Essential Guideto Chocolate

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The

Introduction

Contents
3 from bean to bar
Transforming cocoa beans into Callebauts quality ingredients

4-5 Choc trends

a question of quality
Dear chef, Callebaut is about much more than quality chocolate. Our companys key aim is to offer solutions to chefs at all levels that work with chocolate. If youre looking for ingredients that allow you to stand out from the crowd, or whether you aim for desserts that guarantees a great taste and can be prepared simply and easily, then Callebaut is your ideal partner. I have tested and experienced the companys expertise myself. My years as a pastry chef and as head of the UK Academy have taught me to be critical and demanding, and Im pleased to say that Callebaut has met every one of my demands. I continue to be impressed with the taste, texture and look of the end result, the time I can save and the overall efficiency and pleasure that comes with using Callebauts products and services. Youll be amazed with the end result too. If theres anything youd like to know, dont hesitate to visit us at www.callebaut.com
Beverley Dunkley

The new techniques, approaches and trends in the chocolate realm

6-7 The range

Our essential guide to Callebauts key products

8-9 tempering
Tempering your chocolate: all you need to know

10-11 plating
Top 10 ways to make your chocolate creations look the part

12-14 recipes
A mouth-watering selection of recipes that showcase taste, skill and versatility

15 trouble-shooting & the Academy

Problem-solving on the chocolate front and courses at Callebauts Chocolate Academy

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William Reed Business Media Ltd 2012 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electrical, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the publisher.

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growth & production

COCOA PODS TAKE six months to mature

The cocoa tree flowers throughout the year

beans are sundried to reduce moisture content

From bean to bar

The Tree
It all starts with the cocoa tree. The type of soil that it is grown in and the climatic conditions determine the flavour of the cocoa and the products that are eventually created with it. The cocoa tree flowers thousands of tiny pink and white flowers throughout the year, but only 30 or so flowers will develop into cocoa pods. These are fully grown after six months and harvested twice a year (main crop and mid crop).

The complex transformation of Callebauts cocoa beans to quality cooking ingredient

Bean to liquor
After harvesting, the cocoa beans are cleaned, dried and broken and the shells removed so only pieces of kernel referred to as cocoa nibs remain. The nibs are then roasted before being ground. This process yields three products: cocoa liquor, cocoa powder and cocoa butter.

Making the chocolate

The production of liquid chocolate involves three processes: mixing, refining and conching (a process that smooths the chocolate). The selection and ratio of the ingredients are critical to the final product. Dark chocolate is made from mixing and processing cocoa liquor, cocoa butter, sugar and vanilla. The same formula is used for milk chocolate but with the addition of milk powder. White chocolate uses the same recipe as milk but the cocoa liquor is omitted. It is then tempered, cooled and finally moulded into callets and packaged before making its journey to you.
barry callebaut processing plants are located around the world

Harvesting
After cutting the pods open, the beans are removed and left to ferment for five to seven days to develop aroma and flavour. After fermentation, beans are left to sun dry for about six days until moisture content is between 6% and 8%. They are then brought to a collection centre where they are graded, packed and allotted a quality code before being shipped from ports to different Barry Callebaut plants or processed in origin countries.

ONCE graded, the beans are shipped for processing

the production of liquid chocolate is the last stage before moulding

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hay presto: sir hans sloane chocolate flavoured with hay

Trendspotting
The new approaches, techniques and ingredients causing a stir in the upper echelons of the chocolate world
Nostalgia. Simplicity. Unusual locally sourced ingredients. Haute chocolate trends often mirror what is going on in the wider restaurant landscape. Take the idea of nostalgia. In the restaurant sector, this need for familiarity and comfort has bought about the reinterpretation of traditional British comfort dishes. In the chocolate world its having an equally marked effect, as Bill McCarrick, owner of Sir Hans Sloane chocolate shop in Byfleet, Surrey, explains. When I was a child we almost never ate dark chocolate. Looking back 30 years and taking inspiration from sweet shops has caused a resurgence in milk and white chocolate. There used to be a certain snobbery at
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the top-end it was dark chocolate or nothing. This rediscovery of milk and white chocolate is a positive because it can increase the range of chocolate dishes on a restaurant menu. Instead of simply offering a dark chocolate-based dessert, chefs can add a lighter variety and thereby cater for a broader range of tastes. Indeed, chefs now need to be open to the fact that milk chocolate and white chocolate often seen as being intrinsically cheap and cheerful can be very, very good. If you want proof, check out the milk chocolate category of Callebauts Single Origin range. So what are the key ingredients and flavour combinations that chocolatiers and pastry chefs

