Академический Документы
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Культура Документы
Jill Salen
Acknowledgements
C o m p i l i n g these patterns w o u l d not have been possible w i t h o u t the support of the museums I have visited. I w o u l d l i k e to thank in particular P h i l i p W a r r e n ; A l e x D a v e y ; C a r o l i n e L o c k w o o d and C h a r l o t t e M o b b s o f Leicestershire C o u n t y C o u n c i l M u s e u m Services ( S y m i n g t o n C o l l e c t i o n ) ; A l t h e a M a c k e n z i e o f the H e r e f o r d M u s e u m ; R o s e m a r y H a r d e n o f the F a s h i o n M u s e u m , B a t h ; C h r i s t i n e Stevens ( n o w o f B e a m i s h O p e n A i r M u s e u m ) ; E l e n P h i l l i p s o f S t Fagans N a t i o n a l H i s t o r y M u s e u m , Wales; B r i g i t Lapsley and D a n i e l l e Sprecher o f C o l c h e s t e r M u s e u m ; R i c h a r d Blakey. Jean and Pawel N o w a k and V i n a C o o k e have been k i n d e n o u g h t o a l l o w m e take patterns from corsets h e l d in their private collections. M a n y others have helped sustain and encourage me: Susan H a r d y ; Cissian R e e s ; E l i z a b e t h F r i e n d s h i p ; the R o y a l W e l s h C o l l e g e o f M u s i c and D r a m a ; D o n M o f f a t ; M a r y B r i t t a i n ; Joanna and R e b e c c a Salen. M o r e i n f o r m a t i o n can be f o u n d at w w w . j i l l s a l e n . c o m .
First published in the United Kingdom in 2008 by Batsford 10 Southcombe Street London W 1 4 ORA An imprint of Anova Books Company L t d Copyright Batsford Text Jill Salen The moral rights of the author have been asserted. A l l rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. ISBN-13: 9781906388010 A C I P catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Contents
Acknowledgements 4 Introduction 6 Patterns
Finely W h a l e - B o n e d C o r s e t , c. 1750 B r o w n Jean C o r s e t , 1780 Pregnancy C o r s e t , 1 7 8 0 - 8 5 B r o w n Jean C o r s e t , 1790 L i n e n C o r s e t , 1790 Pink J u m p s , 1798 26 30 34 38 42 22 14 18 10
Projects
W h i t e L i n e n J u m p s , c. 1790 G i r l ' s W h i t e Jean C o r s e t , 1900 1 02 1 08
Techniques 114 Further Reading 124 Useful Addresses 126 List of Suppliers Index 128
58 62 66 70
127
Introduction
My interest in corsets can be traced back to the 1950s when my grandmother and greatgrandmother were still wearing them. I was fascinated by corsets; I did not understand why my grandmother and great-grandmother wore them, and my initial curiosity has led to this book.
Terminology
Throughout this book 1 refer to the garments as 'corsets'. Originally they were referred to as 'a pair of bodies','stays' or as 'corsets'. A 'pair of bodies' was an early term, most usually used when the garment laced at the back and the front. 'Stays' could lace at the back and/or the front, and later a 'corset' w o u l d usually lace at the back and have a split-busk fastening at the centre front. Earher corsets used a single lace to close the garment, and later ones had a double criss-crossing lace, w h i c h was laced so that the wearer could tighten or loosen her corset herself Corsets that only closed at the back meant that the wearer needed help to dress.
6 Introduction
Occupation: this w o u l d have affected what was w o r n . In the 1950s and 1960s my grandmother wore her older, more comfortable corsets in the m o r n i n g when she cleaned the house and changed for the afternoon when she w o u l d visit and be visited. She referred to this as 'breaking-in her stays'. Availability of source materials: the properties and qualities of source materials, such as whale bone, would affect the style of corset. T h e appearance and use of metal eyelets (French holes) after 1828 meant that tighter lacing was possible. Before that date, hand-worked eyelets w o u l d have torn if put under too much strain. Occasion: specific styles of corsets were w o r n for particular occasions. For example, there were corsets specifically for court dress, riding and (in the late 19th century) sportswear.
Construction
These days costume makers rarely have the time to sew a corset by hand. If the corset is to be seen, this book w i l l aid the maker in reconstructing the garment as far as time and budget allows. If the corset is not to be seen, it w i l l help the maker to achieve the correct silhouette for the period.
Introduction 7
W h e n constructing corsets I make toiles of corset patterns, near and around the correct date, without altering it to fit the contemporary figure. I then find someone who fits the corset, observing how the corset affects the wearer's posture and what it does to her figure. T h e patterns in this book are presented for the maker - make o f them what you will.
8 Introduction
The industrial R e v o l u t i o n in the 19th century brought the w o r k i n g woman a disposable income for the first time. She spent her money on keeping up with fashion, often emulating her mistress.
