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issue 2012

Julius and Kuba wear hooded longsleeves, jackets and pants, all by Juun.J www.juunj.com

riding the limousine p.1 9


Peter Jensen
chasing the bunny P. 2 4

Augustin Teboul, Designer for Tomorrow, Kaviar Gauche, Rebekka Rutz, Sopopular & Vladimir Karaleev P. 2 5

fashion week berlin daily


Fashion Week Berlin Daily

Interstate Afterglow

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You may like to surround yourself with people with whom you have something in common ideas, values, tastes. Ideally it makes you feel safe, understood and accepted as a person. Or you choose not to. You decide to make your way through life in a darkened limousine on a parallel highway. But then you miss out on something: interaction. And its by sharing ideas, joining forces that bright moments are generated that will linger on your mind like an afterimage of well, a photo shoot, maybe. Welcome to our Interstate Afterglow issue. So, no matter whether you prefer jamming into a crowded MBFW shuttle or a lonesome rickshaw ride get off the street for a little stop. And catch up with someone. Or join us for now and our 28-page printed roadhouse. We hope our thoughts and images will illuminate your world for a little while.


Inga Marie

Inga whose full name is Inga Marie Heidi Tekukwitha Ruxton has internalized that ability to keep calm which is a models most important strength. Her shimmering make-up teased some Neuklln fellas, who cruised back and forth around the shooting location to get a glimpse of her. She kept her countenance shes a real pro, bro!

C l a u d i a S c h i b l i - Grosdidier
Claudia has been a member of the DERZEIT family since day one. This is partly due to family ties, but also because her heart is rooted in this project even though she lives far away in France. Being a brilliant and swift translator and a conference interpreter (sometimes in Jamaica!), we should all say that we couldnt do it without you, Claudia! Thanks a lot.

Julius & Kuba

www.thespecial.org ( Julius) www.therightstuffmanagement.com (Kuba)

This issues models came to Berlin from quite different places: Kuba from his hometown in Poland, whilst Julius flew in from arty Barcelona. However, both of them met with DERZEIT and traveled way down to the south of Germany to attend the countrys biggest trucker meeting. Now we know that they have more in common than previously thought:They are both really good at Stadtlandfluss. And as you will see on page 17, when it comes to posing in front of extraordinary trucks at dawn, theyre not bad at that either.

Mareike N ieberding
Luckily for us, Mareike is still in Berlin; she hasnt yet gone holidaying in Moscow or to journalism school in Munich. For the time being, shes part of the catwalk reporting team at DERZEIT, and for this issue she talked to Peter Jensen about fun and functionality. Mareike: keep on reading, writing, talking and walking just not too far away from here, ok?


Fashion Week Berlin Daily

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at Kaviar Gauche & Dawid Tomaszewski by


DER Z EIT M a s t h e a d
DERZEIT is published by Alice Kuhn & Manuel Schibli

creative direction Manuel Schibli design & production Alice Kuhn graphic design Dominik Bachmann Yassin Baggar Jessica Barthel fashion director Sebastiano Ragusa photography Patrick Houi, Jonas Lindstrm, Christoph Mack, Pia Denker, Thuy Pham, Amos Fricke, Stefan Milev daily photography Jessica Barthel, Fammi vedere, Rupert Tapper retouching Navina Hausmann type design Manuel Schibli Yassin Baggar event Sven Hausherr contributors Alice Connew, Bjrn & Tanja, Franziska Knig, Tom Strohmetz, Seiith John, Cecilia Bourgueil, Ewa, Nele Merlin Hagel, Juana Robles, Christoph Varga, Philipp Koch Verheyen

editor-in-chief Nina Trippel senior editor Sonja Stssel editors Sharon Welzel Tara Dominguez Celina Plag writers Mareike Nieberding, Malgorzata Stankiewicz, James Castle, Anne Postrach, Megan Gannon, Malaka Gharib, Joachim Bessing, Viviane Stappmanns editorial assistance Alexander La Guma, Leanne McClean copy editors Tara Dominguez, Megan Gannon, Rei Matsuoka translation Cathy Lara, Lucy Powell, Claudia Schibli-Grosdidier special thanks to Agrarhandel & Spedition M. Lauth, Alix Eickhorst Brunner Transporte, Manfred Strohofer, Hyper, Jule & her animal kingdom, Martin Behnke, Vasco & Flurin, Seelotsen Travemde

DERZEIT is proudly printed by Berliner Zeitungsdruck


Fashion Week Berlin Daily

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Fashion Week Berlin Daily

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inner odyssey

EXHIBITION Within all possible identities Bourouina Gallery Charlottenstr. 12 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg TueSat / 1118h open to public www.bourouina.com

eclectic collective
If youre a charismatic man whos more peacock than wallflower, look up Starstylings new mens range launching this week in Collect Showroom. The Berlin label, known for its neon and metallic screenprints on unique casual wear, turns its attention to men this season. Expect wide cut shorts, sweaters and hoodies, or classic-cut trousers in black and white for more conservative dressers. Check out Raphael Haubers striking and vibrant new collection, featuring overwhelming all-over prints. Both brands are featured alongside 13 independent labels at Collect Showroom, a separate event within biannual fashion tradeshow (capsule), staged at new venue Postbahnof. This time around, designer and illustrator Thilo Kasper (aka kindly Kasper) has spruced up Collect Showrooms exhibition space we hear its an explosion of summery pastel colors. MG
TRAD ES HOW Collect Showroom at (Capsule) Berlin / Postbahnhof / Strae der Pariser Kommune 8 / 10243 Berlin-Friedrichshain / July 5th / 1019h July 6th/ 1018h / for professionals only! www.capsuleshow.com

Heading to Kreuzberg you wont only find the latest trends, but artists and fashion designers exploring the inner self. Amel Bourouina invited Mads Dinesen who in turn asked artists to contribute works on the topic of identity shifts. So heading there could become a surreal trip

MASKS, 2010 by Mali Lazell & Mads Dinesen

Watch out, politics are getting in on it as well. At the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, our neighboring country shows us that the Dutch also know something about fashion. This will be the first time that 15 Dutch designers at once are presented during fashion week. Its the party of the day and the ambassador is inviting you for free drinks. After a beer or two, it might be time to decide who rules the fashion world. ALG

old but gold

Design made of old or discarded material, leftovers, broken or imperfect fabrics is usually called recycling. Though designers now prefer the term upcycling indicating that the product is worth much more than just old stuff in a new shape.Ten Austrian designers are introducing their sustainable ideas at the Austrian Upcycling Popup Store and will also present them in a fashion show. Hopefully it will be a night of trash-turnedtrend rather than a trashion event since wed prefer to leave that for the next bad taste party. NT
P O P - UP S T O R E

dutch delegation
PARTY Dutch Touch celebration / Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands Klosterstr. 50 10179 Berlin-Mitte July 5th / 19.30h by invite only!


