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Statistical properties of wave climate of the eastern Baltic Sea

Tallinn University of Technology, Ehitajate tee 5, Tallinn, Estonia zujevs@yahoo.co.uk

Mihhail Zujev
Diurnal variability of wave height
Average wave heights show very moderate variability during the day. Evening wavefields are generally calmer and at noon waves are slightly higher. This allows to use daily average value as daily mean wave height (see Methods section).

Seasonal variability of wave heights


Plots show changes of seasonal mean height at every location. Points are shown for years with at least 75% of successful observations.
autumn winter

Data

Narva

were gathered from hydrometeorological archives kept in Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia since late 1940s and early 1950s until 2009-2011. Records were made by hand, by trained observer, who noted down wave height, direction and wave period for 3 times a day. Detailed procedure is described e.g. in [1]

Methods
summer spring winter autumn

noon

spring summer winter autumn

Before using the data, some erroneous and obviously physically unrealistic values were discarded. For every location data (wave height, wave period and approaching direction) were checked for normality and randomness. Some gaps exist due to unfavourable weather conditions (ice cover, fog, darkness). In order to equalise data for each season, daily average wave heights were calculated on basis of one, two or three available values. No correction was made for ice cover.

morning

noon

evening evening morning

spring

summer

How to use the results


autumn winter

noon

noon

morning

spring winter autumn summer

Each panel describes one particular issue which is necessary for coastal design project with details given next to title of panels. Is is possible to calculate design wave height, probability of exceedance of threshold value of wave height, to choose least probable direction for high wave during life period etc. Direction of wave propagation is a direciton where wave comes from.

morning

evening

evening

Distribution of wave heights and periods


summer spring autumn winter

Values show percentage of waves from any direction with particular height and period.
noon morning evening

noon

evening morning

winter autumn

spring summer

summer spring

Directional distribution of waves during decadal increase/decrease of wave height


Values show percentage of waves of any height from each direction during specified years. Decadal variability of directions can be estimated for different trends of annual mean wave height. Dominant directions are shown on the map with arrows. Decrease of wave height No trend Increase of wave height

Percentage of high waves


The figure shows percentage of high waves (H 1 m and T 5 s) regardless of direction of propagation. Points are shown for years with at least 75% of successful observations. It is possible to estimate frequency of occurrence of high waves and their long-term variability. Emphasised portions show simultaneous decrease and subsequent increase of high waves (A) and counter-phase changes in Southern and Northern Baltic Proper (B). Similar features of annual mean wave heights are presented in [1].

40%
Klaipeda

30%

Liepaja

20%
Nida Narva Pakri

10%
Narva Pakri

Vilsandi Ventspils

Vilsandi

0%

Ventspils Liepaja

Klaipeda

Frequency of occurrence of waves 1 m and higher from different directions


Values show percentage of high waves (H 1m) from particular direction. It is possible to define optimal orienation of coastal structure or obtain a probability of arrival of a wave from given direction.
<20% 20-30% 31-40% 41-49% 50%

Nida

Wave height percentiles


Values are in meters; next to each location find a length of time period. Choose preferable direction and a percentile which suits your project. Some directions are not shown as they describe wave propagation offshore.

24 April 2011

Beach in regular conditions (above) and after storm (below).


Pirita beach, Tallinn, Photo: M.Zujev.

7 November 2012

References:
[1] Soomere, T., Zaitseva, I., 2007. Long-term variations of wave properties in the northern Baltic Proper. In: Baltic Sea Science Congress Rostock 2007: March 19-22, 2007 at Rostock University: Abstract volume. Part 1: Lectures. Rostock: Rostock University, 2007, 93. [2] Zaitseva-Prnaste, I., Suursaar, ., Kullas, T., Lapimaa, S., Soomere, T., 2009. Seasonal and long-term variations of wave conditions in the northern Baltic Sea. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 56(1).

Acknowledgements:
I would like to thank colleagues who have digitized the data, Katri Pindsoo, Maris Eelsalu, Inga Zaitseva-Prnaste, Olga Tribtok, Loreta Kelpait, and special thanks to Tarmo Soomere for guidance and scientific advice.

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