So the garments in museums do not always give us quite the w i n d o w on the past that we might hope for Usually these garments are small in size, making us think that people in the past were a lot smaller than we are now, when in fact often the garment was simply too small to cut down for someone else. Women have w o r n corsets as underpinnings for more than 400 years. In the past they were a necessary foundation under clothes, allowing women to have a fashionable silhouette - refining the waist and supporting the back and bust. W o m e n have not w o r n corsets as a fashion aid since the 1950s and at that time both my grandmother and great-grandmother were still wearing them. They would not have felt dressed without their corsets - not because they were seeking to achieve a more youthful silhouette, but because the corsets formed part of their armour of respectability. M o d e r n women are secure in the knowledge that it is not how you wear your clothes that determines whether you are respectable or not, but the way in w h i c h you behave. It is interesting that in 2008 - when 51 per cent of the population is female, when we have had the vote since 1928, equal pay since the 1970s and where we feel more than entitled to have a career and children - that we are still choosing to wear corsets, usually visible for all to see.
Introduction 9
Opposite: This corset, dated to around 1750, is held at the Colchester and Ipswich M u s e u m , U K .
Patterns 11
12 Patterns
14 Patterns
Patterns 15
16 Patterns
Patterns 17
Opposite: This pregnancy corset is dated 1780-85. It is held in a private costume collection belonging to Jean and Pawel Nowak.
Patterns 19
20 Patterns
Opposite: Corset from 1790, held Hereford M u s e u m , U K . These photographs show the outside of th( corset (top) and the inside (bottom)
Patterns
24 Patterns
26 Patterns
Patterns 27
28 Patterns
30 Patterns
Opposite: This 1798 corset features an alteration in the front. It adds inches to the garment and the careful fastening at the front w o u l d allow access for a baby to feed. This corset is held at Colchester and Ipswich Museum, U K .
Patterns 31
32 Patterns
Patterns 33
O p p o s i t e : This corset, from the 1830s, is held in the Symington Collection at Leicestershire C o u n t y C o u n c i l M u s e u m . C o r d i n g turns out to be evident to a greater extent on the corsets from 1830-1920 than I realized before collating these patterns.
Patterns 35
36 Patterns
Patterns 37
Opposite: This corset is in the private collection o f V i n a Cooke, w h o owns the Museum o f DQUS and Bygone C h i l d h o o d at Newark in Nottinghamshire.
Patterns 39
Opposite: This 1860 corset is from the Symington Collection at Leicestershire C o u n t y C o u n c i l Museum, although Phillip Warren, curator of the Symington C o l l e c t i o n , does not think that this corset was made by Symington. T h e Symington C o l l e c t i o n includes many corsets or half corsets from other sources, presumably acquired to learn from their competitors.
Patterns 43
Patterns 45
Opposite: Stay band from the 1880s, held in the Symington Collection at Leicestershire C o u n t y C o u n c i l Museum, U K .
Patterns 47
48 Patterns
Opposite: 1885 corset from the Symington Collection held by Leicestershire M u s e u m Services.
Patterns 51
FRONT (A)
FRONT (U)
FRONT (O)
FRONT (D)
l^attcrns
Opposite: T h i s silk j a c q u a r d r i d i n g corset f r o m 1890 is h e l d a t Hereford M u s e u m , U K . T h e photographs s h o w the front o f the corset (top) and the back o f the corset ( b o t t o m ) .
56 Patterns
Patterns 57
Opposite: 1890 corset from the Symington Collection at Leicestershire County C o u n c i l Museum, U K . B y 1890 Symington's had realized the value of producing an attractive garment fit for purpose. This corset was sold in vast numbers over many years to ordinary women w h o had to work hard when wearing their corsets.
Patterns 59
60 Patterns
Patterns 61
62 Patterns
K h a k i C o r d e d Corset, 1890-1900
W i t h k h a k i - c o l o u r e d lasting as the o u t e r fabric and a beige silica l i n i n g , this corset uses c o r d i n g as an attractive feature over the hips a n d in the bust gussets. It is s i m i l a r to a m u c h h i g h e r - q u a l i t y corset p r o d u c e d by S y m i n g t o n s (see page 2), w h i c h has an attractive c o m b i n a t i o n of machine cording and quilting. T h i s is a small corset - bust 3 0 i n ( 7 6 c m ) , waist 21 in (53cm) and hips 3 2 i n (81cm) - a n d o n e w o u l d i m a g i n e that this corset was w o r n because c o n v e n t i o n dictated that a corset s h o u l d be w o r n , n o t for reasons of c o n t r o l . It is possible that the c o r d i n g acted as a layer of p a d d i n g to enhance a slight figure. H a n d flossing has been added to strengthen the apex of the gusset in a l i g h t - c o l o u r e d thread a n d c r e a m c o t t o n m a c h i n e - m a d e lace has b e e n attached over the top edge. T h e r e is a v e r y w i d e a n d s o l i d split-busk fastening almost 1in (2.5cm) w i d e each side, s u p p o r t e d by a d o u b l e busk of 1/2in (3.8cm) w i d e . T h e w o o d e n o r steel busk f i t s the p o c k e t loosely. T h e strength o f the fastening seems o u t of p r o p o r t i o n to the scale of the corset w i t h its 2 1 i n (53cm) waist.