MOONDOGS, a/w 2012/2013 by Mads Dinesen / photos by Mali Lazell

Raphael Hauber S/S 13

through unknown territories. Read more on the Danish-born and Berlin-based designer Mads Dinesen in our Talents to Watch section tomorrow. ALG

thursday big time
B O O K L A UN C H Big Time. The Legendary Style of Mnner Vogue 19841989 / Edited by Beda Achermann and Karl Lagerfeld / Forth coming by Edition 7L / Steidl / Launch event at Andreas Murkudis Store Potsdamer Str. 81E / 10785 Berlin-Tiergarten July 5th / 1821h

SHOW Upcycling Fashion Store / Linienstr. 77 / 10119 BerlinKreuzberg / shop opening hours July 4th7th 1120h / open to public / Upcycling Fashion Show at Yes, we do! Watergate Falckensteinstr. 49 / 10997 Berlin-

photos by Blommers / Schumm

ceremonial sportswear
As mature as Munich sometimes seems to us, as far as fashion goes, it had a wild ride through the 80s. Loud and experimental, progressive, groundbreaking. And, for the time, already elitist. 19841989: Published for five years, Mnner Vogue paved the way for photographers like Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth and Michel Comte. It also attracted international attention with a new style that constantly influenced the aesthetics of other fashion magazines. It owed its iconic status to its almost legendary art director Beda Achermann, at the time the most important man onboard. With Big Time. The Legendary Style of Mnner Vogue 1984 1989, Achermann, together with Karl Lagerfeld, offers a retrospective of this brief but glorious time. CP Olympic games? Who cares. More importantly, make the street your arena, sports a fashion discipline and the future your issue Spring/Summer season 2013 to be precise. Global player adidas has yet again teamed up with New York-based fashion mover and shakers Opening Ceremony. So lace-up your sneakers (three-striped of course) walk over to N74 and get a sneak preview of this collaborative collection. NT

www.steidlville.com www.andreasmurkudis.com

P R E - V IE W Adidas Originals by Opening Ceremony SS13 Preview No74 / Torstr. 74 10119 Berlin-Mitte July 5th / 1720h by invite only! www.no74-berlin.com

communist switch stance

S C R EENIN G This Aint California / Bright Tradeshow Bright Movie Theater / Normannenstr. 19 10365 Berlin-Lichtenberg / July 5th / 16h by accreditation only! www.brighttradeshow.com

Carol & Huberto by Sebastian Kim

Kickflipping their way into the realm of Ostalgia, this fashion week the skate wear fanatics behind Bright Tradeshow are presenting a private preview of Martin Persiels documentary This Aint California. The film is about the small but radical groups of young East German skateboarders who shocked and awed passersby as they put all that Soviet concrete to good use. Combining incredible archival footage with reconstructions, This Aint California is less about politics than it is about the lives of teenagers at the end of an epoch. Witness a close-knit network of skaters, who shared a lifestyle and a culture across the Berlin Wall, and the creation of a very particular DIY aesthetic that offered a taste of freedom far greater than structured comforts of Communist life.TD


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Some thoughts on twosomes

I like things that come in double packs. Shoes for example very practical.Wouldnt life be complicated if you had to buy them separately? People who come in twosomes are also good. Twins definitely. Couples too sometimes at least. Well, definitely if they work in the design field. There is an incredible amount of them in this city and their numbers only keep growing. Its a good thing, because who would Issever be without Bahri? Perret without Schaad? Bergner sans Schmidt and Schmidt without Takahashi? Augustin without Teboul? Kaviar without Gauche, c. without neeon, so to speak? Its full steam ahead with a double shot of creative drive. And from this incredible fusion of two kindred spirits, by N i n a Trippel


breathtaking creations emerge. But I actually love them because fashion duos fit right in in Berlin, that is. I think Berlin should have exclusive rights to designer duos. Paris might be the city of couples, but why? Lets be honest, the city the on Seine is quite egocentric. Berlin, on the other hand, is twofold and ambivalent. Other cities also have fashion pairs, but to that I can only say: Proenza who? Viktor and who? And, here in Berlin, there are even designer duos who dont tell you so off the bat: Rita in Palma, Miroke, Anntian, Butterflysoulfire, to name just two two-by-twos times two.

Even Hannes Kettritz actually is a duo by the way. Well, the brand at least. And the pairs in Berlin just keep increasing. It cant be a coincidence. It must have something to do with this city. I think Berlin brings people together. Its probably written deep in the citys DNA. Berlin is simply the place where two parts that belong together unite. Critics might want to ask, whats with Boessert/Schorn? Well, Schorn is out of the picture. But thats probably because they initially met in Halle. And Raphael Hauber only came to Berlin after separating from Postweiler, Eva.Well, dear Juliaandben-turned-Julia-withoutBen give it a second thought. Breaking up hurts, but Berliners can tear down walls and make two parts fuse again. I mean, does anyone even know where the former East and West are? Clueless tourists in Neuklln sure dont. After hipster line U8 chauffeurs them from chic Mitte to crummy Neuklln, they still think theyre in the East because it looks a bit rundown. However Im already looking forward to the next creative pair matched in Berlin! Because it not only takes two to tango but sometimes also two to tailor.

Martin Niklas Wieser

talents to watch b y A NNE POSTRACH

Karla Black

some questions for

Karla B lack Schinkel Pavillon Oberwallstr. 1 10117 Berlin-Mitte Jun 22ndAug 5 TueSun 12-18h www.schinkel pavillon.de

I approach my work from a very formal, abstract point of view, based in concerns about material, color, composition and form, and the relation of those things to one another. I dont mind how other people want to approach the finished work. Im not particularly interested in traditional language-based meanings, metaphors or symbols. For me, art is about something else - something visual, something physical, something material. Feelings and experiences are what absorb me, not words. To me, language is a nuisance: an inadequate, primitive tool. You often work with titles that at first dont seem directly related to the sculpture (Expressions are hurting, move outside, Forget about Faces) what comes first, the title or the work? Language is always secondary. If the sculptures are a result of behavior, of a physical interaction with the material world, then perhaps the titles are reasons for or attempts to understand or name that behavior by the conscious mind, in words, albeit obliquely. If you were to make one piece for eternity what would that be? I would like to make a powder floor work that could stay in the room in which it was made forever. I wish that all the sculptures I make could stay in the place where I made them forever. Moving them around is very destructive.
For Another Purpose, 2012 Installation view, Schinkel Pavillon e. V., Berlin Photo by Nick Ash


at AM Modelmanagement

art direction & set design

fashion direction & styling



hair & make-up at nude

foundation & blush by GIORG IO ARMA NI BEAUTY Luminous Silk Foundation No.5 & Sheer Blush No.2 www.armanibeauty.de / eyeshadow by C LA RINS OMBRE MINRALE 4 COULEURS No.01 www.clarins.de / C L INI Q UE COLOR SURGE SOFT SHIMMER No. 401 Sugar Sugar www.clinique.de lipstick by CLINI QUE CHUBBY STICK MOISTURIZING LIP BALM Mega Melon No.4 / nailpolish by USL U A I R L INES DRS C03, BIV C03 & CMB C10 www.usluairlines.com / dress by M arti n N i klas Wiese r www.martinniklaswieser.com

If you google him, all you find are a few scanty facts about this designer with roots in Tyrol: that hes a recent graduate of the Weissensee School of Art, for example, and also with whom he has already worked: Tim Hamilton, __fabrics interseason and Bernhard Willhelm. If people search for Martin Niklas Wieser on the Internet, it doesnt bother him. There isnt much information out there yet. But thats changing right now: Ever since the German Press Days in Berlin in April,Wieser has been the talk of the town. People are extremely interested in his current womens and mens collection, but no one has had it on yet. Its strictly a presentation collection. It looks minimal, simple and raw from a distance, says Wieser.But the process of creating it from the cut to the material to the fit is complex. The designer also describes his fashion as very haptic. Its about working with the actual materials, which are usually Our talk with Martin raw with strong surfaces. His Niklas Wieser is available favorite items are dresses, one online at www.derze.it golden silk dress with lurex coated yarn it has a beautiful shape that tells a lot about the collection and one with similar seams made of camel colored wool. In his dreams, where would he like to end up one day? In a pleasant work environment, perhaps in Paris. If we could say where hes headed: soon into the closets of fashion afficionados and this coming season onto the catwalk.

