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High Pressure Metal-Slug Cannon

by QuackMasterDan on October 29, 2010 Table of Contents High Pressure Metal-Slug Cannon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: High Pressure Metal-Slug Cannon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 1: Slug Cannon Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 2: Measure Once, Cut Four Times - Pipe Design Lengths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Step 3: Sand, Flux, Torch, Braze. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 4 6 8

Step 4: Air-Inlet Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Step 5: Assembling the Rig - Valve, Air-Chambers, and Tee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Step 6: Ball Valve and Barrel Mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Step 7: Optional - Taping and Secondary Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Step 8: Ammunition Variants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Step 9: Completion - Enjoy! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

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Author:QuackMasterDan
I have a passion for tweaking things. Whether it be modding video game consoles, creating custom laser displays, or any creations with lights I love solving problems through unorthodox means. In Spring 2010 I have finally completed by B.A. in History, and will continue my plans to become a high-school history teacher (Rather amiss compared to all the science-based hobbies I have, but I become frustrated at tedious advanced mathematics within scientific careers). I am a Mennonite Brethren Christian and volunteer counselor for a Junior High youth group. I like to go wherever life ends up, often on some unexpected adventure with new ideas and the willingness to have fun. Since things never go as planned in life, it helps to be adaptable. Life quote: "Nothing in excess." - Inscription from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi. Complementary life quote: "Brute force and ignorance! With enough force, you can make a square peg fit into a round hole."

Intro: High Pressure Metal-Slug Cannon

Feel like breaking something? A fence, a TV, a car-door, or simply disintegrating a potato flying 200 feet per second? All this is possible with your own high-pressure copper slug cannon. There are plenty of PVC and ABS potato-gun guides on the internet, this guide aims to create something a little different. While it can fire potatoes (though they shatter), or anything that fits into a 1" barrel, it allows the use of extremely high air pressures to fire wooden, plastic, or metal slugs. Creating a metal cannon is more safe, far more capable, and as a consequence, more expensive. While PVC can explode and shatter under high pressure (120< PSI), and ABS can split under medium pressure (70< PSI), copper can take far higher loads before failing. Rather than use combustion for power, this design uses compressed air. If the pressure goes too high, a copper weld will crack to release the air, rather than send out fragments like PVC. Copper also does not fatigue like PVC or ABS. The difference in strength between 110 and 150 PSI is immense, and 150->180 is even more extreme. Though like anything, the assembly has its limits, keep it under 350 PSI. The cost ended up being around $100, and while the project is not very difficult, it is time consuming. If you feel the push to create an assembly of potential destruction, I encourage you to learn from, modify, and get to work on making your own copper slug cannon.

***Liabilities*** Slug Cannons and Potato Guns while very fun, have the potential to kill. We are dealing with a high-pressure design that is effectively a weapon. Use common sense, don't point it at people, cars, someone else's property, or anything else that can get you in trouble. With a wooden or metal slug, you really can punch through a car door, or break a person. By reading this you agree not to sue me for anything ever, including but not limited to any grief you cause yourself and others from the information in this guide. That said, have fun! ***End Legalese*** ***Laws in California*** These are the laws for this assembly in California, it's complicated, but legal. Potato/Slug-Guns/Zip-Guns that use combustion, such as hairspray, propane, or butane, are illegal, since they are a non-licensed manufactured firearm. Using compressed air avoids this rule, and there is a second condition this assembly does not meet: fixed ammunition. A fixed round is a round that contains propellant, casing, and bullet all in one container. For this, there is no case, and the propellant is contained in the rear chamber, not on the slug, thus, it isn't a fixed round. Under ATF (Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms - Federal Law) it is legal. Under California state law, there is a law which could be charged against you, called destructive device law. Any round over 50 caliber (which slugs definitely are) is a destructive device, if it is used with the intent to destroy something that would be an illegal act, like targeting a person or a car. Shooting a wooden target or dirt is not malicious intent. There is another technicality, smooth-bore (non-rifled) weapons that are muzzle loading (which this slug cannon is), are not destructive devices. This effectively puts it in the same legal category as an air-soft gun, despite them being very different (though air-soft guns are not muzzle loading). Now realistically, when this fires at 150 PSI, the round whistles, a ton of water vapor pours out the barrel, and an echo is heard a half-mile away, which many people would report as a rifle or shotgun being fired. Most police will be very cautious, but likely tell you to stop and go do something else since they received complaints. Some police may confiscate the assembly or even arrest you, whereupon you go to holding, and will be let out after an hour or two and get your cannon back. In court, you will definitely be o.k. However, this is a huge hassle, and no one wants to go to a holding cell. Within a city, you will likely violate noise limitations or public-disturbance laws, which you can be fined for legitimately. ATF laws [Title 18 United States Code (U.S.C.), Chapter 44, S 921(a)(3)] and [26 U.S.C., Chapter 53, S 5845] should be printed out. They define the classification of a firearm. California state laws [CPC 12090-12094]; [CPC 12085-12086]; [CPC 12020] discuss the rules and classifications that relate to this assembly. Simply put, it's legal in California, many cops think all potato guns are illegal since most are combustion, go fire it out in a rural area to avoid noise laws and attention.

