Straight Talk AVLON

About Conditioning...
Discover the causes of hair damage and
how to minimize it

Uncover the facts about the different types

of conditioners and what they do for -
th
.C:)
Learn e proper way to protect, repatr
and create fabulous finishes!
The following series of four articles were
wrinen by Ali N. Syed, president and master
chemist of AvIan Indusuies, Inc. They
originally appeared in ShopTdk magazine to
assist the professional hairstylisr in providing
the very bese in hair care.
This is the fust segment of an Avian
Professional Education Series, with other
informative issues to follow. For easy reference,
you may want to plare this brochure, and the
others to come, in a notebook.
PROPER CONDmONING
What is meant by
the word "condition-
ing'" Basically, con-
ditioning means
attempting to restore
or maintain the ten-
sile strength of hair
so that it can with-
stand the effects of
combing, brushing,
treatments,
especially over-
processing,
cannot be
reversed by
any kind of
conditioning
treatments.
However, such
damage can be minimized with
certain state-of-the-art conditioning
relaxers and permanem wave sys-
tems available in the marketplace.
iog the hair to some extent.
There are four basic causes of
hair damage: mechanical (comb-
ing/styling), shampooing, weather
and chemical treatments. Each of
these causes will be discussed fur-
ther in future issues of ShopTalk.
Hair care professionals, whether
they're stylists or chemists, are
always trying to find
ways of eliminating or Damage caused
at least minimizing the
effects of hair damage. by chemIcal
The most effective treatments...can
not be reversed
ing and weather-related by... condition-
hair damage is proper ing treatments.
conditioning. Damage
caused by chemical
CAUSES of HAIR DAMAGE
The Right Way to
Condition Hair
Part I
by Ali N. Syed
We, as hair care professionals,
are engaged in the art and science
of beautifying hair; a notable pur-
suit that has been around for cen-
turies. Modern techniques of hair
beautification range from the sim-
ple acts of shampooing, combing
and brushing, to chemically treat-
ing hair with relaxers, permanent
waves and/or h.3ir coloring.
Whenever excessively curly hair
is modified to a relaxed (straight-
ened) or permanently waved state,
we gain better control of hair; but
in the process, we end lip damag-
(Continued on reverse side.. .)
SHOl'TALK/FEBRUARY/MARCH JOURNAL 1990
I
j
- Conditioning the Hair, Pan I con't.
TUIPER.\Tl:RE YS ,\.,\101::-''-
Of
ADSOIUlED TilE !lAIR
TIME
HEAT
Ali N. Sycd is president and mas-
ter chemist, Avian Industries, Inc.
As the temperature of hair is
increased, the greater the possibili-
ty of conditioners penetrating the
cortex. As shown in Figure 1> pen-
etration is much greater when hair
is about 60-degrees centigrade
than when it is at the normal envi-
ronmental temperature of 25-
degrees centigrade. A temperature
of 60-degrees centigrade is easily
achieved at the medium setting of
an electric heat cap.
when they can do the most good.
Even when the chemicals are
first rinsed from the hair, the pH
declines' only partially (down to
about 10.0 with relaxers and 7.0
with permanent waves). The hair
is still alkaline and the cuticles
remain partially open. This repre-
sents the second best opportunity
to condition the hair once again
before completely closing the cuti-
cles with neutralizing shampoos or
solutions. But remember, condi-
tioning at these times can only be
accomplished with systems that
provide such features.
"
,
FIGURE 2
"


TI.\lE IN MI:-'l:Tf.S '\
,
As the time of contact between
hair and the conditioner increases,
the degree of conditioner penetra-
tion into the cortex increases. As
Figure 2 illustrates, the condition-
iog action continues to
I Tlllt:\'$.UlOl'i''''' be productive up to
O.c,O'"lJl... ONF.K
,\HSOIWt:llINTm; U,\l1I 25-30 minutes. After
that time, absorption
reaches its maximum.
It is safe, therefore, to
conclude that condi-
tioners should be left
on the hair, with a
plastic cap, for 25-30
minutes. The use of a
hood dryer will
enhance the condition-
ing effect.
-2-
ELEVATED pH
The higher the pH level of hair,
the more widley open are the cuti-
cles. Although hair is in its most
vulnerable state under these con-
ditions, the opportunity for condi-
tioners to penetrate deep into the
cortex layer of the hair is at its
greatest. (When cuticles are
closed, it is difficult for condition-
ers to penetrate in this way. If they
do, an extended amount of time is
required.)
When relaxers or permanent
wave solutions are applied to hair,
the pH becomes very high (about
13.0 with relaxers and 9.5 with
permanent waves). Some premium
brands have protective and
restorative conditioners built right
into the chemical systems so that
they can go to work in the hair,
only on fine, limp hair or badly
damaged hair. Conditioners con-
taining softening agents, humec-
tants and highly concentrated
emollients, such as creme condi-
tioners and moisturizers, should be
used on medium to coarse hair or
hair that is very dry.
To achieve a maximized result,
sufficient amounts of conditioning
agents must penetrate deep into
the cortex of the hair. This occurs
only under one or a combination
of the following circumstances: an
elevated pH, heat and time.
"
..
'" "
11
shampooing, weather and, to
some extent, chemical treatments.
It also involves the giving of cer-
tain cosmetic properties represen-
tative of healthy hair.
The following properties of hair
are the goals and evidences of
effective conditioning: Ease of wet
and dry combing; elimination of
static electricity; minimal hair loss
during wet and dry combing; soft
and silky feel; minimization of
Conditioners porosity; extra
sheen (due to the
containing tight realignment
excessive of cuticles);
amounts 01' improved body,
:J and enhanced
proteins... manageability.
should ... be Hair chemists
have an ongoing
used onfine, mission to formu-
limp hair... late conditioners
that address these
hair properties.
It's important to keep in mind
that the conditioning needs of hair
fibers vary according to their tex-
ture. For example, fine hair
requires increased body, while
coarse hair can use added soft-
ness. It's apparent, then, that one
type of conditioner cannot be
used on all hair textures with the
best results.
Conditioners containing exces-
sive amounts of proteins, such as
reconstructors, should be used
FIGURE I
SHOI'TALK/FEBRUARY/MARCH JOURNAL 1990