Brass, bronze, marble not her thing. With cellophane, paint, powder, and nail varnish Karla Black has just created a space-filling sculpture floating in the midst of Schinkel Pavillon. Even though the former Turner Prize nominee prefers art over language, weve asked her a few questions.
b y SoN J A S T s s e l The BBC described your work as rooted in feminismand fascinated with psychological vulnerability. Which words would you choose for describing your own work? Id rather not use words at all.The sculptures speak for themselves. When forced, I tend to say something like The work prioritizes material experience over language as a way to learn about and understand the world. I would hope that it elicits at least an impetus towards physical response. What fascinates you about cosmetics, plaster and those ephemeral materials? I choose materials and colors out of a pure physical liking for them. My love of using paint and chalk and paper and plaster powder is no different from my love of using make up, moisturizer and deodorant. I always try to find a way to allow a raw, creative moment to enter the world. You say that you dont use cosmetics for their connotations. Can you really expect people not to fill this choice of material with meaning?


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Kuba wears shirt and suit by Calv i n Kl e i n Colle cti o n www.calvinkleininc.com

Julius wears turtleneck shirt and pants by Prada www.prada.com

iss ue [No.] 2 jU LY 2 0 1 2 JONAS LINDstrm JULIUS & KUBA


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Kuba wears shirt and pants by B urbe rry www.burberry.com knitted jumper by A c n e www.acnestudios.com / boots by H U G O www.hugoboss.com Julius wears shirt, jumper and pants by A c n e / boots by H U GO


fashion direction & styling

(left) at The Right Stuff Management

art direction

hair & make-up at Nude, using MAC


(right) at The Special


production & casting

Kuba wears shirt, jacket and pants by S i ss i G o e t z e www.sissigoetze.com boots by H U G O www.hugo.de Julius wears shirt, jumper and pants by S i ssi G o e t z e / boots by H U GO

backstage photography production assistance


i ssu e


Fashion Week Berlin Daily

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Schumacher 1 0 00
Runway, MBFW*

Not to be missed!
Derzeits favorite

1 6 00 Sava Nald
Hotel Adlon Kempinski Palaissaal, Unter den Linden 77 10117 BerlinMitte

Rena Lange 1 1 30
Runway, MBFW*


Laurl 1 3 00
Runway, MBFW*

Marc Cain 1 3 30
Hotel De Rome Behrenstr. 37 10117 BerlinMitte

Marcel Ostertag 1 5 00
Runway, MBFW*

Green Showroom 1 5 30
Hotel Adlon Kempinski Unter den Linden 77 10117 BerlinMitte

*Runway and Studio MBFW, at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tent, Strae des 17. Juni, Siegessule, 10785 Berlin-Tiergarten
Fashion is Bag in Town. Ofcial supplier 2012: BREE The bag. Sincerely yours.

1 6 30 Unrath & Strano

Runway, MBFW*

1 7 30 Hugo by Hugo Boss


1 8 30 Michael Sontag
Runway, MBFW*

2 0 30 Guido Maria Kretschmer

Runway, MBFW*

2 2 00 Irina Schrotter
Runway, MBFW*

Entry to most fashion week events, including catwalk shows, showrooms and trade shows are by accreditation, invite or RSVP, although some are open to the public. Please check with event organizers to find out more!


Blame 1 0 30
Studio, MBFW*

Issever 1 4 00 Bahri
Studio, MBFW*
photo: Andreas Fux

1 9 30 Mongrels in Common & Liebig

Roof Terrace Jdische Mdchenschule Auguststr. 11-13 10117 Berlin< M itte

Dietrich 1 9 00 Emter
Studio, MBFW*

2 1 00 Upcycling Fashion Show

Watergate Falckensteinstr. 47a 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg

BERLIN | SHOWROOM 04.07. - 07.07. Mulackstr. 11 10119 Berlin

in cooperation with LED PULSE


Fashion Week Berlin Daily

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Cheap Monday Press Breakfast / 911h
Apartment am Alexanderplatz Memhardstr. 8 10178 Berlin-Mitte

Within all possible identities Exhibition TueSat / 1118h

Bourouina Gallery Charlottenstr. 12 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Do It Yourself Die Mitmach-Revolution Exhibition Tue / 920h WedFri / 917h SatSun / 1018h
Museum fr Kommunikation Leipziger Str. 16 10117 Berlin-Mitte

SCOOP by E.F.E.C.T 4.6.7. / 1423.59h

Ex-Reichsbank Neuklln Ganghoferstr. 2 12043 Berlin-Neuklln

The After Party BBQ After-Show Party / 19h

Fritz Club Garden at Postbahnhof Strae der Pariser Kommune 8 10243 Berlin-Friedrichshain

My Week with Marilyn (2011) Open Air Screening / 21.45h

THE GALLERY BERLIN 4.5.7. / 1019h

Caf Moskau Karl-Marx-Allee 34 10178 Berlin-Mitte

Kunstquartier Bethanien courtyard Adalbergstr. 73 10119 Berlin-Kreuzberg

PLASTIKJUWELEN 20 years svenja John Exhibition Opening / 16h

Galerie Dziuba Jewels Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 25 10178 Berlin-Mitte

Dutch Fashion Celebration Reception / 19.30h

Deus ex Machina by Julian Schnabel Exhibition TueFri / 1118h Sat / 1116h

Contemporary Fine Arts Am Kupfergraben 10 10117 Berlin-Mitte

Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands Klosterstr. 50 10179 Berlin-Mitte


No.74 Torstr. 74 10119 Berlin-Mitte

Secret Universe III Exhibition TueFri / 1018h Sat / 1120h Sun / 1118h
Hamburger Bahnhof Museum fr Gegenwart Invalidenstr. 50 10557 Berlin-Mitte

WEDDING Dress #7 7.7. / 1221h 8.7. / 1119h

Brunnenstr. 65 & Outdoor Area Bernauer Str. to Voltastr. 10119 Berlin-Mitte

dottirDOTTIR Pop-up Shop VIP Vernissage / 17h Opening / 1922h

Torstr. 68 10119 Berlin-Mitte

INTUITIVE by CAMMELLO MACULATO Performance & Live Music / 20h

Jan Kath Flagship Store Brunnenstr. 3 10119 Berlin-Mitte

Slayer Metallica by Nathan Carter Exhibition TueSat / 1118h

Esther Schipper Schneberger Ufer 65 10785 Berlin-Tiergarten

Showroom Tradeshows
PREMIUM 4.5.7. / 1019h 6.7. / 1018h COLLECT Showroom 5.7. / 1019h 6.7. / 1018h
(capsule) Postbahnhof Strae der Pariser Kommune 8 10243 Berlin-Friedrichshain

Klute (1971) Open Air Screening / 21.30h

Freiluftkino Mitte Haus Schwarzenberg Rosenthaler Str. 39 10178 Berlin-Mitte

CUBE Showroom by Hypnosis Berlin Sample Sale / 1621h

Blowstr. 90 Hinterhaus 10783 Berlin-Schneberg

Ralph Gibson Photography Exhibition TueSat / 1118h

ANIMAL Fashion & Movie Presentation / 21h

Projekt Galerie Gormannstr. 25 10119 Berlin-Mitte

BESTSELLER Trade Show Live Music & Food / 20h

Arena Berlin Eichenstr. 4 12435 Berlin-Treptow

Camera Work Kantstr. 149 10623 Berlin-Charlottenburg

Station Berlin Luckenwalder Str. 46 10963 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Berlin Fashion Film Festival Winners Screening / 1718h

