Ok here is the COMPLETE JOURNAL for beginners/intermediate methamphetamine dreamers. This is ALL that you will need.

Here is how it works the First section is written by Wicked_Rain. He discusses how to acquire and clean your precursors. This includes Psuedoephedrine, Red Phosphors, and Iodine Crystals. After his Section is THE NEWLY RE_WRITTEN Acidmelt SLACKER Synth. It was just recently fixed up to be even more easy to understand and follow. I hope you enjoy it. SWIA tweaked it out just right for you, and there should be no problems following it. Lastly I included Jams A/B write up. Now in the acidmelt slacker synth there is its own A/B that acidmelt wrote. But if you wish you can substitute the a/b in acidmelts synth for Jams A/b writeup. Use whatever one is easiest for you to understand. Bee SAFE and have fun in your dreams. Remember that none of this is for real life, none of us have ever done this. Its illegal and dangerous. With that being said . READ ON!!! ~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ First let me introduce you to SWIM. SWIM is: Someone Who Isn`t Me. PART 1A: Acquiring Red Phosphorous Below is SWIM`s own writeup, the long version. totally complete for the new chef and in laymans terms. safety tips included, simple do`s and don't`s that may save the learning chef from harms way. hate to have anyone wind up looking like a match thats already been struck. to the old masters of the game the write up may seem a bit long winded and silly at times but this write up is NOT for you as SWIM is sure you have mastered the RP from MB technique. heres what SWIM`s insane friend in the big city does. take your 1000 (1 case) matchbooks and remove the matches by opening the book and ripping out the matches. that will leave you with just the complete cover in your hand. you will get fast and efficient at this with practice. be CAREFUL during this stage, you don't want several hundred ripped out matches catching fire. don't have more than one book in your hand at a time. SWIM`s friend grabs ONE book flips it open holds it in left hand rips matches out with his right hand, throws em in container next to him. the container SWIM uses is a heavy gauge plastic with a tight fitting lid so if you do have a fire in the container the lid can be slammed on thereby smothering the fire. he has seen people rip out matches drop em in there lap etc. and have 4 or 5 empty covers in left hand (which still contains the striker remember) and then next thing you know a book being ripped out accidently catches one of the strikers in left hand and WOOSH. if they are stacked in your lap you can imagine how bad it can be. so one at a time only and don't stack em in your lap. DO NOT open more than one box of 50 at a time for the same reasons. when you are done you will have 1000 strike covers stacked on there sides (minus the matches) in the little cardboard boxes the match books originally came in. 1000 usually fits in 2 of the boxes. next take your good sharp med. size scissors. (fiskars seem to be best in quality) now take ONE at a time and cut the short side off. SWIM`s friend grabs one cover in left hand holding in a way that theres 2 inches or so of cover then the strike pad then a short inch or so of cover (the end where the staple was holding in matches) towards his right hand. cut off the short end right exactly on the line you don't want none of the paint/ink from the cover design with your strike pad. next cut it above the strike pad again exactly on the line. when you cut the strike pad off let it fall into a container by itself (SWIM`s friend uses one of the cardboard boxes that originally held 50 books) sure when you cut them you can cut 3 or 4 at a time but SWIM will take the time to explain why you shouldn't. if you cut more than one at a time the others will move slightly underneath the top one and you will end up with part of the RP cut off on the bottom and part of the paint/ink left on the top of the pads the more you try and cut at once the more pronounced this effect will become towards the last one in the stack. try a few and you will see, or better yet do it as SWIM is telling you since he took the time to type all this shit out in about as layman terms as he can lay it. like he said above, with practice you will become very fast at this. SWIM`s friend and SWIM can do 10 cases (10,000) books in about 4 hours 15 min.. now at this point you should have 1000 strike

