Everything you need to know about

OVERLOCKING
LESSON BOOKLET
Overlockers, also known as Sergers, can simplify and speed up so many of the common tasks used in sewing. Working at more than twice the speed of a domestice sewing machine, an overlocker is a pleasure to use and makes the task of sewing much quicker, neatening edges as you sew.
This booklet has been designed to enable you to keep a record of the different types of stitching (basic, special or decorative) that you will achieve if you follow the lessons in our DVD Everything you need to know about overlocking. The physical record of each stitch type will be a reminder when you come to use your overlocker for future projects. The data you record here will specifically relate to your own machine. Our students usually purchase a folder with clear plastic pockets to place their page and samples into. Getting started Sample Fabrics To follow the basic lessons we suggest you prepare samples of calico cut to fit the booklet pages. Most samples will require two layers. You will also need knitted fabric or lycra, super stretchy fabric, fine fabrics and firm fabric enough of each of these to create samples. Threads For the purposes of practicing, we suggest you use the colour threads that your machine is colour coded for, so that you can easily see on your samples how each needle or looper thread is working. It will be easier to make tension or other adjustments accordingly. We wish you all the best as you learn from these lessons. We hope you will become much more confident with the use of your machine. From the team at Sewing With Confidence.

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

Threading the Overlocker

Threading is the first step in using an overlocker, but is the most important step, as faulty threading will result in no stitches or faulty stitches forming. Threading an overlocker might look challenging but a good quality overlocker, will assist you by making this important step as easy and time saving as possible.

Your Overlocker should have

A threading diagram on the machine indicating the sequence and colour coding for each thread. Each threads path should be colour coded on the machine, from the thread stand to the needle or looper. A self-threading lower looper. Clip-off presser feet that enable you to reach the needles and loopers easily. Tension which releases as soon as the presser foot is lifted.

Start at the beginning

Choose a good quality thread. For regular sewing with normal tension, use the same type of thread for the loopers and the needles. Try not to use one large cone for one looper and a small 1000 m reel for the other looper as this could result in uneven tension. Do not use woolly thread referred to as flock or floss in the needles, as this will keep on breaking, jamming, perhaps even breaking the needles. Thread one reel at a time, starting at the thread stand and following the indicated path up to the needle or looper. Always start with the upper looper then the lower looper.

Always start with the upper looper, following the indicated path. Pulling in a new thread.
You can knot and pull a new thread through by following these basic guidelines. 1. Cut the threads between the thread stand and the thread spool. 2. Knot the new threads in position. 3. Remove the needle threads as the needles have to be threaded last. 4. Put the tension levers to the lowest number and lift the pressure foot to disengage the tension. 5. Pull one thread at a time to let it run through the thread guides. 6. Check that each thread is threaded correctly. 7. Do a test after each thread change.

Note: Follow the threading sequence for your specific

model. Bring all threads under the presser foot to the back and drop the presser foot. If you have a problem it is always better to remove the threads and start right from the beginning.

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

Threading your overlocker

After you have completed your threading using the 4 different colour threads, and the test is to your satisfaction note the settings below. Left Needle Upper Looper Cutting Width Right Needle Lower Looper Stitch Length -

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

4 thread overlock stitch

Two needles and two loopers are used. The 4-thread overlock will allow for fabric elasticity, which makes it an ideal stitch to use on knitted fabric, e.g., track-suiting and T-shirts Because the finished stitch width = 6mm, this stitch can be used to sew and overlock a seam in one operation. For example, in making tracksuits it will be strong enough. Preferably use calico for this test. Cut fabric 15cm long & 6cm wide. Divide in 3 equal segments = 3 cutting widths Cut fabric 16cm long & 6cm wide. Divide into 4 equal segments = 4 stitch lengths

Cutting width test: Stitch length test:

4 thread SL = 2.5 CW = 2

Varied Stitch Width CW = 1, 2 & 3

Varied Stitch Length SL = 1, 2, 3 & 4

The 4 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used for

Sewing up highly stretchable fabrics, e.g. gym and swimwear where seams will be under high strain. Special techniques, e.g. sewing on elastic, gathering with the overlocker, making piping and securing it in position. Decorative stitching, e.g. when doing tucks. 2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

3 thread overlock stitch

The 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH is formed by one needle thread, which anchors 2 looper threads. The two looper threads meet on the edge of the fabric and the needle thread acts as a straight stitch.

