valid on all car groups. An advance reservation is required. Offer may not be used with any other coupon, promotion or offer except your Avis Worldwide Discount (AWD). The savings of up to 25% applies to the time and mileage charges only. Taxes, concession recovery fees, vehicle license recovery fee, customer facility charges ($10/contract in CA) and fuel charges are extra. Optional items such as LDW ($35.99/day or less) and other surcharges may apply and are extra. MileagePlus number must be mentioned at the time of reservation or at the rental counter to receive base and bonus miles. Offer is subject to vehicle availability at the time of rental and may not be available on some rates at some times, including some online rates at Avis.com. Car rental return restrictions may apply. Offer subject to change without notice. Holiday and other blackout periods may apply. Blackout dates: Australia: March 29 April 28, 2013, and June 21 July 21, 2013; Europe, Middle East and Africa: March 23 April 7, 2013, and July 1 August 31, 2013; Latin America, Mexico and the Caribbean: March 22 31, 2013, and July 1 August 31, 2013. Renter must meet Avis age, driver and credit requirements. Minimum rental age may vary by location. An additional daily surcharge may apply for renters younger than 25 years old. Frequent yer surcharge of up to $0.75 USD per day may apply. Rental must begin by August 31, 2013. Premier members earn an additional 50 bonus award miles per day. Miles accrued, awards, and benets issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program. Please allow 6-8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus miles to post to your account. United may change the MileagePlus program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus program at any time and without notice. Bonus award miles, award miles and any other miles earned through non-ight activity do not count or qualify for Premier status unless expressly stated otherwise. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the member. The accumulation of mileage or Premier or other status does not entitle members to any vested rights with respect to the program. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus program, go to www.united.com.
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the fan
WELL-PLAID, SIR Channeling a bit of Scotland at The Westin Kierland Resort
Great Scottsdale
Exploring the other side of a global golf mecca. While wearing a kilt. And riding a Segway.
BY JEFF WALLACH THE MERE FACT THAT Im wearing a kilt and white kneesocks isnt whats making todays round at The Westin Kierland Resort feel a bit unusual. Its that Im dressed in a kilt and Im about to ride out to my rst tee shot on a Segway like some kind of Sco ish charioteer. Having hit my opening drive, I mount the scooter and lean forward. The manicured grass beneath me ies past in a green blur as I teeter, trying to maintain both balance and dignity. Following a successful (if inelegant) dismount, I grab a 5-wood and hit just short of the rst pu ing surface into a sloping, tightly mown collection area. From here I get up and down, thanks to a beautiful rolling pitch shot. Id bow, but given my outt, it might be safer if I curtsied. Golfers whove been to Scotland more than once know that the most satisfying golf experiences are o en found away from the trophy courses. So it is here in Scottsdale, Ariz., wherebeyond bucket-list venues like Champions and Stadium at TPC, We-Ko-Pa and Grayhawkyoull discover a wealth of lesser-known spots oering unusual new programs, unexpected quality, smaller crowds and lower green fees. Kierlands Sco ish-themed package, for instance, includes a loan of formal Sco ish a ire and a bagpiper calling you in at the 18th green to sip Johnnie Walker at the Caledonianinuenced gastropub Bri lebush. Kierlands three nine-hole golf loops, designed by Sco Miller, feature golden desert grasses, elevation changes, dry washes and more than 300 bunkers of every shape and size lled with gleaming white sand. Ribbons of sandy waste areas and dun-colored dormant grasses frame many holes and accentuate the targets. Gently rolling mounds
51
culture || THE FAN

may reward slightly errant shots or create sidehill lies that will challenge your iron game. They will also challenge your Segway skills (though you can opt for a cart with an air-cooled mister, which comes in handy when the mercury soars into triple digits). While the name of ve-diamond resort The Phoenician suggests a leap back in history, the property is in fact a paean to modern luxury. One morning I roamed the cactus garden across from the lobby, admiring barrel cacti, smooth-barked palo verde trees and other local ora while sipping my coee. In the evening, we sat by a re pit and watched the sky turn purple and the stars pop out above Camelback Mountain, just behind the sprawling wings of the hotel. The Phoenician proves that a course doesnt have to be long and dicult to be, well, dicult. These 27 holes are all about subtletyand theyre also about Camelback Mountain, which the golf course meanders around and sometimes nearly over and back down. Camelback quietly influences not just putts, but also club selection, stance and maybe even your mood. At times during my round, I lost track of the mountain, focusing instead on the task at hand (i.e., ge ing the golf ball to land somewhere near the pin). But then Id leave a 3-foot pu a foot short on a seemingly at green, look up to see the mountain lurking and realize that the green was practically straight uphill. The Desert/Canyon routing commences amid a tranquil setting of flower beds, palms and mesquite, winds past resort facilities and stately Spanish-style houses, then transitions into a wilder terrain of rock and brush. As we were deciding what club to hit for our tee shots on the Deserts par-3 sixth, which drops 100 feet to a glimmering island of green, some hikers stopped to watchand we suddenly realized that laughter, particularly the derisive kind, echoes here (in other words: choose carefully). The Canyon has even more elevation changes and, at the seventh and eighth holes, back-to-back par-3s decorated with streams, gardens and waterfalls. Fountain Hills SunRidge Canyon Golf Club is home to the Jim McLean Golf School, which is convenient, as youll need an improved short game to master 18 holes that blend into the land as if they were carved by the movement of water and wind over millennia. Architect Keith Foster sited the holes in red rock canyons and atop boulder-strewn ridgescreating distinctly dierent canvases of gorgeously rendered golf features. The opening salvo descends gradually before doubling back to climb on the way in. Dont forget this, as youll want to make your pars and birdies early. Ravine crossings are o en required, but always present themselves clearly (so youll have only yourself to blame if you du it, as when I landed in a dry arroyo a er stubbing a 3-wood on the 12th). No. 13 kicks off the so-called Wicked Six, which plays mostly uphill into the wind, and encompasses
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52
DECEMBER 2012 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
THE FAN || culture

JUST DESERTS Right, The Phoenician, with Camelback Mountain behind it; below left, the Native Americanowned Talking Stick Resort
water, steep drops around elevated greens, and other features that are maddening and entertaining by turns. The Native Americanowned Talking Stick Resort boasts two golf layouts designed by Coore & Crenshaw. I ventured out on the North Course, which opens with a couple of wide, welcoming fairways that seem impossible to miss o the tee (note: seem) before narrowing toward the rst few greens. The la er reside awfully close to rough desert scrub, where we actually saw a herd of wild horses grazing. By the third hole, bunker pods and waste areas grow increasingly prevalent and closer to the elds of play. No. 12 proved to be one of my favorites: a 392-yard dogleg called Red Mountain Gambler. Golfers choosing to take a chance must carry 204 yards of sandy waste area with their drives. Less adventuresome players can bail out to the rightor, like me, opt to carry the sand but hit it to the right anyway, by accident, leaving a long approach that must carry an arroyo in front of the green. And the greens themselves (newly rebuilt, lovely to look
at, completely unforgiving) have a way of trampolining good shots to the back of, or clean over, the pu ing surfaces. Six thousand Georgia pines distinguish Raven Golf Clubformerly known as The Raven at South Mountainfrom the area golf courses that accentuate their Sonoran cred. In addition to the new name, the Phoenix facility spotlights a new trend in golf: a set of family tees shrunk down to 4,100 yards. Gary Panks and David Graham, designers known for their desert golf architecture, let the cacti and ra lesnakes remain in the background on a lush, expansive layout. Subtleties abound, such
as the sloped embankments lining the rst hole that work to guide slightly mis-hit shots back to the fairway. Also at work is a design that requires strategy to ensure the best leaves, as in billiards. Angles of a ack ma er here, so procient players will want to think a shot or two ahead. No. 5 is the signature holea super-short par-4 where wise golfers will hit an iron to the le o the tee and then avoid both the false front before the green and the deep retention area behind it (wiser golfers than I, who experienced both). The back nine plays a few shots easier than the front. Stadium-size pu ing surfaces may aect the yardages on many holes, so check pin positions before ring. When youve nished with golf, refuel at any number of great clubhouse and resort restaurants close by the courses, such as Relish Burger Bistro at The Phoenician (I recommend the Kobe beef burger in particular) and Deseo at The Westin Kierland, whose spicy Nuevo Latino cuisine is the perfect counterpoint to a breeze blowing up your kilt.
JEFF WALLACH is executive editor of the web-
sites The A Position and Golf Road Warriors.
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Up Close and
PER SONA L
TIPS FROM IJL DATING EXPERT
elieve it or not, your computer screen may be getting in the way of your dating life. While we may use technology to stay connected to friends and family, when it comes to meeting potential partners, the digital world obscures the thing that matters most: chemistry.
To get a pulse on todays dating scene, we talked to Cindy Herington, one of the many dating experts at Its Just Lunch, the worlds largest personalized matchmaking service. Here she explains why you should ditch the laptop for the tabletop.
Ditch the Laptop
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The online buzz about Its Just Lunch:
Favorite part of air travel is reading the ad for @Its_Just_Lunch, @ponybear, via Twitter
I joined because I just didnt have enough time to go out and meet people and I wanted a fun way to meet like minded professionals in a relaxed setting on my time frame. Im hundred percent satised so far... Justin, on consumeraffairs.com
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5 TIPS FOR MODERN DATING
MIXING BUSINESS AND DATING?

Does the time that a potential partner travels for business aect your willingness to pursue a relationship?
16% to be more accessible.
Yes, I prefer potential partners No, a partner on frequent business
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Get a Wingman (or Wingwoman)
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:LWK,-/VSHUVRQDOL]HGPDWFKVHOHFWLRQ DQGGDWHFRRUGLQDWLRQFOLHQWVDUHDEOH WRVDYHYDOXDEOHWLPHDQGHQHUJ\$IWHU ZHVHOHFW\RXUPDWFKZHOOGHVFULEHWKH SHUVRQWR\RXDQGFRQILUPDFRQYHQLHQW WLPHDQGSODFHIRU\RXWRPHHW$OO\RX KDYHWRGRLVVKRZXSDQGKDYHIXQPHHW LQJVRPHRQHQHZ+HULQJWRQVD\V/HVV WLPHVHDUFKLQJHTXDOVPRUHWLPHGDWLQJ 7KDWVUHDOL]HG52,
27% related trips does not bother me.
am busy myself, so if a partner is gone 32% I for a week at a time, I am okay with that! am busy, but expect a potential partner 25% I to be local more often than traveling.
Date Smarter
ITS JUST LUNCH HELPS YOU MAKE TIME FOR THE THINGS THAT MATTER...
Boost Your Dating ROI
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Do you prefer to date someone in the same industry as you or in a dierent profession altogether?
Different industry Similar line of work and position Same industry 10%
10% 70% 10%

Similar line of work but different position
Would you date one of your companys clients or potential clients?

No. Its unprofessional. Yes. But I would keep work and play separate. 30.9% 38.9% 26.1% 18.5% Men Wom 41.4% 42.3%
Connect
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+HULQJWRQVD\VWKDWKHUFOLHQWV RIWHQZLVKHGWKH\KDGFRQWDFWHGKHU VRRQHU0RVWRIWKHPGLGQWUHDOL]HKRZ HDV\DQGHQMR\DEOH,WV-XVW/XQFKGDWLQJ FDQEHVKHVD\V$OOLWWDNHVLVDVLPSOH SKRQHFDOODQGDFRQYHUVDWLRQZLWKDQ ,-/'DWLQJ6SHFLDOLVWWRMXPSVWDUW\RXU GDWLQJOLIH2YHUWKHSDVW\HDUV,WV -XVW/XQFKKDVEHHQFUHDWLQJH[FLWLQJ FRQQHFWLRQVDUUDQJLQJPRUHWKDQWZR PLOOLRQILUVWGDWHVLQRYHUFLWLHV DURXQGWKHZRUOG:KDWDUH\RXZDLWLQJ IRU"*HWLQWRXFKZLWK,WV-XVW/XQFKDW 1-800-858-6526 RUYLVLW www. ItsJustLunch.com
Yes. And I would 1.6% give them addl business if helped seal the deal. 0.3% Yes. I would consider if the situation felt appropriate, but not exchange for any business favors.
Its Just Lunch Dating Specialists:
Amy Brinkman
Betty Sinclair
Sara Darling
Source: IJL Survey of 4400 singles
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INNOVATION BUSINESS GADGETRY
1 2
HOW ITS DONE
REBUILDING ROME IN TWO AND A HALF YEARS

There are few reminders of the Roman Empires grandeur more arresting than the Colosseum, still standing a er nearly 2,000 years. In order to remain standing for the next 2,000, however, the building needs some help. Researchers from Sapienza University of Rome have conrmed that the south side of the foundationwhich rests on the so er ground that was once beneath an articial lake created for the emperor Nerois sagging. To even out the foundation, check for cracks, clean the stonework and make repairs, all while keeping the building open to tourists, Italys Ministry of Cultural Heritage and Activities is undertaking the rst-ever Colosseum restoration project. Scheduled to wrap in 2015, its priced at roughly $33 million and is largely nanced by Italian shoemaker Tods. Heres how theyll do it. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER
1 Scaffolds positioned in front of the rst four arcades will allow workers to clean and repair the buildings exterior while maintaining areas for tourists. The temporary metal stays used to protect the Colosseums arches will be removed, and the arches will be shored up more permanently.
2 A major aim is to increase the public space by 25 percent. Workers will accomplish this in part by building a visitors center with a caf, a bookshop and a display of artifacts discovered during the renovation (including an 18th-century model of the Colosseum complete with secret passageways).
3 Throughout the project, scientists from Sapienza University will monitor the building using high-sensitivity accelerometers that can record accelerations as small as 1/10,000th the force of gravity. This will help officials prevent further damage to the masonry from traffic, subways, tourists, wind and earthquakes.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES PROVOST
57
INDUSTRY
INTEL, YOU CAN DRIVE MY CAR

FULLY AUTOMATED VEHICLES PROMISE TO REDUCE ACCIDENTS AND SAVE DRIVERS TIME AND MONEY, BUT THEIR LONG-AWAITED ARRIVAL MAY NOT BE GOOD NEWS FOR ALL
BY BOYD FARROW
Three decades ago, driverless cars were everywhere. Among the most popular novels (and films) of 1983 was Stephen Kings Christine, about a malevolent Plymouth on a hit-and-run spree. One of the best-loved TV shows was Knight Rider, in which a bighaired David Hasselho teamed up with an opinionated Trans Am to ght crime. Then, poof: Self-driven cars went the way of the jet pack and the robot maidan absorbing ction, but li le more.
Now, however, the fantasy seems about to be realized. Its really happening. All car companies are investing lots of money in this, says John Leech, U.K. head of automotive for accounting giant KPMG. The technology is here nowautomatic braking, cruise control and lane centering are available. The next stage is getting total mobile Internet connectivity to join up all the sensors. We are on a gradual journey to fully automatic driving.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTOPHER NIELSEN
59
BRIGHT IDEAS || INDUSTRY

