Jewellery Box Book Issue

part one: ear
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jewellery box
london
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jewellery box
lone bru kjr
laurence king publishing
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Published in 2013 by Laurrence King Publishing Ltd 361-373 City Road London EC1V 1LR United Kingdom Tel: +44 20 78416900 Fax: +44 20 7841 6910 email: enquiries@laurenceking.com www.laurenceking.com Copyright 2013 Lone Bru Kjr All right reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including, photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN-13: 978-82-04-10513-4 ISBN-10: 82-04-10513-4 Design: Lone Bru kjr Cover Box and design: Lone Bru Kjr Picture research: Lone Bru kjr Paper: 80 grams Ensplux Cream 1.6 The book is set in 9 pt. Adobe Caslon Pro / Valentina Printing and Binding: Index Print, London
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7 preface 10 what is jewellery? 12 19 23 29 35 39 45 55 57 part one: ear random meetings: ear pictures: ear combination in east part two: nose random meetings: nose pictures: nose the most important part three: necklace pictures: necklace quote for jewellery pictures: necklace 69 75 79 87 95 part four: mouth random meetings: mouth pictures: mouth inside the shop part five: materials different materials the jewellery student
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preface
Jewellery is a piece of item you use to adorn yourself with, an item to show beauty and as an interesting item that makes the person wearing them more interesting too. The history of jewellery started for hundred of thousands of years ago, with the oldest jewellery found from 100,000 year old beads made from Nassarius shells. Depending on culture, style and choices , jewellery is used to increase an expression of a person. The word jewellery is derived from the word, jewel, which has anglicized from the old french jouel. Today you see jewellery everywhere in different shapes, size and colour and is rapidly becoming a statement and seen as important.
Lone Bru Kjr Graphic Designer and Author
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part one: ear
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part one: ear
what is jewellery?
introduction
I will write a little about the history of jewellery bringing together some important information from the major phases of mans history. From Europe and the ancient cultures of Western Asia to India, Africa, America, Tibet and the far East. Jewellery has always been a way to adorn themselves and is the oldest art form of creative arts. We dont have the date from the first jewellerys was used, but there is found a little carved stone pendants representing animals and objects in Mesopotamia and is from about 3000 BC. Jewellery or jewelry is a form of personal adornment, such as brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. With some exceptions, such as watches, medical alert bracelets or military dog
tags, jewellery normally differs from other items of personal adornment in that it has no other purpose than to look appealing, but humans have been producing and wearing it for a long time with 100,000-year-old beads made from Nassarius shells thought to be the oldest known jewellery. Jewellery may be made from a wide range of materials, but gemstones, precious metals, beads, and shells have been widely used. Depending on the culture and times jewellery may be appreciated as a status symbol, for its material properties, its patterns, or for meaningful symbols. Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly every body part, from hairpins to toe rings.
The word jewellery itself is derived from the word jewel, which was anglicized from the Old French jouel, and beyond that, to the Latin word jocale, meaning plaything. In British English, the spelling can be written as jewelery or jewellery, while the spelling is jewelry in American English. Most cultures at some point have had a practice of keeping large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures move wedding dowries in the form of jewellery or create jewellery as a means to store or display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been used as a currency or trade good; an example being the use of slave beads. Many items of jewellery, such as brooches and buckles, originated as purely func-
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tional items, but evolved into decorative items as their functional requirement diminished. Jewellery can also be symbolic of group membership, as in the case of the Christian crucifix or Jewish Star of David, or of status, as in the case of chains of office, or the Western practice of married people wearing a wedding ring. Wearing of amulets and devotional medals to provide protection or ward off evil is common in some cultures; these may take the form of symbols (such as the ankh), stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the Khamsa), or glyphs (such as stylised versions of the Throne Verse in Islamic art). Although artistic display has clearly been a function of jewellery from the very beginning, the other roles described above tended to take primacy.[citation needed] It was only in the late 19th century, with the work of such masters as Peter Carl Faberg and Ren Lalique, that art began to take primacy over function and wealth. [citation needed] This trend has continued into modern times, expanded upon by artists such as Robert Lee Morris, Ed Levin, and Alberto Repossi. In creating jewellery, gemstones, coins, or other precious items are often used, and they are typically set into precious metals. Alloys of nearly every metal known have been encountered in jewellery. Bronze, for example, was common in Roman times. Modern fine jewellery usually includes gold, white gold, platinum, palladium, titanium, or silver. Most American and European gold jewellery is made of an alloy of gold, the purity of which is stated in karats, indicated by a number followed by the letter K. Other commonly used materials include glass, such as fused-glass or enamel; wood, often carved or turned; shells and other natural animal
substances such as bone and ivory; natural clay; polymer clay; and even plastics. Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create jewellery that has more of a natural feel. Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass, gemstones, metal, wood, shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded jewellery commonly encompasses necklaces, bracelets, earrings, belts and rings. Beads may be large or small; the smallest type of beads used are known as seed beads, these are the beads used for the woven style of beaded jewellery. Another use of seed beads is an embroidery technique where seed beads are sewn onto fabric backings to create broad collar neck pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a popular type of handwork during the Victorian era, is enjoying a renaissance in modern jewellery making. Beading, or beadwork, is also very popular in many African and indigenous North American cultures. Advanced glass and glass beadmaking techniques by Murano and Venetian glassmasters developed crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (goldstone), multicoloured glass (millefiori), milk-glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made of glass.[citation needed] As early as the 13th century, Murano glass and Murano beads were popular. Silversmiths, goldsmiths, and lapidaries methods include forging, casting, soldering or welding, cutting, carving and cold-joining (using adhesives, staples and rivets to assemble parts). The modern jewellery movement began in the late 1940s at the end of World War II with a renewed interest in artistic and leisurely pursuits. The movement is most noted with works by Georg Jensen and other jewellery designers who advanced
the concept of wearable art. The advent of new materials, such as plastics, Precious Metal Clay (PMC), and colouring techniques, has led to increased variety in styles. Other advances, such as the development of improved pearl harvesting by people such as Mikimoto Kkichi and the development of improved quality artificial gemstones such as moissanite (a diamond simulant), has placed jewellery within the economic grasp of a much larger segment of the population. The jewellery as art movement was spearheaded by artisans such as Robert Lee Morris and continued by designers such as Gill Forsbrook in the UK. Influence from other cultural forms is also evident. One example of this is blingbling style jewellery, popularised by hiphop and rap artists in the early 21st century, i.e. grills, a type of jewellery worn over the teeth. The late 20th century saw the blending of European design with oriental techniques such as Mokume-gane. The following are innovations in the decades straddling the year 2000: Mokume-gane, hydraulic die forming, anti-clastic raising, fold-forming, reactive metal anodising, shell forms, PMC, photoetching. Artisan jewellery continues to grow as both a hobby and a profession. With more than 17 United States periodicals about beading alone. Some fine examples of artisan jewellery can be seen at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. The increase in numbers of students choosing to study jewellery design and production in Australia has grown in the past 20 years, and Australia now has a thriving contemporary jewellery community. Many of these jewellers have embraced modern materials and techniques, as well as incorporating traditional workmanship.
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Here the student is in the studio at London Metropolitan University London, working on making rings out of types of metal.
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random meetings: ear