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Print them all out, and keep them with you in case cops show up, and be friendly. CPC 12020 is the one that most police will be suspecting against you, and strongly emphasize that the assembly is compressed air. Whew*, lots of information. ***End California Law*** Now let's get to building!

Image Notes 1. Steel slugs fit beautifully. 2. 1/2" Steel Coupling Slugs. 3. 2" and 3" Poplar Slugs. 4. 2" and 3" Oak Slugs.

Image Notes 1. Oak 2" and 3" Slugs. 2. Poplar 2" and 3" Slugs. 3. C Batteries 4. Full Glue, Steel-Slugs. 5. 1/3 Glue, Steel Slugs. 6. 7" Oak and Poplar Rods.

Image Notes 1. The power exits from here.

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Image Notes 1. Full Metal Cannon (+Athletic Tape)

Step 1: Slug Cannon Parts

The total cost for everything in this project ended up being ~$100. The parts list is pretty simple, almost everything was purchased at The Home Depot. Raw Copper (3x) 90 Degree 1" Street-Elbows. ($5.70/ea) ($17/total) [Street elbows are female on one end and male on the other] (2x) 1" Regular Caps ($2.00/ea) ($4/total) (1x) 1" Regular Tee. ($8.60/ea) (1x) 1" Ball-Valve, Dual Female-Threaded. ($14.00) (2x) 1" Regular Male Threaded Adapters. ($6.00/ea) ($12.00/total) (1x) 1"x10' Red Copper Plumbing Pipe ($28) **Copper Pipe Grades** There are three grades that vary in thickness, from thinnest to thickest, they are: M, L, and K. L is good enough. Never go above 350PSI as [poorly done] solder joints can break, though really, 150PSI is very strong. Tools Oxyacetylene or Propane Torch (Propane Combo Pack for $18.00) - Oxy for brazing (above 800 F), propane for soldering (below 800 F). Heats up two metals to the point that solder can bond to them. I got a pack that contained the torch, solder, flux, and brush. You will also need a lighter, I use a modified BIC for an extra-high flame. Hacksaw - It is capable of cutting many things, for this guide, copper pipe. Measuring Instrument (Level/Tape Ruler) - This instrument can measure things. Plumbing Solder - Effectively bonds two pieces of copper together airtight. Plumbing Flux & Brush - Required for effective joining of copper pipes, when heated, it evaporates the metal clean. Power Drill and bits up to 1/4 - Only for drilling a single hole into a cap. Protection - Solder boils in this project, a splotch on your eye is something that should be avoided. I own some heavy-duty, chemical resistant gloves, which helped me turn the pipes while they were still hot (they don't compete with leather welder's gloves though). I also have chemical resistant eye-goggles, sunglasses are better than nothing. Wear a long-sleeve shirt and semi-thick pants (khakis or jeans). Pipe Wrench or Crescent Wrench - For the final tightening of the assembly. Misc Parts Bicycle Pump ($20-40) - Most bicycle pumps go to a max of 160 PSI, which is extremely powerful in this assembly. Get one made of metal, not plastic, as it could break if you really push it. There are bicycle pumps that max out at 240 PSI, but they can cost up to $100. Get whatever grade you want. Also acceptable is a powered aircompressor, but those aren't portable. Schrader or Presta Bicycle-Valve Inlet (~$3) - I recommend getting a bare Schrader valve (all metal). Bicycle shops tend to sell more Presta valves, and Auto-stores only sell Schrader valves, along with hardware stores that sell air-compressors. You can also take one from a flat bicycle or car tire, but we need at least a full inch of threads (remove the rubber to find out if it is threaded or smooth). Allows a bicycle pump or air-compressor to charge the gun. This was obtained by going to my local neighborhood bicycle shop (Rubber Soul Bicycles). You will also need two nuts that thread onto the valve, to attach to the cap. Epoxy (Rubber and Metal compatible) ($4) - Used to connect seal the bicycle inlet to its cap. TFE Paste Tube ($2) - Makes the threads on the ball-valve air-tight.