chocolate trends

will be using in 2012? Salted caramel is ingredients including wasabi, vinegars and on a downward trajectory after a long Yamazaki single malt whisky. run of fashionability, and is likely to The latter example highlights another be replaced by cleaner, more acidic trend in the ascendancy the use flavours. At last years World Chocolate of named premium and super Masters competition, UK contestant premium spirits. John Costello stuck to simple Despite the increased use of fruit flavours such as apricot, milk and white chocolate, passion fruit and raspberry for chocolate products are generally his creations, which included getting less and less sweet moulded and dipped pralines and a and this looks set to continue. chocolate entremet. A common mistake is the I dont like off-the wall flavours oversweetening of chocolate-based in my chocolate and Im a stickler desserts. Too much sugar will for simplicity. When youre working greatly inhibit the bitter and fruity rediscovery: white with high-quality chocolate it pays to notes that characterise high-quality and milk chocolate are back in vogue keep the matches straightforward as it chocolate, counsels James Petrie, head showcases the chocolate better, he says. of creative development at The Fat Duck William Curley, who founded his Group and the UKs judge at the 2011 eponymous chocolate shop in 2004 after working World Chocolate Masters. in the restaurant sector under the likes of Pierre Tying in with the wider-restaurant Koffmann and Marco Pierre White, agrees. scene is a DIY movement that sees some The foundation of what I do is quite traditional, chocolatiers going as far as making it is possible to over-innovate in this field. I dont their own couverture. Sir Hans Sloanes like complication, he says. McCarrick was the first UK chocolatier Curleys products are simple, clean but to invest in a small-scale conching occasionally unusual, utilising specialist Japanese [a process to refine chocolates texture and flavour] machine, and now produces his own chocolate varieties using cocoa paste sourced directly Crackers: Bill McCarricks playful from plantation. take on Easter eggs McCarrick is also working with Simon taste of japan: yamazaki single Jenkins, head pastry malt whisky chef at The Dorchester Collection-owned Coworth Park in Ascot, Berkshire, on a range of chocolate flavoured with ingredients from the hotels immediate surroundings. Our first chocolate is flavoured with hay, McCarrick explains. We get it cleaned and sterilised and add it to the chocolate during the conching process. It took a while to get it right. Add too much hay and its a bit like eating a chocolate bar in a gerbil cage.
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Meet the Callebaut range

Barry Callebaut offers a huge range of products, but this guide to the firms key products is a good starting point
Finest Belgian Chocolates
Callebauts excellence in chocolate has become a global reference. Often imitated, never equalled: these four chocolates stem from a great Belgian tradition in chocolate making and have become the choice of many professionals the world over. From home-made pralines to desserts or sauces you can always count on these chocolates, which are all produced with 100% Belgian craftsmanship. All four are made with the finest cocoa beans, natural bourbon vanilla and 100% pure cocoa butter. Callebaut is one of the few chocolate makers to select, roast and grind cocoa beans itself, and the result is a range of chocolate with an extremely fine texture and an exceptionally balanced taste. Callebauts Finest Belgian Chocolates will help you work quickly and efficiently to achieve a perfect end result. For more about these and the other products in our range, along with how to use them, recipe ideas and much more, visit www.callebaut.com Strong 70-30-38NV (dark) Dark and extra bitter taste with a pronounced chocolate flavour Select 811NV (dark) Dark and balanced cocoa taste. The most widely used and versatile chocolate recipe in the world Select 823NV (milk) Milk with rich cocoa and caramel taste. Well balanced in cocoa flavour and sweetness Select W2NV (white) White with balanced taste. The world standard white chocolate with widespread taste acceptability

With these four Callebaut chocolates you can really do everything. The 70-30-38NV dark chocolate, for example, has a particular intensity yet possesses a pleasant balance between bitter and sweet. It gives that extra strong taste to chocolate fondant and chocolate sauces.
Julie Sharp, UK Academy technical and development chef

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KEY PRoducts

Origine chocolate - The extraordinary taste

Each of our Origine chocolates is made with rare and aromatic cocoa beans from one specific country or region. Besides their overwhelming chocolate taste, youll discover hints of herbs, flowers or fruits typical of the soil and unique environment in which the cocoa was grown. Origine enables you to make your desserts stand out with an authentic and sophisticated chocolate taste. Origine is ideal for chefs that want to explore exceptional new flavours and liven up their dessert offering.

