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appliqu basics

Appliqu is a fun way to add a little extra pizzazz to a sewing project or to update an existing garment or home dcor item. To get 3 used you started, here are a few commonly techniques for preparing and attaching appliqu.

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Raw-Edge Method
This appliqu method is quick and easy, resulting in a rawedge finish. Its great for creating an organic and slightly frayed look with woven fabrics. Its also a great method to use with felt, faux suede, and similar fabrics that dont fray at cut edges. You will need: Paper-backed fusible web (if the project calls for it or  youd like to use it) Pins or basting glue (if youre not using fusible web)  Craft/paper scissors Fabric shears Embroidery scissors Pencil Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp  Coordinating thread or embroidery floss (for handsewing)  or coordinating thread for machine sewing Thimble (optional) Remember that any time youre transferring a template to the wrong side of the fabric (or onto the paper side of the fusible web) the final appliqu will be the reverse of the traced appliqu. Trace the template onto the paper side of the paper-backed fusible web (or trace the template onto the wrong side of the fabric or as directed by the project instructions). Rough cut the shape from the fusible web, leaving a margin of about " (6 mm) around the shape (if youre not using fusible web, simply cut the shape along the drawn lines). Following manufacturers instructions, adhere the fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric and let it cool. Then, cut the shape along the drawn lines. Remove the paper backing and place the shape, right side up, onto the background fabric. Adhere the shape to the background fabric as before (if youre not using fusible web, use pins or basting glue to secure the shape in place on the background fabric).
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Stitch the shape in place around the edges, using a machine stitch, such as a straight stitch, zigzag, blanket stitch, satin stitch, or other decorative stitch (refer to your sewing machine manual for assistance). Alternatively, sew the appliqu in place using your favorite hand embroidery stitch, such as a blanket stitch, running stitch, or backstitch.

Freezer-Paper (or Template-Plastic) and Starch Method

This method creates a neat turned-under edge for the appliqu. The starch gives a crisp edge that stays in place as you stitch the appliqu to the background fabric. You will need: Freezer-paper (or heat-resistant template plastic)  Craft/paper scissors Fabric shears Embroidery scissors Spray starch Small paintbrush Fabric-marking pen or tailors chalk  Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp  Lightweight cotton or silk thread  Thimble (optional)

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appliqu basics
Layer two pieces of freezer paper, with the shiny side of one piece facing the paper side of the second piece; press together with a hot dry iron. Trace your templates onto the paper side of the freezer paper; if you have multiple shapes, leave at least " (6 mm) between each. (If youre using template plastic, simply trace the shapes onto the plastic with a permanent marker.) Cut out each shape along the traced lines with your craft/paper scissors. Press the shiny side of the freezer paper template to the wrong side of the chosen fabric, leaving at least " (1.3 cm) between shapes. (If youre using template plastic, use a fabric marking pen or tailors chalk to trace the template onto the wrong side of the fabric.) Cut out each shape, leaving scant " (6 mm) seam allowances around each (figure 1). (If youre using template plastic, place the template onto the wrong side of the cut shape, centering it to leave the " [6 mm] seam allowances free.) Using the embroidery scissors, clip into the seam allowance at any concave curves and points (clipping almost to the template or drawn lines; figure 2). You may also clip the convex curves if it will make it easier for you to fold under the seam allowance neatly. Spray a small amount of starch into the cap from the starch can. Use the paintbrush or a finger to brush starch onto the seam allowance, moistening the fabric but not the freezer paper. Press the seam allowances over the freezer paper (or template plastic), using the tip of the iron to wrap the seam allowances closely around the template and pressing until the starch is dry and the seam allowances are secure (figure 3). When pressing around convex curves, form small pleats in the fabric with the iron as you press around the template to make a smooth curve. If the edges arent smooth, simply remoisten the seam allowances with starch, reshape, and press. To press points neatly, press the point first, then press the fabric on either side over it. When the fabric has cooled, remove the template (peel the freezer paper gently from the fabric), and press again to set the shape (figure 4). The paper template has enough wax to be used more than once. Youre ready to stitch the appliqu. Use the standard hand-appliqu stitch for a neat, nearly invisible finish. Note that where appliqus overlap, the lower piece does not need to be sewn.

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You will need: Pins or basting glue  Fabric marking pen or tailors chalk  Fabric shears Embroidery scissors Handsewing needle, size 11 or 12 Sharp  Lightweight cotton or silk thread  Thimble (optional) Trace the template onto the right side of the chosen fabric, using a fabric marking pen or tailors chalk. Cut out the shape a scant " (6 mm) from the traced line. Using the embroidery scissors, clip into the seam allowance at any concave curves and points (you may also clip the convex curves if doing so will make it easier for you to fold under the seam allowance neatly; figure 5). Pin or glue-baste the appliqu to the background fabric, overlapping pieces as necessary or directed. (To gluebaste, use small dots of glue on the wrong side of the appliqu, about " [6 mm] from the drawn line, to secure the appliqu to the background fabric.) Use the standard hand-appliqu stitch for a neat, nearly invisible finish. As you sew, use the needle to sweep under the seam allowance just ahead of your stitching (figure 6). Make sure the traced line isnt visible. Note that where appliqus overlap, the lower piece does not need to be sewn or turned under.

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Needle-Turn Method
Requiring minimal preparation for a turned-under edge, this method starts with the appliqu edges left raw. You then turn the edges under as you stitch the appliqu in place.

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