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Image Notes 1. 1" Street-Elbow Joint 2 of 3. 90 Rimmed to flat. 2. 1" Street-Elbow joint 1 of 3. 90 Rimmed to flat. 3. 1" Street-Elbow Joint 3 of 3. 90 Rimmed to flat. 4. 1" Tee. 5. 1" Cap 6. 1" Cap 7. 1" Female-threaded Ball Valve. 8. 1" Male slip->threaded adapter. 9. 1" Male slip->threaded adapter. 10. 1" x 10' Red Copper Pipe.

Image Notes 1. Plumbing Solder. 2. Flux Applicator Brush. 3. Plumbing Flux. 4. Schrader Valve cut from a flat bicycle tire. 5. Aluminum 12" hacksaw. 6. Butane Torch.

Image Notes 1. Pure rotational force on threads won't be airtight, this paste is very dense and prevents air and liquids from flowing through. It also lubricates as it seals.

Image Notes 1. Bonds to Rubber and Metal.

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Image Notes 1. Safety first! Kinda....

Step 2: Measure Once, Cut Four Times - Pipe Design Lengths

Sectioned Pieces The ten foot pipe will be cut into four sections. One 32 inches long, two 20 inches, and a fourth 12 inches. Mark each distance with a sharpie around the pipe, and cut away with a hacksaw, or pipe cutters if you have them available. It's easier to cut along the outside metal, rather than perpendicular within a cut. Connected Adapters It's difficult to explain the structure of how the pipes are laid out, please just view the diagrams I have created in the pictures below. The Pipes are Termed: 32" Barrel 20" (2x) Air Chambers 12" Barrel Connecting Chamber

Image Notes 1. 32" Barrel.

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2. 20" (2x) Air Chambers. 3. 12" Barrel Connecting Chamber.

Image Notes 1. One 32" barrel.

Image Notes 1. These three Street-Elbows will be connecting to the single, Standard Tee.

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Image Notes 1. All three Street-Elbows are inserted into the Standard Tee.

Image Notes 1. Pretty simple, adapters screw into the ball-valve.

Image Notes 1. Basic layout. I later reversed the direction of the lower pipes to make a better hip-mount.

Step 3: Sand, Flux, Torch, Braze.