Several tests have already been conducted on public roads with cars whose manual brakes and steering wheels were replaced with sensors and so ware enabling vehicle-to-vehicle communication. Volvo recently had four self-driving cars platooning at 53 mph along a 124-mile route near Barcelona. Engineers from German automotive supplier Continental have racked up 10,000-plus miles testdriving automated Volkswagen Passats in the U.S. and Germany. Last fall the state of California enacted legislation that paves the way for test-drives in trac by Googles computerized Toyota Priuses, which have been in trials in Nevada for almost a year. A recent study by KPMG, in collaboration with the nonprofit Center for Automotive Research, suggests that the first cars capable of communicating with trac infrastructure and with each other could come onto the market within ve to 10 years. Indeed, the studys authors speculated that there will be so many autonomous vehicles on the road by 2025, people stopped at trac lights wont do a double-take if a car pulls up and its driver is shaving. Like many watershed technological developments, this one is arriving in increments. For years, automakers have been engaged in a erce competition to oer increasingly sophisticated driver-assist features. The 2014 Mercedes S-Class, due to launch this year, boasts 26 separate sensors that can monitor trac up to 656 feet ahead, recognize lane markings and use the vehicle in front as a positioning beacon when no lane markings are visible. Its not only the car companies that have a stake in this technology. The motor club federation AAA has estimated the annual cost of U.S. road accidents at about $300 billion. Traffic congestion, meanwhile, robs Americans of nearly 5 billion hours a year and costs about $100 billion in lost productivity and fuel expenses. Self-driving cars could put a significant dent in these figures, with the added benefit of increased fuel eciency. It is the nature of revolutions, though, for fortunes to be raised and lowered in equal number. Certainly, when this technology takes onobody is saying if anymorethe automotive industry will enter a period of transformation. Tech rms appear set to emerge as the big winners, as their input will no longer be conned to providing extras; rather, theyll be shaping the fundamentals of the driving experience. Intel, Google and others are already sinking billions into research and development, threatening to diminish the role that traditional carmakers play in devising the vehicles of tomorrow. Indeed, in one scenario envisioned by KPMG, major players in the data market could design a vehicle operating system
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Look Whos Talking

f youre looking for a detailed rundown on that meeting you missed, youd probably do best to ask the quiet girl who sits in the corner. According to a study by Dutch s h ont scientist Camiel Beukeboom published in The Journal of this m ING Z Language and Social Psychology, an introvert is far more A M A likely than an extrovert to use specic descriptive language. FACT In the experiment, subjects described a set of photos, then returned days later to take a personality test. It turned out that among extroverts, abstract speech patterns (The boss was being mean) were far more common than concrete ones (The boss argued with the sales team). The reverse was true for introverts, who also used more numbers, articles (such as the) and references to specic people. Thats not to say the news is all bad for boisterous types: Researchers believe extroverts may be better at interpreting actions to draw inferences about people and situations. Anyway, happy hour is, uh, down the street. Hope you can make it. JACQUELINE DETWILER
INTROVERTS TELL IT LIKE IT IS; EXTROVERTS TELL IT LIKE IT MIGHT BE
cakestyle.com 60
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and simply outsource the production of the actual vehicle to an external partner possibly someone other than a traditional automotive manufacturer. As Larry Burns, co-author of Reinventing the Automobile, said in a presentation to the National Automobile Dealers Association in New York last year, Incumbent players rarely do well when industries disrupt. There will be a knock-on effect for other players, too. Steelmakers, faced with the prospect of safer and therefore less fortied vehicles, are likely viewing developments with concern. And nobody has yet been able to fathom what all this will mean for insurance companies. Whos at fault when two fully automated cars collide? For the likes of you and me, automated vehicles promise to save time and money and to improve our personal safety. Moreover, who wouldnt relish the opportunity for a nice snooze during those interminable trips to the in-laws place at Thanksgiving? But Leech, for all his conviction, doesnt foresee the demise of the steering wheel and brake pedal just yet. For some, the whole point of driving is the actual driving, he says. People will carry on buying Ferraris.
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A NEW GENERATION OF CITIZEN SCIENTISTS IS TAKING DISCOVERY OUT OF THE IVORY TOWER AND ONTO THE STREET BY HILLARY ROSNER
On a summer night in 2007, in the southeast corner of the Netherlands, Hanny van Arkel discovered a never-before-seen space object: a gas cloud wrapped around a former galaxy 730 million light-years from Earth. Van Arkel spo ed the glowing green blob now known as Hannys Voorwerp (Dutch for object) while classifying galaxies in one of millions of photos taken during an exhaustive space-mapping eort called the Sloan Digital Sky Survey. Van Arkel, it turns out, is not a professional astronomer but a 29-year-old schoolteacher and amateur musician. She started scanning the skies as a hobby a er seeing some cool space photos on the
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 ILLUSTRATION BY LINCOLN AGNEW
63
BRIGHT IDEAS || TECH
website of her musical idol, Brian May, guitarist in the rock band Queen. Intrigued, she sought out the photos source, a site called Galaxy Zoo. Soon a erward, having sat through a quick tutorial, she set to work. Unable to process the volume of images theyd amassed, Galaxy Zoos astronomers had decided to recruit members of the public to help out. Van Arkel was just one of 150,000 people who contributed to the project in its rst year, generating more than 50 million classications. The project has since received countless millions more, allowing scientists to be er explore such topics as bars and bulges in disc galaxies and the sudden deaths of quasars. Astronomers are not the only experts willing to let amateurs get involved in their work. So-called citizen scientists are now being recruited to assist with everything from archaeology to cancer research. Anyone can participate in these projects: Joining generally requires only an Internet connection, a decent attention span and a lot of spare time. True, the trend may threaten to knock scientists out of their ivory towersbut few are inclined to complain about having access to what is, in eect, a million unpaid research assistants. There have, in fact, been previous large-scale eorts to apply the resources of ordinary people to scientic research. Back in 1999, SETI@home sought to further the search for extraterrestrial life by harnessing unused processing power from thousands of individuals PCs to create a virtual supercomputer. The
MARCH CROSSWORD ANSWERS
project ultimately failed to turn up any aliens, but it was nonetheless hailed as a mighty success. The citizen science model takes inspiration from the SETI@home project, only in this instance the excess processing power comes from a far more sophisticated machine: the human brain. And while the idea itself is nothing newelds like public health and conservation have been soliciting input from laypersons for decades citizen science builds on the very contemporary phenomenon of crowdsourcing, which has systematically decentralized research and development in ways that would have been unimaginable a few years ago. So it is, across the world, that we have a orneys mapping bird migration, bus drivers decoding whale songs and schoolteachers discovering far-o gas clouds. Some projects even require participants to go out into the eld. Earthwatch Institute, one of the earliest proponents of citizen science, invites amateur researchers to get their boots muddy in far-ung places like Malawi and Ecuador, for instance. Meanwhile, an offshoot dubbed extreme citizen science aims to help disenfranchised communities create their own projects, and in doing so explore topics that are near and dear to them. In one recent example, an anthropologist at University College London helped (by way of GPS and other modern doodads) a Pygmy community in Congo identify and protect its most valued trees, which were being threatened by the chain saws of a logging conglomerate. While the benets to researchers are obvious, many believe that the rise of citizen science will have profound eects on not only the eld of scientic discovery, but also the culture at large. If nothing else, the shroud of mystery that has always obscured scholarly expertise is being stripped away, replaced by something more collaborative, more accessible, even more fun. Jennifer Shirk, a Ph.D. candidate at Cornell University who studies citizen science, is fascinated by the potential. What might we be able to accomplish, she says, if we start thinking about science in those terms? Hanny van Arkel now has her own website, on which she shares her musings on a wide range of topics, including what she calls my object in the sky. Shes available to do lectures for experts or novices, she explains, and she also has quite a lot to say on the subject of Brian May. Her voorwerp, meanwhile, is being scrutinized by scientists, who would love to nd other objects like itand who would welcome any help they can get.
All across the world, there are a orneys mapping bird migration, bus drivers decoding whale songs and schoolteachers discovering far-o gas clouds.
HILLARY ROSNER, a Colorado-based writer, doesnt have the patience to discover a heavenly body thats much harder to spot than the moon.
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THE HEMI Q&A: MATT DAMON
72
THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT
76
ALL THAT GLITTERS
86
As co-founder of Water.org, the high-wattage movie star sheds light on a global health crisisand a surprisingly innovative solution
After decades of conict, an unlikely alliance takes shape between locals and some majestic insects in Mexicos Sierra Madre mountains
Set against the bustle and excitement of Las Vegas, our fashion extravaganza showcases winning looks for the new season
This charming lake town in Canadas Okanagan Valley is that rare outdoor-sports haven that doesnt skimp on more sedentary pleasures
ONCE ROPED IN, THE EAGER SLED DOGS PULL YOU ON A ZIPPY LOOP THROUGH THE WOODSAND EVEN POSE FOR PHOTOS BEFORE YOU GRUDGINGLY TAKE YOUR LEAVE OF THEM.
ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTINE BERRIE MARCH 2013 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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MARCH 2013
THE HEMI Q&A
Ma Damon
One of Hollywoods biggest earners has become one of the worlds leading advocates for clean water. We sit down with him to discuss his eorts with Water.orgplus, what its like to be yelled at by an irate John Krasinski and smacked repeatedly on the head by a 2-year-old.
BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY JOE MORSE
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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM JUNE 2012
69
LIKE A LOT OF CELEBRITIES, Matt Damon has GOODWILL his pet causes. In contrast to many of his peers, HUNTING Damon and Water.orgs though, he actually digs in and does the work. Gary White with And in Damons world, there is nothing more youngsters in Haiti; important than clean water. As co-founder of onstage at the Gotham Awards; Water.org, which helps poor communities build with Promised Land their own water supply systems, hes determined collaborators to see that fresh water is available to the milJohn Krasinski and Gus Van Sant lions who dont have it. That sounds far-fetched in a Hollywood-movie sort of way, but Water.org is intent on harnessing market forces to make wholesale gains, rather than just drilling a few more wells. Of course, in his spare time Damon continues to tend to his career as one of Hollywoods most bankable stars. I met him at the Waldorf Astoria in Manha an late last year, when he was in town doing press for Promised Land, the Gus Van Sant indie he wrote with John Krasinski (The Oce) about one communitys struggles over le ing a big energy company set up a fracking operation. (Damons prowess as an author is proven; recall that his sole Oscar is for co-writing Good Will Hunting.) And he was fresh sh o receiving a career achievement award at the Gotham Independent ndent Film Awards in New York Citya notable accomplishment, given that hes only 42. With his hair cropped short for a role as a soldier in the futuristic uristic Elysium (due out in August), and wearing a pair of glasses s that could have been right o the drugstore rack, Damon looked like a mighty regular guy when we met. Over a couple of bo les of water, we talked about, well, water, then Promised Land, balancing career and family, and, nally, temporary baldness. Among folks who cover the famous, Damon is considered the gold standard: smart, funny, nice, always plays ball. This interview was no exception.
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I was in shapeI was doing Invictus, which was a rugby movieand it was hard. That kid weighed a third of what I weighed. It was amazing what she went through to get water. HEMISPHERES: But water has a bit of
WATER.ORG BY THE NUMBERS

Global population
a marketing problem. Because its so abundant here, people cant imagine how big a deal it is in sub-Saharan Africa. In terms of global issues, AIDS actually has more traction in the public consciousness.
DAMON: Yeah, because everybody knows, or has known, somebody with AIDS. My wifes father died of it. It touches people in a very personal way. The rst hurdle we have to clear is trying to explain to the public that there are 780million people who dont have access to clean and safe water, that every 21 seconds a kid under the age of 5 dies from a waterrelated disease. It just doesnt make sense to people. Theres clean water in this room; theres clean water all over the West. Weve known how to access clean water for a hundred years. Weve gured that out. Now its a ma er of making sure that it extends to everyone. HEMISPHERES: Its not like people arent
7 BILLION
Number of people without access to clean water
780 MILLION
Estimated number of hours they spend collecting water each day
200 MILLION
Number of people without adequate sanitation services
2.5 BILLION
Percentage of illnesses in developing nations related to unsafe drinking water and poor sanitation
WATER.ORG (HAIT (HAITI); THEO WARGO/GETTY (AWARDS); AMANDA EDWARDS/WIREIMAGE (PROMISED LAND)
HEMISPHERES: For a big name such as
yourself, there are plenty of good causes on which to expend celebrity capital. What made you think you could put a dent in the worlds water problems?
DAMON: The enormity of it. Water underpins everything. My personal connection started when I went on a water collection with a 14-year-old girl in Zambia, and she grabbed her jerrican and we walked a mile to the well. It was a long walk, and we talked about all the things she could be doing if she didnt have to walk so far to get water. HEMISPHERES: Which one of you carried
80
Average amount of water, in gallons, used daily by a person in a developing nation
2.6
Average amount of water, in gallons, used daily by a person in the U.S.
trying to get it done.

DAMON: Sure, but half of all water projects fail. There are massive ineciencies in the space. Thats one of the things I love about Gary White, who runs Water.org. Digging wells wont solve the problem. Well never be able to dig enough wells. So Gary invented this idea of water credit, which is really brilliant. It helps turn people into customers, and uses the power of the market to access existing resources. CONTINUED ON PAGE 134
100
Amount of loans made through Water.orgs micronance program, WaterCredit
the can back?