Record your machine settings below in each column for each sample you create. WIDE
Left NeedleRight NeedleUpper Looper Lower Looper Cutting WidthStitch Length-

NARROW
Left NeedleRight NeedleUpper Looper Lower Looper Cutting WidthStitch Length-

VERY NARROW
Left NeedleRight NeedleUpper Looper Lower Looper Cutting WidthStitch Length-

The 3 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used

To finish off frayed edges on woven fabrics or to form an open or closed single seam. To sew and finish off a seam in one operation when sewing lightweight knitted fabric, such as T-shirting. To sew decorative finishing, e.g. flat seams, decorative edges, tucks and making cords. To sew roll hemming and its variations such as pintucks and lace insertions.
2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

2 thread overlock stitch

using the UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER
Only one needle and one looper are used. The needle thread anchors the lower looper thread, which rolls or loops over to the top of the fabric.

2 thread seam finishing

2 thread Roll Hem

For a 2-thread overlock stitch, use the upper looper converter. The stitch looks like a 3-thread stitch from the top, but the needle thread forms, an even V on the bottom. Test for the correct stitch setting by pulling the fabric for the stitch to lie flat.

2 thread Flatlocking

The 2 THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH can be used for:

Finishing off raw edges on woven fabrics especially on very lightweight fabrics where a soft seam finish is required and where a 3- thread overlock stitch will be too thick and bulky. Decorative stitching such as flatlock seams, as it will pull open and lay flat Roll hemming and its variations
2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

4 thread overlock stitching

using DIFFERENTIAL FEED
All overlockers today offer this feature. It means that the feed mechanism is divided into two parts, which can operate as one or as separate parts It can be set as follows:

Normal setting (N) for regular sewing. The two parts work together and the fabric is fed through evenly. Special setting (1.5 to 2) for knitted fabric. The front section of the feeding mechanism moves up to twice the distance of the back section, resulting in the fabric being pushed together and thus preventing it from stretching during sewing. Special setting (0.7) for thin and difficult to handle fabrics. The back section of the feeding mechanism moves over a longer distance than the front section, resulting in the fabric being pulled through to the back, thus preventing the fabric from puckering. The differential feed feature will also enable you to gather with the overlocker and create a Super Stretch Stitch which is a very elastic stitch formed using two needles and the lower looper. This stitch requires the Upper Looper Converter and Woolly Nylon Thread (Also called floss or flock.)

Knitted fabric & lycra

Thin Fabrics

Gathering

Super Stretch Stitch

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

BASIC LESSON

Roll hemming
The new overlockers will sew roll hemming with great ease. No presser feet or stitching plates need to be changed. This stitch is ideally used as an edge finish on frills, sleeves and hems in fine fabrics.

Special hints when sewing rolled hems Set the overlocker as follows
Use a narrow three thread overlock or a two-thread overlock stitch. Set the cutting width to the lowest setting. Set the stitch length to 1mm depending on the thread and the required effect. Set the tension dials as per your instruction manual. When sewing a very fine and loosely woven fabric, use a slightly wider cutting width to ensure a strong, neat edge finish. Also start by cutting 4 cm off the seam allowance so that the needle will enter the fabric with the first stitch, Use a wide cutting width and tighter lower looper tension when sewing stiff fabrics. Avoid dog ears on corners: Start sewing, cutting 5 mm deeper than the required amount and move towards the cutting line. Sew up to 3 cm from the corner; sew at an angle towards the corner to cut off 5 mm more than normal.

On firm fabric

On lightweight fabric

On fine fabric

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

Specia

c l Te h LESSON

Finishing Off Chains

Because of the way an overlocker is designed, special techniques are required to use it effectively, e.g. overlockers do not sew in reverse, so to finish off beginnings and endings of seams the following techniques could be used.

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SEAM BEGINNING 1. Sew a 3-4 cm thread chain. 2. Sew 2 stitches onto the fabric. 3. Lower needle into the fabric. 4. Raise the presser foot. 5. Straighten out the thread chain and remove stitching from the stitch finger. Lay the threads from the left back to the front and lay it under the presser foot. 6. Lower the presser foot. 7. Sew over the thread chain for 2 cm and cut off the excess chain with the knife

SEAM ENDING 1. Sew to the end of the seam. 2. Raise the needle and presser foot. 3. Remove the stitching gently from the stitch finger. 4. Turn the fabric over towards you and lay it under the presser foot so that the needle enters the fabric with the first stitch. 5. Lower the presser foot. 6. Sew carefully over the previous stitching without cutting for about 2 cm. 7. Raise the tip of the foot and turn the work away from you. 8. Stitch off the edge.

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

Specia

c l Te h LESSON

Sewing Outside Corners

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1. Cut into the corners where you will be using this technique, cutting off the extra fabric you would normally cut off with the blades - about 3-4 cm. 2. Sew up to the corner and one stitch over the edge of the fabric. 3. Raise the needle and presser foot. 4. Pull the work slightly to the back to clear the stitch finger. 5. Turn the fabric and lay it under the presser foot so that the cut edge of the fabric is against the knife. 6. Lower the presser foot and needle. 7. If necessary, pull all the threads tight above the first machine guide. Continue sewing.