How to Solder Copper Piping For a stronger bond, and to remove any large surface impurities (dust, lime) you can scrape the pipe with sandpaper, or use a pipe brush. Copper usually is not welded like steel or aluminum, it is rather joined with solder, or brazed with oxyacetylene. For this guide, I will only be using propane soldering. You brush on flux to the connecting surfaces, and put them together with a slight twist (1/4 turn). Lay the pipes level, that is, perpendicular to the ground, we want gravity to work for us. Heat is applied to both surfaces via a blowtorch which will cause the flux to evaporate and clean the metals. You want the metals to be hot enough that solder will readily melt upon touching the metal. If smoke starts pouring out, the flux is burning, and you're using too much heat. Apply solder to the top of the joint, and the solder will wrap itself around and be drawn into the joint. If the solder itself melts and just sits on top of the copper, the pipe is not hot enough. Heat the pipe until the solder will be attracted to and bond to it. You can rotate the pipes until the entire circumference has been joined, use either a thick rag or heavy-duty glove when gripping it. Once your solder joint is complete, set it on the ground and let it sit for 10-20 minutes, don't quench it by dipping it in oil or water as that will weaken the joint. Pieces to Join 32" Barrel - Solder on a single 1" Male threaded adapter to one end of the barrel. 20" Air Chambers - Solder on one 90 degree Street-Elbow joint to each pipe. For one of the chambers, solder a cap onto its base, we will tend to the second cap in the next step as it is our air-inlet. 12" Barrel Connecting Chamber - On one end solder a 1" Male threaded adapter, on the other, a 90 degree Street-Elbow joint.

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Image Notes 1. Flux is extremely important, do not forget to apply it to both parts!

Image Notes 1. A good amount of flux, liberally spread.

Image Notes 1. Parts connected and turned 1/4.

Image Notes 1. Let the weld be vertical, so that molten metal will drip around, rather than up or down the bar.

Image Notes 1. Apply heat until you seed a rapid evaporation wave, then solder can be applied. Rainbow burning means overheating (oxidizing).

Image Notes 1. Once the metals are warm enough, you can apply solder and it will automatically wrap around and be sucked into the joint..

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Step 4: Air-Inlet Valve

This step is the hardest part of the install, attaching our valve inlet (Schrader or Presta work fine) to a cap. There are two copper caps which will attach to the rear arms of the assembly, one of which is going to become the point where we can inject air via bicycle-pump or air-compressor Drilling with Power Start with a small 1/16" drill bit, drill a small hole in the center of your cap. Slowly progress up in bit sizes to 1/4". At 1/4", the Presta valve will not fit, so grind away with the side of the drill bit until it does. We want as tight an opening as possible, ideally, it should require some real monkey-fisting to push the valve through. Valve Attachment Method 1: Threaded Valve and Nut (Primary) The best method to make a seal, which I learned after making my cannon (which was done with a bicycle-tire valve covered in rubber, under method 2, so just focus on the main diagram image), that I now recommend, is to use two nuts with two lock-washers, and sandwich the cap between them. As far as the nut, go to Home Depot and try different nut sizes until you find one that matches your valve. Thread one nut and lock washer up the stem, push the valve through the cap, now add the second lock washer and nut. Make them as tight as possible with pliers/crescent wrenches. Then follow method two, which is simply to cover everything with epoxy, to make it airtight. Valve Attachment Method 2: Epoxying (Secondary) Really take your time with this step, especially the epoxy on the inside of the cap to ensure a full seal. Surround the base of each nut with epoxy, one side at a time to let them cure without mess. It needs to be very secure, since this rig will be handling 100-350PSI. Use 5 minute bonding, 1 hour handling (24 hr curing), 1500PSI epoxy. I applied an excessive amount of epoxy to the inside of the cap and on top of the rubber ring going inside the cap. Insert, and pull on the valve stem for 90 seconds. Once one side is relatively solid, cover the other. Let the cap cure for at least one hour before pressurizing it (or the epoxy will tear/split little holes).

Image Notes 1. Cut from a bicycle tire, the circle at the base will help make a seal.

Image Notes 1. A 1/16" drill bit. I will increase up to 1/4" and then grind away.

Image Notes 1. The hole from the 1/16" bit.

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Image Notes 1. The valve fits through with some force.

Image Notes 1. All around the base of the stem.

Image Notes 1. Bonds to Rubber and Metal.