london
During the making of this book i am walking around in the city and meeting the people that makes this city to what t is. It is wonderful to go to different places like Brick Lane, Camden, Portobello, Notthing Hill, Victoria Park, Central London, Chelsea and other places in London to also see if there is a different in how people are expressions themselfs. I see a lot of ear pieces and other types of jewellery here in London and it it seems like it is very popular with using that for of art to express their style. In this section I will look closer at ear jewellery or piercerings as that is the most common and most used form of piercings. A variety of techniques are used to pierce
ears, ranging from do it yourself methods using household items to medically sterile methods using specialized equipment. A long-standing home method involves using ice as a local anesthetic, a sewing needle as a puncture instrument, a burning match and rubbing alcohol for disinfection, and a semi-soft object, such as a potato, cork, or rubber eraser, as a push point. Sewing thread may be drawn through the piercing and tied, as a device for keeping the piercing open during the healing process. Alternatively, a gold stud or wire earring may be directly inserted into the fresh piercing as the initial retaining device. Home methods are often unsafe and risky due to issues
of improper sterilization or placement. Another method for piercing ears, first made popular in the 1960s, was the use of sharpened spring-loaded earrings known as self-piercers, trainers, or sleepers, which gradually pushed through the earlobe. However, these could slip from their initial placement position, often resulting in more discomfort, and many times would not go all the way through the earlobe without additional pressure being applied. This method has fallen into disuse due to the popularity of faster and more successful piercing techniques. And as you will se in this section is exactley this, a lot of different ways of having the piercings and jewellery in the ear.
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The ear cuff or ear hanger is one of the latest trends starting carefully last year (2012) and has carried on with huge success this year in the mainstream shops (2013). It is still blooming in the shops with new designs and is very trendy now with further models coming out for the summer. This piece is from Asos.com
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how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot more simple than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery. That is actually size! I look after cool pices thathas a certin size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool without me having to put so much efford
into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Maybe, gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is the most important for me as I like the simple and longlasting designs. why do you wear this jewellery? Expression of interest in its look on me. do you want to send a signal with the jewellery, and if yes, what? Not sure. Vanity. Look at my style. Where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? Istanbul, India and Camden Market. do you know anyone that has the same jewellery as you? and if yes what do you think about that? My father has the same ring. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? Powerful! Where do you usually get your jewellery form? Anywhere if I see something by chance. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I prefer that is made of silver as I find that cooler than gold. what is most important for you in jewellery? That is for male. I care about the signal it sends in that way, I want to use jewellery that suits men better than woman to send that signal. what types of jewellery do you use and why? My ring and necklace because I love them. It suits my style and amplifier my style in a way that I want it to.
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how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be so extreme and with a lot more new places and ways to take them. do you care about the material the jewellery is made of? I sometimes get a skin reaction on some materials, but otherwise than that no. where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? This earrings I got from different places, the top one is fro a piercing studio in America. The small one is from London, and the black rose was a gift from my boyfriend. do why do you wear this jewellery? I bought it when I was young, unfortunately I cant remember why I bought it. I think maybe at the time I though it was rebellious. Now I just wear it because it feels like a part of me. where did you get the jewellery? At the tattoo shop in Glasgow. what do you feel when you wear this jewellery? I have been wearing it for such a long time now so I dont really notice it, but sometimes I notice that it freaks other people out. where do you usually get youre jewellery? I usually pick them up from places I have visited or gone to abroad. I like that it has a little story to it. do you know anyone with the same jewellery? Not that I know of, the ear piercing I am wearing on my ear is handmade. what do you feel when you wear this type of jewellery? Interesting since it is a bit different that other type of jewellery I see more of. how do you think future jewellery will be? I think body modification will only get more extreme. 1 helen grunning 21, brick lane 2 adam jackson 34, camden
you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you? and if yes, what does that make you feel? No not these pieces in my ear. And that makes me feel more unique or special I guess. It is always nice to stand out with some jewellery or clothes. what do you feel when wearing this jewellery? I feel more special than if I did not wear them. But that might be because of I have used for suck a long time now that when I take it off it feels like something is missing.
3 christina bidwell 19, crawly 4 raquel cardela 22, brick lane
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into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Maybe, gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is the most important for me as I like the simple and longlasting designs. how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot simpler than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery? That is actually size! I look after cool pieces that have a certain size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool without me having to put so much effort into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I think that gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is the most important for me as I like the simple and long-lasting designs.
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why do you wear this jewellery? Expression of interest in its look on me. do you want to send a signal with the jewellery, and if yes, what? Not sure. Vanity. Look at my style. Where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? Istanbul, India and Camden Market. do you know anyone that has the same jewellery as you? and if yes what do you think about that? My father has the same ring. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? Powerful! Where do you usually get why do you wear this jewellery? I wear it because I am going to a special event in Covent Garden. I am going to an art fair and artist talks. I wear this because I wanted to have a feminine outfit today and this compliments that style. where di you get the jewellery you are wearing now? This flower earring I got from Topshop here in Oxford Circus, so that one is not so special. I usually buy a lot from those types of shops since I have so many styles and outfits I am looking for accessories for, do you know anyone else with the same jewellery? And if yes, what does it make you feel? Yes my best friend has the same earring; we bought them together so I feel that it makes the jewellery more special since I bought it with her. Like a friendship piece hehe. what is the most important for you in jewellery? I prefer things that are modern and have an esthetic look to it. I buy both expensive and cheaper jewellery but the look of it is the most important for me. Since I blog about fashion as well I need a lot of different styles and jewellery. 5 henry micheal 40, gatwick 6 steffany saunders 21, bath
youre jewellery form? Anywhere if I see something by chance. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I prefer that is made of silver as I find that cooler than gold. what is most important for you in jewellery? That is for male. I care about the signal it sends in that way, I want to use jewellery that suits men better than woman to send that signal. what types of jewellery do you use and why? My ring and necklace because I love them. It suits my style and amplifier my style in a way that I want it to.
7 scott temple 36, notthing hill 8 jenny holmess 24, oxfor circus
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Colourful girl from when I was in Camden to look at the diversity of this part of London. Here there is a lot of piercings and people that express them self. Under is from a University Catwalk show.
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combinations in east
As I am walking in Brick Lane I meet so much street style, jewellery and expressions. This is one of the places in London which has that creative and free spsirit feeling which really makes people not caring of what others think. They are wearing exactley what they want and are proud of that! Brick Lane is located in East London and is also very close to Shoreditch which is also a favorite popular place here in the east. The spirit and vibe here is just amazing and if you are going to London, you hav to go here. There is always a lot to see here and the Brick Lane Market is a London market centred around Brick Lane, Tower Hamlets in east London. It is located at the northern end of Brick Lane and along Cheshire Street, in the heart of East Londons Bangladeshi community. It operates every Sunday from around 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Almost anything can be found on Brick Lane, from antique books to eight-track cartridge decks (for many years it hosted a stall selling nothing but rusty cog wheels). There is a possibility of such strange discoveries and it has always been popular with and much photographed by art students. Bargain hunters from across London also value it greatly. It is a lot of handmadejewellery and other treasures here. An earring is a piece of jewellery attached to the ear via a piercing in the earlobe or another external part of the ear (except in the case of clip earrings, which clip onto the lobe). Earrings are worn by both sexes, although more common among women, and have been used by different civilizations in different times. Common locations for piercings, other than the earlobe, include the rook, tragus, and across the helix (see image at right). [citation needed] The simple term ear piercing usually refers to an earlobe piercing, whereas piercings in the upper part of the external ear are often referred to as cartilage piercings. Cartilage piercings are more complex to perform than earlobe piercings and take longer to heal. Earring components may be made of any number of materials, including metal, plastic, glass, precious stone, beads, wood, bone, and other materials. Designs range from small loops and studs to large plates and dangling items. The size is ultimately limited by the physical capacity of the earlobe to hold the earring without tearing. However, heavy earrings worn over extended periods of time may lead to stretching of the earlobe and the piercing. Ear piercing is one of the oldest known forms of body modification, with artistic and written references from cultures around the world dating back to early history. Early evidence of earrings worn by men can be seen in archeological evidence from Persepolis in ancient Persia. The carved images of soldiers of the Persian Empire, displayed on some of the surviving walls of the palace, show them wearing an earring. Other early evidence of earring-wearing is evident in the Biblical record. In Exodus 32:1- 4, it is written that while Moses was up on Mount Sinai, the Israelites demanded that Aaron make a god for them. It is written that he commanded them to bring their sons and daughters earrings (and other pieces of jewelry) to him in order that he might comply with their demand. (ca. 1500 BCE). Earrings became fashionable among courtiers and gentlemen in the 1590s during the English Renaissance. A document published in 1577 by clergyman William Harrison, Description of England, states Some lusty courtiers and