Dark Origines

Chocolate Mousses
Callebaut presents three chocolate mousses (dark, milk and white) with a sensational taste and - for maximum convenience - supplied in powder mix form. Each is made with the highest amount of chocolate on the market. Simply mix with one litre of milk, beat for five minutes, pipe and chill for two hours. The result? A sensational taste for your customers and unrivalled convenience for you.

How to store chocolate properly

Chocolate is sensitive to humidity, odours and, if in contact with air and light, oxidation. Chocolate should be protected against light and air and stored in a cool dry place, at a constant temperature between 12C and 20C. Always ensure that the packaging used to store chocolate is properly sealed.

Ecuador (CHD-R731EQU) A very strong aroma, giving impressions of garden angelica, liquorice and banana. Also very spicy. 70% cocoa Sao Thom (SAOTHOME) The aroma is slightly spicy, with roast touches and impressions of coffee and blackberries. 70% cocoa Ghana (CHD-P70GHA) A rich, spicy yet at the same time fruity character with a great deal of variety. Hints of morello cherries and roasted nuts. 70% cocoa Madagascar (CHD-Q67MAD) A powerful taste. Hints of blueberry, liquorice and coffee. 67% cocoa Grenade (GRENADE) Very mild, with hints of hibiscus and raspberries. 60% cocoa

Milk Origines
Arriba (CHM-Q415AR) Mild, buttery chocolate with hints of yoghurt and hazelnut. 39% cocoa, 25.5% milk Java (JAVA) A very pale colour and hints of vanilla and caramel. 32% cocoa, 20.9% milk

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Careful regulation of Heating and Cooling is essential to temper chocolate correctly

A guide to keeping your temper

The chocolate tempering process is essential for a large number of chocolate preparations and recipes
Simply melting solid chocolate is not enough for it to retain its qualities when it is used in applications such as the making of small chocolates and chocolate decorations. On resetting, properly tempered chocolate will retain its gloss, texture and snap cleanly. If the chocolate is melted in the normal way (between 40C and 45C) then left to cool to working temperature, the finished product will not be glossy. If correctly tempered the cocoa butter is held throughout the chocolate in a stable crystalline form, and this can only be achieved through careful regulation of the heating and cooling process. The three key factors when
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tempering are time, temperature and movement. It is also important to note that the working temperature of dark chocolate is approximately 32C, while its approximately 30C for white chocolate and milk chocolate. The best way to ensure perfect results every time is to use a reliable method. Method 1:

Tempering using a tempering stone

The most common method for tempering chocolate 1. Melt the chocolate at a temperature between 40C and 45C in a double boiler or melting pan. 2. Pour two thirds of the melted chocolate onto a

Tempering

cool surface granite is best. 3. Keep the chocolate moving by stirring continually with a spatula and a scraper. 4. Continue to do so until the chocolate cools slightly (by 4C to 5C) and starts to thicken as the cocoa butter starts to crystallise. You will see that peaks are formed when the chocolate is allowed to fall from the spatula 5. Pour the pre-crystallised chocolate into the rest of the melted chocolate and stir until it forms an even mixture. 6. The chocolate is now ready to work with. However, if the chocolate is too thick, reheat it gently until it becomes liquid again but remains pre-crystallised. To test, put the tip of a knife into the chocolate. If the chocolate is correctly tempered, it will harden evenly within three minutes at room temperature (20C). Method 2:

callets at ambient temperature. 3. Stir the chocolate well to ensure the dispersion of the stable crystals of the callets. If the callets melt very quickly the temperature is too hot, add more callets and continue stirring. 4. The chocolate will thicken slightly, at which point it is ready to work with. Method 3:

Pre-crystallisation in the microwave

Tempering by seeding
A slightly faster method that requires a melting pan with a thermostat 1. Melt the chocolate in a melting pan with the thermostat to 45C. 2. Lower the thermostat (to 32C for dark chocolate or 30C for white chocolate and milk chocolate) and immediately add 20% additional

A very quick method that is ideal when only a small amount of chocolate is required 1. Pour some callets into a plastic or glass bowl. 2. Put the bowl into the microwave and melt the callets at 800 to 1000 Watts. 3. Take the callets out of the microwave every 15 to 20 seconds and stir well to ensure that the temperature is evenly distributed to avoid scorching. 4. Repeat this procedure until the chocolate has almost all melted. Some small pieces of callet should still be visible in the bowl. 5. Remove from the microwave and stir the chocolate well, until all the pieces of callet have disappeared Peaks are formed as Cocoa Butter starts and a slightly thickened even liquid to Crystallise has been obtained.

Trouble-shooting
How to check pre-crystallisation To check pre-crystallisation, spread a tiny amount of chocolate on the tip of a knife or on a piece of paper. If the chocolate is properly tempered, it should harden evenly within 3 minutes at an ambient temperature between 18C and 20C, and it should have a good shine. If it does not, continue tempering. What to do if the chocolate becomes too thick After a certain amount of time, the tempered chocolate may start to thicken rapidly. This is called over-crystallisation and is caused by the sudden, rapid swelling of the cocoa butter crystals. Over-crystallised chocolate imparts less shine to the finished product and its shrinkage force is too weak for some applications. It also becomes more difficult to remove air bubbles. To correct, raise the temperature of the melted chocolate by adding more melted chocolate or reheat the chocolate slightly in the microwave. Reheat the chocolate in small stages, not abruptly, so that it becomes as liquid as before, whilst the cocoa butter crystals remain. It is also wise to stir the chocolate regularly because crystallisation mostly takes place on the surface forming a skin. For more chocolate trouble-shooting advice head to page 15

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Power plates
Ten ways to make your chocolate creations look as good as they taste
1. When making chocolate garnishes, always temper the chocolate first
Many (perhaps even the majority of ) restaurant chefs make chocolate-based garnishes without tempering the product first. This makes for a dull, lifeless look and poor texture, lacking the pleasing snap that properly tempered chocolate has. Tempering small amounts of chocolate is actually very easy. Check out page 8 for details.

2. Avoid clichs
Kumquats, a slice of kiwi with the skin on and an unripe air-freighted strawberry split in half all signal a lamentable lack of effort, yet are commonplace in the restaurant sector. Plan garnishes well ahead of a dish coming on order and make sure all fruit is ripe, appropriately crime against garnish: kiwi fruit with the skin prepared and most on shows a lack of effort importantly adds something to the dish.

4. Ban inedible garnish

Dont be tempted to use whole spices such as cinnamon sticks, star anise and vanilla pods. They might all be ingredients that are associated with desserts but if theyre not
aint no topping us now: callebauts rtu products help chefs garnish plates quickly

3. Consider RTU products

Callebaut offers a large range of ready-to-use (RTU) products to help chefs garnish plates quickly and easily. The selection features everything from basic, grated chocolate and chocolate curls to intricate chocolate flowers. The firms bestsellers in the restaurant sector are Dark Chocolate Flavour Topping (TOD-6022), True Caramel Topping (TOF-6042CARA) and Red Currant and Raspberry Topping (TOF-60004RF). The range is available in 1kg bottles and suitable for both cold and hot use.
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chocolate garnishes
7. Garnish dishes to add to the eating experience
Try not to garnish just for the sake of it. For example, acidic fruit garnishes can provide a welcome contrast to a particularly rich dish. In fact its better not to think in terms of garnishes at all consider them as necessary parts of the dish that also provide aesthetic relief.

8. Create your own simple chocolate garnishes

pud looking: use edible garnishes such as dried and fresh fruit

Although ready-made products are available (see no 3), there are a range of simple chocolate decorations that all kitchens can easily make. Try grating chocolate with a microplane grater and sprinkling over the plate or use a vegetable peeler to produce rustic curls from blocks of chocolate. Chocolate can also be piped onto a Silpat baking mat or similar non-stick material, left to dry and peeled off to produce intricate shapes. Just make sure the chocolate is tempered first for a shiny look and improved texture.