DAMON: She did, like it was nothing. I was in Ethiopia a couple of years ago, and there was an 8-year-old girl who li ed one of these cans and started wa walking up a hill. I said, Give me that thi thing, took it and tried to walk up.
$9.2 MILLION
Number of people served by WaterCredit projects worldwide
500,000+
Number of people that WaterCredit aims to benet by 2020
D During a mile-long hike to a well with a Zambian girl, we talked about all the things she could be doing if she didnt th have to walk so far to get water. h
100 MILLION
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 HEM
71
For generations, the residents of a small, rural slice of Mexicos Sierra Madre mountains have pursued their livelihoods at the expense of the monarch buttery. Now, locals and the migrating insects have forged an unlikely alliance. PHIL PRIMACK travels to Michoacn to investigate.
S THE PEOPLE
around him hu and pu their way along a rocky trail 10,000 feet up in Mexicos Sierra Madre mountains, Javier Martnez Coln walks with the easy gait of a man in familiar territory. The 56-year-old chairman of his local ejido, or agricultural collective, says li le as the path narrows and the forest grows denser. The group is entering the Sierra Chincua sanctuary, and Martnez knows whats coming next. A solitary bu ery i ers over the path. Then ve, then a dozen. Before long, the air is thick with them. Weighing just half a gram each, the insects cling to the trees in such numbers that the branches bend under their weight. Finally, the trees dont look like trees at all, but tree-shaped clumps of wings. Beneath his white straw cowboy hat, Martnez looks on coolly as his charges fumble for their cameras. All his life he has watched las monarcas return to their winter retreats in the states of Michoacn and Mexico, turning the forest into a vivid swirl of orange and black. He played with them as a kid. Monarch migration to this beautiful but poor slice of Mexico is now recognized as a wonder of the natural world. UNESCO granted the protected sanctuaries World Heritage Site status in 2008. However, the bu eries were not always warmly embraced here. People used to think the monarchs were the souls of the departed, Martnez says, explaining that the bu eries ve-month stay usually begins around Nov. 1, Mexicos Day of the Dead. Later, as their numbers declined and conservation eorts were taken up, the monarchs came to be viewed as actual impediments to human survival, sparking illegal logging rackets and, in places, civil unrest. Its been a long, dicult struggle, but it has nally ended. In Sierra Chincua, Martnez leans back against an oyamel r, the hum of countless bu ery wings overhead. Having grown up helping his father log these forests, he knows his livelihood now relies on something that until recently seemed inconceivable: keeping them intact.
73
TS AN AGE-OLD conservationist
conundrum, one that is played out in various forms across the world: the conicting environmental needs of humans and wildlife. Historically, of course, humans have generally prevailedsometimes to the extent that a rival species is displaced altogether. By the mid-1980s, there was a real concern that this would be the fate of Mexicos monarchs, whose habitat was being destroyed at an alarming rate. But when the government moved to formally restrict logging in these areas, it provoked an angry response. At first, t, people resented what the government nt did, says Ana Maria Muiz Salcedo, co-founder er of Alternare, a Michoacn-based nonpro -based non nprot that promotes sustainable e living. People P People depended on
the trees for income and to cook and to heat their houses. This was a major switch in their way of life, but nobody came to ask themeven though they were the owners of the forests. Things intensified in 2000 with the establishment of the Monarch Bu ery Biosphere Reserve, a protection zone that encompasses about 217 square miles (an area roughly the size of Chicago). The reserve was good news for las monarcas, but not for those residents whose
BOARDING PASS
livelihoods were eectively cut o. We did not have a good rst impression about the governments plans, recalls Martnez, as a monarch lands on his shoulder. People were worried. Many simply ignored the restrictions, while others organized illegal logging gangsor mafias, as the locals called themthat developed a fearsome reputation. Even after the forests came under federal protection, more than 1,000 acres a year were still being cleared. The
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74
police made arrests. Some locals dug ditches and set fires to deter the chain sawtoting thugs in their communities. There were even calls for a permanent military presence in the area. But the eorts were neither consistent nor coordinated, and the monarchs habitat continued to dwindle. Then, in 2004, the World Wildlife Fund, which had been struggling to protect the monarchs for more than two decades, proposed a radical solution. Rather than trying to compel people to stop destroying the forests, it said, why not create an environment in which they would want to stop? We help people understand that, if managed ed well, these forests could generate a lot of money for all
York. The idea is that Miguel and Salvador will grow trees to replenish the forests that were culled by loggers, while proceeds from the sale of the trees will help protect these same forests in the future. The project is part of an agreement we made not to cut trees, in exchange for support for the vivero, says Miguel. Even though the monarch does not fly here, we benet from it. Modesta Flores Snchez is part of a similar program. Behind a simple cinder-block house lined with owers, she keeps a small greenhouse full of the mushrooms that she and other members of her ejido have been trained to grow and sell. This has made things be er for us, us us, she says, gesturing at the modest crop
A BUTTERFLY TERFLY RS OVER THE T FLITTERS , THEN A PATH. THEN FIVE, N. SOON TH HE AIR IS DOZEN. THE M, A VIVID THICK WITH THEM THEM, GE AND BLACK. SWIRL OF ORANG ORANGE
of them, explains Eduardo Rendn Salinas, who directs the WWFs monarch program in Mexico. People have become conscious of the benets of the forest not only to the monarchs, but also to their own lives. as two of her grandchildren look on. Using public and private donations, the WWF covered the $5,000 startup cost for the mushroom enterprise, and has supported others like it across the reserve areaagain, with the aim of drawing people out of the forests and into the fields. Or sometimes the gi shops. A great many of the work-creation schemes here have focused on the ecotourism market. The four bu erfly sanctuaries open to the public a ract as many as 150,000 visitors a year, sparking a need for everything from tour guides to food vendors to vigilancia comunitaria, or community surveillance teams, which patrol the reserves and report illegal logging. Still, it was a tough sell. When the reserve was created, I had to convince CONTINUED ON PAGE 136
JOEL SARTORE/GETTY IMAGES (BUTTERFLIES); PHIL PRIMACK (PORTRAITS)
GOOD EXAMPLE OF
the change taking hold can be found in the story of two brothers, Miguel and Salvador Cayetano Contreras. In the indigenous community of Crescencio Morales, located in a valley below the monarchs mountain reserves, the brothers tend to thousands of firs and other pine trees. The saplings grow in long, orderly rows in the small field that is home to the subsidized vivero, or nursery, that they set up after returning from a decade working construction in New
ATTRACTIVE PROSPECTS Opposite, monarchs sheathe a tree in the Sierra Chincua reserve; this page, from top, Javier Martnez Coln, Modesta Flores Snchez and Marciano Solis Sacarias have all beneted from buttery-related work-creation efforts
75
HEADING TO LAS VEGAS IN SEARCH OF THIS SEASONS MOST WINNING LOOKS

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOMO BREJC FASHION DIRECTION BY NINO BAUTI
76
SKIN CITY
Viktor & Rolf draped bodysuit; Manolo Blahnik stilettos; Pebble London mirrored bangle; Anticoa earrings
PUTTING ON THE GLITZ

ABOVE LEFT, ON HER: Missoni shirt; Marni embroidered wool shorts; Chanel bag; Manolo Blahnik stilettos; Cutler and Gross sunglasses; Pebble London resin bangle and African-style necklace ON HIM: G-Star Raw shirt; Tommy Hilger jeans; Boot Barn hat and boots; Michael Kors sunglasses; Louis Vuitton luggage ABOVE RIGHT: Just Cavalli sequin dress and snake cuff watch; Anticoa earrings OPPOSITE: Just Cavalli dress and watch; Manolo Blahnik stilettos; Pebble London earrings, ring and bangle; Nina Ricci necklace; Roberto Cavalli bracelet; Alexandra DeClaris clutch
(Backdrop for all photos on this spread: Three-Bedroom Duplex at Encore Las Vegas)
78
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Roberto Cavalli embroidered cotton shirt and embroidered silk pants; Casadei shoes; Pebble London bangles; Rolex gold, diamond and opal wristwatch; Anticoa earrings (Three-Bedroom Duplex at Encore Las Vegas) OPPOSITE: Stella McCartney jacquard jacket and pants, available at Matches; Viktor & Rolf embroidered shirt; Zagliani clutch; Cartier diamond ring; Christopher Kane for Swarovski necklace, available at go-british.co.uk; Roberto Cavalli sunglasses
80
81
LEGGING IT OUT
Moschino broderie anglais jumpsuit; Marni jewelry and shoes (Three-Bedroom Duplex at Encore Las Vegas) OPPOSITE, ON HER: Peter Pilotto silk tunic, available at Selfridges; Roberto Cavalli pants; Manolo Blahnik sandals; Marni earrings and clutch; Cartier diamond watch, bracelets and ring ON HIM: G-Star Raw shirt; Banana Republic tee; Levis jeans; Boot Barn hat; Paul Smith boots; Michael Kors sunglasses; Rolex steel wristwatch (Mizumi at Wynn Las Vegas)
83
BOARDING PASS
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TEAM CREDITS: Fashion assistants Samia Giobellina and Skye-Maree Dixon; photo assistant Jeremy Rigby; hair and makeup artist Tyler Colton/Celestine Agency (using Josie Maran products, available at Sephora); models Evgenia Sizanyuk/Elite New York City and Derek Jaeschke/Ford Models Los Angeles; photo retoucher Rob@happynish.com SPECIAL THANKS: Wynn Las Vegas & Encore Resort, The Little White Wedding Chapel and Boot Barn, Las Vegas
84
THE LOOK OF LOVE

ON HER: Chanel embellished jacket; American Apparel metallic leggings; Manolo Blahnik shoes; Cartier diamond ring; Anticoa earrings ON HIM: Paul Smith jeans; Boot Barn shirt, boots, hat and bolo tie; Dita sunglasses OPPOSITE, TOP: Antonio Berardi embroidered jacket; Cartier diamond ring; Mawi earrings OPPOSITE, BELOW, ON HER: Diane von Furstenberg silk dress; Stephen Jones fascinator, available at go-british.co.uk; Cartier diamond ring; Anticoa earrings; Pebble London bangle ON HIM: United Colors of Benetton shirt; Paul Smith jeans; Boot Barn hat and bolo tie; Dita sunglasses, Rolex steel watch
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM SEPTEMBER 2012
85
THREE PERFECT DAYS
KELOWNA
This postcard-perfect lake town is nestled in Canadas Okanagan Valley, home to more wineries than Walla Walla and be er snow than Whistler. And you found it rst.
BY JACQUELINE DETWILER PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL HANSON
89
DAY ONE
93
DAY TWO
96
DAY THREE
Skiing with snow ghosts, sampling Indian-Canadian fusion cuisine and enjoying a very, very hot coee
Cavorting with enthusiastic sled dogs, climbing a 60-foot tower of ice and indulging in midday smores
Tasting the fruits of the winemakers labor and digging into a superlative local cheeseburger
86
CREATURE FEATURE Stuart Parks grizzly sculpture evokes Kelownas namesake (kelowna means grizzly in the language of the Okanagan Indians); left, skiing through snow ghosts at Big White
THREE PERFECT DAYS || KELOWNA
WHEN FACED WITH

the prospect of describing Kelowna, a winemaking and ski resort town surrounded by three mountain ranges and a lake in Canadas Okanagan Valley, one is tempted to rely on juxtaposition: Napa meets Tahoe, Sideways meets Dirty Dancing, Ski Party meets Meatballs. Otherwise, conveying the scope of the place can be dicult. In valleys abu ing a 68-mile-long lake fed by crystalline mountain streams sit nearly 30 wineries, 20 golf courses, countless running and biking trails, and a ski resort with some of the most pillowy powder in the world. What the comparisons fail to capture, however, is that unlike Napa or Tahoe, Kelowna is a 1,120-square-mile playground that remains largely untouched by the other kids. You can taste wines poured by the vintners themselves, swoop down black diamond runs all by yourself and procure a lakeside table without making reservations a week in advance. As one local ski instructor puts it, I think I waited in a li line for ve minutes ... once? Napa meets Tahoe meets Narnia. There. That should do it.
WHOA THERE A Candle Creek Kennels pup; right, African beef salad rolls at Carvers
88
KELOWNA || THREE PERFECT DAYS
KELOWNA BY THE NUMBERS
POPULATION
179,839
ANNUAL SNOWFALL, IN FEET, AT BIG WHITE SKI RESORT
24
LONGEST SKI RUN, IN MILES, AT BIG WHITE
4
(AROUND THE WORLD ROUTE)
YEAR THAT KELOWNAS FIRST VINEYARD WAS PLANTED
1859
NUMBER OF WINE TRAILS
5
NUMBER OF NHL PLAYERS WHO HAVE VACATION HOMES IN KELOWNA
75
AGE RANGE OF PLAYERS ON THE ROCKETS (KELOWNAS WHL TEAM)
1520
AMOUNT OF DRY FOOD, IN TONS, CONSUMED BY SLED DOGS AT CANDLE CREEK KENNELS ANNUALLY
3
(PLUS 3 TONS OF CHICKEN)
the mountain, the trees gain another layer of snow, until they DAY ONE | Its a powder day when you wake up in your luxury Stonebridge Lodge apartment at Big White Ski Resort, so you could be mistaken for contorted yeti reaching up for your feet. dont bother turning on the replace or the hot tub while you These are the fabled snow ghosts of Big White, Fi says, and the toss back a cup of coee. Youve stored your skis and boots in li youre riding is named in their honor. You soon nd out why. Tree skiing is Big Whites the lockers downstairs, and in less than 15 minutes WANT MORE? showpiecethe u between the trunks is thick youre out the door and hoong it to Beanos Coffee Download and airy, staying so for weeks. You have so much Parlor in Big White Village. On the way to breakfast, our iPad app. fun slashing through the snow ghosts that your you accidentally take a step o the path and sink quads dont call for a break until well a er noon. into a snowdri up to your hip. Its gonna be a good morning. When they do, you stow your skis and wander over to the west With a fortifying ham-egg-and-veggie bagel in hand, you secure side of the village, where the aprs parties are already beginning the services of a spunky British ski instructor named Fi, and the at the ice bar behind Carvers. Inside, you order a hearty plate of two of you head for the slopes via the Snow Ghost Express. As you peer out at a panorama of droopy, haphazardly snow-dusted vindaloo poutine, an Indian twist on a French-Canadian classic Dr. Seuss trees, the powder comes down so so ly it gli ers in the that combines sweet potato fries, braised lamb and cheese curds. Its so delicious you wonder why there isnt an Indian restaurant air like a holiday store display. With each hundred-foot rise up
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LOCAL FLAVOR Two kinds of lamb with potato doughnuts at Waterfront; opposite, clockwise from top left, putting on a show at the Gunbarrel Grill; dining at RauDZ; an aprs cocktail at Kettle Valley Steakhouse; the cellars at Mission Hill Family Estate
HOW BOUT THEM APPLES?