The Wye / Door C Skalitzer Str. 86 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Broken Hearts Club Party / 22h

Ballhaus Berlin Chausseestr. 102 10115 Berlin-Mitte

Juke Presents Ost & Kjex Live / 24h

Cookies Friedrichstr. 158 10117 Berlin-Mitte

Fashioning fashion Europische Moden 17001915 Fashion Exhibition MonSun / 1018h

KSUS at PREMIUM 4.5.7. / 1019h


Kastanienallee 36a 10435 Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg

Station Berlin Luckenwalder Str. 4 10963 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Deutsches Historisches Museum Unter den Linden 2 10117 Berlin-Mitte

SEEK AT KHLHAUS 4.5.7. / 1019h 6.7. / 1018h

Luckenwalder Str. 3 10963 Berlin-Kreuzberg

GREENSHOWROOM 4.6.7. / 1020h

Adlon Kempinski Unter den Linden 77 10117 Berlin-Mitte

About Change Exhibition Mon, WedSun / 1018h

Berlinische Galerie Alte Jakobstr. 124 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg

FIER showroom 5.7.7. / 1119h


Station Berlin Luckenwalder Str. 4 10963 Berlin-Kreuzberg

The Wye / Door C Skalitzer Str. 86 10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Joseph Marioni & William Eggelston Photography Exhibition TueSat / 1118h
Hengesbach Gallery Charlottenstr. 1 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg

No Drama House Space Experiment WedSat / 1118h


Linienstr. 77 10119 Berlin-Mitte

Galerie Giti Nourbakhsch Kurfrstenstr. 12 10785 Berlin-Tiergarten

BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN 4.7. / 1019h 5.6.7. / 1018h

Airport Berlin-Tempelhof Platz der Luftbrcke 5 12101 Berlin-Tempelhof

PLASTIKJUWELEN 20 Years svenja John Exhibition WedFri / 1318h Sat / 1216h

Galerie Dziuba Jewels Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 25 10178 Berlin-Mitte

Why?! by Paul Thek & Luc Tuymans Exhibiton TueFri / 1118h Sat 1116h

Petra Gall Rdiger Trautsch Photography Exhibition Mon, WedSun / 1418h

Schwules Museum Mehringdamm 61 10961 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Pugnat Showroom Summer Collection 2013 5.6.7. / 1117h

Potsdamer Str. 70 Front Building Third Floor 10785 Berlin-Tiergarten

BRIGHT 4.5.7. / 1018h 6.7. / 1017h

Galerie Isabella Czarnowska Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Stasi Headquarters / Haus 18 Normannenstr. 1319 10365 Berlin-Lichtenberg

La mode La mode 4.8.7. / 1823h

The Establishment of Matters of Fact by Alice Creischer Exhibition WedSun / 1218h

KOW Brunnenstrasse 9 10119 Berlin-Mitte

Anthony McCall Exhibition TueFri / 1018h Sat / 1120h Sun / 1118h

Hamburger Bahnhof Museum fr Gegenwart Invalidenstr. 50 10557 Berlin-Mitte

de la Reh & fairqueen.de Pop-up Shop WedThu / 1020h Fri / 1018h

E-Werk / Halle C Wilhelmstr. 43 10117 Berlin-Mitte

Diane Arbus Photography Exhibition Mon, WedSun / 1019h

Martin-Gropius-Bau Niederkirchner Str. 7 10963 Berlin-Kreuzberg

CAPSULE 5.7. / 1019h 6.7. / 1018h

LAtelier-kunst(spiel)raum Grobeerenstr. 34 10965 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Postbahnhof Strae der Pariser Kommune 8 10243 Berlin-Friedrichshain

ortsgesprche Exhibition WedSun / 1218h

Snake Preview 4.7. / 1518h 5.7. / 1118h 6.7. / 1115h

Kunst-Werke-Berlin Auguststr. 69 10117 Berlin-Mitte

Designer Sale by PROJEKT GALERie Pop-up Shop MonSun / 1120h

Gormannstr. 25 10119 Berlin-Mitte

Art Based on Photography by M.A. Rust & W. Quilliam Exhibition MonSun / 922h
Art Place Berlin Alexanderplatz 7 10178 Berlin-Mitte

HELDEN Exhibition TueWed / 1018h Thu / 1020h FriSun / 1018h

Bezirksmuseum Adalbertstr. 95 A 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg

SHOW & ORDER 4.5.7. / 1019h

Kraftwerk (Tresor) Kpenicker Str. 70 10179 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Manifesto Collage Exhibition Mon, WedSun / 1018h

Berlinische Galerie Alte Jakobstr. 124 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg

ETHICAL FASHION SHOW 4.5.7. / 1020h 6.7. / 1018h

E-Werk / Halle F Wilhelmstr. 43 10117 Berlin-Mitte


Jan Kath Flagship Store Brunnenstr. 3 10119 Berlin-Mitte

Deutsche Kinemathek Museum fr Film und Fernsehen Potsdamer Str. 2 10785 Berlin-Mitte

Memo 2112 Exhibition WedThu / 1020h Fri / 1018h

E-Werk Wilhelmstr. 43 10117 Berlin-Mitte

Alfredo Jaar Exhibition Mon / 1018h WedSun / 1018h

Berlinische Galerie Alte Jakobstr. 124 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg

Bildhauergruppe ODIOUS Exhibition TueSun / 1018h

Georg-Kolbe-Museum Sensburger Allee 25 14055 Berlin-Charlottenburg

12 x 12 Video Art Mon / 1018h WedSun / 1018h

Berlinische Galerie Alte Jakobstr. 124 10969 Berlin-Kreuzberg

TOAST & JAM Vintage Fashion 7.7. / 1022h 8.7. / 1019h

Wstenwind Nemona Showroom 4.6.7. / 1220h

Mainzer Str. 5 12053 Berlin-Neuklln

Umspannwerk Kreuzberg Ohlauer Str. 43 10999 Berlin-Kreuzberg

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What is real and what is not? How do you imitate reality, how real is that imitation?