9. Think about tableware

edible they have no business being on the plate. Consider candied nuts and dried and fresh fruit as alternatives. Choose simple tableware of the appropriate size that goes with your creations. Desserts are an area where chefs can experiment, so consider glass, slate and terracotta alongside porcelain.

5. Learn the mini piping-bag trick

You dont need to use proper piping bags for chocolate squiggles and swirls. Simply make a triangle out of greaseproof paper and hold it with your left hand at the middle of the longest side and with the right hand at the corner on the opposite side. Now move your left hand over to the right corner and curl it over to the top corner, so that it forms a cone. Fill the improvised piping bag and snip off the end when ready to use.

less is more: keep the number of elements on the plate to a minimum

6. Use glue to keep things in position on the plate

Remember that elements can be fixed to the plate using either caramel, melted chocolate or dulce de leche. This practice is especially useful for banqueting services and restaurants where plates need to travel large distances to get to the customer.

10. Keep it simple

Chefs have a tendency to get carried away with piping bagsand squirty cream. Unless you really know what youre doing, keep to one type of sauce and keep the number of elements on the plates to a minimum. Remember, less is nearly always more.
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Recipes for sweet success

a selection of fool-proof chocolate recipes that showcase taste, skill and versatility
Chocolate fondant
makes four ramekins Ingredients 100g Callebaut 703038NV dark chocolate 100g butter 2 eggs 2 egg yolks 50g caster sugar 30g flour
Method

Quick chocolate sauce

Ingredients

100g cream 100g Callebaut 811NV Dark Chocolate

Method

1. Melt the butter and chocolate together slowly over a bain-marie 2. Whisk the eggs, egg yolks and sugar together until light and fluffy 3. Quickly fold the chocolate into the egg mix 4. Fold in the flour 5. Allow the mixture to set before piping into buttered ramekins 6. Bake in the oven at 1800C for eight minutes
Gooey goodness: Chocolate fondant

1. Place both ingredients into a small microwaveable dish 2. Heat for 15 seconds at 800W 3. Stir 4. Microwave for a further 10 seconds 5. Stir and use

White chocolate mousse

Ingredients

125g+300g single cream (18% to 20% fat content) 155g Callebaut White Chocolate W2NV 75g Boiron passion fruit pure 75g pasteurised egg white
Method

1. Bring 125g of the cream to the boil 2. Pour over the chocolate 3. Stir to emulsify to make a ganache 4. Stir in the rest of the ingredients and strain 5. Pour the mixture into a siphon, pressurise with two N20 cartridges 6. Chill in the fridge for service

Chocolate Truffles
Ingredients

125g butter at room temperature 250g Callebaut Milk Chocolate 823NV Callebaut Dark Strong Chocolate 70-30-38NV (for enrobing) Chocolate shavings
Method

1. Melt the chocolate and leave to cool to 35C 2. Stir in the softened butter and aerate
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chocolate creations

dark delight: quick chocolate sauce

3. Pipe out into the desired shape and leave to set overnight 4. Dip truffles in pre-crystallised Callebaut 811NV and roll in the chocolate shavings

Baileys Caramel Truffles

Ingredients

750g sugar 130g glucose 540g whipping cream 35% 520g Callebaut 823NV Milk Chocolate Select 200g Baileys 20g whisky Moulded small milk chocolate shells made with Callebaut 823NV Milk Chocolate
Method

2. Dry-caramelise the sugar and glucose to a light caramel, incorporate the boiled cream 3. Pour the cream and caramel mixture onto the chocolate and homogenise 4. Stir in the whisky 5. Pipe into prepared milk chocolate shells and leave to crystallise overnight 6. Close the moulded chocolates with crystallised chocolate

tips truffles: alcohol filled chocolates

1. Bring the cream to the boil

essential guide to chocolate | restaurant | 13

chocolate creations
Chocolate millefeuille with nougatine and apricots Nougatine
Ingredients