Canadas fruit basket sees the rst non-browning varieties The Okanagan Valleys moderate climate and rich silt are a boon for more than just winemakers. Since the S&O Railway arrived in 1892, the area around Kelowna has been one of the most important agricultural regions in British Columbia, particularly in terms of fruit. Today, the Okanagan provides Canada with 75 percent of its apricots, 40percent of its cherries and 20 percent of its peaches, plums, pears and apples. Now a local agriculture biotech rm called Okanagan Specialty Fruits has upped the ante. By modifying the gene that produces polyphenol oxidase (the enzyme that makes sliced apples turn brown), the company has created the worlds rst non-browning apple, dubbed the Arctic. Reactions have been mixed: Some worry that consumers may be nervous about genetically modied apples; others say the breakthrough will encourage people to eat more pre-sliced fruit instead of fries or chips. With government approval pending, the fate of the Arctic apple is uncertain, but the folks at Specialty Fruits remain bullish. If its successful, company president Neal Carter said last year, all the big guys will be piling in to be second.
on every ski mountain; in fact, you ponder the nancial viability of such a venture while skiing circles around snow ghosts the rest of the a ernoon. When the light nally starts to fade, you call it a day and return to Stonebridge for a shower. Warmly clad in an abundance of annel, you walk back into the village to nd a lively crowd at The BullWheel, a sporty burger bar with hockey on several TVs. Youve heard the bit about Canadians being friendly, but here the patrons are so personable that within minutes nearly everyone at the bar has leaned in to smell the maple-finished Crown Royal youre drinking. I think they age it in maple syrup barrels? ventures one patron as a friendly debate erupts about how its made. (A quick check with
Google shows that it is nished in mapletoasted oak barrels.) Before long, The BullWheels famously gregarious and well-traveled manager, Al, is regaling the assembled company with the story of the time he drove a threewheeled mototaxi across the Peruvian Andes (the jersey Al wore on said trip, along with a few of his other sartorial artifacts, can be found on the bars walls). Although you would love to stay and hear more, your stomach has started grumbling. So you take a gondola over to Kettle Valley Steakhouse, where your waiter suggests a local wine to pair with a 1-inch cowboy-cut rib steak in Madagascar peppercorn sauce. The result is a meal be ing someone who skied 20,000 vertical feet today (namely, you).
FAIREST OF THEM ALL? The non-browning Arctic apple
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COURTESY OKANAGAN SPECIALTY FRUITS
PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY
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SLOPE AND GLORY Carving through the trees at Big White; below right, nachos with all the xings at The BullWheel
Because skiers are notoriously early to riseand therefore early to drinkits still barely evening when youve nished eating. Theres no way youre ge ing to bed without a nightcap. You opt for the legendary Gunbarrel Coffeedecaf, of courseat the Gunbarrel Grill. Working from a cart in what looks like the lodge of an exceptionally talented hunting family, your waiter heats a sugar-rimmed glass and lls it with brandy, coee and cream, then pours flaming Grand Marnier down the barrel of a shotgun into your drink. The other patrons clap in awe as this process is completed; within minutes, similar carts bearing shotguns appear at many of their tables. Launching the evenings drinking festivities, you decide, is enough of an accomplishment to merit hanging up your ski beanie for the day.
DAY TWO | Your legs are screaming from yesterdays powderfest, so you skip the hill and sleep in awhile before strolling over to Sant for a leisurely breakfast of eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and capers. A er that, youre o to see a man about 31 dogs. The mans name is Tim, and the dogs are Alaskan huskies. As the proprietors of Candle Creek Kennels, Tim and wife Kerry have adopted a passel of mu s that didnt quite make Iditarod teams, in addition to other unwanted sled dogs from all over British Columbia. While Tim selects the dogs for todays ride, it becomes clear that the energetic pups still really enjoy pulling sleds, Iditarod or no. They hop on top of their doghouses, bark, roll around on the ground and chomp mouthfuls of snow. Once roped in, the eight lucky winners pull you on a zippy three-mile loop through a
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solemn pine woodand even pose for pictures before you grudgingly take your leave. On your way back to the gondola, you cant help but notice what looks like a 60-foot, powder-blue frozen waterfall. You stop into a nearby warming shed to ask what its for, and find yourself quickly outfitted with crampons, a harness and a pair of pickaxes. Jim, a certied climbing guide with almost four decades experience, hooks you into a top rope as he informs you that this is Big Whites Ice Climbing Tower. Just, uh, climb it? you say, and Jim nods as if scaling a six-story column of ice is the easiest thing in the world. Ten agonizing minutes later, you actually reach the top and, with your pickax, ring a small bell that hangs there. You think your back may CLASSICS ROCK punish you for this later, but youve earned Browsing rare books at some mighty impressive pictures. Pulp Fiction Coffee House To celebrate, you take the gondola to Globe, a petite tapas joint known for having the best OK, maybe a li le more than an hour. You eventually amble coee on the mountain. There you scarf down a sandwich of Italian charcuterie followed by a set of smores, which arrive downtown to Waterfront, a restaurant and wine bar whose chef, Mark Filatow, is one of the few in Canada who are also members alongside a ame for roasting the house-made marshmallows. In a sugary fog, you bid farewell to Big White and drive down of the prestigious Sommelier Guild. With his help, you order into the town of Kelowna itself, where you check into the lake- a round of creamy Pacic oysters, braised porkstued ravioli front Hotel Eldorado. Your room reminds you of a boathouse, in white wine and pance a cream, and a bu ery duck breast with mushroom and spaetzle saut paired with glasses of with antiqued wood oors, cozy cream linens and the occasional paddle mounted on the wall. Still a bit chilled, youre immediately spectacular local riesling and pinot noir. A waiter arrives with drawn to the programmable whirlpool tub in an alcove with a dessert menu, buta er two days of skiing, ice climbing and waterfront windows (covered with white wooden slats, adjustable dogsleddingyoure spent. You head back to the hotel and reluctantly close the slats. for privacy). Dinner, you decide, can wait an hour.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD
Alyn Nash
SNOW PRO, BIG WHITE SKI & BOARD SCHOOL
Valaura Vedan
CONTENT MANAGER/EDITOR, WELCOMETOKELOWNA.COM
Kim Dillabaugh
ASSISTANT COACH, KELOWNA ROCKETS HOCKEY TEAM
The Crawford Trails at Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park are fantastic for mountain biking. Theyre 10 minutes outside of town, but you might not see anyone there apart from your friends.
I love the Grateful Fed. Its a pub, but an almost insanely small one. They just started an acoustic jam session on Saturdays. How they t a band in there, Ill never know.
Theres a pub-ish restaurant downtown called Sturgeon Hall. Its about two blocks from Prospera Place [where the Rockets play], so people go there to have dinner before the game.
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R d.
Waterfront
Par kin son
Clement Ave.
1 mile
RauDZ Pulp Fiction Coffee House
Olive & Elle

Hwy. 97
Richter St.
Gordon Dr.
W
estlake Rd.
Hw
y.
97
. am R Willi
Benn
ett B
ridge
Rose Ave.
Pandosy St.
Stevens Rd.
7 y. 9 Hw
DAY ONE DAY TWO DAY THREE

E. Boundary Rd.
Boucherie Rd.
K.L.O. Rd.
Okanagan Lake
so Ca
so
Rd.
Hotel Eldorado Quails Gate Kelowna - 39 miles Mission Hill Family Estate
BIG WHITE SKI RESORT

hite Rd. Big W
Stonebridge Lodge Gunbarrel Sant Grill Globe The BullWheel Beanos Coffee Parlor Carvers
W Big
h it
eR
Ice Climbing Tower Kettle Valley Steakhouse Candle Creek Kennels
DAY ONE Stonebridge Lodge 5257 Big White Rd.; Tel. 250-765-8888 Beanos Coffee Parlor Village Centre Mall; Tel. 250-491-3558 Carvers Inn at Big White; Tel. 250491-2009 The BullWheel Whitefoot Lodge; Tel. 250-765-6551 Kettle Valley Steakhouse Happy Valley Day Lodge; Tel. 250-491-0130 Gunbarrel Grill Snowshoe Sams; Tel. 250-765-1416
DAY TWO Sant White Crystal Inn; Tel. 250-491-8122 Candle Creek Kennels Big White Ski Resort; Tel. 250-491-6111 Ice Climbing Tower Big White Ski Resort; Tel. 250-491-6111 Globe Trappers Crossing; Tel. 250-765-1501 Hotel Eldorado 500 Cook Rd.; Tel. 250-763-7500 Waterfront 1180 Sunset Dr.; Tel. 250-979-1222
DAY THREE Pulp Fiction Coffee House 1598 Pandosy St.; Tel. 778-484-7444 Olive & Elle 1585 Pandosy St.; Tel. 250-862-2778 Quails Gate 3303 Boucherie Rd.; Tel. 250-769-4451 Mission Hill Family Estate 1730 Mission Hill Rd.; Tel. 250-768-7611 RauDZ 1560 Water St.; Tel. 250-868-8805
d.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 MAP BY STEVE STANKIEWICZ
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Kelownas famous wineries, and you want to be able to taste as much as you like. The rst stop is Quails Gate, a homey oak-andbrick aair with a roaring replace and a tasting room overlooking the vines in their ranks. A friendly attendant pours you some delicate riesling and a rich, spicy pinot noir. Another specialty, you learn, is the Quails Gate chenin blanc, which was served to President Obama on his first visit to Canada, in 2009. You order a glass with your lunch of crab cakes and parsnip soup in the winerys restaurant. Next up: Mission Hill Family Estate , a grand Mediterranean-inspired hilltop palazzo. With vines located in ve pockets all over the Okanagan Valley, Mission Hill can make anything from supremely light viogniers to heady bordeaux blends. You ask for a representative sample and then beeline it to the capacious courtyard to enjoy the view. After returning to the Eldorado and indulging in a lengthy nap, youre o to dinner at RauDZ, a restaurant that focuses on the bounty of the Okanagan, historically the breadbasket of British Columbia. You settle on venison carpaccio with apples and walnuts, and a veggie-stacked cheeseburger the size of your head. A er all that wine, youre thinking you might try something dierent to drink. Luckily, bartender Gerry Jobe has just the thing: the whiskey old-fashioned that won him the gold in a recent cocktail competition. As he stands at your table lling a lantern with chocolate and tobacco smoke in preparation for mixing your cocktail, you marvel at the amount of time hes spending on you. Come to think of it, you didnt even make a reservation. You wonder if the other kids really need to know that this particular playground exists. You take a sip of your cocktail. Let them have Whistler.
SHIPSHAPE At the lakeside getaway Hotel Eldorado
DAY THREE | Its a struggle to leave the view from your room at the Eldorado, but seeing all the boats in their slips reminds you that Kelowna has free Sunday parking, so you drive downtown to check out the shops. On Pandosy Street, you stumble upon Pulp Fiction Coffee House, which provides you with a crumbly blueberry scrumpet
and a creamy cappuccino to enjoy as you flip through covers of racy 1950s dimestore novels. Across the street is the winsome boutique Olive & Elle, where you pick up some French-style soaps and red plaid annel blankets as gi s. Outside, you meet up with a local whos agreed to drive you around for the a ernoon. Youre planning to visit a few of
Brooklyn-based Hemispheres senior editor JACQUELINE DETWILER thinks New York City is like a giant playground that all the other kids have discovered.
BOARDING PASS
From its many wineries, inviting shops and delicious eateries to its adventure-ready mountains and pristine lake, the town of Kelowna, British Columbia, epitomizes year-round appeal. United can take you nonstop from Los Angeles to Kelowna, or y you to Vancouver (a not-too-lengthy drive away) from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Houston, Denver and Chicago, plus seasonal service from New York/Newark and Washington, D.C. Before boarding, consider purchasing a day pass to relax in a spacious United Club; memberships are also available. For detailed schedule information or to book your ight, go to united.com.
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ENTERTAINMENT 106 DIRECTV 108 Film & Television 112 Audio Programming 114 Crossword 116 Sudoku INFORMATION 119 Route Maps 124 Customs & Immigration 125 Our Fleet 126 Terminal Diagrams 130 Safety & Travel Assistance 132 MileagePlus 133 Alliances & Partnerships 144 Food & Beverages
ENTERTAINMENT
DIRECTV IN FLIGHT allows you to select from
DIRECTV
more than 100 channels of live television along with a full slate of blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV and stay entertained for your entire ight.
Available on select 737 and 757 aircraft
What you want to watch
OVER 100 CHANNELS You can get more than 100 of your favorite TV channels. From big movies to sports to family programming, we have the best in entertainment.
MOVIES Choose from a lineup of top Hollywood lms, including director Ang Lees critically acclaimed adaptation of Yann Martels bestselling novel, Life of Pi (left); the behind-the-scenes biopic Hitchcock (right); the Steven Spielbergdirected opus Lincoln; plus Cloud Atlas, Peter Pan, Wreck-It Ralph, Argo and Chasing Mavericks. Or, browse for movies on live TV.
Your favorite TV channels

A&E ABC FAMILY ANIMAL BBCA BeIN BET BIG 10 BIO BLOOMBERG BOOM BRAVO CARTOON CBS CENTRIC CHILLER CLOO CMT CNBC CNN COMEDY COOK C-SPAN C-SPAN2 CW DEST DISCOVERY 265 311 282 264 620 329 610 266 353 298 237 296 390 330 257 308 327 355 202 249 232 350 351 394 286 278 DISNEY DISNEY JR. DISNEY XD DIY E! ESPN ESPN CLASSIC ESPN2 ESPNEWS ESPNU FOOD FOX FOX BUSINESS FOX MOVIE FOX NEWS FOX SOCCER FUEL FX GALA GOLF GOSPEL GSN H2 HALLMARK HGTV HISTORY 290 289 292 230 236 206 614 209 207 208 231 398 359 258 360 619 618 248 404 218 338 233 271 312 229 269 HLN HUB INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MILITARY MLB NETWORK MSNBC MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NBC NBC SPORTS NFL NETWORK NICK NICK JR. NICK TOON NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OXYGEN RED ZONE REELZ RURAL TV 204 294 285 280 252 253 375 287 213 356 331 333 276 392 220 212 299 301 302 378 606 274 251 703 238 345 SCIENCE SOAP SPEED SPIKE SPORTSMAN STYLE SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV GUIDE TV LAND TVG TWC UNI SPORTS UNIVISION USA VH1 VH1 CLASSIC WGN WORD 284 262 607 241 605 235 244 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 273 304 602 362 625 402 242 335 337 307 373
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FILMS ARE SHOWN on ights of three hours or
Film & Television

ENJOY THESE MOVIES AND SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN
longer. Movies are available on most 737, 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft ights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. En el canal 10 encontrar pelculas y programas de televisin disponibles en Espaol.
Films DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES
EASTBOUND
MAR. 1-15
WESTBOUND Skyfall [T] Life of Pi Life of Pi Skyfall [T] NORTHBOUND Hitchcock [T] Silver Linings Playbook [T]
Hitchcock [T] Silver Linings Playbook [T] Silver Linings Playbook [T] Hitchcock [T] SOUTHBOUND
NORTH AMERICA
MAR. 16-31 MAR. 1-15
HAWAII
MAR. 16-31
LATIN AMERICA & CARIBBEAN
MAR. 1-15 MAR. 16-31
Skyfall [T] Life of Pi
Flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will show both lms. Select lms are shown on ights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia ights on 737 and 777 aircraft.
Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING

Go On New Girl [T] Shark Tank Ultimate Aquariums The Big Bang Theory [T] Up All Night Chopped Auction Kings How I Met Your Mother [T] Man Caves Parks and Recreation [T] The Mentalist [T] Two and a Half Men [T] The Office [T] In Vogue: The Editors Eye [T] Pawn Stars
[T] = Adult themes
Wi-Fi update
Wi-Fi installations have begun on select aircraft, and we are working with our partners to complete certications for additional aircraft types. We plan to have more than 300 aircraft ying with Wi-Fi by the end of this year, and more than 500 by the end of 2014.
Follow our installation progress at united.com/wifi.
108
MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for
airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a lm.
CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of R or less.
WHAT DO YOU THINK of our programming? Were open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.
Hitchcock [T]
Set during the making of Alfred Hitchcocks seminal thriller, Psycho, this biopic focuses on the true love story of the hugely inuential British suspense director and his wife and longtime creative partner, Alma Reville. FEATURING Anthony Hopkins, Helen Mirren DIRECTED BY Sacha Gervasi
1 hr. 38 min.
Life of Pi
Marooned on a lifeboat in the middle of the ocean after escaping a sinking cargo ship, a young Indian man named Pi forms an unexpected connection with one of the ships other survivors, a fearsome Bengal tiger. FEATURING Suraj Sharma, Irrfan Khan, Adil Hussain DIRECTED BY Ang Lee
2 hr. 1 min.
Silver Linings Playbook [T]

After a stint in a mental institution, Pat wants nothing more than to get his old life back, including reuniting with his estranged wife. Then Pat meets Tiffany, a mysterious girl with problems of her own, and things get complicated. FEATURING Jennifer Lawrence, Bradley Cooper DIRECTED BY David O. Russell
2 hr.
Skyfall [T]
Superspy James Bond nds his loyalties tested when the past comes back to haunt his boss, M. But as MI6 itself comes under attack, 007 must track down and destroy the threat, no matter how personal the cost. FEATURING Daniel Craig, Judi Dench, Javier Bardem DIRECTED BY Sam Mendes
2 hr.
109
ENTERTAINMENT
Film & Television

THE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS
INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfgbar). (J) 2 (C) 23 (K) 2,3
(G) German (J) Japanese (C) Chinese (K) Korean
B747 Mainscreen Programming

FROM U.S. Hitchcock [T] 1 hr., 38 min. Silver Linings Playbook [T] 2 hr. U.K.
2 hr.
TO U.S. Skyfall [T] 2 hr. Life of Pi 2 hr., 1 min.

2 hr.
Alex Cross [T] 1 hr., 39 min.

2 hr.
Here Comes the Boom 1 hr., 45 min.