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gentlemen of courage do wear either rings of gold, stones or pearls in their ears.Among sailors, a pierced earlobe was a symbol that the wearer had sailed around the world or had crossed the equator.In addition, it is commonly held[citation needed] that a gold earring was worn by sailors in payment for a proper burial in the event that they might drown at sea. Should their bodies have been washed up on shore, it was hoped that the earring would serve as payment for a proper Christian burial. Regardless of this expression, the practice predates Christianity and can be traced back as far as ancient Greece where the gold paid the ferryman, Charon, to provide passage across the river Styx to Hades. Detail from Chandos portrait (1660s) of William Shakespeare; earrings were emblematic of poets at the time. The habit of wearing earrings was a tradition for Ainu men and women,[4] but the Government of Meiji Japan forbade Ainu men to wear earrings in the late-19th century. Earrings were also commonplace among nomadic Turkic tribes. Wearing earrings has became popular with mainstream men in many parts of the world. In the late 1960s, ear piercing began to make inroads among men through the hippie and gay communities. At that time, the practice re-emerged, but since a large commercial market for them did not exist, most ear piercings were done at home.[citation needed] Teenage girls were known to hold ear piercing parties, where they performed the procedure on one another. Such an event is depicted in the 1978 motion picture Grease (set in 1959), where Sandy (Olivia Newton-John), the leading lady, is pierced by her friends. In the late 1970s, amateur piercings, sometimes with safety pins and/or multiple piercings, became popular in the punk rock community. By the 1980s, the trend for male popular music performers to have pierced ears helped establish a fashion trend for men. This was later adopted by many professional athletes. British men started piercing both ears in the 1980s; George Michael of Wham! was a prominent example. The heavily jeweled Mr. T was an early example of an American celebrity wearing earrings in both ears, although this trend did not become popular with mainstream American men until the 1990s. Multiple piercings in one or both ears first emerged in mainstream America in the 1970s. Initially, the trend was for women to wear a second set of earrings in the earlobes, or for men to double-pierce a single earlobe. Asymmetric styles with more and more piercings became popular, eventually leading to the cartilage piercing trend. A variety of specialized cartilage piercings have since become popular. These include the tragus piercing, antitragus piercing, rook piercing, industrial piercing, helix piercing, orbital piercing, daith piercing, and conch piercing. In addition, earlobe stretching, while common in indigenous cultures for thousands of years, began to appear in Western society in the 1990s, and is now a fairly common sight. However, these forms of ear piercing are still infrequent compared to standard ear piercing. A navel curve used as an
earring with a green gemmed ear stud above it. Ear piercing became commonly available in physician offices. Some of the earliest commercial, non-medical locations for getting an ear piercing appeared in the 1960s at Manhattan jewelry stores, although the overall commercial market was still in its infancy. By the 1980s, ear piercing was common among many women, thus creating a broader market for the procedure. Department stores throughout the country would hold ear piercing events, sponsored by earring manufacturers. At these events, a nurse or other trained person would perform the procedure, either pushing a sharpened and sterilized starter earring through the earlobe by hand, or using an ear-piercing instrument modified from the design used by physicians. In India, nearly all the girls and some boys get their ears pierced in a religious ceremony. before they are about 5 years old. Infants may get their ears pierced as early as several days after their birth. Similar customs are practiced in other Southeast Asian countries, including Nepal, Sri Lanka, and Laos, although traditionally most males wait to get their ears pierced until they have reached young adulthood. They only tend to allow one piercing on each ear as it is disrespectful to have any more than that. Stud earrings - The main characteristic of stud earrings is the appearance of floating on the ear or earlobe without a visible (from the front) point of connection. Studs are invariably constructed on the end of a post, which penetrates straight through the ear. The post is held in place by a removable friction back or clutch. Occasionally, the stud earring is constructed so that the post is threaded, allowing a screw back to securely hold the earring in place. This is useful in preventing the loss of expensive earrings containing precious stones or made of precious metals. Hoop earrings - hoop earrings are circular or semi-circular in design, and look very similar to a ring. They are often constructed of metal tubing, with a thin wire attachment penetrating the ear. The hollow tubing is permanently attached to the wire at the front of the ear, and slips into the tube at the back. The entire device is held together by tension between the wire and the tube. Other hoop designs do not complete the circle, but penetrate through the ear in a post, using the same attachment techniques that apply to stud earrings. A variation is the continuous hoop earring. In this design, the earring is constructed of a continuous piece of solid metal, which penetrates through the ear and can be rotated almost 360. One of the ends is permanently attached to a small piece of metallic tubing or a hollow metallic bead. The other end is inserted into the tubing or bead, and is held in place by tension. One special type of hoop earring is the sleeper earring. This is a very small continuous piece of (typically) gold wire which essentially hugs the base of the earlobe with the ends connecting in the back. Because their small size makes them comfortable, sleepers are sometimes worn at night to keep an ear piercing from closing. Dangle earrings - Dangle earrings are designed to flow from
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the bottoms of the earlobes, and are available in various lengths from a centimeter or two, all the way to brushing the shoulders. They are generally attached to the ear by the use of thin wires, which go through the earlobe and connect to themselves in a small hook at the back. A variation is the French hook design, which merely hangs from the earlobe without closure, although small plastic retainers are sometimes used on ends of French hooks. Rarely, dangle earrings use the post attachment design. Huggy earrings - Huggies are a popular style of earring where the setting actually hugs your earlobe. These can come in different shapes and sizes, from hearts to rectangles. Many custom jewelers make huggy earrings because of the many varieties of setting that can be used to make a good template for their craft. Most times, stones are channel set in huggy earrings. Slave earrings - The slave earring is also called a Bajoran earring, which became highly popular after it appeared on Star Trek. Ear Thread - Or Earthreader, Ear String, Threader, a chain that is thin enough to slip into the ear hole, and come back out, dangles. Sometimes, people add beads or other materials on to the chain, so the chain dangles with beads below the ear. Ear Spikes - A type of plastic stick 1 mm in diameter and 1.5 cm long that goes into the ear piercing. It does not fall out because it is slightly bigger than the piercing. It is quite popular amongst teenage and preteen girls in Hong Kong, as most schools do not even allow stud earrings. Body piercing jewelry is often used for ear piercings, and is selected for a variety of reasons including the availability of larger gauges, better piercing techniques, and a disdain for mainstream jewelry.
Captive bead rings - Captive bead rings, often abbreviated as CBRs and sometimes called ball closure rings, are a style of body piercing jewelry that is an almost 360 ring with a small gap for insertion through the ear. The gap is closed with a small bead that is held in place by the rings tension. Larger gauge ball closure rings exhibit considerable tension, and may require ring expanding pliers for insertion and removal of the bead. Barbells - Barbells are composed of a thin, straight metal rod with a bead permanently fixed to one end. The other end is threaded, either externally or tapped with an internal thread, and the other bead is screwed into place after the barbell is inserted through the ear. Since the threads on externally threaded barbells tend to irritate the piercing, internal threads have become the most common variety. Circular Barbells - Circular Barbells are similar to ball-closure rings, except that they have a larger gap, and have a permanently attached bead at one end, and a threaded bead at the other, like barbells. This allows for much easier insertion and removal than with ball closure rings, but at the loss of a continuous look. Plugs - Earplugs are short cylindricals pieces of jewelry. Some plugs have flared ends to hold them in place, others require small elastic rubber rings (O-rings) to keep them from falling out. They are usually used in large-gauge piercings. Flesh tunnels - Flesh tunnels, also known as eyelets or Bullet Holes, are similar to plugs; however, they are hollow in the middle. Flesh tunnels are most commonly used in larger gauge piercings either because weight is a concern to the wearer or for aesthetic reasons.
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random meetings: nose