Patterns 63
Patterns 65
Opposite: This corset is part of the author's corset collection and is dated 1890-1910. It was bought from a Newark Antiques Fair in Nottingham in 2005.
Patterns 67
68 Patterns
Patterns 69
70 Patterns
Opposite: The Symingtons "Pretty Housemaid" Corset (see page 58) came w i t i i a double busk to cope with 'constant stooping', so very possibly this pretty corset, c . 1890 from St Fagans National History M u s e u m , was actually designed for a working woman rather than a lady.
Patterns 71
72 Patter
Patterns
74 Patterns
Patterns 75
76 Patterns
Patterns 77
78 Patterns
W h i t e R i b b o n Corset, 1900-10
T h i s corset i s c o n s t r u c t e d w i t h 2 i n (5cm) w i d e l i n e n r i b b o n , a n d p l a i n w h i t e l i n e n that encases flat steel bones on the side seams, centre front and centre back. It had suspenders at the front that have b e e n cut off. T h i s corset reflects the g r o w i n g n e e d o f w o m e n t o have m o r e f r e e d o m o f m o v e m e n t w h i l e still w a n t i n g t o constrict their waists. W o m e n from the 1880s onwards were t a k i n g part in s p o r t i n g activities such as croquet, tennis, r o l l e r - s k a t i n g , ice skating, b a d m i n t o n , g o l f and eventually c y c l i n g . T h e R a t i o n a l Dress S o c i e t y was f o r m e d in 1881 to raise w o m e n ' s awareness o f h o w their lives were i m p e d e d b y the b u r d e n o f fashionable silhouettes. F a s h i o n has never g o n e h a n d - i n - h a n d w i t h l o g i c and c o m m o n sense, but i n 1900 w o m e n were o n the verge o f e x p e r i e n c i n g a freedom o f m o v e m e n t that they had n o t enjoyed for nearly a h u n d r e d years.
Patterns 79
80 Patterns
Patterns 81
82 Patterns
Patterns 83
84 Patterns
L o n g W h i t e Corset, 1914
M a d e from w h i t e m e r c e r i z e d c o t t o n w i t h a f i n e silk b o w ( n o w deteriorating) at the apex of the straight metal split busk at the centre front, this corset has metal bones t h r o u g h o u t and laces up at the back w i t h cross-lacing, s u p p o r t e d b y four bones either side o f the centre back. T h e side panels have a r i g i d set of six 1/4in (0.6cm) bones. T h e c o t t o n used for the h i p area is an even weave a n d durable, and suggests s u m m e r w e a r . T h e r e is a 2 i n (5cm) w i d e strongly w o v e n c o t t o n r i b b o n w i t h a pretty g e o m e t r i c a l and alternating flower pattern that forms the l o w bust c o n t r o l , suppressing the figure gently to achieve the softly flowing lines that were desirable in 1914. T h e r i b b o n is folded in h a l f to cover the split busk, and the holes for the ' l o o p s ' are cut t h r o u g h and n o t finished in any way. At the centre back the 2 i n (5cm) w i d e r i b b o n i s faced w i t h t w i l l r i b b o n o r fabric - there is a possibility that t w i l l is also present, h i d d e n u n d e r n e a t h the r i b b o n at the centre front. T h e top edge of this corset is closely m a c h i n e o v e r - l o c k e d , and the l o w e r edge is b o u n d w i t h t w i l l straight tape. T h e suspenders are from the side panels and either side of the centre-front fastening, presumably to help its d y n a m i c s , the suspenders p r e v e n t i n g the corset r i d i n g up w i t h wear.
Opposite: This 1914 corset is from the Symington Collection at Leicestershire C o u n t y C o u n c i l Museum, U K .
Patterns 87
Opposite: This 1917 corset is held in the Symington Collection at Leicestershire C o u n t y C o u n c i l Museum, U K .
Patterns 91
94 I'atterns
Dolls' Corsets
T h e s e doll's corsets (pages 9 4 - 1 0 1 ) are in the c o l l e c t i o n of H e r e f o r d M u s e u m Services and I c o u l d n o t resist i n c l u d i n g them. They l o o k deceptively easy t o achieve. T h i s w h i t e 1 9 t h - c e n t u r y e x a m p l e w o u l d have taught a y o u n g g i r l h o w to create a corset: assembling it in the r i g h t order, i n s e r t i n g the gussets a n d h a n d s e w i n g the eyelets. It is p r o b a b l y based o n the type o f corset w o r n i n 182040. T h e r e is t h o u g h t to be a l i n k b e t w e e n the w i t h and h o w this affects their p e r c e p t i o n i n society. T h e dolls o f 180050 resembled t h e m ; b y 1850 the j u v e n i l e dolls h a d b e e n dolls, w h i c h were shapely and corseted. type of dolls that girls play o f themselves and their role the girls w h o played w i t h replaced b y 'fashion-plate'
T h e s e 'fashion-plate d o l l s ' were i n f l u e n t i a l i n h e l p i n g the y o u n g girls o f the t i m e formulate their appearance and b e h a v i o u r i n the future, a n interesting t h o u g h t w h e n w e c o n s i d e r h o w p o p u l a r B a r b i e has been over recent decades.