2 hr.
Hitchcock (G) [T] 1 hr., 38 min. Silver Linings Playbook (G) [T] 2 hr. GERMANY
2 hr.
Skyfall (G) [T] 2 hr. Life of Pi (G) 2 hr., 1 min.

2 hr.
Alex Cross (G) [T] 1 hr., 39 min. Chasing Mavericks (G) 1 hr., 56 min.
2 hr.
Here Comes the Boom (G) 1 hr., 45 min. Wreck-It Ralph (G) 1 hr., 41 min.
2 hr.
Skyfall [T] 2 hr.

2 hr.
Hitchcock [T] 1 hr., 38 min.

2 hr.
Life of Pi 2 hr., 1 min. AUSTRALIA

2 hr.
Silver Linings Playbook [T] 2 hr.

2 hr.
Here Comes the Boom 1 hr., 45 min. Wreck-It Ralph 1 hr., 41 min.
2 hr.
Alex Cross [T] 1 hr., 39 min. Chasing Mavericks 1 hr., 56 min.

2 hr.
Skyfall (J, K) [T] 2 hr.

2 hr.
Hitchcock (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.

2 hr.
JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA
Life of Pi (J, K) 2 hr., 1 min.

2 hr.
Silver Linings Playbook (J, K) [T] 2 hr.

2 hr.
Here Comes the Boom (J, K) 1 hr., 45 min. Wreck-It Ralph (K) 1 hr., 41 min.
2 hr.
Alex Cross (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 39 min. Chasing Mavericks (J, K) 1 hr., 56 min.
2 hr.
Skyfall (C) [T] 2 hr.

2 hr.
Hitchcock (C) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.

2 hr.
CHINA & HONG KONG
Life of Pi (C) 2 hr., 1 min.

2 hr.
Silver Linings Playbook (C) [T] 2 hr.

2 hr.
Here Comes the Boom (C) 1 hr., 45 min. Wreck-It Ralph (C) 1 hr., 41 min.
2 hr.
Alex Cross (C) [T] 1 hr., 39 min. Chasing Mavericks (C) 1 hr., 56 min.
2 hr.
FROM JAPAN THAILAND, TAIWAN & SINGAPORE

*THAILAND AND SINGAPORE FLIGHTS ONLY
TO JAPAN Pitch Perfect (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 52 min. Arbitrage* (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 47 min.
2 hr.
Trouble With the Curve (J, C) [T] 1 hr., 51 min. The Words* (C) [T] 1 hr., 37 min.
2 hr.
2 hr. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult themes
110
DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs between
the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your ight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.
Alex Cross [T]

A D.C. homicide detective is pushed to his psychological and moral limits when a diabolical foe hits close to home. FEATURING Tyler Perry, Matthew Fox, Rachel Nichols DIRECTED BY Rob Cohen
1 hr. 39 min.
Chasing Mavericks
Aided by a veteran surfer, a teen embarks on a quest to ride some of the biggest and most dangerous waves in the world. FEATURING Gerard Butler, Jonny Weston, Elisabeth Shue DIRECTED BY Michael Apted and Curtis Hanson
1 hr. 56 min.
Here Comes the Boom

As school cutbacks loom, biology instructor Scott Voss raises money by becoming a mixed martial arts ghter. FEATURING Kevin James, Salma Hayek, Henry Winkler DIRECTED BY Frank Coraci
1 hr. 45 min.
Pitch Perfect [T]

Campus newcomer Beca leads her schools singing group in a bid to rule the cutthroat world of college a cappella. FEATURING Anna Kendrick, Brittany Snow, Rebel Wilson DIRECTED BY Jason Moore
1 hr. 52 min.
Trouble With the Curve [T]

To avoid being forced out of the job he loves, an aging baseball scout must rely on his estranged daughter for help. FEATURING Clint Eastwood, Amy Adams, John Goodman DIRECTED BY Robert Lorenz
1 hr. 51 min.
Wreck-It Ralph
A reluctant video-game villain attempts to become a hero, only to nd hes unleashed chaos in the arcade. VOICES BY John C. Reilly, Jack McBrayer, Jane Lynch DIRECTED BY Rich Moore
1 hr. 41 min.
111
ENTERTAINMENT
Audio Programming
Audio Mixes
Featuring songs by Roy Orbison, Cream, Fleetwood Mac and more
Featuring songs by Meat Loaf, Toto, Cheap Trick and more
Featuring songs by Duran Duran, Tiffany, Starship and more
Featuring songs by Brian Eno, Enya, Runestone and more
Featuring a chronology of songs by John Lennon
Featuring compositions performed by orchestras from New York to Stuttgart
Featuring songs by Martina McBride, Trace Adkins, Toby Keith and more
Featuring Chinese popular music including cantopop and mandopop
Featuring songs by DJ Fresh, David Guetta, Duck Sauce and more
Featuring songs by Joss Stone, Snow Patrol, Josh Groban and more
Featuring songs by Ella Fitzgerald, Julie London, George Benson and more
Featuring songs by Exile, AKB48, Sukima Switch and more
Featuring songs by Super Junior, Girls Generation and Wonder Girls
Featuring songs by Johnny Pacheco, Sergio Mendes and more
Featuring songs by Paramore, Foo Fighters, Sublime With Rome and more
Featuring songs by Akon, Jordin Sparks, John Legend and more
Featuring songs by Elvis Presley, Bobby Darin, the Shirelles and more
Featuring songs by Miley Cyrus, Justin Bieber, Selena Gomez and more
Featuring songs by Adele, Beyonc, Lady Gaga and more
Download the complete playlist at www.united.com/play.
Podcasts
Stimulate your curiosity and learn something new during your ight. Some of the most engaging content from American Public Media and Quick and Dirty Tips is now available on aircraft with personal on-demand entertainment. Tune in and enjoy! Note: May be listed under All music on some aircraft.
112
CHANNEL 9 Listen for your ight number to hear live communication between the ight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all ights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captains discretion.
Audio Channels by Aircra

CHANNEL
777 Movie (English) Todays hits R&B Classical Country 60s 70s 80s From the ight deck Movie (Dubbed) Modern rock
SELECT A320 Movie (English) Todays hits R&B 60s Country Classical 70s 80s From the ight deck Movie (Dubbed) Modern rock
A319 & A320 Movie (English) Todays hits R&B Classical Country From the ight deck Movie (Dubbed) 60s
747 Movie (English) Movie (Dubbed) Movie (Dubbed) Classical Country 60s 70s 80s From the ight deck or R&B Todays hits Teen pop
737 & 757-300 Movie (English) Todays hits R&B Classical Country 60s 70s 80s
757 & 767 Movie (English) Todays hits R&B Classical Country 60s 70s 80s From the ight deck or Modern rock Movie (Dubbed)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
Movie (Dubbed) Modern rock Latin or J-pop on Micronesia ights
Latin
Latin
70s
K-pop
Dance Ambient Artist spotlight Jazz J-pop Easy listening Teen pop
Dance Ambient Artist spotlight
80s Modern rock Artist spotlight
J-pop C-pop
113
ENTERTAINMENT
Crossword
SHADES OF WHITE
BY GREG BRUCE
ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you ll in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so its replaced. Answers on page 64
114
ACROSS
1 5 8 11 15 16 18 20 21 22 24 25 26 28 29 30 32 35 37 39 41 42 45 47 49 51 53 55 56 57 59 64 65 66 67 68 70 72 73 74 75 76 77 79 80 83 84
Skedaddled Elbows site ___ de Triomphe Prelude to a duel Bouquet tosser Agonizing Back biter Events, happenings, etc. Italian dish cooked with broth Online newsgroup system Foot part Day to remember Prod Expert Flood preventer (U.K. var.) Electrifying swimmer Live Summary Enrich Propose Characteristic carrier Pal Place to hibernate Exhausted Tell tales Casino wheel game Fables message Wrangler alternative Outt Lowlife Offering to the church Hardened Governors domain Yacht Reason for overtime Tucked in Campre offering, perhaps Lash mark Aero or para nish Feudal slave Once more Road crew supply South Carolinas state tree Cut corners Gilbert and Sullivan title character Bonanza nd Psycho setting
86 88 92 93 94 95 96 98 100 102 105 106 110 111 113 115 117 119 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129
Dashboard display Parsnip, e.g. Peel Glaziers item Outward ow Be a monarch In the country Snafu Take down a peg Swan Lake, e.g. Operative Slacken Film directors cry Complain Plaster base Candy treat Stereo setting Dwell on Laughable Water nymph Steel source One in a gaggle Render ___ Caesar ... Bill Traffic stopper Dry as dust
DOWN
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 17 19 20 23 27 31 33 34 Search for arms Doorframe support Barely beat ___ Housewives Tax-ling month Police action Scrooge Back Same old, same old Sun blockers Very pleased with oneself Winners victim Hearty brew Nostrum Scrawny Mr. Potato Head accessory Take back ___ not! Portable dwelling Harness strap Polish language Future fungus Wee bit
36 38 40 42 43 44 46 47 48 50 52 54 58 60 61 62
Everglades wader Watchful Soapmakers need Lingerie buy Nonsense Surpass in the market Road stop convenience Suffix with black or silver Many a sitcom mom of yore Harvest Told a whopper Tots treat Bringing up the rear Blessing Go over again Fix a squeak
63 65 66 68 69 70 71 72 74 76 78 79 80 81 82 85 87 88
Safety device Seasoned sailor Lambaste Nile reptile Fluffy accessory Celestial streaker Like a gymnast Boat trailer? Dustin Hoffman lm Lifes partner Customs Hold off Fat cat Cotillion girl Globe Its worn by some Libras Like many a cellar Plot of land
89 90 91 97 99 101 103 104 105 107 108 109 112 114 116 118 120 121
Tigers school Mesa relative Oompah maker Lewis Carroll critter High-tech detector Showy display Flair Small drum with a fe Rip up Bad treatment Hot under the collar Conclusion Fix up Dashed Double-reed instrument Coal container Ballpark g. High return
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ENTERTAINMENT
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8:00 pm 7:00 pm 9:00 pm 10:00 pm 11:00 pm 12:00 MON. 12:00 SUN. MIDNIGHT 1:00 am
ARCTIC OC
Route Maps
INTERNATIONAL CITIES
Route lines do not reect actual ight path
United/United Express
RUSSIA
United Seasonal Service United Future Service CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary
AL (U
2:00
Khabarovsk Harbin Changchun Shenyang Hohhot Beijing Tianjin Dalian Sapporo
Ulaanbataar
MONGOLIA
8:00 pm
CHINA
Baotou
N. KOREA
JAPAN
Niigata
Yangon
THAILAND
Khon Kaen
5:30
Bangkok Phnom Penh Krabi Phuket Hat Yai Penang Kuala Lumpur Singapore
South China Sea
9:00 pm
COMMONWEALTH OF NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS
Luzon Island
Manila
Saipan Rota
CAMBODIA VIETNAM
PHILIPPINES
Cebu Yap Kota Kinabalu Bandar Seri Begawan
GUAM
MARSHALL ISLANDS
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
Kwajalein Pohnpei Chuuk (Truk) Majuro Kosrae
MALAYSIA
Palau
FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA
BRUNEI I N D O N E S I A PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Denpasar Bali
Jakarta
INDIAN OCEAN
Darwin
Coral Sea
Cairns
International Date Line
Sendai Komatsu Seoul S. KOREA TOKYO Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita Ningbo Kagoshima 6:00 Hangzhou Chongqing Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Guiyang BHUTAN Fuzhou Guwahati Guangzhou Okinawa Kunming Taipei Xiamen BANGLADESH Guilin Agartala Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Dhaka BURMA Hanoi Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane Zhengzhou Qingdao
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WESTERN SAMOA FIJI

Nadi Niue Nuku Alofa Rarotonga
FR
AUSTRALIA
Brisbane
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NEW CALEDONIA
1:00
Norfolk Island
to San Franci to Los Angeles
9:30 pm
Perth Adelaide Melbourne
Gold Coast
Hermosillo
Sydney
Ch
Guaymas
Tasman Sea
Nelson
Auckland Hamilton Rotorua Napier-Hastings
Du Los Cabos
NEW ZEALAND
Queenstown
Palmerston North Wellington Blenheim Christchurch
Ag
Dunedin
Puerto Vallar Manz Guada M
Ixtapa
Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com. 2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
World time zones shown in Standard Time. 9:00 pm 10:00 pm 11:00 pm 12:00 MIDNIGHT 1:00 am
PACIF
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8:00 pm
2:00 am
3:00 am 4:00 am
5:00 am
6:00 am
7:00 am
8:00 am
9:00 am
10:
EAN
GREENLAND
LASKA U.S.)
Fairbanks
Anchorage
Hudson Bay
9:30 CANADA
Seattle
U.S.A.
CHICAGO (OHARE) SAN FRANCISCO LOS ANGELES HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) DENVER CLEVELAND
New York (La Guardia)
WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)
NEW YORK (NEWARK)
Hor
Chihuahua
Austin San Antonio
Bermuda
Saltillo Monterrey Santo Torreon Nassau Domingo MEXICO Durango Tampico Aguadilla Los Cabos Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Antigua Belize Guadalajara Bay Port-au- Punta Oaxaca Tuxtla Roatan Cana Morelia Prince Huatulco Gutirrez San Pedro Sula Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa Aruba Acapulco Guatemala City Bonaire Barranquilla NIC. Port-of-Spain Panama San Salvador Caracas COSTA City Managua Maracaibo Valencia RICA PANAMA Liberia Cartagena VENEZUELA SURINAME Bucaramanga GUYANA Medellin Cali
COLOMBIA
FRENCH GUIANA
PACIFIC OCEAN
Quito Guayaquil
ECUADOR
ATL
Manaus Fortaleza
PERU
BRAZIL
Natal Recife Macei
Lima
Salvador Cuzco
RENCH POLYNESIA
Papeete
BOLIVIA
Santa Cruz
Brasilia Goiania Campo Grande Belo Horizonte Rio de Janeiro
10:0
CHILE
isco
to Denver
to Cleveland
to New York (Newark)
to to New York New York (La Guardia) (Newark)
PARAGUAY
Iguassu Falls
HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) San Austin hihuahua Antonio
to Washington (Dulles)
ARGENTINA
Curitiba Florianopolis Porto Alegre
Bermuda
Cordoba
Piedras Saltillo Negras Monterrey Matamoros Durango MEXICO Ciudad Victoria
URUGUAY
Santiago Buenos Aires Montevideo
Santiago Samana Santo Domingo Aguadilla Havana San Juan Tampico Providenciales guascalientes Vieques Queretaro Tepic Cozumel St. Thomas Poza Rica Puerto Plata Tortola Jalapa rta Ciudad del Grand Cayman Anguilla zanillo Veracruz Carmen Mexico Montego St. Maarten City Puebla Port-aualajara Belize Bay Punta Ponce Antigua Prince Oaxaca Kingston Morelia Cana St. Croix Roatan Pointe a Pitre Lazaro Mayagez St. Kitts San Pedro Sula Cardenas Martinique Nevis Puerto Huatulco St. Lucia Tegucigalpa a/Zihuatanejo Escondido Villahermosa Barbados San Andres Aruba Acapulco Bonaire Island Guatemala City NIC. Grenada Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City FIC OCEAN Liberia PANAMA Torreon Nassau
COLOMBIA VENEZUELA
2:00 am
3:00 am
4:00 am
5:00 am
6:00 am
7:00 am
8:00 am
9:00 am
10:
:00 am
11:00 am
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ARCTIC OCEAN
Tromso Alta
Lulea Reykjavik
ICELAND
Oulu
Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Vaasa Molde SWEDEN
2:00 pm
FINLAND
Helsinki Tallinn St. Petersburg
NORWAY
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RUSSIA
4:00 5:00 pm
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HER.
Edinburgh
Moscow
4:00
6:00 pm
Astana
Donetzk Krasnodar
C
n Sea pia as
KAZAKHSTAN
SPAIN
PORTUGAL
Barcelona Madrid Algiers Nador Oran
rta
Lisbon
12:00
Casablanca Funchal
CANARY ISLANDS
MOROCCO
Tenerife Las Palmas
ALGERIA
WESTERN SAHARA
Alma-Ata Bishkek UZBEKISTAN GEORGIATbilisi Skopje Baku 5:00 Tashkent KYRGYZSTAN Batumi Istanbul Tirana ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN Kayseri ALB. GREECE Izmir Dushanbe TURKEYYerevan TAJIKISTAN Athens Antalya Adana Gaziantep Bodrum Ashgabat Erbil Tunis Malta Rhodes Ercan Larnaca AFGHAN. Islamabad CYPRUS Beirut Mashad Tehran TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Jammu Peshawar SYRIA Baghdad Damascus Tripoli Tel Aviv IRAN Amritsar 4:30 ISRAEL Lahore Amman IRAQ Benghazi Alexandria Chandigarh 3:30 Kathmandu JORDAN Kuwait 5:00 Cairo Delhi NEPAL PAKISTAN Dammam 2:00 pm QATAR Jaipur LIBYA Lucknow Bahrain Luxor Dubai Karachi Riyadh Doha Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi Rome
MONT. SERB. Sofia KOS.
Black Sea
EGYPT
U. A. E.
Jeddah
Muscat
OMAN
Ahmedabad
INDIA
Nagpur Pune
Kolkata
MAURITANIA
Sal
CAPE VERDE ISLANDS
MALI
SAUDI ARABIA
Raipur
NIGER
Mumbai
Dakar Banjul
SENEGAL
1:00 pm
Kano
BENIN TOGO
CHAD
ERITREA
Khartoum
GUINEA BISSAU
GAMBIA Bamako BURKINA FASO Ouagadougou Bissau GUINEA
SUDAN
Asmara
Sanaa
DJIBOUTI
YEMEN
4:00 pm
Arabian Sea
Goa Mangalore Bangalore Chennai (Madras) Coimbatore
Conakry Freetown
SIERRA LEONE
Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo Sao Tome Yaounde Libreville
NIGERIA
Monrovia LIBERIA
CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala
SOUTH SUDAN
Juba
UGANDA
Addis Ababa
Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum
ETHIOPIA
Colombo
SOMALIA KENYA
LANTIC OCEAN
EQUATORIAL GUINEA
DEM. REP. CONGO
Entebbe Kigali
RWANDA
SRI LANKA MALDIVES