pads in front of you. SWIM`s friend in the big city now takes them and dumps them in a colander (one of those things you drain spaghetti in) bounce them around in there letting all the little pieces of paper cuttings and the little cardboard pellet looking things from where the staple went thru to hold the matches in originally. you will see when they quit falling out of colander. now its time for the removal of the RP from the strike pads: PART 1B: if you are only doing a 1000 books take a quart jar the kind that the mouth is the same diameter as the jar. (skippys peanut butter jars work great)...(the necked down mouths work but its a little harder to get your strike pads out when they are done being soaked) put the pads in the jar, fill with hot water to about 3 inches above the pads. put the lid on, shake the hell out of them. immedieatly pour off the hot water, dont let them soak in the hot water more than 2 minutes or to much paper pulp is introduced. pour off the hot water and discard. now pour acetone or denatuered alcohol on them and shake the hell out of them. let them sit 20 minutes or so and shake them again. all the RP should now be off the pads and you can remove the strike pads. SWIM`s friend uses stainless steel serving tongs to grab a small heap of pads swish them gently around in tone (making sure no clumps of RP are stuck in them) then remove them. repeat this untill all the strike pads you can see are removed. add a little bit more fresh tone and shake the shit up good let it set for a short. now you should have before you a one quart jar with a 1/4 inch or so of reddish/brownish goop/powder on the bottom and 2 to 4 inches of medium to dark maroon tone. you will notice that no matter how long it sets the tone will not lighten up and still look as if it has some RP suspended in it. if it does its miniscule and not worth fuckin with. siphon the tone off into waste can. after that take the RP and put it in a jar and pour in muriatic acid to a couple inches above the RP. bring it to a boil (outside of course) for 5 min or so and then rinse it with DH2O untill you've ran at least a quart thru it. you shouldn't be able to smell ANY muriatic only the unmistakable smell of RP. dry it TOTALLY and its ready to rock. another way that works is take the RP and put it in a 250 to 500 ml boiling flask. (or whatever is large enough to hold the amount you have and hold up to the LOW heat) for every 10 grams of RP put in 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon of RD lye. add DH2O untill the RP is covered by a 2 or 3 inchs. put it on the hotplate (outside of course) and cook it for 2 hours on LOW LOW heat DO NOT let it boil and DO NOT let the water cook out as the lye will want to erupt if it gets to hot or runs low on water. the lye will cook out of the mix and the caustic nature of it will burn everything out of the RP that isnt RP. keep a close eye on the shit and add more DH2O as needed to keep the RP covered. DO NOT leave it unattended as it will try to climb out of the flask and the flask will need to be removed from the heat and swirled for a few seconds untill it subsides then returned to heat. wash it WELL with DH2O afterwards. run the RP thru a fine sieve strainer to powder it SWIM always does this when it has a miniscule amount of moisture left in it as waiting till its totally bone dry makes the little chunks fly everywhere when you try and run them thru the sieve. after its ran thru the fine sieve dry it the last little bit to bone dry, weigh it and store it in an airtight container. write the weight of the RP on the container you store it in then you dont have to remember. SWIM`s friend usually yeilds 7 to 10 grams (per 1000 books) of super clean RP this way. as its drying you should grab the bowl every once in awhile and gently mash up the large lumps as they are easier to mash up when its damp than when its bone dry. when hes done its all usually the size of pinheads and smaller and ready for the fine sieve mentioned above. this may seem like a long difficult way to do it but trust me its not. the more you do it the faster you will get. typing all this seems more of a pain in the ass to SWIM than doin the matches... if you are gonna do more than a 1000 books do it in more jars or get a gallon jar, no big deal. there ya go. simple as it gets. as you do it more and more you will naturally devolop your own little twists and methods and polish and refine your technique. well, some people will but most WILL fail miserably at it and fail at the other steps as well. if everyone could do it then it would be everywhere and wouldnt be worth 2 bucks a gram. if you find yourself to be one of those guys that just cant get it right don`t despair. find a true friend that you trust and teach them the methods you find here and at rhodium and the hive and sponsor them if they have what it takes.

SWIM was lucky and took to it like a duck to water. ALWAYS work safe and THINK as you work. it dont take much of a temporary lapse of your power station to bring on disaster and possibly cost you your life and/or liberty. ACETONE IS A VERY DANGEROUS/FLAMMABLE CHEMICAL AND WILL FLASH TO FIRE WITH LITTLE PROVACATION AND NO WARNING. DO NOT HEAT IT IN THE MICROWAVE. DO NOT SMOKE AROUND IT. EXTINGUISH ALL PILOT LIGHTS ON GAS APPLIANCES (stove top, oven & hot water heater) BE AWARE OF THE FURNACE/HEATING SYSTEM, MOST FORCED AIR UNITS HAVE NO PILOT BUT DO HAVE AN ELECTRONIC IGNITION. TURN IT OFF. YOU MAY HAVE BASBOARD HEAT AND THINK ITS ALL GOOD HOWEVER SOMEWHERE THERES A BOILER THAT HEATS THE LIQUID BEING PUSHED THRU THE BASEBOARD. ITS USUALLY IN THE BASEMENT OR LOWEST PART OF THE HOUSE, THE SAME PLACE THAT THE ACETONE/SOLVENT FUMES WILL MIGRATE TO. IF YOUR NOT SURE WHAT TYPE OF HEAT YOU HAVE OR WHERE THESE APPLIANCES ARE LOCATED MAYBE YOU SHOULD NOT BE ATTEMPTING THIS. MAKE SURE THERE IS ADEQUATE VENTILATION AND REMEMBER, THE FUMES WILL HUG THE FLOOR AND CAN IGNITE FROM SCOURCES FAR FROM YOUR WORK AREA. READ THE WARNINGS ON THE CAN AND FOLLOW THEM. THEY MAY SAVE YOUR LIFE, YOUR HOME, YOUR FAMILY, THEY DONT PRINT THE SHIT ON THE CAN CUZ IT LOOKS COOL. THIS SHIT IS NOT CHILDS PLAY. FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY HEED SWIM`s WORDS *********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** ********** PART 2A: Extracting Psuedoephedrine from cold/sinus pills Chems Needed: TCE= available at your local auto parts store as BRAKLEEN or ELECTRAMOTIVE made by the CRC company. ingrediants are: Tetrachloroethylene CAS# 127-18-4 & carbon dioxide CAS# 124-38-9 the tetra is the chemical the carbon dioxide is the propellent. if you are looking at the right can (red & black with a black cap) then these will be the ingrediants. NO SUBSTITUTIONS Japan Dryer is used when applying varnish or shellac in humid weather. it is added to the varnish or shellac to speed up the drying process. available at hardware stores in the paint section. ingrediants are: Napathenic Salts, Petroleum Distillates.NO SUBSTITUTIONS the mix desired is 10 to 1 100 ml TCE 10 ml JD per 100 count of 60 mg pills. spray into a clean empty jar the needed amount of TCE. pour in the premeasured amount of JD. shake well and then pour it on the pill mass in the other jar. let it soak with stirring for 3 minutes NO MORE THAN 3 MINUTES. got it? good. here is the step by step SWIM did in his test run complete with list of active ingrediants and inactives. ACTIVE INGREDIANTS: Psudoephedrine HCL .60 mg tripolidine 2.5 mg INACTIVE INGREDIANTS: methylcellulose lactose magnesium stearate polyethylene glycol silica gel starch