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

Specia

c l Te h LESSON

Sewing Inside Corners

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Cut

1. Prepare your fabric with a square shape cut out (as for a square neckline).

Cut out square 2. Snip into the corner up to the stitching line. (You may find it easier to trim the seam allowance to between 3 -6 mm depending on your Stitch Width).

3. Sew into the corner. 4. Straighten out the fabric. 5. Continue sewing

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

Specia

c l Te h LESSON

Sewing a Continuous Edge

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1. As the blade of an overlocker is positioned in front of the needle, special sewing techniques are required. 2. Cut away a 4cm section out of the seam allowance. 3. Raise the needle and presser foot. 4. Position the fabric under the presser foot with the cutaway edge against the knife. 5. Lower the presser foot and sew until the seam is complete. 6. Sew a few stitches over the previous stitches without cutting them. 7. Raise the tip of the presser foot. 8. Turn the work away and sew off the edge.

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

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Decorative Stitching

LESSONS

An overlocker can be used to its fullest potential by using it for decorative effects.
It has become so easy to sew decorative stitching.

With easy to set tensions and easy selections of stitches e.g. roll hemming without the need to change presser feet or stitch plates. The possibility to convert a 3-thread stitch to a 2-thread overlock stitch in seconds. And the availability of specialized presser feet and accessories, e.g. gathering, piping, cord work, etc. See the section on Overlocker Accessories

Some Tips for using Decorative Threads:

Decorative threads specially made for overlockers are becoming widely available. You may need to change the tensions when using special threads on an overlocker: When using slippery decorative thread use the spool nets for even unwinding. This is important only use decorative threads in the loopers. Threads must move easily and without resistance through the thread guides and looper eye and this should be taken into account when purchasing the thread. The thicker the thread, the looser the tensions. To set the tension, set one tension at a time. An important TIP sew slowly when using decorative threads and pull the thread chain gently backwards when starting to sew. ALWAYS test-sew when using decorative threads.

If you are not sure if you have enough thread,

you can calculate the amount of decorative thread needed for your project as follows: Looper threads will require 7 mt of thread for every 1 mt length of stitching. So measure the length you need to sew and multiply it by 7.

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2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

ora ec ti LESSON

Decorative Tucks
Decorative tucks can be very effective, Turn and lock the upper blade away. Fold the fabric and guide the fold on the guide mark on the presser foot.

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TUCK VARIATIONS 1. Use a wide 3-thread overlock stitch with different thread colours in the loopers. 2. Overlock parallel tucks. 3. Always start the tucks at the same end and position the fabric so that when you sew the pucks down you will get the effect you are wanting. 4. Now sew the tucks down with a sewing machine in alternative directions (See the lesson)

DECORATIVE EDGES 1. Use a 3 thread narrow overlock stitch(See lesson 3 of basic lessons). Use decorative threads in the loopers. 2. Set the stitch length very short - to a satin stitch length. 3. The looper threads must meet at the edge of the fabric. (This is not a ROLL hemming stitch).

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

ora ec ti LESSON

Decorative Roll Hemming

Apart from roll hemming being a practical stitch; it can be used very effectively as decorative stitching. (See Lesson 6 under the basic stitches section on how to set your machine for roll hemming). Remember decorative thread is only used on the upper looper. When using decorative thread your settings may need ro be adjusted.

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Try these variations

Use a decorative upper looper.

thread in the

1. Set the machine for a short

stitch length and sew a satin stitch rolled edge.

2. NOW DO A TEST 3. You may need to adjust the

tension to suit the thread thickness.

Pin Tucks
This is very effective on shirts, skirts & yokes. Turn the blade away and sew the rolled edge on folded fabric to form a pin-tuck.

Lace Insertions
Place the wrong sides together when you sew the lace in position using a roll hem.

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.

ora ec ti LESSON

Flatlock Seams
Flat seams are formed by sewing a 2 or 3 thread overlock stitch to join two pieces of fabric or on the fold of the fabric. The fabric is then pulled open so that the stitch lies flat.

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Settings for Flatlocking 1. Use a 3 or 2 thread overlock

stitch. Set the needle tension at the lowest setting, and the lower looper tighter. use the upper looper converter. (See lesson 4 in basic lessons.) stitch from the top, but the needle thread forms, an even V on the bottom. These threads must meet at the edge of the fabric by pulling the fabric for the stitch to lie flat.

2. For a 2-thread overlock stitch,

3. The stitch looks like a 3-thread

4. Test for the correct stitch setting

2011 Sewing With Confidence Ltd.