Mah
GABON CONGO SAO TOME & PRINCIPE
Nairobi
BURUNDI TANZANIA
Pointe Noire
Bujumbura Kinshasa
Dar Es Salaam
SEYCHELLES
INDIAN OCEAN
5:00 pm
FINLAND
Luanda
2:00 pm
Lubumbashi
3:00 pm
COMOROS
MALAWI
4:00 pm
NORWAY
6:00 pm
ANGOLA
00 am
NAMIBIA
Windhoek
ZAMBIA
Lusaka
MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE
Lilongwe Atlantic Harare Ocean
Bergen
Oslo SWEDEN Stockholm
Helsinki
Stavanger
MADAGASCAR Aberdeen
ESTONIA
BOTSWANA
Manzini Maputo
SCOTLAND
Aalborg Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

DENMARK
Gothenburg
Gaborone Johannesburg Bloemfontein Maseru
Riga Copenhagen Malmo Gdansk Palanga

LITHUANIA RUSSIA
LATVIA
SOUTH AFRICA
Cape Town Port Elizabeth
East London
Cities served by select airline partners that are not visible on the map: Manzini, Swaziland Durban, South Africa Maputo, Mozambique Harare, Zimbabwe Lilongwe, Malawi
Vilnius Kaliningrad Bremen Hamburg POLAND BELARUS Dublin WALES Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Muenster Cork GERMANY Leipzig London BELGIUM Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne Frankfurt UKRAINE CZECH Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Stuttgart Munich Paris Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Ljubljana Geneva Verona Lyon Venice Zagreb Bucharest TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse SERBIA Sarajevo La Coruna BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona KOS. Bilbao Sofia Dubrovnik Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. SPAIN Barcelona Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki Madrid PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos Faro Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion Manchester
0313
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12:00 NOON
1:00 pm
Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert Sand Spit Smithers Terrace Fort St. John Fort McMurray to Fairbanks Prince George Grande Prairie
to Anchorage
C O LU M B I A
Pacic Time Zone B R I T I S H 4:00

Kamloops Kelowna Penticton
Mountain Time Zone 5:00

A L B E R TA
Edmonton
C A N A DA
Central Time Zone 6:00
S A S K AT C H E WA N MANITOBA
Nanaimo
Vancouver Victoria
Calgary
Saskatoon Seattle Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell Missoula Great Falls Helena North Bend Medford Crescent City Eureka Klamath Falls Redmond
OREGON I DA H O
WA S H I N GT O N
Regina Winnipeg
Portland Eugene
Pasco
Glasgow Williston Minot

NORTH DA KO TA
PACIFIC OCEAN
Lewistown M O N TA NA Billings Sheridan
Grand MINNE SOTA Forks
Bozeman
Boise
Dickinson Bismarck Fargo
Du
Redding Chico
N E VA DA
Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls
Worland Jackson Hole
SOUTH Gillette Rapid City DA KO TA
Minne
Sacramento
Reno/Tahoe
Riverton Casper Chadron Rock Springs W YO M I N G
U N I T E D S TAT E S
Pierre Huron Sioux Falls

I OWA
SAN FRANCISCO
Modesto San Jose Mammoth Lakes Fresno Monterey Visalia

CA L I F O R N I A
Scottsbluff Salt Lake City Alliance Laramie Vernal Hayden/ NEBRASKA Cheyenne Omaha Steamboat North Platte U TA H Des Springs C O L O R A D O Grand Moines Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Kearney Lincoln Moab Aspen McCook St. George Montrose
C R Io
San Luis Obispo Santa Maria Santa Barbara
Inyokern Bakersfield
Las Vegas
Burbank LOS ANGELES Long Beach Ontario Orange County Carlsbad Palm Springs San Diego Yuma
Colorado Springs Gunnison/ Crested Hays Telluride Butte Page/ Cortez Pueblo Durango K A N S A S Kansas City Lake Powell Alamosa Garden City Farmington Great Bend Dodge City Flagstaff Wichita Liberal A R I Z O NA Santa Fe Sprin Prescott M Amarillo Show Low Tulsa Albuquerque Northwest Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Arkansas Tucson
NEW MEXICO
AR
Lubbock
OKLAHOMA
L R
Hobbs El Paso Midland/ Odessa
Dallas/ Fort Worth

TEXAS
Dallas (Love)
Tyler
Shrevepor
Killeen Honolulu Kapalua Kahului

Maui
LOUISIAN
College Station Alexandr
Del Rio
Lake Charles Lafayet HOUSTON San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) Beaumont/ Pt. Arthur Austin Laredo
Pacic Ocean
Kona
Hilo
Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com. 2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Corpus Christi McAllen Harlingen Brownsville
0 0 50
50 100
100 150
150 Miles 200 Kilometers 0

0 100 100 200 200 300 400 300 500 400 Miles 600 Kilometers
MEXICO
Route Maps
NORTH AMERICAN CITIES
Route lines do not reect actual ight path
United/United Express Route
United Seasonal Service United Future Service CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary
Goose Bay
Wabush
Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Deer Lake
Gander
NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR
Gaspe Baie-Comeau Mont-Joli Bathurst Saguenay
Gulf Of St. Lawrence

les de la Madeleine
Thunder Bay
Eastern Time Zone 7:00

Houghton
P R I N C E E DWARD Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown
Presque Isle Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

O N TA R I O
Moncton Fredericton
City
MAINE
Atlantic Time Zone 8:00
Saint John North Bay Ottawa Kingston

V T. Plattsburgh N.H. Burlington N E W YO R K SCOTIA Bangor Bar Harbor N OVA
uluth
Sudbury Sault Ste. Marie
Halifax
WISCONSIN
Wausau eapolis Eau Claire Green Bay Appleton/ Fox Cities
Portland Manchester
Traverse City
Toronto Syracuse M I C H I GA N Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Hartford/M A S S . Hyannis Milwaukee Rapids Flint Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Nantucket Elmira C.T. Providence Newburgh London Jamestown Lansing Madison Wilkes Barre/ New Haven White Detroit Windsor South Erie Bradford Scranton Long Island/Islip Plains Cedar Bend/Elkhart/ CLEVELAND Williamsport New York (La Guardia) Franklin Rapids/ Mishawaka N.J. (J.F. Kennedy) owa City State PAAllentown Akron/Canton NEW YORK (NEWARK) Dubois College OHIO Peoria Ft. Pittsburgh Moline Philadelphia Harrisburg Wayne Columbus Johnstown Baltimore Altoona ILLINOIS I N D I A NA Morgantown MARYLAND D E L . Dayton WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Clarksburg Springfield Indianapolis Parkersburg Shenandoah Salisbury Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) St. Louis Charlottesville Huntington Charleston Louisville Lewisburg Richmond Lexington Beckley Lynchburg Norfolk/Virginia Beach Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Newport News/Williamsburg ngfield Tri-Cities Regional Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Knoxville CA R O L I NA Nashville Greenville New Bern Charlotte Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE RKANSAS Greenville/ Jacksonville Spartanburg Chattanooga Memphis Little Wilmington Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Florence Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta Birmingham Montgomery
A L A BA M A
BERMUDA
Augusta
GEORGIA
CA R O L I NA
Charleston
Monroe Jackson rt
MISSISSIPPI
Hilton Head Island Savannah
NA
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Train Routes
Codeshare/MileagePlus Partner Service MileagePlus Eligible Service
ria
Baton Rouge
Mobile
Pensacola
Tallahassee
Jacksonville Gainesville Daytona Orlando Melbourne Treasure Cay Freeport Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau Andros Town Cat Island
Ft. Walton Gulfport/ Beach tte New Biloxi Orleans
Boston
F L O R I DA
Tampa/St. Petersburg
Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach
Newark (Liberty)
New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)
Gulf Of Mexico
Ft. Myers
Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC
Key West
BAHAMAS
ATLANTIC OCEAN
0313
George Town
1
CUBA
INFORMATION
Customs & Immigration

U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record
All travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants). Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your nal destination country. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return ight.
DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111
Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.
5 U.S.C. 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111
Arrival Record
Admission Number
000000000 00
U.S. Customs Declaration

All passengers (or one passenger per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your nal destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form.
1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 4. Country of Citizenship 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 8. Passport Number 10. Country Where You Live 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 5. Sex (Male or Female) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) 9. Airline and Flight Number 11. Country Where You Boarded 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)
CBP Form I-94 (05/08)
DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection
OMB No. 1651-0111
Expedited Passport Control and Customs Clearance in the U.S. Global Entry
U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) offers the Global Entry program in order to expedite the processing of preapproved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from international travel, Global Entryenrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry kiosk. Global Entry program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their ngertips on the scanner for ngerprint verication and make a customs declaration. The kiosk will issue the traveler a transaction receipt and direct the traveler to baggage claim and exit. Kiosks are located at major U.S. airports, as well as at several CBP Pre-Clearance locations. The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry: Citizens and residents of the U.S. Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium Citizens of South Korea who are enrolled in SES (Smart Entry Service) NEXUS members SENTRI members Application for enrollment in the Global Entry program is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES): goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only US$100, which covers enrollment in the program for a ve-year period. The government will review the applicants information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP officers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before nal approval is granted. MileagePlus compensates 2013 Global Services, Premier 1K and Premier Platinum members for the $100 Global Entry application fee (for new applications). Customers can verify their eligibility and receive their personalized code by visiting united.com/web/en-US/apps/mileageplus/globalentry/ default.aspx or united.com/premier. Global Entry members who are U.S. citizens are also eligible to participate in the TSA Pre program. TSA Pre allows select passengers traveling within the U.S. to qualify for expedited screening through TSA checkpoints at several airports. For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border Protection site, globalentry.gov.
Departure Record
Admission Number
000000000 00
18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 21. Country of Citizenship 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)
CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side STAPLE HERE
Left, U.S. Customs Declaration; right, U.S. I-94 Arrival/ Departure Record, which all U.S. visa holders must complete.
Heard the news? With TSA Pre , you can keep your shoes on!
TM
Some United MileagePlus members might have received an email with an invitation to participate in the Transportation Security Administrations expedited screening program, TSA Pre . Travelers can also participate by joining Global Entry. U.S. citizens who are Global Entry members and Canadian citizens who are NEXUS members receive an expedited customs process and may qualify for screening benets as well with TSA Pre .
TM TM
Scan the code to learn more or visit www.globalentry.gov.
124
Our Fleet leet
NER UPDATE 787 DREAMLINER In November 2012, United began scheduled domestic service new 787 Dreamliner, and in January we started on the brand-new international service on the 787 between Los Angeles and Tokyo. We are excited to expand our 787 service to destinations a and Africa in 2013. in Europe, Asia The Dreamliner offers a number of travel-enhancing features that will make your ight more enjoyable, including improved lighting, larger windows with electronic dimmers and more spacious overhead bins. Also, lower cabin altitude, enhanced
ventilation systems and higher humidity levels reduce the effects of jet lag on long-haul ights. The 787s innovative carbon composite structure makes the Dreamliner more fuel-efficient and environmentally friendly to y. In addition to reducing carbon emissions, the 787s design reduces noise during takeoff and landing. The 787s improved operating economics enable us to launch service between cities previously not served by United, such as the Denver-to-Tokyo service that starts this spring.
Fleet Facts
AIRCRAFT CRUISE SPEED
567 mph
CAPACITY
374 passengers
PROPULSION
Four Pratt & Whitney PW4062 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each
WINGSPAN
211 ft., 5 in.
747-400
777-200/-200ER
550 mph
Between 253 and 348 passengers
Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust each
199 ft., 11 in.
787-8
560 mph
219 passengers
Two General Electric GEnx turbofan engines, rated up to 69,800 pounds thrust each
197 ft., 4 in.
767-200ER/ -300ER/-400ER 757-200/-300
540 mph
Between 174 and 244 passengers Between 110 and 216 passengers Between 108 and 173 passengers Between 120 and 144 passengers
Two General Electric CF6-80C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2040 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust each Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 26,400 pounds thrust each
Up to 170 ft., 4 in.
540 mph
134 ft., 9 in.
737-500/-700/ -800/-900/-900ER A319/A320
530 mph
Up to 117 ft., 5 in.
530 mph
Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,000 pounds thrust each
111 ft., 11 in.
p.s. PREMIUM SERVICE: Weve started the process of a nose-to-tail refurbishment of our p.s. eet to offer the international experience on routes serving JFKLAX and JFKSFO. Our rst recongured aircraft began ying in January, and the reconguration of our p.s. eet is scheduled to be complete by late 2013. Upgrades include at-bed seats in United BusinessFirst and personal on-demand entertainment throughout. BOEING 767 FLEET UPGRADE: The 767 eet upgrade is nearing completion, with new features like at-bed seats in United BusinessFirst and personal on-demand entertainment throughout. United offers more 180-degree at-bed seats than any other carrier in the world. By the second quarter of 2013, all ights operated on internationally congured 747s, 757s, 767s, 777s and 787s will offer at-bed seats.
125
INFORMATION
Terminal Diagrams
TSA Pre
TM
IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL A (North Concourse) TERMINAL C United United Express TERMINAL B United Express
C18 C19 C17 C16 C15 C14 C20 C21 C22 C23
A A 0 D4 D4 D8 D6 D6 D9 D5 D7 D1 D1 C2 6 C2 4 5 D1 D2 C2 D3 D1 2 1
United Express Air Canada