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Step 5: Assembling the Rig - Valve, Air-Chambers, and Tee

Connecting the Valve This part requires a bit more precision, soldering our inlet-cap to its 20" chamber. The epoxy is not designed to take temperatures over 200 F, however we are heating the copper to around 600 F. Apply most of your heat at the juncture where the cap meets the pipe. Just try to minimize excess heating near the cap-end. Let the pipe cool for 10-15 minutes before commencing the next test. Simple Pressure Test Connect a bicycle pump to the valve inlet, place your hand over the 90 degree elbow, and pump a few times to make sure air comes out. This is to make sure the valveinlet has not been sealed by melting epoxy or rubber. When actually pumping up the chamber to 160 PSI for loading a round, it takes about 20-25 seconds of pumping. Soldering the 20" Air Chambers into Tee Pretty simple, the elbows of the two 20" chambers go into the sides of the tee. Ensure that they are level with one another. On both elbows and tees, there are lines denoting their edges. Soldering the 12" Barrel Connecting Chamber There are two options for which direction the barrel faces, I prefer to make the legs face away from the barrel, so I can either slot my arm into the split, or rest the gun on my hip. Whatever you choose, just be sure to pick a direction you will be happy with. Solder the elbow of your 12" barrel connecting chamber into the top of the tee, try to make it level, as with its lateral force it likes to sag.

Image Notes 1. Just testing to make sure the valve is clear.

Image Notes 1. Be careful to limit the head exposure of the Epoxy, it will undoubtedly be burned a bit though.

Image Notes 1. Before soldering the pipes to the tee, I lined them up. There are lines on the side noting their edges.

Image Notes 1. I burned my joints because I am a beginner at propane soldering.

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Step 6: Ball Valve and Barrel Mounting

We are getting very close to being done! Ball-Valve Orientation The valve can go on in two directions, while the firing lever only turns one way. Assemble your cannon (not tight, just for holding) to decide which direction you would like to hit the lever when firing. If you look down the barrel and see a reflection, the valve is closed. If you look down the barrel and see pure black, the valve is open. Just imagine how you would prefer to hold it before we fully mount the barrel. For my cannon, the lever is level with the air chambers, "under" the gun, facing then body when firing. It can be fired by either the left or right hand; a push fires the valve. Sealant Overview It is time to connect the barrel and 1" Female threaded Ball-valve to our air-chamber assembly. However, simply using a great deal of force to tighten on the valve is not air-tight. If we were to pressure it up now, we could still hit 90PSI, but the pressure would rapidly leak out. We must use TFE paste to seal it. TFE Paste is a stiff, slowly-hardening, lubricated putty. It will never permanently bond, so you can always remove the valve if necessary. You smear it into the threads with your thumb, and then screw on the valve. Paste need only be applied to the air-chamber end of the valve, as the barrel will not leak much pressure in the short time it fires out the projectile. Final Assembly The valve needs to be tight enough that when you hit the firing lever it doesn't loosen, but not so tight that the lever is not in the comfortable firing position you chose earlier. The barrel can only tighten so much before it stops right? The sealant provides a solution for this, since it has lubricants inside of it, with the use of a pipe-wrench we can have some wiggle-room in turning the ball-valve. With a pipe wrench, the lever can still be in a position we want, but not at absolute maximum tightness, it's o.k. to be semi-loose, but the valve should be tight enough that you can't turn it easily by hand.

Image Notes 1. Pure rotational force on threads won't be airtight, this paste is very dense and prevents air and liquids from flowing through. It also lubricates as it seals.

Image Notes 1. Paste only goes on these threads.

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Image Notes 1. Smear the paste into all of the threads with your thumb.

Image Notes 1. That is one beastly looking gun, note that this is not the final assembly. My lever is normally "under" the gun.