Opposite and left: This doll's corset is held in the collection of Hereford M u s e u m Services and could have been used to teach a young girl how to make a corset. These photographs show the front of the corset (opposite) and the back (left).
Patterns 95
96 Patterns
Patterns 97
O p p o s i t e : This doll's corset, held in the collection of Hereford M u s e u m Services, shown closed (top) and opened out (bottom).
Patterns 99
100 Patterns
102 Projects
Projects 103
2.
3. 4. 5.
R e p e a t steps 1 and 2 to cut and j o i n the l i n i n g pieces. T r i m the seam allowances o n the l i n i n g t o 1 / 4 i n ( 6 m m ) . L a y out the m a i n corset, r i g h t side up. L a y the l i n i n g r i g h t side d o w n on top, a l i g n i n g the edges, a n d p i n and tack (baste) in place. B a c k s t i t c h a r o u n d the corset, t a k i n g a 5/8 in (1.5cm) seam allowance, a n d l e a v i n g b o t h C F edges o p e n s o that y o u can insert the front b o n i n g later. T u r n the corset o u t t h r o u g h o n e of the o p e n front edges. U s e a k n i t t i n g needle or similar t o o l to push o u t the c o r n e r s of the corset, p a y i n g particular attention to the tabs a l o n g the b o t t o m edge. W o r k r o u n d the edges o f the corset, r o l l i n g the fabric b e t w e e n y o u r fingers to make sure that the edge is c o m p l e t e l y t u r n e d out. T a c k a l o n g the gutters (seams) of the corset to align the fabric a n d l i n i n g seams. Secure the layers a r o u n d the edges w i t h stab stitch, l e a v i n g the t w o C F edges o p e n for the present.
6.
7. 8.
9.
106 Projects
10.
1 1 . T a c k (baste) w h e r e the b o n i n g channels w i l l go o n all panels, w i t h o u t t a c k i n g o n the actual channels t o a v o i d g e t t i n g t a c k i n g thread caught in the m a i n stitches. 12. B a c k s t i t c h the b o n i n g channels, adjusting the w i d t h to suit the b o n i n g y o u i n t e n d t o use. ( T h e r e was n o b o n i n g i n this corset. T h e channels were left o p e n , w h i c h m a y b e because the bones n e e d e d to be r e m o v e d for w a s h i n g to a v o i d creating rust marks.) * 13. S t i t c h the t w o rows o f b a c k s t i t c h o n either side o f the eyelets a t the C F o n each front piece. U s e a stiletto to create the eyelets at the CF a n d w o r k each o n e w i t h w h i p s t i t c h (see page 117). M a k e the eyelets for the front s h o u l d e r fastening too. Insert the bones a t the C F o n each front piece, t u r n i n the seam allowances and w h i p s t i t c h or backstitch the fabric to the l i n i n g . A d d stab s t i t c h i n g a l o n g these edges for consistency. Insert the r e m a i n i n g bones.
14.
15.
16. A d d the c o r d t o lace the corset. T h i s w o u l d have most l i k e l y have b e e n a single lace (see page 115). * The 'boning' channel on the bias of the front panel is a puzzle because there is no obvious entry point, although there is heavy darning at the lower edge of the channel, where the bones could have been slipped out and the darning done. Alternatively, the boning could have been added before the shoulder seam was stitched and the eyelets worked. Of course, the channel may never have held boning it could have been used simply to hold the layers together. I am going to presume that no boning was ever inserted. T h i s was a s i m p l e g a r m e n t , q u i c k l y made. Was it w o r n to nurse a baby? Was it all that the lady w o r e as a corset? O r , was it a 'corset' for the hottest days o f s u m m e r ?
108 Projects
Projects 109
3.
4.
5.
112 Projects
6.
P i n or tack (baste) each panel to its l i n i n g w i t h r i g h t sides o u t a n d edges m a t c h i n g to h o l d the layers together. O n each back p a n e l m a c h i n e three rows o f s t i t c h i n g t o f o r m the b o n i n g channels, adjusting the w i d t h to suit the b o n i n g y o u i n t e n d to use. Insert the b o n i n g . M a k e the eyelets as e x p l a i n e d on page 117. M a c h i n e stitch the lines for the c o r d i n g on the front and back panels.
7.
8. 9.