A14 A12 A10 A15 A11 A9 A8 A7 B79A
Bus Station (A2)

A2 A1
B80 B81A B81 B83A B83
B79 B77A B77 B76A B76
B86A B87 B88
B86
B85A B85 B84A-S
North Concourse
USO
TERMINAL D United Lufthansa Singapore Airlines
Station TerminaLink
Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train
C27
Station Station International Arrivals
A30 A29 A27 A26 A25 A24 A20
A17 A18 A19
(Lower Level)
B67 B66 B65 B64 B62A B63A B63
(Lower Level)
C29
4 0 2 1 3 5 3
Under Construction
E24
0 E1 E1 E1 E1 E1 4 2 1
C4
C4
C3
TERMINAL A (South Concourse) US Airways
C3
C4
C3
C3
C34
C42 C41 C40
E2 E3 E4 E5 E9 E8 E7 E6
E15 E16
E23 E22 E21 E20 E19
South Concourse
C35 C36 C37 C39
TERMINAL E United United Express
E17 E18
EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL A United United Express Air Canada US Airways
TERMINAL C
B3
B2
B1
A3
28/28A 27/ 27A
TERMINAL C United United International Arrivals United Express

127 128 126 139 125 124 138 123 137 122 136 121 120 135 134 3 3 1 32 1 131 0 3 1 114 112 110 108 104 102
115 113 111 109 107 105 103 101 70 71
TERMINAL B United International Arrivals LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines SWISS TAP Portugal AirTrain
A2 25/25A
4A /2 24 23/23A 20/20A
/26 26
X 26 A/
98 99 97 96 94 95 92 91 80 90 72 75 73 74
81 83 85 87 88 82 84 86
(Upper Level)
A1
(Lower Level)
P4
Newark Liberty International Airport Station Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit
P1, P2, P3
126
ORD | CHICAGO OHARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Concourse F
F14 F12 F11 F10 F9 F7 F5 F4 F3 F2 F1
DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

8 0 2 4 6 4 6 6 8 0 2 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 B3 B3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 B1 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 B3 B3
Concourse A
Concourse E
E10
Concourse C
Air Canada Lufthansa
Concourse B
United United Express US Airways
C28-C39
Concourse G
Concourse H
Concourse K
TE R M I N A L 3
Concourse L
C2 C1 C4 C6 C3 C8 C5 E3 C10 C7 E2A C12 C9 E2 C16 C11 E1A B3 C18 B2 B4 C15 E1 C18A B1 C17 B5 C20 B6 C22 C19 B7 C24 C21 B8 C26 (Lower Level) C23 C28 C25 B9 C30 B10 C27 C32 TE R M I N A L 2 B11 C29C31 United Express B12 B13 Air Canada TE R M I N A L 1 B14 US Airways B15 United B16 United Express B17 ANA B18 B19 Lufthansa B20 Elevated Airport B22 B21 Transport System
A24-A39
TERMINAL WEST
B3 8 2 4 6 8 0 2 4 6 8 0 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B6
9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 B3 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5
Train
C40-C50
A40-A53
TERMINAL EAST Pedestrian Bridge

A58-A68
Concourse C
Concourse B Concourse M
TE R M I N A L 5 International
9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 B5 B6 B6 B6 B6 B6 B7 B7 B7 B77 9
0 2 4 6 8 0 2 4 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B9 B9
1 3 5 7 9 1 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B93 B95
United (international arrivals, except Canadian arrivals), ANA, Asiana Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines
B7
SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TE R M I N A L 2
IAD | WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Concourse C Concourse D
United United Express
Train C2-4 C6-8 C10-14 C18-26 C28-30 D2-8 D10-16 D18-26 D28-32
Under Construction
Gates 60-67
Gates 40-48
United United Express
78
TE R M I N A L 3 United United Express
79
77 76
68 71 72 73 73A 74 75
Shuttle
TE R M I N A L 1 United Express US Airways

Shuttle stop on lower level 32 36 33/37 35 34/38 (37 and 38 on lower level)
C1-3 A2 A4
C5-7 A6
C9-11 A14
C17-27 A22
D1-7 A25
D9-11 A32
D15-21 B38-B48
D23-29
80 82 84 81 83 85 89 87
86 88 90
(Lower Level)
24
A1
A3
A5
A15
A21
B35-B51 Shuttle Bus
B63-B79
Concourse A
United Express Copa Airlines
G92 G94 G96 G98 G91 G100 G102 G93 G95 G97 G99
Z Gates
US Airways
1-4
Concourse B
ANA Austrian Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines South African Airways Turkish Airlines
G101
I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L
Gates A1-A12
MAIN TERMINAL
United, Air Canada, Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS
127
Terminal Diagrams CONTD
TSA Pre
TM
LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TE R M I N A L 3 TE R M I N A L 2 Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways
12 8 4B
CLE | CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Concourse C C18 C19 C20 C21 C22 C10 C29 C24 C25 C26 D4 D6 D5 D12 D11 D14 D10 D7 D9 D8 C27
Underground Tunnel
C17 C16 C14 C11
United United Express Air Canada
C2 C5 C3
(Lower Level)
C9
C7
C8
C6
C4
(Lower Level)
TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L ANA, Asiana Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines
80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88
C23
D3 D2 Terminals M, B and A
61 63 65 67A 67B
71A 60 62 64 66 68A 71B 73 75A 75B 77 74 76 70B 72
D28 D25 D21 D17
Concourse D
United Express
TE R M I N A L 4
TE R M I N A L 5
69A 68B 69B TE R M I N A L 6 United Copa Airlines
US Airways and some United international ights arrive at Concourse A.
NRT | TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Fourth Floor 43 42 44 45 46 47 41 38 37 36 35 34 32 33 31
GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Third Floor
27 26 25
24
Satellite 2
23 22
21
South Wing TERMINAL 1 United Air Canada Air China ANA 51 Asiana Airlines 52 53 Austrian 54 EGYPTAIR Lufthansa 55 Scandinavian Airlines 56 Singapore Airlines SWISS 57 THAI Turkish Airlines 58
North Wing
Security Checkpoint
17
MAIN TERMINAL United
18
16 15
Caf
4 5 6 7 8
Food Court
9 10
11
13
15
17
19 21 20
11
12
14
Satellite 1
12
14
16
18
(Lower Level)
Air New Zealand ights arrive/depart at Terminal 2.
FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Sky Line Train
Gates E1-E26 Gates D1-D54
LHR | LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL 5 (post-security) TERMINAL 1 United (Chicago, Washington, D.C., San Francisco, Los Angeles) Aegean Airlines Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines Austrian Brussels Airlines Croatia Airlines LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa South African Airways SWISS TAM TAP Portugal US Airways Transfer Shuttle (pre-security)
Pier E
TE R M I N A L 2
Pier D
Gates C1-C9
B27 B47 B46 B26 B48 B28 B45 B23 B25 B42 B44 B24 B22 B43 Pier B B1-B41 B10-B20 Pedestrian Tunnel
Pier A
A/ Pi er Z
Gates Z11-25 A1-42
United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines
Pi er C
Pier A/Z
TE R M I N A L 1 Austrian Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines
A/Z Gates 50-69

TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 Air Canada Air China ANA Blue1 EGYPTAIR Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines THAI Turkish Airlines
South African Airways Spanair SWISS TAM TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines US Airways
TERMINAL 4 United (Newark, Houston)

Gates 1-25
Secureside and non-secureside buses serve all terminals
128
AMERICA NEEDS A NATIONAL AIRLINE POLICY
Its time for taxes on airfare to begin their descent.

U.S. airlines and their customers last year paid $19 billion in federal taxes. For example, you may have paid $300 for your domestic round-trip ight with $61 of the ticket price going to Washington, marking a federal tax rate higher than alcohol and tobacco, sin products that are taxed to discourage their use. Our economy depends on air travel. Commercial aviation drives $1 trillion in economic activity and 10 million jobs. We need a National Airline Policy that reduces taxes on airfare, to help keep travel and shipping affordable and enable airlines to expand travel and service options. A National Airline Policy is good for passengers, good for businesses and shippers, good for communities and good for our economy. To learn more and sign the petition, please scan the QR code or visit NationalAirlinePolicy.com
INFORMATION
Safety & Travel Assistance

SAFETY INFORMATION NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our ight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency they need help from you, the customer. You should be aware of the following:
MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether your next ight is on United or one of its Star Alliance partners around the world, you can use the terminal diagrams on pages 126-128 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.
EXIT
Location of the nearest emergency exit The correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes nes of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircrafts smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of electronic simulated smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes, cigars, etc.) on our ights.
Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen ow and how to use the mask
Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the seat pocket in front of you
NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage. Substantial nes can be imposed for violations.
Liquid and solid explosives
Flammable gases and compressed gas
Poisons
Radioactive and magnetic materials, corrosive and oxidizing agents
It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a ight unless they are served by our personnel. Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.
Travel assistance for delayed or canceled ights

At United, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a ight is the only option to ensure we maintain the highest safety standards. Flight interruption? We will conrm you on the next United ight with available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass, and will also help you stand by for an earlier United ight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and arent boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United ight to your destination until you are onboard. What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next ight if space is available, which means your bags may arrive before you. If so, United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a ight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or a similar issue within our control, we will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable eventssuch as weatherwe may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however, United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancellation you opt not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) to learn about your options. Help us help you stay informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging service that informs you if your ight is canceled or delayed, at united.com. At home? Go to united.com for information or to check in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important to us. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.
Staying Fit IN-FLIGHT FLEXIBILITY

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee. Repeat with other leg. Dorsiexion: With heel on oor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot. Plantar Flexion: Lift heel and keep toes pointed toward the oor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot. Eversion: With foot on oor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.
Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.
Inversion: With foot on oor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.
130
CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your comments at united.com/feedback.
ELECTRONIC DEVICES STAGE OF FLIGHT DEVICES PERMITTED
DEPARTURE: at gate, only when cabin door is open ARRIVAL: taxiing to gate area
Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or re when not stored properly. Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during ight. Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in ight when switched to airplane mode. A visible airplanedisabled mode should be identiable and shown to a crew member upon request. Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time. PLEASE NOTE Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. On aircraft equipped with in-ear headphones, customers with hearing-assistance devices may request a different headset from a ight attendant. Passengers are allowed to use non-battery-operated headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing. The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet, when other approved personal electronic devices are permitted. Use of the system is at your own risk. Do not remove batteries. We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.
Mobile phones and two-way pagers
PDAs and other electronic devices
MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing
IN FLIGHT: above 10,000 feet in altitude ON GROUND: when main cabin door is open
Noise-canceling headphones
GPS devices Calculators
Cameras
Personal computers*
Entertainment players and recorders (audio and/or video, such as iPods; e-readers; tape/ CD/MiniDisc/MP3/ DVD players; and camcorders)*
Electronic games*
Shavers
Aircraft power ports for laptops MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing
* must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times
NEVER PERMITTED TVs Radio receivers and/or transmitters (including AM/FM/SW, CB and scanners) Remote-control toys and personal air puriers
ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO The use of still and video cameras, lm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. Photography or audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography or audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any photography (video or still) or voice or audio recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specically permitted by United Airlines.
PLEASE NOTE United strictly prohibits the modication or use of any object or device to alter or limit the functionality, permanently or temporarily, of any aircraft structure, seat assembly, tray table, etc. If you see a customer using any such device or object, please inform United personnel immediately.
131
INFORMATION
MileagePlus
THE WORLDS MOST REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAM
Earn award miles every day

For the ninth year in a row, MileagePlus is proud to be named the worlds Best Frequent Flyer Program by Global Traveler magazine. Our award-winning program offers many ways to earn award miles from ights, hotel stays, car rentals, shopping, dining and more.
On the road Earn miles while you sleep. Stay at over 15,000 hotels worldwide from brands including Hilton HHonors, Marriott, IHG, Hyatt and more. Drive away with miles when you rent with our preferred car rental partners, Hertz and Avis. Earn at least 75 award miles per car rental day. When you shop, wine or dine Earn miles with MileagePlus Shopping when you shop at over 700 popular online retailers including Macys, Nordstrom, Home Depot and more. Send a special gift from FTD or join a Vinesse wine club and reward yourself with miles. Or, join MileagePlus Dining and earn up to ve miles per dollar spent at restaurants across the U.S. Endless possibilities to keep earning miles Earn miles when paying your electric bill with Energy Plus or stay in shape and earn miles with MileagePlus Fitness. Best of all, make all of your purchases with a MileagePlus credit card and earn miles for each dollar spent. To explore all the ways you can earn miles with MileagePlus, go to mileageplus.com/earnmiles.
MileagePlus Premier program benets overview MileagePlus features four status levelseach with its own thresholds for qualifying miles and segments. Go to mileageplus.com/premier for details. Below is a sample of MileagePlus Premier benets.
MileagePlus Premier member benets Premier bonus award miles Complimentary Premier Upgrades conrmation (as early as) Instant upgrades on select full-fare economy tickets Premier AccessSM priority airport services Unrestricted access to Standard Awards Complimentary access to preferred seating in economy class (Economy Plus) Lounge access when traveling internationally Compensation for Global Entry application fee Regional Premier Upgrades eligibility Global Premier Upgrades eligibility
Miles accrued, awards and benets issued are subject to change and to the rules of the United MileagePlus program. For complete details go to mileageplus.com.
Premier Silver 25% Day of departure
Premier Gold 50%
Premier Platinum 75%
Premier 1K 100%
48 hours
72 hours
96 hours
At check-in
At booking
At booking
At booking
Global Traveler, GT Tested Awards, 2012 Best Frequent Flyer Program, ninth consecutive year as voted by the readers of Global Traveler magazine. www.globaltravelerusa.com.
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Alliances & Partnerships

Star Alliance Member Airlines
GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the worlds largest global airline alliance, with more than 21,900 daily ights departing to 1,329 destinations. Customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-yer travel benets and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.
The Star Alliance network Established in 1997 as the rst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today, the Star Alliance network offers more than 21,900 daily ights to 1,329 destinations in 194 countries. Earn miles and status faster With the largest airline alliance, you can earn MileagePlus award miles almost anywhere in the world you y. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance ight and can be credited to your account. Plus, the ight miles will count toward Premier status. Earn recognition around the world The more that you y with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be. MileagePlus Premier status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benets worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benets you can receive. Award travel is now easier With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your MileagePlus award miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin for maximum comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).
Other Airline Partners

