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http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/
Intro: Pneumatic Squib For On-Actor Film Blood Effects
This Instructable is derived from available Internet resources on fabricating special-effect blood-shooter devices from hand-pumped garden sprayers. It seeks mainly to
minaturise the design.
This particular design grew out of a general dissatisfaction with the restrictions the garden-sprayer style of blood-shooter placed on the staging and choreography of
blood effect shots.
The goal was to create a device that could replace the garden-sprayer design in all situations, and add flexibility in staging effect shots.
Image Notes
1. The Hand Control
2. Air Reservoir
The control line consists of only two unique components: the hosing and identical fittings at either end. The hosing is 1/8" OD urethane line. The fittings are 90º
universal fittings with 10-32 threads
Substitution Option:
2x Beswick Engineering MLS-1008-1-303 instead of the UT0-2
Beswick makes the smaller, square swivels with countersunk screw-heads that work just as well as the hexagonal UT0-2 fitting from Clippard, but they don't sell them
individually.
Image Notes
1. Clippard UT0-2 (hexagonal body) or Beswick Engineering MLS-1008-1-303 (square body)
2. Clippard UT0-2 (hexagonal body) or Beswick Engineering MLS-1008-1-303 (square body)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/
Step 2: Build the Hand Held Control
The control unit allows the device to be charged with air, and holds pressure in the device until the actor triggers the effect. It is a design that was originally developed as
a pilot trigger for an air cannon.
Design 1
1x 1/8" barb with 10-32 threads (CT4) capped with a
1/x short piece of 1/8" ID 1/4" OD urethane hose.
Design 2
A Quick Disconnect assembly made up of:
1x MJQC-VMT 10-32 threaded valve body
1x MJQC-CB4 1/8 barb quick disconnect cap
1. The check valve will have an arrow on it. If you ordered the valve with the suffix AA, screw a short coupling into the end of the valve the arrow points at. If you ordered
the valve with the suffix AB, this end of the valve will already have male threads.
2. Screw the check valve into the bottom of the 3-way toggle so the arrow points towards the 3-way valve.
3. Screw either of the inlet assemblies described above into the open end of the check valve.
4. There is one remaining threaded port on the 3-way (the output)- attach your signal/control line to that port. The smaller, non-threaded opening on the 3-way is the
exhaust and it should not be obstructed.
That's it - you should have something resembling the pictures from the above tutorial.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/
Image Notes
1. This is actually a Beswick Engineering 10-32 thread - 1/8 OD hose barb
elbow. It has the same features as a Clippard UT0-2, but it's got a square body
instead of a hexagonal one.
Image Notes
1. A Clippard UT0-2 Swivel Elbow. Slightly different that the square swivel
elbows (from Beswick Engineering) in the other images.
OPTION: Substitute 1 4CQ4 fitting (1/4" NPT to 1/8" Barb) for the 15027 (Bulkhead fitting) and one of the CT4 (10-32 to 1/8" barb) elements.
1. Screw the solid plug into one of the ports on the Volume Chamber.
2. Screw the quick exhaust valve into the other port on the volume chamber. There's only one male port on the QEV, so you can't get this wrong. (but for clarity, it's
labelled "C")
3. One of the remaining ports on the QEV will be marked "E". This is the port you attach the effect tube to. Screw one of the 10-32 threaded 1/8" barbs into the port.
5. Screw another 1/8" barb into the hexagon-shaped end of one of the 10-32 bulkhead fittings. Plug the barbed end of this fitting into the short piece of 1/4" OD line. You
may remove the retaining nut and lock-washer from the bulkhead fitting - you don't need them.
6. Work about a foot of the 3/8" vinyl tubing onto the bulkhead fitting. It will be a tight fit. I used needle-nosed pliers to stretch the hose to fit the fitting.
7. Attach one end of your control line to the remaining port on the QEV - it will be marked "L"
8. Squash the unconnected end of the 3/8" tubing flat and tape it shut with a strong waterproof tape.
9. Pierce or cut a port near the taped end of the hose which will act as the nozzle through which the stage blood will be ejected.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/
Image Notes
1. 11755
2. MAT-2.0
3. MEV-2
4. 15027
1. Fill the effect tube and cover the output hole with the smallest possible piece of low-tack masking tape.
2. Tape the effect under the actor's clothing in the appropriate orientation. If the tube must be oriented with the output hole higher than the quick-exhaust, I recommend
pushing a plug of banana down the hose before filling it with stage-blood.