Puff pastry
Method

32g milk 78g butter 32g glucose 92g sugar 2g pectin 187g nibbed almonds 8g Callebaut Cocoa Powder CP-666
Method

1. Roll out 500g ready-made puff pastry to a 2cm thickness to fit a 40x60cm baking tray 2. Transfer to a clean 40x60cm baking tray by wrapping the pastry around the rolling pin 3. Prick all over with a fork 4. Relax for two hours 5. Cut into three strips lengthwise and bake at 230C until golden brown 6. Allow to cool
Cest Magnifique: Chocolate millefeuille

1. Mix the sugar and pectin together 2. Bring the milk, butter, glucose, sugar and pectin to the boil 3. Cook to a light golden caramel 4. Stir in warm nibbed almonds and cocoa powder. 5. Pour on to a large non-stick baking sheet 6. Spread out evenly 7. Allow to set

Chantilly Chocolate Cream

Ingredients

250g whipping cream 75g Callebaut 811NV Dark Chocolate

Method

1. Bring the cream to the boil 2. Add the chocolate and blend until smooth 3. Allow to cool for two hours 4. Aerate, taking care not to over whip

Assembling the finished pastry

Stewed Apricots
Ingredients

500g fresh apricots 120g caster sugar 10g vanilla sugar 1 tbsp of water
Method

1. Place the stoned apricots and other ingredients in a saucepan 2. Cook slowly together to soften the apricots
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1. Pick the best strip of cooked puff pastry for the top of the finished millefeuille 2. Spread one strip of cooked puff pastry with the Chantilly chocolate cream 3. Place on a strip of cooked puff pastry 4. Spread with a thin layer of Chantilly chocolate cream 5. Sprinkle with pieces of nougatine 6. Layer with stewed apricots 7. Place on the last strip of cooked puff pastry 8. Optional: Decorate with chocolate glac and decorations

TIps & training

Troubleshooting
Q: I have white or grey colouration of my chocolate A: Check you are tempering correctly using one of the methods within this guide. Check your cooling temperature. The ideal temperature for cooling chocolate used for moulding work is 10% cooler than room temperature. Chocolate for coating work should be cooled between 15C and 18C. Q: I have cracks on my products A: As above, check your cooling temperature. Q: I have dull stains on my products A: Check your cooling temperature and refrigeration temperature, which should be 10C to 12C with no humidity. Q: Can I swap dark chocolate for milk or

From splitting ganaches to unsightly marks, Barry Callebaut dissects some common chocolate problems
white chocolate in my recipes? A: No, because of different ingredient compositions in the chocolate. In most cases you will need to adjust your recipes. For example, the working temperature of dark chocolate is different to that of milk or white chocolate. Q: My ganache is splitting A: This is usually caused by working at too high a temperature or by a recipe imbalance, specifically too much fat. If the temperature is too hot, cool it and introduce movement with whisk or machine. If the recipe is imbalanced add a small amount of warm boiled water or alcohol and then re-emulsify. Q: My mousse is splitting A: You need to add your whipped cream to your base mousse in stages to avoid shocking it.

The Chocolate Academy

Barry Callebauts Chocolate Academy provides world-class training for chefs of all levels
Callebaut Chocolate Academies are training centres for artisans and professionals who want to improve skills in chocolate. With 12 academies worldwide, more than 500 craftsmen attend courses every week. The UK Chocolate Academy, based in banbury, Oxfordshire, is run by Beverley Dunkley and Julie Sharp. Purposebuilt and state-of-the-art, its eight individual work stations allow for one-to-one tuition. It is situated adjacent to the Barry
chocolate academy head beverley duncan helps chefs improve their skills and knowledge

Callebaut factory allowing easy access for tours. Our courses have been designed to offer practical and theoretical help for the novice chocolatier through to the chocolate artisan, pastry chef, confectioner, baker, caterer

and lecturer, explains Duncan. We are extremely proud to have distinguished chefs from both the UK and Europe to help run our courses. All have extensive knowledge and experience in the field of chocolate. We would welcome the opportunity to share with you our expertise to expand and fulfil your chocolate creativity. To view the full range of courses and sign up to the Academy newsletter visit www.chocolate-academy.com or call 01295 224 700

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