Photo by Caitlin Cronenberg

Master of Disaster
an interview with

Photo by Caitlin Cronenberg

David Cronenberg
David Cronenberg has shot so many movies and won so many awards that we dont have the space to list them all. The 69-year-old Canadian director, who is involuntarily known as the master of a genre called body horror, has always had a thing for monsters. Back in the golden days of horror movies, the evil in his movies lay in parasites, plagues and mutations. Others, like the controversial Crash and his latest movie Cosmopolis, explore the human faces of monstrosity. Based on a novel by Don DeLillo, Cosmopolis describes one day in the life of Eric Packer, a young New York billionaire making money in the high speed trade environments, who takes himself and the worlds economy down because he couldnt figure out the Yen. We talked to David Cronenberg about timing, virtual realities and stretch limos.
If this picture doesnt make you scream and squirm, youd better see a psychiatrist this line advertized your film Shivers in 1975.What effect is Cosmopolis supposed to have? David Cronenberg: Well, its probably not going to drive anybody to see a psychiatrist. ( laughs ) Although having made a movie about Sigmund Freund and Carl Jung, maybe that wouldnt be a bad thing. I never know why Im making a movie, I dont have a target audience or a targeted reason for it. Theres something about a project that appeals to me, its complexity, its emotional and philosophical resonances. Its my way of exploring what it is to be a human being right now in the world. Then I invite my audience to come along on that trip with me. Don DeLillo published the novel on which the film is based about a ruthless hedge fund manager in 2004. How much did the actual financial crisis influence the film? Although the movie does suggest that its about the economic collapse, its not meant to be a

by SONJA STssel

model: KATRIN THORMANN at Seeds / photography: STEFAN MILEV art direction & set design: MANUEL SCHIBLI / styling: SEBASTIANO RAGUSA make-up: CECILIA BOURGUEIL using MAC / hair: Tom Strohmetz at Nude casting: Alix Eickhorst at Everything Casting


production by ALICE KUHN & MANUEL SCHIBLI at Maliceberlin / backstage: JESSICA BARTHEL / prod. assistance: DOMINIK BACHMANN / fash. assistance: ALICE CONNEW / photogr. assistance: Dunja Antic & Markus Erpel
dress and wool coat sleeves with attached gloves by Ma is on M art in M arg ie la


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Its like those scenes in a science fiction movie where you have a nuclear physicist explaining some detailed, complex scientific thing that the normal audience cannot understand, but it doesnt matter. In some scenes, where a lot of philosophical discussions are going on about financing, about capitalism, about the future of capitalism and so on what is important is that you understand that these people think in very abstract complex terms. You dont really have to get the details of the philosophy. On the other hand, if you see the movie again I think you start to understand those things because everything said there actually makes sense and is really interesting in a philosophical way. Your protagonists often have difficulties relating to other people.What has made this world and people seem to be somewhat autistic? What appeals to you about this topic? As an artist, you are creating an artificial reality that is meant in some way to evoke human experiences of reality. And so any artist, I think, has to deal with the question of what is real and what is not: How do you imitate reality, how real is that imitation? I dont think its unusual for any artist to be dealing with that question because its basic to the actual process of art itself, the imitation of reality or the creation of a new virtual reality through art. So what fascinates you about the character of the hedge fund manager? Its not like in the old days of finance, when you knew what you were investing in, when you invested in the Henry Ford Motor Company for example. But in the case of people like

I dont really believe in that theory of identification. Weve all seen movies where we love a villain like Hannibal Lecter.You dont identify with him, youre not going to eat children, but you are fascinated, intrigued and provoked by him. So I dont think you have to identify with Eric Packer, who is another kind of monster in a way. But you have to be interested in him, you have to be fascinated by him and thats one of the reasons why I cast Robert Pattinson. Robert Pattinson has predominantly female fans.Your films and DeLillos writing address a male rather than a female audience. Did you think about this ambivalence before deciding to work with Pattinson? No. First of all Im not sure about DeLillo in particular being mainly appealing to males.You need an actor who has fans, someone recognizable in order to finance a movie, definitely. But then once youre making that movie, for me as a director its as though the actor has never made another movie and as though I have never made another movie. Especially when its a movie as unusual as Cosmopolis. Looking back at the films youve made in the past, female protagonists are rare.Why is that?

investment in a film was a new thing in Canada. Until around that time the country had no feature film industry. So the government had to decide what kind of movies they would invest in, what was a real movie and what wasnt. And I was making a genre piece, a horror film. So they were a little confused about what I had created and whether they should invest in movies like that. But since then that has never been a problem. Even my movie Crash, which caused more controversy than Shivers internationally and in which Canadian government money was involved, caused no problems. So I think I went past

Its a crucial thing to have time to genuinely think, contemplate and meditate
that problem in Canada anyway. There is a lot of wealth involved in Cosmopolis.Whats the biggest luxury you can think of right now? Having time to think. Its not a physical thing, its actually difficult to find in the world in general. All the incredible incursions from emails and the internet and so on, all the distractions. For an artist, its a crucial thing to have time to genuinely think, contemplate and meditate. Thats probably why you find a lot of artists disconnecting their internet for a while in order to work. Is that one of the reasons why you were so fascinated by DeLillos writing? The novel deals a lot with the issue of time, the present and the future ... Yes, I think so. Its a very philosophical novel talking about very real things. What is interesting: I dont think Don DeLillo has email. If you want to connect with him, you have to use a fax machine. And he still writes on an old Olympia portable typewriter Woody Allen does as well, in fact. In other words: He understands himself a little bit like Eric Packer but for a different reason. He has to isolate himself and disconnect a bit from the world in order to create his writing. Do any of your films still haunt you? They all haunt me. They are like documentaries of particular moments in my life. In other words, I cant see my movies like other people do. They always remind me of the moments when I was making the films, of the people I was working with, some of whom are dead now. When you have a long career, the movies are almost like home movies. They all haunt me.

movie about world economics. Its about the collapse of the economics of one man, one particular man and his approach to his life, his power and his talent as a hedge fund guy. In other words its about Eric Packer, who has decided to destroy himself financially. Did you decide to make this movie before the collapse of Lehman Brothers? I spearheaded this film about 3.5 years ago. So it wasnt before all of the disasters, certainly Bernard Madoff already existed, but the basic collapse of Wall Street had not actually happened when I agreed to do the movie. And they certainly hadnt happened when DeLillo wrote the book. But its inevitable that it will have resonances for us now that it didnt have back then. Its hard to resist when you see scenes of protesters in the movie who look exactly like the Occupy Wall Street protestors. Its a strange thing the way that

The images of my movies all haunt me

happened. Even the pie in the face that Rupert Murdoch got took place just a few days after we shot the scene in the movie where our hero gets a pie in the face. Its strangely prophetic on the part of Don DeLillo. What was the biggest challenge working on this movie? Getting it financed is always the biggest challenge if youre making a film thats unusual and sort of demanding and complex. Once I got the financing, I didnt find the movie that hard to make, frankly. Creating the set for the limousine and trying to make it feel real, as if it was actually going through the streets of New York was the obvious, physically difficult part of the movie. But in fact its a lot of fun, working with the production designer figuring out how to make a limousine set which comes apart in 22 pieces, like a Lego car, so that you can shoot in many different ways and then using computer graphics to create New York City through the windows. How often do you spend time in a white stretch limo? Almost never, but it does happen. Usually these days, when you go to a premiere in Europe, you wind up in a black Mercedes. Its a little hard to get around the corner with a white stretch limo in the streets in Europe. I dont think its very practical.