london
Nose piercing is the piercing of the skin or cartilage which forms any part of the nose, normally for the purpose of wearing jewelry, the nostril piercing is the most common. Nose piercing is one of the most common varieties of piercing after earlobe piercing. Nostril piercing is a body piercing practice often associated with India, Pakistan, Nepal, South Asia and Australia.Nostril piercing has in recent decades become popular in the industrialized nations, as have other forms of body piercing, after punks and subsequent youth cultures in the 80s and 90s adopted this sort of piercing. Today, nostril piercing is popular in the United States of America, the UK,
Canada, the Caribbean, Australia and Europe, with piercings being performed on either the left or right nostril. Both men and women have nostril piercings, though they are much more common on women. The most popular are the loop, the stud with an L-bar closure, the stud with a ball closure, and the stud with a flat backing. In India the outside of the left is the preferred position of the piercing as this is supposed to make childbirth easier. This is because Ayurvedic medicine associates this location with the female reproductive organs. In India piercings were regarded as a mark of beauty and social standing as well as a Hindus honor to
Parvati, the goddess of marriage. Nose piercing is still popular in India and are often part of Indian wedding jewellery. In Maharastra women wear very large nose pieces that often cover the mouth or the side of the face. Many South Indian Tamil also follow this tradition. The tradition follows that the woman has her nose rings to pay for her funeral if she has all the gold taken from her. Nose rings or gold studs cannot be easily removed from the woman. Many women from the Asian subcontinent are cremated with just their nose studs as jewellery is removed before the funeral. Indian widows usually remove their nose studs as a sign of respect.
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The nose ring is here to stay, as you see in the city of London this jewellery is extremely popular. From gentle and clean pieces to glamoures with diamonds, neon colours and craftsmanship that makes them stand out (like the ones on the right from Givenchy)! This type of jewellery is worn a lot by Indiens as it is common in their religion and culture.
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into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Maybe, gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is the most important for me as I like the simple and longlasting designs. how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot simpler than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery? That is actually size! I look after cool pieces that have a certain size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool without me having to put so much effort into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I think that gold is nice but depends on the material.
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how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot more simple than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery. That is actually size! I look after cool pices thathas a certin size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool without me having to put so much efford why do you wear this jewellery? Expression of interest in its look on me. do you want to send a signal with the jewellery, and if yes, what? Not sure. Vanity. Look at my style. Where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? Istanbul, India and Camden Market. do you know anyone that has the same jewellery as you? and if yes what do you think about that? My father has the same ring. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? Powerful! Where do you usually get your jewellery form? Anywhere if I see something by chance. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I prefer that is made of silver as I find that cooler than gold. what is most important for you in jewellery? That is for male. I care about the signal it sends in that way, I want to use jewellery that suits men better than woman to send that signal. what types of jewellery do you use and why? My ring and necklace.
into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Maybe, gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is the most important for me as I like the simple and longlasting designs.
9 helen grunning 21, brick lane 10 adam jackson 34, camden
11 christina bidwell 19, crawly 12 mchela grachos 23, athens
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into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Maybe, gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is the most important for me as I like the simple and longlasting designs. how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot more simple than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery. That is actually size! I look after cool pices thathas a certin size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool without me having to put so much efford into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I think that gold is nice but depends on the material.
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how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot more simple than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery. That is actually size! I look after cool pices thathas a certin size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool without me having to put so much efford why do you wear this jewellery? I wear it because I am going to a special event in Covent Garden. I am going to an art fair and artist talks. I wear this because I wanted to have a feminine outfit today and this compliments that style. where di you get the jewellery you are wearing now? This flower earring I got from Topshop here in Oxford Circus, so that one is not so special. I usually buy a lot from those types of shops since I have so many styles and outfits I am looking for accessories for, do you know anyone else with the same jewellery? And if yes, what does it make you feel? Yes my best friend has the same earring; we bought them together so I feel that it makes the jewellery more special since I bought it with her. Like a friendship piece hehe. what is the most important for you in jewellery? I prefer things that are modern and have an esthetic look to it. Xpensive jewellery but the look of it is the most important for me.
into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Maybe, gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is the most important for me as I like the simple and longlasting designs.
13 jenna mitchell 34, camden 14 joseph bidwell 24, bow
15 staffany jackson 27, hacney 16 jessica hasoff 18, portobello
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part five: materials
the most important