stearic acid titanium dioxide 1...ground up 96 (4 boxes of 24 ct) pills with mortar and pestle to a fine powder. 2...passed thru a fine sieve used in canning jellies (its all plastic and works great) 3...measured out 100 ml TCE and 10 ml japan drier. mixed together well and poured onto pill powder in 1 pint jar. stirred well and let set THREE minutes. 4...poured entire jar contents thru a funnel with a single filter and no plug. pill mass was an ugly sorta pale blue/grey. sprayed sides of filter down with TCE from the spray can with tube attached. when all pill mass was in bottom of filter it was removed twisted and rung out. 5...opened filter and spread pill mass out on glass plate. as it dried the small clumps were chopped smaller with razor blade. it was left to set untill it was totally bone dry. 6...the dried pill mass was passed thru the fine sieve again. (a side note of caution here, to avoid the wrath of the wife buy your own fine sieve strainer from canning section of store. dont use hers as it will smell of japan drier untill the end of the time) 7...placed pill mass in clean pint jar. poured in 250 ml of denatured alcohol. stirred let set untill clear. decanted, evapped, repeated two more times. 8...took the bone dry scrapings from 3 evaps (they were ugly blue/grey (but SWIM had faith and was not worried) ran them through the fine sieve strainer again, poured 100 ml of COLD DRY acetone on the crystals and stirred and stirred and voila white crystals crashing out of tone and the tone was now the ugly blue/grey color. decanted tone, spread crystals out on plate to finish drying and they were beautiful snow white crystals. SWIM had to put on his sunglasses they were so white. they were again passed thru the fine sieve strainer, weighed and stored in an airtight, light proof container. ready to join the other two reagents in the flask when the time comes. IMPORTANT NOTES: 1. this extraction method was formulated for white 60`s. reports have come in that say it works across the board on a multitude of pills including redhots (deredded 1st of course) and 120`s. these reports are from very reliable scources however SWIM has only done it personally on white 60`s which it was designed around and for. if you dont know what white 60`s , redhots and 120`s are then you are no where near ready to do this and need to research further in labtips. do your research 1st by reading thru all the past pages in labtips. read ALL the threads. the information there is invaluable. then when you have questions about your research post your questions in a thread. the folks there will gladly help. however be warned that questions asked without research 1st such as: "hey man i need a quick easy recipie to make meth" or: "ive searched and searched and cant find -fill in the blank-". posts such as these will be promptly ignored or will result in you being flamed to a crisp, most likely the latter. and believe SWIM the folks there will know if you have done your homework and are in need of help or if you are simply trying to go the easy lazyass way. they are not easily fooled as they have been doing this for a long time. some of them longer than some of you have been alive. 2. it is very important that at the beginning and between each step where noted the pill mass be passed thru the fine sieve strainer. chopping with a razor blade or crushing with mortar and pestle simply wont get it. the mass needs to be powdered as fine as possible to insure that the entire surface area comes into contact with the chemical in each step. any small chunks will hold gakk, crap, trash, heavy metals etc. DO NOT skip these fine sieve strainings where they are called for. a plastic sieve used for straining jellies is available in the canning section of most large stores that sell canning supplies and works the best. a small metal sieve can be used as well however metal is generally a no-no as the reaction with most chems with the metal is not a good one. if metal must be used make damn sure that what your passing thru it is bone dry 1st. UPDATE-3/31/04: SWIM has taken to combining his 3 denat pulls into one jar instead of evapping them seperatley. SWIM adds the denat lets it settle out, siphons it off. adds denat to pill mass again, settles,