10.
U s i n g a mattress needle or o t h e r l o n g , sturdy needle, thread q u i l t i n g w o o l o r h e m p t h r o u g h the channels. W h e r e the c o r d i n g channels intersect on the back panels, push the needle t h r o u g h the l i n i n g fabric and cut o f f the excess w o o l . L a y the panels together in pairs w i t h the outer fabrics facing, m a t c h i n g the side seams. S t i t c h the side seams. To neaten the seam allowances on the lining side, leave the t o p layerof lining as it is b u t t r i m away all the o t h e r layers of the seam a l l o w a n c e to 1/2 in (1.3cm); t u c k the w i d e r l i n i n g layer over the others a n d stitch d o w n a l o n g the folded edge. F r o m the r i g h t side of the corset this seam l o o k s l i k e a b o n i n g c h a n n e l , but it isn't. C h e c k that the centre front a n d centre back of this corset are l e v e l w i t h each o t h e r a n d t h e n t r i m d o w n t o the actual f i n i s h e d level. U s e a 5/8 in (1.6cm) Petersham r i b b o n or a strong 1/2 in (1.3cm) t w i l l tape to b i n d the top and b o t t o m edges of the corset: starting on the inside of the corset, m a c h i n e the r i b b o n at the desired level, f o l d it over to the r i g h t side of the corset and m a c h i n e it again - this ensures that there is o n l y o n e r o w of m a c h i n i n g visible on the outside o f the corset.
11.
12.
13.
Projects 113
Techniques
Accessing patterns
T h e scale of these patterns is 1/2:1in, e x c e p t the d o l l s ' patterns, w h i c h are full sized. A l l measurements are in inches these corsets w o r k particularly w e l l w i t h i m p e r i a l measurements. T h e patterns can be accessed by o b t a i n i n g 1in squared graph paper and p l o t t i n g the patterns o u t , or it m a y be possible to enlarge t h e m on a photocopier. T h e patterns have n o seam allowances i n c l u d e d , as seam allowances w i l l d e p e n d on the maker's requirements, so some t h o u g h t s h o u l d be g i v e n to this before c u t t i n g out. On page 122 instructions are g i v e n for i n s e r t i n g a split-busk fastening i n t o a l i n e d corset; the m a k e r may be m o u n t i n g the o u t e r fabric on c o u t i l then m a k i n g u p the corset a s i f i t o n l y had o n e layer, i n w h i c h case e x t e n d the C F a n d C B b y 2 a n d 1 / 2 i n ( 6 3 m m ) , i n c o r p o r a t i n g the f a c i n g i n t o the b o d y o f the garment. To learn as m u c h as possible f r o m these patterns: 1 First p l o t a pattern. 2 A d d on the seam allowances. 3 C u t it out of a f i r m f e l t / c a l i c o a n d seam it up u s i n g a l o n g m a c h i n e stitch and m a t c h i n g balance points. 4 A t t a c h some fake l a c i n g * a n d any bones that seem c r u c i a l to the shape. *Fare lacing: two 15in (38cm) strips, each comprising eyelets supported by boning, which can be machined into a corset or toile for fitting. N e x t f i n d s o m e o n e w h o f i t s this corset. O b s e r v e h o w i t restricts her m o v e m e n t , w h a t it does to her bust and t h i n k about the g o w n that w i l l b e w o r n over it. T h e n consider h o w the f i g u r e o f the person w h o w i l l wear it differs f r o m the p e r s o n it actually fits. V e r y little a d v i c e can be g i v e n in a b o o k about h o w to deal w i t h this last step. L o o k at pictures of the p e r i o d and d e c i d e w h e r e it is most appropriate to e x t e n d or add in a panel. Points y o u must address are: D o e s the waist sit w h e r e it s h o u l d for the p e r i o d ? Is the n e c k l i n e correct for the p e r i o d ? D o e s the corset c o n t a i n the bust, so w h e n g o w n e d a c o r r e c t silhouette for the p e r i o d w i l l be achieved?
114 Techniques
Balance marks
B a l a n c e marks are a g u i d e to w h e r e seams s h o u l d m a t c h ; they are w o r t h m a r k i n g o n the pattern a n d then the fabric. W h e n the pattern has been p l o t t e d it is also useful to m a r k the ' t o p ' of each pattern and n u m b e r each pattern sequentially, as it is all t o o easy to get the panels i n the w r o n g o r d e r o r even upside d o w n .
Grain
M o s t patterns are d r a w n w i t h the vertical lines o f the graph paper e c h o i n g the d i r e c t i o n o f the grain o n the corset. O c c a s i o n a l l y the patterns do n o t fit on the page on those pattern pieces the c o r r e c t grain is m a r k e d w i t h a d o u b l e p o i n t e d a r r o w (see r i g h t ) .