Going through a springday in London I find myself on the way to portobello. I am going there to interview a girl that works arround unique items and knows the industry. I meet Linnea, an assistant manager at Chic Freak fashion shop in Portobello Road located with beautiful surroundings. I talk with her about jewellery and get to know her a little bit better. Thank you for meeting me today and taking the time to talk with me. I want to ask you some questions and get your views on jewellery. First I want to ask you why do you wear your jewellery? I love silverdesign and clean shapes, not too much bling. A few selected designer items that goes well together. Ive had my nosering for ten years now and i just forget that its there. Do you want to send a signal with the jewellery, and if yes, what? Perhaps to show fine taste in design and that Im an estetic person. I kept the nosering to keep a playful side of me even though Im close to 30... Where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? Some of my rings was a gift form my father who has got them from silversuits design. Some I bought myself to support swedish designers that doesnt massproduce. I am swedish of origin so that is why I want to support swedish designers. Also then by updating myself on what is happening in the jewellery world over there. Do you know anyone that has the same jewellery as you? And if yes, what do you think about that? I dont know... I like to think that not to many others have the same items since I buy few and more expencive pieces. I want to stand out and therefor with my choices of jewellery does that more if not everyone has the same items. Actually I remember in University when I was younger I had just bought myslf a really pretty ring that I had saved up for for a while. When I came to my university later with my new ring I saw that someone from my parallel class had the excact same ring. I felt a bit irritated because I had saved up for it and too se someone has the same piece was boring. What do you feel when you wear jewellery? I feel like Ive lost something If I dont put my rings on in the morning and sometimes I feel confused during the day because Im so used to it. I never take my earpiercings of. And if I do, I will actually go home just to put it on again. Hehe that is how naked I feel without them. Where do you get your jewellery from? Presents from older relatives. Sometimes I buy myself, I think
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etsy.com is terrific to support undiscovered artists/designers. I think that is important for newcomers to be able to continue their work. And I want to support the business where creativity and craftmanship goes beyond cheap massproduced items that loose their greatness because of that. Everyone wants to support someting they like and therefor I do that myself too. How do you think future jewellery will be? Back to basics? Hopefully when all the madness in jewellerydesign I guess from the future will be overflowing with materials, colours, wild imagination that I see for me that future jwellery maybe will be. That the industry will take it back to basics with focus on clean jewellery with good material and great design. It is a little of how I want it to be now, but then again it is great with so much variations because then everyone truly can find thei style and present the expression they want to create. Do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Yes, I like silver and titan, and sometimes gemstones like amethysts or emeralds-things that goes with my eyes or skin ect. Im a silver person, never wear gold, it doesnt suit me. I think most people are like that, either you like gold or silver the most, usally having a favorite. What is the most important for you in jewellery? That its well made, interesting shapes, good quality, not to common/mainstream. That is because I want to have someting unique, and knowing about the material and the good quality makes me happy because I know that it is something that will last for a very long time. What types of jewellery do you use most and why? Silver rings, ear and nosepiercing, always my long buddhist necklace. Not religiously though, just for fashion. Sometimes my watch also all depending on my outfit and mood. I can use jewellery to finish the outfit with the expression that I like best. When you see jewellery on others what do you notice first? My eye often get drawed to the necklace or earrings as that is easiest to see frst. Then I look if the design suits the person and outfit since I am very interested in fashion and design. I see so much nice designs here in London because there is so many different styles and there is so much to see. London is a big city so it always has a lot to offer. What jewellery that you is your absolute favorite and why? Oh that must be my buddha necklace because I wear it so often and has been with me through times and always a good item to wear. I also think that it works well with my fashion style and therefor wear it so much. I have one other favorite item and that is because it really means a lot to me, but I dont wear it that often. It is some really old vintage earrings I got from my grandmother and means so much to me since she cared so much about them and has told stories from when she got them. Which she got from her husband during the second world war, and that makes it truly special since it has gone through a time like that and survived in our family. What would you like to see on the market that you might not see right now? Well I do love silver and are looking for some jewellery that is extremely clean and minimalistic in silver of course. Like a necklace that is almost like a spike and hangs down with a long chain. And the same design in earrings. I have been looking for that for some years but not found the excact design that I am looking for. Have you given jewellery to others as a gift? Yes I have given it many times for special ccations since I think jewellery is something really long lasting and meaningful, which makes a nice gift. I have given it to my family for christmas and to earlier boyfriends. I remember I gave a ring to my ex-boyfriend that he really liked so much. It was a designer ring that I knew he had looked at online but not ordered. He was jumping up and down when I gave it to him. He was very happy. Do you think its hard to select jewellery for others? Depending a lot on who you give it to. Like if I was going to buy something for the older generation and a man I think it woulld be harder to know since they where more macho men and did not wear jewellery that much. But for especially womans I find it easier because you can relate more to what girls like. What would you like to see more of in the jewellery business in the future? Better quality in the more mainstream shops, good quality should be the top priority. That it was more focused on the material as well. Maybe less plastic and harmful materials to the world. But maybe that never will change.
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Linnea standing outside Chic Freak shop where she is the assistant manager in Portobello Road. A very fashionable street in Notting Hill district of the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea in west London.
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part four: mouth
random meetings: mouth