Cosmopolis is not your first adaptation of a novel.What can you communicate in film that you cant in literature? When I wrote the script I left out a lot of things that were what I think of as innately literary.There are things that you can do in a novel, even in a bad one, like interior monologue, which you cant do in film, even in a great film.You often have movies where somebody reads a book to you, voiceover sections of the book. But I always think thats pathetic, its an admission that youve failed to figure out a way to make a movie out of a book. I dont do that. I understand that certain parts in a book cant be done visually. On the other hand, on screen, I can give you the actors. I give you the face of Robert Pattinson and the face and the voice of Paul Giamatti.There are ways, with lighting, with camera angles, with the performances of the actors, that you can deliver some things that you cant have in the novel in a way that balances. So you are not making a replica of the book, you are creating a Eric Packer, who does this computerized, highfrequency trading, nothing real is being produced at all, its all just numbers in a bank account. Its a weird virtual reality that nonetheless makes real money. So you have a guy who deals with money all the time, but he never actually touches real money. When hes outside his limo, he doesnt know how to function: He doesnt know how to talk to his wife, how to order dinner. He keeps saying to his wife: This is how real people talk, isnt it? He lives a very abstracted, kind of virtual life. And I know from speaking to people who are in the finance business that this is quite an accurate portrayal of people who live in that strange financial bubble where things are not real in a normal sense. Thats a perfect reason for an artist to be interested in this kind of life. So how do you convince the average movie goer to identify with Eric Packer, if thats possible? Well, thats not true. The lead character in eXistenZ is Jennifer Jason Leigh and the lead character in Rabid is Marilyn Chambers. Well, two out of how many? Yeah, well, it counts. (laughs) Of course as a man, when Im writing my own screenplays ... well, actually thats not true. When I wrote the first draft of Rabid, and likewise, when I wrote the first draft of eXistenZ, the lead character was a man. And it wasnt until I changed the lead characters to a woman until the script worked for me. Its a very mysterious gender thing. But I dont really see that as an issue frankly. Back in the 70s, the film Shivers created a controversy and was even discussed in the Canadian parliament.What would you have to do nowadays to get into such trouble? I must say things have changed since then. One of the problems at the time was that government

Its a little hard to get around the corner with a white stretch limo in the streets in Europe

new thing.The two must exist together, you dont replace one with the other. While in the book you can take your time to think about stylized and abstract dialogue, thats impossible in the movie. How important is it to understand their meaning to understand the film?

Cosmopolis in cinemas in Germany starting July 5th! www.facebook.com/cosmopolis.derfilm


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yw hen it

Nom d e G u e rr e


stuck in a loop
Swedish pop trio Nom de Guerre is kickstarting their next chapter with the brand new single Stuck in a Loop - of which the DERZEIT readers get an exclusive sneak peak. Lead singer Hector has spent the last few years working in Berlin as a producer and manages to connect disco and electronica in a very amusing and lighthearted way. SW

Creative Crisis
Dont fall apart, make art in Athens
photo by Matilda Rahm


It was clear that during these summer weeks there wouldnt be any rain, neither in southern France,

nor in Spain or Portugal. Happy When it Rains was a quote, the title of a song by The Jesus and Mary Chain from their album Darklands. Beneath this holiday slogan Id drawn a strange flower with black Edding pen on my Simplicol-dyed jeans; not that the rain made the flower happy, no my floral theme had been inspired by the cover of the album Disintegration. For years, Id been Robert Smiths biggest fan. Every morning, I worked my naturally curly hair with a mixture of soap suds and Clynol, a spray in a pump bottle made of grey plastic long since forgotten also called concrete spray because of its cementing effect. After the treatment with Clynol and soap I blow-dried my hair over the top of my head into a hairstyle that became the subject of my parents never-ending remarks. At my school there were two others who tried to look more or less the same. I got along well with the so-called Lizzy Junker. Unfortunately her parents, who called her Elisabeth, sent her to a Protestant reform school. The other guy I almost never spoke to because he was so bulky. Recently, my mother told me that nowadays he reads the news at a rather well-known Swabian radio station. As it seems, his shape has increasingly worsened over the last twenty years. He allegedly drives a Cabriolet with metallic paint. Unthinkable back then. Just as unthinkable as the fact that I would ever wear a different color than black. Could ever listen to music other than This Mortal Coil or The Cure. That I would own a comb, that Clynol would disappear from the shelves. I probably couldnt even imagine what Robert Smith in black swimming trunks on a black terry cloth towel on a beach . . . It sounds as if I am hundreds of years old, but at the time it really wasnt possible for a bank clerk to sport a mohawk. A classmate left high school to start an apprenticeship at a bank because he wanted to become branch manager. To achieve his goal, he took off his beloved earring and filled his lobe with flesh-colored foundation from his big sisters make-up box. I thought that was strange. Spineless, to be more precise. The interesting thing about the youth culture I wanted to be a part of was the ideology that wasnt actually one: To be against it, to look different. The only one who is not like the rest of you: Thats me. When I arrived in Biarritz, it was over thirty degrees. And despite the strenuous and hygienically disastrous leg of the journey one could still read on the leg of my jeans: Happy When It Rains.

B i lly B og u s

As founder of Italian label Pizzico Records this man has been dedicated to slow motion and nu disco for ages now. After playing alongside artists like Justice and Boys Noize he finally released his first album Disco Lambro 76 in 2011. You want some disco shivers? Arborea! There you go! SW
From the album Arborea Pizzico Records www.billybogus. tumblr.com



Weve scoured the airwaves for the buzziest new bands and wrangled fresh tracks from the artists we adore, to compile a fashion week soundtrack exclusive to DERZEIT. Check out today s featured artists, download the tracks free from our website, and stay tuned for more musical goodness in the coming days!

Z e bra ( B lack C rack e r r e m i x )

ima read
Mr Vast

A solo effort from the frontman of British absurdist comedy outfit, Wevie Stonder. On first listen, Atlantis evokes the sultry, salty sound of early Morcheeba - its tailor-made for summer until you hear the tongue-in-cheek lyrics: I could breathe under the water / I could swim just like an eel / I was growing gills and webbing / but I still had sex appeal. MG
From the upcoming album Grievous Bodily Charm / released later this summer Spezial Material Records / www.mrvast.com

This is NSFW hip hop at its dark, minimal and mashed-up best. Its also Black Crackers remix of the track that defined Paris Fashion Week in March (it played at Rick Owens; Anna Della Russo loved it). Check out the Berlin-based producer/performers debut album, Tears of a Clown, for more potent and poetic www.blackcracker.info hip hop. MG

About 50 per cent unemployment amongst the youth, people like you and me dumpster diving: The crisis has hit Greece hard. But every low has an upside, right? Take a failed state, a decently sized capital and a high unemployment rate, follow them to poverty, deserted houses and the need to get creative to earn and save money; add, above all, a good measure of liberty and you get a recipe for some fertile artists ground. Berlin used to be like that, but the times seem to be about to turn for the German capital. At least thats how I feel when I look at my lease. Today Athens seems to better fit the bill. Besides a Mediterranean climate and nice food, what does the ancient city offer to Western art migrants? And what could these nomads do for Greece? One of the first to flee from booming Berlin was photographer Lisa Wassmann. The 30-year-old artist was fed up with the city developing into a second Ibiza. Theres not much to discover any more. Searching for freedom, which for many Berliners equals space and cheap rents, she moved to Athens, where rents are dropping and people have started sharing flats to lower costs. For 100 Euros, you could have a room overlooking the Acropolis. On the downside, groceries and bills are getting more expensive, even though Greece currently has the lowest inflation rate within the Eurozone. But what counts for Lisa is the space: Open spaces open possibilities. Maybe it is because of the space, but the crisis has started to change Athens creative scene. Panos Papandopoulos, a painter and foundb y So n ja St s s e l