3. Dress the actor in the outer costume and pass the control module down the actor's sleeve to their hand.
4. Make a very small cut in the costume over the output hole of the effect. The smaller the hole, the more blood will stay on the actor's clothes. The larger the hole, the
more blood will spray away from the actor.
5. Flip the switch towards the control line fitting and connect your air supply to the air inlet. Pressurise to between 60 and 100 PSI. (use a pump with a gauge, or a
compressor with a regulator)
6. Disconnect your air supply and film the scene - the check valve will keep the squib pressurised.
7. When the actor is ready, he can flip the switch and the effect will trigger.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/
Image Notes Image Notes
1. This is one of those conical adapters for filling air mattresses from a bike 1. Some bike pumps can grab the short hose and cinch tight enough to
pump. pressurise the squib.
2. If you're lucky, this is the small bit of hose you'll need to directly attach the
bike pump to the squib.
3. A longer bit of hose lets you use a friction-fit inflation adapter to attach the
squib to a bike pump
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Comments
45 comments Add Comment
If you have a local reseller like Wainbee, you may want to have them order the parts for you.
If you can't find a local source for Clippard parts, a company by the name of Pneumadyne makes similar products.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/
Crosius says: Nov 2, 2009. 3:29 PM REPLY
Blu-tac for plugging the tube is a great idea!
Also, great solution for avoiding early triggering. Too bad it will only work with the two-way valve, though, as the three-way's exhaust isn't threaded 10-
32 and the plug won't screw into it - if I wasn't using 3-ways on my squibs, I'd be using that on the next set.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/
Sruggiero86 says: Aug 13, 2009. 11:28 PM REPLY
I think it's me... I guess 100psi feels like a lot less pressure then I though...are there bigger volume chambers that will hold a greater psi for a more
powerful effect, or could i use a thinner tube to fill with the stage blood?
It seems that the UT0-2 fitting costs $11 for one, with a minimum order quantity of 5, so it comes out to five fittings for $55 dollars, approximately. I found that
part EA-LB10 from Pneumadyne seems to be comparable (10-32 threads with 1/16 inch barb), but for a little over $2.00 a piece, with a MOQ of 25... so for a
similar price, it seems you can get 25 instead of 5. Is this really a comparable part?
Also, I think it would be a nicer design if the 3-way valve that triggers the effect used a push-button actuator instead of a flip-switch. The push-button 3-way
toggle valves I found seem to be listed as either "normally open" or "normally closed." My assumption would be that the TV-3S is normally closed, but I'd like
to know for sure which one I should buy.
I'd suggest looking for a local pneumatic/hydraulic supply shop (one that caters to the manufacturing or tooling industry) that carries Clippard,
Pneumadyne, Beswick, ASCO or Parker valves if you want one-stop shopping. All these companies make 10-32 or M5 fittings and valves with
comparable features to the Clippard parts I refer to in this instructable.
If you're considering a two-litre pop-bottle as an air chamber, I highly recommend this tutorial by Indy Mogul on how to make a "Blood Shooter" - it's
entirely made with parts you can get at a hardware store.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/
kanzume says: Nov 3, 2008. 10:51 AM REPLY
Yes, I saw that -- that's where I got the coke bottle idea from, but it can't be actor-triggered. This is why I want to combine yours and Indymogul's
together...
While you can modify anything that generates a pulse of compressed air to shoot BBs, this device was designed to have low muzzle energy and
probably doesn't represent an optimal starting point for such re-design. If you're thinking in terms of a scale-RC "naval combat" cannon, you might be
able to use this to generate pulses of air for that application, if you were to actuate the 3-way with a servo.
I should also point out that none of these parts (which are only rated for 250 psig) are suitable for use with common BB propellants such as unregulated
carbon dioxide, which varies from 400 to 1200 psig. You'd certainly damage the seals in most of the valves, and you'd risk rupturing the pressure vessel.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pneumatic-Squib-Tutorial/