london
Chin piercing is a type of facial piercing that pierces the skin below the bottom lip through to the lower chin area. It is a surface piercing, meaning that the entrance and exit sites are pierced through the same flat surface of the skin; unlike a labret piercing, which enters into the mouth area, a chin piercings exit hole is set below the chin and does not pass into the mouth. Jewelry for these piercings commonly include studs, surface barbells and curved barbells. Chin piercings can either be placed vertically or horizontally. Vertical piercings often are more popular because they typically heal more rapidly than horizontal piercings. Either type of piercing
can result in infection, however; it is important to follow instructions to keep the piercing clean, and if any signs of infection occur, a visit to a doctor may be required. Allergic reactions also may occur, so any known allergy issues should be reported before piercing. Though it does not go through the mouth, a surface piercing such as this can still pick up germs on its way through your facial flesh. Soon after chin piercing, some slight bruising or redness may occur; this is a typical side effect of piercing. If the bruising and redness worsens, a visit to a doctor to test for infection may be wise. Like other piercings, a chin piercing requires care in order to heal properly and
quickly. Using a sea salt and water mixture to cleanse the open wounds made by the jewelry may effectively clean and sterilize the area. Soaking jewelry at least once a week in either sea salt and water or in a product recommended by the piercer also can help prevent infection. As with any other body piercing, a chin piercing can cause a high level of pain. Those who opt to have a double chin piercing should be prepared, however, as two of these painful piercings at the same time can add extra stress the body. Two chin piercings at once typically are evenly spaced on the chin next to each other, and generally take a longer time to heal than a single piercing.
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The popularity of labret piercings is easy to see and their subtle appearance and many choices has already made them extreme popular. Many assume that a labret piercing must be central but many get labret piercings towards one side of the face, creating an entirely difference effect with their facial piercing. On the left is one of the most common piercerings.
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why do you wear this jewellery? Expression of interest in its look on me. do you want to send a signal with the jewellery, and if yes, what? Not sure. Vanity. Look at my style. Where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? Istanbul, India and Camden Market. do you know anyone that has the same jewellery as you? and if yes what do you think about that? My father has the same ring. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? Powerful! Where do you usually get
your jewellery form? Anywhere if I see something by chance. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I prefer that is made of silver as I find that cooler than gold. what is most important for you in jewellery? That is for male. I care about the signal it sends in that way, I want to use jewellery that suits men better than woman to send that signal. what types of jewellery do you use and why? My ring and necklace because I love them. It suits my style and amplifier my style in a way that I want it to. why do you wear this jewellery? Expression of interest in its look on me. do you want to send a signal with the jewellery, and if yes, what? Not sure. Vanity. Look at my style. Where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? Istanbul, India and Camden Market. do you know anyone that has the same jewellery as you? and if yes what do you think about that? My father has the same ring. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? Powerful! Where do you usually get your jewellery form? Anywhere if I see something by chance. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I prefer that is made of silver as I find that cooler than gold. what is most important for you in jewellery? That is for male. I care about the signal it sends in that way, I want to use jewellery that suits men better than woman to send that signal. what types of jewellery do you use and why? Always my chin piercing.
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how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be so extreme and with a lot more new places and ways to take them. do you care about the material the jewellery is made of? I sometimes get a skin reaction on some materials, but otherwise than that no. where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? This earrings I got from different places, the top one is fro a piercing studio in America. The small one is from London, and the black rose was a gift from my boyfriend. do why do you wear this jewellery? Expression of interest in its look on me. do you want to send a signal with the jewellery, and if yes, what? Not sure. Vanity. Look at my style. Where did you get the jewellery you are wearing now? Istanbul, India and Camden Market. do you know anyone that has the same jewellery as you? and if yes what do you think about that? My father has the same ring. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? Powerful! Where do you usually get your jewellery form? Anywhere if I see something by chance. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? I prefer that is made of silver as I find that cooler than gold. what is most important for you in jewellery? That is for male. I care about the signal it sends in that way, I want to use jewellery that suits men better than woman to send that signal. what types of jewellery do you not like. Very bing-bling type of jewellery.
you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you? and if yes, what does that make you feel? No not these pieces in my ear. And that makes me feel more unique or special I guess. It is always nice to stand out with some jewellery or clothes. what do you feel when wearing this jewellery? I feel more special than if I did not wear them. But that might be because of I have used for suck a long time now that when I take it off it feels like something is missing.
16 iselin flem 23, bow chirch 17 michael moorse 35, brick lane
18 alexandra jefferson 26, dalston 19 christopher moss 32, earls court
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how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot more simple than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery. That is actually size! I look after cool pices thathas a certin size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool with-
out me having to put so much efford into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Maybe, gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot simpler than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery? That is actually size! I look after cool pieces that have a certain size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool without me having to put so much effort into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? No I just use whatever I like the most.
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how do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot more simple than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery. That is actually size! I look after cool pices thathas a certin size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool withhow do you think future jewellery will be? I think it will be a lot more simple than it is today. what is the most important for you in jewellery. That is actually size! I look after cool pices thathas a certin size to them. what type of jewellery do you use the most and why? I use mostly simple jewellery but it is depending on the colour also. why do you wear this earpiece? I like this pair of piercings, I think it stands out and looks cool without me having to put so much efford into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. do you care about what the jewellery is made of? Maybe, gold is nice but depends on the material. If it is good quality that is
out me having to put so much efford into it. I am already ready dressed-up. do you know anyone else with the same jewellery as you wear now? Yes I do, but I dont care about that. It looks really good on her. what do you feel when you wear jewellery? I dont feel anything special about it. So I would say nothing. what jewellery do you not like? I like everything and feel I am good at putting items together with my style and outfit.
20 henry micheal 40, gatwick 21 steffany saunders 17, bath
22 john moss 35, dalston 23 becky foster 23, notthing hill
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inside the shop