Either you do something or you dont. And people do

pressure is inspiring, the feeling of freedom, Panos points out. International galleries have started to share this impression: Interest in Greek art is rising. Some curators even call Athens more interesting than New York. A lot of galleries have started testing the waters, establishing contacts and searching for artists capturing the essence of the crisis. For the first time in contemporary essay Greek art weve started talking, says Athensbased artist Danae Stratou, you, me, the world is suddenly looking at what is going on in the Greek art scene. We were non-existent on an international level before. Perhaps this is an opportunity for us, that suddenly curators and art dealers are coming to Greece. i l l u s t r a t i o n b y J u a n a R obl e s At the moment, however, these are er of the Dada Da Academy, has been amazed by dreams for the future. Art sales have plummeted the changes in the art scene over the past year or and jobs are hard to find.Those who do have a job two. Born in 1975 in Athens, Panos spent the last earn considerably less than a year ago net infew years in Vienna. When he returned to his comes have dropped by 23 per cent. Artists like hometown, he was taken by surprise at the sudden Danae, who represented Greece at the 48th Venice number of exhibitions, off spaces and artists col- Biennale and whose large-scale installations rely laborations. Today much more is happening than heavily on funding, struggle to create works at all. a few years ago, he says. Things are in motion. The cuts in government expenditures have hit the Everthing seems like there is no tomorrow. arts hard. And EU funds are problematic as the The spaces have always been there artworks have to be adapted to match their criteria. While some try to stay active to consome of the really beautiful ones in the city center have been vacant for 40 years. But it is only now, tribute to change, others are losing hope.The situin the crisis, that people have started to take advan- ation immobilizes people, says Danae. As a matter tage of them. Everyone has moved closer to- of fact, she felt paralyzed herself when the crisis gether: different scenes from music to fashion, turned her life upside down in 2010. It took alartists and curators from different galleries have most two years before she launched her new projstarted working together. Panos explains this de- ect, Its Time to Open the Black Boxes. People velopment as being part and parcel with the lack are not happy at all. They are more angry and more sad, Ismini says. It is this anger that could become the most powerful threat to the freedom required for creativity. The Neo-Nazi party Golden Dawn received almost seven per cent of the vote in the last elections. The extreme right wing is a threat to both gays and foreigners.Violence against homosexuals has risen, as have media reports about attacks on non-Greeks and fellow EU citizens. Frustrated by Greeces downward spiral, people have started searching for a scapegoat. This is the worst part of the crisis, that people have started blaming each other, Danae says. For the moment, Athens is a place of great insecurity. No one is certain that the country will remain part of the eurozone or that it can escape financial collapse. These are desperate and challenging times, but it might also be a chance for a new beginning. A beginning that Danae will only witness from abroad. She is leaving Greece with her husband, an economist, to move to the US. We are being forced to leave, she explains. And she is not the only one turning her back on Athens. Many young people have moved to the countryof money: Before the crisis, payments and sales side. Ismini wants to escape to Berlin. Panos, on the were a huge issue, even though they often seemed other hand, is trying to invite as many of his intertoo little to justify the hassle. Today its clear: There national friends as possible to Athens, because he is no money. So either you do something or you believes in Greeces potential for the arts. Lisa Wassmann plans on staying as well. She flies back dont. And people do. Why do people bother organizing to Berlin every now and then to earn money, events and working creatively if money has been which she will later spend in Athens fresh money taken out of the equation? To try to have fun, to for the failing Greek economy. When cash is low, keep doing things and to forget, Ismini Adami she does what many Greeks have started doing: points out. We try not to be miserable fucks. exchanging services for payment. The crisis made the publisher of the Athens-based Athens at the moment is not for everymens fashion magazine Dapper Dan rethink one, she says of her experience. Coming from a stuff.You make decisions that you wouldnt when city that has battled high unemployment ever the economy was blossoming. In consequence, since Reunification, she is not the kind to get you are more focused on what is really important beaten down easily by depression. It makes me angry when talented people start being lethargic, to you, where you want to succeed. As the crisis forces you to go deeper she says. Ive been fighting my whole life. If this into things, the quality and marketability of art isnt for you, then do something else, go someworks might benefit. The artists do not just talk where else. But if you have a pretty thick skin, you and make work about the crisis, but the stress, the can do a lot here.




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zooming in on:


Why? I think that you have to reach a point where you hand your designs over to someone else. Working as a recluse is not a healthy situation in the long run. Also, in the industry you dont work by yourself. So you have to learn to communicate with all these people in a professional way. A patterncutter has a different language to a designer. You have to learn this language. Since you started designing, has your attitude towards fashion changed? Absolutely, because time evolves and fashion changes, too. We now have so many collections: Fall/Winter, Resort, Menswear, Spring/Summer, Pre-Collection. Its almost becoming like a machine, every two to three months you are turning it out. It feels like feeding children with their mouths open, and you cant feed them fast enough. Does it make the fashion industry a worse place to work? I dont know if it makes it a worse workplace, but it makes it more corporate. Ten years ago when I started, you were allowed to do events that didnt cost much money, that were a bit shit but had some kind of attitude to it. People loved it. Now you have to have these humongous fashion shows which cost a huge amount of money. I am not too keen about that part of the fashion industry. Have you ever thought about designing something politically inspired? No. I always think that its very dangerous for fashion designers to talk about politics unless you are Vivienne Westwood and do it in a bizarre way. Which values does your label represent? Other people are probably better at answering this question. Maybe sustainability. What takes you to the streets? I would never go to a demonstration. But I have opinions about things.What really makes me angry and makes me sweat is peoples attitudes towards each other. I hate when people cant queue. If you were to write an autobiography, where would you start? Probably with my birth. Not with the rabbit? (laughs) Yeah, maybe with the rabbit. What is the rabbit about anyway? It was a print in my second collection, about the main character in the movie Of Human Bondage starring Bette Davis. Its about a mad East End woman who looked a tiny bit like a rabbit. The print is a good graphic element and has become my symbol. Funny thing is, I recently went home to my m oms, where she was going through all these childhood pictures. In one shot I was seven and dressed up as a rabbit. So it all comes together.


Tracking runway
down the by SHARON WELZEL While everyone else absolutely insists on hustling and bustling at the tent, Ive been told to stay strictly offsite. First off, Ive got Augustin Teboul in Salon Dahlmann. Sinister goddesses of the underworld the shows title is Les Fleurs du Mal lounge about indolently on sofas, armchairs, and pedestals. The usual black, the usual frills, knife pleats en masse and broderie anglaise, in a bouquet jungle and oooh la la, whats that? Breakfast! I grab a Citrus Cosmopolitan and wash it down with a Belvedere Masquerade. The mood suddenly brightens, someone is playing Deux Nocturnes for me (who wrote that again?) and I dont know if its the alcohol, but suddenly all the flowers seem to be leaning towards the models like little monsters. Oh, those evil, evil flowers ha! Its all starting to make sense, and already time to go. I arrive at Karaleev a little tipsy, and as if hed been expecting this, he welcomes me with open arms: somnambulant models are clustered on the Podewil theater stage, in powder pink, lots of gray, a bit of white. Who needs seams anyway? The sun outside beckons. Colors start blurring, one pair of blue shorts seems like a lone cornflower in a parched summer meadow. When The Doors Another Kiss melts into Siouxsie and the Banshees Dear Prudence, I figure it out: A dreamy summer romance. I could remain here forever, now wheres another Cosmopolitan? ... But, hey! Wakey! Wakey! How long have I been in this theater? Gotta rush to Dont Shoot The Messengers! Awaiting me is their collaboration with Tissue, the magazine famous for its stylishly explicit content. Sits pretty, I think to myself, with the whiff of fetish that always lingers around DSTM. And indeed its being laid on thick in the cellar of Le Chat Gris: corsage-type pieces, with long semi-transparent skirts, leather armbands and other straps. Its served with champagne and strawberries doused in rosewater and very soon a voice in my head is nudging me to be bolder. Oh dear. All I can say is the mixture will be making itself felt tomorrow. Dont try this at home! But to keep some of my dignity: no head, no headache, right?