Lacing
A l l the corsets f r o m c l 7 5 0 t o c l 8 6 0 are single laced (figure 1). C o r s e t s outside this p e r i o d have a split-busk fastening at the CF a n d they have a d o u b l e - l a c e d back (figure 2) to a l l o w the wearer of the corset to p u t on the g a r m e n t herself, fasten the split busk at the front, then get h o l d o f the laces a t the C B t o d r a w t h e m i n , and t h e n tie t h e m i n a b o w .
Threads
W h e n r e c o n s t r u c t i o n for o l d e r corsets i s b e i n g u n d e r t a k e n , l i n e n thread is the most suitable, but a general rule is to use synthetic threads for synthetic fabrics and natural threads for natural fabrics, such as silk, c o t t o n and l i n e n . T h r e a d can b e i m p r o v e d for s e w i n g b y w a x i n g i t ( d r a w i n g the cut thread over beeswax) before u s i n g it.
Backstitch
B a c k s t i t c h is a stitch that is q u i c k l y executed, w i t h an easy r h y t h m . It is made easier if the seamstress wears a t h i m b l e .
Saddle stitch
M a n y of the early corsets appear to have b e e n saddle stitched; this is a strong stitch, w h i c h p r o b a b l y came f r o m leather w o r k i n g . U s i n g t w o threaded needles at o n c e , p u s h i n g t h r o u g h the t w o or m o r e layers of fabric, alternately, ensures that o n e thread goes t h r o u g h the other o n e and l o c k s the threads together, p r e v e n t i n g t h e m f r o m r u n n i n g .
Stab stitch
Stab stitch is the same as b a c k s t i t c h i n g , but the stitch that is visible on the surface is the size of a p i n h e a d a n d these stitches have spaces b e t w e e n t h e m . U s e d o n the edges o f garments t o h o l d the layers i n place, it is b o t h a decorative a n d practical stitch.
116 Techniques
Worked eyelets
Eyelets are usually p o s i t i o n e d b e t w e e n t w o bones, but they can be on the edge of the corset. T h e y are usually executed w h e n the g a r m e n t is finished. T h e r e is the same n u m b e r of eyelets on b o t h sides of the corset, but they are usually ' d i s p l a c e d ' . T h i s means that, instead of the eyelets all l i n i n g u p w i t h their opposite h o l e , o n e o f the t o p o r b o t t o m eyelets i s not i n line. T h e t h e o r y is that, w h e n laced, the corset w i l l lie together evenly. W i t h some corsets, however, there is no displacement a n d those corsets lie evenly. If there is displacement on the o r i g i n a l corset, y o u are r e c o m m e n d e d to f o l l o w that displacement as the o r i g i n a l m a k e r p r o b a b l y k n e w best. W o r k e d eyelet holes are also used to tie s h o u l d e r straps to the corset and sometimes t o j o i n o n petticoats.
W h i p p e d eyelets
To create a h a n d - w o r k e d eyelet, first use a stiletto or a w l to push a h o l e t h r o u g h all the layers of fabric. A stiletto or a w l is i d e a l , but a n y t h i n g that can prise the threads of the g a r m e n t apart w i t h o u t b r e a k i n g t h e m is suitable. A stiletto was designed for this a c t i o n a n d examples can still be f o u n d in antique shops or markets, but be careful to b u y o n e w i t h a perfect p o i n t . Y o u can also b u y n e w ones in specialist shops. O n c e the h o l e has b e e n created, use a single w a x e d thread to oversew or w h i p the edges t i g h t l y practice makes perfect.
Buttonholed eyelets
O c c a s i o n a l l y a small metal or b o n e r i n g is used to strengthen the h o l e , w h i c h is then b u t t o n h o l e stitched rather than w h i p stitched. T h e c. 1598 corset pattern in Janet A r n o l d ' s Patterns of Fashion is executed this way (see F u r t h e r R e a d i n g , page 124). N o n e o f the h a n d - s t i t c h e d corsets illustrated in this b o o k h a d metal or o t h e r rings strengthening the eyelet hole.
Inserting a gusset
As w i t h the G i r l ' s W h i t e Jean C o r s e t project (see page 108), the gusset is usually inserted in the surface fabric and the l i n i n g fabric before they are s a n d w i c h e d together. In s o m e cases the gusset is l i n e d before b e i n g inserted, as in the 1 8 3 0 - 4 0 R u r a l C o r d e d C o r s e t (see page 34), w h e r e it was inserted in the o u t e r fabric, then the l i n i n g of the b o d y of the corset was t u r n e d i n and h a n d stitched d o w n . W h e n the first m e t h o d of i n s e r t i n g a gusset is executed, the fabric is cut and the edges t u r n e d u n d e r (stage l ) . T h e n the edges are laid over the gusset a n d b a c k s t i t c h e d i n t o place (stage 2). S o m e t i m e s further n e a t e n i n g or flossing takes place at the p o i n t of weakness, as in the G i r l ' s W h i t e Jean C o r s e t (see page 108).