siphons off, combines with 1st pull. repeats again. once 3 pulls have been collected in 1 jar SWIM then runs the 3 pulls thru fine filtration. SWIM`s fine filtration device is simply a HEET bottle with the bottom cut out and 6 or 8 cotton balls stuffed into the long heet bottle neck. SWIM packs them into the neck SUPER tight. SWIM uses a ringstand clamp clamped onto the heet bottle neck to hold it securley above the mason jar. if you just let it dangle in the jars mouth the long neck reachs almost to the bottom of the jar, you dont want this. so devise an apperattus to hold the HEET bottle. you can use a regular funnel if need be. a regular funnel is the originol way and works great but only holds a half cup of juice. SWIM likes his HEET bottle set up cuz he can pour in almost a pint of juice at once and walk away while it does its slow drip. in most cases SWIM only has to fill the inverted HEET bottle twice and all his juice is fine filtered. with the small regular funnel SWIM found himself having to fill it 8 or 10 times to get all the juice filtered. when all the juice from the 3 pulls has passed thru the fine filtration device then SWIM evaps it. scrapes up the crystals, makes sure they are totally dry, runs the crystals thru a fine sieve to powder them and then runs them thru the acetone wash. you will notice in most cases the tone takes on a blue green hue and the crystals are snow white. after a few min of being stirred in the acetone bath they are poured thru a single coffee filter. filter is wrung out and then crystals are spread on a plate to dry again. when dry SWIM again passes them thru a fine sieve to powder them, weighs them and at this point compares weight with what he should have gotten from the pill mass. if weight is far short SWIM does a 4th pull on the pill mass. if weight is within a couple grams or less from the expected return SWIM calls it good and chucks the pill mass. many say to save all these pill mass remainders untill several are saved up and then do a pull on them combined. SWIM says fuck that dont keep that shit around. its not worth this shit being found for a few grams of E. if the juice is at all cloudy pass it thru the fine filtration again. do it as many times as it takes untill it is clear as water. failure to do so will result in E that is unclean. if after two or 3 filterings it still has a cloudy look then pack more cotton balls in your filtration apperattus and make them tighter. when proper it should be a slow dripwith 1 or 2 seconds between drips. if it runs thru in a stream no matter how small its not packed tight enough. there ya go young grasshoppers, another tidbit from the crew at upallnite productions & stucktomyshoe inc. to make your life a little bit easier. remember this info is all hypothetical and was gathered from a dream state, compacted and found stuck to the dreamers shoe upon awakening. actual use of this info could land you in jail or worse. ****************************************************************************** PART 3A: Acquiring I2 Crystals I2 Crystals are available in several places however it is a very watched product. meaning it is tracked heavily by law enforcment. ordering it off the net etc. is very risky. do so at your own risk. when your setting in a prison cell with Ben Dover grinnin at you, remember SWIM warned you. what will be covered here is extracting your own I2 crystals from tincture. NEEDED ITEMS: 1 pint 7% iodine tincture, 1 pint 3% hydrogen peroxide, 2 cups of distilled water, 1 ounce muriatic acid. in a gallon jar (half gallon minimum) pour in the 7% iodine tincture, then pour in the 2 cups DH2O, stir it well. next pour in the 1 ounce of muriatic acid, stir it well. let it set for 15 minutes stirring every few minutes. now pour in 12 ounces (3/4 of the pint) of the hydrogen peroxide slowly while stirring. seal the jar. if the lid is metal place a plastic baggie over the jar opening before you screw on the lid. if you have no lid a baggie over the opening and a rubber band twisted tight around the neck will work. put it in a cool place that it wont be disturbed for 12 hours. after 12 hours you will see your crystals in the bottom of the jar. pour the liquid into a new jar add the remaing 4 ounces of peroxide and a capfull of muriatic acid seal the top again and put it away for another 12 hours. there will be another small batch of crystals to harvestfrom this.

now take a gallon of DH2O and pour it in the jar with the crystals. pour the contents thru a funnel with a single coffee filter in it. it will drain slowly but patience is the key to success. when all the crystals are in the filter and the last of the liquid is drained pour in DH2O untill the funnell is full and let it drain. do this at least 4 times. SWIM does it 8 times. now take the wet crystals and filter out of the funnel, gentley squeeze out most of the water being careful not to tear the filter. at this point SWIM takes 10 paper towels and folds them in half, places the filter in them and folds them over the filter. he then presses the water out. when the paper towels are wet he repeats the process. when no more moisteure can be squeezed out this way he then places the filter in 1 paper towel closes it up and places it in a jar and pours damprid over the whole thing and lets it set 24 hours. when the crystals are removed from the damprid they are bone dry and ready to go into there storage container. SWIM recomends wearing gloves, chem goggles and working over wax paper. this will make cleanup a breeze. so there it all is in a nutshell. if your after a quick easy way then you are in the wrong place. there is no quick easy way. if there was everyone and his brother would be doing it. the only quick easy way is to hit the street and buy the trashy cut shit you will find there. or take the time, learn the craft, and behold the best shit you have ever done with the pride of knowing you done it yourself. the game has its rules follow them and be rewarded. dont follow them and go to prison or the morgue or at the very least wind up with nothing, hell these are possibilities even if you do follow the rules. remember that. ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Acidmelts Slacker Reaction REVISED 4-25-2004 by Acidmelt ------ ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Acidmelts Slacker Reaction This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull rxn in the book. You have to know how to extract psuedoephedrine(E) and clean it, you have to know how to extract the red phosphorus(RP) off matchbooks (or where ever you get it from), and how to properly clean the red phosphorus. you must also know how to clean up your iodine(I2) to a proper grade. As far as the cleaning of the E goes I would have to recommend using Wicked Rains TCE/JD Method, as it is quite new and will work with the latest pill formulas that the D.E.A. has released. Jam has a good A/B write up as well, you can use his or the one that I have written here. After the cook and A/B you have a choice to get it into Hcl form (salt form), you can either titrate with diluted Murry (muriatic acid) or you can gas with HCL gas. If youre a beginner then I would recommend starting with titration. I will cover that later in the text. I am not going to go into how to do these procedures (cleaning E, RP, I2) as they are covered in seperate pages on Totse. With this easy to follow synth, I will start at mixing the reactants and where to go from there. Keep in mind that this is only a dream and a very simple dream at that. I have never tried this and I have never met someone that has tried it. Its just well organized thoughts in a well organized matter. I don't condone this activity or any illegal activity for that matter. Don't try this at home. What you will need:

Precursers: 1.Psuedoephedrine or Ephedrine (E) 2. Red Phosphorus (RP) 3.Iodine Crystals (I2) Equipment: 1.Flask with nipple connection 2.Stopper (that fits the flask) 3.Electric Burner 4.Candy Thermometer 5.1and 1/2ft. of plastic tubing to fit on the nipple of your flask AND a balloon (regular balloon) 6.Separatory Funnel 7.Chemical Resistant latex gloves 8.Visionware Glass Bowl or pot. 9.Regular cooking pot 10.Distilled H2O and Ice 11.RedDevil Lye 12.Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic Acid) 13.Duct Tape 14.Litmus Paper 15.Non-Polar Solvent (VM&P Naptha, Toluene...) ok here is how it goes... Put your gloves and glasses on. Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8parts RP ratio for reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of E, 12g of I2, and 8g of RP. First take the RP and the E and mix well in a plastic baggie. Take this and pour it into your flask, covering the bottom of it. Now put this flask in an ice bath. This consists of filling the bottom of a bowl or sink with ice and cold water. Set your flask in this. Now you are going to add a little DH20. Add about 2ml to 2.5ml if you are doing over 10 grams and under 1oz of E. If you are using less than 10g or E then you want to add about 1ml to 1.75ml of DH20. Next pour in your I2 and close with a solid rubber stopper. Duct tape this on so it dont pop off during the reaction. you should all ready have your foot and a half of plastic tubing secured onto the nipple of the flask and securely taped there, and at the end of this tubing you will be taping (duct tape) on a balloon. Make sure that all of this is taped AIR TIGHT. After you get the 3 goodies mixed in the bottom of the flask you will want to hold the end of the tubing closed with your thumb.(gloves on!)(safety glasses too) Sit back and watch it start to react slowly. Sometimes it will react right away and sometimes not. Just watch and see. It will react really slowly (thats what you want) because it is in the ice bath. After about 10 minutes in the ice bath take it out and let it sit on the counter for about 20 minutes to get back up to room temperature. It will start turning to a muddy texture, and then to a liquid (might not turn liquid till its on the heat). You may notice that your balloon is a little bigger. This is from gasses produced by the reaction (Hi gas). All right, everything going good so far? Not too hard huh? Now you will want to cook the reaction to get it going again. Before you start all of this put your regular cooking pot on your electric burner and find out where the dial is at 150F. So turn on your burner and set it at 150F. Put your cooking pot with vegetable oil in the bottom (just about 2 inches off the bottom) on the burner, and put your flask in that. After a few minutes this bitch will really get cookin. It will start bubbling and the mixture will expand. All in all it is going to start to get a little crazy. Every few minutes pick up the flask and swirl it up a little. You will notice that the balloon is getting big. That is fine. Let it do its thing. If the balloon is too smelly for you (you may smell a slight amount of Hi gas) then lay a wet towel over the top of the balloon.

Just keep this going for while. You will want to slowly turn up the heat to about 190F over a 1 hour period. The push part of the reaction will keep going for about 1.5 hours to 2 hours. It usually lasted for about 1.5 hours in my dreams. You will know when to stop cooking when the push stops and the bubbling slows. When this has occured take the flask out of the pot and just set it on the counter. To save any extra stress on the flask set it on top of a towel. (the counter may be too cold for the flask if its not pyrex). While it is cooling to room temp you want to keep swirling the flask. You will notice that the gas that was in the balloon is getting sucked back into the flask and the balloon is deflating. This is good. It will probaly take about 20 minutes (if that) for the flask to cool down. You want it to be cool enough to hold in your hand with out burning yourself. Remember to keep stirring and shaking the flask during the cooling. When the flask has cooled down to a suitable state, (room temp) then untape the rubber stopper and add 100ml of DH20 to the chili oil in the bottom of the flask. Shake up the chilli/H20 in the flask, and pour directly into the clean visionware bowl. now pour a little more distilled water into empty flask (just a little) and shake up real good. this is just to get out the rest of what ever is left in the flask. put the bowl on the burner and turn on high. bring to a boil while stirring with a clean plastic spoon. This will get the some chilli that is stuck on the RP off of it. Turn off the burner and let sit and cool to room temp. While this is cooling off a little, grab your funnel and put in 3 coffee filters and stuff a cotton ball in the tip of the funnel. put this over a clean glass jar. now pour everything that is in the visionware bowl into the funnel. it will take a while to filter because of the RP. once all the meth water is filtered through, into the glass jar, pour it back through the same filters (with the RP in it) again. you will want to do this at least 4 times. just keep pouring it through the same filter/cottonballs. now it should have a yellowish collor, but not foggy at all. it should be very clear. be sure to save all your RP so you can wash it and reuse it later. THE A/B: Prepare your lye solution ahead of time. You will need it soon. Do this by adding around 8-10 spoonfulls of lye to 100ml of DH20. Stir it up till its all dissolved. It will be hot. You want to let it cool to room temp before it using. It will clear up as it cools down too. Pour this into your separatory funnel (the yellowish clear water/meth), and add just a little ice. Now you are going to add your NP (non-polar) solvent. I would dream about using VM&P Naptha or toluene. For the matter of this write up I am going to say use toluene. Add a little less than the amount of water/meth you have in there (add like 75ml). When you look at the sep funnel now you will see that there are 2 layers in it. The top layer is the NP layer (toluene), and the bottom layer is the polar layer (water). Now slowly add a little lye solution to the sep. funnel, and shake well. drop a small drip onto your litmus paper to test the Ph. (you will be testing the water/meth layer, NOT the toluene layer) you want the Ph to be 13 or 14. if it is not a Ph of 13/14 then add a little more lye and shake the hell out of it and test again. keep doing this till it test out at 13/14. What is happening here is you are making the meth into a freebase and pushing into the NP layer. So you want to be sure to shake it up real well to get it all in the NP. After it tests at 13/14 drop in a tablespoon of table salt, and shake well. Now we are going to seperate the layers in the funnel. We want to keep the NP Solvent (Toluene / top layer), not the water/lye layer (bottom). Now you are going to make your Murry solution for the next step. To do this Add 15ml