There are a lot of different raw materials that can be used to make body jewelry. They come in a wide variety of substances such as metals, glass, plastics and organics. Some materials even come in different grades and qualities. When putting something on or through your skin, a subject of decoration also brings about the subject of health and safety. Some materials are more conducive to healing a new piercing, while others are only recommended for well-established piercings or short-term wear. Its important that you familiarize yourself with the choices you have before you purchase body jewelry, as they are not all alike. METALSThe safety or allergen risk of metal jewelry is largely determined by the amount of nickel it contains. Nickel is a metallic element that is not bio-compatible and causes a lot of healing difficulty and hyper-sensitivity issues when it is used in piercing jewelry metals. Bottom line when it comes to body jewelry the lower the metal quality, the higher risk of difficulties. Costume Piercing JewelryMany people cant wear costume jewelry at all because of the high nickel content. Even nickel-free jewelry made for sensitive ears is not high quality metal and not recommended for new piercings or long-term wear. Some costume jewelry has even been found to contain lead. Simply put, cheap jewelry is not a good idea. Sterling SilverSterling silver is only .925% silver and contains other metals that can cause irritation. It also oxidizes (tarnishes) when it comes in contact with air and body fluids. The fact that silver is soft increases the risk of small non-visible nicks and scratches in the metal that can become a harbor for bacterial growth. Sterling silver is recommended for well-established earlobe piercings only, and short-term wear. Silver-plated jewelry is not recommended at all. GoldSimilar to silver, gold is soft and can have imperfections that can breed bacteria. Higher grades of gold (such as 24K), which are considered better because they contain less nickel, are actually softer and become a higher risk when worn in piercings. Solid gold is only recommended for well-healed piercings and for those that have a history of being able to wear gold without irritation. Gold plated, however, is not recommended. Surgical Stainless Steel (SSS)316L or 316LVM are the only acceptable grades of stainless steel for the use of body jewelry. 316L is implant-grade surgical stainless steel it is probably the most common and most widely used metal for body piercings. 316LVM is the same as 316L, but has the added advantage of having been melted in a vacuum. That means it has a virtually flawless finish and less chance of even minor alloy inclusions, which can irritate the wearer. It should be noted, however, that even SSS does contain enough nickel to cause problems for someone very sensitive to it. Many European countries have banned the use of SSS for new piercings because of the high rate of allergic reactions. If youre wearing SSS jewelry and are having problems with irritation or a new piercing that just wont heal, it is possible that you have a very low tolerance of nickel and might want to try niobium or titanium. Niobium The next step up from 316L SSS. Its a little heavier than SSS and also stronger. The price tag is also slightly heftier, but a happy medium between SSS and titanium for
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many. Niobium body jewelry is usually anodized (dipped in a chemical electrolyte and then exposed to an electrical current, which creates an array of colors depending on voltage and light refraction) Niobium is non-reactive and most people can wear it in new or healed piercings with no sensitivity issues. Titanium The hardest and highest grade of metal with virtually no presence of nickel (less than .05%). The strength of the metal makes it practically impervious to scratches and imperfections. Titanium is also the most expensive metal used for body jewelry, but is certainly worth the price for someone who is hyper-sensitive to nickel-containing metals and cant wear anything else. Titanium can also be anodized and comes in a wide variety of colors. Low-Quality Novelty Body Jewelry Please beware of novelty shops and costume jewelry shops selling so-called body jewelry. Even if they have the best intentions, these store owners are not body piercing experts and many times purchase low-grade jewelry because they are popular and a quick-sell. Some of them might even claim to be 316L steel, but these items are often mass-produced by machines, not inspected for imperfections and potentially harmful. There is a reason these jewelry items are so inexpensive high quality body jewelry costs more because better materials and quality workmanship are used to produce them. Dont be fooled by imitators or lower prices its just not worth it to end up with an infected piercing because of it. Just about any body jewelry store you visit, online or off, you are going to find body jewelry made of different kinds of glass and plastics. Its important for you to know, though, that not all glass is equal and not all plastics are alike. And not all are suitable for use in body jewelry or they may only be appropriate for short-term wear. Determining which is which can be difficult, which is why starting with a trustworthy retailer is your first responsibility. Choosing your jewelry is the next, so here is some information about glass and plastic body jewelry. GLASS Glass jewelry is available under popular trademarks such as Pyrex and Kimax or can also be referred to as borosilicate glass. There are many other types of glass, but these are the only types suitable for body jewelry. They are tempered, medical-grade, non-porous and lead-free. Some suppliers also make jewelry under the names of Millicane or Dichroic glass these terms refer to the colors inside the glass. These colors are created sometimes with metal alloys and other non-safe materials, so body jewelry made with these materials should be encased in a layer of Pyrex or Kimax glass to prevent exposure to unsafe elements. Glass jewelry, although non-toxic and basically bio-compatible, should not be used for a fresh piercing or during stretching, but only on well-healed piercings. Also, keep in mind that glass is heavy, so the larger the piece of jewelry, the more strain it will cause on your piercing. Very large plugs or talons can cause involuntary stretching and then create healing problems. PLASTICSPlastics come in many forms and under many dif-
ferent names Acrylic, Nylon, Teflon (PTFE), Silicone, Polymer, Lucite, Resin, Polyamide and Polyester. Acrylic is probably the most well-known plastic, and there is a lot of acrylic body jewelry or accessories available. Its inexpensive, versatile, lightweight and comes in a variety of colors. The problem with acrylic is that its not autoclavable, which is the only truly safe way to sterilize body jewelry of any kind. It also degrades if it comes in contact with alcohol, so keeping a piece of acrylic jewelry clean is a challenge. It also shatters under pressure, so things like biting down on your tongue barbell can be a real problem if youve got an acrylic ball on the end. Acrylic jewelry can suffocate a piercing that needs to breathe, and the end result can be redness, soreness, seeping and a bad odor. Although widely available, acrylic really is not recommended for piercings. If you must wear it, it should only be worn short-term and only in a well-healed piercing. A couple of things that should be noted: The FDA has approved some grades of acrylic, but that doesnt necessarily mean they are 100% safe for long-term use or are completely innocuous. Use common sense when dealing with any new piece of body jewelry if it starts giving you problems, take it out. Glow-in-the-dark acrylic is a plastic that has a naturally occurring glow that is caused by carcinogens. This type of acrylic is not deemed safe for any kind of body jewelry. However, UV-reflective and blacklight-reactive acrylic jewelry is considered safe as they do not contain any harmful chemicals. Lucite, Polymer, Monofilament Polyamide and Resin are all similar materials to acrylic and carry the same risks. A lot of retainer jewelry is created with these products, which are generally for short-term wear anyway. Nylon & TeflonMonofilament Nylon and Teflon (PTFE) are favored over acrylic because they are autoclavable and flexible. These plastics are sometimes an option for someone with a severe sensitivity to all metal jewelry, and have also been successful for surface piercings and implants with lower rejection rates. However, not all piercers are experienced in using these materials since they are more challenging when it comes to inserting and threading. You would need to discuss the availability and options of using Nylon or PTFE for a new piercing with your piercer, but replacement jewelry and accessories are widely available. Rubber & Silicone Rubber and silicone are very similar products in that they are basically a plastic that is pliable and stretchable. They are acceptable for accessories, but not highly recommended for piercings, especially unhealed ones. There are now flesh tunnels available in silicone and while the material is bio-compatible, it comes with another set of risks. One is that silicone has the ability to auto-stretch, which can potentially cause tearing or over-stretching of the hole. Another is that because of the pliability of the material, it tends to cause a seal against the skin and could allow a build-up of seepage which could eventually lead to severe infection. If you
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use any of these products, its imperative that you keep the area clean and dry at all times. The dictionary defines the word organic to mean objects that are of, relating to, or derived from living organisms. Body jewelry that fits under this term would include wood, bone, horn and ivory. It also tends to include rock/stone, even though it doesnt technically qualify under the definition. Each of these materials can come in many different varieties, but the primary connection is that they all come naturally from the earth. Almost all jewelry made from these materials will come in the form of plugs, earlets, eyelets or claws jewelry that is designed for stretched piercing holes, usually the ear lobes. WoodBody jewelry made of wood has great versatility. It is lightweight, so even a largely stretched piercing can be accommodated without discomfort. Wood comes in a variety of colors and hardness, depending on the source, which can be anything from the reedy bamboo to the rock-solid ebony.
There are, however, some cautions that should be taken regarding body jewelry made of wood. Although most raw woods are relatively safe, there are some that could be considered toxic when brought into contact with the skin, especially for a duration. Also, dyes and other chemicals are sometimes added to wood to enhance their natural beauty, but these can cause irritation of the skin known as contact dermatitis. The severity of the reaction to these toxins vary from person to person, but the best thing you can do is avoid them altogether. Make sure that your organic body jewelry supplier is well versed on the subject and guarantees their product to be safe. For more information on the types of wood considered toxic, see A Guide to Hardwoods for the Piercing Community. Wood is also not recommended for long-term wear, cannot be autoclave sterilized, and is not recommended for new or unhealed piercings. Dont allow wood jewelry to get saturated or over-heated (remove jewelry before swimming, bathing, or
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entering a sauna), but it can be safely cleaned with mild liquid anti-bacterial soap and a small amount of water, providing that it is dried immediately. Then it can be lightly treated once a week with jojoba or olive oil to prevent cracking. Tea tree oil can also be used for cleaning and to add sheen. BoneAlthough they consist of different substances, bone and horn body jewelry can be treated essentially the same. They are semi-hard, porous, and can be carved into different shapes for a variety of body jewelry uses. Most bone jewelry will come from cow bones, and most horn jewelry comes from buffalo, although there are always exceptions to every rule and you
need to be sure what you are purchasing. Bone and horn are relatively lightweight, come in natural shades of white to black, and can be carved into different shapes. Bone and horn are fragile and can shard when broken, so care should be taken not to allow them to be exposed to extreme pressure. They are not autoclavable, but can be carefully washed with mild antibacterial soap and a small amount of water and then treated once a month with jojoba, coconut or olive oil. They are not recommended for new or unhealed piercings, should not be worn long-term or during swimming, bathing or sleeping.
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Ivory (Tusk)When most of us think of ivory, our minds usually go immediately to elephant tusk, which is illegal. However, there are some forms of ivory that are not illegal and can be used to create body jewelry. Walrus tusk is one such example, as well as Mammoth and Mastodon. (Learn about the different types of ivory.) Despite its legality, ivory still remains controversial and is a personal decision each person must make regarding its purchase. Ivory, like bone and horn, cannot be autoclaved sterilized. If it is allowed to get dried out, it can get cracks that can encourage bacterial growth. It should not be saturated or exposed to high heat and humidity. It can, however, be cleaned periodically with mild antibacterial soap and a small amount of water, dried immediately, and then treated with jojoba, coconut or olive oil. These treatments are recommended once a month. Ivory is not recommended for new or unhealed piercings and should only be worn short-term or for special occasions.
Rock/StoneRock or semi-precious stone is also used to create beautiful body jewelry. Its heavy, and usually wont come in very large sizes. The weight can also cause the jewelry to fall out unexpectedly. Its more durable than other organic materials, but can still break if dropped or treated roughly. Despite its smooth surface and solid texture, stone still cannot be autoclave sterilized and needs to be cleaned with mild antibacterial soap and water. Stone jewelry is not recommended for new or unhealed piercings and should only be worn for short periods of time. With these tips and helpful advices it will be a lot easier to fiigure out what you want to do. The only things is that when you take piercerings is that you have to be as sure on your choice as possible. Usally later if you think of removing the jewellery, it leaves a visable hole. Like for me I have a couple holes under my lip on the chin after my piercings when I was younger. It still shows a bit but not to much, only if you check if it is there.
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different materials
london
As the years goes by the need for new inspiration in jewellery, and people start ingto to experiment with new materials. And this has given new jewellery designers so much more surfaces to work with. Earlier it was the material that decided what kind of jeweller you where. In creating jewellery, gemstones, coins, or other precious items are often used, and they are typically set into precious metals. Alloys of nearly every metal known have been encountered in jewellery. Bronze, for example, was common in Roman times. Modern fine jewellery usually includes gold, white gold, platinum, palladium, titanium, or silver. Hemp and other twines have been used as well to
create jewellery that has more of a natural feel. However, any inclusion of lead or lead solder will cause an English Assay office (building which gives English jewellery stamp of approval, the Hallmark) to destroy the piece. Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass, gemstones, metal, wood, shells, and clay and polymer clay. Beading, or beadwork, is also very popular in many African and indigenous North American cultures. Advanced glass and glass beadmaking techniques by Murano and Venetian glassmasters developed crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (goldstone), multicoloured glass (millefiori), milk-
glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made of glass. The adoption of plastics and rubber to artist jewellers repertoire of materials in the late 1960s marks a significant change. Since this time the physical and conceptual possibilities of plastics have fuelled and enabled developments in this artistic field. Since the early 1970s museums and private collections have continually acquired artist jewellery created from plastic. Some of these artworks are now exhibiting change or deterioration. Discussion and debate regarding their preservation is a pressing need. But almost no published work or debate has addressed the artist jewellery specifically.
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Five porcelain jewellery pieces: Nose, Eye, Lips, Finger and Ear by Simona Kaunaite. On the right is the nose piece.
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Rachel Darbourne approach combines elements of both jewellery and textiles, creating highly wearable jewellery pieces. She use both pre and post recycled materials in a unique way. Here in plastic. Flower Necklace made of rubber and makes it super unique. Designed by Rubber Jewellery.
Popular designer Bjrg uses a lot of diffrent materials, here with horsehair. New Wave Short Earpiece with yellow horsehair and silver.
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Necklace with Small Wide Ring made of rose gold-plated silver designed by Eleni Antoni.
Creative combinations by fine jewellery designer, Lauren Adrian. Siren Earrings in gold, silver, amethyst, rhodolite and diamonds.
Unusual materials here used by designer Kirsten Sonne, made by with cable ties. Giving it the simple name Cable Necklace.
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Tatty Devine is a british business founded by the designers Harriet Vine and Rosie Wolfenden. They have two stores, in Brick Lane and Monmouth Street in Londons East End (see picture before and left). They specialize in acrylic jewellery.
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the jewellery student