118 Techniques
Binding
T h e b i n d i n g for most corsets is e x e c u t e d w i t h straight tape, usually a t w i l l - w e a v e tape. A neat finish is achieved if the tape is l a i d on the inside o f the g a r m e n t and h a n d stitched d o w n , then p u l l e d over to the front of the corset and neatly h a n d stitched there. H a l f o f the b i n d i n g appears on the inside, and h a l f o n the outside o f the corset. Bias b i n d i n g is not used i n the c o n s t r u c t i o n o f any o f the corsets in this b o o k as it has no strength and wears easily.
Taping seams
A n a r r o w 1/4 in ( 6 m m ) strongly w o v e n tape is often laid over the gulley o f seams i n the h e a v i l y w h a l e b o n e d earlier corsets, p r o b a b l y to i m p r o v e the w a y they l o o k e d a n d to stop the gutters of the seams s h o w i n g t h r o u g h the top g a r m e n t .
Techniques 119
Flossing
Flossing is a decorative stitch finish, usually in a b r i g h t or contrast e m b r o i d e r y thread, w h i c h is used to secure the e n d of the b o n e , s t o p p i n g the b o n e s l i p p i n g about i n the b o n i n g c h a n n e l .
T h e needle is inserted at o n e side of the b o n e , then again at the top of the bone, in and out, crossing the thread (figure 1).
T h e n the needle is inserted again, this t i m e opposite the o r i g i n a l p o i n t , passing the needle u n d e r the b o n e and a p p e a r i n g again u n d e r the v e r y first stitch (figure 2).
R e p e a t these actions three or four times (figure 3 a n d 4), then finish the threads on the inside of the garment.
T w o other flossing finishes (figure 5) are also f o u n d on the B l a c k - a n d Y e l l o w Flossed C o r s e t (see page 70) and the B l a c k C o r s e t w i t h B l u e Flossing (see page 74). P r e s u m a b l y the i n c l u s i o n o f ' h a n d finishing' on these corsets meant that they w o u l d have been m o r e expensive.
120 Techniques
Cording
K n o w n also a s s t r i n g c o r d i n g o r ' c a n d l e w i c k i n g ' , the process o f c o r d i n g is very similar to Italian q u i l t i n g . A g o o d e x a m p l e of c o r d i n g can be seen i n C o r d e d Taffeta C o r s e t (see page 38). O n the earlier corsets n a r r o w channels were created by b a c k s t i t c h i n g or saddle s t i t c h i n g parallel lines, then string or similar was p u l l e d t h r o u g h w i t h a l o n g , strong needle. Later, factories such as S y m i n g t o n ' s h a d their o w n machines, w h i c h created lengths of c o r d e d fabrics that were t h e n cut up for panels in the corsets. M a c h i n e - m a d e c o r d i n g is fine a n d often a layer of Hessian w o u l d have been added in to strengthen it. T h i s created a pliable yet supportive fabric. It may be s u r p r i s i n g to f i n d that so m u c h c o r d i n g is present in corsets, but it was cheap to p r o d u c e a n d possibly m o r e comfortable than steel or w h a l e b o n i n g .
Techniques 121
2.
3.
4.
5.
S l i p the l o o p e d side of the busk i n t o p o s i t i o n . T h i s t i m e the seam allowances lie either side o f it. F o l d the l i n i n g b e h i n d the m a i n fabric, m a t c h i n g the edges, and p i n the layers together. U s i n g a z i p (zipper) foot, m a c h i n e close to the edge of the busk, k e e p i n g the fabric taut (figure 5). C h e c k that the busk closes p r o p e r l y and the t w o fronts are a l i g n e d before c o n t i n u i n g w i t h the c o n s t r u c t i o n o f the corset (figure 6).
6.
Metal eyelets
H o l e s to ' p u n c h ' the eyelets t h r o u g h are best created by u s i n g a stiletto or a w l , a t o o l that prises the threads apart to create the h o l e rather than w e a k e n i n g the fabric by b r e a k i n g the threads as an eyelet p u n c h w o u l d do. If an eyelet p u n c h is used, make sure the h o l e ' p u n c h e d ' is a b i t smaller than the d i a m e t e r of the i n t e n d e d metal eyelet M e t a l eyelets or F r e n c h holes have b e e n available since c. 1830. T h e ones I prefer to use are the ' h a m m e r i n ' ones (see List of Suppliers page 127), b e i n g easy to insert, c o m f o r t a b l e to wear and strong. S m a l l , backless eyelets are n o t as effective, as they can easily p u l l out w h e n l a c i n g . E y e l e t i n g machines are available. Eyelets are usually situated b e t w e e n t w o bones and are usually evenly m a t c h e d , except w h e n o n e o f the top o r b o t t o m eyelets i s displaced, i n t h e o r y t o stop the corset l a c i n g unevenly. T h e b o n i n g and eyeleting o f the centre-back panel is easier to achieve before the corset is made up, but eyeleting can be left u n t i l the corset has b e e n c o n s t r u c t e d .