You can earn and redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specic information about each of our other airline partners. Aer Lingus Aeromar Amtrak Cape Air EVA Air Great Lakes Hawaiian Airlines Island Air Jet Airways Silver Airways
133
Its great to see how well received this movie was. And deservedly so. Its a phenomenal movie. HEMISPHERES: You received a career
tribute the other night at the Gotham Awards. Is it really tribute time? How old are you?
DAMON: Im 42. I completely agree. I didnt even know what to say to that. Im trying to get a li le $18 million movie out there, so Im like, Yeah, sure, Ill go to the Gotham Awards. Its still a li le weird. I thought, Does this mean youre telling me I cant work anymore? Are you pu ing me out to pasture? DAMON: It was December and I was nishing doing press on We Bought a Zoo. I had run late on another movie, and I had been away from my kids for a long, long time. I looked at the schedule a er I got home and realized that I would have to go into preproduction in a few weeks for Promised Land and leave my kids yet again. I couldnt do it. So I called John and I told him. He was pre y angry, and he had a right to be. He said, You couldnt have told me this a month ago? We cant even get our agent on the phone, and everyone is gone for the holidays. I just kept apologizing to him, even though I knew it was the right thing to do. I knew that directing the movie half-distracted would be a disaster. It wouldnt serve the picture, so I walked away from it. But I said, I still want to do the movie, I love our movie, and you have to trust me. The script is good; were going to get a director. Luckily, the next morning I emailed Gus Van Sant, one of my all-time favorites, and he read it right away and said yes right away. It was a 12-hour hiccup, but a tough one. HEMISPHERES: Gus directed Good Will Hunting, which turned out pretty well. And meanwhile your co-star in that movie, Ben Affleck, has made a little lm ... DAMON: Yeah, Argo is just amazing. Im so happy for him. And Im not surprisedI know be er than anybody how talented he is. Ive known him for 30 years, and wrote a movie with him, and spent a lot of time talking to him. HEMISPHERES: Youre not ready for the
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 71
O entimes in West Africa or subSaharan Africa, which is the epicenter of the bad-water epidemic, the municipalities are piping water right under the street but li le of it gets to peoples homes because they dont have taps. Garys idea is that you give the people a water credit in the form of a $100 loan, and they connect to the pipes and have a tap put in their home. And then hopefully theyll come back for another loan and put a latrine in their house. HEMISPHERES: Do you think of water as
pasture. We need you to save the world by making another Bourne movie.
DAMON: Im tied to the director, Paul Greengrass, and if Paul wants to do it, then I will too. HEMISPHERES: The poster for Elysium has you holding a gun so big it looks like a cannon. Did you have to work out to be able to hold that thing up? DAMON: Its not that bad. Theyre special-eects guns, so theyre not super-heavy. But my character had a shaved head and he was really built, with ta oos all over him, so going to the gym three or four hours a day was a big thing in ge ing ready for that movie. HEMISPHERES: What do your kids think of
a human right?
DAMON: Yes. Its a necessity to survive, yet we seem to take it for granted in the West because it costs so li le. But when you go to a community where they dont have ityeah, its obviously a human right. HEMISPHERES: Promised Land is not a
the haircut?
DAMON: My 2-year-old loves smacking my head when its bald. It had grown back a bit, but then I had two days of reshoots and they said, You can wear a bald cap, but youre going to be in the makeup chair for an extra three hours in the morning. So I said no way, and cut it all o again. Im just happy it seems to be growing back.
DAVID CARR, who covers media and culture for The New York Times, is intrigued by the idea of an irate John Krasinski.
long walk from the subject of water, given that theres a fair amount of controversy over the environmental impacts of fracking. Where did the movie come from?
DAMON: It was John Krasinskis idea. He went to the writer Dave Eggers, who he knew from Away We Go, and Dave, who Im a huge admirer of, came up with the story. And then Dave got busy with his book, A Hologram for the King, and John and I decided to write the movie ourselves. I was also going to direct, but HEMISPHERES: But?
134
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FEATURES || THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 75
people to work with the government, says Roberto Contreras Rodrguez, secretary of the ejido of El Rosario, home to the areas largest and most visited bu ery sanctuary. They were skeptical. But now they see that the tourists are coming. The primary source of funding for many of these initiatives is the Monarch Bu ery Conservation Fund, established in 2000 with a $5 million endowment from the David and Lucile Packard Foundation, plus $1.5 million from government sources. From 2000 through 2012, about $2.6 million in interest has been distributed to communities and private landowners around the monarch sanctuaries. Today, more than 18,000 people receive money directly or indirectly from the fund, the WWF says. Given that there are 200,000 or so people living in the area around the butterfly reserves, that may not seem like a gamechanging figure, but theres more to the effort than improving peoples immediate situations. In large part, the idea is to establish new attitudes and patterns of behavior among locals, and in this regard the project is showing great promise. For example, Javier Martnez Coln, who once helped his father cut down trees on the site of the Sierra Chincua reserve, now works beside his own sons to preserve the forest. Not that the monarch is in the clear yeta combination of climate change, pesticides and the destruction of its milkweed food source by North American farmers is making the species annual journey south extremely dicult. In the winter of 2005, enough monarchs arrived in Mexico to ll about 14 acres of forest; just
IF F WE STOPP STOPPED PPED UR PATROLS OUR PATROLS, E ILLEGA THE ILLEGAL GG LOGGERS WOULD START AGAIN, SAYS ONE LOCAL. BUT THEY KNOW WE ARE WELL ORGANIZED.
six years later, the population needed only about half as much space. The fact remains, though, that if the butterflies make it back to Mexico, they face much better prospects for survival. The WWF reports that illegal logging in and around the Monarch Bu ery Biosphere Reserve is at its lowest point since the reserve was established in 2000so low, in fact, as to be barely detectable. A er 12 years, says Omar Vidal, director of WWFMexico, we now have a story of success.
VERY MARCH, a er ve months
hibernating and then mating in Mexicos sanctuaries, the monarchs head north. They will y as far as 80 miles a day during their journey, catching thermals and being blown by the wind, ending upa few generations later3,000 or so miles away. The increasingly pressing
quest question facing the people back in Mexico is: What Wha then? The monarch is very important to the economy here, says the WWFs Rendn, but we need to establish programs and a n strategy for year-round tourism and other development. kinds of regional reg You get the sense, though, that the area may have turned turn a corner, that people here determined to see this through, on are determin terms and in their own ways. their own ter Cayetano brothers, for their part, The Cayetan would like to t move beyond growing Theyre seeking funding to trees: They start a sawmill sawm to produce packagpineapples, ing for the avocados, av other plants that ourowers and othe ish all around them. the The population is growing up here, says Miguel. If we dont give our children more opportunities, they will return to abusing the forest. This is a real concern. People still speak anxiously about the gangs that ran the illegal logging operations, and fear that theyll come back if gains arent made fast enough. But, again, there seems to be a sense of determination among locals to keep pressing forward. If we stopped our patrols, the illegal loggers would immediately start again, says Marciano Solis Sacarias, who works at the largest of the WWF-supported tree nurseries in San Juan Xoconusco, an indigenous community in the state of Mexico. But now they know we are well organized. Sitting on stumps and planks, Solis and his co-workers are eating a lunch of beef grilled on a metal plate over a wood re, accompanied by fresh avocados, peppers and a pile of tortillas. On about four acres of sloping eld below stand nearly 800,000 young trees. Up to 50 locals, including women and children, work at this vivero during prime planting season. For them, the demise of the monarch would be unthinkable. If it were not for the bu eries, we would not get support for this project, says Solis brother, Fernando, hands in the pockets of his work-worn jeans. We would have to migrate out of here.
PHIL PRIMACK is a writer and editor living outside Boston, a city famed for its annual (and somewhat less awe-inspiring) migration of college students.
136
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Chefs Corner
Grilled Salmon with Endive and Berry Salad
Yields 4 servings
Grilled Salmon Salmon, four 5-7 ounce fillets 2 tablespoons olive oil 6 basil leaves, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon each sea salt and pepper
Directions
2 3 4 5 6
Executive Chef Robin Carr oversees every aspect of our busy domestic and international catering facilities in Newark, New Jersey. As a Culinary Institute of America (CIA) graduate, she professionally handles each menu development process. Whether it is a Japanese menu to Tokyo or using popular trends for menu enhancements, Chef Robin is always ready to take on the next challenge g in creating g cuisine for the vast markets rkets served by United.
Directions
1 2 3 4 5
Pre-heat grill pan over medium-high heat Season salmon with olive oil, salt and pepper Grill on both sides until done, approximately 4-5 minutes per side Garnish with fresh basil Top with endive and berry salad
Chefs Tip
Any combination of berries may be used in this salad. If berries are not in season, use thinly sliced black plums or nectarines. Fresh fruit in green salads provide sweetness that balances the acidity of the dressing.
Endive and Berry Salad cup raspberries cup blueberries cup of red onion, thinly sliced 3 heads of Belgium endive cup extra virgin olive oil cup white balsamic vinegar Salt and cracked black pepper Roasted sliced almonds or pine nuts, optional
Mix together the olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and season with salt and pepper to taste Cut bottoms off of the endive and separate the leaves Julienne the endive leaves during the last moments of preparation to avoid wilting Combine the berries, onion and endive in a bowl Drizzle the dressing over the salad while gently tossing Portion salad on plates and garnish with almonds or pine nuts, if desired for extra crunch Serve salad with grilled salmon
C H EER S !
Courtesy of Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine
J. & H. Selbach Riesling Kabinett 2011 Germany|Great German Riesling is not sweet but very fruity. Seemingly sweet when first tasted, within a few minutes, Selbach seems dry and lemony. This dry wine would be an excellent pairing against the sweetness of the salmon and fresh berries.
la carte
ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS
PRINGLES ORIGINAL POTATO CRISPS $2.99 M&MS ALMOND CHOCOLATE CANDIES $2.69 STARBURST ORIGINAL FRUIT CHEWS $2.99 7 DAYS SOFT MINI CROISSANT $2.99 CHEX MIX $2.99
breakfast
ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS
YOGURT PARFAIT $5.49 Low-fat vanilla yogurt with berries and granola. CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49 Brie, Gouda, Muenster, cheddar cheese, and dried fruit.
Available on select flights only:
HAM & CHEDDAR BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.79 Ham and cheddar cheese on a ciabatta square served with Dijon mustard-mayo sauce (served cold). or HOT BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.99 Jimmy Dean sausage, egg and cheese sandwich served with fresh fruit and condiments.
AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICA AND LATIN AMERICA FLIGHTS. FRESH PRODUCTS OUT OF LATIN AMERICA MAY VARY DUE TO PRODUCT AVAILABILITY. ALL FLIGHTS ACCEPT CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS ONLY.
lunch & dinner
ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS
ASIAN NOODLE SALAD $5.49 A chilled noodle salad topped with stir-fried vegetables, sweet chile chicken breast and green onions. GRILLED CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $9.49 Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, Parmesan cheese, croutons and Caesar dressing. CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49 Brie, Gouda, Muenster, cheddar cheese, and dried fruit. THAI CHICKEN WR AP $8.59 Chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, and red and yellow bell peppers wrapped in a tortilla with Thai aoli sauce.
Available on select flights only:
HAM AND SWISS CHEESE SANDWICH $7.99 Ham, Swiss cheese and lettuce on a pretzel roll served with mayonnaise and mustard (served cold). or ANGUS CHEESEBURGER $7.99 Premium Angus beef with melted cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion, served with traditional condiments.
beverages
NON -A L C OHOL IC Complimentary and available on most flights.
J J
J
J
J
Coca-Cola, Coke Zero, Diet Coke Sprite, Sprite Zero Minute Maid: Apple Juice, Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice Motts Tomato Juice Dasani Bottled Water
J
J
J
J
J
Mr. & Mrs. Ts Bloody Mary Mix Seagrams: Ginger Ale, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water Freshbrew Kova Coffee Decaffeinated Coffee Hot Tea
AVAIL ABLE ON SELECT ROUTES
Cappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas A L C OHOL IC Alcoholic beverages are available on most flights. Complimentary in premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin. Beer and wine are complimentary in economy on trans-Pacific international flights and on flights within Asia and Micronesia. Sake is also complimentary on trans-Pacific international flights to/from Japan. SP E C I A LT Y C O C K TA I L
MOST NORTH AMERICA FLIGHTS E XCEPT HAWAII
snackboxes
ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS
Salvadors Margarita$7
MOST U. S. MAINL AND FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII
Trader Vics Mai Tai$9 BEER $6 Budweiser , Miller Lite, Heineken WINES $7 House Red and White
INTERNATIONAL & MOST FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII
TAPAS $8.59
J J
J
J
J
J
J
J
J
Oloves Marinated Olives Roasted Red Pepper Bruschetta Spread Wild Garden Hummus Rondel Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread Stacys Pita Chips Cream Crackers Partners Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers Emerald Natural Almonds Chocolate Covered Fruit
Sparkling Wine
Special wine selections are available for premium cabin customers. Please ask your flight attendant about todays selections.
CLASSIC $7.49
J J
J
J
J
J
J
Motts Applesauce Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Pepperoni Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread Crackers Candy Oreo Cookies
SPIRITS $7 ABSOLUT Vodka Bacardi Superior Light Rum Bombay Sapphire Dry Gin Canadian Club Whisky
J J J J
J
J
J
Dewars White Label Blended Scotch Whisky Jack Daniels Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
LIQUEURS & COGNAC $7 Baileys Irish Cream Courvoisier VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac
J J
SAVORY $7.49
J J
MOST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

J
J
J
J
J
J
Tortilla Chips Salsa Vanilla Raspberry Fig Bar Almonds Nutella Graham Crackers Dried Fruit
J
Crown Royal Canadian Whisky DISARONNO Amaretto*
J
J
J
The Glenlivet Single Malt Scotch Whisky Grand Marnier Kahlua*
* Also domestic premium cabins Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on eligible flights.
A portion of the proceeds from the Eat for Good program will go to support organizations that provide opportunities and education for at-risk and underserved youth. For information visit united.com/eatforgood. Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available.
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Daniela Cateriano MEXICO Alejandro Salas BRAZIL Olivier Capoulade

Josette Berksteiner, Stacy Willis

MARCH 2013 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

ADDISON DOTY (TREASURE CHEST); MNICA ECHEVERRIA (PRIMACK)

After the recap. Before the nightcap.

Investing in Our People

MARCH 2013 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

A destination for every day of the year. And then some.

MARCH 2013 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013

Alexander Graham Bell makes worlds first phone call

Number of U.S. pay phones reaches 1 million

Motorola exec Martin Cooper makes worlds first cellphone call

Number of U.S. cellphone users is about 92,000

Number of U.S. pay phones drops to about 425,000

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 ILLUSTRATION BY SECTION DESIGN

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM MARCH 2013 ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI

NEW YORK CITY

MARCH 2013 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

ESTIMATED NUMBER OF METEORITES THAT FALL TO EARTH ANNUALLY

AMOUNT PAID AT AUCTION FOR A PIECE OF THE VENEZUELAN COWKILLING METEORITE

ESTIMATED NUMBER OF REINDEER FATALLY INJURED IN THE TUNGUSKA EVENT

MARCH 2013 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

Your dream vacation designed around you

Volvo OVERSEAS DELIVERY

Pack for a Weekend Getaway

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CHASING THE BLUES

Taking a devilish Lexus GS 350 into the heart of the Delta

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