Step 7: Optional - Taping and Secondary Barrel

Athletic Tape If you would like your cannon to look more aesthetically pleasing, I suggest wrapping the majority of the rig in black athletic tape, spare the last eight inches of the barrel though, since potato guts will be cut upon it. Don't use electrical or duct tape, as they eventually become a gooey mess after a few months. Black athletic tape is advised, since it can get dirty and still look nice, as well as be drawn on with silver-sharpies. Normally for hockey-sticks, I got two rolls for $7 from The Sports Authority. Why not give your rig a name, menacing or beautiful for it's destructive power? Mine has been graced with the title: The Monglerator. Secondary Barrel Since the barrel connects to the ball-valve via threads, we can connect any size barrel we choose as long as it has a 1" male-threaded adapter at one end. I purchased a 2 1/2" x 2' copper tube, as well as a 1"->2 1/2" reducer coupling. Together they cost $50, which is fairly high. Pretty much any new pipe, aluminum, copper, or steel, is going to be expensive at 2 1/2" (This is why scrapyards are great!). Still, if you're want to fire larger potatoes or tennis-balls at high PSI, read below. Adapter->Pipe->Reducer->Barrel Both the adapter and reducer coupling are the same size, since they are both meant to go over a piece of 1" copper pipe. We have to cut a short, 3 1/2" long piece of 1" diameter pipe to connect the two of them. So solder on the adapter and reducer to the same piece of pipe, and after they cool, solder on your 2 1/2" barrel to the reducer coupling. Then screw in your new, alternate barrel to the ball-valve, and give it a test. Higher PSI is recommended, since you are firing a larger projectile, I suggest 160350PSI.

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Image Notes 1. Try to keep the tape flat, athletic tape has some stretch to it, so you can always angle and keep it flat at the same time.

Image Notes 1. Full Metal Cannon (+Athletic Tape)

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Step 8: Ammunition Variants

You have a cannon, and with 150-300PSI of power behind it, the ability to obliterate many things. Your choice of ammunition is limited only by your imagination or what you can cram into a 1" barrel, here are my favorites. The Common Rounds Small Red Potatoes - for a 1" barrel. Large White Potatoes - for a 2 1/2" barrel. Baseballs/Tennis-balls/Squish-balls - For a 2 1/2" barrel. Wooden Slugs These are where things get fun, since you can use any material you please, just cut it yourself. Copper pipes are rated by the inner-diameter, that is, a 1" copper pipe is 1" diameter on the inside, and thicker on the outside. With a slug, you simply purchase a rod of any diameter material that matches your barrel, and cut it yourself. Two to three inches long is the ideal slug length. Home Depot has a variety of wooden rods you can purchase, of varying densities of wood. I suggest a hardwood like oak or maple, light woods such as pine tend to shatter or fracture on impact. Dowel rods are very cheap, I got a 36" Oak Dowel for $4, which makes 18 slugs. Simple list of wood strengths that are common dowel rods, higher is better. The Wikipedia Janka Hardness List: (Pounds-Force) Maple: 1450 White Oak: 1360 Yellow Birch: 1260 Black Walnut: 1010 White Pine (Shatters): 420 Poplar (Shatters): 300 I purchased oak and poplar dowels, oak for durable firing, poplar to watch them shatter. You can cut them with a hacksaw or wood-saw, but I strongly suggest using a Miter Power Saw. If you have access to one (ask family or neighbors), you can cut up 30 dowel slugs in about 5 minutes. I strongly recommend just purchasing a few entire 36" oak dowels (not cut) as ammunition, the full-size works very well. Aluminum and Steel Slugs The ultimate slug is one made of solid aluminum. Type 2024 (2EZJ4) aluminum (68000 PSI) can be had for just $24 per foot, 1 inch thick. That can easily make 8 slugs to fire, a 1 1/2" long slug is pretty powerful. My favorite slug ammunition, is 1/2" steel threaded couplings. You can find them in the electrical pipe section at Lowes, for $1.28 per coupling. Though they are made for 1/2" pipes, the metal walls are so thick that it is almost exactly 1" diameter. Hot-glue sticks are cheap, and by filling the round, we make it heavier, more durable, and able to catch air. This adds extra weight (force), and you would be surprised at how indestructible hot glue can be. To fill the slugs, simply place a coupling vertical on cement or concrete, and start pouring in hot glue. Let it dry, and you will have a hard, flat, front surface. The threads in the coupling ensure that the glue is impossible to tear out. I use two different filling methods: 1) Filled from top to bottom, for full force. 2) Fill 1/3 from the bottom, lighter, catches air more efficiently and goes faster. You wouldn't want to lose these like you would a potato or poplar slug, so I suggest spray-painting them fluorescent orange to find them. Battery Slugs If you don't want to take the time to cut your own dowels, or fill up couplings with hot glue, you can buy pre-manufactured rounds called C Batteries. It just so happens that most C batteries are a little under 1" diameter, and make for solid, heavy rounds. Buckshot I've found that the best buckshot for a 1" barrel, is 1/2" marbles. Just drop three or four down the tube, and they should come out with some power, and a very wide spread.