Further Reading
A r n o l d , Janet (1985) Patterns of Fashion:The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c. 1560-1620, D r a m a B o o k s ( U K ) and Q u i t e Specific M e d i a (US) A r n o l d , Janet (1977) Patterns of Fashion 1, Englishwomen's dresses and their construction c.1660-1860, M a c m i l l a n ( U K ) and Q u i t e Specific M e d i a ( U S ) A r n o l d , Janet (1977) Patterns of Fashion 2, Englishwomen's dresses and their construction c . 1860-1940, M a c m i l l a n ( U K ) a n d Q u i t e Specific M e d i a ( U S ) B a u m g a r t e n , L i n d a (2002) What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America,Yale U n i v e r s i t y Press, U S A B r a d f i e l d , N a n c y (1968) Costume in Detail, H a r r a p ( U K ) and C o s t u m e and F a s h i o n Press, a n i m p r i n t o f Q u i t e Specific M e d i a G r o u p L t d . ( U S ) B u c k , A n n e (1984) Victorian Costume and Costume Accessories, R u t h B e a n B l u m , Stella (1974) Harpers Bazaar, D o v e r P u b l i c a t i o n s Inc. C a r t e r , A l i s o n (1992) Underwear, the Fashion History, Batsford Coates, A l w y n R. (2001) Voller Corset Photographed,Yellowhead
C u n n i n g t o n , C . W . & C u n n i n g t o n P. (1951) The History of Underclothes, M i c h a e l Joseph D o y l e , R o b e r t (1997) Waisted Effort, S a r t o r i a l Press P u b l i c a t i o n s , U S A G i b b s - S m i t h , C h a r l e s H. (1960) The Fashionable Lady in the 19th Century, H e r Majesty's Stationery O f f i c e G u e n t h e r , Irene (2004) Nazi Chic?, B e r g H a r t , A v r i l and N o r t h , Susan (1998) Historical Fashion in Detail in the 11th and 18th Centuries,V&A P u b l i c a t i o n s J o h n s t o n , L u c y (2005) Nineteenth-century Fashion in Detail,V&A Publications Lady, A. (1986) Workwoman's Guide, O p u s P u b l i c a t i o n s M a y , T r e v o r (1991) An Economic and Social History of Britain Longman M i k h a i l a , N i n y a , a n d M a l c o l m - D a v i e s , Jane, (2006) The Tudor Tailor, Batsford ( U K ) and C o s t u m e and F a s h i o n Press, a n i m p r i n t o f Q u i t e Specific M e d i a ( U S ) Page, C h r i s t o p h e r (1981) Foundations of Fashion, Leicestershire M u s e u m s Shep, R . L . (1993) Corsets: A Visual History, R . L . Shep, U S A 1760-1910,
Steele, V a l e r i e (2001) The Corset A Cultural History,Yale U n i v e r s i t y Press, USA S u m m e r s , L e i g h (2001) Bound to Please, B e r g Taylor, L o u and W i l s o n , E l i z a b e t h (1989) Through the Looking Glass: A history of dress from 1860 to the present day, B B C B o o k s Tozer, Jane and L e v i t t , Sarah (1983) Fabric of Society: A century of people and their clothes 1770-1870, L a u r a A s h l e y L t d T o b i n , S h e l l e y (2000) Inside Out: A brief history of underwear,The N a t i o n a l Trust T h e K y o t o C o s t u m e Institute (1999) Visions of the Body: Fashion or Invisible Corset, N i s s h a P r i n t i n g C o . L t d T h e K y o t o C o s t u m e Institute (2002) Fashion: A history from the 18th to the 20th century,Taschen T h e K y o t o C o s t u m e Institute (1989) Revolution in Fashion, European Clothing 1715-1815, A b b e v i l l e Press, N e w Y o r k W a r r e n , P h i l i p (2001) Foundations of Fashion, the Symington Corsetry Collection 1860-1990, Polar P r i n t W a u g h , N o r a h (1987) Corsets and Crinolines, Batsford
Articles
A r n o l d , Janet, A wedding dress worn by the Danish Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766 ( C o s t u m e 1) A r n o l d , Janet, The 'pair of straight bodies' ( C o s t u m e 41) C a m p b e l l , M y r t l e , Embroidered bodices: an East India Company connection? ( C o s t u m e 36) Mactaggart, P and R. A . , Half a century of corset making: Mrs Turner's recollections ( C o s t u m e 1 1 , 1 9 7 9 ) Mactaggart, P and R. A . , Ease, Convenience and stays, 1750-1850 ( C o s t u m e 13, 1981) S u m m e r s , L e i g h , Yes, they did wear them: working-class women and corsetry in the nineteenth century ( C o s t u m e 36) Waterhouse, H . , A fashionable conftnement: whaleboned stays and the pregnant woman ( C o s t u m e 41)