of Muriatic acid to 85ml of DH20. Stir it up a bit and set it aside. This is now diluted Hcl solution. Put the water layer in a jar and set aside. You can do another A/B on it later. Keep the Toluene/meth in the seperatory funnel. Heat a big glass of new distilled H2O till it is hot. pour in one third the amount of water (compared to the Toluene) and shake well. drain the water out. repeat this 4 times. you are washing the NP Solvent. TITRATING THE METH: From this point on you can either titrate the meth or gas it out. I am going to cover titrating because I feel that this is something that a beginner should learn before gassing. You only have to do one or the other. Now add 30-40ml of DH20 to the sep. funnel and drop in a ml of Hcl solution. (Muriatic Acid solution from the paragraph above) Shake for a few minutes. Then test the ph of the water layer (bottom layer). You want it to test at 7.2 or at least close to that. If it doesnt, add another ml of Hcl solution and shake the hell out of it again and test again. Continue doing this till you get to the PH of 7 / 7.2 After it is the proper ph, drain the water layer into your CLEAN visionware bowl and put it on the hotplate and and heat till it starts to steam. Immediately take off the hotplate and put a fan on the bowl. Now you can let it finish by having the fan blowing on it OR you can finish with a hairdryer if you want. now go back to your toluene in the seperatory funnel and add a little more distilled water. we are going to do a second pull on the non-polar solvent. add another ml of Hcl solutioni and shake it up again. test the ph again. looking for 7.2 again. once you reach 7.2 again drain your meth/water into another clean visionware bowl. now evaporate again. remember that if your not in a hurry, evaporating it with a hair dryer will increase yeilds. Some chefs even do a third pull. Thats it. you now have clean and pure crystal meth. Have Fun, and be safe. Authors Note: This type of synth is called a Hot Dry cook. It produces a more euphoric product but it doesnt last as long as Long Wet Dope. Long Wet cooks produce a product that has no Fireworks or euphoria, but it lasts longer. If you are looking for something that lasts for a real long time but is boring then you want to do a long wet cook. !!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU CAN DO THIS IN PLACE OF THE POST REACTION WORKUP IN THE SLACKER SYNTH ABOVE. DO WHATEVER ONE YOU FIND EASIER, BUT DONT FORGET TO TITRATE AFTERWARDS. THIS ONE PICKS UP IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE COOK IS DONE. A/B Step-by-Step So Your Rp/I Reaction is over? What does one do with this nasty stuff now? How is it turned into White Powder? A simple, basic, no-frills, post-reaction work-up, for early dreaming. So Your Rp/I Reaction is over? What does one do with this nasty stuff now? How is it turned into White Powder? A simple, basic, no-frills, post-reaction work-up, for early dreaming. This method or some variation of is used (theoretically) by most Dreamers. It is basic, well-known, well documented and often ignored, until the last minute, by those who need it. It has been written here, in fair detail, to benefit

those who, have never been exposed to such things before. There are better procedures available, which provide a cleaner and more intense end result. This Procedure however, should become well familiar to the Novice, initially. This account should be an adequate and descriptive step-by-step guide, hopefully answering many questions. Step 1. Boil the Post Reaction Solution At this point, the dreamer should see before him/her a container, that has some red/yellowish/brownish/dark, material inside, the result of an RP/I reaction, in all likelihood. . First, the dreamer must decide whether or not this container, in which the reacted materials are held, is able to withstand direct heat from a stove or similar burner, without breaking. If it is a pyrex or similar piece of kitchenware, it is not stove top safe. If it is Lab ware or Visio nware it is stove top safe. If it is anything else other than something specifically designed for stove top use, it will likely break. All could be lost. Heat up some distilled water (dH2O), until it is nice and hot, like a very hot cup of coffee. Pour some onto the reaction solution; just enough to raise the volume of material, approximately 5 times that of the reaction material alone. A minimum of 75ml is a good guideline for first timers. As one is more acquainted with the procedure, less or more may be used, as preferred. Swirl it around inside the reaction vessel, to loosen any material clinging to the inside. If the vessel is stove top safe, place it on heat and boil it for 5-10 minutes. If the reaction vessel is not, transfer the solution to one that is. The post reaction solution should appear as a clear fluid, it may appear a little "milky or clouded", with the Red Phosphorus (Rp) swirling around inside. It will have a characteristic odor of "boiled onion" or "cat pee". If it is any darker, it should be boiled for the full ten minutes, sometimes the Rp gives the illusion the solution is dark. Let it settle and double check the color. If it is yellow, boil it for up to 10 minutes or so, it will likely clear. This color is usually excess Iodine.