photo by C H R IS T O P H MACK

If you can design a pair of trousers that makes people feel good about themselves, youve reached your goal
For eleven years, Peter Jensen has been affixing bunnies the bunny is the symbol of his label. Jensen has a sense of humor and so does his clothing, typified by clear lines, a lot of color and his courage to work with unconventional prints. In 1999, the Dane graduated from Central Saint Martins College in London, and has since become perhaps the most British Scandinavian in London. Meanwhile, he teaches at Central Saint Martins and at the Berlin University of the Arts (UdK). DERZEIT met with him in Berlin in the new office he occupies as professor, in a room formerly used for storing clothes hangers.
www.peterjensen.co.uk udk-berlin.de www.csm.arts.ac.uk

b y M ar e i k e N i e b e rd i n g

Where does style end and attitude begin for you? Im not sure if there is a style to begin with. Good style has good attitude and bad style has bad attitude. Those two things go very much hand in hand. Nothing ends or begins.

by James Castle At some point during their adolescence, almost every boy dreams of being a rock star, even if only for a few weeks. For some the dream lasts a lot longer, even if it is one that only ever moves further away. However close you get to that dream, you dont have to be a rock star to dress like one. Sopopular showed pleated shorts paired with crisp short-sleeve shirts and workwear boots that could transform you into a member of any indie band in the world. A couple of slim tailored jackets had a real mod flair, as did a beautiful bomber jacket in a mushroom colored parachute fabric. Unfortunately, a lot of the rest of this mix and match show wasnt as successful. There appeared to be as many concepts as outfits, and to find any continuity was almost impossible. A zippered jacket and trouser combo in yellow was really bizarre, as was a long sleeveless jacket in grey linen. Finally, there has to be a better way to use that studio space. The huge amounts of dry ice fit the tone but the models standing like statues for what felt like an eternity seemed like an opportunity wasted.Worst of all, it took so long to change barely anyone was left to see the final six outfits.

Within the design process does design become attitude? Or does attitude become design? You can always add the attitude. As a designer you have to work with certain elements because of the human body. My own attitude towards fashion always followed a simple rule: If you can design a pair of trousers that makes people feel good about themselves, youve reached your goal. Maybe I like the functional approach because Im Danish. Denmark is famous for its functional furniture, for example by Arne Jacobsen. His designs were made to be used, not to be decorative. Do humor and fashion connect? Yes, for me it has a connection. But I have a very dry, understated sense of humor not that kind of humor when designers say, Uh, lets do a big hat and fake fur and put Fuck You on it. Thats just too obvious and too stupid. And there is certainly nothing worse than meeting people who dont have any sense of humor or irony and take themselves incredibly seriously. You simultaneously teach at Central Saint Martins College in London and at the UdK in Berlin. How does your teaching at the two schools differ? I meet the students on a different level. At Central Saint Martins I teach in the Masters program. In Berlin I get in touch with beginners. The setup is different, too. At Saint Martins youve got pattern cutters and machinists who really do the craft for you. Here they have to do everything by themselves and Im not sure if thats healthy.


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Rebekka Rutz
b y S e b a s t i a n o R a gu s a The drumming at the start of the show promises an invasion of warriors-and here they come, with long elaborate braids falling forwards over their shoulders. Right on cue, Diana, goddess of war, advances with an army of clones, but we never get to the actual battle. A peace offer in the shape of a bride comes striding down the runway, a bouquet of sunflowers in her hands. I dont like sunflowers at all and the same could be said about this collection. Its beautiful, certainly, and the materials are good quality. Leather meets brocade, meets linen, meets lace, meets silk etc. The same goes for the color concept: summery from yellow to pale blue, to beige and white. Yes, its all very harmonious and rounded but at the same time also underwhelming. All that remains is to wipe the warpaint off my face and retreat from the battlefield. Tchussy fighting spirits, tchussy Diana.

Augustin Teboul
b y J A M ES C ASTLE You would think that presentations should give greater scope for designers to tell their story compared to the narrow confines of a runway show.Very rarely is that the case though. Design duo Annelie Augustin and Odly Teboul really showed how it should be done.The scene was grand and sophisticated, with silver trays of vodka cocktails weaving amongst the guests and Chopin playing from a grand piano.The atmosphere on the other hand was full of sexual tension, like finding yourself at an exclusive high society party and forever feeling that an orgy is about to break out at any moment. Models draped themselves across the couches and furniture in provocative poses, flowers arranged in huge sculptural forms rose up around them. Black lace was pulled tight across skin. Sheer silk, often embellished with glossy black beads, was draped from the shoulder and waist in varying volumes and lengths. A tougher edge took the form of leather jackets and pants in biker styles.The word presentation doesnt accurately describe the final result this was a performance.


photos b y L U C A FAVO L O J ESSI C A BA R T H E L Fab i e n n e K arma n n

Vladimir Karaleev
b y ANNE P OSTRA C H I would love to have stayed and swayed with the models through the summer air to the sound of Siouxsie and the Banshees. Back and forth. Back and forth, turn once, look fabulously bored, and twirl your undone hair the perfect activity on a day like this. Karaleevs fashion was like his models, idly hanging around on their lanky, long-limbed bodies. But what exquisite hanging! Nothing fit perfectly, not one garment was crease-free, there was no glamour, no glitz, no glory, just clothes youd want to wear. Right now. Because when youre at the mercy of a heatwave, you need voluminous, airy materials, bermudas, and cotton maxi dresses more than you need your best friend. And whites in all shades, which dont only work on holiday beaches. Extra freshness came in the form of largescale prints flowers and color blocks in blue, yellow, and orange on shirts, or under transparent skirts. And oxygen poured in through slits in shirts and gaps between layers. Cooling just to look at. Thank you.
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Designer For Tomorrow

b y C ELINA P LA G One thing is sure:This years winner of the Designer for Tomorrow Award is anything but commercial. Few were expecting it when Marc Jacobs, appearing as host for the second time running, announced the jurys decision: The award was to go to Spanish designer Leandro Cano, with a collection hardly anyone would describe as wearable. Deforming, sometimes jagged bulges emerge from leathery long-sleeves or full-crochet catsuits and dresses stabilized by crinolines. Everything is held in black, white and beige; a pattern here, a daub of color there. At the start, theres little cohesion. Its like Spanish Baroque meets Hussein Chalayan or Maison Martin Margiela, all vaguely familiar and yet not merely copied. And thats exactly what he has mastered: gallop through fashion history with Spain at the center. His designs resemble paintings, full of hidden symbolism and iconographic meaning. Canos triumph this season is also a triumph of art over commerce.

Kaviar Gauche
b y M AREIKE NIEBERDIN G Ill beat that bitch with a whip, came blaring out of the speakers, but the audience already looked defeated without a bitch slap. Because Johanna Khl and Alexandra FischerRhler of Kaviar Gauche were doing what they always do bridal fashion with teeth and evening gowns for aspiring brides with teeth easy on the eye, but low on innovation, and that goes for the house itself. Last season they went for immortal polarities of black and white, good and evil, angel and devil. For this collection Khl and FischerRhler seem to have lacked a bit of the initial spark. Silk and chiffon flowed in white, mustard green, black and caramel, sometimes high necked with a very low-cut back, mostly ruffed at the waist with a snake-skin belt, generally short at the front and long at the back, or with a bodice in ornamentally punched leather.The collection will surely sell well. But trailblazing? Hardly. And the speakers go: fucky fucky, licky, licky.