On my different paths here in London on my search to see how the people that lives here are working with what they love and how they express them self differently in the city. I met a lovely girl there, Jekaterina Atarinova, a student that studies at the Jewellery line at London Metropolitan University located in East London. It is Wednesday and the weather is a bit ruff, it is cold and grey. It feels like the summer never is coming. But as I meet the students at the University for their catwalk/ exhibition out in the streets of Brick Lane i notice that the weather opens up a bit and let the light come in. There is a great atmosphere amongst the students and they are helping each other with the last finishes before the catwalk starts. I plan to talk with Jekaterina after they have had the walk and goes outside, as they are about to start. The models come out from the door opening wearing paint and clothes matching the theme Jungle City. They come out on a straight line with their jewellery pieces shining on them. From ear cuffs, metallic threads, classic rings to experimental show pieces. It looks so interesting and we tag along to Brick Lane, as they will have the last catwalk. They finish the catwalk with applaud and heads back to the University. I am sitting left with an inspired and fun experience and there was some really good designers presenting their work. Jekaterina Atarinova is a second year student of the Sir John Cass Faculty of Art, Architecture and Design, BA Jewellery&Silversmithing. Her current body of work is focused on modification of the wearers body giving a positive change that provides an emotional improvement or a negative change, which makes them, feel less comfortable, constrained in movement and unconfident depending on the piece being worn. Her strength is drawing and it helps her to create designs of the 3D pieces, which in comparison to her highly detailed drawings are very minimalistic. The work is informed by her personal taste in fashion and jewellery. She prefers to work with metals but will also experiment with different materials for the intrinsic qualities. The idea of creating something completely new and not repeating what already exist excites her. Jekaterinas aim is to generate designs that will change the peoples ideas of jewellery, exploring beauty in an alternative way. Well rested and finished with everything we start the interview. Thank you for taking the time to meet me, as I know you is with the last weeks at University and probably has a lot to do. First I want to ask you why did you want to study jewellery making? Im the third generation of jewellers in my family, my grandfather, my dad and my uncle always inspired me. What do you think about studying this? Getting degree in Jewellery and Silversmithing is 10% of making skills and 90% of creative ideas, meaning behind and design development. What are the biggest challenges on the way? The biggest challenge is to show design development process to make it clear for viewer and to express your own thoughts and feelings in the right way. When will you be finished with youre education? In 2014. What materials do you use? I mainly work with silver and I make all my pieces from scrap, getting through all the stages of recycling. Will you continue to use this or what is the future for youre jewellery? Im in a hope of starting to use gold too, but it is just a matter of time and finance, because technically
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gold is much easier to work with. What is your inspiration? My inspiration is a human body, the beauty of human nature, body modifications and transformations. What is it with jewellery that attracts you? It attracts attention to the wearer and helps to express identity. What is your collection about? These rings were made as a part of a Body Modification project. The inspiration came from surgical and medical equipment, particularly from the removable devices used to immobilize the injured limb. These rings are ment to restrict the movement of the wearer. Who will be your buyers? Do you have a target audience? I think my potential customer is young and creative female who likes to stand out from the crowd. As a jewellery design student, do you have any tips for others in same
position? Yes, to create what you believe in, even if everyone else thinks that it will never work, because it definitely wills if you will take pains. What has helpt you on the way to reach your goals? Practice and learning from my own mistakes, 4-6 hours every day in the workshop, making lots of test pieces and being inspired of course. Tell me a memory you have that involves jewellery. Ive been watching the process of jewellery making for my whole life day by day, so all my memories more or less includes jewellery. What is jewellery for you? To me jewellery is something I prefer to make instead of wearing. I only wear a pair of earrings and one ring that i got from my grandfather when I was 11 years old. But I have lots of jewellery in my head instead. Where do you get your own
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jewellery? As Ive mentioned before I dont really wear jewellery. What is most important for you in jewellery? I believe that jewellery has to be interesting, functional or playful and to be attractive both: being on the body or lying on the tabletop. What signals/expression are you sending with your jewellery design? I always try to put the idea behind for each of my pieces as my own body or human bodies around me inspire all of them. What type of jewellery do you use most and why? Where do you sell your jewellery or want to sell them later? I sell my jewellery at markets, currently lots of my pieces are
on display in Brighton, and also I find people interested in my work via my blog and social networks. Thank you for the interview, it has very interesting hearing about youre jewellery world as a student and upcoming designer. I wish you the best of luck on youre further journey. I walk home and think about the catwalk, exhibition and about the education of Jekatarina and understands a bit more of how the process is working. One thing is for sure and that is that it takes a lot of hard work and tenacity to accomplish what we just want to bring in the jewellery world.
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part one: ear

laurence king publishing

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random meetings: ear

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3 christina bidwell 19, crawly 4 raquel cardela 22, brick lane

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part two: nose

random meetings: nose

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9 helen grunning 21, brick lane 10 adam jackson 34, camden

11 christina bidwell 19, crawly 12 mchela grachos 23, athens

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13 jenna mitchell 34, camden 14 joseph bidwell 24, bow

15 staffany jackson 27, hacney 16 jessica hasoff 18, portobello

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part five: materials

the most important

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part three: necklace

part three: necklace

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