If the solution remains dark with Iodine,and strong Iodine Odor or Vapor are noticed, in all likelihood the reaction was incomplete. Although when refluxing in particular, it could be clear and still not complete, so keep this mind. If it is very dark, it should be placed on very low heat, allowed to evaporate to it's original volume. At that time new Iodine, at least 75% of the original amount, H2O, to discretion, and Rp, about 15-25% of the original weight, should be added, and the reaction restarted. If the reaction solution is no darker than "honey" after boiling, proceed. Though a clear or possibly a clouded whitish solution is to be strived for on subsequent reactions. Step 2 Make a NaOH Solution In a separate container, which should be oven safe glass, a beaker, or a thick glass/ceramic mug. Pour in 100ml dH2O, slowly add lye (NaOH), with stirring until no more will dissolve, at which time the solution is saturated. A saturated solution contains as much of a given material(s) that it can possible dissolve. The amount of material they can dissolve, increases as they are heated, and decreases as they are cooled. It may take a few minutes so keep stirring. Do not inhale the fumes, they may sting the eyes, the solution will become quite hot. As the liquid stands it will cool off and become clear, allow it to cool to room temperature, it may be chilled if desired. Do not touch, drink, or store this liquid where it could unknowingly be a hazard. It is highly caustic and will burn living human tissues, with only brief exposure. It will be used later. Set it aside to cool. Step 3 Filter Out the Rp The post reaction solution, will now carefully be filtered to remove all the Rp. A coffee or similar filter is adequate, vacuum filtration is optimal. Remember that the Rp may be saved, dried and re-used. It is best to filter the solution directly into the separatory funnel (or sep funnel), to keep the amount of containers to a minimum, and reduce loss. Make certain the filter has been pre-saturated with dH2O, so it will not soak up product. Make sure to rinse the Reaction Vessel, with dH20 and filter that as well. This will help get any product or Rp sticking to the sides, so it will not be lost. Now go thoroughly clean the Reaction Vessel, and

thoroughly rinse it with dH2O, if it is of sufficient size it will be used in the next step, if not use another suitable container. A separatory funnel, is a laboratory tool, consisting of a container with a opening at the top, which can be sealed, and an outlet at the bottom, which can be opened and closed with a small valve . It resembles an enclosed funnel, and in fact, is. It is, indeed, the best tool to be used in this process. 500ml, is the optimum size, for Dreaming hobbyists. If one intends to be a Dreamer, it is an indispensable tool, and no substitute, is as good. A sep funnel and a reaction flask, are the most important lab ware, a Dreamer could acquire. Suitable substitutes, can be fashioned for this purpose easily, and plans are everywhere. Even a Jar, could substitute, with a Turkey Baister, to remove fluids, but it makes the process less efficient and more difficult. Step 4 Post Reaction NP Wash Pour Xylene, Toluene, Hexane, Naphtha, Petroleum Ether, Diethyl Ether or any suitable Non Polar Solvent (NP), into the separatory funnel, in the amount of 1/3 the volume of the Filtered Reaction Solution. Swirl and shake the sep funnel gently for a few minutes (not seconds), and allow it to settle for a few minutes. Two layers will be formed, one layer or phase, at the top contains the NP, its called the organic layer. The bottom layer is the dH2O, or the aqueous layer. It should be noted that some less common NP solvents, such as DCM (dichloromethane), settle to the bottom, however, these aren't commonly available, to New Dreamers or necessarily to be used in this application. After the solution settles for a minimum of 5 minutes, and interface between the layers is distinct, drain the aqueous layer carefully into the reaction flask. Drain the organic layer into a suitable container and set it aside. Pour the aqueous layer carefully back into the sep funnel. The sep funnel must be swirled or shaken very gently, otherwise an emulsion could form. An emulsion will cause the layers to separate slowly. Should this happen, careful swirling may help to break the emulsion. Simply allowing the emulsion to break over time is otherwise employed. The key is being careful to not proceed until the layers are well separated, leaving a very distinct interface between them. Repeat Step 4 again. More than once if desired.

Step 5 Basifying The aqueous layer, should now be in the sep funnel alone. This will begin a process, known to chemists as an "Acid Base Extraction" ( A/B), reference material should be read on the matter, so the Dreamer will understand how it works. A true understanding, will make any unforeseen problems, easier to overcome. For this step and others, New Dreamers, must obtain a ph measuring device. Ph, means Power of Hydrogen , it is a scale from 0 to 14, with 0 representing a totally acidic solution, and 14 being a totally basic solution, dH20 should be a ph7, or neutral, on the ph scale. Strips, tape, and electronic checkers are easily obtained, they should measure 0-14, and are extremely inexpensive. Other ph checking methods may be employed, the Red Cabbage Scale, is excellent as well, look around for the plans. Add some fresh NP Solvent to the sep funnel, about 1/2 the volume of the aqueous layer is best in the beginning, at this stage. If the NP is Naphtha make sure it is warmed before adding, otherwise it will not easily absorb the product. Xylene or Toluene are, far and away the best choices for New Dreamers here. Xylene smells better, and is more widely accessible, it is the Authors solvent choice, in these dreams. Retrieve the now cooled NaOH solution, made in Step 2, slowly and carefully add a small amount to the sep funnel, 1-5ml. The aqueous layer may get cloudy. Gently swirl the funnel, moving it around, gently mixing and agitating the fluids for 30 seconds. Continue adding NaOH, a little at a time, and swirling, until the ph, reaches 14 (12.5 or higher, is adequate, but 14 is best used initially). Small particles or bubbles may be observed, rising toward the top of the aqueous layer. Only the aqueous layer will have a ph reading to be checked, the organic laye r is not checked. When the ph 14 has been reached, the product in the aqueous layer has became it's free base (FB) form, and will begin to move into the organic layer. This process takes some time, it is not instantaneous. Now begin adding some plain table salt (NaCL), to the sep funnel, slowly, with swirling, 2 or 3 grams at a time, until no more will dissolve. This will take awhile, gentle swirling is best, do not hurry. This will help the H2O, to release its grasp on the product, so it may migrate to the organic layer. Once this process is complete, allow the sep funnel sit undisturbed, until the layers are well separated, or a