Image Notes 1. Oak 2" and 3" Slugs. 2. Poplar 2" and 3" Slugs.

Image Notes 1. Poplar 1" Dowel. 2. Oak 1" Dowel.

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3. C Batteries 4. Full Glue, Steel-Slugs. 5. 1/3 Glue, Steel Slugs. 6. 7" Oak and Poplar Rods.

3. 1/2" Steel Threaded Coupling.

Image Notes 1. Just pour it in. 2. Industrial Grade hot-glue gun.

Image Notes 1. 1/3 Filled Slug, lighter, faster. 2. Fully filled slug.

Image Notes 1. C Battery, 9000mAh Rechargeable NiMH.

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Image Notes 1. 1" Oak Dowel fits well, why not launch an entire 36" long dowel?

Image Notes 1. Miter saw I got for $30 at a yard sale. 2. Be careful, no hands past this line!

Image Notes 1. Fluorescent orange is the easiest color to spot your slugs.

Image Notes 1. Now they are much easier to recover.

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Step 9: Completion - Enjoy!

Well, you've completed your assembly, and now it's up to you to decide where to go and what to shoot. It's a great deal of fun to shoot at a few 1/2" plywood targets, coffee cans, or simply a long-range steel plate target. There are many more forms of ammunition I'm sure you can think of, only limited by your imagination and what you can fit into the barrel. I hope you have enjoyed this guide, if you expand or modify my designs, please show me pictures, I would love to see them. If you have any questions, praise, constructive criticism, or ideas, feel free to leave a comment. Good luck, share knowledge, and enjoy.

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Comments
6 comments

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Mar 3, 2011. 6:36 PM REPLY

ilpug says:
I find it funny that the much weaker combustion cannons are illegal, while the much more powerful air cannons are allowed.

QuackMasterDan says:

Mar 3, 2011. 10:20 PM REPLY Laws can be funny that way. For some odd reason, things that are illegal, often end up being very fun, including potato-cannons, homemade fireworks, file-sharing, speeding, and a limitless amount of other great activities.

ilpug says:
Just because it is fun, you shouldn't do it if it's illegal. Unless you live out in the middle of nowhere where no one cares.

Mar 4, 2011. 8:46 AM REPLY

mr. clean says:

Mar 2, 2011. 8:06 PM REPLY oh man if u really want to get crazy buy 1.5" or 2" steel gas pipe in 6 foot sections and use reducers and a plumbing pressure tester on one end for filling and the proper size ball valve for pressure release on the other. iv'e made 2 air cannons with these materials, it wasn't exactly cheap but the results are astounding. my largest is 1.5" barrel with a 1.5" air chamber and its around 13' long. i fire rocks and anything else i can find. when rocks are fired they are usually accompanied with sparks. also try to keep your air chamber the same volume as your barrel or a little larger. mine are also muzzle loaders but i don't use a ram rod i just unscrew the barrel each time and i pack a wad in the barrel to keep air from leaking around the projectile. that's my 2 cents on the subject. Dec 1, 2010. 9:01 AM REPLY Not intending to be a safety nut here, but if you or other readers were interested in adding a "safety" to prevent accidental firing you could add a second valve before or after the ball valve (trigger valve). If you used a screw valve like on a hose spiggot then it would take several turns to turn the safety on or off. When the safety valve is closed it cannot fire if you accidentally hit the ball valve.

classtopher says:

QuackMasterDan says:
Thanks for the suggestion, I may integrate it into future designs.

Dec 1, 2010. 11:41 AM REPLY

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