minimum of 30 minutes. Step 6 Water wash the NP layer: After the sep funnel has sat at least 30 minutes, carefully drain the aqueous layer, into a suitable container. Do not, throw it away at this time. It may contain product, and can be re-extracted later. Occasionally some material will precipitate in the aqueous layer, and hover just below the organic layer. It should not be drained away when the aqueous layer is removed at this time. The organic layer should be in the funnel, alone, at this point. Now, more hot dH20, amounting to 1/2 the volume of the organic layer, is added. The sep funnel should now be gently stirred and swirled, for 3 or 4 minutes, to mix the layers. This step will remove water soluble compounds, that may contaminate the product, which is not water soluble at this time. NaOH, will often be trapped in the organic layer, this will remove it. Allow the sep to sit until the layers are well separated, a minimum of 5 minutes, undisturbed. Then drain away the aqueous layer, saving it with the NaOH solution previously removed. Drain away any precipitant left over when the aqueous layer was drained as well. Most likely it fell to the bottom of the fresh dH2O. Repeat this Process 2 more times. The organic layer will likely appear rather opaque or cloudy at this time, as o pposed to crystal clear. It is not a cause for alarm. Step 7 Titriation or Titriating Now the organic layer, should be in the sep funnel alone. Now add dH20, amounting to 1/4 to 1/2 the volume of the organic layer. Carefully drip 2 or 3 drops of Hydrochloric or Muratic Acid (HCL), to the sep funnel. Shake the sep funnel vigorously. Allow it to settle until the layers are thoroughly separated (2 or 3 minutes minimum). Check the ph, if the ph is 6 or lower, shake again, and allow the funnel to sit for 10 minutes. Check the ph again if it is still ph6 or lower, proceed to the next step. If the ph is higher than 6, add 2 or 3 more drops, repeating this process until ph6 is achieved. If the ph is 7 or 8 when checked, add only 1 drop at a time. This may require time, and many ph checks, do

not rush, do not add large amounts of acid rapidly. The amount of acid required relates directly to the amount of product in the solution. If the starting material for the reaction, was 3 grams or less, add only 1 drop of acid at a time, with any addition of acid. Before continuing, in any case, when ph6 or less is obtained, shake the solution, allow it to settle for 10 minutes, then double check the ph. This process, allows the FB product, to attach itself to the HCL, and it becomes a consumable water soluble salt. It will move in to the aqueous layer again. This process should be performed carefully and slowly. If the ph should, inadvertently become below 6, do not panic, although it is undesirable. Step 8 Evaporating Now that the aqueous layer, is a stable ph6, it will be ready to evaporate. Carefully drain the aqueous layer into a suitable evaporation dish (evap dish). Should any waxy or "skin-like" substance be visible in the aqueous layer, it should be filtered as it is added. Make certain the filter has been pre-saturated with dH2O, so it will not soak up product. Filtering will remove these solid contaminants. A small funnel and filter should be used. A tea strainer fitted with, a cut to size coffee filter can be utilized if necessary. Add the organic layer to the waste container, containing the aqueous layer and water rinses from Step 6, to be saved and re-extracted, at a later date. The sep funnel should now be thoroughly cleaned, dried and put away for safe keeping. The evap dish itself, should be an oven safe dish at bare minimum. A stove top safe dish or appropriate lab ware are best. If the evap dish isn't stove top safe. It must not be allowed to touch any heat source directly, or be over heated. It could easily break. It should be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed well with dH2O before use. Using very low heat, and a small fan gently blowing over the surface of the dH2O/product solution. The H2O will be slowly evaporated and crystals should be left behind. Do not allow them to burn or be over heated. The crystalline substance should be transparent, to those well versed, the particular pattern of crystallization can be recognized.

Once they have been thoroughly dried, they may be scraped up carefully, with a razor blade or similar device. They should be gathered in a small, clean glass stove top safe jar or beaker and crushed to powder. The powder should be a brilliant, sparkling white, composed of tiny transparent crystals. It may have a yellow tint if contaminated or the ph was below 6, in the previous step. Once they have been gathered and dried. A small amount of very cold, 0C, dried acetone (tone), should be poured over them so they are covered. A dried solvent contains little or no H2O, they are dried with a drying agent like Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate (Epsom Salt), which has been dehydrated in the oven and added to the solvent. A drying agent soaks up residual H2O, and will not dissolve in the solvent. The solvent is then either filtered, or simply decanted off the drying agent, and used as needed. Sol vent drying techniques are easily performed, and many techniques are written in detail. Swirl the acetone, allow the crystals to settle a moment, and carefully decant the acetone, leaving the crystals in the jar. The acetone should be decanted, into another container, in the event some crystals are poured inadvertently. Repeat this step 2 more times. If the powder was discolored, more repeats may be required The crystals should then be allowed to dry. Once they have dried, the product is in the form of a crude HCL salt, that is ready to undergo Recrystalization. Recrystalizing them is key to obtain maximum potential of the product. Documents describing it are abundant, several methods are available. A simple dual-solvent recrystalization should be adequate, for New Dreamers. Afterward This simple procedure, is possibly the least understood, by those just starting. It very often is the main barrier between first time success and failure. No step can be skipped, this is the crudest version, which should ever be pondered. Many refinements and options, can, and have been made, to better achieve it's end. Such as, Titriation could replaced with bubbling the dried organic layer with anhydrous HCL gas, to directly precipitate crystals, or once the Reaction solution was basified, it could be distilled. Distillation is a far superior process, which should be studied once this one is well familiar. May Joy and Success follow the Dreamer into eternity. Thats it folks. Thats the end. This is a very complete and easy to understand compilation of writeups. These are not real and do not ever try them. Just dream it. Keep this bitch bumped.